Product Development-MFM

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Product

Development



Product Development

Wha t Is a P rodu ct L ine and W ho

Develops It?



Product development is the first step in the

manufacturing process.

This involves lots of research, inspiration and

market analysis in order to come up with a

product which will be in demand

Product development is carried out in two ways;

1. Buyer specified2. Own development



Own development

Market research

Design concept

Market screening

Prototype pattern

Range meeting

Pattern adaptation (Testing)

The origin of styles

The development of samples

The refinement of

business objectives



Production Grading

patterns MarkersProduction templates

Specifications

Feedback from Feedback from

Manufacturer the market place

The attainment of

commercial products



Role of the Merchandiser

The merchandiser the person who channels thecreativity of the designer and design staff so thatthe six “rights” of merchandising can

successfully accomplished.

The merchandiser is the liaison among thedesign staff, the production facilities, and thesales staff.



Role of the Designer

Designers create designs by sketching (croquois)or by drawing on a computer (CAD), or by draping cloth on a model.

- High-fashion or “name” designers

- Stylist-designers- Freelance artist-designers



High-fashion or “name” designers

High-fashion or “name” designers are responsible notonly for creating the designs, but also for the choice of fabric, texture, and color in which each design is to beexecuted.

They may often be involved in production processand promotion of the line.

Ex: Tom Ford; Gucci, Bill Blass, Anna Sui, RalphLauren, Donna Karan



Stylist-designers

Stylist-designers use their creative talents to adaptor change the successful designs of others.

Stylist-designers must understand fabric and

garment construction as well as the manufacturing process, because designs are usually adapted atlower prices.

Stylist-designers usually create designs at the laterise or early culmination stages of the fashion lifecycle.



Freelance artist-designers

Freelance artist-designers sell their sketches to

manufacturers.

They may work independently at home or from adesign studio.

The sketches may be original designs by freelanceartist-designers, or adaptations of a design furnishedby the manufacturer.

The sketches may reflect the freelancer's own ideas,or the manufacturer’s detailed specifications.



Role of the Producer

Manufacturers

Jobbers

Contractors



Manufacturer

A m a nu fa cturer is one w ho perform s a l l the

operat ions req u ired to produ ce a ppa rel , from

bu ying the fa bric to se l ling a nd sh ipping thefin ished g arm ents .



A manufacturer is a producer who handles all phasesof a garment’s production.

The staff produces the original design or buys anacceptable design from freelance designer.

Each line is planned by the company executives.

The company purchases the fabric & trimmings

needed.

The cutting and sewing are usually done in thecompany’s factories.



Apparel Jobbers

An a ppa re l jobber ha ndles the des ig ning , the

planning , the pu rcha s ing , usua l ly the cu tting , the

se l ling , and the shipping , but not the a ctua l sewingoperation.



Apparel jobbers handle all phases of the production

of a garment except for the actual sewing and

sometimes the cutting.

A jobber firm may employ a design staff to create

various seasonal lines or may buy sketches from

freelancer.

Jobber buys the fabric and trims, and makes up

samples, and grades the patterns.

They arrange outside factories for manufacturing

operations (sewing and finish).



Contractors

A contra ctor is a produce r whose sole

fun ct ion is to supp ly sew ing services to the

industry.

Contractors that specialize in the production of

one product are sometimes referred to as i tem

houses .



The advantages & disadvantages of the

contractor system for the manufacturer

Advantages:

Large amounts of capital is not required.

Difficulties in the hiring & training of suitable workers are

minimized.

The amount of capital necessary to meet regular payrolls is

greatly reduced. By providing additional manufacturing facilities in periods of

peak demand, contractors help speed up delivery of orders.

It is necessary to keep one factory busy year-round.



Disadvantages

No individual has full responsibility for thefinished product.

Other “manufacturers” (jobbers) may use the samefacilities and get preferential treatment, becausethey place larger orders, or offer repeat business, oreven guarantee future business.

The quality of workmanship and inspection tendsto uneven.



Product Development Process

Currently there are many variations in the product

development process.

A six stage process that covers the functions

performed at every firm, regardless of size. They areas follows;

Stage 1. Planning the line

Stage 2. Creating the design concept

Stage 3. Developing the designs

Stage 4. Planning production

Stage 5. Distributing the line



Stage 1. Planning the line

Starts with the work of designer or product

development team, under the direction of a

merchandiser

First task is research

Development of trend board



There are three major types of firms that

develop a line of apparel:

1. Large Manufacturers

2. Designer-Owned Firms

3. Small Manufacturers



Stage 2. Creating the design concept

Designs for individual garments

Each one is sketched or developed in muslin

Evaluation of design work



Stage 3. Developing the designs

Designs that seem most likely to succeed are made up

as finished sample garments

A patternmaker creates a production pattern in garmentsize

From this pattern, one or more samples are cut &finally, the garment is sewn by a designer’s assistant

who is also a seamstress. This person is called a sample

hand.



The design is presented to various executives & managersof the company: sales, purchasing, production and costaccounting.

Analysis of the cost of fabric & the cost of production.

Modifications will be done at this stage.

Accepted or rejected. Accepted design is assigned a stylenumber.



Methods of Developing the designs

CAD: Computer-Aided Design

Linked CAD/CAM/CIM

- CAM (Computer-Aided Manufacturing)

- CIM (Computer-Integrated Manufacturing)



Stage 4. Planning production

Begins with sourcing, or determining where thecomponents of a garment (fabric, thread, linings, facings,buttons, trim, etc.,) will be purchased.

Reservations for production must be made

The fabric and accessories must be ordered

Each garment must be costed out, so that the exact cost &selling price can be set



The samples, each with its style number, are then presentedto retail buyers at the manufacturer’s seasonal shows.

The buyers usually place orders for some of the individualdesign.

Most manufacturers have set minimum orders for thequantity, number of styles, and/or dollar amount requiredto accept the retail buyer’s order.

Production contracts are often being finalized while themanufacturer’s representatives are selling the line to retail

accounts.



Stage 5. Production

Cutting Grading – various sizes

After a pattern has been graded into the various sizes, the pieces are laid out on a long piece of paper called a marker.

A spreader, or laying-up machine, carries the material along a

guide on either side of the cutting table.

The marker is laid on top of these layers.



Once the cutting is completed, the pieces of eachpattern-the sleeves, collars, fronts, and backs-are tiedinto bundles according to their sizes. This process iscalled bundl ing .

The bundles are then moved to the manufacturers’sewing operators



Sewing

Technology has dramatically changed the sewing stage of

production.

The industrial sewing machine sews much faster than a

home sewing machine.

Home sewing machines perform many functions, whileindustrial machines perform specialized functions.

Some sew only seams, while others sew blind hems. Buttonmachines sew on buttons.



Computerized sewing machines that do embroidery can be

set up to stitch whole patterns without a machine operator.

Sing le-ha nd operat ions still exist, in which one operator

sews the entire garment.

Today, most manufacturers use the popular modular

m anu facturing sys tem , in which teams of seven to nine

workers produce entire garments, passing them on to eachother, until the garment is complete.



Finishing the Product

The sewn garment is still far from ready for the retail floor.

A label must be sewn in. buttons and buttonholes may be addedat this stage.

Some fabrics are washed at this stage to prevent shrinkage

Garment dyeing

Garment pressing

Bar-coded price tickets, cartons labeled, and shipping

documents attached at this stage.



Inspecting the Product

Garments are inspected many times during the production process.

1st the fabric and dye quality are checked.

Cutting is checked for pattern matching and size specs

Sewing is also checked repeatedly along the way, for stitchlength, seam type, buttonhole stitching, and hem stitching.

Quality assurance (QA), which refers to the product meeting thestandards established for it, includes the inspection of eachingredient of the fabric: fabric, thread, buttons, snaps, orzippers, hem tape, linings, shoulder pads, etc.,



Stage 6. Distributing the line

Sales tickets and bar codes must be added; at this stage

Then shipments must be consolidated, and finally sent to

retailers by trucks, rail, or air.



Reference Book

Fashion Design & Product Development, Harold

Carr, John Pomeroy

Date post:	09-Apr-2018
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