THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Carolyn McCarthy
p110de AzueroPenínsula
p178Province
Bocas del Toro
p152ProvinceChiriquí
p134ProvinceVeraguas p92
CocléProvince
p206Province
Colónp221
Kuna YalaComarca de
p235ProvinceDarién
ProvincePanamá
p72p40
Panama City
Panama
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Panama . . . . 4
Panama Map . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Panama’s Top 15 . . . . . . . . .8
Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16
First Time Panama . . . . . .18
If You Like… . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Month by Month . . . . . . . 22
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Panama Outdoors . . . . . . 32
Regions at a Glance . . . . 36
PANAMA CITY . . . . . . 40History. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Sights. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42Activities . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Courses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Festivals.&.Events . . . . . . . . 53Sleeping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53Eating. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59Drinking.&.Nightlife. . . . . . . 63Entertainment .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 66Shopping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
PANAMÁ PROVINCE . . . . . . . . . 72Panama.Canal. . . . . . . . . . . . 73Canal.Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77Pacific Islands . . . . . . . . 80Isla.Taboga .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. ..81Archipiélago.de..Las.Perlas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83Pacific Coast . . . . . . . . . . 87La.Chorrera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Capira. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87Parque.Nacional.y..Reserva.Biológica..Altos.de.Campana. . . . . . . . 88Punta.Chame . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Pacific.Coast.Beaches. . . . . 89Northeast Panamá Province . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Área.Silvestre.de..Narganá. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91Lago.Bayano. . . . . . . . . . . . . 91
COCLÉ PROVINCE . . 92El.Valle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Santa.Clara. . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Farallón.(Playa.Blanca). . . 101Penonomé. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102La.Pintada. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105Reserva.Privada.Távida. . . 106
Parque.Nacional.Omar.Torrijos.(El.Copé).&..La.Rica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107Parque.Arqueológico..del.Caño. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
PENÍNSULA DE AZUERO . . . . . . . .110Chitré. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Interior.Azuero. . . . . . . . . . 118Villa.de.Los.Santos . . . . . . 119Playas.Monagre.&..El.Rompío . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121Guararé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122La.Enea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Las.Tablas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123Pedasí. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Azuero.Coastline . . . . . . . . 129Macaracas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
VERAGUAS PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 134Santiago. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136San.Francisco. . . . . . . . . . . 137Santa.Fé. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137Las.Palmas . . . . . . . . . . . . . 141Santa.Catalina . . . . . . . . . . 141Parque.Nacional.Coiba. . . 145Parque.Nacional..Cerro.Hoya . . . . . . . . . . . . . 151
CHIRIQUÍ PROVINCE . . . . . . . . 152Lowlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 153David . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 153Playa.Barqueta. . . . . . . . . . 158Golfo.de.Chiriquí . . . . . . . . 159Playa.Las.Lajas. . . . . . . . . . 160Highlands . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Boquete. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
PLAN YOUR TRIP
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HARPY EAGLE P244
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ON THE ROAD
Contents
Parque.Nacional..Volcán.Barú. . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Volcán. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Santa.Clara. . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Paso.Ancho. . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Bambito. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Cerro.Punta. . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Guadalupe. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Parque.Internacional..La.Amistad.(Las.Nubes). . . 177
BOCAS DEL TORO PROVINCE . . . . . . . . .178Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro . . . . . . . 179Isla.Colón. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179Bocas.del.Toro . . . . . . . . . . 183Isla.Carenero. . . . . . . . . . . . 193Isla.Solarte.&.Around . . . . 194Isla.San.Cristóbal. . . . . . . . 194Isla.Bastimentos . . . . . . . . 195Mainland . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Almirante. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199Changuinola . . . . . . . . . . . .200Humedal.de.San-San..Pond.Sak. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201Parque.Internacional..La.Amistad.(Wekso) .. .. .. .. ..201Las.Delicias. . . . . . . . . . . . .203Bosque.Protector.de..Palo.Seco. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .204
COLÓN PROVINCE 206Colón . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .208Around.Colón . . . . . . . . . . .209South.of.Colón. . . . . . . . . . 210Parque.Nacional..San.Lorenzo . . . . . . . . . . . . 210Portobelo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 213Around.Portobelo. . . . . . . . 218Isla.Grande . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
COMARCA DE KUNA YALA . . . . . . . 221The.Kuna. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Cartí,.El.Porvenir..&.Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228East.Lemons. . . . . . . . . . . .230Río.Sidra.&..Nearby.Islands. . . . . . . . . . 231Corazón.de.Jesús.&..Nearby.Islands. . . . . . . . . . 232Playón.Chico.&..Nearby.Islands. . . . . . . . . . 233Achutupu.&..Nearby.Islands. . . . . . . . . . 234Beyond.Achutupu. . . . . . . . 234
DARIÉN PROVINCE 235The Road to Yaviza . . . . 238Metetí. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .240Yaviza. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241Interior Darién . . . . . . . 242La.Palma. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Reserva.Natural..Punta.Patiño. . . . . . . . . . . . 243Mogué . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Río.Sambú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Sambú. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244Parque Nacional Darién 245El.Real . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245Rancho.Frío. . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Panama Today . . . . . . . . 248
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
The Panamanian Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 259
Music . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
Land & Wildlife . . . . . . . 272
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 282
Transportation . . . . . . . 293
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . 299
Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . .319
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURES
Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Off the Beaten Track . . . 30
Panama Outdoors . . . . . 32
Casco Viejo (p45), Panama City
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of avid birders. Climb a canopy tower to search for toucans, capuchin monkeys and sloths or paddle a kayak on Lago Gatún alongside howler monkeys and sunbathing crocodiles.
From Panama City, fly to Bocas del Toro for four days of chill Caribbean vibes. Hire a water taxi to snorkel the clear waters filled with tropical fish and color-ful coral reefs. Explore Isla Colón riding a cruiser bike out to Playa Bluff or Starfish Beach. Work up an appetite riding the waves and spend your evening wining and dining on the waterfront in quirky Bocas Town.
Split your time between this laid-back hub and a more remote setting such as Isla Bastimentos, with thatched resorts and jungle lodges, for a true island geta-way. If you want to really get under the skin of the culture, take a chocolate tour on the Bocas del Toro mainland or visit indigenous groups on other islands with a community tourism initiative.
Fly back to the capital for another shot of urban decadence in the city’s many open-air restaurants, sleek bars and salsa clubs.
1 WEEK
For a taste of tropical Panama, this trip takes you to the hyper-charged capital. Explore the city and see colonial ruins and landmarks like the famous Panama Canal while getting a dose of rainforest adventure. Take the grand finale of a chill Caribbean getaway.
Start by imbibing the rush of Panama City, the country’s vibrant capital. Make a visit to Panamá Viejo to admire the grandi-ose ruins of Spain’s first Pacific settlement, destroyed in a massive pirate raid. Walk or pedal along Cinta Costera, downtown’s
coastal green space, to the ceviche (sea-food) stands at the Mercado de Mariscos. Continue to the historic neighborhood of Casco Viejo, with hip plaza restaurants and rooftop bars amid crumbling ruins, gal-leries and 18th-century churches. Take in the scene strolling the romantic Paseo las Bóvedas.
Take a day trip to nearby Miraflores Locks, where observation decks put you front and center with mammoth ships as they shimmy through the canal. Follow with a rainforest visit nearby. Options include checking out the wildlife-rich Parque Nacional Soberanía, a favorite
Essential Panama
Itineraries
#
#
•
_
Bocas del Toro
PANAMACITY
COLOMBIA
COSTARICA
PACIFICOCEAN
CARIBBEANSEA
Miraflores Locks
Parque NacionalSoberanía
Lago GatúnIsla BastimentosBocas
del ToroMainland
#÷#• #•
#_
ÉÉ
#• #•#•
É
25
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ItIn
erarIes
24
SURVIVAL GUIDE
On the Road
p110de AzueroPenínsula
p178Province
Bocas del Toro
p152ProvinceChiriquí
p134ProvinceVeraguas p92
CocléProvince
p206Province
Colónp221
Kuna YalaComarca de
p235ProvinceDarién
ProvincePanamá
p72p40
Panama City
Bahía
S E A
Golfo de losMosquitos
Laguna deChiriquí
BahíaDamas
Bahía deSan Lorenzo
Bahía deCharco Azul
Golfo de Chiriquí
C A R I B B E A N
de Parita
oo
ní
iI
dR
RoíR
Cío
Rere
oíR
Tbi
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nin
alo
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areV
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R
ga
Jun
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o
Soí
R
acoF
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aF
ile
nx
Rí
ío
R
vida
Díoe
Pi
Rar
d
Bí
El Valle
Antón
Chitré
Las Tablas
Tonosí
Sixaola
Chiriquí Grande
Changuinola
VolcánCerro Punta
Almirante
Bocas Del Toro
Guabito
Río Sereno
Santa Fé
Cañazas
Santiago
San Francisco
ParitaOcú
Las Minas
Macaracas
Soná
Santa Catalina
Las Lajas
David
PuertoArmuelles
Boquete
Las Palmas
Paso Canoas
Natá
Aguadulce
La Pintada
Penonomé
Villa de LosSantos
Volcán Barú (3478m)
e antrrel a CroC id l l
Cerro Santiago(2121m)
81º00'W82º00'W
10º00'N
83º00'W
81º00'W82º00'W
8º00'N
7º00'N
83º00'W
Isla ColónIsla Bastimentos
Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro
Isla CébacoCoibaIsla de
Isla Jicarón
PenínsulaValiente
Península de Azuero
C O S T AR I C A
Parque
La AmistadInternacional
Parque NacionalVolcán Barú
Interamericana
Panama
Parque InternacionalLa Amistad
For trekkers (p177, p201)
Archipiélago deBocas del Toro
Caribbean surf and sun (p179)
BoqueteCoffee farms, lodges and
hiking galore (p163)
Parque NacionalVolcán Barú
Cloud-forest trails (p172)
Parque Nacional CoibaThe Galápagos of
Panama (p145) Santa CatalinaPanama’s undisputedsurfing capital (p141)
Península de AzueroRemote beaches and
fabulous festivals (p110)
Bahía de
PortobeloBahía de
de GarachinéEnsenada
Bahía Piña
O C E A N
P A C I F I C
Golfo de Panamá
Panamá
aañC
az síR
po
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Río
Che
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RíoMogué
u
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aq
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RTu
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alsas
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B
Sío
aR
mb
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Caledonia
FríasLas Aguas
de DiosNombre
El Porvenir
de JesúsCorazónRío Sidra
Nusatupo
TortíIpetí
Wichub-Walá
Chepo
CITYPANAMA
Cartí
El Llano
Portobelo
Colón
La Chorrera
Yaviza
Metetí
Boca deEl Real
Jaqué
Sábalo (Sambú)Garachiné
San Miguel
Santa Fe
La Palma
Pedasí
Punta Chame
Puerto Obaldía
Capurganá
SoberaníaNacionalParque
Parque
DariénNacional
sBlan
da e SranreS í
éja
erredaína
M
Cerro Azul(950m)
S
á
rade
aíl
n
poaS
rSe
Serranía del Darién
78º00'W79º00'W80º00'W
78º00'W79º00'W80º00'W
10º00'N
9º00'N
8º00'N
7º00'N
Archipiélago de San Blás
Isla
Isla Grande
Isla San Telmo
de Las PerlasArchipiélago
Isla del Rey
Isla Contadora
Taboga
Cana
C O L O M B I A
0
3000m
2000m
1500m
1000m
400m
200m
ELEVATION
Inte
r am
eric
ana
100 km00 50 miles
Parque Nacional SoberaníaWorld-famous
bird-watching spot (p78)
Panama CanalThe world's greatest
shortcut (p73)
Archipiélago de San BlásPerfect powder-white islets
in Kuna territory (p221)
Isla TabogaPopular city escape (p81)
Panama CityCentral America’s most
cosmopolitan capital (p40)
Parque Nacional DariénPanama’s wildest and mostinfamous frontier (p245)
Carolyn McCarthyCoordinating Author Author of more than 20 travel guides, Carolyn McCarthy has been traveling the Americas and chronicling her experiences since 1998. For her third visit to Panama she sailed the Caribbean, sat out a riot in Panama City, became the subject of a Kuna congress meeting and managed to kayak the canal without one crocodile encounter. She also drank the water. This is her second time writing the Panama guide. Her work has also appeared in National
Geographic, Boston Globe, Outside, Patagon Journal and other publications.
Read more about Carolyn at: lonelyplanet .com/members/carolynmcc
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although.the.authors.and.Lonely.Planet.have.taken.all.reason-able.care. in.preparing. this.book,.we.make.no.warranty.about.the.accuracy.or.completeness.of.its.content.and,.to.the.maxi-mum.extent.permitted,.disclaim.all.liability.arising.from.its.use .
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN.36.005.607.9836th.edition.–.Sept.2013ISBN.978.1.74220.012.5©.Lonely.Planet.2013....Photographs.©.as.indicated.201310..9..8..7..6..5..4..3..2..1Printed.in.ChinaAll.rights.reserved ..No.part.of.this.publication.may.be.copied,.stored.in.a.retrieval.system,.or.transmitted.in.any.form.by.any.means,.electronic,.mechanical,.recording.or.otherwise,.except.brief.extracts.for.the.purpose.of.review,.and.no.part.of.this.publication.may.be.sold.or.hired,.without.the.written.permission.of.the.publisher ..Lonely.Planet.and.the.Lonely.Planet.logo.are.trademarks.of.Lonely.Planet.and.are.registered.in.the.US.Patent.and.Trademark.Office.and.in.other.countries ..Lonely.Planet.does.not.allow.its.name.or.logo.to.be.appropriated.by.commercial.establishments,.such.as.retailers,.restaurants.or.hotels ..Please.let.us.know.of.any.misuses:.lonelyplanet .com/ip .
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1 WEEK
For a taste of tropical Panama, this trip takes you to the hyper-charged capital. Explore the city and see colonial ruins and landmarks like the famous Panama Canal while getting a dose of rainforest adventure. Take the grand finale of a chill Caribbean getaway.
Start by imbibing the rush of Panama City, the country’s vibrant capital. Make a visit to Panamá Viejo to admire the grandi-ose ruins of Spain’s first Pacific settlement, destroyed in a massive pirate raid. Walk or pedal along Cinta Costera, downtown’s
coastal green space, to the ceviche (sea-food) stands at the Mercado de Mariscos. Continue to the historic neighborhood of Casco Viejo, with hip plaza restaurants and rooftop bars amid crumbling ruins, gal-leries and 18th-century churches. Take in the scene strolling the romantic Paseo las Bóvedas.
Take a day trip to nearby Miraflores Locks, where observation decks put you front and center with mammoth ships as they shimmy through the canal. Follow with a rainforest visit nearby. Options include checking out the wildlife-rich Parque Nacional Soberanía, a favorite
Essential Panama
Itineraries
#
#
•
_
Bocas del Toro
PANAMACITY
COLOMBIA
COSTARICA
PACIFICOCEAN
CARIBBEANSEA
Miraflores Locks
Parque NacionalSoberanía
Lago GatúnIsla BastimentosBocas
del ToroMainland
#÷#• #•
#_
ÉÉ
#• #•#•
É
24
Casco Viejo (p45), Panama City
of avid birders. Climb a canopy tower to search for toucans, capuchin monkeys and sloths or paddle a kayak on Lago Gatún alongside howler monkeys and sunbathing crocodiles.
From Panama City, fly to Bocas del Toro for four days of chill Caribbean vibes. Hire a water taxi to snorkel the clear waters filled with tropical fish and color-ful coral reefs. Explore Isla Colón riding a cruiser bike out to Playa Bluff or Starfish Beach. Work up an appetite riding the waves and spend your evening wining and dining on the waterfront in quirky Bocas Town.
Split your time between this laid-back hub and a more remote setting such as Isla Bastimentos, with thatched resorts and jungle lodges, for a true island geta-way. If you want to really get under the skin of the culture, take a chocolate tour on the Bocas del Toro mainland or visit indigenous groups on other islands with a community tourism initiative.
Fly back to the capital for another shot of urban decadence in the city’s many open-air restaurants, sleek bars and salsa clubs.
25PLAN
YOUR TRIP IT
INER
ARIES
Pacific Coast & Highlands
#
#
•
_
PANAMACITY
David
COLOMBIA
COSTARICA
PACIFICOCEAN
CARIBBEANSEA
Parque InternacionalLa Amistad
El ValleSanta Fé
Santa Catalina
ParqueNacional
Coiba
Boquete
OrangeBlossom Road
Volcán
CerroPunta Sendero Los Quetzales
#÷
#•#•
#• #•
#•
#÷
#•
#•#•
#•
#_
É
É
É
ÉÉ
É
2 WEEKS
Whether you’re traveling on buses or with your own wheels, hit the Interamericana for a route that alternates between scenic beaches and highland cloud forests.
Spend your first few days exploring Panama City, taking tips from the previous itinerary. Then head west along the Interamericana, where you can stop for a leisurely seafood lunch and pass the hours playing in the waves at one of the string of beaches along the Pacific coast. The next stop is El Valle, a mountain retreat surrounded by lush cloud forests and green peaks. Return to the Interamericana, taking a quick stop at one of Coclé’s roadside attractions, then take the turnoff for Santa Fé, a tiny highland town amid spar-kling rivers and gorgeous waterfalls.
For surf time, backtrack to the Interamerica-na and detour to the surf village of Santa Ca-talina. Soak up the laid-back vibe at thatched restaurants and join the local surfing kids nailing the waves on the town beach. Another very good reason to stop here is to connect to Parque Nacional Coiba, a far-flung yet pris-tine island in a vast marine park. Snorkeling, diving and hiking are all top-notch; although there’s minimal infrastructure, it’s worth stay-ing a few days.
Head via David to the popular highland retreat of Boquete in Chiriquí. Enjoy the great hiking, go rafting, take a canopy tour and fill up on mountain-grown coffee. Birders can stalk the resplendent quetzal. Choose from among fine dining options and sleep sound in clean mountain air.
If you have your own wheels, take the new Orange Blossom Road to Volcán, a very sce-nic shortcut. Otherwise grab a bus via David to Cerro Punta. Retreat to a charming rainforest cabin before hitting the trail to hike the Sen-dero Los Quetzales, a stunning trail through wildlife-rich cloud forest. If traveling by bus, you can loop back to Boquete on this hike. If adventure still calls, from Cerro Punta you can access the trails of Parque Internacional La Amistad. Take a guide – the Panamanian side of this international park is virtually undevel-oped and largely unexplored.
If you need to save time, you can fly back to Panama City from David.
26
PLAN YO
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ERARIES
Top: Highlands, Coclé Province (p92)
Bottom: David (p153), Chiriquí Province
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Pacific Coast & Highlands
#
#
•
_
PANAMACITY
David
COLOMBIA
COSTARICA
PACIFICOCEAN
CARIBBEANSEA
Parque InternacionalLa Amistad
El ValleSanta Fé
Santa Catalina
ParqueNacional
Coiba
Boquete
OrangeBlossom Road
Volcán
CerroPunta Sendero Los Quetzales
#÷
#•#•
#• #•
#•
#÷
#•
#•#•
#•
#_
É
É
É
ÉÉ
É
2 WEEKS
Whether you’re traveling on buses or with your own wheels, hit the Interamericana for a route that alternates between scenic beaches and highland cloud forests.
Spend your first few days exploring Panama City, taking tips from the previous itinerary. Then head west along the Interamericana, where you can stop for a leisurely seafood lunch and pass the hours playing in the waves at one of the string of beaches along the Pacific coast. The next stop is El Valle, a mountain retreat surrounded by lush cloud forests and green peaks. Return to the Interamericana, taking a quick stop at one of Coclé’s roadside attractions, then take the turnoff for Santa Fé, a tiny highland town amid spar-kling rivers and gorgeous waterfalls.
For surf time, backtrack to the Interamerica-na and detour to the surf village of Santa Ca-talina. Soak up the laid-back vibe at thatched restaurants and join the local surfing kids nailing the waves on the town beach. Another very good reason to stop here is to connect to Parque Nacional Coiba, a far-flung yet pris-tine island in a vast marine park. Snorkeling, diving and hiking are all top-notch; although there’s minimal infrastructure, it’s worth stay-ing a few days.
Head via David to the popular highland retreat of Boquete in Chiriquí. Enjoy the great hiking, go rafting, take a canopy tour and fill up on mountain-grown coffee. Birders can stalk the resplendent quetzal. Choose from among fine dining options and sleep sound in clean mountain air.
If you have your own wheels, take the new Orange Blossom Road to Volcán, a very sce-nic shortcut. Otherwise grab a bus via David to Cerro Punta. Retreat to a charming rainforest cabin before hitting the trail to hike the Sen-dero Los Quetzales, a stunning trail through wildlife-rich cloud forest. If traveling by bus, you can loop back to Boquete on this hike. If adventure still calls, from Cerro Punta you can access the trails of Parque Internacional La Amistad. Take a guide – the Panamanian side of this international park is virtually undevel-oped and largely unexplored.
If you need to save time, you can fly back to Panama City from David.
27PLAN
YOUR TRIP IT
INER
ARIES
TIE
R U
ND
NAT
UR
FOTO
GR
AFIE J U
ND
C S
OH
NS
/GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©A
LFRE
DO
MA
IQU
EZ
/GE
TT
Y IMA
GES
©
Top: Kuna Yala (p221)
Bottom: Scarlet macaw
Bicoastal Explorer
#_
Colón
COLOMBIA
COSTARICA
PACIFICOCEAN
CARIBBEANSEA
Fuerte San LorenzoGatun Locks
Portobelo
Penínsulade Azuero
PedasíPlaya Venao
Kuna YalaCayos Holandeses
Isla de Cañas
Isla Tigre
Burbayar Lodge
PANAMACITY
#• #•#•
#•
#•#•
#•
#•#•
#•#•
#•
#_
É
ÉÉ É
É
É
É
É
12 DAYS
If you’re itching to get off the beaten path, this seafarer route will bring you to the less touristed Península de Azuero on the Pacific coast, the Afro-Caribbean heartland and the furthest reaches of Kuna Yala (and possibly even Colombia).
Start in the capital of Panama City. From there, take a ride in the luxury train along the historic Panama Railroad through the Canal Zone to Colón to admire the Unesco World Heritage Site of Fuerte San Lorenzo. While in the area, check out the Panama Canal expan-sion at the nearby Gatun Locks. Using Porto-belo as your base, explore 16th-century Spanish forts, boat out to deserted island beaches, scuba dive or attend a festival.
Return to Panama City to travel to the Península de Azuero by bus. From time to time traditional festivals take over the streets of these tiny colonial towns. If your visit co-incides, join the revelers! Otherwise, check out workshops where regional artisans craft Panama hats, lace dresses and colorful diablo (devil) masks. Make your base Pedasí for lei-surely trips to the beach and a friendly village atmosphere. Move on to the more remote Playa Venao to enjoy a pretty half-moon bay, meet other travelers and ride some waves without the crowds. If turtles are hatching, it’s worth mak-ing the pilgrimage to Isla de Cañas.
When you’re ready, return to the capital and take a 4WD or flight to Kuna Yala, a string of hundreds of pristine islands ruled by the Kuna. Thatched huts on dozens of islands run the gamut from bare-bones to creature comfort, with meals and excursions always included. Snorkel and swim to your heart’s content, or charter a sailboat for the grand tour. Highlights include snorkeling the reefs and wrecks of Cayos Holandeses and meeting the locals on the tiny community island of Isla Tigre.
At the end of your trip, return to Panama City via Burbayar Lodge, in a stunning mountain setting on the edge of the Kuna mainland, with great hiking and wildlife-watching. If you are heading on to South America – and bent on adventure – consider a three- to four-day sailing or boat trip to Colombia.
28
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ITIN
ERARIES
Bicoastal Explorer
#_
Colón
COLOMBIA
COSTARICA
PACIFICOCEAN
CARIBBEANSEA
Fuerte San LorenzoGatun Locks
Portobelo
Penínsulade Azuero
PedasíPlaya Venao
Kuna YalaCayos Holandeses
Isla de Cañas
Isla Tigre
Burbayar Lodge
PANAMACITY
#• #•#•
#•
#•#•
#•
#•#•
#•#•
#•
#_
ÉÉ
É É
É
É
É
É
12 DAYS
If you’re itching to get off the beaten path, this seafarer route will bring you to the less touristed Península de Azuero on the Pacific coast, the Afro-Caribbean heartland and the furthest reaches of Kuna Yala (and possibly even Colombia).
Start in the capital of Panama City. From there, take a ride in the luxury train along the historic Panama Railroad through the Canal Zone to Colón to admire the Unesco World Heritage Site of Fuerte San Lorenzo. While in the area, check out the Panama Canal expan-sion at the nearby Gatun Locks. Using Porto-belo as your base, explore 16th-century Spanish forts, boat out to deserted island beaches, scuba dive or attend a festival.
Return to Panama City to travel to the Península de Azuero by bus. From time to time traditional festivals take over the streets of these tiny colonial towns. If your visit co-incides, join the revelers! Otherwise, check out workshops where regional artisans craft Panama hats, lace dresses and colorful diablo (devil) masks. Make your base Pedasí for lei-surely trips to the beach and a friendly village atmosphere. Move on to the more remote Playa Venao to enjoy a pretty half-moon bay, meet other travelers and ride some waves without the crowds. If turtles are hatching, it’s worth mak-ing the pilgrimage to Isla de Cañas.
When you’re ready, return to the capital and take a 4WD or flight to Kuna Yala, a string of hundreds of pristine islands ruled by the Kuna. Thatched huts on dozens of islands run the gamut from bare-bones to creature comfort, with meals and excursions always included. Snorkel and swim to your heart’s content, or charter a sailboat for the grand tour. Highlights include snorkeling the reefs and wrecks of Cayos Holandeses and meeting the locals on the tiny community island of Isla Tigre.
At the end of your trip, return to Panama City via Burbayar Lodge, in a stunning mountain setting on the edge of the Kuna mainland, with great hiking and wildlife-watching. If you are heading on to South America – and bent on adventure – consider a three- to four-day sailing or boat trip to Colombia.
29PLAN
YOUR TRIP IT
INER
ARIES
Golfo de losMosquitos
C A R I B B E A N
S E A
Laguna deChiriquí
DamasBahía
Roí
Tre
íRo
bi e
ené
l
oíR
ex
aF
iln
S
íR
ovid
aD
B
Almirante
Bocas del Toro
Guadalupe
MAINLANDTORO
BOCAS DEL
Río Sereno
ChanguinolaSixaola
Chiriquí Grande
Penonomé
Natá
Aguadulce
Macaracas
Tonosí
AZUEROWESTERN
Chitré
SANTA FÉ
Las Palmas
Cañazas
GOBERNADORAISLA
Santa Catalina
PARQUE
Soná
Las Minas
Ocú
Santiago
San Francisco
COIBANACIONAL PENINSULA
Boquete
David
Paso Canoas
PuertoArmuelles Las Lajas
Volcán Barú (3478m)
latrea Cr eid ll r nCCerro Santiago
(2121m) o
Archipiélago de Bocas del Toro
Isla Colón
Isla CébacoIsla deCoiba
Isla Jicarón
PenínsulaValiente
Península de Azuero
RICACOSTA
ParqueInternacionalLa Amistad
Parque NacionalVolcán Barú
Interamericana
Off the Beaten Track: Panama
ololN
aró
A highland gem, this cowboy town is all about mountain panoramas. Go tubing in the cool river, hike to lush waterfalls and swimming holes, or jump in the saddle to explore. (p137)
SANTA FÉ
Sun, surf and art are the draw of this out-of-the-way Pacific island with community art projects inspired by resident installation artists. (p147)
ISLA GOBERNADORA
With extraordinary marine wildlife, Panama’s newest Unesco World Heritage Site was once its most infamous island prison. Far-flung yet pristine, this little-visited park offers excellent diving and wildlife-watching. (p145)
PARQUE NACIONAL COIBA
With deserted beaches, seasonal visits from hatching turtles and alternative access to ParqueNacional Coiba, this little-known area including Mariato and Palmilla is worth checking out. Get there by bus from Santiago. (p148)
WESTERN AZUERO PENINSULA
Tour a chocolate farm, search for endangered manatees or navigate in a dugout canoe to little-known Naso villages. Or trek through the rugged but beautiful Parque Internacional LaAmistad. (p199)
BOCAS DEL TOROMAINLAND
30
PLAN YO
UR TRIP OFF.T
HE.B
EAT
EN.TRACK
Bahía de
PortobeloBahía de
Panamá
Bahía Piña
O C E A N
P A C I F I C
Bahíade Parita Golfo de Panamá
esr
ehC
Río
po
aoRí Ch
g
Saío
úbm
R
El Porvenir
de JesúsCorazón
Ipetí Tortí
Cartí
El LlanoChepo
Río SidraPortobelo
Colón
Panama City
El Real
Yaviza
NACIONALPARQUE
DARIÉN
Santa Fe
Garachiné
La Palma
Jaqué
SAMBÚ
Metetí
El Valle
Antón
Las Tablas
Pedasí
PUNTA CHAME
Parque
SoberaníaNacional
Bln
de Snrar aí
a
éMe
aj
ás
S
rSeraína
d
e
(950m)Cerro Azul
Sre ra
lde
aín
apoS
Serranía del Darién
Archipiélago de San Blás
Isla Grande
Isla
Archipiélago
Isla del Rey
Isla Contadora
de las Perlas
Taboga
COLOMBIA
Inte
ram
eric
ana
100 km50 miles
00
This jungle hub makes a good base for adventures further afield. Guides take visitors up the Río Sambú and its tributaries to Emberá and Wounaan villages or in search of harpy eagles and petroglyphs. (p244)
SAMBÚSo close to the capital but oft-overlooked, this rugged peninsula with rolling hills and mangroves is a nice wilderness beach retreat – with the added kick of high adrenaline options like kitesurfing. (p89)
PUNTA CHAME
Call it the ultimate adventure. A visit to Central America's most biodiverse park requires authorization and an experienced guide, but no self-respecting adventurer can forgo the jungles of the Darién. (p245)
PARQUE NACIONAL DARIÉN
31PLAN
YOUR TRIP O
FF.THE.B
EAT
EN.TRACK
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