Pearlpurin® and its use in cosmetics
STS Tensid Service GmbH
STS Tensid Service GmbH
Freshwater pearls and their usein cosmetics• What is Pearlpurin®?• Freshwater pearls and Pearlpurin®
production• Composition,structure & formation of pearls• Analysis of pearl powder• Pearlpurin® : a history of pearl powder use• Pearlpurin® : cosmetic effects
- moisturising- improvement of skin smoothness & elasticity- stimulation of cutaneous fibroblasts- Synergy of UVA / UVB Protection
What is Pearlpurin® ?
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• Pearlpurin® PP is a micronised powder of freshwater pearls
• Pearlpurin ® PH is the water soluble form of Pearlpurin® PP
• Pearlpurin® PP contains both inorganic(aragonite crystalls) and organic (proteincomplexes, amino acids & polysaccharides) constituents for cosmetic efficacy
• Supported by efficacy test results
Freshwater pearl farm in China
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Freshwater pearlsare grown in naturalfreshwater lakes in China
Freshwater pearls & Pearlpurin® production
Pearls are carefully sorted byhand under strict hygienicconditions.The larger pearls are used forjewellery. Smaller pearls areused as raw material for thePearlpurin®-production, because of their higherproteinconcentration.
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Freshwater pearls & Pearlpurin® productionextensive technical microcrack grinding processes
Step 2: particle size < 5µmStep 1: particle size max 200 µm
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Freshwater pearls & Pearlpurin® production
• Hydrolysation of Pearlpurin® PP
to Pearlpurin® PH
• Spray-dry of liquid slurry to
Pearlpurin® PH powder• Production according to GPM
standards
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Freshwater pearl composition
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Pearls consist of alternating layers of crystallised CaCO3cemented together by an organic matrix (1-3,5%) :
Calcium carbonate as aragonite plates(~ 95-98%)
Polymer complexes composed of proteins/polypeptids(nacrein13 / mucoperlin10/ lustrin11/ perlucin12) and the polysaccharide chitin (~ 1-3,5%)
Water (~ 2-4%)
Trace elements
Pearl structureThe “annual rings“ of a pearl
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Pearl structureStructures of calcite and aragonite
calcite aragonite
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Freshwater pearl formation
• Pearls are “biominerals“
• Biomineralisation is controlled by a complex extracellular matrix of proteins& polysaccharides
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Freshwater pearl formationBiomineralisation- enzymatical step
Nacreinfrom EctodermNacreinfrom Ectoderm
CO2 + H2O CO32- + 2H+HCO3
- + H+
Nacrein – one of the complex proteins, responsible for theformation of pearls
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Freshwater pearl formationBiomineralisation- formation of aragonite-microlamina
Ca2+
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Ca2+NacreinNacrein NacreinNacrein Ca2+ CO32+NacreinNacrein
CO32+
polymorph
PS PaP
PaPPaP
PS PS NacreinNacrein
AragoniteAragonite
biomineralised
Nacrein-PS-PaP, a complex with biomineralisation propertiesPS= polysaccharide PaP= Polyanionic protein
Freshwater pearl analysis
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Requirements for application in cosmetic productsmicrobiological assay (viable count)
concentration of heavy metals (X-ray fluorescence analysis)polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (chromatographic analysis)
Analysis of the componentsprotein concentration
analysis of amino acidsparticle size of the pearl powder
solid-density measurements
Freshwater pearl analysisComparison of different protein compositions
Properties Aminoacid
Lustrinesoluble
Silkfibrin
Collagen (mammal)
12 % 7 %
4 % 8 %
Non-polar GlyAlaValPro
12 % 6 %
38 % 27 % 2,5 % 0,5 %
6 % 14 %
32 % 12 % 2 % 22 %
17 % 21 % 3 % 2 %
4 % 5 %
3 % ND
2 % 13 %
9 % 7 %
Pearl
Acid AsxGlx
1,5 % 1,5 %
11 % 6 %
Basic LysArg
0,5 % 1 %
4 % 7 %
Polar SerCys
13 % ND
9 % ND
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Freshwater pearl analysisThe composition of the amino acids in Pearlpurin PPin comparison to silkprotein
Amino acids Pearlpurin PP Silkprotein Symbol Name Mass% Mass%
Asp Aspargine acid 10,7 1,5 Thr Threonin 2,2 1 Ser Serin 9,2 13 Glu Glutamic acid 6,3 1,5 Pro Proline 2,3 0,5 Gly Glycin 16,5 38 Ala Alanin 20,8 27 Val Valin 2,9 2,5 Met Methionin 0,2 0,5 Ile Isoleucin 2,2 1
Leu Leucin 6,4 0,5 Tyr Tyrosin - 9,5 Phe Phenylanalin 5,5 1 His Histidin 4,6 0,5 Lys Lysin 3,5 0,5 Arg Arginin 6,6 1
Essential Amino acids Pearlpurin PP = Freshwaterpearl-powder
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Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of the protein concentration in different pearl types
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ws as bs ds
wb ab bb db
ws – white, small wb – white, big
as – apricot, small ab – apricot, big
bs – blue, small bb – blue, big
ds – dead, small db – dead, big
Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of the protein concentration in different pearl types
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0,00
0,50
1,00
1,50
2,00
2,50
3,00
3,50
wb ws ab as bb bs db ds
Sample properties
Prot
einc
once
ntra
tion
%
Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of electrolytes, trace elements and heavy metals
Electrolytes and trace elements:
Na, Cl, K, Mg, S, P, Mg, Al, Si, Mn, Fe, Sr
Heavy metals:
Cd, Ni, Cr, Hg, Pb < 10 ppm
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Freshwater pearl analysisAnalysis of the particle size
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d10= 0,66µm d50= 1,44µm d90= 3,41µm d95= 4,19µm d97= 4,82µm
Cosmetic & health effects: history of use of pearl powder
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Used for over 2000 years in China in bothtraditional medicine and topical applications15
Traditional medicine :Anti-ageing 1,5,6
Anti-radiative,6
Nourishes body & skin1
Inflammatory illnesses4
Detoxifying15
Healing15
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Used for over 2000 years in China in both traditional medicineand topical applications (Compendium of Materia Medica)15
Applied topicallySmooths15, softens & nourishes skin1, maintains skin tone7
anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle4,15
speeds skins natural metabolism /rejuvenates skin4
heals blemishes1,4, anti-acne15, minimises large pores4, skin lightening properties1,15
promotes SOD (superoxide dimutase activity) 1gently exfoliates/polishes the skin1
synergistically enhances moisturisation & UV protection1
promotes growth of new skin cells1
wound healing (3% in ointment) 15
Cosmetic & health effects: history of use of pearl powder
Cosmetic effects
Skin moisturisation / hydrationImprovement of skin firmness &
smoothnessSkin repair
Stimulation of cutaneous fibroblastsBooster effect of UVA / UVB protection
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Skin moisturization & hydration
Freshwater pearls contain naturalmoisturisers in the form of a wide range of
amino acids, protein complexes and polysaccharides
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STS Tensid Service GmbH
Skin moisturization & hydrationPearlpurin® PP 5%
Improvement of skin firmnessPearlpurin® PP 5%
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Improvement of skin smoothnessPearlpurin® PP 5%
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Skin repair: stimulation of cutaneous fibroblasts
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Reference: Tissue & Cell 2000 32 (1) 95 – 1017
“Stimulation of rat cutaneous fibroblasts and
their synthetic activity by implants of powdered
nacre (mother of pearl)“
.......it results in enhanced extracellular matrix
synthesis and the production of components
implicated in cell adhesion and communication (such
as decorine) and in tissue regeneration, in
synthesising typ I and type III collagen.....
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Synergistic UVA / UVB protectionINCI Placebo 1 2 3 4 5
Phase A Sympatens - O/100Steareth-100,Steareth-20,Steareth-10,Steareth-2 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0%
Sympatens - AS/020Steareth-2 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Sympatens - ES Octylstearate 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5%Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8%Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0%IPM Isopropylmyristate 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5%Avocadooil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Jojobaoil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Propylparabene 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1%Eusolex 2292 Ethylhexyl Methoxicinnamate - - - - - -
Phase B Eusolex T 2000 Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone - 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 5,0% 10,0%Pearlpurin PP Pearl Powder - - 2,5% 7,5% 5,0% -Glycerol 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Water 72,0% 69,5% 67,0% 62,0% 62,0% 62,0%Methylparabene 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2%
Total 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0%SPF in vitro 2 + / - 1 7 + / - 2 15 + / - 3 20 + / - 3 25 + / - 3 30 + / - 2
SPF-Test according to method of Diffey and Robson - 1
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Synergistic UVA / UVB protectionSPF-Test according to method of Diffey and Robson - 2
INCI 6 7 8 9 10 11
Phase A Sympatens - O/100Steareth-100,Steareth-20,Steareth-10,Steareth-2 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0% 2,0%
Sympatens - AS/020 Steareth-2 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Sympatens - ES Octylstearate 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5% 1,5%Stearic Acid Stearic Acid 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Lanette O Cetearyl Alcohol 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8% 1,8%Eutanol G Octyldodecanol 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0%IPM Isopropylmyristate 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5% 2,5%Avocadooil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Jojobaoil 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Propylparabene 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1% 0,1%Eusolex 2292 Ethylhexyl Methoxicinnamate - - 5,0% 5,0% 5,0% 5,0%
Phase B Eusolex T 2000Titanium Dioxide, Alumina, Simethicone 10,0% 15,0% 4,0% 2,0% - -
Pearlpurin PP Pearl Powder 5,0% - 2,0% 4,0% 8,0%Glycerol 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0% 3,0%Water 57,0% 57,0% 63,0% 63,0% 63,0% 59,0%Methylparabene 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2% 0,2%
total 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0% 100,0%SPF in vitro
34 + / - 3 36 + / - 3 22 + / - 1 22 + / - 2 20 + / - 3 25 + / - 3
Pearlpurin® PPAnalysis of the dermatological efficacy
UVA / UVB –ratio
Dermal moisture
Dermal elasticity
Dermal incompatibility none
Recommended use levels: 5% (optimum)
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Improvement of skin firmnessPearlpurin® PH – different percentages
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Improvement of skin smoothnessPearlpurin® PH – different percentages
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Pearlpurin® PHAnalysis of the dermatological efficacy
Dermal moisture
Dermal elasticity
Dermal smoothness
Dermal incompatibility ND
Recommended use levels: 0,25% - 5,0% (optimum)
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Conclusions
Pearlpurin® is an exciting and effective multifunctional active for skincare - especially anti-ageing products.
STS Tensid Service GmbH
STS Tensid Service GmbH
References :
1. Su, E. G. (2003) Asian Botanicals, pub. Allured Publishing Corporation.2. Keys, John, D. (1976) Chinese Herbs : Their Botany, Chemistry and
Pharmacodynamics PUB. Charles E. Tuttle Company3. Reid, D. (1995) A Handbook of Chinese Healing Herbs, pub. Shambhala, Boston.
is not enough to know, you4. Hadady, L. (2000) Pearls of health and beauty, Nutrition Science News5. Tong, Z.H. et al. (1988) The anti-aging effect of pearl oyster shell powder. J.
Tradit. Chin. Med. 8 (4) : 247-50.6. Cao, G. et al. (1996) [Pearl and Mother of pearl powder in health care] 7. Lopez, E. et al. (2000) Stimulation of rat cutaneous fibroblasts and their
synthetic activity by implants of nacre (mother of pearl), Tissue& cell, 32 (1): 95-101.
8. Bedout, L. et al. (2001) soluble proteins of the nacre of the giant oyster Pinctadamaxima and of the abalone Haliotis tuberculata: extraction and partial analysisof nacre proteins. Comp. Biochem. Mol. Biol. 128 (3): 389-400
9. Pereira-Mouriès, L et al (2002) Soluble silk-like organic matrix in the nacreouslayer of the bivalve Pinctada maxima. Eur. J. Biochem. 269 (20): 4994-5003.
References :
10. Marin, F. et al. (2000) Mucins and molecular calcification. J. Biol. Chem. 275 (27): 20667-20675
11. Shen, X. et al. (1997) Molecular cloning and characterisation of Lustrin A , a matrix protein from shell and pearl nacre of Haliotis rufescens. J. Bio. Chem. 272 (51) : 32472-32481.
12. Mann, K. et al. (2000) The amino-acid sequence of the abalone (HaliotisLaevigata) nacre protein, perlucin Eur. J. Biochem. 267, 5257-5264.
13. Miyamoto, H. et al. (1996) A carbonic anhydrase from the nacreous layer in oyster pearls Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA. 93, 9657-9660.
14. Bowen, C. E. & Tang, HG. (1996). Conchiolin-protein in aragonite shells of mollusks. Comp. Biochem. Physiol. 115A (4) : 269-275.
15. Leung, A.Y. & Foster, S: (1996) Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients Used in Food and Cosmetics, pub. John Wiley & Sons Inc., 2nd edn.
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Pearlpurin® is brought to you by STS Biotec Ltd., China
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