( PARTICIPATORY APPROACH TO BEACH TOURISM IN
VARKALA
( B. VIJAYAKUl\1AR
(
(
Project Report Sponsored by the EQUATIONS, Bangalore
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Words are inadequate to express gratitude to the heartful co-operation
and participation extended by the people of Varkala for the successful
completion of this work. ] can recollect a good number of faces but can
name only a few - Mr.Babu, Sr.Lecturer, Govt. College Pattambi, Mrs.Leela,
the ward member, Mr.Mukundan, Mr.Rasheed, Mr.Sanjeev, Mr.Sujith .... the
list is incomplete. I am deeply indebted to them.
Dr.P.N.Sankaran, Reader, University College deserves special thanks
for his constructive suggestions. The involvement and co-operation shown
by Mr.Rajasekharan Pill ai, the project Assistant is invaluable. Thnaks are also
due to Mr.Robin, Mr.Subrahmaniam and Mr. Sunil John.
The initiative and enthusiasm shown by the EQUATIONS, is the real
driving force behind this venture. I am thankful to Mr.K.T. Suresh and
Mr.Hari Babu for their support and whole hearted co-operation. Once again
] thank all the participants and informants for their valuable suggestions.
B.VIJAYA KUMAR
25.04.2000. Trivandnun.
CONTENTS
Page No.
Acknolwledgements
Introduction 1
Chapter I Tourism in Varkala: An overview 5
Chapter II Approach to the study l5
Chapter III Peoples Action For Tourism 24
ChpaterIV Conclusion 4l
References 43
1
INTRODUCfION
Tourism, the multifaceted industry, has intruded into human activity deeply
that neither the elite nor the downtrodden is spared off its impacts. No
industry has so much interlinkages with economic, social, cultural and
environmental spheres than tourism. The world wide acceptance of
tourism industry is chiefly attributed to its capacity to generate foreign
exchange, employment and income, by increasingly making use of the
natural endowments. "But the growth of the industry raises a spectre of
destruction of traditional life style, new colonialist relationship of
exploitation and over dependence upon an unreliable single industry and
inflation". Since most of the tourism attractions, are 'common' for which
no individual or agency has specific responsibility, the inevitability of the
'tragedy of the common' follows. Mass tourism destinations have
already exhibited the growth of tourism along this line and has created
certain irrepairable, formidable and hannful impacts to the host community
in general, as well as the guest in particular. The ever spreading
globalisation and concommitant commercialization have added fuel to
fire by making tourism a most fashionable industry ofthe 21 st century.
While steps are initiated to exploit and export nature's bounty through web
sites, there is growing concern for the environmental catastrophe, social
ill health and unfair trade practices of the tourism industry. The growth
and development of a destination passes through various stages like
euphoria, apathy, irritation, antagonism as Doxey (1976) rightly put it
2
and reaches its zenith where environment changes irreversibly, resource
base and tourist type changes.
The socio cultural impacts 0 f tourism is manifested through the
changes in the value system, individual behaviour, family relationship
collective life styles, safety levels, moral conduct, creative expressions,
traditional ceremonies and community organization. Wolf (1972) states
that socio-cultural impacts are people's impacts; they are about - the
effects on the people of host communities their direct and indirect
association with tourists. Literature on the social impacts of tourism
(Alister, 1982) usually considers interpersonal relations moral conduct,
religion and language.
Commercialisation of culture is one of the most deternent
consequences ofmass tourism. With increasing exposure to the outside
world, local cultures have become 'pseudo-native "their cultures becoming
more closely integrated with that of the surrounding majority". The arts
and crafts ofnative people have changed in style and form and also in the
purpose for which they are produced. Tourism has been accused ofbeing
culturally 'arrogant' for manipulating the traditions and customs ofpeople
to make tourist experience more interesting and satisfying. The
attractions usually display only a small and superficial part of local
culture. Cultural arrogance is also displayed by tourist developers and
promoters. Even in architectural style and activities at the destination,
the western domination prevails.
3
The latest and major casualty of mass tourism is the
environment. Environment includes not only land, air, water, flora and
fauna but also encompasses people, their creations and the social,
economic and cultural conditions that influence their lives.
Since widespread growth of mass tourism is experienced mainly
in beach resorts, they fall an easy prey to all negative impacts to
tourism growth. Growth and development of tourism resorts along
the coastal lines in the developing world create a large number of
Issues. To start with it interferes with the traditional mode of
living. Locals are forced to vacate their homeland for tourism
purpose. The aftermath of unregulated growth ofbeach tourism is
the alienation of the residents in their own land. As business
progresses, the locals are being pushed back by the tourism
industrialist and the former is placed between the devil and deep
sea, as they are destined to embrace all negative impacts. Once
the destination is socially, culturally and environmentally exploited
and deteriorated the business will gradually shift to new and
unspoilt areas where history repeats. In this context it is highly
imperative to search for an alternative in which the stake holders
have a 'say' in tourism development A self regulated mechanism
manned by the locals can contribute much in this direction. The present
study is a modest attempt to frame an action plan for tourism
development in Varkala with peoples participation. Varkala, the
Sanctum sanctorum of pilgrimage is today gaining popularity as a
4
tourist centre and one cannot simply ignore the slowly emerging
ripples of mass tourism.
The present study is structured into four chapters. A brief overview
ofVarkala including tOllfism activity is given in the first chapter. The
second chapter, approach to study-gives more emphasis to methodology.
The analysis of PRA meeting is provided in the third chapter. General
conclusion and observations are given in the last chapter.
5
CHAPTER 1
VARKALA -AN OVERVIEW
Varkala, popularly known as the southern Kasi' is situated 54Km North west
ofThiruvananthapuram, the capital city ofKeralam. The coastal land is a
magic blend of scenic beauty interwomen with sanctity, mythology and
history. For it is the abode of 2000 years old Janardana Swamy Temple,
Sivagiri Mutt-the sacred Samathi of Sree Narayana Guru the renounced
social reformer of the century and the Papanasam beach where thousands
gather to pay obsequies to their late forefathers. Varkala is a moderate tropical
climate region. Like any other part ofKeralam, Varkala has also frequent
monsoons. These are mostly South West monsoons extended from June to
September and North East monsoon spread over from October to November.
From December to February the place is endowed with colder, kinder climate
and a tropical climate from March to May. The Varkala Municipality is placed
I ,
in 08° 43 N latitude from the equator and 76 46 E longitude from the
Greenwich meridian. Spread over an area of 15.4 sq.km and divided into 24
wards, the total population of the municipality is 38987 (91 census). The
density ofpopulation is 2535. With an agrarian background, the society is
composed ofEzhava, Nair and Muslim communities living in harmony.
Mythological Evolution
Legends ascribe the origin ofVarkala to Narada, the musician sage
who is the son of B rah ma- the lord of creation. According to mythology,
6
Narada after paying homage to Lord Vishnu, the lord of the universe, at
Vaikundam was enroute to Brahma loka to meet his father, playing his beloved
veena and singing. Lord Vishnu was so enamoured ofhis divine music that he
followed Narada to Brahma Loka, without the Sage's knowledge. When Lord
Vishnu observed that Brahma had seen him, he disappeared.
The twelve prajapathis (The Gods like sun, moon, etc. created by
Brahma during the creation of the world) laughed at Brahma, observing his
obvious discomfiture at witnessing the respect shown by Vishnu for Narada.
The infuriated and insulted Brahma is believed to have cursed the prajapathis
to take birth as humans to atone for the sin ofridiculing the Lord ofcreation.
Characteristically the mischievous Narada stepped in at this stage to offer
advice to the prajapathis. He suggested them to do penance at the place where
his 'Valkalom', (garb made ofthe barkofa tree) which he threw down. Atthis
precise spot, a temple was consecrated to Lord Vishnu. The vicinity came
to be known as Varkala which later became popular as Varkala.
Historical Importance
History shows that Varkala, known as 'Dakshina Kasi', was a
spiritual destination to the Hindu pilgrims from time immemorial.
Inorder to link with the water ways of Kerala, the earstwhile rulers of
Travancoreconstructed two tunnels at Varkala. Sree Narayana Guru, one
of the foremost social reformers of Kerala had chosen Varkala as his
field of operation. The present Sivagiri hill at Varkala is the imaginative
7
creation of the Guru. Dr. Nataraja Guru, philosopher and one of the main
disciples ofSree Narayana Guru founded the East-west university at Varkala
in 1954 for spiritual study and research. Role of Varkala in the freedom
movement is also appreciable and admirable.
Resource Endowments
The total geographical area of Varkala is 1542 hectors. Out of
this only 890 hectares is utilised for agriculture and allied activities.
The rest is being used for railways, TS canal, public roads, hospitals,
educational institutions commercial and trading establishments, dwelling
centre of worship, and others. Cocount is the major crop cultivated
followed by paddy. No mineral deposit has been discovered so far.
Fishing is not commercialiscd. Scarcity of water both for drinking and
agriculture is acute. Farmers mainly depend on monsoon for cultivation.
The People
Majority of population hails from Ezhava community. The other
dominating groups are Nairs and Muslims. Though scheduled castes are not
rare the representation of scheduled tribe is practically nil, according to
the census report. Varkala is a paramount example of secularism and
religions harmony. Commercial riots have never been reported. The
demographic picture of the municipality is given in Table 2.1.
8
Table 2.1
General Information of Population (1991 census)
Item Nos
Population 38,987
Male 18,560
Female 20,427
Scheduled Caste 6156
Scheduled Tribes Nil
DensIty 2535
No. of families 8000
No.ofvoter 28800
Source: Varkala Municipality, Plan Report, 1998 -1999, P.7
Cultural Heritage
Varkala reflects the versatile cultural heritage of Keralam even
many decades before the place had entered the annals of history as the
paragon of religious harmony. The socio-cultural institutions of the 19th
century were responsible for bringing out, positive changes in the
society, consequently, the entire society, irrespective of creed or sex
got an opportunity to come to the main stream of the society. The
natives are soft spoken and a good number of them have conversant
communicative skill in English and Arabic and are accustomed to various
cultural patterns. The rule played by Sivagiri Mutt, East west university
9
and Mannania university in uplifting the cultural heritage of the region is
really praise worthy.
The Economy
The place has a remarkable and a little complicated economy. Based
on GDP, it is a backward region with no economic security. The main
occupation is agriculture and the meagre land holdings make the people small
and marginal farmers. Amidst the scattered traditional and cottage industries,
there is no hard core industry worth to mention. A good number ofpeople
are engaged in traditional industries like coir, coconut processing etc. Fishing
is seasonal and is practised only on small scale. Most of the industries,
numbering more than 250, are registered as small scale industrial units.
These units are engaged in the production ofdiversified products like ready
made garments, workshops, timber units, printing, oil mills, photostat,
engineering workshop, tire retreading, electronics, soap manufacturing,
poultry, handicrafts and the like.
The human resource is not properly utilised, as a good number of
educated, technically skilled and manually potential youths have sought solace
in the middle east due to the chronic unemployment in the country in
general and the area in particular. The entire economy, including the
unprecedented consumerism, is backed by foreign remittance. The network
of branches ofalmost all commercial banks, with foreign exchange facility
stand as a testimony to this. The NRI remittance, income generated through
10
petty trade and commerce together with negligible agricultural income,
pilgrims and tourist spending constitute the major sources ofincome to locals.
Tourisms in Varkala
From time immemorial Varkala was renounced as a pilgrim
centre. The annual gathering at JanaI'dana Swami temple and papanasan is
well acknowledged. The Sivagiri mutt and East West university gave a
philosophical outlook to Varkala and the spas and naturopathy centre
added symphony. Commercial tourism in Varkala is only of recent origin.
Though tourists were there at Varkala for 15 years or so it was not reckoned
as a commercial tourist centre. The establishment of Taj hotel and the
diminishing popularity of Kovalam beach resort are the main reasons for
the growth of Varkala as a commercial tourist centre. Gradually pushing
back the pilgrim importance to second place Varkala is marching towards
commercial! mass tourism.
The main attributes ofVarkala tourism is its seasonality. The season
begins at September, attains full bloom towards December and last long
upto May. Many ofthe natives at the vicinity of the cliff in Korakkanny
ward of Varkala municipality earn a means of living for a year by
indulging themselves in tourism business
Major Attractions
Varkala, from very old days is renouned as a pilgrim centre attracting
11
pilgrims to lanardana Swami temple, papanasam and Sree Narayana Mutt.
Apart from the sanctity ofthese, today both domestic and foreign travellers
are attracted to Varkala by its natural beauty of which the most prominent
one is the Varkala BEACH. The two cliffs leaning towards the sea is a rare
sight at any sea cost. The umbrella of privacy provided by the cliff
coupled with the Ayurveda and naturopathy in a salubrious climate, the
hospitality of the rural folk and the low cost ofliving are the major factors
:lttracting more tourist especially foreigners to Varkala. The destination in
general offers a thrill, an ecstasy, an extraterrestrial feeling, solace, a
spiritual bliss, an excitement; something which is special and memorable.
By and large tourist are drawn to Varkala by nature based attractions.
The Business
Private sector is the major player in tourism industry in Varkala.
Leaving the spiritual/philosophical centres to the original caters, at
present, the private sector is mainly concentrated to beach and health
tourism in the vicinity of cliff and papanasam beach. Emulating the
pattern of tourism development at Kovalam, Varkala is also growing
along the same line through private initiative. There are 12 permanent
hotels close to the cliff and papanasan beach of which 8 provide
boarding facility. The only one 4 star hotel at Varkala is owned by the Taj
group. During season atleast 40 hotels / restaurants were set up by the
natives and outsiders catering traditional, South Indian, Chines and
Continental dishes.
12
In the accommodation sector besides the professional groups,
there is a fast growing section - the locals providing paying quest facility
at their own style. A good number of tourist are leaning towards this type
ofaccommodation as it provides unique opportunity to get accustomed
to Kerala tradition and way oflife.
The health clubs, serving the traditional age old Ayurvedic system
and yoga are the real test] monials of tourists resorts in Kerala. The
foreigners are particularly enthusiastic to the Ayurveda massage. A
mushroom growth ofhealth clubs and yoga camps even gents special and
ladies special are common phenomenon during seasons. One may wonder
whether authentic service is provided by these centres and a good number
of them exhibit a shady character among the residents
The sales outlets are centered chiefly to handicrafts and paintings.
These emporias are mostly owned by people from Kashmir, Kamataka
and even from Bhutan. While a handful ofthem operate round the year a
good number of them vanishes as season ends. While some have
managed to possess their own land and buildings others manages to get
space on lease. Boys and girls between the age group of 8-15 are widely
employed as sales agents. Children selling curios during season at the beach
area is a common sight. It is alleged that children bought from neighbouring
state are used for prostitution also.
13
The tourists
Tourists both domestic and foreign from far and wide visit Varkala.
They include both casual and regular visitors. But most of them are short
haul visitors. Foreign tourist generally hails from all parts of Europe and
Middle East. However, Italy, Germany, England and Austria dominate the
list. Due to lack of proper accounting mechanism the accurate number of
visitors in Varkala is kept in dark. Though the practice of filing 'e'
from to the police station is a prerequisite, the locals opine that the
actual numbers to Varkala will normally be 3 times or even more than the
number of'C form' field. A profile of foreign tourist would reveal that it
including students, professionals and business people. By and large the
area is covered by middle and lower middle class tourists.
The Beneficiaries
Without dispute tourism has been acknowledged as an industry
bringing more and additional income and more employment especially
to the locals. To start with Beach tourism in Varkala heavily relied upon
the locals. In the stage of euphoria, locals at Korakkanny cordially invited
tourist and whatever they pay constitute additional source ofincome to them.
Gradually the locals began to provide food and accommodation at
nominal rates with in the available facility. In due course, attracted by
the potential profit in tourism business, people from Kovalam and other
parts joined the locals for supplying facilities. A hand full of locals
14
mainly the gulf returnees also joined the fray. During the last five years
there is markable increase in the number of foreigners coming to Varkala.
The search for calm and c1e~m beach, disgust towards mass tourism and re
direction of tourists to Varkala from Kovalam by business people etc. seems
to be the main reasons. Gradually tourism in Varkala began to grow along
the path set by Goa and Kovalom. Today one can find all negative impacts
of mass tourism in its, infancy at Varkala. Notwithstanding the fact that
some locals are dead against the type of development taking place at
Varkala nothing concrete has been done to put it on a sustainable track.
There is a growing fear among the locals that the destination will loose
its original charm very soon and the industry will slip into the hands of
outsiders at any moment.
It is in this context, after sharing the Views of the locals we
thought of preparing an Action plan for Tourism Development at Varkala
with local participation. The enthusiastic and enterprising locals have a
bunch of ideas and resources at their disposal. But how to concretise it
is a major issue. The present study is an attempt to identity areas where
local participation can be ensured to cherish sustainable tourism.
15
CHAPTER II
APPROACH TO THE STUDY
Significance
Keralam, the southern most part ofIndian Peninsula, is enriched with
diverse natural attractions of which the 570 kms length coastline provide
inexplicable potential for the development of Beach Tourism. Once
Keralam was identified as a destination to be developed at international
level, the authorities might have overwhelmed by the advantage and
prosperity that it could bring to the state as well as to the country in the
tourism horizon. Keen in providing some infrastructure facility especially
accommodation and drinking water, everything else were left open to the
whims and fancies of the private resulting in the unplanned and hence
unregulated growth and development of tourism in Kovalam. It is quite
natural that for obvious reasons, Kovalam began to grow along the line set by
Goa. Of too late, the policy makers realised their folly and took fruit less
efforts to bring Kovalam back to the track. Notwithstanding the fact that
Kovalam stand a testimony to how a destination, particularly a beach resort
should not grow, little earnest efforts have been made to ensure the
sustainable development of beach tourism along the west coast of
Keral am. Varkala is not an exception.
There is great hue and cry from the administrators, policy makers and
people at large, to convert the entire state into a tourism village, whereby
16
more employment and income can be generated in the rural area with
relatively small capital investment. But one may doubt whether the steps
initiated to cherish this goal is well thought out or not. The doubt is mainly
due to the strong under currents that are in operation in the industry and
their complicated interrcbtionship. Just like the good old planning
practices where the planners prepare plans for the down troddens on the
presumption that they do not know what they want, quite often tourism
plans were thrust up on the rural people as a panacea for rural economic
ills. It is high time to take some pragmatic approach so that locals at the
destination automatically become the guide and guardian of the destination
where by sustainable development of the site can be ensured.
Tourism was given a low priority in the development paradigm of
Kerala till the eighth five year plan. Though tourism was assigned the
status of an industry in 1986, nothing concrete has been done to promote it
along sustainable path. The new planning process initiated in the state
provide ample opportunity to shift the focus of tourism from an elite
industrialist centered to people centered. While identifying priority
sectors for development in rural areas and preparing projects for productive
activities, tourism find a place of significance. At least for the first
time people in the panchayatsl villages felt that they can use their
natural resources for developing tourism to cherish their economic
objectives. Simultaneously the government explicitly stated its desire to
promote environment friendly tourism also. Though the background for
17
people's participation In tourism is set by the ninth plan and the
government tourism policy, conventional tourism programmes went
unabated. Varkala is a very good example where tourism is being
developed along the Kovalam line which in turn derived lessons from
Goa. Needless to say that the encroachment ofout siders as suppliers
of accommodation, food and beverages, handicrafts, curious health clubs
and traditional treatments will push the locals definitely behind the
certain. In the lure for making wind fall gains drug, prostitution and other
anti social activities are also promoted by a few who consider Varkala
as a transit destination in their business journey. Quite a good number of
locals now believe that tourism is Big peoples Business and they cannot
do anything in it. They fear that only by pumping more money they can
reap profit. The helpless poor are forced to rent out their land for tourism
which in due course may be appropriated by the business people. The
need of the houris to develop a plan of action where by the locals
should have a 'say' in tourism development. The present study is a modest
attempt to prepare an action plan for tourism development with peoples
participation in Varkala.
Objectives
The broad objectives of the study is to prepare an Action Plan for
the development ofBeach tourism in Varkala with peoples participation.
However in the backdrop of the ongoing peoples campaign for the Ninth
five year plan in the state we have made the following specific objectives.
18
I. To make an assessment of the resource endowments of the locality
2. To identify areas where maximum local participation can be ensured
for developing beach tourism
3. To formulate an Action Plan for tourism development in Varkala.
l\'lethodology
Secondary data, primarily from the development report of Varkala
municipality will be taken for assessing the resource endowments ofthe study
area. However, the study will mainly depend on the Participatory Rural
Appraisal Technique (PRA). PRA, propounded by Robert Chambers, is a
novel method for ascertaining community, group and individual problems of
a village, assessing the available natural and physical resources, identifYing
commonly acceptable solution and formulating time bound action plans
for possible implementation primarily with their own resources and
where ever feasible with those mobilised from outside the community.
Under this method, community commands top most priority and outsiders
are catalysts and facilitators. PRA differs in its perception, approach, content,
execution and application to field settings. People command prime ofplace,
their participation counts much, their suggestions! options are most respected
and their presence at every stage is attached great significance.
PRA describes a growmg family of approaches and methods to
enable local people to share enhance and analyse their knowledge of life
_l
19
and condition to plan and act. Its purpose is more to gam an understanding
of the complexities ofa topic rather than to gather highly accurate statistics
on a list ofvariables. It is applied more effectively in relatively homogeneous
rural communities which share common knowledge, values and beliefs,
although it has also been used in more complex urban environment
(Chambers '92). PRA approach and methods have been used for appraisal
analysis and many subject areas such as agro ecosystem, natural
resources, research on urban housing problems, social, cultural and
economic conditions etc.
A community approach can give greater and valuable contributions
encouraging wider participation in tourism. Many studies indicate the
importance of community participation in tourism planning so that the
local population and women in particular, are not excluded from the benefits
of tourism development. Murphy (1985) had given a refined version of
community approach to tourism development in his book "Tourism: A
Community Approach". He advocated the use ofan ecological approach to
tourism planning which emphasised the need for local control over the
development process. One of the key components of the approach is the
notion that in satisfying local needs it may also be possible to satisfy the
needs of the tourist.
Community oriented approach to tourism posit a 'pluralistic'
approach to tourism development. In the pluralistic view of power and
decision making, "Power is totally embodied and fully reflected in "Concrete
20
decisions" or in activity bearing directly upon their making (Bachrach and
Baratz 1970). Further, the pluralistic basis ofcommunity tourism planning
assumes that all parties have an equal opportunity to participate in the
political process. Under pluralistic approach power is relatively evenly
distributed with in the community and will shift according to issues and
the range of interests and values involved.
A community approach to tourism planning is a 'bottom up' form of
planning, which emphasises development in the community rather than
development of the community (Hall, C 1991) It implies a high degree of
public participation in the planning process and there will be a community
process. The local residents are regarded as the focal point of tourism
planning.
While preparing an Action plan for Beach Tourism Development
we heavily depend on PRA. The ongoing peoples campaign
programme has already generated an awareness among public about
the need for participation in developmental acti vities. The modes
operandi of PRA in Varkala include preparation of field work,
designing PRA tools, guide lines for action and guide lines for PRA
report. The preparation of field work in the study area include review
of secondary sources, preparation of check lists of questions and
topics for interview and direct observations, selection of key
informants and assigning of tasks to PRA team. With the information
gathered from the secondary source and informants, a semi-structured
21
questionnaire was prepared. This formed part ofthe agende of first meeting.
The first-meeting has succeeded in identifying major areas where locals
wish to participate. In the second phase detailed descussion were held on
these areas. The analysis of the PRA meeting fonTIs the report.
The PRA team
Besides the Principal Investigator the PRA team included Dr.PN
Sankaran, Reader,University College and formerly Chief Decentralised
Planning, State Planning Board, Govt. of Kerala, Sri. Rajasekharan and
Robin.C, , research scholars, University of Kerala, one post graduate
students in Tourism, University of Kerala and Mr. Sunil John, a
Sociologist.
The Study Area
Varkala Beach - The papanasam and cliff - is spread over Korakkanny ward
in Varkala municipality. The main focus of the PRA team is the suburbs of
beach area in Korakkany vvard. In addition we conducted interviews and
observations in and around Korakkany as some business people, social
workers and voluntary agencies are located in the neighbourhood area.
The field work
As already stated the work of the PRA team at Varkala started in
September 1999. Initially we made an attempt to bring together some key
informants in the locality. After identifying same key informants we
22
organised a meeting where informants are expected to give us more
insight about Varkala in general and Korakkanny in particular. The first
meeting was organised on Sept. 22nd. The informants include
representatives of local bodies, voluntary agencies, social workers and
retired personals. With the secondary data and the information provided
by key informants we have decided to convene a meeting of the local
people.
Twenty five locals participated in the first meeting. The locals
were given a free hand to discuss the issues, and possibilities of tourism in
Varkala. The PRA team has succeeded in identifying some broad area
which need further indepth enquiry. The meeting concluded with a
decision to convene a still larger forum incorporating females too.
After ten days another round was held where 39 people participated.
Emergence of more concrete and practical views were the result of the
final round. The group was unanimous in protecting the economic, social,
cultural and environmental interest of the locality. The next chapter
analysis in detail the observation, inferences and opinions ofparticipatory
approach. While doing so we accept that there are same who from the
very first round itself have shown their disinterest in this endeavour. In
their own words II we have no time to chat with these people. Instead of
indulging in fruitless discussion we can convert our precious time into dollars.
Because this is season".
23
However the expenence of the PRA team at Varkala reveals a
positive approach kept by the locals by and large and their keen interest to
protect their locality from cent per cent commercialisation and staged
authenticity .
24
CHAPTER - III
PEOPLES ACTION FOR TOURISM
Peoples participation as an instmment for implementing the Ninth
five year plan has gained wide spread acceptance in Kerala with in a short
span of time. Under this novel attempt all panchayats, municipalities and
municipal corporations in the state were given the mandate to prepare
their development reports, formulate and implement project for
development. In the backdrop of a brief sketch of the history of the
locality the development report provide detailed sketch of the resource
endowments and development potentials. By decentralising power and
money and ensuring peoples participation at various levels, projects were
prepared and implemented. A new era opened in the history ofplanning
in Kerala. For the first time in the history of planning, people have got an
opportunity to sit together and discuss their needs and requirements. The
gramasabha or ward committee provided the forum. It is expected that the
process will enable cost effective and time bound implementation of
schemes by mobilising local resources inc1uding knowledge and skill.
As the peoples plan programme provided an opportunity for every
body to participate in various socio-economic activities of their locality, it
has succeeded considerably in spreading the mission of participation in
every nook and comer ofthe state. It is in this background we have decided
to prepare a model for Peoples participation for Beach Tourism in Kerala.
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26
participation for material benefits are reckoned as participatory approaches,
the real form ofparticipation emenates from the chances given to the stake
holders to influence the out come of decision making. Here people believe
that participation is their right and they have complete control over the
project. Any society aspiring for sustainable development should inevitably
apply participatory approach which in tum will enable them to find out missing
links and suggest remedial measures with no loss of time.
The Dawn of Tourism
One cannot precisely say when and where tourism staI1ed in Varkala.
The land had close association with outsiders from time immemorial, thanks
to its religious and philosophical background. Probably it is in the latter half
of 1980's Ittourists" began to visit Varkala. Interestingly, it is noted that
'foreigners' visiting the bc'ach were considered as 'tourists' by the locals and
they were extended hospitality which in tum was highly appreciated. The
mineral spring and cliff are really exotic to the foreigners. The locals by
and large are ignorant about the medicinal value ofmineral water. The poor
farmers who do not own a well or a tap have luxurious bath in mineral
water and used it for drink ing purpose. The natural mineral water, salublious
climate, naturopathy, coupled with pollution free environment contributed
much positively to the health status of the people who engaged themselves
in petty trade farming fishing and other traditional activities. ,
27
Originally Varkala was visited by inquisitive foreigners who are in
search of serine natural beauty solitude and authenticity. As 'commercial
tourism' was not popular 10reigners were accomodated in the available local
facility and what ever they pay constitute a supplementary income to the
locals. The guest and host were happy where Doxey's euphoria operated.
Gradually NRIs of Varkala and other enterprising groups began to invest
in hotels, restaurant and health clubs and gave tourism a commercial face.
The four star hotel owned by Taj was a centre of attraction to the package
tourists. In due course, seasonal tourism began to flourish with all
accessories and associated evils. On observation, it is found that tourism in
Varkala is growing along the line set by Kovalam and with in no time the
destination will transform into another mass tourism centre with all
associated negative impacts. It is in this juncture, we have decided to
explore the possibilities of developing tourism in Varkala with peoples
participation so that sustainable development of beach tourism can be
ensured.
The PRA Study
Lack ofproper planning is the hall mark of the development oftourism
destinations in Kerala. The history oftourism development in the state shows
that government inititative has taken place only in selected few destinations.
Most ofthe tourism destination are identified, promoted and popularized by
private initiative, where proper planning seldom exist. The interference of
the Department is warranted only where the available infrastructure
28
facility is inadequate or when the locals start resisting the negative impacts
of mass tourism. It is quiet heart rending to note that in none of the
situation neither the opinion of the locals nor their involvement is taken
into account. Varkala, an emerging destination in Kerala is not an exception
to this. It is rightly obsef\ed that the continued existence of any destination
is ensured by its capacity to operate along ecofriendly socially, eulturally
and economically supportive line. In the beginning participatory techniques
were used in rural settings mainly in agriculture and allied activities. But
today it is increasingly used in all most all fields of activities Irrespective
offLlrai urban settings. The present study highly make use of PRA technique
to identify areas where locals can participate in tourism business.
The key informants
As a prelude to the study we have collected some secondary
information (chapter 2) about the munieipality in general. With the general
information already gathered we approached some key infonnants in Varkala
to probe more details and effect cross checking of what we have already
received. The key imformants include retired personnals, social workers and
a female ward member. The outcome ofthe interview held with the informants
provided the base for further indepth study.
Where do the locals stand ?
Commercial tourism has changed the attitude, approach and perception
of the locals considerably. The locality, once dominated by agricultural
29
labourers is now inhabited by different groups/class who are actively
involved in tourism business. Those who are fortunate enough to possess
land around the cliff and beach get wind fall gain during season by leasing
out land. Hotels and restaurants owners possessing sound infrastructure
facilities try to establish their suprimary and exercise control over tourism.
Enterprising youths in and around Varkala do seasonal business in makeshift
restaurents and remain idle until next reason starts. Households indulge
themselves in providing accomodation to tourist in "local specific paying
guest" facility is also common. Agricultural labourers turned themselves
into brokers, petty traders, hawkers etc. Outsiders concentrated more on
health clubs, massage parlour, ayurveda treatment, handicrafts, souvenirs
and money landing. Restaurents sponsored by foreigners and catering their /
dishes form another sub group in the business. Amidst a11 this, the other
locals live as passive spectators. While this is the visible picture of
present day tourism in V~lrkala, the invisible part ofit is formed by drug
trafficking, prostitution, child labour, illicit trade and what not.
The informants opine that there are two prominant schools ofthought
as far as tourism development in Varkala is concerned. Interestingly both
schools are dominated by locals. The first school is already set for
commercial tourism and is operating on the principle "make hey when sun
shines", This school is dominated by some NRI's and influenciallocals.
They feel that the available infrastructure facility is inadequate and there
is great potential to develop Varkala as an international beach resort. The
30
spas, cliff, cultural heritage and naturopathy are highlighted as comparitive
advantages. They demand more infrastructure faci Iities including star
hotels, swimming pool, water spots, development of helipad and a free
hand to the private sector to elevate Varkala to international level. They
are dead against the practice of providing paying guest facility by the
locals as it exist today.
The second school is more concerned about the posterity and
vehement critic of the type of tourism being developed at present. To
them, today, Varkala is experiencing a 'tourism culture' which is
completely new to the locality. Centering Papanasamc Beach there is a
free play ofdrug trafficki ng, sex racket, brokers, and money lenders. They
do a parallel business which will be highly detrimental to the continued
existence of Varkala as a cultural I philosophical centre. The growing
social and environmen1al menace will ultimately destroy the very
attractions of the destillation. The second school firmly believe that
the growing lethargy among the locals is mainly due to the tourism
business. The entire area will woke up only during season and will
remain idle till next season, spending the earning from tourism. To the
locals, today, tourism business is an opium rather than an engine of
growth. As the role of the locals in ordinary tourism business is
increasingly vanishing, it is feared that tourism in Varkala will be pocketed
by a handful of individuals or groups with vested interest. This school
want are-structuring oftourism activity to make it economically feasible
31
and socially responsible.
The PRA meetings
The PRA team converned a meeting at Varkala in September 1999
which was attended by 25 locals. Incidently most of the participants were
these who were associated with the formation of a co-operative society for
developing and marketing tourism in Varkala. But due to di fference ofopinion
and the control exercised by the so called "big business" in Varkala the
society exist only in paper. The participants were by and large aware of
the tourism potential of Varkala and the possible negative impacts. They
want to use tourism for the socio economic development of the locality.
The meeting that lasted for two hours discussed in detail all most all
aspects oftourism in Varkala. The major conclusions of the meeting are:
1. Locals were not able to get due place in tourism business.
2. There are several areas where locals can actively and effectively
participate.
3. A part of the profit emerging from tourism should be deployed for
the welfare of the society.
4. The present set up is purely profit oriented and give least significance
to socio-cultural and environmental aspects.
The major areas identified for local participation include
accomodation, restaurants, health care travel and tour operation, information
system, environmental is:;ues and prevention of antisocial activities. It is
32
felt that there is lack of co-ordination between the on going peoples plan
programme and the needs of the host community to facilitate tourism.
A judicious blending of the peoples plan programme and the tourism
sector can bring more and long lasting benefit to the locals. The meeting
concluded with a decision to convene a still larger forum of the locals by
incorporating more female members.
The second phase
After ten days we started the second phase ofthe inquiry which was
meant for detailed discussion on the broad area already identified. Thirty
nine members from different walks oflife participated in the meeting. They
include professionals, agriculturists, businessmen, social workers,
representatives of local bodies, youths, aged and housewives. Selected
participants were asked to note down the proceedings of the meeting which
were collected and analysed by the PRA team, later.
An evaluation of the discussions and suggestions on various issues
held in the meeting will throw more light into the need for An Action
Plan for Tourism Development in Varkala with peoples participation.
The broad areas identified for local participation in the first meeting
were placed in the second meeting which was discussed in detail. Let us analyse
each area separately.
33
Accommodation
Though Papanesam attracted pilgrims from time immemorial, there
were no formal arrangmcnts to accommodate visitors. The earlier foreign
visitors shared accommodation in the huts with the locals. Most of them
extended hospitality for no returns, while others accepted what is offered
by tourists. With an increase in the inflow of foreigners more locals came
forward to provide accollllllodation either by renting out a portion of their
house, extensions or out-houses. The area in general witnessed local
specific "paying guest facility". Gradually this trend began to spread to the
interior areas and thus supply of accommodation opened a new source of
income to the locals.
Today, the accommodation sector present a different but mixed
picture. Now rooms in hotels and houses solely eannarked for tourists
are being sold through brokers. In the absence of proper nonns controls
and regulations the sector is maintaining no standards. Complaints
regarding poor facility, high rent and cheating are common. Ordinary
locals who cannot 'catch' tourists are gradually driven out from the field.
The accommodation sector is concentrated to a handfull of people who
make fortune out of it.
The participants fdt that a network of accomodation facilities with
given standards can be provided by the house holds. All rules, regulations
and activities related to accommodation should be made transparent.
34
This in tum will avoid unhealthy competition, domination by big business
and ensure a fair trade in tourism. On the other side a fair dealing can be
ensured to the guest also. More over a self regulating mechanism for
waste disposal will automatically emerge as accommodation is provided
with in the premises of the household. Participants suggest the
implementation of suitable housing projects which can meet the housing
demand of the locals while providing facilities to the tourists. This intum
will improve the general housing standards of the locals and bring home
additional income also. The local interest, and value system will be
protected to a greater extent provided locals are given on upper hand in
the supply and managem~nt of accomodation facilities.
Food and Beverages
It is a common practice that enterprising men manages to get land on
lease and provide food an beverages in make shift restaurants. While
accommodation has a spread effect covering 2-3 sq.kms, restaurants are
concentrated along the c1iffand beach. Foreigners running restaurents and
transport service under binami is also reported. These restaurents cater the
needs and requirements of only foreigners from particular countries and
the locals are made to believe that these foreigners prefer to have their
own food prepared in their native style. As the locals have no objection to
this, 'foreign restaurents' too run simultaneously. There are 38 restaurants
along the cliff during this season, investing RS.2lakhs on an average. Thus
the total investment in Indian restaurants alone is worked out roughly as
35
Rs.76Iakhs. Barring a few, majority are functioning on leased land
where the rent varies from Rs.30000/- to Rs.2 lakhs for a season. The
average rent on land is calculated as Rs.75000/- The total rent collected from
restaurents alone in the cliff area will roughly be Rs.2850000/-. The
opportunity cost of the land is from agriculture which can not bring this
much of fortune to the land owners. Participants feel that this wind fall gain
to the land owners is primarily due to its situational importance and hence
measures have to be tkane to divert a portion of the rent proceeds to the
welfare of the community. As land value and rent have gone up several
times, ordinary locals are helpless either to buy a plot of land or hire
it for business purpose. It is also reported that provision, vegetables, fish,
meat, egs milk etc are mainly brought from outside resulting in the out
flow ofseverallakhs ofrupees. It is pointed out that by implementings suitable
projects through the peoples plan programme, the locals can supply a
sizeable portion of the input requirements of these restaurents. This will
enable the locals to participate indirectly in tourism business. They also
suggest that community restaurents may be started to serve ethnic food and
beverages. This is yet another area where locals can actively participate.
Seasonal restaurents is a fertile area for money landers. Most of the
restaurent owners borrow money either from natives or from foreigners.
Foreign money lenders are guaranteed a timely return of principal amount
with fixed interest once the season is over. Free food and accommodation
are an added advantage to them. Usually the money landers charge exorbitant
36
interest rates which is reHected in prices. Varkala is one ofthe gulfpockets
in Kerala where foreign remittance play a dominant role. The meeting
suggested a meaningful channalisation of foreign remittance to the tourism
sector. This will benefit both the NRIs and the locals.
Handicrafts
Handicrafts and souvenir shops run by nonkeralites are a major
concern for the locals. On enquiry the shop owners report a bad business
always; yet they thrive and come back during the next season too. Most of
them are hailing from Karnataka, Rajasthan, Kashmir and even from Bhutan.
It is alleged that some or the handicraft shops too indulge in antisocial
activities like prostitution, sale of drugs etc. Most of the shop owners are
seasonal business men moving from destination to destination all over the
country and they inject a "tourism culture" of their own in Varkala too.
The locals wonder why, not even a single project is implimented
through the peoples plan programme either for the production or for the
sale ofhandicrafts which are mostly demanded by tourists. A well thought
out project in this direction can create more employment to artisans and
weavers in production sidE' and others in the marketing side. Souvenirs,
curios and other handicrafts together can open potential area for self
employment to the locals. Further, local participation in this area can
contribute much in the direction of curbing antisocial activities.
37
Health and environment
Health and environment are attractive tourism products and at the
same time causalty oftourism development. Besides spas, and naturopathy
centre there is a mushroom growth of Ayurveda health club in Varkala.
Different types of rejuvenating treatments were practiced here. There are
health clubs purely earmarked for gents and ladies. The locals are totally
ignorant about the business in these centres. With out any dispute locals
unanimously agree that nature cure and Ayurveda treatment are acceptable
and beneficial. But they suggest the establishment of permanent health
club systematically run by qualified and trained personnals. Instead ofmaking
it seasonal the health care system should operate round the year where the
natives can also undergo treatment at concessional rates. For this they
suggest a discriminatory rate also. A high degree of transparency in the
working of the health clu bs will definitely increase its acceptance in the
society.
The uncompensated catastrophe that tourism create to environment
is universally acknolwedged today. It is the fate of all most all destination
that neither the tourists nor the tourism business have permanent interest
in the destination. Normally the environment will be neglected. Waste
generated and disposed both by the tourists and the business is a major
environmental issue. So far no systematic method for disposing waste
both degradable and non degradabJe-is in the anvil. Once the season is over
the sea shore virtually become a dumping yard which will automatically
39
Public Relation and Tour Operation
Better public relations playa pivotal role in popularising a destination
among tourists. So far there is no scientific methods to collect tourist
statistics. It is obligatory that tourist should fill the IC' form and submit the
same with the police statlOn. Locals say that the actual member oftourist to
Varkala at any time will be at least three times higher than that of'C' forms
tield. The entire tourism business in Varkala can be linked through a
proper information bureaue where the locals think that they can contribute
much.
They suggest that all tourists to Varkala should be directed only
through the information c~ntre which in turn will issue an identity card. Under
the auspices of the information centre, facility for local conveyance,
arrangements oftravel f01mality, ofa good library etc can be provided. The
information centre can also work as a cultural centre too. The centre can
start short term courses an communication skills in foreign languages and
train youths as guides so that their services can be availed meaningfully
while they remain unemployed. The operation of the information cum
cultural centre may be done with the help ofthe locals. Voluntary service of
the local youth in this area will fetch more results.
Finally, the meeting suggested a re-structuring of the peoples plan
programme to incorporate more meaninful projects for sustainable tourism
development To them participation is seen more in theory than in practice
40
in the planning programme. A proper co-ordination of various tourism
business activity will ensure a continuous flow of income to the locality.
They demand a top prioriety for the locals in tourism business. I f only they
have a 'say' in tourism, responsible tourism can be promoted.
41
CHAPTER IV
CONCl,USION
The increasing awareness on the negative impacts of tourism has
fostered the search for alternatives all over the world. Today different types
oftourism are in the anvil preaching ethos ofsustainability. But experience
has shown that the industry is serving old vine in new bottle. Unless and until
the stake holders have some control in the operation ofthe industry the issue
of sustainability will remain only in paper. Participatory approach is
reckoned as one of the feasible solutions to promote sustainable
development. Since most of the tourism products are inseparable from the
destination, the locals should be given a due place and priority in tourism
development. Most of the natural and cultural attractions are highly fragile
that unregulated growth of tourism can bring more harm than good to the
society. Hence while framing policies for tourism development it is highly
imparative to identify potential areas and ensure the participation of the
locals so that they will operate as guide and guardian of future development
of the destination.
In the backdrop of the ongoing peoples plan programme, Kerala
provide a fertile ground for strengthening Peoples Action for Tourism
Development. The study conducted at Varkala, keeping this end in view,
revealed that the people by and large are for participatory action in the
tourism sector. They have identified accomodation, food and beverages,
42
health, travel tour operation, infonnation dissimination control ofantisocial
activities etc as broad areas where the locals can participate. A voluntary
agency committed to the socio-economic development of the destination
may be formed primarily with the help ofthe youth and the retired personals.
They strongly feel that such an agency must be free from politics and profit
orientation. Under the auspecies ofthe agency a net work oftourism business , '"
activities can be generated where quality, standards and fair tried will be
ensured. Unhealthy competition and illegal activities will be replaced by
'community rules' which is binding to all. All tourist to Varkala and the entire
tourism industry will be linked to the agency which in turn is answerable to
the guest as well as the host for any misdeeds. The meeting held with the
locals strongly advocate to plough back a portion of the profit from tourism
for the welfare of the community. By ensuring free or concessional health
care system, drinking water, electricity facility, kinder garden, good biliary,
machinary for waste management etc, it is felt that the welfare of the locals
can be improved. Besides a judicious blending oftourism needs with that of
the peoples plan programme can go a long way in creating employment and
income to rural people at the destination. Tourism should not be a main
activity, but a supplementary one. Varkala has physical and financial resources,
better quality human resource, enterprising, co-operative and dedicated
citizens who are willing to conserve the nat'\lre ,culture and promote the well ,,'/
being of the society. What they lack is a co-ordinated effort to cherish this
goal. People Action is the right alternative.
43
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