Performance Products

EMPIWAX® SK/BP

Description EMPIWAX®SK/BP is an anionic self-emulsifying blend suitable for the formulation of oil in water emulsions in various cosmetic applications. Its solubility in both oil and water phases makes it an easy ingredient to use and the possibility to process lower emulsification temperature enables to increase energy cost saving.

Application

O/W emulsions : Skin Care , Baby Care and Sun Care products

Benefits

Naturally derived and biodegradable

Range of application: up to 10%

Easy to use thanks to solubility in both oil and hot water phases

Provides excellent long-term stability

Suitable for low level of emulsifiable ingredients and economical formulations (possibility to use lower

emulsification temperature)

Its excellent pH stability makes it particularly useful in applications such as Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids

(AHA) skin care creams

Empiwax® SK / BP contains the basic ingredients to create a simple oil in water emulsion.

• Anionic surfactant to provide emulsification • Fatty alcohol to provide both a basic emollient effect with a good consistency.

This basic emulsion can be easily modified depending upon the application by utilisation of different emollients, additives and active ingredients to change the sensory effect and to create added functionality. The product is easy to use and because of its solubility in both the oil and hot water phases it can bring flexibility to the process. Some simple examples have been used to demonstrate the potential benefits that may be exploited with this product, such as the use of lower processing temperatures and the simplification of production. Skin care products containing alpha hydroxy acids (AHA’s) are often more acidic than typical emulsions, but this presents no problems for Empiwax® SK / BP. Stable emulsions were obtained by incorporating the product into the oil phase and using typical processing temperatures of 75°C. However, further studies demonstrated that it was also possible to achieve stable emulsions using temperatures as low as 55°C. AHA skin care cream This formulation contains active ingredients Alpha Hydroxy Acids, lactic acid and glycolic acid, the most commonly used to moisturize and improve the complexion whilst strengthening and restoring skin tissue. Empiwax®SK/BP as emulsification system enables to stabilize this formulation with an extreme pH.

Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate EMPIWAX® SK / BP Huntsman 9.0

Dicaprylyl Ether Cetiol® OE BASF 3.0 Hexyldecanol Eutanol® G16 BASF 5.0 Part B Aqua - - up to 100 Glycerin - - 4.0 Glycolic acid (70%) - - 7.0 Lactic acid (90%) - - 6.0 Part C Triethanolamine - - to pH 3.5 -

4.0 Preservative - - q.s Processing Instructions Mix the ingredients of Part A and warm to 55 - 75°C Mix the ingredients of Part B and warm to 55 - 75°C Add Part A to Part B with mixing. Adjust the pH to 3.5-4.0 with Triethanolamine and allow to cool. Add the preservative with mixing.

Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64, 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 30000 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months

Ref: EV/MG/2605/017 D

INCI composition INCI function

Cetearyl Alcohol Emollient / emulsifying / emulsion stabilizing / opacifying / viscosity controlling

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate Denaturant / emulsifying / surfactant / foaming

The flexibility of the product is further demonstrated by the following, similar formula where Empiwax® SK / BP was incorporated into the water phase (instead of the oil phase). This formulation allows a simple one step procedure, where the oil phase ingredients do not require separate heating, so only one heated mixing tank is required as well as making the process more energy efficient, with the obvious cost saving that implies.

AHA skin care cream Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Aqua - - Up to 100 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate EMPIWAX® SK / BP Huntsman 9.0

Glycerin - - 4.0 Glycolic acid (70%) - - 7.0 Lactic acid (90%) - - 6.0 Part B Dicaprylyl Ether Cetiol® OE BASF 3.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Tegosoft®CT Evonik 5.0 Part C Triethanolamine - - to pH 3.5 -

4.0 Preservative - - q.s

Processing Instructions Mix the ingredients of Part A and warm to 65 - 75°C Add the ingredients of Part B with mixing Adjust the pH to 3.5-4.0 with Triethanolamine and allow to cool. Add the preservative with mixing.

Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 25000 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months

Ref: EV/MG/2605/017 B

Formulation guidelines

A number of formulation examples have been prepared to demonstrate the versatility of Empiwax® SK/BP in skin care products, from simple hand creams to sun screens.

Hand cream This formulation used Empiwax® SK/BP to emulsify silicones and common oils.

Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate EMPIWAX® SK / BP Huntsman 7.00

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Tegosoft® OP Evonik 5.00 Cetearyl Alcohol Laurex® CS Huntsman 4.00 Dimethicone Xiameter® PMX-200 Dow Corning 3.00 Glyceryl Stearate Tegin® 4100 Evonik 2.00 Part B Aqua - - up to 100 Glycerin - - 10.00 Sodium Hydroxide - - q.s Disodium EDTA - - q.s Part C Preservative - - q.s

Fragrance Green Tea APF 107743 Arômes et Parfums q.s

Processing Instructions Heat Part A to 65-70°C Adjust pH Part B to 5.5-6.0 with 5% NaOH solution and Disodium EDTA and heat up to 65-70°C Add Part A to Part B while stirring Let the formulation cool down and add Part C

Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64, 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 47300 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months Cycle test (-10°C, RT, 50°C, RT, 24h, 3 times) Stable Centrifugation (4400 RPM, 20 min) Stable Ref: EV/MG/239-04/13

Simple cream This formulation is a simple cream using commonly used ingredients.

Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate EMPIWAX® SK / BP Huntsman 10.00

Paraffin liquid - - 8.00 Petrolatum Merkur 500 Sasol 4.00 Part B Aqua - - up to 100 Glycerin - - 3.00 Sodium Hydroxide - - q.s Disodium EDTA - - q.s Part C Preservative - - q.s

Processing Instructions Heat Part A to 65-70°C Adjust pH Part B to 5.5-6.0 with 5% NaOH solution and Disodium EDTA and heat up to 65-70°C Add Part A to Part B while stirring Let the formulation cool down and add Part C

Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64, 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 37300 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months Cycle test (-10°C, RT, 50°C, RT, 24h, 3 times) Stable Centrifugation (4400 RPM, 20 min) Stable

Ref: EV/MG/239-05-13

Hand & Foot cream

This formulation used Empiwax® SK/BP in combination with other co-emulsifiers like Glyceryl Stearate to emulsify Ethylhexyl Palmitate.

Composition

INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate EMPIWAX® SK / BP Huntsman 7.00

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Tegosoft® OP Evonik 5.00 Cetearyl Alcohol Laurex® CS Huntsman 4.00 Glyceryl Stearate Tegin® 4100 Evonik 2.00 Part B Aqua - - up to

100 Glycerin - - 3.00 Allantoin - - 1.00 Sodium Hydroxide - - q.s Part C Preservative - - q.s

Processing Instructions Heat Part A to 65-70°C Adjust pH Part B to 5.5-6.0 with 5% NaOH solution and heat up to 65-70°C Add Part A to Part B while stirring Let the formulation cool down and add Part C

Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64, 30 RPM, 1 min) ca. 27300 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months Cycle test (-10°C, RT, 50°C, RT, 24h, 3 times) Stable Centrifugation (4400 RPM, 20 min) Stable

Ref: EV/MG/239-06/13

AHA skin care cream This formulation demonstrates another example of a skin care cream with Alpha-Hydroxy-Acids.

Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate EMPIWAX® SK / BP Huntsman 8.00

Butyrospermum Parkii Lipex® L’sens AAK 3.00 Glyceryl Stearate Tegin® 4100 Evonik 1.00 Dicaprylyl Ether Cetiol® OE BASF 3.00 Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides Tegosoft®CT Evonik 5.00 Part B Aqua - - up to 100 Glycerin - - 4.00 Glycolic acid (70%) - - 7.00 Lactic acid (90%) 6.00 Part C Triethanolamine - - To pH 3.5-

4.0 Preservative - - q.s

Processing Instructions Heat up Part A-B to 65°C Add Part A to Part B while stirring Adjust the pH to 3.5-4.0 with TEA Let the formulation cool down and add Part C

Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 23300 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months

Ref: EV/MG/2605/017G

Suncare formulation Empiwax® SK/BP is used as emulsification system, it is compatible with traditional co-emulsifiers like Glyceryl Stearate and helps to solubilize or disperse UV filters in suncare applications.

Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate Empiwax® SK/BP Huntsman 8.00

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Tegosoft® OP Evonik 5.00 Glyceryl Stearate Tegin® 4100 Evonik 2.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Tegosoft® TN Evonik 3.00 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Uvinul® MC 80 BASF 3.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Parsol® 1789 DSM 2.00 Part B Aqua - - up to 100 Glycerin - - 10.00 Sodium Hydroxide - - q.s Disodium EDTA - - q.s Part C Preservative - - q.s Fragrance Orchid Arômes et Parfums q.s Processing Instructions Heat up Part A to 65-70°C Adjust pH Part B to 5.5-6.0 with NaOH solution (10%) and Disodium EDTA Add Part A to Part B while stirring Let the formulation cool down and add Part C

Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64, 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 32600 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months

Ref: EV/MG/2590/156 D

Suncare formulation Empiwax® SK/BP is used in combination with the polymeric emulsifier Empilan® DPHS to reinforce the solubilisation and dispersion of UV filters and to improve emulsion stability.

Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate Empiwax® SK/BP Huntsman 8.00

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Tegosoft® OP Evonik 5.00 PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate Empilan® DPHS Hunstman 2.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Tegosoft® TN Evonik 3.00 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Uvinul® MC 80 BASF 3.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Parsol® 1789 DSM 2.00 Part B Aqua - - up to 100 Glycerin - - 10.00 Sodium Hydroxide - - q.s Disodium EDTA - - q.s Part C Preservative - - q.s Fragrance Orchid Arômes et

Parfums q.s

Processing Instructions Heat up Part A to 65-70°C Adjust pH Part B to 5.5-6.0 with NaOH solution (10%) and Disodium EDTA Add Part A to Part B while stirring Let the formulation cool down and add Part C Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64, 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 26000 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months

Ref: EV/MG/2590/158 B

Suncare formulation Empiwax® SK/BP used in combination with Empilan® EGMS as a co-emulsifier and opacifier to reinforce emulsion stability.

Composition INCI name Trade name Supplier % w/w Part A Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium

Lauryl Sulfate Empiwax® SK/BP Huntsman 8.00

Ethylhexyl Palmitate Tegosoft® OP Evonik 5.00 Glycol Cetearate Empilan® EGMS Huntsman 2.00 C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Tegosoft® TN Evonik 3.00 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Uvinul® MC 80 BASF 3.00 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Parsol® 1789 DSM 2.00 Part B Aqua - - up to 100 Glycerin - - 10.00 Sodium Hydroxide - - q.s Disodium EDTA - - q.s Part C Preservative - - q.s Fragrance Orchid Arômes et Parfums q.s Processing Instructions Heat up Part A to 65-70°C Adjust pH Part B to 5.5-6.0 with NaOH solution (10%) and Disodium EDTA Add Part A to Part B while stirring Let the formulation cool down and add Part C Technical Data Appearance cream Viscosity (Brookfield Spindle LV 64, 6 RPM, 1 min) ca. 40000 mPa.s Stability (RT, 4°C, 40°C) Stable at least 3 months

Ref: EV/MG/2590/158 D

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