This is a repository copy of Programmable Knitting.

White Rose Research Online URL for this paper:http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/106974/

Version: Accepted Version

Proceedings Paper:Scott, J (2016) Programmable Knitting. In: Acadia 2016 Posthuman Frontiers: Data, Designers, and Cognitive Machines: Projects Catalog of the 36th Annual Conference of the Association for Computer Aided Design in Architecture. ACADIA 2016 Posthuman Frontiers: Data, Designers and Cognitive Machines, 27-29 Oct 2016, The University of Michigan, Taubman College of Architecture and Urban Planning, Ann Arbor, Michigan. Acadia Publishing Company , pp. 276-281. ISBN 978-0692770955

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Programmab旭e Kni焼ngJane ScotThe University of Leeds &

Centra旭 Saint Mar抄nsp London

HERO IMAGE

This project examines the poten抄a旭 for knited fabric to exhibit environmenta旭旭y responsivep shape､

changing behaviours Using the examp旭es of two knited prototypes F旭ux and Skewp the work

demonstrates how the conigura抄on of front bed ｪFBｫ and back bed ｪBBｫ s抄tches can be used to

program speciic shape change behaviours into knited fabric composed of ゲググ鯵 natura旭 ibress

The inten抄on has been to deve旭op a passive responsive materia旭 system which direct旭y engages with

changes in the environmentp rather than using materia旭 components that require e旭ectronic contro旭s

This requires the shape change behaviour to be engineered into the fabric itse旭fp and biomime抄c

insight derived from the structura旭 organisa抄on of p旭ant materia旭s has been instrumenta旭 to design

deve旭opments

PRODUCTION NOTES

Designer Jane Scot

Yarn ゲ｠ゴジnm 旭inen 芦ズグtpm s｠z

Programme Shima Seiki Apexゲ

Knit Machiner Shima Seiki NSSGゲゴゴrズg s

1 Programmab旭e Kni焼ngr the knited surface actuates causing waves of movement a旭ong the fabric 旭engths ｪScotp ゴグゲズ ｻ ｫ

4 Skewr Detai旭 of knited surface ater actua抄on in ザD｠wet states ｪSchekp ゴグゲズ ｻｫ

In order to design shape､changing knited surfaces the cons抄t､

uent materia旭s require the abi旭ity to sense and respond to

externa旭 s抄mu旭is In this research actua抄on occurs in response to

moistures Natura旭 ibres have excep抄ona旭 moisture absorp抄on

proper抄ess As moisture is absorbed into the ibre there is 旭it旭e

change in the ibre 旭engthp however the transverse swe旭旭ing

is extensive ｪup to ジズ鯵 in lax ibresｫ ｪMorton and Hear旭ep

ゲゾ芦葦rゴゴゼｫs

For shape change to impact at the 旭eve旭 of the fabric the

transverse swe旭旭ing caused by moisture absorp抄on needs to be

trans旭ated into an actua抄on mo抄on which can generate shape

change across the who旭e fabrics This is achieved using twistp the

under旭ying mechanism which ho旭ds ibres together within a yarn

ｪScotp ゴグゲズrゾグ ｫs However in order to generate comp旭ex shape

changep the direc抄ona旭ity inherent to yarn twist direc抄on can be

modiied through the conigura抄on of knited s抄tches demon､

strated in the prototypes F旭ux and Skew ｪScot ゴグゲズrゾズｫs

Knited s抄tches are generated with a speciic direc抄ona旭ityq the

yarn is a旭ways introduced to the need旭e in the same wayp inter､

旭ooping through the previous 旭oop from the technica旭 back to the

2 Programmab旭e Kni焼ngq fabric before actua抄on in dry state ｪSchekp ゴグゲズ ｻｫ

3 Programmab旭e Kni焼ngr ater actua抄on fabric forms spira旭 peaks ｪSchekp ゴグゲズ ｻ

5 F旭uxr Large sca旭e knited prototype constructed from mu旭抄p旭e shaped pane旭s of horizonta旭 ribs Fabric seamed at par抄cu旭ar points to produce diferent shape changess

葦 F旭uxr detai旭 i旭旭ustra抄ng openings forming in the actuated surfaces ｪScotp ゴグゲズ ｻｫ 7 F旭uxr RKS data i旭旭ustra抄ng direc抄ona旭 behaviour of fabric in 葦s ｪScotp ゴグゲズp ｻｫ

9 F旭uxr RKS data i旭旭ustra抄ng direc抄ona旭 behaviour of fabric in 芦s ｪScotp ゴグゲズp ｻｫ

In order to programme the shape change behaviour a new

i旭旭ustra抄ve approach has been deve旭opedq RKS ｪthe responsive

knit systemｫ ｪScotp ゴゲグズrゲゲゾ ｫs Ana旭ysis of RKS representa抄on of

Skew in comparison to Shima knit data for Skew ｪimages ゲゲｹゲゴｫ

i旭旭ustrates how incorpora抄ng the direc抄ona旭ity of the fabric struc､

ture and yarn in combina抄on ｪthe resu旭tant ac抄ve twistｫ enab旭es

the design of shape､changing kni焼ngs

F旭ux demonstrates shape change behaviour using a horizonta旭 rib

conigura抄ons The under旭ying shape change is from a rectang旭e

to a chevron and repea抄ng units generate a zigzag on actua抄ons

F旭ux however is an assemb旭y of individua旭 fabricsp extending the

scope of programmab旭e kni焼ng to create a旭terna抄ve geometries

where fabric structures interactp inc旭uding peaks and spira旭sp and

sec抄ons that open and c旭oses RKS representa抄on of two indi､

vidua旭 detai旭s are i旭旭ustrated aboves

What this project demonstrates is the poten抄a旭 of natura旭 tex抄旭e

materia旭s to exhibit behaviours conven抄ona旭旭y associated with

smart synthe抄cs or e､tex抄旭ess Through the use of a hierarchica旭

approach derived from biomimicry a new c旭ass of smart､natura旭

knited surfaces has been estab旭isheds

芦 F旭uxr detai旭 i旭旭ustra抄ng spira旭 peaks forming in the actuated surfaces ｪScotp ゴグゲズ ｻｫ

ゲゲ Fabric actuated using co旭d water spay ｪSchekp ゴグゲズ ｻｫ

REFERENCES

Mortonp WsE and JsWsS Hear旭es ゲゾ芦葦s Physica旭 Proper抄es of Tex抄旭e Fibress

Manchesterr Tex抄旭e Insitutes

Scotp Janes ゴグゲズs Programmab旭e Kni焼ngr An Environmenta旭旭y

Responsivep Shape､changing Tex抄旭e System Informed by Biomimicry and

Costructed from ゲググ鯵 Natura旭 Materia旭ss PhD Thesiss University of the

Arts Londons

Spencerp Davids ゲゾゾゼs Kni焼ng Techno旭ogys Cambridger Woodheads

Jane Scotvs research incorporates programmab旭e and responsive tex抄旭e systemsp knited fabric designp knit techno旭ogy and biomim-

icrys Using a biomimicry methodo旭ogy her work re､examines the cons抄tuent components of knit fabrics in order to engineer smart behaviours into knited tex抄旭es without e旭ectronics or smart synthe抄c materia旭ss She has recent旭y comp旭eted a PhD through The Tex抄旭es Futures Research Centrep Centra旭 Saint Mar抄ns at The University of the Arts London.

Jane works as a Senior Teaching Fe旭旭ow at The University of Leedss Her ro旭e incorporates the design and de旭ivery of both studio prac-

抄ce and 旭ecture programmes in BA Tex抄旭e Designs

11 Skew SDSゲ Apex Programming Data i旭旭ustra抄ng knit s抄tch conigura抄ons 12 Skewr RKS data shows the direc抄ona旭 behaviour of knit structures ｪScotp ゴグゲズ