Practices for Environmental

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Resta, Bandinelli, Ciarapica, Dotti, Pinto, Rinaldi 193

Practices for Environmental Sustainability in the

Textile, Clothing and Leather Sectors The !talian Case

"arbara #esta

Stefano $otti

#oberto Pinto

University of Bergamo

([email protected])([email protected])([email protected])

#omeo "andinelli

#inaldo #inaldi

University of Florence

([email protected])([email protected])

%ili&&o Emanuele Ciara&ica

Polytechnic University of Marche([email protected])

Volume 20, Number 3September 2014, pp. 193-225

The fashion supply chain is one of the most polluting inustries in the !orl,

being a huge consumer of !ater, electricity an chemicals, an ischarging

massive "uantities of !astes to lan. Sta#eholers$ an customers$ pressure on

sustainability has pushe companies to transform general environmentalsustainability concepts into business practices. %o!ever, a fe! contributions

have offere a comprehensive analysis of the practices employe in the fashion

supply chain to reuce its environmental impact. &n this paper, a theoretical

frame!or# for mapping practices for environmental sustainability

implemente in the fashion system is presente. The frame!or# is then use to

analyse the &talian scenario.

'ey(ordsnvironmental sustainabilit!" #e$tile %lot&ing and 'eat&er (#%')sectors" ractices" tal!" %ontent anal!sis.

1) !ntroduction#&e uropean #e$tile" %lot&ing and 'eat&er (#%') sectors embod! several valuec&ains" essential for t&e uropean econom!. %ompanies operating in t&ese sectors areactive in t&e production and trade of te$tiles and leat&er" design" development oftec&nical te$tiles" creation of clot&ing" foot*ear and leat&er-goods" tanning of &idesand s+ins" as *ell as laundr! and dr!-cleaning services.

n 2011" t&e uropean #%' sectors accounted for over 2.5 million direct ,obs in

230"000 businesses" representing 4 of total production" of ,obs in uropeanmanufacturing" and generating a turnover of more t&an 210 billion uros (/%"2012). ccording to t&e last available disaggregated data from 2010" t&e largestactivit! *it&in t&e sector is t&e manufacture of te$tiles" *&ic& accounted for 41 ofsectorial value added. ust over one t&ird (3) of value added is generated b! t&e-2s manufacture of clot&ing" *it& t&e remainder (22) being generated b!leat&er manufacturing (urostat" 2013a urostat" 2013b urostat 2013c). ore


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19* International J. of Opers. and Quant. Management

specificall!" *it&in t&e -2" tal! is t&e principal te$tiles" clot&ing and leat&ermanufacturing ember /tate" generating 16. billion uros of value added" *&ic& ist&e e7uivalent of more t&an one t&ird (35.2) of -2 value added in t&ese sectors(urostat" 2013a urostat" 2013b urostat 2013c).

8ne of t&e do*nsides of t&is economic success stor! is represented b! t&esubstantial negative environmental footprint: across t&e #%' global suppl! c&ain(;


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Resta, Bandinelli, Ciarapica, Dotti, Pinto, Rinaldi 19+

#&e remainder of t&e paper is organiAed as follo*s. /ection 2 presents t&emet&odolog! adopted" *&ile /ection 3 describes t&e t&eoretical bac+ground of t&epaper and a s!stematic anal!sis of t&e literature related to practices forenvironmental sustainabilit! adopted b! #%' companies. /ection 4 introduces t&e

t&eoretical frame*or+" and /ection 5 presents t&e application of t&e t&eoreticalframe*or+ to t&e talian #%' companies. .

) -ethodology#&e purpose of t&e paper is to gain an understanding of t&e environmentalsustainabilit! practices adopted *it&in t&e #%' suppl! c&ain. iven t&e relativel!ne* and une$plored nature of t&e p&enomenon" t&is stud! adopts an inductiveresearc& strateg! (isen&ardt" 1969) based on 7ualitative researc& tec&ni7ues (iles

and Euberman" 1964). n doing so" t&e researc& process *as divided into t&reep&ases.

00 largest ustrian"Delgian" ;utc&" ;anis&" 9)" transforming *ritten te$t into &ig&l! reliable 7ualitativedata. n particular" it is used to anal!se if certain *ords and concepts are present*it&in te$ts. #&is +ind of anal!sis *as *idel! adopted in corporate social andenvironmental responsibilit! researc&" suc& as in ;a&lsrud (2006)" en+ins and

Ka+ovleva (200>)" aignan and =alston (2002)" ?is+anen and ?ieminen (2001)"8rlitA+! et al. (2003)" Folfe (1991). n t&is stud!" *e considered t&e environmentalpractices communicated to t&e sta+e&olders as a pro$! of t&e practices adopted b!t&e companies (ose and 'ee" 200) as it is more difficult to ma+e false declarations*&ere t&ere is t&e possibilit! of verif!ing public available information (#oms" 2002). #&e t&eoretical frame*or+" resulting from t&e combination of t&e results from bot&t&e first and t&e second p&ase" *as t&en used to guide t&e t&ird researc& p&ase.


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19. International J. of Opers. and Quant. Management

;uring t&is p&ase" t&e list of talian companies operating in t&e #%' suppl! c&ain*as retrieved from t&e ; (nalisi nformatiAAata ;elle Aiendetaliane)database" &eld and provided b! Dureau van ;i,+ t&at covers one million companiesin tal!. ; provides compre&ensive information suc& as compan! financials"

number of emplo!ees" trade description" stoc+ data for listed companies" and sofort&.


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talian #%' industr! *it& regards to sustainabilit!. n particular" *e follo*ed an apriori coding approac&" *&ere t&e categories *ere establis&ed prior to t&e anal!sis(Feber" 1990). /uc& categories correspond to t&e practices defined in t&e t&eoreticalframe*or+ during t&e first and t&e second p&ase of t&e researc&.

3) Systematic Literature #evie( on Sustainability Practices#&e first p&ase of t&e researc& consisted in developing a t&eoretical frame*or+supporting t&e anal!sis of t&e state of t&e art of t&e implementation of environmentalsustainabilit! practices *it&in t&e #%' industr!. #o t&is end" a s!stematic literaturerevie* *as conducted (#ranfield et al." 2003)" aiming to gat&er and classif! t&esustainabilit! practices documented in t&e available bod! of scientific andpractitioner literature. n contrast to a traditional narrative literature revie*" as!stematic literature revie* reduces researc&er bias concerning t&e inclusion or

e$clusion of studies" and clearl! communicates &o* t&e revie* *as performed(;e!ner and ?eel!" 2004)" allo*ing for a &ig& level of transparenc! (%ro*t&er and%oo+" 200).

#&e s!stematic literature searc& *as conducted in relevant literature databasesincluding merald" etapress" /cience ;irect" /copus" and Feb of /cience" using+e!*ords suc& as practices:" sustainabilit!:" green:" fas&ion:" te$tile:"apparel:" clot&ing:" foot*ear:" s&oes:" leat&er:. fter*ard" different filters &elped identif!ing and selecting substantivel! relevantstudies constituting t&e core set of articles for data s!nt&esis and anal!sis. #&e filters

*ere defined as follo*sB


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192 International J. of Opers. and Quant. Management

developed from t&e anal!sed papers b! generaliAation. n particular" t&e classificationproposed b! %aniato et al. (2012) *as used as a starting point. apers *ere t&enclassified accordingl!" *&ere t&e dimensions and t&e categories *ere revised duringt&e anal!sis.

3)1 $escri&tive 0nalysis

#&e bod! of literature identified comprises 4 papers. #&e time allocation of t&epublications is s&o*n in papers)

nternational ournalof ntrepreneurs&ipand /mall Dusiness(1 paper)

#%% =evie*Bt&e magaAine of t&ete$tile d!eing"printing" andfinis&ing industr!(1 paper)

%onstruction andDuilding aterials(1 paper)

/ocial =esponsibilit!

ournal (1 paper)

/uppl! c&ainmanagementB n

international ,ournal(1 paper)

# ournal

(1 paper)

nerg! %onversion

and anagement (1paper)

cological ndicators(1 paper)

ournal of =etail J'eisure ropert!(1 paper)

#L =esearc&ournal (1 paper)

Diomacromolecules(1 paper)

12013 publications refer to the period January-July only.


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ndustrial colog!(1 paper)

nternational ournalof roductionconomics (2 papers)

%lot&ing and#e$tiles =esearc&ournal(4 papers)

ndustrial crops andproducts (1 paper)

=esources" %onservationand =ec!cling (4 papers)

nternational ournalof =etail J;istributionanagement (1paper)

nternationalournal of %lot&ing/cience and#ec&nolog! (1paper)

ol!mer composites(1 paper)


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roduct designB a first set of papers refers to practices implemented to minimiset&e environmental impact b! designing sustainable products (%ur*en et al."2013


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paper" and ot&er industries (spiras and analo" 1995 Driga-/P et al." 2013%&en et al." 200> Ea!es" 2001). n t&e foot*ear and leat&er sector"


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codesignDorc&ardt et al." 2011 %ur*en et al." 2013


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sustainabilit! practices adopted b! talian #%' companies (t&ird p&ase of t&eresearc&). #&e resultant frame*or+ comprises t&e follo*ing categoriesB roducts and/ervices" /uppl! %&ain anagement" roduction rocess" %ulture" overnance.

oreover" a furt&er dimension" named ot&ers" *as introduced in order to collectot&er practices adopted b! t&e companies *&ic& could not be classified in t&eprevious ones.

Table * Top / *-S& )uropean (ompanies

Com&any Country !ndustry Su&er sector

1 ?estle / =eg/*itAerland

%onsumeroods

/iemens erman! ndustrialsndustrial oodsJ/ervices

Da!er erman!Dasicaterials

%&emicals

6 D/< / erman!

Dasic

aterials %&emicals

9 ;iageo '% .I.%onsumeroods


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optimiAation of freig&t transportation (ve&icle routing" adoption of Aero-emissionve&icles" optimiAation of utiliAation rates" *are&ousing management" etc.) is alsoincluded under t&is categor!.

Production Process#&e t&ird dimension deals *it& t&e production processes. n t&is topic are includedt&e use of / tools related to t&e production process (e.g. '%)" biotec&nologies"production performance monitoring and optimiAation" process and environmentalmanagement s!stem certification (e.g. /8 14000" /). ractices related to t&eenerg! saving (plant efficienc! optimiAation" energ! utiliAation reduction" rene*ableenerg! production and consumption" etc.)" *aste reduction (%arbon %apture and/torage" *aste management" *aste utiliAation as energ! source" etc.)" *ater (*aterutiliAation reduction" *ater rec!cling" etc.)" process materials (environment pollution

b! process materials reduction" etc.) are also included under t&is categor!.

Culture

#&is dimension deals *it& t&e introduction of training programs involving bot&internal t&an e$ternal sta+e&olders" *it& t&e goal to spread a green culture.

5overnance

#&is dimension is related to t&e initiatives *&ose goal is to manage t&e greenactivities and t&e relations&ip *it& all t&e sta+e&olders. /ustainabilit! reports"/ustainabilit! dvisor! Doard" dedicated corporate function or business unit" *ebsitededicated to green activities are all practices *&ic& are included in t&is dimension.

6thers

n t&is dimension all t&e activities *&ic& cannot be categoriAed in t&e previous ones&ave been collected (e.g. biodiversit! preservation" environment preservation" forestscreation in order compensates t&e %82 emission" air pollution reduction" remediationsites" etc.). #&e final frame*or+ t&at is depicted in #able 5 *as t&en used to map t&e talian#%' sectors and t&e practices t&at are currentl! adopted b! t&e companies operating

in t&is industr!.

Table + The Theoretical Frame!or#

Category Sub7category Practices

roducts and/ervices

roducts and/ervices

et&odologies for t&e environmental impactassessment along t&e product life c!cle (i.e." 'ife%!cle ssessment ('%)" %arbon


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se of ra* materials to decrease resource utiliAation

ac+agingac+aging reuse=ec!clable and rene*able materialsFeig&t and volume reduction

/uppl! %&ainanagement

/uppl! %&ain

/election of suppliers based on t&eir environmentalsustainabilit! attitude us&ing suppliers intoadopting sustainabilit! practices rocurementcertification

#ransportation

;istribution net*or+ optimiAation=oute optimiAationse of full-load capacit!se of alternative ve&iclesromotion and monitoring of a fuel-saving driving

roductionrocess

rocess

et&odologies for t&e environmental impact

assessment along t&e product life c!cle (i.e." 'ife%!cle ssessment ('%)" %arbon


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=ene*able 8bligation %ertificates purc&asing

+) Practices for Environmental Sustainability in the !talian

TCL Sectors#&e final frame*or+ presented in /ection 4 *as used to map t&e environmentalpractices implemented b! t&e talian companies operating in t&e #%' sectors.

+)1 The Total Sam&le

mong t&e 5>92 companies belonging to t&e final sample" 1662 firms (33) do not&ave a *ebsite. %onse7uentl!" t&e anal!sis *as focused on t&e remaining 3610companies. mong t&e latter" onl! 52> enterprises (14) &ave implemented at leastone environmental practice. #&e follo*ing grap& (.


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co-;esign 1 0 1

=a*aterials

=ec!clable" rene*able and rec!cledra* materials

22 15 1

/ourcing from sustainable sources 9 5

=eduction of &armful and to$ic ra*material use

3 1>

se of ra* materials close to t&esourcing place

2 2 1

se of ra* materials to decreaseresource utiliAation

0 1 5

ac+aging

ac+aging reuse 1 3 2

=ec!clable and rene*able materials 2 5 4

Feig&t and volume reduction 2 1 0

/uppl! %&ainanagement

/uppl!%&ain

/election of suppliers based on t&eirenvironmental sustainabilit! attitude 2 5 2us&ing suppliers into adoptingsustainabilit! practices

4 4 5

rocurement certification > 3 4

#ransportation

;istribution net*or+ optimiAation 1 5 2

=oute optimiAation 0 2 1

se of full-load capacit! 0 0 0

se of alternative ve&icles 1 3 2

romotion and monitoring of a fuel-saving driving 0 0 0

roductionrocess

rocess

et&odologies for t&e environmentalimpact assessment along t&e productlife c!cle (i.e." 'ife %!cle ssessment('%)" %arbon

nerg!anagement

fficient processes and buildings 1> 19 20

nerg! production from rene*ableresources

15 1 0

se of energ! from rene*ableresources

1 9 >

nerg! demand management 0 6

Fasteanagement

%arbone %apture and /torage (%%/) 0 0 1

/crap elimination 4 0 0

=eduction of *aste and air emissions 13 4 2EaAardous *aste reduction 1 9 9

Faste disposal 6 1 2

Faste recover! and reuse > 1 11

Faste use for energ! production 0 > 6


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Fateranagement

Fater consumptionreduction 0 0

Fater *aste treatment 12 > 9

Fater rec!cling and reuse 4 2 14

rocessingaterials

fficient resource utiliAation 2 5 =eduction of to$ic and &armful

processing materials11

revention from environmentalcontamination

0 12

%ulture

nternal involvement 3 1 1

romotion of a sustainabilit! culture(internall! and e$ternall!)

9 4 12

/ta+e&older involvement andpartners&ip *it& associations" localcommunities" etc.

10 >

%ustomer involvement 4 16 >

overnance

;ocumentation and reports 2 3

;edicated business unitGfunction 2 5 >

;edicated *ebsite 0 1 0

8t&ers

Diodiversit! preservation 1 2 1

%limate c&ange preservation 1 1 1

1 companies" profiled b! sub-division (#able 1)" is s&o*nin 1 companies belonging to t&e sample" 1106 firms (42) do not&ave a *ebsite. %onse7uentl!" t&e anal!sis *as focused on t&e remaining 1509


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companies. mong t&e later" onl! 322 enterprises (12) &ave implemented at leastone practice" profiled b! sub-divisions as s&o*n in #able .

Table 'pplication of at 0east 1ne Sustainability Practice 2 *istribution by Sub*ivision

13

)1

13

)

13

)3

13

)*

of companies t&at &ave implemented at least one practice16

23

1

42

Fit&in eac& sub-division" t&e percentage of companies t&at adopt at least onepractice ranges from 9 (sub-division 13.2) to 15 (sub-division 13.9). #&isanal!sis s&o*s t&at t&ere is not a predominant sub-division *&ere companies appearmore prone to adopt sustainabilit! practices. 8n t&e contrar!" t&e lo* percentages of

application confirm a limited commitment of te$tile companies to*ards t&eimplementation of environmental sustainabilit! concept in t&e business strateg! andactivities. #&e sample of companies t&at &ave adopted at least one practice *as t&en profiledon t&e basis of t&e compan! siAe. #&e /mall and edium nterprise (/)definition provided b! t&e uropean %ommission (uropean %ommission" 2005) *asadopted. n particular" t&e annual turnover (#) t&res&old *as considered. #&epercentage of companies t&at &ave adopted at least one practice increases movingfrom micro to large (. #&epractice most adopted b! te$tile companies is roduct certification: (46)" *it&

particular reference toB i) 8e+o-#e$ /tandard 100 testing for &armful substances ii)/eri.co t&at guarantees t&e absence of substances to$ic or &armful in sil+ fabrics andiii) colabel t&at identifies products &aving a reduced environmental impactt&roug&out t&eir life c!cle" from t&e e$traction of ra* material t&roug& to production"use and disposal. =emaining in t&e roduct and /ervice categor!" discrete attention ispaid also to t&e selection of eco-friendl! ra* materials (22 of t&e companies) t&atare rec!clable" rene*able andGor t&at come from rec!cled products" for e$ample for


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used clot&es or # bottles. lso rocess %ertification: is implemented b! 22 oft&e sample" *it& reference to t&e /8 14001B2004 and t&e co-anagement andudit /c&eme (/). nerg! efficienc! and production of energ! from rene*ableresources" suc& as solar and *ind po*er are applied" respectivel!" b! 1> and 15

of t&e compan!. #&e ot&er practices implemented b! more t&an 10 of t&e te$tilefirms are =eduction of *aste and air emissions: (13)" Fater *aste treatment:(12)" =eduction of to$ic and &armful processing materials: (11) and co-friendl! products and services:. ac+aging" suppl! c&ain and transportationpractices" as *ell as t&e governance of sustainabilit!" are basicall! neglected b!te$tile companies. #&e distribution of t&e practice adoption per siAe is s&o*n in


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%igure .'options of )nvironmental Sustainability Practices by Te4tile (ompanies 2

*istribution by Sub*ivision

+)3 The Clothing Sector#&e second sector anal!sed is classified as ?% ;ivision 14" and it includes all t&ecompanies *or+ing in t&e *earing apparel and clot&ing industr!. #&e final samplecounts of 1529 companies" classified as in (9) &as

implemented at least one practice" profiled b! sub-division as s&o*n in #able 6.

Table 2'pplication of at 0east 1ne Sustainability Practice 2 *istribution by Sub*ivision

1*

)1

1*

)

1*

)3

of companies t&at &ave implemented at least one practice69

0

11


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s for t&e division 13" t&e sample of t&e companies *as t&en profiled according tot&eir dimension. s s&o*n in


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14.3 ?% classifications (anufacture of +notted and croc&eted apparel) resultsmore interested in green initiatives" t&ere is not an! significant evidence.

%igure 14'option of )nvironmental Sustainability Practices by (lothing (ompanies 2*istribution by Sub*ivision

+)* The Leather Sector

#&is sector deals *it& t&e manufacture of leat&er products and is classified as ?%;ivision 15. Fit&in t&is division" companies operate in t&e tanning and dressing"manufacture of luggage" &andbags" foot*ear and in general an! final items mainl!made *it& leat&er. #&e final sample is composed b! 154> companies (small" mediumand large)" profiled b! sub-division according to companies belonging to t&e sample" 369 firms (25) do not &avet&e *ebsite. #&is *a!" t&e anal!sis *as carried out on a sample of 115 firms.mong t&em" onl! 106 enterprises (9) &ave implemented at least one practice"profiled b! sub-divisions as s&o*n in #able 9.

Table 9'pplication of at 0east 1ne Sustainability Practice 2 *istribution by Sub*ivision

1+

)1

1+

)

of companies t&at &ave implemented at least one practice

>9

31


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of leat&er companies to*ards t&e implementation of environmental sustainabilit!concept in t&e business strateg! and activities comes out from t&e anal!sis. #&e sample of t&e companies t&at &ave adopted at least one practice *as profiledon t&e basis of t&e compan! siAe" and t&e results are reported in


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Fater management:. 8n t&e ot&er &and" companies belonging to t&e 15.2 sub-division (foot*ear) are more prone to adopt practices related to nerg!management: in comparison *it& t&e previous ones.

%igure 1*'option of )nvironmental Sustainability Practices by 0eather (ompanies 2

*istribution by Sub*ivision

+)+ $iscussion

;espite t&e e$plorator! and descriptive nature of t&e researc&" some observationscould be proposed. s a general result" t&e proposed classification frame*or+&ig&lig&ted t&e rat&er scattered approac& to t&e implementation and communicationof sustainabilit! practices in t&e #%' sectors. nal!sing t&e percentage ofimplementation bot& inside eac& sector and across t&e sectors" it does not emerge aprevalent consensus on t&e main practices to be implemented. #&erefore" all t&e t&reesectors present a limited commitment to*ards t&e implementation of sustainabilit!practices" *it& fe* e$ceptions.


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t&at companies belonging to 15.2 are usuall! bigger" in terms of number ofemplo!ees and turnover" t&an t&e ones belonging to 15.1. #&e dimensional factorcould e$plain t&e predominance of t&e practice culture:. =egarding t&e apparelsector (;ivision 14)" no significant differences emerge bet*een t&e sub-division.

?otabl!" t&e suppl! c&ain area appears as one of t&e most uncovered" especiall! in/s" despite t&e role globaliAation &as assumed in t&e last recent !ears. #&isincreasing globaliAation &as at least t*o ma,or impacts" from t&e sustainabilit!standpoint.


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54. ac7ues" . ." and uimarYes" '. D. (2012)" stud! of material compositiondisclosure practices in green foot*ear products:"5or#> ' -ournal of Prevention,'ssessment an 9ehabilitation" Mol. 41" pp. 2101-2106.

55. en+ins" E." and Ka+ovleva" ?. (200>)" %orporate social responsibilit! in t&e

mining industr!B $ploring trends in social and environmental disclosure:"-ournal of (leaner Prouction" Mol. 14(?o. 3)" pp. 21-264.5>. ose" ." and 'ee" /. . (200)" nvironmental reporting of global

corporationsB a content anal!sis based on *ebsite disclosures:" -ournal ofBusiness )thics" Mol. 2(?o. 4)" pp. 30-321.


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5. Ialliala" ." and #alvenmaa" . (2000)" nvironmental profile of te$tile *etprocessing in 4. one!" %. . (2010)" 'eat&er For+ing roup udit %onsiderations:"-ournalof the Society of 0eather Technologists an (hemists" Mol. 94(?o. 5)" pp. 165-169.

>5. ut&u" /./." 'i" K." Eu" .K." and o+" .K. (2012)" Nuantification ofenvironmental impact and ecological sustainabilit! for te$tile fibers:")cological &nicators" Mol. 13(?o. 1)" pp. >>-4.

>>. ?eu" ;." Farsame" E." and ed*ell" I. (1996)" anaging public impressionsBenvironmental disclosures in annual reports:" 'ccounting, 1rgani3ations anSociety" Mol. 23(?o. 3)" pp. 2>5-262.

>. ?is+anen" ." and ?ieminen" #. (2001)" #&e ob,ectivit! of corporateenvironmental reportingB a stud! of 3C3.

2. eng" F.'." Nin" O.D." O&ang" F.?." and #an" .. (2011)" =esearc& on t&epplication of reen #ec&nolog! to 'eat&er /&oes in t&eir 'ife %!cle:" 7ey)ngineering Materials" Mol. 460" pp. 1221-1224.


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International J. of Opers. and Quant. Management

3. &ong" . (2006)"ore t&an *ords:"'T' -ournal" Mol. 19(?o. 3)" pp. 100-1134. oole" .." %&urc&" ./. and Euson" .. (2006)" nvironmentall! sustainable

fibers from regenerated protein:"Biomacromolecules" Mol. 10(?o. 1)" pp. 1-6.5. o*er" .. (2012)" /ustainable developments in +nitting:" &nternational

-ournal of Business an @lobalisation" Mol. 9(?o. 1)" pp. 1-11.>. Nian" '." and EinestroAa" .. (2004)" pplication of nanotec&nolog! for &ig&

performance te$tiles:" -ournal of Te4tile an 'pparel, Technology anManagement" Mol. 4(?o. 1)" pp. 1-.

. =ebitAer" ." +vall" #." .

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assessment of man-made cellulose fibers:" 9esources, (onservation an9ecycling" Mol. 55(?o. 2)" pp. 2>0-24.6. /&en" '." Forrell" ." and atel" .I. (2010b)" 8pen-loop rec!clingB '%

case stud! of # bottle-to-fibre rec!cling:" 9esources, conservation anrecycling" Mol. 55(?o. 1)" pp. 34-52.

66. /&is&oo" =. (d.) (200)" Plasma technologies for te4tiles" Dosa =ocaB %=%ress nc.


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69. /ivarama+ris&nan" %.?. (200)" nsig&ts into specialt! c&emicalsB loo+ at t&evarious c&emicals and au$iliaries used in te$tile *et processing:" (olourage"Mol. 54(?o. 2)" pp. >0->2.

90. /later" I. (2003)")nvironmental &mpacts of Te4tiles> Prouction, Processes, an

Protection" %ambridge" IB Foodbridge ublis&ing 'imited.91. /t!les" ;." /c&oenberger" E." and alveA-artos" .'. (2012)" nvironmental

improvement of product suppl! c&ainsB revie* of uropean retailersperformance:"9esources, (onservation an 9ecycling" Mol. >5" ?o. 5-6.

92. /vensson" . (200)" spects of sustainable suppl! c&ain management(//%)B conceptual frame*or+ and empirical e$ample:" Supply (hainManagement> an &nternational -ournal" Mol. 12(?o. 4)" pp. 2>2-2>>.

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100.Faite" . (2009)" /ustainable te$tilesB t&e role of bamboo and a comparison ofbamboo te$tile properties - art 1:" -ournal of Te4tile an 'pparel, Technologyan Management" Mol. >(?o. 2)" pp. 1-21.

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* International J. of Opers. and Quant. Management

104.Folfe" =. (1991)" #&e use of content anal!sis to assess corporate socialresponsibilit!:"9esearch in (orporate Social Performance an Policy" Mol. 12"pp. 261-30.

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2412.

0bout 0uthors

"arbara #estagot a aster ;egree in anagement ngineering (2006) and a &.;.in 'ogistics and /uppl! %&ain anagement (2012) at t&e niversit! of Dergamo*it& a dissertation on t&e servitiAation p&enomenon. ;uring &er studies s&e *asenrolled in t&e aster of ngineering in 'ogistics J /uppl! %&ain anagement at#-OaragoAa 'ogistics %enter (/pain) in 2009. #&e follo*ing !ear s&e spent asemester at t&e %ranfield /c&ool of anagement (I). /ince 2012" s&e is a=esearc& ssistant at t&e ;epartment of ngineering of t&e niversit! of Dergamo.%urrentl!" s&e is involved in researc& activities related to t&e application ofsustainabilit! principles to t&e te$tile sector.

#omeo "andinelliac&ieved &is Dac&elor ;egree in ec&anical ngineering and &is

&.;. in ndustrial ngineering at


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Resta, Bandinelli, Ciarapica, Dotti, Pinto, Rinaldi +

Stefano $otti &olds a aster degree in anagement and conomics at t&eniversit! of Dergamo in 1962. /ince 2002" &e is =esearc&er and 'ecturer atniversit! of Dergamo" *&ere &e teac&es #e$tile aterials: and #e$tile ndustr!

#ec&nolog!: in t&e anagement ngineering degree course (anagement in#e$tile J

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