3/13/2014 Ancient Craft - prehistoric clothes http://www.ancientcraft.co.uk/reenactment/prehistoric_clothes.html 1/9 Prehistoric Clothing Neanderthal were the first known humans to make clothes, although there is no clear evidence for the very first clothing.It is assumed that at some point, Neanderthals learned how to use the thick hides animals they hunted, to keep themselves warm and dry. Cro-Magnon man made advances in the clothing of the Neanderthals, by using sharp awls or pointed tools, they were able to punch small holes in animal skins and then simply lace them with sinew and other natural cordage. It is likely that a tunic was first made from two pieces of rectangular animal hide bound together on one short side with a hole left for the head. This rough garment was placed over the head and the stitched length lay on the shoulders, with the remainder hanging down. The arms stuck through the open sides and the tunic was either closed with a belt or similar. The oldest bone and ivory sowing needles with eyelets (from 30,000 - 40,000BC) were found at a group of more than 20 sites along the Don River near the villages of Kostenki and Borshevo, 250 miles south of Moscow. Probably the best example of a complete set of prehistoric clothes is that belonging to the 5,300 year old Ötzi the Iceman found in the Alps in 1991. During the summer of 2005, I was able to visit South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano (Northern Italy) to see Ötzi and his artefacts for myself. The hides, bones, antlers and feathers of six different animal species and the leaves, wood and fibre of 17 different trees and shrubs can be seen in the making of his clothing and equipment. Belt As there was no sign of fasteners, it is assumed that the Iceman’s upper clothing was tied with a belt that was originally about 2m long (it was in several pieces when found) reaching around his hips twice. At the centre was a 20cm x 6cm pouch, stitched with hide lacing that went completely around the pouch, except for a 7cm opening in the center at the top edge. It also had a 15m long lace attached to one side to tie it closed. The belt pouch contained 3 flint tools (made from similar, if not identical flint), 1 bone awl and a lump of tinder fungus: 1. Scraper: It has a thick triangular cross-section and has been worked on all edges and there are traces of "sickle gloss", indicating that it was used in cutting grasses or grain stalks. 2. Drill: It has a square cross section that is much broader and thicker at one end tapering to a fine point. This makes it ideal for hand drilling or it could have been hafted to a shaft. 3. Small flake: This small fragment would have been difficult to hold but its thin edge would allow for fine carving, notching. 4. Bone awl: probably made from the long leg bone of a goat, sheep or ibex, it has a curved cross section at the center with one end finely worked to a point, the other being slightly rounded. The point was sharp enough for making holes to repair his clothing. 5. Tinder fungus (Fomes fomentarius): consists of four pieces which A N C I E N T C R A F T S I D E M E N U
Neanderthal were the first known humans to make clothes, although there is no clear evidence for the very first clothing.It isassumed that at some point, Neanderthals learned how to use the thick hides animals they hunted, to keep themselves warm anddry.
Cro-Magnon man made advances in the clothing of the Neanderthals, by using sharp awls or pointed tools, they were able to punchsmall holes in animal skins and then simply lace them with sinew and other natural cordage. It is likely that a tunic was first madefrom two pieces of rectangular animal hide bound together on one short side with a hole left for the head. This rough garment wasplaced over the head and the stitched length lay on the shoulders, with the remainder hanging down. The arms stuck through theopen sides and the tunic was either closed with a belt or similar.
The oldest bone and ivory sowing needles with eyelets (from 30,000 - 40,000BC) were found at a group of more than 20 sites alongthe Don River near the villages of Kostenki and Borshevo, 250 miles south of Moscow.
Probably the best example of a complete set of prehistoric clothes is that belonging to the 5,300 year old Ötzi the Iceman found inthe Alps in 1991. During the summer of 2005, I was able to visit South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology in Bolzano (Northern Italy) tosee Ötzi and his artefacts for myself. The hides, bones, antlers and feathers of six different animal species and the leaves, woodand fibre of 17 different trees and shrubs can be seen in the making of his clothing and equipment.
Belt
As there was no sign of fasteners, it is assumed that the Iceman’s upperclothing was tied with a belt that was originally about 2m long (it was in severalpieces when found) reaching around his hips twice. At the centre was a 20cm x6cm pouch, stitched with hide lacing that went completely around the pouch,except for a 7cm opening in the center at the top edge. It also had a 15m longlace attached to one side to tie it closed. The belt pouch contained 3 flint tools(made from similar, if not identical flint), 1 bone awl and a lump of tinder fungus:
1. Scraper: It has a thick triangular cross-section and has been worked onall edges and there are traces of "sickle gloss", indicating that it wasused in cutting grasses or grain stalks.
2. Drill: It has a square cross section that is much broader and thicker atone end tapering to a fine point. This makes it ideal for hand drilling or it
could have been hafted to a shaft.
3. Small flake: This small fragment would have been difficult to hold but itsthin edge would allow for fine carving, notching.
4. Bone awl: probably made from the long leg bone of a goat, sheep oribex, it has a curved cross section at the center with one end finelyworked to a point, the other being slightly rounded. The point was sharpenough for making holes to repair his clothing.
5. Tinder fungus (Fomes fomentarius): consists of four pieces which
5. Tinder fungus (Fomes fomentarius): consists of four pieces whichwhen put together, are about 5cm square. Microscopic analysis of thetinder fungus in the pouch showed traces of iron pyrite particles in itsfibrous structure, although no pyrite was discovered near the Iceman orhis equipment.
Leggings
Above his shoes, the iceman was covered with twoseparate leather stocking-like leggings that wereattached to his belt and fitted loosely around histhighs and lower legs.
Each legging was around 65cm in length and weremade of several pieces of goat hide with a deerskinstrap sewn onto one end that could be tied downwhen doing up the shoes, preventing the leggingsfrom riding up.
The leggings were worn with brown hair side out.
Similar leggings were also worn by North AmericanIndians well into the 19th century.
Loincloth
Among the various finds was a 50cm x 33cm leather strip and another smaller fragment,which is believed to be his loincloth. Originally about thought to be about 1.8m long, theIceman’s loincloth consisted of long, narrow strips of goat hide joined by over-sewing withanimal sinews. Both ends of the loincloth were slightly rounded and towards the centre ittapers about 23cm. The edges of the loincloth were not finished off.
The loincloth would have been drawn between the Iceman’s legs and fastened at the frontand back with his belt.
This fragment was probably the front bib of the loincloth, because all the clothes, theIceman was wearing face-up, have been preserved better. The back part of his clothing wereexposed to the elements unprotected and therefore largely destroyed.
Such lumbar or pull-through loincloths were used by the North American Indians.
When he was discovered, the Iceman was wearing only his right shoe. The shoes were made of various materials including animalskins and hay:
The leather sole was made from brown bear hide that had been cured in a mixture of bear brains and fat from its liverDeer leather formed the upper guard that helped prevent rain/snow entering the shoe and unlike the sole, the uppers wereworn with the fur on the outsideThe upper shoe was mounted on a mesh of braided linden barkThe sole bindings were made of calf leatherStraw and moss was used for insulation/lining
Ötzi’s are the second oldest known shoes - the oldest being a 5,500-year-old moccasin-like shoe (called the Areni-1 shoe) thatwas found during a dig in an Armenian cave in 2008. It is exceptionally well preserved because of the dry conditions in the caveand a thick layer of sheep dung which acted as a solid seal. Sandals have an even longer history, with the oldest specimens,dated to more than 7,000 years ago, discovered in the Arnold Research Cave in central Missouri.
In 2004 Czech researcher Dr. Petr Hlavacek from Tomas Bata University, made a number of replicas to determine how well theshoes functioned. After a 12 mile distance to the glacier where Otzi was found., Hlavacek said that the grass worked very well asan insulator and wicked moisture away from his feet. Hlavacek told Discover magazine that when he stepped into a stream he feltno discomfort, “The shoes were full of water but after three seconds it was very warm” and had a “comfortable feeling. This isbecause this layer of hay if full of air holes and air is the best warm insulation.” Further experiments by archaeologist AnneReichert reveal that a leather strip running across the sole provided a surprisingly good grip on icy ground, but the soles were notwaterproof.
Two other theories have emerged; one from Professor Willy Groenman-van Waateringe.
The other theory is from experimental Archaeologist Jacqui Wood, who believes that Ötzi's shoes may have been the upper part ofsnowshoes and that the item currently interpreted as part of his backpack, is actually the wood frame and netting of one snowshoe
The coat was made of long, numerous rectangular strips of goat skin that werejoined by over-sewing on the inside, with animal sinews used as thread. Theoblong, square cut pieces were arranged so that the robe was a pattern ofvertical, alternating light and dark stripes. At shoulder height, the strips weresewn in a horizontal direction.
The coatt is approximately 95cm long, extending from the shoulders to theknees. On the front of the garment was almost certainly open because of thecloak in the open state has a width of 138cm, which means that the twoirregularly cut fronts overlap. There is no evidence that the coat was closed andheld together with any fixings. In all likelihood a simple belt or cord would beused to tie the coat at the waist.
No pieces of the shoulders of the garment were ever recovered, so there is somespeculation as to whether the Iceman’s coat had sleeves. The upper garmentlikely reached down to the Iceman’s knees
HAT: The iceman wore a 20cm tall hat on his head, made of fourindividually cut pieces of brown bear (Ursus arctos) fur, stitched inthe overcast technique. It included leather straps, which might haveserved as a chin strap. It was found near his body in the glacier andunlike the other items of clothing made of fur, the cap remained largelyintact.
The lower part of the hat consists of a single 52cm x 7.5cm wide stripof bear skin, which is sewn together along the narrow sides. Two 9cmwedge-shaped strips of bear skin are sewn to the lower part of the hatto form a hemispherical shape. The top centre of the hat is formed froma pointed oval piece of fur, 11cm x 3.5cm.
At the bottom of the cap are two holes through which the two 8 to 9mmwide leather straps are pulled and knotted.
GRASS CAPE: The Iceman’s cape was made of 1m long stalks ofplaited/braided reed-like Alpine grass. The original length is thought tohave been about 90cm and would have covered the his entire torso andhis thighs and was open in front and may have had slits for his arms,but no evidence remained for this.
The upper edge of the cape is in a simple Binding twine braided. At thisedge on a regular intervals of 6-7cm, several grass strings wereattached, but whose function is unknown.
During further investigations of the glacier where Ötzi's body was found,the remains of three large grass plaits/braids were found, leading to theconclusion that the iceman had put his coat before he died.
A grass cape is very verstile: it can be easily put on and removed,particularly in wet weather, as grass and straw braids are highly water-repellent. It can be used as a kind of insulation mat on damp ground, ora blanket at night. It can even serve as camouflage during a hunt.Some Alpine shepherds wore grass and straw cloaks for rain protectioninto the 20th century.
Prehistoric"styled" clothing(and weapons -Holmegaardbow/arrow & axe)that I typicallywear during LivingHistory displays.
Shoes
My prehistoric "styled" shoes are anintpretation of Otzi the Iceman's footwear,made with a leather sole, goat hide upper,plaited/braided grass mesh and stuffed withhay and moss.
My interpretation of the Shaman headdress from the grave found in Bad Dürrenberg in the 1930's.
The replica of the Shaman headdress is made from similar animal bones, as found in the German grave:the skin is coyote (Canis latrans); the antlers are from a European roe deer (Capreolus capreolus); twolarge wild boar tusks (Sus scrofa) appear on either side and below are hung bone beads, neolithic stonebeads and six wolf fangs (Canis lupus). Around the brim of the headdress are 18 waterbuffalo (Bubalus bubalis) teeth and goose feathers complete the look. The necklace is made from sevenlarge wild boar tusks (Sus scrofa) and severn water buffalo (Bubalus bubalis) teeth attached to leatherstrips.
Jewellery
Humans may have been wearing jewelry as far back as 75,000 BP, about 30,000 years earlier than previously thought, if 41shells found at Blombos Cave in South Africa prove to have been used as beads. The shells are from a tinymollusk, Nassarius kraussianus, that lived in a nearby estuary. They have perforations and wear marks consistent with beingused as beads, according to scientists excavating the middle Stone Age site.
I often combine several different types of material that would have been available during prehistory, to create interesting anddecorative necklaces >> please contact me if you would like to purchase one.
Necklace 1: Made from wolfteeth, amber beads, animalhorn, yellow periwinkleseashells (Littorina littorea)and authentic neolithicbeads from the Saharadesert
Necklace 2: Made fromanimal horn andcommon periwinkleseashells (Littorinalittorea)
Necklace 3: Made from a wolftooth's, animal horn beanand authentic neolithic beadsfrom the Sahara desert
Dwelling
My (portable) 3m diameterreconstruction of a stoneage dwelling is made with ahazel wood domed-frame,covered with 38 deer hides.
