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Man, this year is off to a fast start. We started off with a great demo from Russ Fillbeck, and Greg has someone as equally fascinating for our February meeting, so you’re not going to want to miss this one. Did I say this year is going by fast, well, before you know it the deadline for our Fine Art Wood-working Show at the OC Fair will be upon us, and I bet you haven’t even started your project yet? Remember what the Ol’ Prez says about your fair entries. Finish the inside as good as the outside, finish the front as good as the back, and finish bottom as good as the top, and good things will happen at the fair.

Show and Tell Our show and tell table has been a little sparse the past few months, and we really want to see what you’ve been up to in your shop. Putting your stuff out there is a good way to get feedback on what you’re doing if you’re a begin-ner, and for the more experienced woodworker, it’s a good way to give the newcomers some insight on how to improve their woodworking. It’s a win-win situation, so come on, and bring your pieces in so we can enjoy them with you.

Got Elves? As I mentioned previously in this article time is flying by, and our Head Elf, Mr. Bill Rogers of the OCWA Christmas Toy Program has a tough row to hoe in getting all those toys ready for next Christmas, and he could use a few good elves to help get the job done. If you know any elves, or if you found a funny green outfit in your closet, maybe you’re ready to make some toys. Just see Bill at our next meeting, and I’m sure he will put you to work.

Chili Cookoff Our friend, and fellow Board member, Mr. Ollie Vaughan, is lining up a booth for the Tustin Chili Cookoff this

summer. We won’t be making any Chili though, but we will be doing demos, and selling donated wooden items to try, and bring in a little more dough to help with the Pen, and Toy programs amongst other things. Please check out Ollie’s article in the Newsletter.

Newcomer Safety If you have recently decided that you want to start woodworking, and you’ve gone out, and bought a whole bunch of new tools, but you don’t have a whole lot of experience, Plllleeeeeaaaaassssse (please) find a beginning woodwork-ing course at a local community college, and learn the basics. Especially learn as much as you can about safety. We really want you to enjoy your wood-working, but we also want you to keep all your digits.

- James Santhon

Volume 31Volume 31 Issue 2Issue 2 February 2014February 2014

I N T H I S I S S U E

President’s Message 1

Woodworkers’ Sawdust 2

Woodturners’ Shavings 3

Calendar of Events 3

Show and Tell 5

Toy Story 6

Freedom Pen Project 7

The Scrap Bin 9

Meeting Dates 12

President’s MessagePresident’s Message James SanthonJames Santhon

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Hi all! Judging by the full house we had at the January meeting and the great comments we received about the speaker’s presentation, It was a huge hit! Many club members, in-cluding myself, were glued to every word of Russ Filbeck as he shared with us his knowl-edge on building and using wooden spokeshaves. His contributions to the world of wood-working, especially through his chair making, and tool design, was inspirational and infor-mative.

Your 2013-14 board and membership has been working hard to bring you the most interesting presenta-tions possible. I appreciate all those who have given me leads on interesting speakers. Looking ahead, we have some fantastic speakers, from all over the West, coming to share with us. Jumping to March, we are lucky to Host Greg Dahl from Oregon Burls who will be driving down from Oregon with a couple tons of burl to sell exclusively to our club members. So bring your wallet and your imagination as Greg talks about hunting burls in the forests of the Pacific Northwest. Greg just finished filming with National Geographic for a show which will prominently feature him as he zip lines 2000lb. burls off of forested mountainsides and then mills them into useable lumber. Our April spot is still open as of press time. Our May Speaker will be John Dominguez of West Coast Arborists. He’ll be sharing with us their Logs to Lumber program which takes urban trees and turns them into lumber for woodworkers like us.

To get a sneak peek of our February Speaker, look no farther than the cover of the latest issue of Woodworker West. Frank Cummings lll is a retired Asso-ciate Dean of the School of the Arts at Cal State Fullerton. His work has been featured in galleries across the country since the seventies, and one of his clocks resides in the permanent collection at the Boston Fine Art Museum. His work can be seen right now at Frank’s hometown museum, the Art Museum of Long Beach. I had the honor of attending a presentation there on January 16, 2014. The standing room only crowd listened to Frank’s story, and asked many questions which he happily answered. It was a joy to listen to Frank talk about his trips to Africa, his meeting with Mr. & Mrs. Clinton, and his struggle with dyslexia. I HIGHLY recommend you get down and see his one of a kind vessel work and tall clock, which is the star of the show, before it ends on Feb-ruary 23rd. Seeing it live just solidifies why Frank has been categorized with the likes of Sam Maloof. Did I mention he carved every gear in this tall clock, used African porcupine quills, inset many gemstones and gold embellish-ments, and it took him over 4 years (full time) to build?! Make sure to be there at the February OCWA general meeting to hear & see Frank!

- Greg

• C L U B O F F I C E R S & C O M M I T T E E S •

Board of Directors Club Committees Woodturners Committees

President James Santhon 949-481-2821 Badges Len Musgrave 714-532-4778 Outside Programs Bill Haskell 714-528-4783

Vice President Greg Madrigal 714-539-1818 Mentor Chairman Fred Wilmott 949-367-6671 Challenge Ross Gilroy 714-680-4570

Treasurer Ralph Crowther 949-588-2922 Webmaster Larry Marley 949-412-6710 Special Projects Jerry Nininger 949-631-7530

Secretary Jerry Nininger 949-631-7530 Toy Program Bill Rogers 714-637-2912 Pen Projects John Marshall 949-582-2997

Turners President Robin Hoff 714-505-2688 Refreshments Jim Steinmetz 714-842-8793 Audio/Video Ralph Alder 714-614-4461

Public Affairs Larry Marley 949-412-6710 Resources George Plummer 714-540-4527 50/50 Drawing Al Whitcomb 714-931-0555

Director at Large John Marshall 949-582-2997 Library Ollie Vaughan 949-278-5939 50/50 Drawing Bill Rogers 714-637-2912

2nd Director at Large Ollie Vaughn 949-278-5939 Welcome Art Dunbar 714-536-4568 Refreshments Jim Steinmetz 714-842-8793

Director at Large Al Missbrenner 562-866-2873 Newsletter David Tilson 714-330-4786 Wood Supplies Jeanette Gonzales 562-417-7750

Property Master Ralph Alder 714-614-4461

Woodworkers’ SawdustWoodworkers’ Sawdust Greg MadrigalGreg Madrigal

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January was a great month for the OCWT. We had a capacity crown attend the regular Thursday night meeting. Everyone seemed to enjoy an excellent presentation by Bill Haskell on the twists and turns of working with green wood. Our contests and challenges chairman Ross Gilroy has thrown down the gauntlet for next month’s challenge. Be sure to read his Email. Remember it’s the doing that counts. If you get a less than perfect result, bring it in and tell us about it. Some of the members have preconditioned their green wood pieces with an unusual substance discov-ered by a former member Jack Rolison. Maybe one of them could bring in a piece treated with the “magic stuff”. (A.W. or B.L. hint hint).

Richard Gould will be our demonstrator for the February meeting. He plans to turn a natural edge piece to rough and then finish turn a second natural edge bowl. I am certain the chips will fly. I hope all of you will be at the meeting.

The featured speaker at the OCWA this month will be Frank E. Cummings III. Mr. Cum-mings is a professional turner and furniture maker with an international reputation. He cur-rently has a gallery exhibit at the Long Beach Art Museum and he is profiled in the latest Woodworker West magazine.

While you are looking at the profile be sure to read the article by Robert Rosand on getting started in wood turning. Mr. Rosand has previously visited our club. He a great demonstra-tor and has a solid down to earth approach to wood turning. See if you can find what ap-pears to be an editorial error on page 42 right hand column second paragraph of his Wood-

(Continued on page 4)

Welcome Welcome -- New Members!New Members!

Marilyn Austin Seal Beach

Interest: Bowl Turning

J. Michael Evans Tustin

Gil Garratt Garden Grove

Interest: General Woodworking

Patricia Gruett Orange

Nathan Lucas Long Beach

Interest: General, Woodturning

Edison Stoneking Mission Viejo

Interest: Woodturning, Toys

Ash Vaughan Mission Viejo

Interest: General Woodworking

Joni Whitsitt Westminster Interest: Toys

Woodturners’ ShavingsWoodturners’ Shavings Robin HoffRobin Hoff

• M A R K Y O U R C A L E N D A R •

Old Tool Swap Meet @ Anderson Plywood Culver City Feb. 15

Lie Nielsen @ Sierra Madre Sawing & Milling Sierra Madre Mar. 7-8

SD Fair Registration Deadline www.sdfair.com May 2

Utah Woodturning Symposium Orem, UT May 15-17

OC Fair Registration Deadline www.ocfair.com Jun. 1

San Diego County Fair Del Mar Jun. 7-Jul. 6

AAW Symposium Phoenix, AZ Jun. 13-15

Furniture Society Symposium Port Townsend, WA Jun. 19-21

Orange County Fair Costa Mesa Jul. 11-Aug. 10

International Woodworking Fair Atlanta, GA Aug. 20-23

Frank E. Cummings’ “Splendid Lady”

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worker West article.

Mark your calendar! Saturday March 1, 2014, will be a special day for members of the OCWT. Alan Carter is a pro-fessional Woodturner from Chicago. He will present a full day demonstration at Laguna Tools in Irvine. You need to be there. The cost is $45.00 and includes lunch. Registration is being handled by Jerry Nininger. Call him at 949-631-7530 or Email at jdnininger@yahoo.com. The sooner you register the easier it is on your planning committee. Please get on this now!

Former OCWT President and all around great guy, Craig Chambers, hosted a hands-on driveway sharpening ses-sion on Saturday morning, January 18, 2014. 14 members got great input and assistance from Craig and his able assistants, Ralph Alder, Bill Rogers, and David Wade. I bet all 14 are now knowledgeable in the world of long grind vs traditional grind. Thanks guys.

Who said “you can’t turn if you can’t sharpen?” There will be a modest prize to any two members who can answer this question at the February meeting.

Another question: In October we will have Keith Gotschall from Colo-rado present an all-day demonstration. He is willing to stay on to conduct a two day hands-on workshop. Is this something you might be interested in attending? I am not asking for a firm commitment at this time. I just need to know if there is sufficient interest. The pro-demonstrations and workshops are expensive, logistically challenging and require an ad-vanced commitment by the club to the instructor. To have successful workshop we will need at least six attendees and we can handle eight.

Speaking of hands on training: William Ng informs me that at least 5 OCWT members have signed up with deposits for the three day Jimmy Clewes workshop in “Fabulous” Anaheim, California to be held 2/21-2/23 and 2/24-26. William says there are still a couple of openings for OCWT members. Remember to ask for your $50.00 OCWT discount.

Help Wanted I have a Laguna 16D band saw with ceramic guides. I need to replace the blade under the watchful eye of somebody that knows what they are doing with setting the guides so that maybe the new blade will last a bit longer. I’ve got the blades and the tools. What I don’t have is any real experience.

- Robin

(Continued from page 3)

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Show & Tell PhotosShow & Tell Photos

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The January Toy Workshop was the first of the New Year and it will take a few months to get in the swing of things and for people to make enough parts for all of us to sand and as-semble. Ed Smet had his usual 40 or so Keepsake boxes to assemble and prepare for the next step. I have been getting letters from the various organizations that we gave toys to last year and they are all very appreciative of our generosity and hard work. I have included several photos from the Heart of Jesus Retreat Center in Santa Ana and Sister Rachel sent us a letter of thank you. We will have a new supply of handkerchief doll kits for the making at the workshop from Mag Musgrave. We made over 250 dolls and cradles last year and with a year of experience it should be a snap to make more this year.

The February toy workshop will be Feb 8th at Bill Rogers’s house from 9 am to noon.

- Bill Rogers

Toy StoryToy Story Bill RogersBill Rogers

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Happy New Year to everyone and once again thanks to all of you for your support of our pen program. If anyone has any suggestions for some additional military organizations that would appreciate our pens, please let me or a board member know.

Jim Anderson has recently been in contact with the Wounded Warrior Battalion of Camp Pendleton pursuing an acknowledgment from them for our pens they had received and dis-tributed. A copy of the letter from the Commanding Officer of the Wounded Warrior Battalion is printed below. The CO informed Jim that the number of new patients is down to approximately seven per week and most of the admissions were PTSD patients. We thank Jim for his persistence and his continued sup-port of the pen program.

Stay Healthy and Keep Turning.

John Marshall

Freedom Pen ProjectFreedom Pen Project John MarshallJohn Marshall

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To all OCWA members

We have exciting news for the OCWA. The board has approved our first ever fundraising effort outside the club by authorizing us to participate in the Tustin Chili Cookoff festival in Old Town Tustin on June 1, 2014. This festival is a one day event & attracts up to 40,000 people. The proceeds from this effort will go to-wards the pen program as well as other areas the club designates. We’ll need help from anyone willing to give us a hand.

The rules given to us by the festival committee mandate that a list of items to be sold along with pictures be submitted with the registration form. Only items on this list may be sold. A list of 24 items has been submitted to the festival committee & just yesterday we were accepted to participate. Attached is the list of items that were submitted. We paid $250 for a 10’ x 10’ booth with electricity & plan on demonstrating a mini-lathe & displaying our many (hopefully) items made by our members.

Here’s the plan, we will need the membership to make & donate these items to sell at the festival. Mem-bers can make them on their own, or better yet, get with some fellow woodworkers and plan a day to make chips fly. We will need volunteers to help out on the fundraising committee and a little later volunteers to man the booth. This event is 4 months away so we have a lot of time to get revved up & get those items built.

This will be a win, win, situation because at the meetings during the next 4 months we will be presenting samples of the items needed as well as instruction on how to build. The items will also be featured in the monthly newsletter. You may be able to build something you haven’t tried yet. Most of these items only need a few coats of tung oil or Danish oil & will be ready to go. If you are unable to complete some item, i.e., you don’t have a certain tool or you don’t have finishing capabilities or the time, the fundraising com-mittee can help coordinate other member volunteers to help you out. This will indeed take a village.

This is the most creative group of people in Orange County and we hope to see that creativeness put to good use in making some really nice items we can sell at the festival. The success of this fundraiser is completely up to us. If you can only make one item we would love to have it, If you want to make 25 even better. This is definitely a work in progress so your comments, ideas, critiques and concerns can be di-rected to Ollie Vaughan & Greg Madrigal & will be appreciated.

Orange County Woodworkers Association

Items for craft fair:

Bowls Tops Pens Bottle stoppers Wood toys Oven push/pulls Cutting boards Cheese serving trays Small jewelry box Large jewelry box Wood mushrooms Bird houses Canes Bandsaw boxes Wine holders Goblets Platters Bud Vases Spaghetti size Mirrors P.O. Box Banks Key chains Foot stools Wood necklaces

AnnouncementsAnnouncements

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Do you have any woodworking-related tips, tricks, news, or comments? Email them to the editor (library@davidtilson.com) or write them down and hand them to David at a club meeting. In an Association of woodworkers, every member, even a nov-ice, can contribute something to improve everyone’s knowl-edge and skill in the craft, be it a new trick or technology, a “learning experience,” or a reminder of an old-school tech-nique.

Getting a Perfect Fit: Tips for Making Snug Joinery

and Straight Frames

Last month’s rant griped about the tendency for woodworking authors to gloss over or completely ignore certain important, but not very glamorous aspects of woodworking. I went on about how cer-tain topics of discussion, while not any good for selling books or magazines, are still vitally impor-tant to achieving precise joinery, for example. I pro-posed that if you want flat wood panels and tight fitting joints of whatever style, you’ve first got to learn that it’s the little things you don’t see that will get you in the end.

We looked at how that ever-present bane of the woodshop, sawdust, gets in the way of achieving an air-piston fit in a mortise and tennon joint. Then we looked at why your wood is stressed out, and why that means you can’t do like Norm Abram and get a well fitted joint in a quick 15-second pass over the tablesaw.

That brings us to the last little thing you don’t see. Actually, it’s a bunch of really tiny little things. At every step in the process of making something from wood, there are those microscopic (and not-so-microscopic) imperfections in the surface, tiny er-rors in how the saw’s fence was set, miniscule slips of the pencil when marking off dimensions, and so on. Those little buggers can really add up: a thou-sandth of an inch here and a couple more there, pretty soon you’ve got a 1/16” gap to fill. I’ll finish with some tips to help eliminate the majority of them, and assure more precision in your woodwork. Some of these you may have seen in the “shop tips” section of your favorite woodworking magazine — if you’ve been a subscriber long enough, that is. Others seem to be foreign to most woodworkers, but they’re second nature to machinists and engi-neers everywhere. Go figure.

1) Re-use tool setups to minimize errors, but if you’re going to err, err to the side that’s easier to fix. This is really two things in one, but it’s all about making those invisible inaccuracies easier to deal with. For example, if you’re setting up the tablesaw for a rip cut, take the time to do it accurately, and then make sure you use that setup for all of the parts that will need that dimension before changing over for a different cut. This not only saves time setting up the machine, it saves time if there’s any error in your measurement, because either all parts will have the same exact error and thus, being the same size, they’ll still fit together properly; or if the error is a problem, then the same solution can be used to fix all of the parts, since they are all basi-cally the same. This beats having to spend hours custom fitting each part because they are all com-pletely different.

The other part of this concept is to make an error to the side that’s easier to fix, especially if the risk of an error is very high. The best example of this is when cutting a finger joint for a box. The depth of cut must equal the thickness of the parts to be joined, but if you cut the joint only so deep and, say, a speck of sawdust gets wedged between the wood and the jig, or between the jig and the saw or router, your cut depth will be less and you’ll get a sunken joint (the fingers won’t come through to be flush with the surface of the box). The only cure for this is to go back and cut the joint deeper (pretty nigh impossible to do accurately), or else to plane the entire side of the box down to the level of the sunken joint. If the cutting depth were set very slightly on the deep side, the fix for a projecting joint is to trim it flush with a router, or with a block plane, or a belt sander, etc. It’s always easier to remove a little extra wood than it is to add some back. The moral here is that an ounce of prevention, even in the form of making a small intentional error, is worth more than a pound of cure.

2) Adopt a fixed-datum measuring system. This means that everything on the part you’re making is measured from the same reference point: a particu-lar corner of the board or the shoulder of a tennon, for example. One of the best tools for measuring this way is a good quality hook rule. Fixed-datum measuring, also called baseline dimensioning, eliminates the possibility of accumulating a large measuring error by adding a bunch of separate measurements (and their margins of error) to-

The Scrap Bin: Comments and EditorialComments and Editorial

10

gether, because everything is measured directly from the same point. That’s how they made parts that had to go to the moon, and that’s how I try to lay out wooden parts in my shop. I’ve lost track of how many plans I’ve seen in woodworking books and magazines that use dependent dimensions (one mark is measured from the previous mark, which is measured from the previous, and so on). That’s why I almost never use published plans; if they don’t know how to properly dimension a draw-ing, why would I trust them to have penciled in the correct dimensions for everything? Rather than make the same error as everyone else in the U.S. who reads the same book or magazine, I prefer to make my own completely original mistakes, thank you.

Another aspect of fixed-datum measurement is that it is very well suited to using stop blocks for posi-tioning parts to be cut. Thus, if you need drawer boxes that are rectangular, rather than trapezoidal, you set up a stop of some sort so that all parts that should be cut to the same dimension are cut to the same dimension. At least that way, if your dimen-sion is a little bit off, it will be the exact same error (and the exact same repair or correction) in every case, and either way you’ll have rectangular drawer boxes rather than wonky trapezoids.

3) When setting up a cut for any joint, forget the math and look at the relationship of the mating parts. I can’t think of how many times I’ve rabbeted the edge of a ½” thick panel to fit into a ¼” groove, and simply set the size of the rabbet to ¼”. But what if the panel was thicknessed under-size by the

planer? Then I’ve just over-cut the rabbet, and the panel will fit loosely in the groove. That’s why test-cuts are so important, and it’s also a great reason to apply fixed-datum dimensioning to the cutting of the parts as well. If the location of the joinery rela-tive to the front face of the panel is critical, then you should always set up your machines to register the position of the cut relative to the front face of each part. As long as you can do so safely, that is. That’s where a good collection of jigs and auxiliary fences comes in handy.

4) When accuracy really counts, such as when transferring dimensions between mating parts of a joint, do your layout “by touch” with a marking knife. This means measuring not by transferring a line from a ruler to the board by hand, but by using a marking knife pressed tightly against a guiding sur-face to leave a finely scored cutting line on the part. To see how this helps, it is important to understand how a marking knife works. I’ve seen an awful lot of “woodworking experts” using things like Xacto and Swiss Army knives to lay out joinery, and it’s a wonder if anything fits when they’re done. A proper marking knife is a knife that is beveled on one side only, leaving a flat back to rest against whatever is being used to guide the knife. The one I use is a spear-point design, with two bevels on one face coming together at about 60 degrees to make a tri-angular point (the back face is, of course, lapped dead flat). This allows the knife to be used either right- or left-handed.

To mark the pin board of a hand-cut dovetail joint, one would first use the thickness of the mating

The end of a hook rule is very precisely aligned to the scale, and the hook is clamped tightly to the end for outside meas-urements. A quick 1/4 turn of the cam (screw head) releases the hook for inside measuring. Finely engraved markings and a matte finish complete this precision rule.

The blades of these marking knives are flat on the back, with two bevels making a “spear point” that can be used either left– or right-handed. As long as the knife is held vertical and pressed against the blade of the square, the mark will be laid down exactly along the edge of the square.

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piece to set the gap on a marking gauge, and mark the cutting depth for the pins onto the faces of the piece. Next, the tail board (cut previously) is lined up and clamped against the end of the pin board in the alignment of the finished joint, and the marking knife is used to transfer the exact profile of the tail board onto the end of the pin board. Then, with the knife resting in one of these marks and at the cor-ner of the end and face of the board, a square is slid up to the knife, allowing the line to be continued at 90 degrees down the face of the board, and per-fectly in line with the mark on the end of the board. This same sort of thing continues until all of the pins for the joint are marked on the face and end of the board. These marks can be used first as guides for a rough cut (to the waste side of the line) with a saw, and later to guide the trimming cut. Thus, al-lowing the point of a chisel to drop into the knife cut will place the cutting edge of the chisel exactly where the edge of the tail board was resting when the marking knife was used, making it easy to posi-tion the tool accurately for the final, light paring cut that brings the joint to its proper fit.

As a second example, when marking out the shoul-der of a tennon, I’ll use a knife that is beveled on one side only, placing the flat back of the knife on the side that I want to cut to (the bevel faces the waste side). First, I set the knife on the layout mark, then I’ll bring the edge of my square up against it to guide the cut. The flat side of the knife cut gives me a far more precise mark to cut to than any pencil ever could, and it also gives me a groove to place the tip of my chisel in for that last light par-ing cut that trims the joint to size. I’ll also sharpen marking gauges and such to give me the same kind of accuracy when marking parallel to an edge.

Finally, after you’ve cleaned up your shop, meas-ured carefully, and whittled the wood down to size (and shape), there’s just one more question left to ask: how much precision do you really need in woodwork? The answer depends on the job, of course. I often joke that the difference between a carpenter and a cabinetmaker is about ¼ inch. In all seriousness, I have found that the difference be-tween a well-fitting joint and a joint that is unac-ceptably loose or tight is often about five thou-sandths of an inch: little more than the thickness of a hair. To consistently make well-fitted joints, you’ll want to select measuring tools with error margins that can keep you within the error tolerance of the joint to be made. Another useful method is to cus-tom fit each joint, cutting it very slightly on the too-tight side and shaving it to fit with a sharp shoulder

plane or similar tool. This allows you to compen-sate for less-than-industrial-grade equipment and any slight warping that may have occurred.

If you’ve successfully slogged through all of the pre-ceding, my hearty congratulations! I realize that it may be rather dense to get through, but my sincere hope is that I can point my readers in the direction of the philosophy, for lack of a better term, of preci-sion in woodwork. Come to think of it, it really is a sort of philosophy. Whenever I’m designing a pro-ject, or setting up a cut for a joint, I’m always think-ing about safety — and also about whatever might want to go wrong, of course — but I’m also thinking about what this next cut really needs to achieve, and where the errors and mistakes in this and the next several steps might creep in. To me, it’s al-most like chess: the better player is always the one who can plan the most moves ahead.

- David Tilson

Douglas Fir, magnified 400 times.

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P.O. Box 1038 Fullerton CA 92836-8038

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WHERE?

Tustin Senior Center 200 S. “C” Street Tustin, CA 92680

WHEN?

Woodworkers’ Meeting Thursday Feb. 6, 7:00 PM

Woodturners’ Meeting Thursday Feb. 20, 6:30 PM

Board Meeting Thursday Feb. 6, 6:00 PM

Sawdust &

Shavings

Is The Monthly Newsletter of

The Orange County

Woodworkers Association

Visit us on the Web at: OCWoodWorkers.com

Sawdust & Shavings is pub-lished monthly before the Woodworkers Meeting. The deadline for submissions is the Monday after the Turner’s meeting.

Do you have an idea for an article, shop tip, or tool review? Please contact the editor at:

library@davidtilson.com