IMPORTANT: Do not damage outside stops when removing

the jamb filler pieces. The outside stops will help hold the new

picture window in place.

4. Pry jamb filler pieces from the head (FIGURE 5) and side jambs (FIGURE 6).

These pieces will not be reused.

10. Use a high-quality, clear, neutral cure, exterior, sili-

cone sealant (compatible with aluminum extrusion

and old sill and jamb) and lay continuous generous

caulk beads at locations shown in (FIGURE 11).

Caulk at intersection of stool and old sill, along top

of angle support bracket and along inside corners of

all outside stop mouldings (ITEMS 3 & 15 FIGURE

1).

Prepare The Replacement Window11. From the interior, carefully pry off the head and side

mouldings (FIGURE 12) to expose the pre-drilled

screw holes in the head and side jambs. Be careful

as these pieces will be reused. The unit, ready for

installation, should look like (FIGURE 13).

NOTE: Do not remove sill moulding.

1

4 5 6 7

2 3

Please read before you begin.

Part No. 1193175 Rev. 1 9/06 Printed in U.S.A. ©2006 Window Manufacturer

Remove Old Window1. Use a pry bar or stiff putty knife to pry side and head inside stop mouldings

away from jambs (ITEMS 3 & 19 FIGURE 1). Also see (FIGURES 2 & 3).

Handle carefully as these mouldings will be reused.

Move sash slowly and carefully to prevent glass from

shattering. Wear full protective clothing including gloves

and safety glasses.

2. Locate fasteners along edge of existing picture sash. Use either a hacksaw

or chisel to cut through fasteners.

3. Carefully remove old sash. Work it to the interior. Either push it inward from

the outside or use a pry bar around the inside edges to work it to the

interior (FIGURE 4). Safely discard old sash.

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3

FIGURE 4

Prepare The Opening

7. Measure inside width of opening between side outside stops (ITEM 15

FIGURE 1). Cut the aluminum angle support bracket to this length.

NOTE: Larger leg of angle support bracket goes down against the old sill

(FIGURE 10).

8. Using a level and the angle support bracket, find the location on the old sill

that will provide a level plane between the intersection of the stool and old sill

and the top of the angle support bracket (FIGURE 9). Mark this location.

9. While holding angle support bracket at the level

location, attach bracket securely to the old sill

using the included #8 x 1/2" Phillips pan head,

TEK SS410, white screws (FIGURE 10). Space

screws evenly along length of angle support

bracket.

• Hammer

• Electric Drill With Drill & Screw

Driver Bits

• Stiff-Bladed Putty Knife

• Pry Bar

• Hacksaw

• Finish Nails

• Nail Set

• Pliers

• Utility Knife

• Measuring Tape

• Replacement Window

(sized to your window openings)

• Sandpaper, 180 & 220 Grade or

00 Steel Wool

• Finishing Supplies (paint, stain,

varnish, primer etc.)

• Caulking Gun

• High Quality, Neutral Cure, Clear

Silicone Sealant

Tool and Material Requirements

Qty. Description

1 Window Unit

4 Installation Shims 1-1/2" x 5-7/8", Pine

4#7 x 2-1/2" Phillips Bugle Head, 2/3rds Thread, Yellow Dichromate,

Drywall Screws

4#8 x 1/2" Phillips Pan Head, With #6 Head, TEK SS410, White Head,

Full Thread, Screws

1 Angle Support Bracket

1 Installation Instructions

Weight of window and accessories will vary.

Use a reasonable number of people with

sufficient strength to lift, carry and install

window unit(s) and accessories. Always

consider site conditions and use appropriate

techniques when installing.

Falling from window opening may

result in serious injury or death.

DO NOT leave openings unattend-

ed when children are present.

Screen will not stop chil-

dren, any one or anything

from falling out window.

Keep children and objects

away from open window.

CUT HAZARD*Non-safety Glass.

*May cause serious

injuries if broken.

*Do not install where

tempered safety glass

is required.

Recognize this symbol. This is the Safety-Alert symbol. When you see this

symbol be alert to the potential for personal injury or product damage.

GeneralInstallation of your new replacement

window requires removing existing

window parts, test fitting and installing

new parts.

Typical wood window components are

shown in (FIGURE 1). Refer to this

diagram for terms used in these

instructions.

Read instructions completely before

starting any procedure.

IMPORTANT: Wear safety

glasses and always follow safe

working practices.

Optional factory-applied finishes,

either painted or stained & varnished,

should be handled with extra care to

prevent damage.

FIGURE 7

INTERIOR

JAMB FILLER

SIDEINSIDESTOP

INTERIOR

JAMB FILLER

FIGURE 6FIGURE 5

FIGURE 9

14

9

65

8

8

7

4

10

13

9

11

1

3

22122

12

INTERIOR15

16 1615

18 18

1717

9 108 9

44

5 5

1 1192021 21

2019INTERIOR

1. Drywall

2. Interior Top Casing

3. Head Inside Stop

4. Sash

5. Jamb Filler

6. Head Outside Stop

7. Head Brick Mould

8. Exterior Siding

9. Sheathing

10. Header

11. Stool

12. Sill

13. Rough Sill

14. Interior Apron

15. Side Outside Stop

16. Side Brick Mould

17. Interior Side Casing

18. Trimmer Stud

19. Side Inside Stop

20. Side Jamb

21. Shim Space

22. Head Jamb

Typical Wood Window Components

Side View

Top View

FIGURE 1

The window manufacturer reserves the right, as necessary, to change product specifications, installation

procedures, materials, prices and terms of purchase without notice.

Picture Center

Installation Instructions

Each unit ships with the following standard components:

CAULK

ANGLESUPPORTBRACKET

FIGURE 11

FIGURE 12 FIGURE 13

FIGURE 10

Customer may need to supply replacements for the following:

• Interior Casing Mouldings

• Inside Stop Mouldings

INTERIOR

NEW WINDOWFITS TIGHT &

FLUSH AGAINSTTHIS FACE

STOOL

OUTSIDESTOP

FIGURE 8

INTERIOR

JAMBFILLER

OUTSIDESTOP

HEAD

INTERIOR

JAMBFILLER

OUTSIDE STOP

5. Examine the window frame. Fix any of the following.

• Fasteners – Remove or set below frame surface with a nail set.

• Large Holes – Insulate, repair or fill to maintain weather tightness.

• Rotted or badly damaged wood – Repair or replace to maintain strength

and provide solid surface for new window fastening.

• Level, Plumb & Square – Check and fix for a better fitting new window.

• Insulate spaces where old weights or other components were removed.

Do not use expanding foam insulation.

Pre-Fit Replacement WindowNOTE: Remove all packing. Make sure sash is fully seated in frame. Clean all

loose material and dirt from opening. Remove any objects that would

damage new unit or interfere with proper fit.

6. From the interior, insert new window unit into opening (FIGURE 7) to check

fit. Unit must fit within outside stops (FIGURE 8) and sit flush against the

stop’s inside face. Remove window unit after checking fit. Make adjustments

to the opening and/or stops to obtain a good fit. A shim space of at least 1/4"

is needed on sides and top; none required at sill. With new window installed,

stool prevents shim insertion at sill.

Typical wood window components are shown in

(FIGURE 1). Refer to this diagram for terms used

in these instructions.

Install Window12. From the interior, lift the window into the

opening. Bottom inside edge rests tight

against stool and sits on sill caulking.

Outside bottom edge rests on the angle

support bracket. Outside edge of side

frames and head must butt tightly against

caulk bead applied to outside stops (FIG-

URES 14 & 15).

13. Push window firmly toward the outside to

bring it fully against the side and head

outside stops and to seat it in the caulk

bead applied earlier.

FIGURE 16

FIGURE 17

FIGURE 18

FIGURE 19

FIGURE 20

18. Insulate between new jambs and old frame with fiberglass insulation.

NOTE: If Insulation is applied as in Step 18, caulking as described in Step 19

may be eliminated.

19. Run a bead of sealant along joints where new window and old window

frames meet (FIGURE 21). Caulk along sides and head. Do not caulk atthe sill.

CAULK

20. Install the head and side mouldings removed in Step 11 (FIGURE 22).

Reuse original fasteners or appropriate size finish nails.

21. Use appropriate length finish nails and reinstall the head and side inside

stops (FIGURE 22).

NOTE: If either the inside stops or the interior casing mouldings were dam-

aged during removal, obtain and install new pieces.

Finishing Touches

• Caulk all joints and seams that require caulking

• Clean up excess caulk/sealant

• Fill all exposed nail holes with wood filler and sand lightly with 180 grit or

higher sandpaper.

• Seal all exposed wood surfaces. See following “Recommended FinishingInstructions”.

FIGURE 21

FIGURE 22

8 9 10 11

12 13 14 15

OUTSIDESTOPS

ANGLESUPPORTBRACKET

FIGURE 15

ANGLESUPPORTBRACKET

FIGURE 14

14. While holding unit in place, check

for plumb and level on interior or

exterior (FIGURE 16).

15. Using shims provided, shim at head and

side jambs (FIGURE 17) so unit is level

and plumb. Place shims between the new

jambs and the old window frame.

IMPORTANT: Apply screws

carefully so screw heads don’t

gouge the new sash stiles or rails.

16. When unit is level and plumb, secure unit

in opening with the provided #7 x 2-1/2"

Phillips bugle head dichromate drywall

screws. Install screws through the two

pre-drilled holes in the head jamb

(FIGURES 18 & 19).

NOTE: (FIGURES 18 & 19) show unit not

installed to illustrate how screws

angle upward through head and

then into framing.

17. Use the #7 x 2-1/2" Phillips bugle head

dichromate drywall screws, one on each

side, through the pre-drilled holes to

secure the side jambs to the framing

(FIGURE 20).

EXTERIOR

INTERIOR

SIDEINSIDESTOP

SIDE MOULDING

INTERIORCASING

MOULDING

Always follow chemical manufacturers’ safety instructions when using

chemicals to avoid injury or illness.

Recommended Finishing Instructions

Vinyl, aluminum, steel and fiberglass may be cleaned with mild soap and water. Hard to

remove stains and mineral deposits may be removed with mineral spirits. Factory-applied

painted surfaces can be cleaned with mild household detergents and water.

• Do NOT clean any surface with gasoline, diesel fuel, solvent based, or petroleum

based products.

• Do NOT use abrasive materials or strong acidic solutions against vinyl, aluminum,

glass, steel, fiberglass, or factory-applied finishes.

• Do NOT scrape or use tools that might damage the surface.

• Do NOT paint vinyl or aluminum surfaces.

• Do NOT use mastic-type tapes such as Duct Tape®.

NOTE: If masking tape is used on any surface to aid in painting or staining, remove

tape as soon as possible after use. Tape must be removed within 24 hours of

application.

For long term use, such as stucco applications; use tape that will release, even when

exposed to high temperatures for an extended period of time. (Examples include 3M

#2080 and #2090 tapes.)

Before Starting

Remove all hardware so finish can be applied more easily.

IMPORTANT: With hardware removed, seal all raw wood in the hardware

routes.

For Bare Wood Surfaces

For best results, wood must be sealed immediately upon installation or upon receipt,

especially if unit is being stored for ANY length of time.

1. Remove all construction and adhesive label residue with mineral spirits before

applying finish.

2. Lightly sand surfaces being finished with 180 grit or finer sandpaper. Be careful not to

scratch the glass.

3. After sanding, clean-off sanding dust using a tack cloth.

-If a painted surface is desired:

• If a wood unit is delivered with factory-applied primer paint, it may be painted

without repriming, providing the finish paint coat is applied within six (6) months

of unit installation.

• If a factory-primed wood unit requires repriming contact your customer service representa-

tive for help in selecting a primer compatible with the factory applied material.

• Factory-applied AccentialsTM color system finishes in standard, designer or custom

colors do not require additional painting. For “touch up” paint specifications contact

your customer service representative.

1. An unprimed wood unit requires priming. Use only oil-based primer. Use compatible oil or

water-based finish coats. Refer to the primer and paint manufacturers’ instructions.

2. When priming bare wood or repriming, cover all exposed wood surfaces. Priming all

exposed surfaces helps prevent end splitting, warping and/or checking.

3. Once primed, apply two (2) coats of paint (again on all exposed sides) to each item.

-If stained wood surface is desired:

If no sealer is applied over stain, the wood will weather very rapidly and

defects will occur. Apply at least two (2) coats of sealer.

1. Use only oil-based stain. A gel stain is easier to apply as it does not easily run or drip.

The clear top coats may be oil or water-based. Apply at least two top coats of sealer or

varnish.

• A pre-stain wood conditioner, applied before staining, will help softer woods like pine

absorb stain more evenly. Apply both wood conditioner and desired stain according to the

manufacturers’ instructions.

2. Apply one (1) coat of sealer to the stained surface and let dry. Using a spar (marine) var-

nish as a sealer provides extra protection against sunlight and moisture. Let sealer dry

completely.

3. Before applying the next finish coat, make sure the previous coat is completely dry. Then

lightly sand previous finish coat with 180 grit or finer sandpaper. Clean off all sanding dust

and wipe surfaces with a tack cloth.

4. Apply next coat of desired finish to surface and let dry. Apply only one coat at a time.

5. For any additional coats of finish, repeat steps 3 and 4.

-For a clear (natural) wood finish: Follow Steps 1, 2, and 3 under “Bare Wood” and Steps 2,

3, 4, and 5 under “stained surface”.

For best service life reapply top coat every year, following previous instructions for second

coat application.

Window Sash (Does not apply to picture center units)All active and removable sash, must be removed from the window frame after installation so

they can be properly sealed (FIGURE 23).

Both clad and wood units have bare wood that is exposed. Paint or varnish these areas as

you would all of the other exposed exterior wood. Follow procedures outlined in

“Recommended Finishing Instructions”.

IMPORTANT: Remove sash for finishing. Apply your choice of sealer

(paint or varnish) to all exposed wood components. Do not get sealer on weather

strip or into mechanical components. Ensure bottom and top of sash are also sealed

(FIGURE 1).

A clad sliding window bottom is shown in (FIGURE 23). Exposed wood surfaces are similar

on tilt, awning and casement units.

Sealer (paint or varnish) applied to sash MUST DRY COMPLETELY

before reinstalling sash. If not dry, sash may stick in jamb liners.

Also weatherstrip and jamb liners may be damaged.

Dents or Scratches In Bare WoodIf there is a small dent or scratch in bare wood, fine sandpaper should remove

the mark. Light sanding with grade 220 sandpaper or 00 steel wool will be

required. Large dents (if wood fiber is not broken) can be lifted by applying a

small amount of water on it. After wood swells, sand lightly with grade 220

sandpaper or grade 00 steel wool.

General Maintenance1. If your unit has excess caulk around the glazing bead or on the glass, a

straight edge razor blade will remove it without damage to the glass. Use

glass cleaner to remove any residue.

2. Hardware should be cleaned or polished only in accordance with instruc-

tions packed with each product.

3. Small scratches in factory-applied stain & varnish finish can generally be

repaired with “scratch sticks” available in the stain and varnish section at

full-service hardware stores and paint centers.

Window CondensationWhen condensation first appears on windows, the natural reaction is that the

windows have failed. Generally that’s not where the problem is.

When excessive humidity is present in your home, the glass simply provides a

visible surface on which the humidity condenses. Indoor humidity levels can

be reduced by doing two things:

1. Control the sources of humidity. Vent all gas burners and clothes dryers to

the outdoors. Use kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans longer and more

often than normal.

2. Ventilate your attic. Because outside air usually contains less water vapor, it

will “dilute” humidity of inside air.

For further information on the causes and cures for window condensation, call

or write the window manufacturer.

ALUMINUMCLADDING

WOOD TO BESEALED

SASHROLLER

SASHROLLER

INTERLOCK

FIGURE 23 Sash Bottom