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T h e m issio n o f K ao C h em icals Eu ro p e, in lin e w ith th e m issio n
o f K ao Jap an , co n sists o f fu lfillin g m arket req u irem en ts a n d
custom er expectation s by m ean s of the develop m en t, p rod uction
an d m arketing of p rodu cts, ach ievin g a reaso n ab le level of profit
an d co n stan tly im p ro vin g its o w n co m p etitive p o sitio n an d
con tribu ting to the develop m ent of the p eop le w ho m ake up the
co m p an y, w ith in a fram ew o rk of fu ll resp ect fo r th e so cial an d
n atu ral en viro n m en t.
K a o ' s G e n e r a l M i s s i o n S t a t e m e n t
BRINGING NEW VALUE
TO CHEMICALS
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Kao Corporation is a Japanese com pany with m ore than a century of
experience in the cosm etics and detergents m arket, having now adays m ore
than 30 affiliates w orldw ide.
Kao has been present in the surfactants m arket in Europe for m ore than 35
years now. In the year 2000 , at the gateway to the new m illennium , Kao's
Chem ical D ivision united their European production centres in a new head
office, Kao C hem icals Europe, in B arcelona, Spain.
Kao C hem icals Europe has been created to unite the efforts of the different
centres, in order to gain efficiency and strength in a m arket that is becom ing
m ore and m ore dem anding and com petitive.
W ith years of experience and the m ost advanced technology, Kao produces
and com m ercialises in Europe m ore than 400 different surfactants, which
can be applied in m any different fields.
In the developm ent and design stage, as w ell as in the m anufacturing
process of these surfactants, Kao is com m itted to health, safety and the
environm ent. In its corporate activities Kao continuously im proves and
im plem ents m easures that m inim ise the im pact on the environm ent and
ensure the safety and the health of its em ployees and the com m unity. Kao
is com m itted to Responsible Care.
The aim of this review is to describe the m ost relevant fam ilies of surfactants
com m ercialised by Kao Ch em icals Europe, and to point out the benefits
and advantages of each one considering their properties and final applications.
See below an overview of the interconnecting process steps that Kao uses
to produce these surfactants.
Introduct ion
Propoxylation
Ethoxylation
Esterification
Amidation
Glycerides
Fatty Acids
Fatty Alcohols
Fatty Amines
ANIONIC
NON-IONIC
CATIONIC
AMPHOTERIC
BLENDS
Oxidation
Sulfatation
Carboxylation
Quaternisation
Sulfonation
Blending
Table of Contents
TRADEMARK
Introduct ion 3
Main Surfactants :
EMAL (Sulfated derivatives) 4
ALFANOX (Sulfonated derivatives) 4
Co-Surfactants :
SUCC IDET (Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate) 5
AKYPO (Ether Carboxylat e derivat ives) 6
O XIDET (Amine Oxides) 9
BETADET (Betaines) 10
L EV E N O L (Glyceri ne Ester derivatives) 13
Thickeners:
AM IDET (Amide derivatives) 16
Condit ioners:
Q U A R TA M IN (Ammonium Chlori de Quats) 18
A M ID E T APA22 (Amido Amine) 18
T E TR A N Y L (TEA Esterquats) 18
K A L C O L (Fatty Alcohols) 21
Pearlizing Agents:
D A N O X (EGDS blends) 22
AKYPO SAL(EGDS blends) 22
Moistur izers:
LEVENO L (Glycerine Ester derivatives) 24
EM A N O N (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 24
Solubi lizers - Emulsi f iers
AKYPO S O F T(Ether Carboxylat e derivat ives) 26
AKYPO R LM (Ether Carboxylic acids) 26
K A O P A N (Sorbitan derivatives) 27
FIN DET (Fatty Alcohol Ethoxylates) 27
APPLICATION
SHAMPOO
N orm al 29
Baby - Children 30
Anti-D andruff 31
2 in 1 32
H air G loss 34
HAIR CONDITIONER
N orm al - M ask 35
Transparent 38
Cold Process 38
Leave-on 39
BODY CLEANSERS
H and Liquid Soap 40
Face Cleanser 41
D erm oConcept 42
M oisturizing 44
SLES-Free 45
OTHERS
Body Care 46
Bath O il 47
W et W ipes 48
Shaving Foam 48
Hair Coloring - Temporary 49
Hair Coloring - Perm anent 50
CATEGORY
ANIONIC
CATIONIC
AMPHOTERIC
NON- IONIC
BLENDS
SPECIALITIES
2 3
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An ionic surfactants are usually used as m ain surfactants in rinse-off products and
cleansers for personal hygiene, due to their relatively high effectiveness-cost ratio and
their unbeatable properties as foam ing agents. Am ong this range, sodium laureth
sulfate is the m ost used w orldw ide, due to its foam ing capacity and its ability to be
thickened even at low concentration.
Kao Chem icals Europe is one of the biggest producers of this surfactant worldw ide,
selling it under the trade nam e of EM AL 270D . This product achieves the highest
standards of quality, due to the com bination of natural raw m aterials, technology and
the experience conferred by m ore than 30 years of constant im provem ent in production.
It is very difficult to overcom e the application properties of the above m entioned surfactant,
but in som e especial cases, due to m arketing requirem ents, other m inor surfactants can
replace it and be used as m ain surfactant in rinse-off products. These are alkyl sulfates
(EM AL 30E, EM AL 40TE ) or- olefin sulfonates (ALFAN O X 46).
Another typical application of anionic surfactants is toothpaste. M any, though not all,
toothpastes contain sodium lauryl sulfate, in solid form , as foam ing agent. This product
is sold by Kao Chem icals Europe under trade nam es of EM AL 10N , EM AL 10 P-H D
and EM AL 10 G . They aid in rubbing dental plaque and food off of the teeth, they can
elim inate or m ask undesirable breath odours, and they can deliver active ingredients
such as fluoride to prevent tooth and gum disease.
E M A L / A L F A N O X
PROPERTIES
Foaming Power
Emulsifying Effect
Cleansing Effect
MAINAPPLICATION
M a i n s u r f a c t a n t s
600
400
200
0EMAL30E ALFANOX46 SUCCIDETNESEMAL40TE EMAL270D
Irritant II
500 < ZV < 600
Irritant I
400 < ZV < 500
Moderately
Irritant
200 < ZV < 400
Non Irritant
ZV < 200
Ze i n Va l u e (mg N / 100 mL )
AKYPOSOFT100 BVC
AKYPOFOAMRL 40
S K I N I R R I T A T I O N P O T E N T I A L : Z e i n T e s t 1% d r y ma t t e r so l u t i o n
ANIONICSURFACTANTS
4 5
A N I O N I C S U R F A C T A N T S R a n g e
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance % Active
at 20C Matter
ALFANOX 46 68439-57-6 Sodium C14-16O lefin Sulfonate Liquid 38
EMAL 10N 73296-89-6 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate N eedles 95 m in.
EMAL 10P-HD 73296-89-6 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Pow der 95 m in.
EMAL 10G 73296-89-6 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate G ranules 95 m in.
EMAL 30E 73296-89-6 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Liquid 30
EMAL 40TE 90583-18-9 TEA Lauryl Sulfate Liquid 40
EMAL 270D or
EMAL 270E68585-34-2 Sodium Laureth Sulfate Paste 70
EMAL 227E or
EMAL 228D68585-34-2 Sodium Laureth Sulfate Liquid 27
SUCCIDET NES or
SUCCIDET S 3 039354-45-5 Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Liquid 31
S U C C I D E T
The disodium laureth sulfosuccinate is an anionic surfactant which can be u sed
as m ain surfactant, altho ugh it is typically used as co -surfactant in cosm etic
cleansers, m ainly due to its m ildness and the capacity to reduce the skin and eye
irritation potential of anionic surfactants. Kao produces it under the trade nam e
of SUC CID ET .
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C o - s u r f a c t a n t s
A K Y P O
A different type of anionic surfactants is the ether carboxylic derivatives. AK YP O is
a tradem ark used to den om inate the alkyl ether carboxylic acids and their salts.
The products included in the range d iffer from each other in the degree of ethoxylation
and in the alkyl chain length. For cosm etic applications vegetable origin is in favour,
the alkyl chain being traditionally based on coconut (C12/14) becau se of the high
foam ing properties that are required in this application field. D ifferent ethoylation
degrees are available am ong the range of AKYPO .
The nam e of AKYPO RLM is used for the ether carboxylic derivatives in con centrated
acid form . AK YPO SO FT is used for the n eutralised form of these surfactants. The
abbreviation N Vat the end ind icates a sod ium salt, w hile the abbreviation BVC
indicates a high concentrated sodium salt alkyl ether carboxylate.
In the early 1970s the go od com patibility of alkyl ether carboxylates, used as co-
surfactants in sham poos, with all kind of surfactants including cationic type w as
described in the literature. A n explanation for this un usu al behaviour for anionic
surfactants is the form ation of a five-m em bered ring after deprotonation. Because
of this structure, alkyl ether carboxylates are com bining the prop erties of anionic and
no n-ionic surfactants an d are therefore called cryptoanionic.
The ethercarboxylic d erivatives w ith C 12/14 alkyl chain, from natural sources, are
characterised by their m ildness, their foam ing and their solubilizing ben efits, therefore
they are used as co-surfactants in cosm etic rinse-off products.
PROPERTIES
Mildness
Solubilizing Effect
Foam Stabilizing Effect
Compatibility
Cryptoanionic Character
CHEMICAL
STRUCTURE R-(OCH2CH2)n-OCH2-C
Na(+)
O
O(-)
6 7
MAINAPPLICATION
The newly developed alkyl ether carboxylate derivative is AK YP O FO AM RL 40. This
product m eets the m arket requirem ents of a good surfactant: high concen trated,
preservative free, m ildness, positive influen ce o n the viscosity and rapid foam ing
w ith good lathering. This relevant influen ce on the foam is even m ore outstand ing
when AKYPO FO AM RL 40 is com bined w ith SLES and am photeric surfactants.
M I O I - V a l u e
1% a.m. solution
CAPB1 AKYPORLM 45 AKYPOR LM 10 0 De cy l Gl uc os id e
M I L D N E S S : E y e s I r r i t a t i o n P o t e n t i a l R B C T e s t
30
25
20
15
10
5
0100 80 60 40 20 0
100% An ion ic Rat io An ionic / Co-Surfact an t % 100% Co-sur fact an t
F o a m V o l u m e ( m L )1% a.m. solution
CAPB 1 CAMA 1 Cocamide DEA SLES 1 AKYPOFOAM RL 40
F O A M I N G S P E E D
300
250
200
150
100
50
0
50 100 150 200 250 300 350 400 450 tim e (sec)
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y ( L V T , 2 0 C , c P s )
15% a.m.; rat io SLES/ Co-surfactant 3/ 1
SLES SLES/AKYPOFOAM RL 40
T H I C K E N I N G E F F E C T
100000
10000
1000
1000.0 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0
(1) CAPB: Cocamidopropy l Betaine
CAMA: Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
SLES: Sodium Laureth Sulf ate
% NaCl
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A K Y P O S OF T R a n g e :
Trademark CAS Number INCI Name R nA pp ea ra nc e % A c ti ve
at 20C Matter
AKYPO FOAM RL 40 33939-64-9 Sodium Laureth-5 Carboxylate C12 4 Paste 60
AKYPO SOFT 45 NV 33939-64-9 Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate C12-14 5 Liquid 22
AKYPO SOFT 100 NV 33939-64-9 Sodium Laureth-11 Carboxylate C12-14 10 Liquid 22
AKYPO SOFT 70 BVC 33939-64-9 Sodium Laureth-8 Carboxylate C12-14 7 Paste 70
AKYPO SOFT 100 BVC 33939-64-9 Sodium Laureth-11 Carboxylate C12-14 10 Liquid 70
0.1% a.m .; 25C; 15GH; pH = 6 .5; t =30 sec.F O A M V O L U M E : R o s s M i l e s T e s t
Foam Vo l ume (mL )
Rat io SLES(1) / CAMA (1)/ AKYPOFOAM RL 40
3/0/1 3/1/0 3/0.75/0.25 3/0.5/0.5
200
180
160
140
120
100
80
60
40
200
A K Y P O R LM R a n g e :
Trademark CAS Number INCI Name R nA pp ea ra nc e % A c ti ve
at 20C Matter
AKYPO RLM 45 CA 27306-90-7 Laureth-6 Carboxylic Acid C12-14 4.5 Liquid 92
AKYPO RLM 45 N 27306-90-7 Sodium Laureth-6 Carboxylate C12-14 4.5 Paste 82
AKYPO RLM 70 2730 6-90 -7 Laureth-8 C arboxylic A cid C 12-14 7 Liquid 90
AKYPO RLM 100 27306-90-7 Laureth-11 Carboxylic Acid C12-14 10 Liquid 90
Am ine oxides have been well know n to surfactant chem ists for decades. These surfactants are
characterised by their versatility.
Am ine oxides are obtained by a reaction of a tertiary am ine w ith hydrogen peroxide. The sem i-
polar bond between the nitrogen and the oxygen is responsible for m uch of the uniqueness an d
functionality of am ine oxides.
Am ine oxides are non-ionic, but when the pH is low ered, the sem i-polar linkage becom es stronger and
the m olecule assum es a weak positive charge, becom ing a cationic surfactant with conditioning properties.
The Kao Chem icals Europe 's tradem ark for am ine oxides is O XIDET .
They are used as co-surfactants in foam ing cleansers, like sham poos or body gels. Com pared to typical
surfactants used in detergents like CAPB or cocam ide D EA, O XIDET L-75 provides h igher foam .
Mixt ures SLES / Co-surfactant (8.5/1.5, total a.m .: 10%)
20C; 20H F; 1% w/ v solu ti on
F O A M I N G A B I L I T Y : R o s s M i l e s T e s t
Foam Vo l ume (mL )
CAPB OXIDETL-75
250
200
150
100
50
0
5 sec. 5 min.
O X I D E T R a n g e :
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameA pp ea ra nc e % A ct iv e
Rat 20C Matter
OXIDET DM-20 1643-20-5 Lauram ine O xide Liquid 30 C12
OXIDET DMCLD 61788-90-7 Cocam ine O xide Liquid 30 Coconut
OXIDET L-75 68155-09-9 Cocamidopropylam ine Oxide Liquid 30 R'-CO: Coconut
8 9
MAINAPPLICATION
O X I D E T O X I D E T A K Y P O
PROPERTIES
Foam Booster
Thickener
Mild Surfactant
Emulsifier
OXIDETDM type OXIDETL-75
CH3
CH3
I
IR-N O
CH3
CH3
I
IR-CO-NH-(CH2)3-N O
CHEMICAL
STRUCTURE
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B E T A D E T
Alm ost since their introduction on the m arket, am photeric surfactants have been
used in personal care products.
It is w ell know n that betaines show, in general m ildness, good pH stability, and
hard w ater tolerance. They increase the viscosity when com bined w ith anionic
surfactants, and act as foam boosters.
Kao Chem icals Europe's tradem ark for this group of surfactants is BETAD ET .
Cocam idopropyl betaine (CAP B) is by far the m ost used Betaine, not only due to
the low cost but also to its effectiveness.
PROPERTIES
Skin Compatible
Foam Booster
Thickening Agent
Detoxification Effect
Hard Water Tolerance
B r o o k f i e l d V i s c o s i t y ( 2 0 C , c P s )
10% a.m. SLES / 3% a.m.Co-surfactantT H I C KE N I N G E F F E C T
1000000
100000
10000
1000
100
100.0 1.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0
CAPB BETADET SHR BETADET S-20 0% Co-surfactant
% N a C l
Besides the CAPB (BETAD ET H R and BETADET H R-50K), sulfobetaines or hydroxysultaines m ust be pointed out. H ydroxysultaines
are trialkyl am m onium com pounds sim ilar to alkylbetaines but having an alkylsulfonate group. These surfactants present added
advantages com pared to standard CA BP. Kao Chem icals Europe's tradem arks are BETA D ET S-20 and BETAD ET SHR.
Alm ost since their introdu ction on the m arket, am pho teric surfactants have been used in personal care products.
Thickeningimprovement
Foam booster
Vegetableand mineral raw
materials
Excellent stability atextreme pH and
cold temperatures
Preservative freeLime soap
dispersing agent
Compatible with Anionic, Cationic andNon-ionic surfactants
Very mild co-surfactants, which show detoxifying properties andespecially suitable for non-irritating and baby products
BETADETSH R&
BETADETS-20
10% a.m. SLES + 3% a.m . Co-surfactant
0.1% a. m. sol ut ion ; 25C ; 200 ppm Ca2+/ M g2+, 2/1
F OAM QUAL ITY : Bub b l in g M ethod
Dens i t y ( g /m L )
SLES CAPB BETADETS-20 BETADETSHR BETADETTHC-2
6.6
6.4
6.2
6.0
5.8
5.6
5.4
5.2
5.0
B E T A D E T R a n g e :
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance % Active
at 20C Matter
BETADET HR 61789-40-0 Cocam idopropyl Betaine Liquid 30
BETADET HR-50K 61789-40-0 Cocam idopropyl Betaine Liquid 40
BETADET S-20 13197-76-7 Lauryl H ydroxysultaine Liquid 38
BETADET SHR 68139-30-0 Cocam idopropyl Hydroxysultaine Liquid 44
BETADET THC-2 68650-39-5 Disodium Cocoam phodiacetate Viscous Liquid 40
10 11
CHEMICAL
STRUCTURE
CH3
CH3
R-N+-CH2-CH-CH2SO3-
OH
I
I I
R: C 12
CH3
CH3
R-CO-NH-(CH2)3-N+-CH2-CH-CH2SO3-
OH
I
I I
R-CO= Hydrogenated Coconut
BETADETS-20BETADETSHR
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B E T A D E T
Foam Stabili ty in the presence of sebum; 10% a.m. SLES + 3% a.m. Co-surfactant
0.1% a.m. soluti on; 40C; 200 ppm Ca2+/ Mg2+, 2/1; 0.5% Sebum
F O A M V O L U M E : " F o a m i n g R e v e r s e S t i r r i n g M e t h o d "
200
180
160
140
120
100
80
60
40
20
0SLES (0.1%) CAPB BETADETS-20 BETADETSHR APG 1
Foam Vo lume (mL) 30 sec. 1 min. 3 min. 5 min.
12 13
MAINAPPLICATION
PROPERTIES
Ecological-No LabellingNeeded
No R or S Sentences
Non-irritant for the Skin
Non-irritant for the Eyes
Vegetable Origin
Preservative Free
APPLICATION
Body Cleansers
Liquid Hand Soaps
Shampoos
Facial Cleansers
Skin Care
LEVENOL H&B
Foam Booster
Thickener
Skin Emollient
N on-ionic surfactants have been used by the cosm etic industry for m any years and
for m any different applications. A fundam ental requirem ent for any cosm etic produ ct
is the need for high skin com patibility under norm al conditions of use. The addition
of a secondary surfactant in a cosm etic form ula to im prove the physico-chem ical and
toxicological properties of the m ain surfactant, as w ell as its final perform ance, is
alm ost an obligation. LEVEN O L , registered trade nam e of KAO for a new range of
non-ionic surfactants, m eet these dem and s.
Chem ically, LEVEN O L is a glycerine po lyoxyethylene ester. The different degrees of
ethoxylation and esterification provide a w ide range of products w ith m any different
application properties regarding foam ing and thickening ability, solubilization and
em ulsifying capability and m oisturising effect.
The LEVENO L range is characterised by its ecological and toxicological advantages
w hen com pared w ith other non-ionic surfactants. The surfactants included in the
LEVENO L range don't need any risk and safety phrase warnings on its label, even
at 100% concentration. This fact m akes them very suitable for environm entally friend ly
cosm etics, which therefore can achieve better classification according to the European
D irective o f Preparations (1999 /45/EC).
LEVENO L prod ucts are also included in the p ositive list of Bra M iljval (good
environm ental choice) in the N ordic cou ntries.
CHEMICAL STRUCTURE
CH2O(CH2CH2O)xRICHO(CH2CH2O)yR
ICH2O(CH2CH2O)zR
R = H or R'-CO(Coconut chain)x+y+z=2
Am ong all the surfactants included in the LEVEN O L range, the o ne w hich is
recom m ended as co-surfactant is LEVEN O L H & B .
LEVENO L H & B is a m ultifunctional raw m aterial for toiletries perform ing as a thickener,
foam booster, skin an d hair m oisturizer and also em ollient. It perform s as detoxifying
agent when com bined w ith anionic surfactants.
Besides these properties as co-surfactant in cleansers it can be also used as em ollient
and em ulsifier in leave-on or any skin care products.
LEVENO L C-201 is a good solubilizer for oils, perfum es, fragrances and som e silicones.
L E V E N O L
MAINAPPLICATION
Z e i n Va l u es (mg N / mL )
M I LDN ES S : S k i n I r r i t a t i o n P o t en t i a l " Z e i n T es t "
800
700
600
500
400
300
200
100
00 2 4 6 8 10 12
SDS (1) CAPB BETADET SHR BETADET S-20
Concentration (% dry matter)
Irritant II I
ZV > 600
Irritant II
500 < ZV < 600
Irritant I
400 < ZV < 500
Moderately Irritant
200 < ZV < 400
Non Irritant
ZV < 200
(1) APG: Decyl Glucos ide
SDS: Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate
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L E V E N O L R a n g e
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance % Active Properties
at 20C Matter & Application
LEVENOLH&B 68201-46-7 Glycereth-2 Cocoate Liquid 100G ood Foam ing & Thickening
Skin Em ollient
LEVENOLC-301 68201-46-7 Glycereth-7 Cocoate Liquid 100M edium Foam ing
& T hickening
LEVENOLC-201 68201-46-7 Glycereth-17 Cocoate Liquid 100 Solubilizing Effect
SLES 10% a.m.
0.8% a.m . Solu t i on; 40 C; 20HF; 1% Spangl er Soi l
F O A M V O L U M E : " F o a m i n g R e v e r s e S t i r r i n g M e t h o d "
100
80
60
40
20
0
0.5 1.0 3.0 5.0
Foam Vo l ume (mL )
LEVENOLH&B Cocamide DEA Decyl Glucoside
L E V E N O L
20C ; 20H F
FO A MIN G Q U A LIT Y: B u bb l i ng Me t h o d
Dens i t y ( g /m L )
SLES ( 10% a .m. ) +2% a. m. LEVENOLH &B +2% a.m. Decyl Glucoside
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
0
T ime t o f o rm 2L o f f o am (m i n . )
t ime (m in . )
Broo kf i eld Vi scosi ty ( LVT, 20C, cPs)
10% a.m. SLES / 2% a.m. Co-surfactantT H I C K E N I N G E F F E C T
100000
10000
1000
1001.0 2.0 3.0 4.0 5.0 6.0 7.0
LEVENOL H&B Decy l Glucoside Cocam ide DEA S LES (1 0% a .m. )
% NaC l
2% a.m . SLES + 2% a.m. Co-sur f ac t an t ; 48 hours
% vs SLS i r r i t a t i on leve l
S K I N I R R I T A T I O N P O T E N T I A L : P a t c h T e s t
I r r i t a t i o n I n de x (% )
SLS SLES + Cocamide DEA + Decyl Glucoside + LEVENOLH&B WATER(reference)
100
80
60
40
20
0
14 15
3.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0
t ime (m in . )
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AMIDET N
R-CO-NH-(CH2CH2O)nH
T h i c k e n e r s
A M I D E T
The Kao C hem icals Europe's tradem ark for alkano lam ides an d their derivatives is
AM IDET .
In the cosm etic field, alkanolam ides are w ell known for their ability to greatly enh ance
the viscosity of aqueous so dium alkyl sulfate and alkyl ether sulfate solutions.
Alkanolam ides are also characterized by their excellent foam boosting and stabilizing
properties.
Cocam ide DEA (AM IDET B -112) has been the m ost used alkanolam ide for years,
as viscosity enh ancing agent and foam boo ster, due to its liquid appearance and its
goo d p rice-perform ance ratio.
Co ncerns over the safety of secondary alkanolam ides h ave led to a steady decline on
their use and new alternatives have been introduced in the m arket using D EA -free
concept. Cocam ide M EA (AM ID ET A-111-P) is one of the alternatives in spite of its
solid appearance and high m elting p oint.
In Kao Chem icals Europe range there are also different types o f ethoxylated
m onoethanolam ides, based o n different alkyl chain and ethoxylation degree, w hich
are used in a variety of applications as em ulsifiers and solubilizers.
The m ost uniquesurfactant that Kao Ch em icals Eu rope produces is AM ID ET N .
This product is based on rapeseed o il, a vegetable oil w ith high con tent of C18
un saturated fatty acid an d is therefore liquid.
AM IDET N is highly concentrated with strong solubilizing and em ulsifying properties,
especially for silicone derivatives, perfum es and vegetable oils. Co m pared to cocam ideD EA , it is a better thickener and foam booster, being also w ash active.
An other alkanolam ide d erivative is AM ID ET A 15, which is a m odified ether carboxylic
acid. Because its unbeatable thickening effect it becom es a very good gelling agent
in h air coloration products. M oreover it also im proves the co lour up-take and the
levelling effect on the h air surface.
AMIDET A 15
R-O-(CH2CH2O)n-CH2-CO-NH-CH2CH2OH
A M I D E T R a n g e :
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance % Dry
at 20C Matter
AMIDET A-111-P 68140-00-1 Cocam ide M EA Pellets 100
AMIDET B-112 68603-42-9 Cocam ide D EA Liquid 100
AMIDET N 85536-23-8 PEG -4 Rapeseedam ide Liquid 95
AMIDET A 15 10 7628-0 4-6 Trideceth-2 C arboxam ide M EA Liquid 95
AMIDET A/17 61791-08-0 PEG -5 Cocam ide Liquid 100
AMIDET A/26 61791-08-0 PEG -14 Cocam ide Liquid 100
16 17
MAINAPPLICATION
Broo kfi eld Vi scosit y (LVT, 20C, cPs)
8.5% a.m. SLES + 1.5% Non-Ioni cT H I C K E N I N G E F F E C T
100000
10000
1000
1002.0 2.5 3.0 3.5 4.0 4.5 5.0 5.5 6.0 6.5 % NaCl
AMIDET N Cocamide DEA 0% thickener
AMIDET N
Thickener
Foam Booster
Solubilizer
Emulsifier
Mildness
AMIDET A 15
Hair Dyes Application
Levelling Agent
Gelling effect
Colour Up-take
PROPERTIES
CHEMICALSTRUCTURE
R-CO: rapeseed oil n=3 R-CO: C13/C15 n=1.5
AMIDETN vs Cocamide DEA
0.1% a.m . ; rat io SLES / N on-I onic , 3/ 1; 37C ; 15GH ;
F OA M V OL UME : R o ss Mi l es Tes t
Foam Volume (mL)
t im e (m i n . ) 0 5 10 15
250
200
150
100
50
0
AMIDET N Cocamide DEA
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C o n d i t i o n e r s
Q U A R T A M I N / T E T R A N Y L / A M I D E T
H air con dition ers are used to provide a variety of benefits to hair: they redu ce the
com bing force, enhance the gloss, confer sm oothn ess and anti-static prop erties an d
they im prove the m anageability of the hair.
The ability of the cation ic com poun ds to provide co nd itioning prop erties to hair is du e
both to the hyd roph obic nature of the alkyl chain as w ell as to the cation ic charge of
the p olar head.
Particularly w ell proven are cationic surfactants having a trim ethyl am m onium group .
Am on g these products, cetrim onium chloride (C TAC), containing a cetyl alkyl chain
(C16), is one of the m ost widely used. In K ao C hem icals Europe this produ ct com es in
three different concentrations, Q U AR TAM IN 60L at 50% , Q UA RTAM IN 60W 30 at
30% and QU ARTAMIN 60W 25 at 25% .
A sim ilar structure is that of behentrim on ium chloride (B TA C), w here the alkyl fatty
chain consists prim arily of a behen ic radical (C22). This com pou nd has been u sed m ore
and m ore over the last years, due to the excellent perform ance associated to the very
long alkyl chain. Kao C hem icals Europe p roduces the behen trim onium chloride un der
the trade nam e of Q U ARTAM IN AB and a m ixture w ith cetearyl alcoh ol, w hich is
QU ARTAM IN AB K. This concen trated pre-m ix for hair rinses application com es w ithout
any kind o f solvent.
It is w ell know n that m ono alkyl com pounds p resent lim itations regarding to their eco-
toxicological properties. Kao Chem icals Europ e p roduces d ifferent en vironm entally
friend ly products, w hich are readily biodegradab le an d show also g ood properties on
aquatic toxicity.
Based on the long experience in do m estic softeners, Kao developed a special cosm etic
grade TEA -esterquat, based on oleic alkyl chain. This is TE TR AN YL CO -40.
A d ifferent esterquat produced by Kao Ch em icals Europe is based on C22 alkyl chain
and it is com m ercialised as a pure cationic surfactant, Q U AR TAM IN BTC 131, as w ell
as blended w ith cetyl alcoho l as a pre-m ix. This on e en ables the produ ction of cream
rinses just by dilution at 40C.
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance Active Matter
Solventa t 2 0 C ( Ca ti on ic , % )
QUARTAMIN60W25 112-02-7 Cetrim onium Chloride Liquid 25% W ater
QUARTAMIN60W30 112-02-7 Cetrim onium Chloride Liquid 30% W ater
QUARTAMIN60L 112-02-7 Cetrim onium Chloride Liquid 50%W ater
IPA
QUARTAMINTH-V 6 80 02-6 2-0 S teartrim o niu m C hlo ride Liqu id 50 %W ater
IPA
QUARTAMINAB 68607-24-9 Behentrim onium Chloride Pellets 85% IPA
QUARTAMINABK68607-24-9 + Behentrim onium Chloride
Pellets 35% N one67762-27-0 + Cetearyl Alcohol
QUARTAMINBTC 131 69537-38-8Behenoyl PG -Trim onium
Pasty 70%W ater
Chloride H exylene G lycol
QUARTAMINBTC 131 VC69537-38-8 Behenoyl PG-Trim onium
Pasty 30%W ater
36653-82-4 Chloride + Cetyl Alcohol H exylene G lycol
TETRANYL
CO-409409 5-35-9
D ioleoylethylLiquid 80% D PG
H ydroxyethylm onium M ethosulfate
AMIDETAPA22 60 270 -33-9 B ehenam idopropyl D im e thylam ine Pellets 10 0% N o ne
18 19
MAIN
APPLICATION
C A T I O N I C S U R F A C T A N T S R a n g e :
Ano ther class of pseudo-cation icsare am idoam ine d erivatives, which in acidic m edia present a net cationic charge and
perform as a cationic surfactant. AM ID ET AP A22, a C22 am idoam ine presents also goo d results on en vironm ental aspects
and also on effectiveness on com bing force and anti-static prop erties.
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D A N O X / A K Y P O S A L
P e a r l i z i n g A g e n t s
D A N O X / A K Y P O S A L
Im age and appearance have always been very im portant and for cosm etic products even
m ore so.
Pearling agents are w idely used in cleansing cosm etic products to im prove their appearance.
By incorporating them a w hite product w ith a high shiny and brilliant app earance is
obtained.
The pearling effect gives an appearance of richness and luxury, which m akes cosm etic
products m ore attractive to consum ers. O ther reasons to use pearling agents is to hide
a hazy or slightly opaque appearance produced by the incorporation of poo rly soluble
additives.
D evelopm ent of pearling agents concentrates (PA C) is com plex and their final com position
is usually a result of a long R & D investigation and optim isation of the crystallisation
process.
M ainly, all the pearlescent concentrates found in the m arket are based on ethylene glycol
distearate (EG D S) and fatty am ides. The use of fatty am ides helps the form ation of crystals
of EG D S an d im proves the n acreous ap pearance. Recently, fatty am ides have been
abandoned due to increasing sensitivity in the m arket, and there is a trend towards m ilder
and m ore innocuous products.
Follow ing European trends in pearling agents, Kao Chem icals Europe developed D AN O X
BF-22 w ithou t alkanolam ides; the p reservative w as elim inated in D AN O X P-15 and our
m ost recent developm ent D AN O X PL-10, does not contain am ides, is preservative free,
highly concentrated and very m ild to the skin and eyes, m aintaining an excellent perform ance.Furtherm ore ingredients of the D AN O X PL-10 im prove skin and hair condition b y
increasing m oisture content.
Pearling agents concentrates (PAC) are usually added to the surfactant solution at the
end of the produ ction process at room tem perature, avoiding heating of the total solution
and the controlled crystallisation process. They save tim e and energy. Their com m on use
percentage is between 2 and 10% .
Am ong the range of Kao Chem icals Europe, AK YPO SAL 2010 S and DAN O X PAC-T are
very effective pearling agents with excellent price-perform ance ratio. Both products are based
on Cocam ide DEA. DA N O X P-15 is a very effective pearling additive, which can be used at
a very low percentage; it is based on Cocam ide M EA. D AN O X BF-22 is based on am photeric
and non-ionic surfactants therefore it is com patible with any type of surfactants. It is a very
effective pearling additive. It gives a fine silky gloss effect. Finally, D AN O X PL -10 is a new
pearling agent developed in accordance to the new m arket trends.
PROPERTIES
Pearling Effect
APPLICATION
P A C R a n g e
Trademark INCI Name % Active Matter
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
AKYPO SAL 2010 S Cocam ide DEA 36
G lycol D istearate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
DANOX
PAC-TCocam ide DEA 36
G lycol D istearate
Cocam idopropyl Betaine
DANOX BF-22 Laureth-4 44
G lycol D istearate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
DANOX P-15 Cocam ide M EA 40
G lycol D istearate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
DANOX PL-10 G lycereth-2 Cocoate 52
G lycol D istearate
22 23
MAIN
APPLICATION
PAC as it is 3% PAC in a pink coloured water solution
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M o i s t u r i z e r s
L E V E N O L / E M A N O N
Ingredients providing care ben efits for skin and hair in person al cleansing p rodu cts are
becom ing increasingly im portant. Form ulators of cosm etic products like to use com pon ents
that can provide better sensorial characteristics to these final clean sers. To m aintain the
right balance betw een em ollients and the surfactant base is im portant to achieve optim al
clean sing and lathering prop erties in rinse-off produ cts. In gen eral em ollients are used to
soften the skin.
The m ost used w ater soluble em ollient applied in hair and body sham poo s is the well-know n
ester, PEG -7 glyceryl cocoate, w hich K ao C hem icals Europe produces under the trade n am e
of EM ANO N H E.
An other w ater-soluble o il is P EG -6 caprylic/capric g lycerides, LEV EN O L N -242, wh ich is
used in bath prod ucts as re-greasing agen t, im parting a long-lasting skin feeling.
Besides the properties m entioned before of LEVEN O L H & B as co -surfactant, this non -
ionic surfactant also presents very nice properties regarding skin care. Co con ut oil has been
w idely used in co sm etics for years. Its sm all m olecular structure allow s for easy adso rption,
giving the skin a soft sm oo th texture. Coco nu t oil softens the skin, bu t protects against
dam age, prom otes healing and gives it a m ore healthy app earance and shine. The low degree
of ethoxylation in LE VEN O L H & B lead to an ester with sim ilar em ollient benefits to coco nut
oil, and w hich can be used in bo th aqu eous system s and in leave-on produ cts.
W ith LEVEN O L H & B used as co-surfactant, cosm etic form ulators can develop high quality
produ cts at low er cost, becau se there is no need for add ition al m oisturizers to b e added .
M O I S T U R I Z E R S R a n g e :
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance % Active
at 20C Matter
EMANON HE 68201-46-7 PEG -7 G lyceryl Cocoate Liquid 100
LEVENOL H&B 68201-46-7 G lycereth-2 Cocoate Liquid 100
LEVENOL N-242 308067-12-1 PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides Liquid 100
FINDET LN/8750 61790-81-6 PEG -75 Lanolin Liquid 50
24 25
MAIN
APPLICATION
Re l a t i v e Conduc t a n ce
M O I S T U R I Z I N G E F F E C T : " l e a ve - o n " p r o d uc t
16
14
12
10
8
6
4
2
00 1 2 3 4 5
LEVENOLH&B EMANONHE LEVENOL N-242 Water
t i m e ( h )
S ho r t t r e a tm en t ( o n e a p p l i c a t i o n ) ;
20+-1C; 45+-5% RH
Moisturising Emulsion
Emollient 10.0%
Polysorbate 60 1.5%
Sorbitan Stearate 0.5%
Wat er Up t o 100%
Re l a t i v e Conduc t a n ce
M O I S T U R I Z I N G E F F E C T : " r in s e - o f f " p r o d uc t
1.1
1.0
0.9
0.8
0.7
0.6
0.5
t i m e ( h )
S ho r t t r e a tm en t ( o n e a p p l i c a t i o n ) ;
20+-1C; 45+-5% RH
10% LEVENOLH&B 5% LEVENOLH &B 10% Glycerine Water
0 1 2 3 4 5
Shower Gel
SLES 10.0 %
CAPB 3.0 %
Emol li en t 5 or 10 %
Water Up to 100%
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S o l u b i l i z e r s & E m u l s i f i e r s
Follow ing the introduction of the 2 in 1concept in the early 90's, the use of silicones
and cationic polym ers, as w ell as the use of essential oils in personal cleansers, becam e
m ore and m ore extended. Bod y and h air cleansers are required to offer additional
properties such as a soft feel, enhanced shine or good com bing. The use of these
additives in clear aqueous form ulations such as gels, conditioners or sham poos, will
haze the solution and can eventually lead to separation. Esp ecially the silicones are
hardly em ulsified in w ater solutions such as sham poo s. To avoid haziness and prevent
separation , the use of a solubilizer is required. Surfactants usually used as solubilizers
have a high H LB and disperse clearly in w ater. They have to be u sed in the proper ratio
w ith the o il. This surfactant to oil ratio can range from 2:1 to higher, although the
optim um is based o n em pirical results.
O ne of the m ost effective solubilizers, useful to incorporate m any different type o f oils,
is PEG -40 hydrogenated castor oil, which K ao Chem icals Europe produces un der the
trade nam e of FIN D ET ARH /52. Besides this w ell know n surfactant, Kao Chem icals
Europe's product range also includes som e relevant surfactants that com bine com parable
solubilizing properties to the above m entioned product, together w ith som e additional
benefits as co-surfactants, such as foam ing ability, thickening effect or em olliency.
This is the case of som e products in the AK YPO , AM ID ET or LEVENO L fam ilies.
D etailed inform ation abo ut process-ability, com positions and ad ditional ben efits are
available upon request, as w ell as som e related publications.
S OL UB IL IZ ER S & CO- S UR F ACT ANT S R ange :
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance % Active
at 20C Matter
AKYPO RLM 70 33939-64-9 Laureth-8 Carboxylic A cid Liquid 90
AKYPO SOFT 70 BVC 33939-64-9 Sodium Laureth-8 Carboxylate P asty 72
AKYPO SOFT 100 BVC 339 39 -6 4-9 S od ium Lau reth -11 C arbo xylate Liqu id 72
LEVENOL C-201 68201-46-7 G lycereth-17 Cocoate Liquid 100
AMIDET A 1 5 10 76 28-0 4-6 Trideceth -2 C arbo xam id e M E A Liqu id 95
ADDITIONALPROPERTIES
Co-surfactant
Mildness
Vegetable Origin
26 27
As it is known, an em ulsion is a system of tw o or m ore im m iscible m aterials in w hich one m aterial or phase is dispersed as particles
in the other. Em ulsifying agents are required to redu ce the interfacial tension and stabilize these em ulsions. They m ay be anionic,
cationic, non-ionic or even am photeric surfactants in nature. To select the m ost convenient em ulsifier, the type of em ulsion to be
prepared has to be decided. The m ost com m on type in cosm etic produ cts today is oil-in-water (O /W ), in w hich water is the
continuous phase, resulting in a cooling effect, due to w ater evaporation, w hen it is applied d irectly to the skin. On the other hand,
w hen a water-in-oil (W /O ) em ulsion is used, the oil m akes con tact im m ediately with the skin, giving a m ore occlusive oily film and
less refreshing effect. This type of em ulsions is used in night cream s, m akeup rem overs, sunscreens, etc.
The H ydrophile-Lipophile system (H LB), developed by Griffin in 1949 , m akes the choice of the em ulsifier quite sim pler and system atic.
The H LB system is the ratio of oil-soluble and water-soluble portions of a m olecule, and it is m ainly used for non-ionic surfactants.
Kao Ch em icals Europe offers a group of sorbitan esters which are widely used as em ulsifiers, and w hich cover a wide H LB range.
This is the KA O PAN
fam ily.
Another im portant group of surfactants, w hich are m ostly used in the cosm etic field as em ulsifying agents are the fatty alcoh ol
ethoxylates. Kao Chem icals Europe produces them under the nam e of FIND ET . Alkyl chain length and ethoxylation degree are variable.
EM UL S I F I ER S & S OL UB I L IZ ER S R ange :
Trademark CAS Number INCI NameAppearance
HLBat 20C
KAOPAN SP-L10 68154-36-9 Sorbitan Laurate Liquid 8.6
KAOPAN SP-S10 1338-41-6 Sorbitan Stearate Solid-Pellets 4.7
KAOPAN SP-O10 1338-43-8 Sorbitan O leate Liquid 4.3
KAOPAN TW L120 9005-64-5 Polysorbate-20 Liquid 16.7
KAOPAN TW S120 9005-67-8 Polysorbate-60 Liquid 14.9
KAOPAN TW O120 9005-65-6 Polysorbate-80 Liquid 15.0
FINDET 1214N/23 68439-50-9 Laureth-11 & M yreth-11 Solid-Paste 14.3
FINDET 1618A/18 68439-49-6 Ceteareth-6 Solid 10.2
FINDET 1618A/35-P 68439-49-6 Ceteareth-23 Solid-Pellets 16.0
FINDET 1618A/72-P 68439-49-6 Ceteareth-60 Solid-Pellets 18.3
FINDET 1816/32-E 68920-66-1 O leth-20 & Ceteth-20 Solid 15.4
FINDET ARH/52 61788-85-0 PEG -40 H ydrogenated Castor O il Soft Paste 13.9
LEVENOL SR-152 180254-52-8 PEG -40 Sunflower G lycerides Liquid 13.2
MAIN
APPLICATION
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F o r m u l a
C -024 C-073
Concentrated Mild
MAIN SURFACTANT
EMAL270D or 270E 23 ----
EMAL228D or 227E ---- 28.5
BETADETHR-50K 10 ----
CO-SURFACTANT BETADETHR ---- 10.0
AKYPOSOFT 100 NV ---- 11.5
THICKENER AMIDETB-112 1.0 ----
AMIDETN ---- 1.0
EMOLLIENT EMANONHE 0.8 ----
APPEARANCE MODIFIER DANOXP-15 3.0 ----
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s.
OTHERSCi t r ic Acid / N aOH (di lu t ed) q.s. q.s.
N aCl q.s. 0.8
Deionized wat er Up t o 100% Up to 100%
Appearance Pear led Transparent
pH 6 .5 6.5
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosit y ( cPs, 20C) 8.000 2.500
D ry mat t er (%) 25.0 17.0
Cloud Point (C) ---- - 10
More detai ls about process are available upon request
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- When EMAL270D (SLES at 70% concentrati on) is used, it is recommended to heat the water
up to around 45C before adding it.
- All t he other components are soluble in t he SLES solution.
- Add DANOXP-15 before viscosity adj ust in order to be sure about it s homogeneous incorporation.
N O R M A L S H A M P O O
For al l t he fami l y
26 2926
H a i r C a r e
B o d y C l e a n s e r s
O t h e r s
S h a m p o o
A p p l i c a t i o n s
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B A B Y S H A M P O O
Keep your baby smi l ing
C-011 C-068 C-095 C-100
Without NaCl Pearled Regular Very Mild
MAIN SURFACTANT
EMAL270D or 270E ---- 12.0 ---- 12.0
EMAL228D or 227E 14.00 ---- 31.5 ----
BETADETS-20 13.0 7.5 9.0 7.0
CO-SURFACTANT LEVENOLH& B 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0
AKYPOFOAM RL 40 ---- ---- ---- 1.5
KAOPANTW L120 1.0 ---- q.s. ----
THICKENER PEG-120 M ethyl Gl ucose Dioleate 0.6 ---- ---- ----
AMIDETN ---- 1.0 0.7 1.5
APPEARANCE MODIFIER DANOXPL-10 ---- 3.0 ---- ----
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERSCitric Acid / NaOH (diluted) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
NaCl ---- q.s. ---- ---
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
Appearance Transparent Pearled Transparent Transparent
pH 6.5 6.5 6.5 6.5
Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 8.000 10.000 4.300 2.200 CHARACTERISTICSDry matter (%) 13.0 17.0 14.5 16.2
Cloud Point (C) - 4 ---- - 8 < - 10
Zein Test Non Irritant Non Irritant Non Irritant Non Irritant
More detail s about process are available up on request
F o r m u l a
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- In t he case of ref. C-011, adjust t he final desired viscosity using PEG-120 Met hyl
Glucose Dioleate to in crease it or KAOPANTW L120 to decrease it .
30 31
A N T I D A N D R U F F S H A M P O O
Keep you hai r & scalp heal t hy
C-0 26 C-0 50 C-11 4
Zn -Pt Cl imbazo le P ir oc to ne Olam in e
EMAL270D or 270E 15.0 23.0 ----
MAIN SURFACTANT EMAL228D or 227E ---- ---- 25.0
EMAL40TE 6.0 ---- ----
BETADETHR-50K ---- 10.0 ----
CO-SURFACTANT BETADETHR 5.0 ---- ----
BETADETTHC-2 ---- ---- 5.0
AKYPO FOAM RL 40 ---- ---- 5.0
THICKENER AMIDETB-112 2.0 1.0 ----
Hydroxypropyl Cellulose 0.2 ---- ----
EMOLLIENT EMANONHE 0.8 0.8 ----
CONDITIONER TETRANYLCO-40 0.5 ---- ----
Zinc Pyrithione 1 act ive ---- ----
SPECIFIC ADDITIVE Climbazole ---- 0.5 ----
Piroctone Olamine ---- ---- 0.5
Salicylic Acid ---- ---- 0.3
TETRANYLU 0.5 ---- 1.0
APPEARANCE MODIFIER DANOXP-15 3.0 3.0 ---
Additives* q.s. q.s. q.s.
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Citric Acid / NaOH (diluted) q.s. q.s. q.s.
NaCl < 1.0 q.s. q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
Appearance Opaque/ pearled Transparent
pH 5.5 6.5 6.0
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 5.000 8.000 4.000
Dry matter (%) 21.0 25.0 15.0
Cloud Point (C) ---- ---- - 6
F o r m u l a
More detail s about process are available upon request
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- Ref. C-026 : solubilize Hydroxypropyl Cellulose into t he water avoiding lumps formation.
- Ref. C-050 : mi x Climbazol, AMID ETB-112 and EMANONHE, heating a little bit t o improve solubility.
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Keep your hai r beaut y
C -0 66 C -0 72 C- 080 C - 09 3
Very Reg ula r Regu lar Af t e r
Mi l d Tr an spa ren t Pear l ed Per m
MAIN SURFACTANTEMAL270D or 270E ---- ---- 12.0 ----
EMAL228D or 227E 25.0 32.0 ---- 43.0
BETADETS-20 5.0 8.0 4.0 ----
BETADETHR ---- ---- 3.0 ---- CO-SURFACTANT
LEVENOLH& B 2.0 2.0 1.5 1.5
AKYPOSOFT 70 BVC 4.0 ---- ---- 2.0
THICKENER AMIDETN ---- ---- ---- 2.0
FOAM BOOSTER AMIDETA 15 1.0 ---- ---- ----
APPEARANCE MODIFIER DANOXPL-10 3.0 ---- 3.0 ----
QUARTAMINAB 0.5 ---- ---- ----
CONDITIONERAMIDETAPA22 ---- 0.5 ---- ----
TETRANYLCO-40 ---- ---- 0.5 ----
QUARTAMINBTC 131 ---- ---- ---- 0.2
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERSCitric Acid /NaOH (diluted) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
NaCl (viscosity adjust) q.s. ---- 0.7 1.5
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
Appearance Pearled Transparent Pearled Transparent
pH 6.0 6.5 6.5 6.5
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 9.000 3.700 10.500 4.000
Dry matter (%) 17.0 15.0 16.0 18.0
Cloud Point (C) ---- < - 10 ---- - 6
F o r m u l a
More detai ls about process are available upon request
2 i n 1 S H A M P O O
Keep your hai r beaut y
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- When EMAL270D (SLES at 70% concentr ation) is used, it is recommended
to heat t he water up to around 45C before adding it.
- All t he other component s are soluble in t he SLES soluti on wit h th e exception
of some of the condi t ioners, those which are sol id. I n th e case of
QUARTAMINAB, al l t he mixt ure has to be heated up t o 75C.
- In t he case of AMID ETAPA22 mix it wit h 10% of water and heat up to
65C. Sti r and add the blend t o the basic composition.
- In ref. C-093, mix AMIDETN, LEVENOLH&B and QUARTAMI NBTC
131 , heat u p to 50C, sti r unt i l clear and add t o the basic formula.
ADDITIVES:
- If hi gher conditioni ng effect or some specific benefits are desired, some other
addit ives can be added like: silicones , vitami ns, polymers, etc.
- To improve feeling while rinsing, our recomm endation i s to use SOFCARE
KG-101E at 0 .3%.
SOFCARE KG-101E
(Cation i c Polymer)
Hair Care Application
Foam speed &creaminess
Better feeling while rinsing
Improve detangling
Better comb-ability
Smooth hair feeling
Produced by Kao Corporation in Asia
32 33
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H A I R R I N S E C O N D I T I O N E R
Condi t i on ing accord ing to your needs
34 35
H A I R G L O S S S H A M P O O
Im prove ha i r sh ine
F o r m u l a
C-067 C-078
Clear Clear
MAIN SURFACTANT EMAL227E or 228D 36.0 36.0
SOLUBILIZERAKYPOSOFT 100 BVC ---- 5.0
AKYPOSOFT 70 BVC 10 5.0
THICKENERAMIDETN 5.0 5.0
PEG-150 Distearate 0.5 ----
Guar Gum (1) 0.5 ----
CONDITIONERJojoba Oil 0.5 ----
Cyclomethicone (2) 0.5 0.5
QUARTAMINBTC 131 ---- 0.3
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s.
OTHERSCitric Acid / NaOH (diluted) q.s. q.s.
NaCl q.s. 3.0
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100%
Appearance Transparent Transparent
pH 6.5 6.3
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 5.000 4.000
Dry matter (%) 25.0 17.0
Cloud Point (C) - 4 - 4
(1) Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimoni um Chloride
(2) DC 245
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
C-067
A - Add guar gum to the water and reduce pH using citric acidto improve its incorporation. Continue adding EMAL227E.
B - Mix AKYPOSOFT 70 BVC, AMIDETN an d PEG-150Distearate at 60C.
B - Mix Jojoba oil and cyclomethicone. Stir t ill clear.
D - Add C over B.
E - Add D over A.
Continue with t he addition of t he rest of t he components.
C-078
A - Mix Jojoba oil and cyclomethicone. Stir t ill clear.
B - Mix QUARTAMINBTC 131 and AM IDETN at 75C. Stir til l clear.
C - Add B over A.
D - Add AKYPOSOFT 100 BVC.
E - Add AKYPOSOFT 70 BVC.
F - Mix EMAL228D with water.
G - Add F over E.
Continue with t he addition of t he rest of t he components.
C-054 C-056 C-053
N or ma l Ha ir Da ma ge d H air Ha ir Ma sk
CONDITIONER QUARTAMIN
AB K 4.5 6.0 9.0
CO-EMULSIFIER FINDET1618A/35-P 0.5 ---- 1.0
EXCEPARLHO/IPM ---- 0.5 2.0
EMOLLIENTLEVENOLH& B ---- 0.5 ---
Protein Derivative(1) ---- ---- 2.0
Glycerine ---- ---- 3.0
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Fragr./ Dye(s )/ Preserv. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
Appearance White Emulsion
pH 3.5 - 4.5
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 5.000 16.000 50.000
Dry matter (%) 5.0 7.0 15.0
Cationic Active Matter(%) 1.5 2.0 3.0
More detai ls about process are availabl e upon request
(1) Hydroxypropyltrim onium Hydrolized Wheat Protein
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- Heat wat er up to around 50C and add LEVENOLH&B,
FINDET1618A/35-P and glycerine.
- Continue heating ti ll 80C and add QUARTAMINABK
in f lakes and EXCEPARLHO /I PM . Keep stirring 30
minutes at 80C.
EXCEPARLHO/IPM
(Cetyl Octanoate / Isopropyl Myristate)
90 / 1 0
Emollient
Conditioner
Available upon request
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Don ' t fo rge t the env i ronmen t
C- 074 C- 075 C - 076 C- 077
T hi n No r mal Da mag ed Ha ir
Ha ir H air Ha ir Mask
MAIN CONDITIONER AMIDETAPA22 1.1 1.7 2.2 3.2
NEUTRALIZER Lactic Acid (90%) 0.3 0.5 0.6 0.7
CONDITIONER & THICKENER KALCOL6850 2.2 3.3 4.4 7.0
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Fragr./ Dye(s )/ Preserv. q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- Heat wat er up to around 75C. Add the lactic acid and then AMID ET
APA22 under stirring, avoiding air incorporation.
- Once the mi xture is clear add KALCOL6850 under stirring. Once the fatty
alcohol is completely melted keep stir ring at 75C for 30 minutes, unti l tot al
homogeneity.
- Start t he cooling process in a gradual slope (5C / 30 min.) .
- Perfume and preservative must be added at t emperat ure below 40C. Then
adjust the pH.
Appearance White Emulsion
pH 3.5 - 4.5
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 7.000 15.000 22.000 40.000
Dry matter (%) 4.0 5.5 7.0 11.0
Cationic Active Matter(%) 1.3 2.0 2.5 5.5
36 37
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- In order t o obtain hi gher viscosities with QU ARTAMINBTC 131 add it to
30% of the water at 6 0C. Once incorporated add fat ty alcohol and t he rest
of conditioners and emollients. After hom ogenization cool down to 40C
and then add t he rest of water and additi ves.
- In t he case of QUARTAMI NBTC 131 VC add it t o 50% of t he water at
40C. Once incorporated add the rest of condition ers and emolli ents. After
homogenization add the rest of wat er and additives.
- If hi gher conditioni ng effect or some specific benefits are desired, some other
addit ives can be added like: silicones , vitami ns, polymers, etc.
C-109 C-110 C-115
Normal Hair Dry Hair Normal Hair
Low temperature
QUARTAMIN
BTC 131 2.0 2.0 ---- CONDITIONER QUARTAMINBTC 131 VC ---- ---- 6.5
Quaternium-80 ---- 1.0 ----
CONDITIONER & THICKENER KALCOL6850 3.0 3.0 ----
EMOLLIENT LEVENOLH& B ---- ---- 0.5
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS NaCl ---- 0.75 ----
Fragr./ Dye(s )/ Preserv. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
Appearance White Emulsion
pH 3.5 - 4.5
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 10.100 9.000 10.000
Dry matter (%) 4.5 5.75 4.0
Cationic Active Mat ter(%) 1.2 2.2 1.7
More detai ls about process are available upon request
H A I R R I N S E C O N D I T I O N E R
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L E A V E - O N H A I R C O N D I T I O N E RH A I R R I N S E C O N D I T I O N E R
C-060 C-008 C-007
Clear/Hot Clear/Cold Emulsion/Cold
QUARTAMINAB 1.0 ---- ----
MAIN CONDITIONER QUARTAMIN
60W25 5.0 10.0 ---- TETRANYLCO-40 ---- ---- 1.7
CO-EMULSIFIER & THICKENEROXIDETDMCLD 6.0 ---- ----
LEVENOLC-301 ---- ---- 0.5
THICKENER Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 1.2 1.0 1.0
STABILIZER Propylene Glycol ---- 2.0 2.0
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s.
Fragr./ Dye(s )/ Preserv. q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS NaOH (diluted) q.s. ---- q.s.
Triethanolamine ---- 0.5 ----
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- The addition of Triethanol amin e to the water reduces the incorporati on tim e
of th e Hydroxyethyl Cellulose. The percentage of this polymer depends on the
desired f inal viscosity.
- QUARTAMI NAB is a solid i n pellet s and needs to be heat ed at ar ound 75C
and mixed with the other surfactan ts before being added to the water phase.
- If hi gher conditioni ng effect or some specific benefits are desired, some other
additi ves can be added like: silicones , vitam ins, polymers, etc.
Appearance Clear Gel White Emulsion
pH 3.5 - 4.5
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 10.000 1.500 22.000
Dry matter (%) 5.0 3.5 3.0
Cationic Active Matter(%) 2.0 2.5 1.5
More detai ls about process are available upon request
38 39
Clear Gel - Cold Pr ocess Rinse is not n eeded
F o r m u l a
C -107 C-108
Clear Emulsion
MAIN CONDITIONER AMIDET
APA22 0.5 0.96
EMULSIFIER OXIDETDMCLD 1.0 ----
THICKENER & CONDITIONER SOFCAREKG-101E 0.1 ----
KALCOL6850 ---- 2.5
STABILIZER Glycerine 1.0 1.0
EMOLLIENT Isopropyl Myristate ---- 1.0
Additives q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Fragr./ Dye(s )/ Preserv. q.s. q.s.
Lact ic acid (diluted) q.s. q.s.
Deionized water Up to 100% Up to 100%
Appearance Clear Liquid Emulsion
pH 4.0 - 4.5 4.5-5.0
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 7 7000
Dry matter (%) 3.0 5.8
Cationic Active Matter(%) 0.6 1.1
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- AMIDETAPA22 is a solid i n pellet s and needs to be heat ed at
around 80C. It also needs to be neutralised with lactic acid, which
is added to wat er before addition of the amide.
- OXIDETDMCLD and KALCOL6850 are also added at 80C.
- SOFCAREKG-101E must be pre-dilut ed i n water. This solut ion is
obtained by 30 minut es stirring at 50C. The polymer solution is
added at room temperature.
- All other in gredients are added at room t emperature one by one.
ADDITIVES:
- If higher condit ioning effect
or some specifi c benefits are
desired, some other additi ves
can be added like: vitamins,
polymers. extract s, silicones,
etc.
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40 41
H A N D L I Q U I D S O A P
C-081 C-119 CG-032
Mild Soap based Abrasive
EMAL270D or 270E 12.0 ---- ----
EMAL
228D or 227E---- ---- 27.0
MAIN SURFACTANT PRIOLYB-750D ---- 30.0 ----
AKYPOSOFT 100 BVC ---- ---- 4.5
AKYPOFOAM RL 40 ---- 8.0 ----
BETADETSH R 2.9 ---- ----
CO-SURFACTANT BETADETHR ---- ---- 5.0
LEVENOLH&B 2.0 ---- ----
THICKENER AMIDETN ---- 3.5 3.5
APPEARANCE MODIFIER DANOXPL-10 3.5 2.0 ----
Propylene Glycol ---- 1.5 ----
Walnutshell Powder ---- ---- 12.0
SPECIFIC ADDITIVE Bentonite ---- ---- 3.5
Titanium Dioxide ---- ---- 0.5
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s.
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Citric Acid / NaOH (diluted) q.s. q..s. q.s.
NaCl (viscosity adjust) 1.5 ---- 0.3
Deionized water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- Propylene Glycol is u sed t o reduce viscosity.
- To improve skin feeling, our recommendation
is to use SOFCAREKG-301P at 0.3-0.5 %.
Appearance Pearled Pearled Opaque
CHARACTERISTICSpH 6.3 6.9 6.5
Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 5.900 3.000 20.000
Dry matter (%) 15.5 27.0 31.5
More detai ls about process are availabl e upon request
H and Cleanser - Soapy Feel ing
F A C E C L E A N S E R
C-070 C-089 C-104
Foaming Make-up Remover Fresch & Clean
MAIN SURFACTANTEMAL228D or 227E 27.0 ---- ----
PRIOLYB-750D ---- ---- 30.0
CO-SURFACTANTBETADETS-20 5.0 ---- 3.0
LEVENOLH& B 2.0 ---- ----
Acrylic Polymer ---- 0.1 ----
THICKENER KALCOL6850 --- 0.3 ----
RHEODOLTW-IS399C ---- ---- 2.0
EMULSIFIER FINDET1214N/23 ---- 1.5 ----
Glyceryl Stearate ---- 3.0 ----
EMOLLIENT Mineral Oil ---- 10.0 ----
SOFCAREKG-301P(4% sol.) ---- ---- 5.0
MOISTURIZER Glycerine 6.0 2.5 ----
Dimethicone Copolyol ---- 1.0 ---- SPECIFIC ADDITIVETocopheryl Acetate ---- 0.5 ----
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Citric Acid / TEA (diluted) q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- In t he case of Ref. C-070, viscosity can be controlled using
LEVENOL H&B.
- Process at 70C in t he case of Ref. C-089.
- In t he case of Ref. C-104 prepare a 4% solut ion of SOFCARE
KG-301P in water by stirrin g 30 min utes at 50C.
Appearance Transparent Emulsion Opaque
pH 5.5 7.2 6.0
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 1.300 3.700 3.500
Dry matter (%) 17.0 19.0 24.0
Cloud Point (C) - 8 ---- ----
Details about process are available upon r equest
M ild Cleanser - Make-up Remover
RHEODOLTW-IS399C
(PEG-160 Sorbitan Triisostearate)
Viscous paste to solid
Thickener
High viscosity at low dosage
Produced by Kao Corporation in Asia and
commercialised by Kao Chemicals Europe in Europe
RHEODOLTW-IS399C
(PEG-160 Sorbitan Triisostearate)
Viscous paste to solid
Thickener
High viscosity at low dosage
Produced by Kao Corporation in Asia
PRIOLYB-750D
(Phosphate esters blend)
Very mild co-surfactant
Easily rinsed-off
Produced by Kao Corporation in Asia
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D E R M O B O D Y C L E A N S E R
C-017 C- 040 C- 044 C- 103
Regul ar Opaque Sp or t S port
MAIN SURFACTANTEMAL270D or 270E 14.0 ---- ---- 12.7
EMAL228D or 227E ---- 30.0 33.0 ----
BETADETTHC-2 ---- 5.0 ---- ----
CO-SURFACTANTBETADETHR 10.0 10.0 6.0 ----
BETADETHR-50K ---- ---- ---- 4.7
LEVENOLH& B 2.5 2.0 1.8 ----
THICKENER AMIDETB-112 ---- 1.7 ---- 2.0
EMOLLIENTEMANONHE ---- 0.7 ---- ----
LEVENOLN-242 ---- ---- ---- 1.0
APPEARANCE MODIFIER Opacifier ---- 0.7 0.5 0.5
SPECIFIC ADDITIVETETRANYLU ---- ---- 1.0 1.0
Triclosan ---- ---- 0.2 0.2
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Preserv. / Fragr. / Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Citric Acid / NaOH (diluted) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.NaCl (viscosity adjust) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
More detai ls about process are availabl e upon request
SOFCAREKG-301P
(Cationic Polymer)
Skin Care Application
- Body Shampoo
- Face Cleanser
- Hand Cleanser
Improves feeling of soap base cleansers
Improves skin conditioning
Slippery feeling during rinsing
Foam enhancer: rich and creamy foam
Produced by Kao Corporation in Asia
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- When EMAL270D (SLES at 70% concentr ation) is used, it is recommended
to heat t he water up to around 45C before adding it.
- It is recommended to pre-dilute the opacifier in water and to avoid t he
excessive stir after being added to t he total formula, n ot t o damage the
part icle size.
ADDITIVES:
- If hi gher conditioni ng effect or some specific benefits are desired, some other
addit ives can be added like: vit ami ns, polymers, extr acts, silicones, etc.
- To im prove skin feeling, our recomm endation i s to use SOFCAREKG-301P
at 0.3% .It must pre-diluted in water. This solution is obtained by 30
minu tes stirr ing at 50C. The polymer solution i s added at room temperatu re.
42 43
Keep t he skin clean, fr esh and safe
Appearance Transparent Opaque Opaque
pH 6.0 6.5 6.0 6.0
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 6.000 10.000 5.000 2.000
Dry matter (%) 16.0 17.0 14.5 13.5
Cloud Point (C) - 8 ---- ---- ----
TETRANYL
U( Undecylenamidopropyltrimonium
Meth osulf ate )
Cationic Surfactant
Fungicide Effect
Skin &Hair application
Available upon request
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44 45
M O I S T U R I Z I N G B O D Y C L E A N S E R
M ois tur i z i ng ef fect - M i l dness
C-096 C- 097 C-094 C-1 02
Regu lar Ex tr a Reg ula r Reg ula r
MAIN SURFACTANT EMAL227E or 228D 32.0 32.0 30.0 30.0
BETADETSH R ---- ---- 3.6 ----
BETADETHR 5.0 5.0 ---- ----
CO-SURFACTANTBETADETS-20 3.0 3.0 ---- 4.2
AKYPOSOFT 45 NV ---- ---- 10.0 ----
AKYPOSOFT 70 BVC 3.0 3.0 ---- ----
LEVENOLH& B 2.0 2.0 2.0 ----
THICKENER AMIDETN 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0
EMOLLIENTSOFCAREKG-301P ---- 0.5 ---- ----
LEVENOLN-242 ---- ---- ---- 2.0
APPEARANCE MODIFIER DANOX PL-10 ---- 3.0 ---- ----
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Citric acid (diluted) (pH adjust) q.s. q..s. q.s. q.s.
NaCl (viscosity adjust) q.s. q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
Appearance Transparent Pearled Transparent Transparent
pH 6.0 6.0 5.6 5.7
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 6.000 11.000 7.300 2.000
Dry matter (%) 16.0 18.0 17.5 17.0
Cloud Point (C) - 10 ---- - 10 < -8
F o r m u l a
More detail s about process are available upon request
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- EMAL227E (SLES at 27% concentra ti on) is
easily soluble in water at room temperature.
- EMAL270D (SLES at 70% concentration) can
be also used. In that case, it is recommended to
heat the water up to around 45C before adding it.
ADDITIVES:
- If higher conditioning effect or some specific benefits are
desired, some other addi tives can be added like: vit ami ns,
polymers, extracts.
- To improve skin feeling, our recommendation is to use SOFCARE
KG-301P at 0.3-0.5 % as in the case of ref. C-097.
S L E S F R E E B O D Y C L E A N S E R
Keep Up-dated wi t h market t rends
C-101 C-105 C-106
ALFANOX46 ---- 27.0 12.2
MAIN SURFACTANT SUCCIDETNES ---- ---- 20.0
AKYPOFOAM RL 40 8.0 ---- ----
BETADETHR 17.0 ---- 5.0
CO-SURFACTANT BETADETS-20 ---- 10.5 ----
OXIDETL-75 ---- ---- 5.0
THICKENER AMIDETN 3.8 2.1 1.0
PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate --- 1.5 1.5
EMOLLIENT EMANONHE ---- ---- 0.5
CONDITIONER QUARTAMINBTC 131 0.3 ---- ----
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Citric Acid / NaOH (diluted) q.s. q..s. q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- Dissolve QUARTAMINBTC 131 in AM IDETN by stirring and heati ng up to 60C.
Appearance Transparent Transparent Transparent
pH 6.6 6.5 5.6
CHARACTERISTICS Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 6.400 5.000 5.000
Dry matter (%) 15.0 21.5 17.5
Cloud Point (C) + 2 < - 10 < - 10
More detail s about process are available upon request
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B O D Y C A R E
Take care of your body
B A T H O I L
Relax i n t he Spa - Wel lness
C-085 C-086 C-087
B ab y L oti on H and Cr ea m L ig ht Bo dy Mi lk
KAOPANSP-S10 1.0 ---- ----
EMULSIFIER KAOPANSP-O10 ---- 1.8 1.2
KAOPANTW O120 ---- 2.2 ----
CO-EMULSIFIER & MOISTURIZEREMANONHE 5.0 ---- ----
LEVENOLH&B 3.0 3.0 5.0
Stearic Acid 2.0 ---- ----
EMOLLIENT & OILVaseline Oil 10.0 26.0 ----
Cetyl Octanoate 1.0 7.0 8.0
Isopropyl Myristate ---- ---- 1.0
KALCOL6098 1.0 ---- ----
THICKENER KALCOL8098 1.0 ---- ----
Acrylic Polymer ---- 0.3 0.13
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s. q.s.
Citric acid (diluted) q.s. q.s. q.s.OTHERS
Triethanolamine ---- 0.6 0.23
Deionized water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
F o r m u l a
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- Process at 70C.
- Pre-dilute t he Acrylic Polymer in water before using it.
Appearance Emulsion
CHARACTERISTICSpH 5.4 7.6 7.0
Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 3.600 20.000 13.000
HLB 9.5 10.7 9.7
Details about process are available upon request
F o r m u l a
CG-015 CG-030
Foa mi ng O il 2- pha se s Foami ng Oil
AKYPORLM 45 4.0 ----
SOLUBILIZER AKYPO
RLM 100 4.0 ----
FINDETARH/52 ---- 5.0
CO-SOLUBILIZERFINDET1214N/16 15.0 ----
AMIDETN 15.0 ----
Mineral Oil 28.0 20.0
EMOLLIENT & OIL Jojoba Oil 28.0 ----
Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1 ----
MOISTURIZER Glycerine ---- 5.0
FOAMING COMPONENTEMAL270D ---- 13.0
BETADETHR-50K ---- 8.0
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s.
OTHERS NaOH (pH adjust) 1.0 q.s.
Deionized water ---- Up to 100%
Appearance Emulsion 2-phases
CHARACTERISTICS pH 7.5 5.5
Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 100 ----
Details about process are available upon r equest
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- High content of fragrance is usually used to improve pleasance when bathing.
46 47
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W E T W I P E S
Refresh & Clean - Very mi l d
F o r m u l a
C -015 C-057
Refreshing Cleansing
MAIN SURFACTANT LEVENOLH& B 2.0 4.5
CO-SURFACTANT QUARTAMIN60W25 0.2 ----
Ethyl Alcohol 15.0 ----
SPECIFIC ADDITIVE Propylene Glycol ---- 7.0
Camomille Extract ---- 2.0
Glycerine 3.0 ----
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s. q.s.
OTHERS NaOH (pH adjust) q.s. q.s.
Deionized water Up to 100% Up to 100%
CHARACTERISTICSAppearance Opaque
pH 5.5 5.5
S H A V I N G F O A M
On l y fo r h im
F o r m u l a
C-046
Aerosol
FOAMING SURFACTANT OXIDETDMCLD 3.0
BETADETHR-50K 1.0
EMOLLIENT & THICKENER LEVENOLH& B 0.5
KALCOL6098 0.5
Stearic Acid 7.5
SPECIFIC ADDITIVE Dimethicone Copolyol 1.0
Glycerine 3.0
Preserv. / Fragr./ Dye(s) q.s.
OTHERS Tri et hanolam ine (pH adjust ) 3.5
Deionized water Up to 100%
PROCESS - GENERALREMARKS:
- Process at 80C.
- Mi x 95% of this blend with
5% of propellant i n a can.
48 49
H A I R C O L O R I N G T E M P O R A R Y
F o r m u l a
C-113
Colour Cream
EMULSIFIER FINDET1618A/35-P 0.5
EMULSIFIER & CONDITIONER AMIDETAPA22 2.0
THICKENER KALCOL6098 4.0
NEUTRALIZER Lactic Acid (90%) 0.3
DYE(S) Ruby Red 5% 1.0
Lactic Acid (pH adjust) q.s.
OTHERS Fragrance / Preservative q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100%
CHARACTERISTICSAppearance Viscous emulsion
pH 7.0
Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 25.000
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- Heat t he water around 60C, add lactic acid and the fat ty phase together with the
emulsifiers melted. Cool down to 40C and add the dye soluti on. Adjust pH and add
the rest of additi ves.
- Ot her dyes can be used.
- This cream is applied directly to the hair obtaining a ni ce red brilliant colour.
On ly fo r a sho r t
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H A I R C O L O R I N G O X I D A T I O N D Y E I N G
C-111 CG-027A CG-027B
Sem i p er manent Sem i p er manent Per manent
EMULSIFIER & REFATTING Oleic Acid 10.0 ---- ----
EMULSIFIER & CONSISTENCY Oleth-13 10.0 ---- ----
EMULSIFIER FINDET1618 A/35-P ---- 2.1 2.1
THICKENER KALCOL6850 ---- 11.2 11.2
THICKENING & LEVELLINGAMIDETAPA22 5.0 ---- ----
AMIDETA 15 ---- 5.0 5.0
ALKALIZER Monoethanolamine 7.5 q.s. ----
NH3 25% ---- ---- 10.0
SOLVENT Ethyl Alcohol 10.0 ---- ----
Sodium sulfite 0.5 ---- 0.5
STABILIZER Ascorbic acid 0.5 ---- ----
(antioxidant, chelat ing, etc.) EDTA-Na4 0.5 0.35 0.35
Resorcinol q.s. q.s. q.s.DYE PRECURSOR
Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate q.s. q.s. q.s.
Additives q.s. q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Fragrance q.s. q.s. q.s.
Deionized water Up to 100% Up to 100% Up to 100%
For mu la CREAM BASE
Appearance Yellowish emulsion
CHARACTERISTICS pH (10%) 10.5 9.7 11.2
Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 2.500 39.000 4.500
50 51
PROCESS - GENERAL REMARKS:
- CREAM:Heat the water around 80C, add the emulsifiers and the AMI DET. Add
MEA and O leic acid. Cool down to 55C and add EtOH, stabillizers and dye Precursors.
Cool down to 40C and add the rest of addi tives.
- DEVELOPER:Heat t he water around 70C, add the fatt y phase together with the
emulsifiers melted. Cool down to 30-35C. Adjust pH and add t he rest of addit ives.
Mix 1 to 1
CREAM BASE / DEVELOPER
C -112 C-014
B l ea c hi ng E mu ls i on B l ea c hi ng E mu l si on
OXIDIZING AGENT H2O2 (50%) 12.0 12.0
EMULSIFIER FINDET1618 A/35-P ---- 0.5
FINDET1618 A/72-P ---- 1.1
EMULSIFIER & CONDITIONER QUARTAMINAB 4.0 ----
THICKENER KALCOL
6098 2.0 ---- KALCOL6870P ---- 3.4
HUMECTANT Glycerine 1.0 ----
Phosphoric acid (pH adjust) q.s. q.s.
OTHERS Fragrance q.s. q.s.
Deionized Water Up to 100% Up to 100%
Formula DEVELOPER
Appearance White emulsion White emulsion
CHARACTERISTICS pH 3.5 3.5
Viscosity (cPs, 20C) 375 1.500
Add co lou r to you r ha i r
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N o t e s