PART-II GENERAL GUIDELINES AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR … Office/6036 Uniform... · PART-II GENERAL...

PART-II GENERAL GUIDELINES AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR SOURCING OF FABRICS

1. Fabric samples along with shade band and lab dips have to be approved prior to bulk production.

2. The shade band and lab dips will have to be approved before the commencement of fabric production. The shade will be matched visually. Any shade variation, from the approved shade will not be acceptable.

3. Test report will have to attach along with samples.4. The tender sample of each offered item will be tested as per

specification by an independent accredited agency nominated by DGVCL.

5. The technical evaluation of the bidder will be finalized only on the basis of test results of independent accredited agency as per cl. No. 4.

6. The item wise colour, shed and design etc. will be given to technically successful bidders for further course of action. The successful Bidder has to submit the sample for each item as per colour, shed and design within week time from the date of intimation to successful bidder by DGVCL.

7. Approval of colour, shed and design for each item will be given separately and commencement of supply will start only after the approval.

8. Lot wise Test report for the mentioned parameter will have to be submitted before dispatch of fabric.

9. Fabric will be in the form of packed cut pieces as per specifications of Fabric pack.

10. No fabric defect of any nature is permissible in the pack, refer Annexure No. 1.

11. Fabric has to comply with all the mentioned test standards.

12. Packing is as per the Annexure No. 2.

13. Each Fabric Pack must be traceable to the lot Number.

14. Shade variation within the same piece is strictly unacceptable.

15. The fabric will be accepted only after a pre dispatch inspection by an independent accredited agency nominated by DGVCL or any person/s deputed by DGVCL and as per DGVCL tender specification.

16. The supplier should offer the lot of cloths for initial Inspection & joint sampling.

17. At random the sample from the offered lot will be collected by DGVCL inspector before making pieces from ‘Taka’ for testing at Textile

Signature of Bidder Date: Company’s Round Seal

Place: 1/21

committee (Govt. of India) / ATIRA / any Govt. approved laboratories Supplier shall have to bear the Testing charges & cloth. The cloth should confirm the test as per Tender specification otherwise the manufactured lot will be rejected. One sample will be tested from each lot of supply against each item.

18. The tenderer should have quality control laboratory.19. The tenderer who selected for supply should inform this office when

the production is start for random on line inspection during the whole production and organization can inspect the process on line at any time without prior intimation.

20. Inspection team will be free to take sample 3 to 5 meters at any stage of production.

21. Batch wise testing reports are required regularly. 22. The tenderer will have to submit the tender sample strictly as per

specification as per Schedule – ‘A’ Cl. No. 7 other wise their bid rejected.

23. The bidder will be responsible for delivery of ordered material within 2 (two) months from the date of receipt of order after commencement period of 1 (one) month.

24. Production sample is to be approved before the bulk production start.

25. Tenderer has to print monogram i.e. “specially made for DGVCL by ____ _____________” by washable colour.

26. Bidder has to submit institutional performance or copy of the purchase order for experience.

27. Bidder has to submit the 5 to 6 design for Saree and Dress materials as per corporate look, if design will not approved by the company then as per Company’s direction tenderer has to develop a new design for print on, Saree & dress materials OR tenderer has to weave as per company’s direction for internal design.

28. The design, colour, print are same in Saree as well as Dress materials. 29. The length of Saree is 6.3 Mtrs. Including blouse i.e. 5.5 Mtrs. for

Saree & 0.8 mtr for blouse. 30. Bidder must have to offer 100% quantity of Group – A or Group – B or

for both Groups. (Annexure – 4)31. Cloth should be supplied in fabric pack as per DGVCL’s requirement

only after approval of Addl. Chief Engineer (P), DGVCL., Corporate Office, Nana Varachha Road, Kapodara, Near Gajjar Petrol Pump, Surat-395006”.


Place: 2/21

ITEM—1: FORMAL TROUSER:

Fabric pack: 1 Fabric code: TR-1-PV

Garment type: Formal Trouser

Category of staff: Administrative &Tech-Adm.

Trim/ accessory: Nil

Remark: The colour for suiting will be given by DGVCL to Technically acceptable bidder for further course of action.

1. PRODUCT: SUITING FABRIC – (Trouser)No. Construction Parameters Requirement Tolerance Method of Test

1 Nominal Count, Denier IS 3442, ASTM D 1059

(a) Warp 2/40s Ne +/- 5%(b) Weft 2/40s Ne +/- 5%


Place: 3/21

Length of fabric:

5.00 metres for 4 trousers

(i.e. 1.25 metres perTrouser)

Sr. No.

Name of Company No. of pack

1 DGVCL 4398

2 No. of threads per inch IS 1963, ASTM D 3775

(a) Warp 126 +5%, -2.5%(b) Weft 68 +5%, -2.5%

3 Width, Inches 60 +/- 0.5 inch IS 1954, ASTM D 3774

4 Length, Meter 1.25 +/- 2 cm IS 1954

5 Mass (Weight in grms/sq. meter – GSM), g/sq.m. 227 +/- 5% (not

less than 210)IS 1964, ASTM D

3776

6 Fibre Composition, % IS 667, IS 3416 part 1, AATCC 20/20A

(a) Polyester, % content 65-70 +/- 3 units(b) Viscose, % content 30-35 +/- units

7 Breaking strength on 5cm x 20cm strip, N (kgf) Minimum IS 1969, ASTM D

5035(a) Warp way 600 (61)(b) Weft way 400 (40.5)

8 Tear Strength, N (Kgf) Minimum IS 6489, ASTM D 1424

(a) Warp way 25 (2.5)(b) Weft way 15 (1.5)

9 Colour Fastness Rating to Minimum

(a) Light: IS 686 or 2454, AATCC 16

Change in colour 5

(b) Washing: IS 3361, AATCC 61-2003

Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 3-4© Perspiration (acidic and alkaline) IS 971, ISO 105-EO4

Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 4

(e) Rubbing IS 766, AATCC 8 & 165

Dry 4Wet 3© Hot Pressing IS 689, AATCC 133Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 4

No. Other Functional Parameters Requirement Tolerance Method of Test

10 Crease recovery angle, degrees Minimum IS 4681, AATCC 66

(a) Dry 240 degrees Signature of Bidder Date: Company’s Round Seal

Place: 4/21

(b) Wet 240 degrees11 Drape, % 60-75 IS 8357

12Dimensional stability to dry heat at 105+/-20C, percent

Maximum IS 12170, AATCC 135-2003

(a) Warp way 1.0(b) Weft way 1.0

13 Dimensional change on washing, percent Maximum IS 1299, AATCC 135

& 150(a) Warp way 2.0(b) Weft way 2.0

14 Pilling resistance (After 5 Hr. of test) 4 Minimum Is 10971, ASTM

3512

15 Soil release efficiency, percent 80 Minimum IS 11813

16 PH value of aqueous extract (Hot method) 6.0 to 8.0 IS 1390

17Abrasion resistance, 5000 cycles, (Martindale method)

4 IS 12673, ASTM D 4966

18 Limited flame spread index 2 Minimum IS 15758

19Yarn type

(a) Warp(b) Weft

Anti static finish and only dyed

p.v. intimate bland will be

used20 Weave Twill

ITEM—2: FORMAL SHIRT:

Fabric pack: 2 Fabric code: SR-1 PC


Place: 5/21

Garment type: Formal Shirt

Category of staff: Administrative &Tech. Adm.

Length of fabric :

6.60 metres for 4 Shirts

(i.e.. 1.65 metres per

Shirt of 60” width)

S. No. Name of company No. of pack

1 DGVCL 4398

Remark: The colour, design for shirting will be given by DGVCL to technically acceptable bidder for further course of action.

2. PRODUCT: SHIRTING FABRICNo. Construction Parameters Requirement Tolerance Method of Test1 Nominal Count, Denier IS 3442, ASTM D 1059

(a) Warp 40s Ne +/- 5%(b) Weft 40s Ne +/- 5%

2 No. of threads per inch IS 1963, ASTM D 3775(a) Warp 136 +5%, -2.5%


Place: 6/21

(b) Weft 70 +5%, -2.5%3 Width, Inches 60 +/- 0.5 inch IS 1954, ASTM D 37744 Length, Meter 1.65 +/- 2 cm IS 1954

5 Mass (Weight in grms/sq. meter – GSM), g/sq.m. 134 +/- 5% IS 1964, ASTM D 3776

6 Fibre Composition, %IS 667, IS 3416 part 1, AATCC 20/20A

etc.(a) Polyester, % content 65-70 +/- 3 units(b) Cotton, % content 30-35 +/- units

7 Breaking strength on 5cm x 20cm strip, N (kgf) Minimum IS 1969, ASTM D 5035


8 Tear Strength, N (Kgf) Minimum IS 6489, ASTM D 1424(a) Warp way 10.0(1.0)(b) Weft way 8 (0.8)



Change in colour 5








(a) Dry 240 degrees(b) Wet 240 degrees

11 Drape, % 60-75 IS 8357

12 Dimensional stability to dry heat at 105+/-20C, percent Maximum IS 12170, AATCC

135-2003(a) Warp way 1.0(b) Weft way 1.0




3512

15 Soil release efficiency, percent 80 Minimum IS 11813


Place: 7/21



4 IS 12673, ASTM D 4966


19Yarn type

(c) Warp(d) Weft

Only micro polyester fiber

yarn with cotton dyed yarn can be used with Anti

static finish

20 WeavePlain/filafil/

pinstrips/TwillChambray/dobby.

ITEM—3: SALWAAR + KURTA: (DRESS MATERIAL)

Fabric pack: 3 Fabric code: SR-2-PC


Place: 8/21

Garment type: Salwaar + Kurta

Category of staff: Administrative

Length of fabric:3.75 Mtrs piece for Pairs of Salwaar + Kurta of 60” width

Trim / accessory: Matching Dupatta as per Pack-4

Sketch of Design Yes

Sr. No. Name of company Color code No. of

pieces

1 DGVCL (Matching to saree) 839

Remark: The colour, shed & design for salwaar and Kurta will be given by UGVCL to technically acceptable bidder for further course of action.

3. PRODUCT: DRESS MATERIAL No. Construction Parameters Requirement Tolerance Method of Test1 Nominal Count, Denier IS 3442, ASTM D 1059

(a) Warp 40s Ne +/- 5%(b) Weft 40s Ne +/- 5%

2 No. of threads per inch IS 1963, ASTM D 3775


Place: 9/21

(a) Warp 136 +5%, -2.5%(b) Weft 70 +5%, -2.5%

3 Width, Inches 60 +/- 0.5 inch IS 1954, ASTM D 37744 Length, Meter 3.75 +/- 2 cm IS 1954

5 Mass (Weight in grms/sq. meter – GSM), g/sq.m. 134 +/- 5% IS 1964, ASTM D 3776

6 Fibre Composition, %IS 667, IS 3416 part 1, AATCC 20/20A

etc.(a) Polyester, % content 65-70 +/- 3 units(b) Cotton, % content 30-35 +/- units

7 Breaking strength on 5cm x 20cm strip, N (kgf) Minimum IS 1969, ASTM D 5035


8 Tear Strength, N (Kgf) Minimum IS 6489, ASTM D 1424(a) Warp way 10.0(1.0)(b) Weft way 8 (0.8)



Change in colour 5









11 Drape, % 60-75 IS 8357

12 Dimensional stability to dry heat at 105+/-20C, percent Maximum IS 12170, AATCC

135-2003(a) Warp way 1.0(b) Weft way 1.0




351215 Soil release efficiency, 80 Minimum IS 11813 Signature of Bidder Date: Company’s Round Seal

Place: 10/21

percent



4 IS 12673, ASTM D 4966


Tenderer has to use warp & weft yarn in such a manner so that it will given effect of dress by using bright colour.

ITEM—4: DUPATTA :

Fabric pack: 4 Fabric code: DU-1 Chiffon


Place: 11/21

Garment type: Dupatta Style: Screen Printed


Length of fabric :

2.50 mtrs piece per Dupatta

(i.e.. 2.50 mtrs per Dupatta)

Sr. No. Name of company

No. of pieces

1 DGVCL 839

Remark: The colour, shed & design for Dupatta will be given by DGVCL to technically acceptable bidder for further course of action.

4. PRODUCT: DUPPATTA - chiffon No. Construction Parameters Requirement Tolerance Method of Test1 Nominal Count, Denier IS 3442

(a) Warp 75 Denier +/- 5%(b) Weft 75 Denier +/- 5%

2 Twist per meter, (TPM) IS 1963, ASTM D 3775


Place: 12/21

Fabric Swatch

(a) Warp 1800,S & Z , alternate

+/- 5%(b) Weft +/- 5%,

3 No. of filament in yarn(a) Warp 70 +/- 2(b) Weft 70 +/- 2

4 No. of threads per inch.(a) Warp 108 + 5 % - 2.5 %(b) Weft 82 + 5 % - 2.5 %

5 Width, Inches 44.50 +/- 0.5 inch IS 1954,6 Length, Meter 2.50 +/- 2 cm IS 19547 Mass (Weight in grms/sq.

meter – GSM), g/sq.m.70 +/- 3% IS 1964, ASTM D 3776

8 Fibre Composition, % IS 667, IS 3416 part 1, AATCC 20/20A etc.

(a) Polyester, % content 100 p Nil9 Breaking strength on 5cm x

20cm strip, N (kgf)Minimum IS 1969, ASTM D 5035


10 Tear Strength, N (Kgf) Minimum IS 6489, ASTM D 1424(a) Warp way 15.0(1.5)(b) Weft way 11(1.1)

11 Colour Fastness Rating to Minimum(a) Light: IS 686 or 2454,

AATCC 16Change in colour 5(b) Washing: IS 3361, AATCC 61-

2003Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 3-4© Perspiration (acidic and alkaline)

IS 971, ISO 105-EO4

Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 4(e) Rubbing IS 766, AATCC 8 &

165Dry 4Wet 3© Hot Pressing IS 689, AATCC 133Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 4

No. Other Functional Parameters

Requirement Tolerance Method of Test

12 Crease recovery angle, degrees

Minimum IS 4681, AATCC 66


13 Drape, % 60-75 IS 835714 Dimensional stability to

dry heat at 105+/-20C, percent



15 Dimensional change on Maximum IS 1299, AATCC 135 Signature of Bidder Date: Company’s Round Seal

Place: 13/21

washing, percent & 150(a) Warp way 2.0(b) Weft way 2.0

16 Pilling resistance (After 5 Hr. of test)

4 Minimum Is 10971, ASTM 3512

17 Soil release efficiency, percent

80 Minimum IS 11813

18 PH value of aqueous extract (Hot method)

6.0 to 8.0 IS 1390

19 Abrasion resistance, 5000 cycles, (Martindale method)

4 IS 12673, ASTM D 4966

20 Limited flame spread index

2 Minimum IS 15758

Tenderer has to use warp & weft yarn in such a manner so that it will given effect of dress by using bright colour.

ITEM—4: SAREE WITH BLOUSE

Fabric pack: 5 Fabric code: SR-1B


Place: 14/21

Garment type: Saree Style Printed sari


Length of fabric :

6.30 mtr. piece of Saree with

Blouse(i.e. 6.30 mtr. per saree with

Blouse )

Sr. No. Name of company

No. of pieces

1 DGVCL 541

Remark: The colour, shed & design for Sari & Blouse will be given by DGVCL to technically acceptable bidder for further course of action.

5. PRODUCT: SAREE- crepe No. Construction Parameters Requirement Tolerance Method of Test1 Nominal Count, Denier IS 3442

(a) Warp 75 Denier +/- 5%(b) Weft 75 Denier +/- 5%

2 Twist per meter, (TPM) IS 1963, ASTM D


Place: 15/21

Fabric Swatch

3775(a) Warp 1800,S & Z ,

alternate+/- 5%

(b) Weft 1800,S & Z , alternate

+/- 5%,

3 No. of filament in yarn(a) Warp 70 +/- 2(b) Weft 70 +/- 2

4 No. of threads per inch.(a) Warp 132 + 5 % - 2.5

%(b) Weft 86 + 5 % - 2.5

%5 Width, Inches 44.50 +/- 0.5

inchIS 1954,

6 Length, Meter 6.30 with blouse +/- 2 cm IS 19547 Mass (Weight in grms/sq.

meter – GSM), g/sq.m.72 +/- 3% IS 1964, ASTM D

37768 Fibre Composition, % IS 667, IS 3416

part 1, AATCC 20/20A etc.

(a) Polyester, % content 100 p Nil9 Breaking strength on 5cm

x 20cm strip, N (kgf)Minimum IS 1969, ASTM D

5035(a) Warp way 240 (24.4)(b) Weft way 190 (19.3)

10 Tear Strength, N (Kgf) Minimum IS 6489, ASTM D 1424

(a) Warp way 20 (2.0)(b) Weft way 15(1.5)

11 Colour Fastness Rating to Minimum(a) Light: IS 686 or 2454,

AATCC 16Change in colour 5(b) Washing: IS 3361, AATCC 61-

2003Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 3-4© Perspiration (acidic and alkaline)

IS 971, ISO 105-EO4

Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 4(e) Rubbing IS 766, AATCC 8 &

165Dry 4Wet 3© Hot Pressing IS 689, AATCC 133Change in colour 4Staining on adjacent fabric 4

No. Other Functional Parameters

Requirement Tolerance Method of Test

12 Crease recovery angle, degrees

Minimum IS 4681, AATCC 66



Place: 16/21

13 Drape, % 60-75 IS 835714 Dimensional stability to

dry heat at 105+/-20C, percent



15 Dimensional change on washing, percent

Maximum IS 1299, AATCC 135 & 150


16 Pilling resistance (After 5 Hr. of test)

4 Minimum Is 10971, ASTM 3512

17 Soil release efficiency, percent

80 Minimum IS 11813

18 PH value of aqueous extract (Hot method)

6.0 to 8.0 IS 1390

19 Abrasion resistance, 5000 cycles, (Martindale method)

4 IS 12673, ASTM D 4966

20 Limited flame spread index

2 Minimum IS 15758

Tenderer has to use warp & weft yarn in such a manner so that it will give effect of Silk saree by using bright colour.

ANNEXURE- 1

List of Fabric DefectsNature Defects


Place: 17/21

Yarn Defects Broken Filaments, Color flecks , Slubs, Knots

Weaving Defects

Broken Ends, Broken Ends Woven in a Bunch, Broken Pattern, Double End, Float, Gout, Hole-Cut or Tear, Lashing-in, Local Distortion, Missing Ends, Oil or other Stain, Oily or Soiled Ends, Oily Weft, Reed Marks, Selvedge Defect, Slough Off, Smash, Snarls, Stitches, Untrimmed Loose threads, Weft Bar, Weft Crack.

Processing Defects

Bleaching spot, Blurred or Dark Patch, Defects caused by Hanging Thread, Dye Bar, Dyestuff Stain Misprint/Absence of Print, Patchy or Streaky or Uneven Dyeing, Pilling, Shading or Listing, Uneven Printing or Tinting, Water Mark, White Spot.

Embroidery Defects Wrong Placement, Tilting of Embroidery, Broken threads, Incomplete embroidery, Shade Variation.

Visual DefectAny visual defect that may affect, salability, serviceability, appearance of the fabric in a way that is significantly unacceptable for sale.


Place: 18/21

ANNEXURE- 2

Specifications for packing:

1. Pack should contain one pc. Of fabric length, sketch of design, trim etc. as mentioned in fabric Pack No.: ½/3.

2. Ready Pack size 12” x10” ( +/- ½”)3. Material: Self adhesive poly bag, gauge: 2004. Necessary warning should be printed in front side of bag to keep it

away from the reach of children.


Place: 19/21

Pack No: 16 font Fabric code: 14 fontColour code: 14 fontLot no: 12 fontSort No.: 12 font

Sticker

This side up

10”

12”

Warning

This bag is not a toy.Keep it away from the

reach of children

Hole

ANNEXURE- 3

List of Fabric sources:

Fabric No. Fabric code: Fabric for Fabric Type

1 TR-1-PV

Trouser 4398 Nos. of Pack(1 Pack = 4 Pieces)(1 Piece = 1.25 Mtr.)

(5.00 Mtr./Pack)

PV suiting

2 SR-1-PC

Shirting 4398 Nos. of Pack(1 pack = 4 Pieces)(1 Piece = 1.65 Mtr.)

(6.60 Mtr./Pack)

PC Shirting (As per

Specification)

3 SR-2- PCSalwaar + Kurta 839 nos. of Pieces(1Piece=5.5 Mtr.)

PC Salwar + Kurta(As per

Specification)

4 DU-1Dupatta

839 nos. of Pieces(1Piece=2.50 Mtr.)

Chiffon (As per Specification)

5 SR-1BSaree with Blouse

541 nos. of Pieces(1Piece=6.30 Mtr.)

Polyester (As per

Specification)


Place: 20/21

ANNEXURE- 4

Group of Fabric Pack for Tender bid

Sr. No. Group Details Fabric Pack

1 Group-A

Fabric: PV SuitingMale Staff: Administration Fabric pack No.: 1

Fabric: PC Shirting Male Staff: Administration and

Technical

Fabric pack No.: 2

2 Group-B

Fabric: Salwaar –Kurta + DupattaFemale Staff: Administration Fabric pack No.: 3 + 4

Fabric: Saree with BlouseStaff: Women -Administration and

TechnicalFabric pack No.: 5

Note: Bidder must have to offer 100% quantity for both groups A&B.


Place: 21/21

Date post:	09-Apr-2020
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PART-II GENERAL GUIDELINES AND SPECIFICATIONS FOR … Office/6036 Uniform... · PART-II GENERAL...

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