Promoting origin-linked quality products in four countries(GTF/RAF/426/ITA)
Mid-term Progress Report
Reporting period: January 2010 – February 2011
Contents
1. Resultsachievedanddifficultiesencountered
2. Workplanfor2011
3. Criteriafortheselectionoftheproducts
4. Interestingproductsidentifiedinthefirstphaseoftheproject
5. Planningofsecondfieldmissions
6. Shortbibliography
Annexes
I. MissionreportstoGuineaBissau,Mali,SenegalandSierraLeone
II. Planningofactivitiestobeimplementedin2011
III. Modelofprofilecardusedfortheidentificationanddescriptionof
interestingorigin-linkedqualityproducts
IV. DocumentonCriteriafortheselectionofthefuturePresidia
V. ListofproducerspresentintheSalonedelGusto2010
VI. ListofparticipantstothepostTerraMadreSeminar
VII. AwarenessraisingmaterialontheprojectexposedduringtheSalone
delgusto2010.
1. Results achieved and difficulties encounteRed
Description of progress towards achievement of activities under Results I to IV.
Result I: Products mapping
i.Contactswithpartnersandstakeholdersestablished
Donebefore,duringandafter1stmissontoeachofthe4countries.InSenegalandMali,whereSlowFoodwasalreadyworking,existingcontactshavebeenused,andnewoneshavebeenestablished,.Forexample,inDakaracontracthasbeensignedwiththeInstitutdesTechnologiesAlimentaires(ITA).InMaliafruitfulcollaborationhasbeenlaunchedwiththeInstitutdeRechercheetdePromotiondesAlternativesenDéveloppement(IRPAD)andtheCoordinationNationaledesOrganisationsPaysannes(CNOP)auMali.Otherinterestingcontactshavebeentaken,forexamplewithCIRAD(Centredecoopérationinternationaleenrechercheagronomiquepourledéveloppement) andIER(Institutd'EconomieRurale).InGuineaBissauandSierraLeone,whereSlowFoodwasnotpresentyet,newcontactshavebeenmade.ThemostpromisingarewiththeorganizationTininguenainGuineaBissau(anorganizationwhoseobjectivesandphilosophyareverysimilartothoseofSlowFood)andtheCOAJOQcooperative,andtheMakeniUniversityandWWOOFSierraLeone(WorldWideOpportunitiesonOrganicFarms)inSierraLeone.DuringandafterTerraMadrethesecontactswerereinforced.Inparticular,immediatelyafterTerraMadre,atwodaysseminarwithsomeofourpartnersoftheprojectsinthe4countrieswashold(seeannexVI).TheseminarallowedustoexplainonceagaintoourpartnerstheSlowFoodphilosophy,theprojectgenesisandphilosophy,thecriteriafortheproductsmapping,ourworkingmethods,thebenefitsoflaunchingaPresidia,thevariousstepsintheimplementationofresultsIIandIII(producersorganization,productregulations,marketing).Ourpartnersgaveusnewdataonorigin-linkedqualityproductsintheircountries.InSierraLeone,pigeonpea,locust(parkiabiglobosa),tolla(aforestrarespontaneousplantwhoseseedsareusedasaseasoning),andafruitcalledblacktombla(scientificnamenotavailable)werementionedasinterestingorphanproducts.InSenegal,ourlocalpartnersmentioned3medicinalplants(rat,ngerandborbof),thetouloucounaoil(Carapaspp),thecosmeticuseofthebaobabblackseedsandfruitslikemaddandditak.WeidentifiedtogetherthegapsinthemappingworkinSenegalandSierraLeoneandnewcollaborationswerelaunched(withTininguenaforGB,withCNOPandIRPADforMali,withITAforSenegalandwithWWOOFforSL).Formoredetailsoncontactswithpartners,pleaseseemissionreports(AnnexI).
ii.Implementationplancompleted AnupdatedimplementationplanwassentinNovember2010.ItwasupdatedafterdiscussionwithMs.Vandecandelaere(FAO,AGND)inRomeinFebruary2011anditisattachedtothepresentdocument(AnnexII).
iii.Databaseofcontactscompleted Done,basedonactivityi.Continuouslyupdated.iv.ElaborationofselectioncriteriaforproductsmappingtobecomePresidia
WhentheprojectideawasdiscussedbetweenSlowFoodandtheFAO,itwasagreedthatSlowFoodwouldimplementtheprojectfollowingitsusualcriteriaandworkingmethods,takingintoaccountFAOrecommendations.InparticularsuchimplementationwouldhavebeenbasedonSF’sexperiencewiththe“Arcadelgusto”andthePresidia.InthelightofourworkinAfricainthelastyears,aspecificdocumentonselectioncriteriainAfricahasbeenpreparedbytheprojectteam.ItdefinesthecriteriatoidentifyinterestingLocalQualityProducts.ItisincludedinAnnexIV.Althoughsuchcriteriapresentconvergences,theydonotrelatedirectlytotheFAOmethodologyonidentificationoforigin-linkedqualityproducts,whichisbeingtestedbeforeitspublication.ThepreliminaryversionoftheFAOdocumentonthatmethodologywassenttoSFafterthemeetinginRomeforinformation.
v.Countryprofilescompleted Informationonthatregardisbeingcollectedinacontinuousway,basedonourcontactswithlocalNGOs,partners,universities,researchers,...Thecountryprofileswillnotbecompletedbeforetheendoftheproject.Theywillbeincludedintheprojectfinalreport.Eachofthefourcountryprofilewillbeelaboratedbasedonthefollowingoutline:1.Briefdescriptionofthemainecosystems2.Generalsituationoftheagriculturalbiodiversityandmainreasonsofthelossofagriculturalbiodiversity3.Generalsituationofthefoodbiodiversityandevolutionofconsuminghabits.Thecountryprofilewillgiveageneraloverviewoftheseissues,basedondatacollection,forwhichFAOcollaborationwillbesought,asforeseenintheprojectdocument.Onpoint3.,datawillbecollectedduringthenextfieldmissions.
vi.Agro-foodbiodiversitymappingcompleted
Thisactivityisstillon-going.Itstartedduringthefirstfieldtrips(toeachofthe4countries).Theactivityisgoingonthroughcollaborationwithvariouslocalpartnersandconsultants.ThecollaborationofFAOfieldofficeswillbesought,asforeseenintheprojectdocument.AfterdiscussionwithMs.Vandecandelaere(FAO,AGND)inRomeinFebruary2011,itwasagreedtopostponethedeadlineforcompletionofthatactivitytotheendof2011,inordertoguaranteethebestqualityoftheinformationcollected.IntermediateinformationcollectedduringthesecondmissionwillbesenttotheFAOfocalpoint,Ms.Vandecandelaere,afterthemission.Theagro-foodbiodiversitymappingforeachofthefourcountrieswillbepresentedintheformofafoodbiodiversitymap(oneforeachofthefourcountries)andofprofilecardsdescribinginterestingLocalQualityProducts.NOTE:InSlowFoodapproach,the“biodiversity”or“agro-foodbiodiversity”conceptincludesnotonlygeneticoragriculturaldiversitybutalsodiversityrelatedtothespecificqualityoffoodproductslinkedtothegeographicalorigin,offeringdiversityoffooddiets,diversityofknow-howintheproductionandprocessing,aswellasdiversityofuseandconsume(eating,medicinal,fibreuseetc...).
Vii.Profilecardscompleted Theinformationcollectedundervi.isbeingorganisedintheformofprofilecards.Themodelofprofilecardsusedfortheidentificationanddescriptionofinterestingorigin-linkedqualityproductswasdiscussedwithFAOHQ(Ms.Vandecandelaere(AGND).ItisincludedinAnnexIII.Itwasagreedthatthefilledinprofilecardswilladequatelyoutlinethelinkwithlocalterritory,thelocalculture,theenvironmentalaspects,theroleplaidbythelocalactorsoftheproductionandthelocalcommunity,possiblespecificchallengesandtheimportanceofproductionandmarket.Therewillbetwolevelsofprofilecards:for20to30productspercountry,basicinformationontheproductswillbeprovided.For4to6(percountry)particularlyinterestingproductsmoreindepthinformationwillbeprovided.TheselastprofilecardswillservefortheselectionofthefuturePresidiaunderactivitiesi.andii.herebelow.Theprofilecardswillbefinalisedbytheendof2011,butintermediateinformationcollectedduringthesecondmissionwillbesenttotheFAOfocalpoint,Ms.Vandecandelaere,afterthemission.
Result II: production organisation and product regulations
i.Origin-linkedqualityproductsassessmentscompleted(4to6percountry)
Thisactivityison-going.Alongwiththedatacollectionontraditionalqualityproducts,weareinanon-goingdialoguewithourlocalpartnersandourtechnicaladvisors(foodspecialists)toassessthequalitiesofthevariousproductsstudiedsofar.Someproductshavebeenanalysed:thesaltfromFarim(GuineaBissau),thesaltfromtheLacRose(Senegal),the“couscoussalé”(Senegal),thepalmoil,theMangroveshoneyfrom(Senegal),theKoinapurehoney(Musayaassociation-Kavala,SierraLeone).
ii.SelectionofaproducttobecomeSlowFoodPresidiacompleted
Basedoncollectedinformation,wearepreparingadescriptionof4to6productspercountry,togetherwithourrecommendationontheselectionofthePresidia.Theinformationisnotyetreadyforallproducts.Theavailableinformationiscontainedinpoint4herebelow.TheseprofilecardswillhavetobecommentedandapprovedbyFAOHQ(AGS&AGND)andbythemanagementoftheRegionalProjectGTF/RAF/426/ITA,inviewoftheselectionofthefourPresidia.
v.Draftproductionregulationscompleted
AsregardslikelyfuturePresidia,informationisbeingcollectedinordertodefinetheproductspecificationsincooperationwiththeproducersandtodrawupproductionregulations.Inthisexercise,althoughthemajorroleislefttolocalproducers,specificexternalexpertise(specialistsofthecategoryofproduct,e.g.oilexpert,cerealexpert)isalsobeingused.SlowFoodwilldiscusswithFAOitsexperienceandmethodologyinthisregard.
Result III: Marketing of selected products
c)v.ParticipationofproducersrepresentativestoTerraMadre
Ifithadbeenpossibletoimplementtheprojectaccordingtotheinitiallyforeseentiming(January2009toDecember2010),thefinalphase(marketingandawarenessraising)wouldhavecoincidedwithTerraMadre/SalonedelGusto2010.Unfortunately,theprojectstartedoneyearlaterthantheforeseendate.However,asfaraspossible,thosetwoSlowFoodmajoreventswereexploitedtopromotetheprojectandWestAfricanorigin-linkedqualityproducts.SeveralAfricancommunityrepresentativesparticipatedinTerraMadreandintheSalonedelGusto2010(200.000visitors)andexposedtheirproducts.ThePresidiaorinterestingproductsidentifiedandsupportedbytheprojectwillbepresentedandpromotedduringTerraMadre/SalonedelGusto2012.
Result IV: Awareness raising
d)iii.Communicationcampaignincludingevents,publicationsandmeetingsinordertosupportorigin-linkedqualityproducts,aswellastheofficialpresentationofnewPresidiaproductstothemediaduringtheTerraMadreeventandothernationalorinternationaleventsfinalized.
DuringTerraMadreaconferenceontheprojectwashold.Itwasfollowedbysomedozensofpersonswithgreatinterest.Inaddition,someawarenessmaterialontheprojectwasexposedattheSalonedelGusto2010(200.000visitors).SeeAnnexVII.DuringTerraMadre2012,anotherworkshopwillbeholdinordertopresenttheresultsoftheprojectandtheperspectivesforthefourPresidiaandtheotherinterestingorigin-linkedproductsidentified.
Description of difficulties encountered in implementing activities under Results I to IV.
Result I: Products mapping
i.Contactswithpartnersandstakeholdersestablished
TheLetterofAgreementbetweenFAOandSFoodand its annexesrefer to thedurationand timingof theprojectas if ithad startedatthebeginningof2009,orevenattheendof2008.Butactually,theprojecteventuallystartedinthefirstquarterof2010,asthefirstfinancial contribution for the activities implementation was madeat the end of 2009.A new timing, coherent with respect of whateventuallyhappenedandofthedifferentneedsofthefourcountriesinvolved,wasmutuallyagreedupon,basedonthefollowingdates:from1January2010until31December2011.The launching of the project, the implementation of activities andthemakingofcontactsinGuineaBissauwassomehowdifficultanddelayedbecauseofthepoliticalturbulencesinthecountryin2010.Inaddition,relativelyfewdataonagriculturalbiodiversityexist.Thefact that SFood had never worked in Guinea Bissau was anotherfactorofdifficultyanddelay.InSierra LeonewhereSFoodwasnot yetpresent, itwasnoteasytomakefruitfulcontacts.Thetragicstoryofthecountryinthelastdecadesalsomade it abit complicated to collect reliabledataonbiodiversityandtraditionalcultivars:theonlyUniversityofthecountryisonlybeingrebuildnowandmostofSierraLeoneseintellectualsareeitherabroadorhavebeenkilled.Inaddition,thelocalgastronomyisnotverydeveloped.
ii.Implementationplancompleted -
iii.Databaseofcontactscompleted -
iv.ElaborationofselectioncriteriaforproductsmappingtobecomePresidia
-
v.Countryprofilescompleted FewreliabledataonconsuminghabitsandagriculturalbiodiversityareavailableasregardsSierraLeoneandGuineaBissau.TheassistanceofFAOwillbesoughtforthisactivity.
vi.Agro-foodbiodiversitymappingcompleted
In Senegal and Sierra Leone, our local collaborators had somedifficultyinachievingthemappingprocess.Basedonthatexperienceweweremore cautious in selectingour collaborators in theothercountries.InMaliandGuineaBissau,thecollaborationwithourlocalpartnersfor the mapping process could not be concretised before January2011.In general, with our local collaborators it is not easy to have ourphilosophywellunderstoodnortoexplainexactlywhatthemappingprocessis.Thispartoftheprojectwasmuchmoredifficultthanforeseen.During our discussion in Rome with Ms. Vandecandelaere (FAO,AGND), we agreed that the project document should maybe haveforeseenmoreroomtofieldpresence.ForthatreasonitwasproposedtoconsideraddingathirdmissionofSFoodinthefourcountries.Wealsoagreedtoextendthetimededicatedtothatactivityuntiltheendoftheproject.Sofar,forthefourcountries,weonlyhavefragmentedinformation,whichwillhavetobeorganisedandscientificallycleared.Inspiteofthis,veryinterestingandoriginaldataarebeingcollected.AsregardsSenegal,muchoftheinformationisavailableandneedsonlytobeorganisedandcleared.ConcerningSierraLeoneandGuineaBissaumanyinformationsareavailablebutstillneedtobesupplemented.AsregardsMali, there'ssomedelayinthecollaborationwithourlocalpartner,whichwehopetosolveassoonaspossible.
vii.Profilecardscompleted Thispartofthework,aswellastheactivitiesunderResultII,wasdelayedduetodifficultiesexplainedundervi.
2. WoRkplan foR 2011
Theworkplanfor2011ispresentedinatableinAnnexII.
January to December:
Themappingprocesswillbefinalisedinallfourcountries.Themappingprocesswillbepresentedintheformofa“mapoffoodandagriculturalbiodiversity”andofafewdozensofprofilecardsofinterestingproducts.Amongthese,abouttwentyremarkableorigin-linkedqualityproductswillbedescribedmoreindepthandpresentedtotheFAO,inordertoproceedwiththeselectionofonePresidiaineachofthefourcountries.Assoonasanagreementonthishasbeenreached,thesecondmissionswillbepreparedandrealised.EachmissionwillinvolveanexpertofthetypeofproductchosentobecomeaPresidia.Duringthemission,datawillalsobecollectedtocompletethecountryprofiles.ThesecondmissionswillaimatdesigningandpreparingthevariousactivitiesunderResultsII,IIIandIVoftheproject.Ifnecessaryathirdmissionwillbeorganised.
March to August:
AllactivitiesunderResultII(“Producersorganisationandproductsregulation”)willbecompletedinallfourcountries,namely:theselectionofaPresidiaCoordinatorandthedecisiononinstitutionalcollaborations,theselectionoftheproducers involvedintheproject,theelaborationoftheproductionregulations,thefinalisationoftheproducersassociationformalities,thedirectsupporttotheproducers(logistics,equipment),andthetrainingoftheproducersonquality.TheworkwillbebasedonSlowFoodlongexperiencewiththePresidia,incollaborationwithFAOHQ(AGSandAGND)andtheFAOfieldoffices.
April to December:
Thefourcountryprofileswillbecompleted.Theworkwillbebasedonexistingdocuments,ondatacollectedattheleveloftheFAOfieldoffices,andondatacollectedduringthesecondfieldmissionsofSFood.Thecountryprofilewillbeelaboratedbasedonthefollowingoutline:1.Briefdescriptionofthemainecosystems2.Generalsituationoftheagriculturalbiodiversityandmainreasonsofthelossofagriculturalbiodiversity3.Generalsituationofthefoodbiodiversityandevolutionofconsuminghabits.
July to November:
ActivitiesunderResult II (“Marketingofselectedproducts”)willbecompleted inall fourcountries,namely: theelaborationofamarketingstrategy,thefinalisationofpackagingandlabelling,thecommercialpromotionoftheproducts.Theworkwill be realisedunder the supervisionof thePresidiaCoordinator,withSlowFoodactingasadvisor,incollaborationwithFAOHQ(AGSandAGND)andFAOfieldoffices.
September to December:
Inthelastquarteroftheyear,aconsumereducationcampaignwillbedesignedandconductedineachofthefourcountries.Thecampaignwillemphasizetheimportanceofpreservingthetraditionalgastronomicheritageandtheagriculturalbiodiversity.Itwillexplaintheconceptoforigin-linkedqualityproductsandpromotethenewPresidiaaswellasotherproductsidentifiedandstudiedinotherphasesoftheproject.ThePresidiaCoordinatorwillbeinvolvedbutotherstakeholderswillalsobeactorsofthecampaign.
3. cRiteRia foR the selection of the pRoducts
Interestingorigin-linkedqualityproductsarebeingidentifiedandselectedattwolevels.
Twentytothirtyproductspercountryarebeingidentifiedinaccordancewiththedefinitionoforigin-linke 搀qualityproductselaboratedinthecontextofthepresentproject(seeAnnexIV).
Suchproductswillbedescribedaccordingtodataavailable.Itisnotintendedtohaveanexhaustivelistnoraverydetaileddescriptionofproducts.Thescope is rather to illustrate,withconcreteexamplesoforigin-linkedqualityproducts,thetraditionalfooddiversityandhowthegastronomicandagriculturalheritageisatriskintoday’ssocioeconomiccontextoffourWestAfricancountries.Basicdescriptiveelementslikenameoftheproducts(vernacularandscientific),culturalaspects,linktoterritory,environmentalandsocialaspects,specificchallengeslinkedtotheproduct,traditionaluse,nutritionalinterrest,importanceofproductionandmarketingaspectswillbeprovided.
Amongtheseproducts,afew(4to6percountry),identifiedasespeciallyinterestingasaresultofthelocalstakesandimportanceoftheirpreservation-promotion,willbedescribedandanalysedmoreindepth,followingthecriteriaelaborated(seeAnnexIV).TheseproductswillthusrepresentpossiblefuturePresidia.
4. inteResting pRoducts identified in the fiRst phase of the pRoject
Asexplainedabove,thedescriptionoftheinterestingproductswillbedoneonthreelevels.For20to30productspercountry,basicinformationontheproductswillbeprovided.For3to6(percountry)particularlyinterestingproducts,more in depth information will be provided.This information will serve for the selection of the future Presidia.As regardseachof the fourPresidia (oneper country), detailed informationon the linkwith territory,historicalandculturalaspects,tasteandnutritionalcharacteristics,environmentalandsocialsustainability,andpotentialtocontributetofoodsovereignty,willbeprovided.
The following products have so far been identified as interesting ones. The list reflects the current stage of this mapping effort and cannot be considered final.
GuINeA BISSAu
TraditionalpalmoilofCabedùCitrinuslocal(localcitrusvarieties)LocaltraditionallemonvinegarLocallittletomatosinho(“tomatedaterra”)Tambacumba(forestplant,interestinguseofthefruitandseed)Mancarradobijacos(localvarietyofbeanfromtheArcipelagodelleBijacos)Quiabolocal(localvarietyofgombo,smallerandverytasty)Jacatoulocal(smalllocalvarietyofeggplant)Badjiqui(localhibiscus)Localvarietiesofrice
MAlI
Alkamawheat(localvariety)TikomartTouaregcheeseOufer(Touaregjujubebread)Macinasheep(localrace)KramKram(wildcereal,centralplaceintheTouaregcultureandgastronomy)
SeNeGAl
SaltedmilletcuscusofFadiouthMangroveshoney(Saloumislands)Kinkeliba(herbaltea)BlackvelvettamarindpowderSumpalmonds(Balanitesaegyptiaca):seedsoilisparticularlyinterestingDanx(Detariummicrocarpum):interestinguseofthefruit,seedsandleavesTol(LandolphiaHeudelotii):liana:interestinguseofthefruit(beer,dyeing)Kejax:braiseddriedfishDimb(cordylapinnata):fruit,interestinguseofunmaturefruitasasustitutetomeatNéré(ParkiaBiglobosa):fruitusedinseasoning,interestinguseofthefruittopreparesubtituteofmilkforyoungchildrenJaxatu(solanumaethiopicum):nativeeggplant:useoffruitandleaves,interestingprocessedproductsNdur(cassiatora):leafyvegetable,interestinggastronomicuseMadd(Sabasenegalensis):liana,interestinguseofthefruit,interestingprocessedproductsBissap(Hibiscussabdariffa):interestinguseoftheleavesasvegetablesRon(BorassusAethiopium):palmtree,interestinguseofthefruit(wine,analcoholicbeverage)Ditax(DetariumSenegalensis):interestinguseofthefruitandleavesFonio:minorcerealSapsap(moringaoleifera):oneofthemostnutrientleafyvegetablesofAfrica,interestinguseintraditionalmedicine.Neou(pommierduCayor)(Neocaryamacrophylla):veryinterestinguseofthefruit(processedasakindofcouscous)andoftheseed(cosmeticqualityoil).Sidem(Jujube)(ZizyphusMauritaniana):manyinterestingprocessedproducts(flour,beverages,marmalade,...)ThédeGambie(herbaltea)Xewer(cerisierduCayor)(aphaniasenegalensis):interestinguseoftheseedsasanaturallaundrysoap
SIeRRA leoNe
Bittercolanut(originaryfromSierraLeone):usedinbeveragepreparation,butalsoasdeyingTeaBushandBushteabush(herbaltea)KoinaduguHoneySounbareh(seasoningbasedonthelocusttreeseed)Pigeonpea(legume)BlackNdama(“Waneh”):cattle
The following products can be considered possible future Presidia.
Theprojectdocumentforeseesthat“theselectionprocesswillhavetoreceivetechnicalclearancebytheFAOLeadTechnicalUnit”.SlowFoodisinclosecontactwithMs.Vandecandelaere(FAOHQ,AGND)forsuchexercise.
GuINeA BISSAu
1.TraditionalpalmoilofCabedù
Thecheapestandmostversatileofoils,palmoilhasawide rangeofusesboth industriallyand in thekitchen.Worldwideproduction,estimatedatover45milliontons,continuestogrow,pushedbystrongglobaldemand.Of
thisproduction,90percent is concentrated inMalaysiaand Indonesia,where theoil palm isa relatively recentintroduction,firstcultivatedbytheBritisharoundthemiddleofthe19thcentury.Theuseofpalmoil,however,hasanancienthistoryinsub-SaharanAfrica,anditsextractionisstillacommonagriculturalpracticehere.Whilepalmoilisextractedandconsumedthroughouttheregion,Guinea-Bissauissaidtobethecountrybestsuitedtoitsproduction.Guinea-Bissau’spalmoil ishighlyappreciatedinSenegal,SierraLeone,Côted’Ivoire,MaliandBurkinaFaso.TheresearchconductedbySlowFoodinCabedù, intheTombalìregion,hasconfirmedthisreputation.Wewereveryimpressedwiththelevelofknowledgeamonglocalpopulationsaboutthequalitydifferencesofoils,basednotonlyonsensorycharacteristicsandproductionvariablesbutalso,andaboveall,differentplacesoforigin.Findingsuchalevelofawarenesselsewhereinthispartoftheworldisveryrare.
TheoilpalmvarietyfoundinGuinea-BissauisElaeisguineensisJacq.,anativespecies(asindicatedbyitsscientificname).Acharacteristicredoil,atraditionalandhighlyappreciatedproduct,isextractedfromthepalmfruits.Theoilisusedtoprepareaspecificricedish,knownascaldodeTcheben.
AllthecommunitiesfromthenorthtothesouthofGuinea-Bissau,downtotheBijagosislands,producepalmoilfromwildpalms.TheoilisknowninCreoleassitivermelho.
Traditionallytherearefourtypesofoil,accordingtotheirgeographicalorigin:Bijagossiti,Manjacasiti,BiafadasitiandTchondeNalussiti.Thesearedifferentiatedbytheirquality,theirplaceoforiginandtheprocessingtechniquesused.Eachoftheethnicgroupshasadifferentknowledgelinkedtotheuseofpalmoilandprocessesitindifferentways.TheBiafadadrythefruitsoverafireinsteadofinthesun.TheManjacadonotboilittwiceanddonotcareifthefruitsarefreshornot.TheBijacoshavepalmsthatproducefruitswithahigherlevelofcarotene,buttraditionallytheyfermentthefruitsbeforeboilingthem,considerablyloweringtheoil’squalitylevel.
TheoilcommonlyrecognizedasthebestistheTchondeNalussiti.Thequalityofthisoilcomesfromtheskillandcarewithwhichitisproduced,makingittotallydifferentfromtheotheroils.
TheNalushavealsomaintainedtheMandji.Thistraditionalriteallowsthecommunitytoproperlymanagetheforestanditsresourcesandtoharvestthepalmfruitsattherighttime.Accordingtotradition,agroupofeldersgatherstogetherafewweeksbeforetheharvesttodecidetheexactdayitcanbegin.Itisconsideredverydangeroustoventureintotheforestwithouttheirpermission.
Weareparticularlyinterestedinasmallcommunityofproducersinthevillage(reglado)ofCabedù,inthesouth,inTchondeNalus.Itismadeupof31people(26womenand5men).Theharvestersarenotorganizedinanyformalgrouping.Aroundtwotothreemenareneededfortheharvest.Thiscommunityisoneofthefewinwhichallthreeethnic groups are represented.This contributes greatly to the quality of the finished product, as the traditionalwisdomsofthethreegroupscomplementeachother.TheCabedùgroupproducesaround1,200litersayear.Thegroupdoesnotsellonthelocalmarket,butproducesonlyforfamilyuse.TheyonlysellsometoTininguena,ourlocalpartner,whobuysupto700litersofoilayearandsellitdirectlyintheirstoreandalsoinsupermarketslikeDarlingandBonjourinBissau.Tininguenabuystheoilat1,000CFAfrancsperliterandraisesthepriceby20percentforthefinalconsumer.
Ifstoredwell,theoilcankeepitsnutritionalandsensorycharacteristicsforuptotwoyears.ButgiventheconditionsoftheAfricanmarketitisadvisabletokeepitfornolongerthanayear.Traditionallyitisstoredinplastictubs,reusingandrecyclingothercontainers (mayonnaise jars,plasticbottles,vinagrede limãocontainers). Itwouldbehighlyrecommendedtousestainlesssteeltanks.
AcomparativetastingorganizedduringSlowFood’ssecondmissiontoSierraLeonebyanItalianexpertinfoodoilsconfirmedtheCabedùpalmoil’ssensorycharacteristics.
Additionally,theethnicheterogeneityandtheecologicalaspectsofthisoil’sproductionmakeitofparticularinterestasapotentialPresidium.
These socio-cultural aspects are joined by the need to raise the level of knowledge of consumers in the Northcountriesaboutthisoil.Notsomuchaboutthenutritionalandhealthcharacteristicsoftheoil itself(thedebateabouttheeffectsofpalmoil,asaturatedfat,oncholesterollevels,hasbeenextensive),butabouttheenvironmentalimpactoftheincreasingspreadofoilpalmplantations,whichcauseseriousdeforestation.Consumershavelittleinformationabouttheseissues.Acertificationsystemwassetupseveralyearsagotoguaranteetheprovenanceofoilfromlandthathasnotbeendeforested,butonly3milliontonsofoilarecertifiedoutofthetotal45millionsoldoverall.
TheideaoflaunchingaSlowFoodPresidiumthatprotectsandpromotestraditionalpalmoilfromGuinea-Bissau(orratherfromaspecificareaofthecountry,theTombalìregion),wouldhaveconsiderablevalueintermsofmarketingandsafeguarding.Ofcourse,thePresidiumwouldprimarilyaimtoprotectandpromotetheworkofthewomenwhoextracttheoilusingtraditionalmethods.Itmustguaranteethemaccesstoamoreprofitablemarketandhelpthemtointroducesomesmallimprovementstotheextractionprocessandoilstorage,facilitatingthesaleoftheoiloutsidetheproductionarea.Butadditionally,makingconsumersintheNorthcountriesawareoftheexistenceoftheseancientharvestingandextractiontechniques—which,itshouldbeemphasized,useonlywildnativepalms—canimprovetheirunderstandingoftheagroindustrialmarketforpalmoil,oneofthecommoditieswiththebiggestimpactonforestpreservationandbiodiversityconservationinverysensitivehabitats.
2.SmallLocalLemon(LimãodaTerra)
Thecategoryofcitrinos,localcitrusfruits,includeslimãodaterra,laranjaandtangerina.TheyaremostlygrowninthesouthernTombaliregion.ThelocalvarietiesdonothaveascientificnameinGuinea-Bissaubutarecalled“daterra”anditseemsthattheyhavealwaysbeencultivatedinthecountry.ThePortuguesebroughtavarietyofcitrinoscalled“dalia”or“dania.”
Thelocalvarietiesareallcultivatedandtheseedsreproduced.Amongthecitrinos,themostproductiveistheorange,grownbothforlocalconsumptionandforexporttoSenegal.ItissaidtobemoreflavorfulthantheorangesfromCasamance,inSenegal.Thetangerinaismostatriskofextinctionbecausetherainshavebecomeshorterthantheywereinthepast.
Peoplepreferthelimãodaterrabecauseitismoreflavorfulandthejuicecanbekeptforlonger.
Thelimãodaterraispreservedintwoways:1)thefruitsarepressedbyhandtoextractthejuice,whichisboiledandbottled;2)thefruitsarepressedbyhandandputfreshinacontainer.Theseprocessedproductsarecalled“vinagre.”
Theseedsarepreservedbybeingwashed,driedsomewhereshadyandairy,thenstoredinacontainer.
Forgrafting,theytakethemostmaturepartofthebranch,tyingitwithanelasticbandandwrappingitwithanotherelasticbandsothatwatercannotenter.Tofertilizethesoiltheyusericehusksandbeans.Thesearelefttorotinaholeandafterthreemonths,whendecompositionbegins,theyareusedasafertilizer.Theycanalsobemixedwithanimalexcrement.Thebarkofawild tree (bishilau inPortuguese) isused forprotection frompests.Thebark issoakedinwater;someboilthewaterandletitcool,whileothersuseitwithoutboiling.Thisinfusionispouredonthesoilaroundtheplantandhelpsprotectagainsttermites.Smokingisusedtokeepfruitfliesaway:textiles(acidic)areburnedaroundthetree.Thetraditionallemonisthemostresistanttofruitflies,butconsideringtheclimatechangesand theshorteningof the rainyseasons, it struggles toproduceunlessgraftedwithstrongerandmoreclimate-resistantvarieties.Thecitrinoscombinewellwithcassava,peanutsandbeans,whichcleanandfertilize thesoil.Traditionallylimãodaterraiscultivatedinthemato,theforestlefthightokeepthehumidity.Theyfollowastraightlinetoplantthecitrinos.
Thelimãoisgreenwhenunripe,andyellowwhenfullyripe.Whenripe, it fallsnaturallytotheearth,whereit isharvested.Itproducesfruitcontinuously,buttheperiodofhighestproductionisduringtherainyseason(June,July,August,September).TheharvesttakesplaceinOctober.
Alemontreehasaminimumlifespanof40-45years.Sometimesitisplantedclosetohousesasprotectionfromsunandwind,thankstoitslow,wideshape.Thefruitsareharvestedeverytwodays.Thelocallemonfruitsfalltoearthwhentheyarereadytobeharvested.Theyellowfruitsareusedtomakevinagreandlemonjuice.Somecommunitiesleavetheharvestedlemonsinthesunforsometimebeforemakingjuice.
ThelimãoisexportedtoSenegal,Gambia,MaliandEurope(tosupplyGuineanswhohaveemigratedtoEurope).Demandisrising.Restaurantspreferthegreenlemons,becausetheylastlongerandmakeabetteraccompanimenttobeverageslikeCocaCola,Fantaandothersodas.
Everyyearaplantcanproducearound100liters.Twobasinsoffruitproducearound20litersofjuiceandeverybasinfulloffruitweighsaround25kilos.Thelemondoesnotproducethesameamountoffruiteveryyear.Usuallylargeharvestscomeeverytwoyears,becausethetreehasayearofrestduringwhichfruitproductionislower.Thefarmercanrecognizethisphenomenonfromthecoloroftheleaves,whichappearpaler.
Vinagredelimãoisusedtomakeacondiment:sumodelimão+malagueta(hotpepper)+salt.Thejuicecanalsobemadewithsugar.Itisrecommendedtomixlemonwithwaterduringcholeraepidemicstodisinfectthewater.Itisalsousedtomarinatefishforaround30minutesbeforegrillingorfrying.Thelemonsauceisusedincaldobranco(inCreole),alocaldishbasedononions,fish,waterandvinagredelimão.
Fortheecologicalwayinwhichisitcultivated,foritsimportanceinlocalgastronomyandculture,itscommercialpotentialanditsnutritionalvalue,thelocallimãodaterraisahigh-qualitylocalproductofgreatinterest.
3.LocalCherryTomato(localname:mentem,sinhoinCreole)
ThelocalcherrytomatoisprimarilyfoundinthesouthandnorthofBissau,inBiombo.InBiombo,thePepelethnicgroup produces this local variety in the greatest quantities. It is customary to construct a natural enclosure ofjatrophaaroundthehouses,andthisindeterminategrowthtomatousesthejatrophaforsupport.
Inthesouth,itistheBalantaethnicgroupthatmostcommonlycultivatesthisvariety.Theytendtogrowitduringtherainyseasontogetherwithrice,mixingtheseedstogetherandscatteringtheminthericepaddies.Thericematuresearlierandisharvestedafteraround60days,whilethecherrytomato,whichstartstoripenimmediatelyafterthericeharvest,hasacycleoftwotothreemonths.Inthesouth,thecherrytomatoesareturnedintosauce:theyaresqueezedbyhand,separatingtheseedsandtheskinfromthepulp.Thispulpisboiledwithsaltuntilitbecomesconcentrated,thenstored in jars.Sometrainedwomenpoura littleoliveoiloverthetopofthepreservebeforeclosingthejars.ThisconcentrateisproducedfromOctoberonwards.
Thischerrytomatoisstillcultivatedmostlybythesetwoethnicgroups.
Thetraditionalcherrytomatohasahigheryieldandisbettersuitedtotheenvironmentthantheintroducedvariety.Thisvarietyhasnoneedforchemicalinputs.Itmustonlybesownandtheplantsweeded.
Theseedsarethrownagainstthekitchenwallsorlefttodryonthestrawwhichislaterarrangedinthekitchen.Thisallowsthesmokeandheatfromcookingtoprotecttheseedsfromvariousinsects.Othersmixtheseedswithash,againtoprotectfrominsects.Itshouldbenotedthatashisoftenusedinvegetablegardensonplantsandvegetableleavestokeepinsectsaway.
Thereisadishcustomarilyeateninthetabanca(villages)calledcontangudetomate.Thisveryflavorfuldishisbasedontomatopulpwithchiob,jacatuandshrimpordriedfish.Dependingonpreferenceitcanbeservedwithrice.
Fortheecologicalwayinwhichisitcultivated,foritsimportanceinlocalgastronomyandculture,foritsnutritionalvalueanditsseedautonomy,thelocalcherrytomatoisahigh-qualitylocalproductofgreatinteresttoSlowFood.
MAlI
1.TheMacinasheep
TheMacinasheepistheonlywooledsheepkeptbytheFulanipastoralists.AlongwiththeDongola,itistheonlynativewooledanimalsouthoftheSaharaandbelongstotheGoundoun(alsoknownasDoundounorKoundoum)race.ItprobablydescendsfromNorthAfrica’swooledthin-tailedsheepandwasintroducedtoitspresentareaofdistributionbyMoorsandMoroccansduringtheconquestofTimbuktu in the15thand16thcenturies. It isalsobelieved, probably erroneously, to bedescended fromKarakul or fromvarious crosses ofMerinowith SyrianorBarbarysheepinancienttimes.MacinaistheFulaniwordfortheNigerRiverfloodzone.
TheMacinabreedisuniquetotheNigerBendinsouth-centralMali,althoughadegenerateformcalledGoundounisfoundinwesternNiger.TheMacinasheepwasdevelopedandmaintainedmainlybytheMacinaFulanitribesmenusing seasonal migration practices.This breed is exceptionally hardy and robust, being resistant to extremes oftemperature,droughtandpoornutrition.
Thissheepcanbeusedformilk,woolandmeat.
Thereareveryfewexamplesleft.Thedeclineinnumbersisdueprimarilytothelowvaluegiventothebreed’swool,anditssmallsizemeansthatlocalpopulationshavefavoredlargerbreedswithmoremeat.Forthisreasonandforitsspecificandexclusivelinkwiththelocalarea,itmakessensetoconsidertheMacinasheepbreedasapossiblePresidium.
2.Kramkram
ThegrassCenchrusbiflorusproducesaedibleandhighlynutritiousgrain.Peopleinareasofmarginalsubsistenceregularlycollecttheseed;elsewhereitisconsideredafaminefood.IntheSahelitiscollectedasawildcereal,forexamplebytheTuaregpeople,whocallitkram-kram.Thegrainsarepoundedandeatenraw,madeintoporridge,ormixedandcookedwithotherfoods.Thegrainisalsomadeintoadrink.
Inthepast,itwasthedominantcerealofboththeSahelandtheborderlandbetweentheSahelandtheSahara.Historicallyitwasamoreimportantfoodthanpearlmillet,anditsgrainsweremilledintoflourandusedtomakeakindofporridge.
Kram-kramgrowsverywellinthesandandneedslittlewater.Thegrainisrichinproteinandhasperhapsthehighestcaloriecontentofanygrain.Todayitisonlycollectedwhentheharvestsofothergrainsarenotsufficienttofeedthecommunity.
Theplant’sflawisthatitsgrainisenclosedinaspinycoveringthatgetsstucktoanimalfurandpeople’sclothes,butthishasneverbeenperceivednegativelybytheTuareg,whosedietisstillcloselyconnectedtotheconsumptionofkram-kram.
Whenthefruits(takanà)ripeninDecember,thegrains(wasaille)fallonthesand.Theysticktogether,androllintoballsastheyarepushedbythewind.Thewomencollecttheballswithstraworbysweepingthemupwithrakesmadefromacaciawood.Theseedsarethenhulledinamortar,extractingthewhitegrainfromitsspinycovering.Duringtherainyseason,theplantcanbecutmorethanonceandusedforhaywhenitisspineless,orpreservedintraditionalsilos.Inthiscasethepresenceofspinesdoesnotcreateproblemsbecausefermentationsoftensthemandtheycanthenbedigestedbyanimals.
Themainreasonforthedeclineofthisgrainisthesignificantreductioninsuitableland.ThisfactorisalsopartlylinkedtotheTuareg’stransitionfromnomadictosemi-nomadic(andalmostsedentary)life.Sedentarylifeencourageslocalizedgrazing,whichdoesnotallowtheplanttoproducegrains.Anotherfactorcanbecorrelatedtothedecrease
inimportanceandstrengthofthetraditionalauthorities,whowereonceverymindfulofthiswildgrain.
Encouraging the processing and consumption of this grain (awareness-raising and promotion, technical andmarketingsupport)couldhavenotonlyanenvironmentalimpact,combattingdesertification,butalsoanimportantculturalaspect(cohesionoftheTuaregcommunity,pridefortheirgastronomicculture)andbeveryvaluableintermsoffoodsovereignty.
3.Tikomart
TheTuareg(ormorecorrectlyKelTamahaq,“thosewhospeakTamahaq”)areanAfricanBerberpeoplewholivenomadicallyorsemi-nomadically in theSaharadesert. InMali, thiscommunity isconcentrated in the regionsofTimbuktu,GaoandKidal.Theymostlyraiselivestock,gatherwildgrainslikekram-kramandwildfonioandcultivatealocalwheatvarietyand“riverrice.”Theirtraditionaldishesarebasedonmeat,butterandgrains.
Milk(akh)playsanessentialroleamongtheTuaregpastoralists,becauseitnourishes,refreshesandcures.Alsoofgreatimportanceintheirgastronomicculturearedairyproductslikemeltedbutter(widi)andadrycheese.
Tikomartisacheesemadefromcoworgoat’smilk,oramixofthetwo,whichissodehydratedthatitcannolongerbechewed.Onlyamortarandpestlecanbeusedtobreakitintopiecessoitcanbeeatensoakedinteaormixedintomilletporridge;thischeeseisthusessentiallyaseasoning.Apieceofdriedkid’sstomachprovidestherennettocurdlethemilkinalargewoodenvat.Usingabigladle,womendrawoutthecurdledmilkandplaceitonamattodrain.Theyshapethecheesesbyhandbeforeplacingthemonstemsofwildfennelforflavouring.
MilkandmilkproductsareofenormousimportanceinTuaregculture.
AccordingtotheTuaregmythology,whentheworldwascreated,onecamelalonefedthewholehumanrace;shewaskilledbymen.
Milkisthemainfoodstuff,bothforitsnutritionalqualityandsymbolicvalue.Camelmilkispreferredforitstaste,whichvarieswiththepastures,andthestrengthitgives.Intheevening,aftermilking,themilkcupispassedaroundandeveryonehasadrinkofthispreciousfood.Akhisthegenerictermsforallmilk,regardlessofthequalityortheanimalitcomesfrom;however,anadjectiveisusedtospecifywhetherthemilkisfresh,soured,curdledordiluted.Shepherdsmakeuseofafullrangeoftechniquestomakesuretheykeepasufficientamountofmilkforfood.Theamountofmilkinfoodvarieswiththeseasons,withamaximumafterthemonsoonandaminimuminthedry,hotseason.Milkisthestaplefoodandcereals–milletorwheat–aremerelyseasonings.
Milkfromdifferentanimals,itsrespectiveproduction,usesandby-products(rennet,butter,cheese)haveamajorculturalandsymbolicvalueinpastoralTuaregsocietyandinvolveadeepunderstandingofanimalpsychology.TheseelementsmaketikomartcheeseaproducttobeconsideredachoiceofaPresidiainMali.
4.Ouferbread
Ziziphus,commonlycalled jujube(sometimes jujuba)belongstothefamilyRhamnaceae.ThegenusZiziphushasapproximately40species,includingZiziphusmauritiana,(“jujubiernainsauvage”inFrench).
Ziziphusmauritianaisaspiny,evergreenshruborsmalltreeupto15mhigh,withtrunk40cmormoreindiameter,spreadingcrown,stipularspinesandmanydroopingbranches.Thefruitisofvariableshapeandsize.Itcanbeoval,obovate,oblongorround,andisaround2.5cmlong.Thefleshiswhiteandcrisp.Whenslightlyunderipe,thisfruitisabitjuicyandhasapleasantaroma.Thefruit’sskinissmooth,glossy,thinbuttight.
ThefruithasahighsugarcontentandahighlevelofvitaminsA&C,carotene,phosphorusandcalcium.Theleavescontain6%digestiblecrudeprotein,whichisanexcellentsourceofascorbicacidandcarotenoids.Thisplancanthusprovidefoodsecurity,duetosustainedproductionofthefruit,irrespectiveofdrought,asthetreeisdroughtandsalinetolerantandcangrowonpooranddegradedland.
ThefruitofZiziphusmauritianahasbeenconsumedbyTouaregspopulationsformillenia.
InsomeTuaregtribes inMali, theflourobtainedfromthedriedpulpofwild jujube isused intheproductionof“oufer”,atypeofunleavenedbreadwhichkeepsthroughouttheyearandissoldinthemarketsofGao.Ouferlookslikeathickpancake,withaholeinthemiddleorattachedtoaforkedsticksothatitcanbehungfromacamelsaddlewithacordorbelt.
Thisproduct,becauseof itsplace in theTouaregculture,of itsestheticcharacteristicsandbecauseof its riskofextinctioninspiteofremarquablenutritionproperties,istobeconsideredapossiblePresidia.
SeNeGAl
1.SaltedcoucousofFadiouth
Senegal’sfoodsovereigntyisthreatenedbytwomajorissues:aworryingdeclineinmarineresourcesandaheavydependenceonimportedfood,particularlyrice.Thereisnoneedtodwellhereonthesewell-documentedproblems.InviewofthesituationinSenegal,SlowFoodhasfocuseditsworkinthecountryonreducingfooddependenceonimportsandthesea.Wehavedonethisontheonehandbysettingupeducationactivitiesinschoolsaimedatincreasingawarenessaboutlocalproductsandtheirconsumption,andontheotherbydevelopingprojectsthatcanguaranteeresourcesfromsourcesotherthanthesea.
These projects have been concentrated on the Îles du Saloum national park, where the fishing crisis has beenevidencedbytheprogressivereductioninsizeoftheCymbiumseasnail,agastropodmolluskwhichrepresentsthearea’smostimportantmarineresource.Theanalysisofthelocalsocio-economicsituationandsuccessivemappingoftypicalproducts,carriedoutthankstoacollaborativeprojectwiththeFAO,hasallowedustoidentifypossiblealternatives.
Undoubtedly,theabundanceofwildfruitscanensureemploymentandincometothewomen’scooperatives,whocanprocessthemintojuicesandjamsandsellthemdirectlyinsitu.ButanotherinterestingalternativetofishingcouldcenteronaspecialtyidentifiedontheislandofFadiouth,milletcouscoussaltedwithseawater.The product expresses thebest of local foodproduction, usinggrains that have longbeen cultivated inlandonFadiouthandclearlyreflectingalinkwiththeisland’ssurroundingmarinehabitat.Washingthecouscousinseawateris,asfarasweknow,uniqueamongcouscousproductiontechniquesfromotherregions,andgivestheproductanentirelyoriginalflavorandfragrance.Theprocedureiswellknownlocallyandallfamiliesknowhowtomakecouscoussalè,butnoneisproducedforsaleandstrangelynoneoftheisland’srestaurantsofferit.Perhapstheythinkitistoolow-class,ortoounusualforWesterntastes.Butourexperiencesatthe2010SalonedelGustoinTurinwithsomeofthewomenfromtheFadiouthfoodcommunityshowedtheopposite.Curiousvisitorstothefairlovedthedish,thanksalsotothesaucespreparedbythewomenwhichpairedwellwiththebrinytasteofthecouscous.
WebelievethatthiscouscousshouldbecomeaSlowFoodPresidiumforanumberofreasons:•Itoffersafascinatingstory,whichcanshedlightonanancient,traditionalandoriginalproductthatlinkslandandsea.•Itcanencourageareturntothecultivationofsunnamillet,whichhasdecreasedsignificantlyinrecentyears.• It will motivate the local inhabitants to maintain the health of the marine waters and the cleanliness of thebeaches,toguaranteethatthecouscousiswashedhygienically.•Itcanencourageaprocessofincreasedself-esteemamongthewomenwhoproduceitandthelocalpopulation;internationalrecognitionwillfacilitatetheinclusionoftheproductonlocalrestaurantandhotelmenus,supportingparallelentrepreneurialactivities(thecreationofsauces,newrecipes,newformsofrestaurants);andofcourseitcan
representasmallbutsignificantsourceofincomefortheisland’sfamilies.• It can inspire inhabitants to rediscover other traditional local products and recipes, which could help reducedependenceonimportedriceandwheat.•ItwillhelptoestablishimportantrelationshipswiththeSaloumdelta’stourismindustry,whichisofinterestbuthasnotbeenproperlydeveloped.
2.Mangroveshoney(Saloumislands)
MangrovehoneyismainlycollectedintheSine-Saloumdelta-around15kmfromDakar,Senegal.
Mostofthemangrovesinthisarea,about60,000ha,areintheRéservedeBiospheredudeltaduSaloum,runbytheNationalParkAuthority.Thecentralpart,i.e.theNationalPark,ismanagedbythestate,theReserveinsteadbylocalcommunities.TheParkandtheReservearesituatedintheSineandSaloumdelta,aregionincludingseveralisles,lagoonsandtheFathalaforest,withthelargestpartoflandcoveredbymangroves,forestsandsaltwaterstreams.ThedominantmangrovespeciesareRhizophoraracemosa,Rhizophoramangle,RhiziphoraharissonniandAvicennianitida.
Theseforestsareconsideredasreal“honeyreserves”.Indeed,beekeepinginthisarea,withthesuitableimprovements,mightbeanimportantactivityforitspositiveimpactontheenvironment:firereduction,entomophilicpollination,protectionofbiologicalbiodiversity,safeguardingofbeecolonies,etc...Moreover,astheapiariesarelocatedinsidethemangroveforest,thebees’aggressivenessisanexcellentwaytoprotectthemangrovesagainstoverexploitation.
TheproductionofhoneyinthisareainmainlyduetotheApismellificaadansonii,atypeofbeeknownforitscapacitytoproducebigquantitiesofhoney,whichfiercelydefendsitscolony,reproducesquicklyandtendstoswarming.
Twoexceptionalqualityhoneysareproducedinthisarea:
• Mangrovehoney(Rhizophoraracemosa,Rhizophoramangle,RhiziphoraharissonniandAvicennianitida):theplantsgrowonasurfaceof70,000ha,withbloomtakingplacethroughouttheyear,allowingtheproductionofasingle-floralhoneycalled“mieldepalétuviers”.Somestudieshaveshownthatthepotentialyieldofthishoneycouldreach70tonsperyear.• Multifloral or forest honey: on the land there are different typesof forests, community reserves, severalorchards – mango, citruses and cashew nut – as well as important nectar yielding plants, such as Combretumglutinosom,Cordylapinnata,Zizyphusmauritiana,Parkiabiglobosa,AcaciaSeyal,Detariumsenegalense,eucalyptus,fromager,Santang,….
Traditionalbeehives,whicharegraduallydisappearing,consistofhollowtrunks,mortarsandplaitedstraw.Sofar,Langstrothhasbeenthemaintypeofmodernbeehivemainlyused.Thebeehivesareusuallyplacedonthebeach,nexttothemangrovetreesoronwoodensupportstopreventthewatercontact.Thehoneyistransferredbyusingherbsandscentedplants(e.g.citronella)orcollectinghoneywithsomepiecesofwax.
Traditionally,thebeekeepersuseaninflamedtorchtocollecthoney,withoutanyconcernforthebees,thequantityofcollectedhoney,therisksoffireandtheanaphylacticshockresultingfromthebeestings.Inthemangrovearea,beekeepersreachthebeehiveswiththeirpirogueswhenthetideislow.Thehoneyiskeptinplasticjugsby750gr,500and300gr.
3.Kinkeliba
KinkelibaisknownbythescientificnameofCombretummicranthumandispartofthelargecombretumfamily.Itsnamesinlocallanguagesare“dute”inWolof,“sesed”inSerer,“talli”or“tallika”inFulaand“futik”inJola.
ItoriginatesintropicalAfricaandisfoundinaregionspreadingfromtheCasamancecoasttotheSenegalRiver.StandsofitgrowontheThièsPlateau.ItgrowsaroundpoolsintheSahel,inravines,theSudaneseforests,theedgesoftheferruginouscrust,intheGuineanforests;nonetheless,itdoesnotgrowinsomeareasorexperienceshighlyirregulargrowth.
Kinkeliba is a thick reddish-brown shrub that can reach 4 or 5 metres, sometimes growing closely together asthickets,withtheendsofbranchesintertwining.Itcangrowupto15to20mbylacingaroundthebranchesoftrees.Theleavesareoval,shortandwedge-shapedatthebase,acuminatedatthetopwithfivepairsoflateralnerves.Theleafbladeiscoveredinreddishscalesonthelowersideaswellaspetiolesandyoungshoots.Thisbladebecomesreddishbrownasitdries.Theflowersaresmallandwhite,andgroupedininflorescences.Thefruitiswingedwith4membranouswingswhichare1.5cmlongand1.5cmwide.
ItbearsleavesbetweenAprilandSeptember;theyareusedintea.
Kinkelibaissoldinbundlesalongtheroadorpackagedinsachetsofherbaltea.
TheleavesareconsumedonadailybasisbySenegalesefamiliesinextractform(infusion)atbreakfasttime.KinkelibaistheherbalteaofcommunitieslivingintheSahel.Itisthe“teaoftheSahel”.Itisalsoverypopularinurbancentres,oftenconsumedwithpowdermilkorfreshmilk.
Itstherapeuticbenefitsforillnessessuchasmalaria,liverdiseasesandcoughsareverywellknown.Scientifictestsshowthat32%ofdriedleaveshaveantioxidantproperties.Kinkelibacontainsflavonoids,tannins,organicacidsandmineralsalts.Tanninsgivekinkelibaantidiureticandantibioticbenefits.
WhentheArabsandEuropeansdiscoveredit,itbecamethedrinkofpreferenceofsoldiers,priestsandmissionaries,whocalledit“theherbalteaoflonglife”.
Intraditionalmedicine,theleavesasanextractorconcoctionareusedasadiuretictofacilitatethesecretionofbileandimprovedigestion,cholagoguesandintreatingcoughs,bronchitis,malariaandhepatobiliaryproblemssuchassupplements.Itisgenerallyacceptedasaverygooddetoxifier,withcholagoguepropertieswhichremoveoedemas,toxins and excess weight, without side effects.The leaves contain quite specific properties against black-waterfever,anacuteandseriousillness,whichisoftenfatal.Theirreputationissuchthatkinkelibahasalmostbecomesynonymousasa“healingplant”.
InthecurrentfoodcontextinSenegal,whichhasbeenhijackedbyindustrially-producedpoorqualityfoodproducts,mainlyfromAsia,thisremarkableproductdeservestoattracttheattentionoftheprojectGTFS/RAF/426/ITA.
4.Oilfromtheseedsofdesertdate(sump)
ThescientificnameofthedesertdatetreeisBalanitesAegyptia.Localnamesare“sump”inWolof,“muutoki”inToucouleur,“muurotoki”inFula,“model”inSererand“sumpo”inMandinka.
Itisathornyshrub,around8to9mhighwithlonghardythornsthatarestraightandupto8cmlong.
SumpiscommonlyfoundintheSahelduetoitsresistancetodraughtandovergrazing.
In Senegal, this species is common throughout the whole Sahel area of Senegal, particularly in Ferlo, the rivervalley,Jolof,CayorandWalouptoBaol.ItisfarlessfrequentlyfoundintheSudanesearea.InFouladouinLowerCasamance,itisfoundalongmajorroads,butneverinforests,whichindicatesthatithasbeenintroducedtotheareabytravellers.ItisalsonotfoundatallintheregionofKedougou.Itisaspeciesthathasveryfewrequirementswithrespecttosoiltype.Nonetheless,thebeststocksarefoundgrowinginclaysoil.Insufficientlyhumidconditions,thetreeisalwaysgreenandstartstobearfruitatbetween5and7yearsofage.
Thedesertdatetreehasremarkableanti-winderosionproperties(dunefixation).
Thefruitaregreenegg-shapeddrupesthatturnyellowwhenripe.Theyareintheshapeofdateswhichsurroundanoilseednutusedtoproduceavegetableoil.
Fruitscalled“desertdates”aregenerallyconsumedbycommunitieswhichenjoythem.Thepulptastesofgingerbread,buthasabitteraftertaste.
Theyareappreciatedfortheirlaxativepropertiesandasregulatorsofarterialhypertension.
Steepingthefruitinwaterprovidesapleasantdrink.Thewateryextractisalsousedtosuffocatefishandtohuntforthemmoreeasily.
Youngleavesandflowershoots,removedoftheirbitterness(throughboiling),areeatenasvegetablestoaccompaniesmeatsormillet.Youngshootsandleavesareusedtomakesauces.Theleavesalsoprovideafodderpreferredbyanimals,particularlygoatsandcamels.
Inperiodsoffamine,thefruitarecrushedandmixedwithcerealstoincreasetheirvolume.
Theseedsofthefruitareoilyandhavearemarkableoilcontent:morethan45%fatand24%protein.Thealmondsarethusasourceofedibleoilandproteins.Theycontain20-30%crudeproteinsand30-60%oil.Theyhavelessproteinthansoyabutmorethansesame,cottonorsunflower.
Themaininterestinthenutliesinitsoilrichness.Itprovidesaclearyellowoilwhichiscomparabletogroundnutoil.Itisascentlessoilandonewithoutastrongflavour,solidifyingbelow5oC.Theoilhasexcellentfoodproperties;itremainsstableduringcookinganddoesnotcreatesmokequickly.ItstraditionalculinaryuseinSenegalissimilartothatofbuttermilk.
Ithasaverybalancedmakeup.Itscontentofsaturatedacidsensuresithasaparticularconsistencyintemperateclimates.Asforunsaturatedacids,theycertainlygivethisoilgoodnutritionalvalue.Theimportanceofthenutritionalqualityoftheoildependsonthesizeofthecontentofessentialfattyacidssuchaslinoleicacid.
Itisalsousedtomakesoapandhasinterestingcosmeticbenefits.Itsepuloticbenefitsarewellknown.
InSenegal,theproductionofoilfromthenuthasnotbeendevelopedverymuchduetothearduousnessoftheworkandthedifficultyofextractingitbyhand.
Theremarkablequalitiesofdesertdatetreeoilarerelativelyunknown,eveninSenegal,anddeservethefullattentionofSlowFoodandprojectGTFS/RAF/426/ITA.
SIeRRA leoNe
1.Bittercolanut
Itrecallsthenameofthemostglobalizeddrinkintheworld,butithaslittletodowithit.ColaisafruitnativeofthetropicalforestsinWesternAfrica,especiallyofSierraLeoneandGuineaBissau,whereitcanstillbefoundwild.
Thereareover140speciesofcola,butthoseidentifiedinSierraLeonearetwo:bittercolaanddomesticcola.
Colaisbrownincolourandcontainscaffeine,colatin,theobromineandtannin.Thesearetheelementswhich,forcenturies,haveassociatedthisfruittothedifferentandimportantaspectsofdailylife:fromreligiouspractice,to
sexualorsocialrelationships.
InSierraLeone,colahasagreatsymbolicvaluebecauseitisconsumedduringritualsorceremonies,towelcomeguests,asthesymbolofsharedfriendship,ortosymbolizeareachedagreementorthereconciliationbetweentwoparties.Colaissaidtobethe“foodtobeshared”.
Inaddition,colahasalwaysbeenusedbytraditionalpharmacopoeia:apieceofcola,chewedafterthemeal,helpsdigestionandthecaffeinecontainedinthefruitcontributestokeepconcentration.
Thebittercola,smallerinsize,istraditionallymincedandmaceratedtomakeadrinkforself-consumption.
Domesticcola,instead,isusedbyMandingoandTemneethnicgroupsasdye.Itispowderedandmaceratedinwatertogenerateadyeappliedonclotheswhicharethendriedinthesun.
Threeproductshavebeengrownforcenturies inthesouth-easternregionsofSierraLeone(KenemadistrictandKailahun district): coffee, cocoa and cola nut. Cola is harvested twice a year, from July to September and fromNovembertoDecember.Thepodsarecutandopenedtotakethenutout.
Eachpodcontainsupto10nuts.Thenutsarestoredinbigshedsandfermentedfor3or4daysinalargecontainer,soakedincoldwaterorclosedinabagorputunderbananaleaves.Aftersomedays,theouterskinpeelsoffandthenutsarewashedincoldwater.Theyaredriedonthegroundinacoolanddryplaceforonedayandthenstoredinsidebasketsorbagsandcoveredwiththeleavesofthesametree.Thebagsarefinallysoldtointermediarieswhosellthemtothecapitalcityorabroad.
ThesmallandbittercolaofSierraLeoneisrenownedforitspreservabilityandtaste,thatiswhymerchantsoftencometoKenemafromtheneighbouringcountries(Senegal,Guinea,Mali).Thecurrentproductioninvolves100,000smallproducers(mainlywomenandyoungpeople),butitwouldneedsometechnicalsupporttoimprovesalesatlocalandinternational level.Thecivilwar,whichtragicallyaffectedthegenerationofskilledfarmersandcausedmassivemigration,hashadanimpactonthehandingoveroftraditionalknowledgetothenextgeneration.
ThePresidiumwouldbecreatedwiththepurposeofimprovingtheprocessingofbittercolaanditsuseformakingtraditionaldrinks.MarketsinEurope(Italy)havealreadybeenexplored.Indeed,informingwesternconsumersontheoriginofafruitwhosenameisexploitedbyamultinationalwhichproducesoneofthemostconsumeddrinksallovertheworldwouldgeneratecuriosityanddrawpeople’sattentiononthisproductanditsorigin,thuschangingtheimageofacountrywhich,otherwise,wouldonlybeassociatedtothewar.
2.Koinapureforesthoney
HoneyisproducedalloverSierraLeoneusingtraditionaltechniques,andhasdifferentcharacteristicsdependingonitsplaceoforigin.
KoinaPureForestHoney,identifiedbythemappingcarriedoutaspartoftheproject,comesfromtheKoinaduguregion,northofKabala. It is completelydifferent fromthehoney fromotherpartsof thecountry, thanks to therichnessanddiversityofflowersintheforest.Thehoneyisdarker,thickerandhasamoreintense,caramelizedflavor.Thecolorisadeepchestnutbrown.Onthenose,thescentrecallscarob,withspicednotes.Thecarobandspicesreturninthemouth,alongwiththesensationthatthehoneyhasbeencooked.Thecookedflavorcomesfromthehoneyextractionprocess,astheproducersputthecombsinapantoheatthewax.Whenthehoneyseparatesfromthewax,theyremoveit.Afterwardsitisfilteredand,fornow,soldlooseorinplasticcontainers.
Accordingtoourresearch,thisproductseemstobeverywellknownandappreciatedbothwithinthecountryandinneighboringcountries.
ThecommunityofMusaiaPureForestHoneyproducersareprimarilyricegrowers,butthecommunityreliesgreatlyon the honey to guarantee a small income. Between May andAugust, the producers prepare the fields for thecultivationofriceorvegetables,andthehoneyoffersagoodsourceofincomeduringthedryseason.ThehoneyiscollectedbetweenFebruaryandApril.Thebeekeepersworkatnight,smokingoutthehivesandcollectingthecombs.Theyuseregularclothes,withoutspecialglovesorshoes.Thebeecoloniesarekilledeveryyearandthehiveisusedfortwoyears.Obviously,therisksarehigh:uncontrolledfiresandbeestingsaretwopotentiallycommonproblemsduringthehoneygathering.Asmokysmellandtastepermeatethehoney,alteringitsoriginalflavor.
ThankstoanassistanceprojectrunbyFAOSierraLeone,theircollectiontechniquehasbeenimprovedandisnowinbetweenthetraditional(withcylindricalhiveshungfromthetrees)andmodern(withrationalhivesthatseparatethearea forbreeding from thehoneyproductionarea).Thehiveshavebeen improvedandplaced lower,whichmeansthewomencanalsoaccessthem.Thebeekeepershavelearnedtotakebettercareofthebeesandalsousethewax.Additionallyapresswasbuiltsothattheycanextractthehoneywithouthavingtoheatit.
Thisproduct’sexcellentreputationwouldjustifyfutureactivitiestosupporttheproducers,improvingcertainstepsalongtheproductionchain,trainingthebeekeepersaboutthesensoryqualityoftheirproduct,packagingthehoneyinglassjars,identifyingitwithalabeldescribingitscontentsthankstoapollenanalysisandstrengtheningthegroupofbeekeepersbyalsoinvolvingsomeyoungpeople.
3.Sounbareh
ThesoundbarehisatraditionalseasoningmadefromtheseedsoftheAfricanlocustbeantree(Parkiabiglobosa).TheplantiscalledNéréinEnglish,locosinKrio,NerehinMandingoandKuranko,andTabeiinThemne.TheAfricanlocustbeanisawildtreecommonlyfoundgrowinginthegrasslandsofSierraLeone.Ithasabroadcanopyandcanreachaheightof150feet.
Thetreeproduceslongflatpods,aroundonetotwofeetlong,inthemonthsofNovemberandDecember.ThepodsripeninMarchorApril.ThetreeisnativetotheSahelandSudanianzones.Therootsareabletoreachwater60metersbelowground.Theseedsofthenérépodsarehighinnutrients(protein,lipids,glucides,mineralsaltsandtraceelements,vitamins).Néréflourprovidesalltheaminoacidsessentialtothehumanbody,andisrichiniron,vitaminCandiodine(whichhasgivenitthereputationofbeingabletocureproblemsofgoiter).
ThelocustbeansorseedsareusedtoprepareaseasoningcalledsounbarehinMandingoorkaindainKrio.KrioisthelanguagenowmostwidelyspokenbyallthetribesinSierraLeone.
The harvested pods are shelled by hands and the pulp is washed off to leave clean seeds.The seeds are thenfermentedtogetherwithwoodashforatleastthreetofourdaystoenablethethickmesocarptodecompose,leavingonlythebrowncotyledon.Theseareboiledforawholedayoverahotfire,thentheboiledseedsarerefermentedforthreemoredays.Theseedsaredriedinthesunforseveraldaysuntiltheyturnathickblackcolor.Theycontainverylittlemoisture,whichmeanstheproductcanbekeptformonthsorevenyearswithoutdecomposing.Atthisstage,theproductcanbesold,keptorpreparedforfinalconsumptionasneeded.Apartfromtheharvesting,whichisdonebymenandboys,alloftheotheractivitiesarecarriedoutbywomen,generallyduringthedryseason.
Duringthefinalprocessing,thedriedblackseedsarefurtherroastedinasmallpotuntiltheymakeacrackingsound,thenpoundedinamortartogetherwithotheringredientslikepepper,fishorsalt,andsprinkledonthetopofcookedrice.Thepowdercanalsobeaddedtogreenvegetableslikespinachandpotatoorcassavaleaves.Itcanalsoreplacefishormeat in thesauce.Thepowdercanalsobeusedon itsown insoup,especiallywhenpreparingfood likepoultry,bushmeatorfishforimportantguests.ThesounbarehiseatenbyallagegroupsandisveryappreciatedintheMandingofamiliesinparticular.
ThedriedblacklocustbeansareasourceofincomefortheMandingowomenastheproductcanbekeptformonthsoryearsafterpreparationandsoldtotraderswhocomefromdistantregions,especiallyplaceswherethetreedoes
notgrowwell(forestedorurbanareas).Theproductisplacedinbasketsorbagsandsoldusinglocalmeasuressuchasanemptybuttercontainer(commonlycalled“buttercup”inKrio),smallplasticbagsoranyotherlocalcontainer.Somewomenalsomoisten thedry seeds so they canbemolded into lumps.Theseare soldata lowerprice tocustomerswhocannotaffordtobuybiggermeasures.
Severalfactorsnegativelyaffecttheavailabilityandconsumptionoftheocustbeans:indiscriminateharvestingandburningofthetrees,increasingdemandfortheproductfromallethnicgroupsandpressurefromlocalfaunaontheplant-monkeysandsquirrelscompetewiththehumanpopulationtoeatthefruit,especiallybeforetheydryout.
Sounbarehisinterestingfromanumberofangles.ItisanessentialproducttolocalSierraLeoneangastronomy,andisunderpressurefromvarioussources.Someofthispressureiscontradictoryasontheonehandthedemandfortheproductishighamongruralpopulations,buttheavailabilityoftheplantisindecline,whileontheothertheurbanorsemi-urbanpopulationstendtoreplaceitwithMaggicubes.TheprocessingoftheseasoningispartoftheMandingocultureanditsspreadamongotherethnicgroupsisafactorinsocialcohesion.Theproduct,particularlywhencomparedwiththeubiquitousindustrialstockcubes,hasasignificantnutritionalcontent.
4.TeabushandBushteabush
Teabush(Ocimumgratissimum,ocimumviride)andBushteabush(HyptisSuaevolens)aretwotypesofherbaltearathercommonlyusedinSierraLeone.Theyarepreparedwithdriedleavesofspontaneousorcultivatedplantsandareappreciatedfortheirmedicinalproperties.InSierraLeonetraditionalmedicinehasbeenavitalpartofhealthcareforcenturiesanditstilladdressesthebasicmedicalneeds for themajorityof thepeople.However,notmuchhasbeenachieved in thedocumentationandevaluationofthevastresourceofmedicinalplantsusedbythetraditionalhealers.
TheTeabushisalsoknowinSierraLeoneasthe“feverplant”.Ahotinfusionoftheleavescanbedrunk,liketea,withmilkandsugar.AphytochemicalanalysisconductedbytheRoyalBotanicGardensofKew(UnitedKingdom)reportedthebiologicalactivitiesofthespecieswhichcontainsalkaloids,glycosides,steroids,insecticidesandarachnicides.TheOcinumviridehasalsoantibiotic,bactericide, fungistaticandaromaticsubstances.Antibioticandfungistaticpropertiesallowtheproducerstosundrytheleavesandobtainasafefinalproductimmunetofungalandbacterialinfections.ThisspeciesgrowsspontaneouslyinIgaia(KoinaduguDistrict)andothernorthernregions.InNigeriaastudyhasdemonstratedthepotentialofvolatileoilderivedfromO.virideforuseastopicalrepellentagainstbitingadultSimuliumdamnosum.ThisresultisverypromisinginformulatingapotentandaffordablenaturalproductinthecontrolofOnchocerciasistransmission.StudiesintheforestareaofSierraLeonehaveshownthatOnchocerciasisiswidespreadthroughoutthecountry.Onchocerciasisisbothapublichealthhazardandsocio-economicproblemofconsiderablemagnitude.Theblackfliescauseitchinganddisfiguringskindisease,seriouseyelesions,andblindness.ThehabitofS.damnosum,crawlingontheskinoftheindividualconstituteanintolerablenuisance,theirpainfulbiteleadtobloodlossandserveasportalforviruses,bacteria,protozoa,andnematodeswhichthefliesmaycarryontheirbodies.Furthermore,theaqueousleafextractofOcimunviridedisplaysremarkableanti-diarrhoealactivity.InSierraLeonethisspeciesgrowswildintheforestanditsfreshleavesareemployedinthetraditionalmedicinetotreatintestinalwormsandstomachache.
Bushtea-bushiscommonlyconsumedasarefreshingandhealthyherbaltea.Thetasteisdelicateandsimilartolemongrass.
InSierraLeonethereisagreatpotentialforthecommercialexploitationofmedicinalplants.
SlowFoodisintouchwiththewomenoftheKoinaduguCooperative,whoprocessandsellthedriedleavesofTeabushandBushteabush.SomeofthesewomenattendedTerraMadreandtheSalonedelGusto2010(Turin,October2010)wheretheyexposedandsoldtheirproducts,withgreatsuccess.
SupportingtheCooperative,theproduction,processingandcommercialisationofthedriedleavesofTeabushand
Bushteabushwouldbejustifiedbythereputationoftheproductsinthepopulation,thescientificconfirmationoftheiroutstandingmedicinalpropertiesandthepotentialitiesintermsofincomesources.
5. planning of second field missions
Theplanningofthesecondfieldmissionsinthefourcountriesisasfollows:
GuineaBissau:20February-3March2011
SierraLeone:17-23April2011
Senegal:26April-6May2011
Mali:27April–4May2011
6. shoRt bibliogRaphy
SierraLeoneCountryreporttotheFAOinternationaltechnicalconferenceonplantgeneticresource,Freetown,June1995
Rapport national sur l’état des ressources phytogénétiques pour l’alimentation et l’agriculture (Mali), deuxièmerapportnational,juillet2007
Rapportnationalsurl’étatdesressourcesphytogénétiquespourl’alimentationetl’agriculture(Sénégal),deuxièmerapportnational,juin2008
LostCropsofAfrica:Vol.IGrains,Vol.IIVegetables,VolIIIFruits,NationalResearchCouncil,1996
FoodCultureInSub-saharanAfrica,FranOsseo-Assre,2005
Thebiodiversityoftraditionalleafyvegetables,Chweya,Eyzaguirre,1999
Thebookofediblenuts,FredericRosengarten,1984
TecnicaseSaberesLocaisdaTardicãoManjaca,FanceniH.Baldé,MaryFidelis,2008
Guiné-BissauteraSabi,LivrodereceitasdaCozinhadaterra,Tiniguena,2008
Small-scalepalmoilprocessinginAfrica,FAOagriculturalservicebulletin148
Desarbresetdesarbustesspontanésdel’AdrardesIforas(Mali),EhyaAgSidiyene,1996
TheusefulplantsofwesttropicalAfrica,Vol3,Burkill,H.M.,1985
Leshommesetlesplantes,SergioGiani,Aidemet,2010
Lesvariétésamélioréesnesontpastoujourslesmeilleures,Biodiversité:EchangesetDiffusiond’Expériences,2009
OriginsofAfricanplantdomestication,HarlanJ.,1976
I. MissionreportstoGuineaBissau,Mali,SenegalandSierraLeone
Annex
“Promoting origin-linked Quality Products in Four Countries (Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Senegal and Sierra leone)”
Guinea-BissauReport on the first mission to identify local quality products and their producers
(see item b. in Description of the Activities, Terms of Agreement/Project Document).
Mission from June 18 to 26, 2010
MISSIoN BACKGRouND
Thiswasthefirstmissionwithintheframeworkoftheproject.ItwasalsothefirstcontacttheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversity(SFFB)hashadwithGuinea-Bissau,astheSFFBhasneverpreviouslyrunanyactivitiesorprojectsinthecountryandithasnoSlowFoodmembers.Themissionwassupposedtohavetakenplaceearlierintheyearbuthadtobepostponedduetoseriouspoliticalunrestinthecountry.
TeRMS oF ReFeReNCe
Themissionisaimedat:
-identifyingasmanyorigin-linkedqualityproductsaspossible.-collectinginformationonfoodconsumptionhabitsinthecountry.-collectingrelevantinformationaboutthecommunitieswhoproducetheabove-mentionedproducts.-identifyingpossiblepartnersinthefurtheridentificationoforigin-linkedqualityproducts.
eXeCuTIVe SuMMARYThemissionincludedthefollowingpeople:SerenaMilano,SecretaryoftheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversity;VeliaLucidi,SlowFoodAfricaOffice (deskofficer forGuinea-Bissau); andCristianaPeano, SFFB technical advisor (AgronomyFacultyofTurinUniversity).TheyvisitedvariousfoodcommunitiesinGuinea-Bissautounderstandthecontextoffoodconsumptionandfoodproductionandidentifysometraditionalandlocalproducts.FoodcommunitiesandproducersfromtheregionsofBissau,Oio,Bafatà,TombaliandQuinarawerevisited.
Asaresultofthismission,over15interestingproductshavebeenidentified:
Pam-pamriceMangrovericeRice,milletandmanioccouscousFonioBreadandsweetsPalmoilCashewnutsMancagnabeansLeafyvegetables:manioc,mancara,sweetpotato,baobab,boro-boro,baguitch,candja,JakatouBagiki
LocalcherrytomatoFarimsaltLocalmangovarieties(Fernandino,SierraLeonean,mangodeterra)LimondeterraLemonvinegarChinesebanana,SãoTomébananaWildfruits:foroba,baobabfruit(cabaceira),tamarind,velludo,foli,manganasia,miseria
Wehopetoestablisharegularcollaborationwiththreeorganizationsworkingtoprotectbiodiversityandpromotetheconsumptionoflocalproducts:Tininguena,theCOAJOQcooperativeandLVIA.
PalmoilhasbeenidentifiedasapotentialPresidium.
INTRoDuCToRY INFoRMATIoN oN AGRICulTuRAl BIoDIVeRSITY AND FooD CoNSuMPTIoN
Intermsofclimate,Guineacanbedividedintothreeareas:thecoastalzone(verylargeandalsoincludingtheislands),thenorth(borderingSenegal)andtheeast.Thecoastalzoneistherainiest(receivingover2,500mmayear,concentratedinthreemonths).Thenorthisslightlylesswet(between1,500and1,800mmayear)andtheeast(pre-Saharan)ismorearid(amaximumof800mmofrainarriveseachyear).Thecoastistherichestinbiodiversity.Agriculturally,thenorthisinfluencedbySenegal.TheeastisagropastoralandmostlyinhabitedbytheFula(Peul).Agriculturalproductsarelessvaried.Theprimarycropsarecotton,peanutsandsweetpotatoes.Thelandismainlyflat.Thecommunities’productsaresoldatthelumo,theweeklyvillagemarket.
Thefragileeconomyisbasedmostlyonagricultureandfishing,despitetheexistenceofmineralresources(oil,bauxiteandphosphates).Thesearenotexploitedbecauseofthelackofinfrastructureandfunds.Theeconomywashardhitbythe1998-1999civilwar.Currentlytheeconomyisstagnantandindustryisnonexistent.Imports:beverages,tobacco,oilproducts,cars,rice,manufacturedgoods.Exports:cashewnuts,fish,crustaceans,peanuts,palmseeds,lumber.Guinea-Bissauisessentiallyanagriculturalcountry.Mostfarmingissubsistence,andagriculturaltechnologyisrudimentary.90%ofthepopulationworkinagriculture.
Thebiggestobstaclestopromotingandincreasingtheconsumptionofqualitylocalproductsarethefollowing:
1. limited availability of seeds.Almostno-onesavesandreproducesseedsfromvegetables.SeedsareboughtinDakar(theyarenotevenfoundinBissau)byNGOsandotherorganizations.Moreworkisdoneonsavingandreproducingseedsforgrains,butonlyatthelocalcommunitylevel.ThisfallswithintheremitofINPA(theresearchinstituteoftheMinistryofAgriculture,withfoursites),whichhasthenecessarystructuresandskillsforgermplasmconservation,settingupseedbanksandcertifyingseeds,butlacksresources.Itthereforeconcentratesitsworkexclusivelyonriceandpre-basematerial.2. lack of technical skills among young people. ItseemsthatwithinINPAthereisaproblemofgenerationalturnover.ThereisnoAgricultureFacultyinGuinea.TheagronomistsworkingtodayreceivedscholarshipstostudyinCuba,RussiaorAlgeria,thankstoexchangeprograms,butwiththenewpoliticalsystem,thesehavebeenlost.3. The predominance of cashew nuts.Forseveralmonthseveryyear,allavailablelaborisdedicatedtothecashewharvest,andallotheractivities(horticulture,forexample)aresuspended.4. Marketing problems.Fewactorsareworkinginaneffectivewaytomarketqualitylocalproducts.Problemsincludethelackofinfrastructure,whichhindersanyinitiative,andthefactthatitisdifficulttomakeanimpressionontherichandthetinymiddleclass(presentonlyinthecapital).Localproductsareactuallyperceivedaspoor,andconsumerswithpurchasingpowertendtofavorimports.5. The state of the roads.Thesearemostlyunpavedandfullofholes.Peopletravelonfootorbybicycle.Therearenomeansoftransportorinfrastructureforthemtoeasilyreachmarketsandthecapital.6. lack of structures for proper conservationoffreshproducts(storeroomsforvegetables,coldstorageforfish,etc.)andtheirprocessing(intojuices,jams,driedfruit,etc.),withtheexceptionofdriedgreenmangoandafewwild-fruitjuices,whichrarelyenduponthemarket.
PRoDuCTS INVeSTIGATeD DuRING THe MISSIoN
RiceAnnualpercapitariceconsumptioninGuinea-Bissauisamongthehighestintheworld.Untilthestartofthe1960s,Guinea-Bissauwasarice-exportingcountry.Currentlyithasadeficitofbetween80,000and90,000tonsandimportsAsianrice,whichhasreplacedlocalriceevenamongpeople’sfoodpreferences.MorethanhalfofalldomesticriceisgrownintheTombalìregionandcoversaround22,000hectares.Productivityistwoandhalftonsperhectare.Though106,000hectarescouldbeusedforricegrowing,lessthanhalfareactuallycultivated.Itishardtoidentifythetraditionalvarieties:Thefarmersgivethericethenameofthepersonwhobroughttheseeds,thenameofavillage,andsoon.Identifyingsynonymsisalsocomplicated,aseveryethnicgrouphasitsownlanguageandeveryvillageusesdifferentnames.
Therearethreetypesofricegrowing:1. Pam-pamorhighlandrice:Anitinerantfarmingmethod:everyyearpartoftheforestisburnedandthericeisgrown“dry.”Pam-pamriceistheleastproductive,withyieldsrarelyexceedingonetonperhectare.“Panpan”ricegrowingisasubsistencefarmingmethodthatexploitstheforestundergrowthorthelandusedforpalmplantations.Beforesowing,thelandisclearedbyburningthescrub,takingcarenottodamagetheplants.“Panpan”ricegrowingimpoverishestheland,whichmustbedugover,hoedandfertilizedafterthefirstharvest.Whenthelandisnotworked,itnolongerproducesriceandthefarmersareforcedtoclearmoreland,becausericeisthestapleoftheirdietandtheycannotdowithoutit.2. Bas-fondsorfreshwaterrice:Grownintheclassicfloodedpaddies.OnevarietyisBani-Malo,andproductionyieldsvaryfromonetotwotonsperhectare.Thefieldwherethericeisgrowniscalled“lala.”3. Mangroveorsaltwaterrice:Inthemangroveswampssoilsaregenerallymorefertilethaninotherenvironmentsasthetidalfloodingregularlydepositssiltontheland.Successfulcultivationofriceinthemangroveswampsdependsonthelengthofthesalt-freeperiod,whichistheresultoftheinterplayofthevolumeoffreshwateravailableandtheintrusionofsaltwaterfromthesea.Mangrovericeisbyfarthemostproductive,abletoexceedthreetonsperhectare.OnevarietygrownthiswayisKablak.
Mangrovericegrowingiswidespread.Someoftheharvestissavedforfamilyuse,whiletherestissold.Thistechniqueofcultivationinsaltywater(mangroverice,arrozdubulanhas)isthemostinterestingandiscloselylinkedtoGuinea’sunusualgeography(withlongsaltwaterinletsthatresemblerivers)andthecultureoftheBalanta,Guinea-Bissau’smainethnicgroup.Initiallypresentonlyinthenorth,theBalantamovedsouthintheearly20thcentury,intoanareainhabitedbytwootherethnicgroups(NalusandSusuorTanda,presentmostlyinthenorthwestofGuinea-Conakry)whoonlygrowdryriceusingthepam-pammethod(cutandburn).TheBalantataughtthetechniqueofgrowingriceinsaltywatertothesegroups.
Specificvarietiesaregrowninthemangroves,differentfromthosegrowndry.ThemostcommonisKablac.Thisisanimprovedvarietybasedonalocalvariety(foundinGuinea-Conakryandbroughtbyaproducer,Bracia,totheislandofKamitongo).Kablacwasthenselected,creatingthepurelinesthatareusedtodayasthepre-basematerialforsowing,whichspreadaroundthecommunities30yearsago.Theproducersalsogivethenamesofothervarietiesofmangroverice:Jambarà,Sengeren,Cablack,N’contoPreto,N’contoBranco,YacaSaw,Yaca(white)orYacaoBab,Aninha,Atanhan,Torompass,Tsome,BerendukandN’doloKpok.Traditionallyriceisprocessedmanuallyinamortar(arrozdepilón).Nowthericeisbroughttoamillandhulledtwice.Thewastefromthesecondhullingisfinerandusedtofeedlivestock(cows,goats,pigs).InGuinea-Bissau,communitiestraditionallymakeparboiledrice.
other grainsThesearemostlyconsumedaspartoftheeverydaydietwhilewaitingforthericeharvest.
MilletMilhoBasil(darkred,whiteormixedcolor)andmilhospada(brown).
Wesawarice,milletandmanioccouscousonthemarket.
FonioMilhofundo.GrownprimarilyneartheSenegaleseborder.
SorghumCalledMilhoPreto
CornMilhocavalo
Palm oilTherearetwotypesofpalmoil:
1. -dagranjapalm(grownfromimportedseeds)2. -wildpalm,whichgivesabetter,morerefinedoil
WildoilpalmforestsarefoundthroughoutGuinea-Bissau,withtheexceptionofthemorearideasternarea(plantedmostlywithcottonandpeanutsandusedforlivestockfarming,Fula/Peularea).AccordingtoexpertsfromtheTininguenaorganization,therearetwoareashistoricallylinkedtopalms,inthenorth(wheretheManjacaethnicgrouplives)andinthesouth,inCantanhes.Forvariousreasons,includingsymbolism,historyandcustom,thesouthernareaisparticularlysuitedtopalmgrowing.Mencutthefruitbunchesfromthepalms,thewomencarrythemhomeandthemenbeatthemtogetthefruit(orangedrupesthesizeofagrapeberryandshapedlikeanirregularoval).Therestoftheprocessingisthendonebythewomen.Thefruitsareboiledandpressedtoobtaintheoil,whichisthenboiled.TheassociationoverseenbyTininguenaisoneofthefewthatfiltersthepalmoil,bottlesitinlabeledglassbottles(toorder)andpasteurizesboththeemptybottlesandthefinishedoil(to70°C).Ontheislands,thetechniqueisdifferentanddoesnotinvolveboilingthefruits.Insteadtheyarearrangedinaholeinthegroundandcoveredwithsoil.TheislandoilismoreacidicandisprimarilysoldinSenegalforsoapproduction.Oilisalsoproducedfromtheseeds(“sitidicarruz”)intwodifferentways.Withthefirstmethod,thefruitisbrokenopenandtheundevelopedseedisextracted.Itisdried,hulledandgroundintoflour.Waterisbroughttotheboil,removedfromthefireandtheflourisadded.Themixtureisstirred,moreboilingwaterisadded,anditisstirredagain.Themixtureisthenlefttorestandtheclearyellowoilthatseparatesfromthewateriscollected.Thislengthyprocedureisonlycarriedoutdomestically(everyfamilyproducesatmosttwolitersofoil).Thesecondtechniqueinvolvestoastingtheseedsuntiloilisobtained.Thepalmwaste(emptyfruitbunches)andthepressedfruits(whichstillcontainsomeoil)areusedtomakesoap.
Cashew nutsIntroducedbythePortugueseinthe1960s,thecropreacheditsmaximumexpansioninthemid-1980s,influencingthecountry’sentireagriculturaleconomy.Initiallythetreeswereplantedonlargeestates,thenwhenpeoplerealizeditwasaprofitablecrop,small-scalefarmersbegantogrowcashewsaswell.Thenutsrequirelittleworkandproducehighearnings.Thecommerciallyvaluablepartistheseed(dried),butthefruitisalsoconsumedfreshorprocessedintoacompote,juiceorwine.Acooperativeinthenorthismakingasparklingcashewwine.Theby-productfromjuiceproductioncanbedriedandfedtolivestock.Alltheproductsmadefromthefruithaveastrongsmellandanastringenttasteandareonlyconsumedincountriesthatcultivatecashews.Cashewwineisproducedexclusivelyatanartisanal,familylevel.Cashewjuicefermentsinafewhours,becomingveryalcoholic.Domesticproductionofthiswinehasaggravatedtheproblemofalcoholism,commonalsoamongyoungpeople.Thepriceofcashewsinfluencesthepriceofricethroughaperversemechanism,linkedtothecultureofbartering(barteringcontinuestobeatthebaseoftheeconomyinvariousvillages).Sometimesthefamiliesthatsellcashewstointermediariesneedriceforsubsistenceandarepaidinanequalnumberofsacksofrice.Sometimesthericecanendupcostingmorethanthecashews.ThemajorityofthecashewsareexportedtoIndia.ShipsleaveforIndialoadedwithcashewsandreturnwithAsianrice(particularlyfromThailand).
BeansThemostcommonlocalvarietyisMancagna,asmallwhitecowpea(niebé).AtraditionaldishbasedonMancagnabeansiscansuca(softenedrice,beans,pork,palmoil).Thebeansareeatenbothgreenanddried,butmostlydried.WealsoheardaboutManjakubeansVELIA(agreenbean),CongobeansandSevenWeekbeans(verysmallandpalebrown).
Vegetables
NB:Accordingtotheinformationcollectedduringthemission,vegetableseedsarerarelystoredandreproduced,andonlyeverforsome
vegetablesdestinedonlyforfamilyconsumption.
Bagiki Thelocalnameforhibiscus,whoseflowers,richinvitaminC,areusedtomadejuice.InGuinea-Bissau,itisalsosaidtocurediabetes.Withitslemonyflavor,bagikihastraditionallybeenusedasacondiment.
JakatouAsmalleggplantknownas“gardenegg,”richinvitaminsA,CandD.InGuinea-Bissau,itissaidtocuremalaria.
CandjaOkra,avegetablerichinvitaminsA,CandD.
Cherry tomato (tomate da terra)Thelocalcherrytomatoiscultivatedandconsumedatafamilylevel.Acommunityof“tomatedeterra”producerswereidentifiedintheBafataregion.Theywillbevisitedduringthenextmissionorbyoneofourlocalcollaborators.
Chili pepperTiny,redandveryhot.
Seedsareboughtforallothervegetables(onions,garlic,lettuce).
leafy vegetablesTheleavesofmanioc,mancarra,sweetpotato,baobab,boro-boro,baguitch,candjaanddjagatuarealleaten.
Fruit
MangoAccordingtotheinformationcollectedduringthemission,thethreetraditionalvarietiesareFernandinomango(smallasanapple,pale-yellowskin,ripensinAprilandMay);SierraLeoneanmango(large,brick-redskin,ripensinMayandJune);mangodeterra(thesmallest,tennis-ballsized,pale-yellowskin,ripensinJuneandJuly).Onlygreenmangoesaredried,nevertheripefruit.Mangoisfoundinvarioustraditionaldishes:boiledricewithgreenmangoservedwithdifferentsaucesorboiledricewithamango-basedsauce.Inthesetworecipes,themangocanbeeitherfreshordried(checkincookbook).Sweetmangosarealsoeatencaramelized.
lemonsOnetraditionalvarietyoflemonisverycommon,particularlyalongthecoast:theverysmallandfragrant“limondeterra.”Therearealsomanyintroducedvarieties,whichhavetakenthenameoftheirplaceoforiginorthepersonwhobroughtthem,liketheFrenchlemonandCorsicanlemon.“Aguadelimon”(alemonvinegarmadebyfermentingthelimondeterrajuiceovernightwhichcankeepforuptofiveyears)andlemonjuice(basedonjuiceandsugar)arebothproduced.Commonlyfoundinthekitchen,thelemonplaysthesameroleasvinegarinEuropeancuisine,andisusedtomarinatemeatandfishandtomakeaccompanyingsauces(generallybasedonlemon,rawonionandchilipepper).
Carob (“alfarroba”)Awildtreethatproducesbunchesofverylongpods(upto40cm).Whendried,theyturndarkbrownincolor.Theinsideofthepod,paleyellow,sweetandfloury,canbepressedintojuice(usuallymixedwithotherjuices,particularlybaobab,lemonandvelludo).Somecommunitiesusecarobjuiceandleavesasatraditionalcureformalaria.Soapismadebymixingashfromthebarkwithpalmoil(sabonpreto).Thedriedseeds(netetù)canbegroundandprocessedintoflour(“futi”)orintoapuree(“kunga”)whichcanbeusedasaseasoningforriceandmeat.
BaobabBaobabfruitsareusedtomakejuices.Theyarealsoprocessedintoflour(usedamongotherthingsforweaningchildren).Theseedscanbetoasted,andturnedintoflourandthenapastesimilartopeanutpaste,whichcanbeaddedtoriceorsweetened.
VelludoAwildtree,notverylarge(likethecashew)withsmall,blackpodsenclosingirregularlyshapedredseeds.Thedriedseedscanbepressedintoabrownjuicewithanastringentflavor.Thetreecanalsobecultivated.
Foli Thefruitofawildtree.Therearetwotypes:folilifan(oval,largeasatennisballandwithorangepulp)andfolibajuda(smaller,withwhitepulpandmoreacidic).Symbolicallythefirstisconsideredafemalefruitandthesecondamalefruit.Itisprocessedintojuicebybeatingthepulpwithaspoonandaddingsaltorsugar.Ifthejuiceiflefttofermentitbecomes“vinaigredefoli.”
ManganasiaAwildplantthatproducesredberries(drupes).Childreneattheflesh.Theseedsmustbesoakedinwaterforsixdaystoremovethehydrogencyanide.Theyarethenhulledandprocessedintoaflourusedtoseasonrice,oreatenfresh.
MiseriaThefruitofawildtree.Thewoodiscommonlyusedtobuildhouses,whilethejuiceofthefruitcanalsobeusedtomakevinegarorwine.Thefruitisredandyellow,ovalinshapeandthesizeofawalnut.Thefreshfruitcanalsobeeaten.Itisasacidicasalemon.
Farim saltThelandscapearoundFarimischaracterizedbywideexpansesofsandandsaltwater.Whenthewaterfromtheriver(actuallyamarineinlet)recedesatlowtideandthewindblowsfromtheeast,acrustofsaltformsonthesurfaceoftheground.Around120women,membersoftheAprosalassociation(foundedin1994),collectthissalt,placeitinacloth,pouroversaltwatertowashitandthenfilterit.Theythendryitinrectangularpansoverafire,producingaround120tonsofsaltayear.Thecommunityofwomenwemeetbelongtofourethnicgroups:Mandinga,Balanta,FulaandMancagna(thefirstthreeareMuslim,thelastChristian).TheyreceivedtheequipmentnecessarytomakeiodizedsaltthroughaUNICEF-fundedproject.Butthecostishigherandtheycannolongermanagetosellit.Duringtherainyseason,fromJanuarytoMay,thewomengrowvegetables(onions,chilipeppers,tomatoes,carrots,lettuce,Savoycabbage).TheybuytheseedsinBissau.
VISITS
FAo office in Bissau
InBissau,wemetwithM.ThierryAngeEllaOndo,theFAOrepresentative.WeexplainedtohimthemissionoftheSlowFoodmovementandtheobjectivesofourmissioninGuinea-Bissau.
Tininguena officeTheGuineanorganization,Tiniguena–EstaTerraéNossa(thislandisours)hasbeenworkingwithruralandurbancommunitiesforovertenyearstostrengthenpeople’seffortstoconserveenvironmentalresourcesandtocontroltheiruseforthebenefitofthosewholivethere.Thisassistanceincludestechnicaladvice;creditforcommunity-buildingprojectsforschools,healthcentersandseedstorageandsupportforwomen’sassociations.Italsoinvolvesassistanceindocumentingfishingpracticesandacquiringlandtitlestoprotectindigenousresidentsfromexpropriations.Theyalsoorganizeawareness-raisingcampaignsonbiodiversityissues.
Wetalktothedirector(AugustaHenriques)andatechnicalexpert(MigueldeBarros).Thedirectorisveryforceful,stronglycriticizinginternationalorganizationsliketheWFP,whichdistributesAmericanproducts;FAO,whichdistributeshybrid,sometimesinfertileseeds;NGOsthatleaveprojectshalf-finished;andsoon.Shestatestheneedforindigenoussolutionstoindigenousproblems.Itwouldbeinterestingtohavesupportforparticipatorycertificationandforthepromotionoflocalproductsproducedbysomeofthecommunitiestheyareoverseeing(palmoil,lemonvinegar,rice,etc.).
Wetlands officeWetlandsInternationalisaglobalorganizationworkingtosustainandrestorewetlandsandtheirresourcesforpeopleandbiodiversity.Basedmostlyinthedevelopingworld,theyhave20regional,nationalorprojectoffices,inallcontinents,andaheadofficeinEde,theNetherlands.InGuinea-Bissau,theyworkwithBalantacommunitieswhoproducemangrovericeintwoareas:Mansoa(animportantsitebecauseitishometoaverybeautifulandendangeredbird,thegrocruado,oneofthesymbolsofthecountry’sbiodiversity)andCassini,inthesouth,neartheborderwithGuinea-Conakry.Wetlandsraisesawarenessandtrainslocalcommunitiesinmanagingnaturalresourceswiththeaimofpreservingandprotectingthem.
IBAP (Istituto da Biodiversidade a das Areas Protegidas)IBAPisapublicgovernmentinstitute,setupin2004,whichworkstomanageprotectedareas,defendingtheirfloraandfaunaandthefoodsecurityofthepeoplewholiveinthem.
Therearesixprotectedarea:1. ParqueNacionalMarinhoJoãoVieraPoilão2. ParqueNaturaldosTarrafesdoRioCacheu3. ParqueNaturaldasLagoasdeCufada4. FlorestadeCantanhez5. ParqueNaturaldasIlhasdeOrango6. AreaMarinhaProtegida(UROK)
National Study and Research Institute (INeP) WemetwithDanielRodriguesandexplainedthemissionoftheSlowFoodmovementandtheobjectivesofourmissioninGuinea-Bissau.Mr.RodriguesgaveusageneraloverviewofagricultureinGuinea-Bissau.
Mansoa natural pharmacy(withSuorAngela)Thisrecentlyopenedpharmacysellssyrups,ointments,driedherbsandcreamsmadefromlocalmedicinalplants.Villagemenareemployedtopickandpreparetheherbs.
Farim salt producers and Farim fishermen (withPadreCarlo)SeeFarimsaltabove.
Mangrove rice producers (with lVIA)TheCubumbaassociationofunitedchildrenandfriends(AFAOUC),setupin1998,bringstogether34menand9womenandischairedbyawoman.Aswellasrice,theygrowvegetablesandsweetpotatoes.
Djaliconda – KAFo officeFarmers’associationwithaseedbank.
CoAJoQ cooperativeAgriculturalcooperativeofyoungpeopleinCanciungo(north).Theirobjectivesarefoodself-sufficiencyanddietdiversification.Fouragronomists,trainedinCuba,workwith35localassociationsandproducevariousprocessedproducts:palmoil,lemonvinegar,mangocompoteandcashewproducts.Thesearesolddirectlyfromtheirstructure.Theyalsohaveacommunityradiostation.
Fanhe village schools(withPadreCossa)Dugalsection,Nhacrasector,OioregionThenurseryandprimaryschoolsareattendedbychildrenfromFanheandothernearbyvillages.Theyhavebeautifulvegetablegardens,cultivatedbetweenOctoberandMarch.TheseedsinitiallyarrivedfromItaly,butnowtheyareboughtinDakar.
CoNCluSIoNS AND ReCoMMeNDATIoNS
Themissiongaveus theopportunity to identifyanumberof interestingproductsandcontacts.Thiswillallowus toproceedwith themappingoflocalqualityproducts.
WewereparticularlyimpressedbythedeterminationandmotivationoforganizationslikeTininguenaandCOAJOQ,withwhomwehopetobuildfruitfulcollaborations.
PalmoilfromGuinea-BissauisconsideredtobeamongthebestinWestAfrica.WeintendtoinvestigatetheproductfurtherandorganizetastingsinordertoconsideritasapossiblePresidium.Tininguenatrainsandsupportssomeinterestingcommunitiesofproducers,whichwouldfacilitatetheimplementationofthenextphasesofapalm-oilproject.
“Promoting origin-linked Quality Products in Four Countries(Guinea-Bissau, Mali, Senegal and Sierra leone)”
MaliReport on the first mission to identify local quality products and their producers (see item b. in
Description of the Activities, Terms of Agreement/Project Document).
Mission from July 23 to August 1, 2010
MISSIoN BACKGRouND
Thiswasthefirstmissionwithintheframeworkof theproject.TheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversityhasbeenworkingwith foodcommunitiesinMalisince2008.Malihasarichgastronomiccultureandagreatvarietyofethnicgroupsandecosystems.This,aswellastheremarkabledynamismofruralcommunitiesandcivilsociety,wasoneofthemissionsuccessfactors.
Malicanbedividedintothreemainclimatezones:thedeserticnorth,thesemi-deserticregionbelowtheNigerRiver,andthegreenerandmorehorticulturalsouth(Sikassoregion,fruitandvegetables,cotton).
Malihasremarkableagriculturalpotential,thankstothesoil,rainfallandirrigation,particularlyinthe“OfficeduNiger”area,locatedalongtheNigerRiverandcoveringtheregionsofKoulikoro,SikassoandSégou.
Horticulturalexportshaveriseninrecentyears,despitethecountry’sgeographiclocation.MalianmangoeshaveappearedontheEuropeanmarket,whileshallotsandpotatoesareexportedtonearbycountries.Agriculturaldiversificationisalsohavinganeffectonlocalmarkets.Maliproduceslocalwheat,whichisalsoprocesseddomestically.TheaimistoreplacecostlyimportsfromEurope.
Around ten large companies dominate Mali’s food industry (cotton, mineral water, beer, flour).Various small companies are active inprocessingcottonseedandgrains (millet, sorghum, fonio, rice).Despite theirdynamism, thesesmaller companies suffer froma lackofgovernmentsupportandprivateinvestment.
Farmers’organizationsinMaliarenumerousandactiveatbothapoliticalandanoperationallevel(CNOP,OP,COPAGEN,Sexagon,AfriqueVerte,AOPP,COFERSA),asareotherorganizationsandresearchinstitutesconnectedtotheagriculturalsector(IRPAD,IER).Thereisaconcreteandverydynamiccommitmenttoencouragingbiodiversity.Someorganizationsworktosupportproducers,creatingvillageseedbankstohelpsaveMali’sgeneticbiodiversity,whileothersworkontheprocessingandmarketingoflocalproducts.LocalproductsandMalianbrandslike“LePaysan”canbefoundonsupermarketshelvesinBamako.Shopperscanfindlocalgrainslikerice,pre-cookedfonio,sorghumandmillet,andfloursofvariouskinds(corn,millet,cowpea),ricecouscousandsomevariationsoflocalproducts(like“rizaufinesherbs,”etc.).Inadditiontolocalproduceandprocessedfoods,shopperscanalsofindmanyherbsandspicesandlocalbrandsofsyrups(ginger,tamarind,hibiscus)andjams(hibiscus,mango).ThereisanurbanmiddleclassthatshopsatsupermarketsandbuyslocalproductsaswellasEuropeanones.
TeRMS oF ReFeReNCe
Thismissionisaimedat:
•identifyingthehighestpossiblenumberoforigin-linkedqualityproductsintheregionsofBamako,Segou,MoptiandthePlateauDogon.
•collectingrelevantinformationonthecommunitieswhoproducetheabove-mentionedproducts.
•identifyingpossiblepartnersforthefurtheridentificationoforigin-linkedqualityproductsandPresidium.
eXeCuTIVe SuMMARY
ThefirstmissiontoMaliwasmadeinthelastweekofJulybyVeliaLucidi,inchargeofSlowFood’sactivitiesinMali,andCristianaPeano,theprojecttechnicaladvisorandaprofessorofagronomyattheUniversityofTurin.DuringtheirstayinMali,theymetwithvariousfarmers’andproducers’organizations.ThedelegationspentseveraldaysinBamakoandmetwithrepresentativesfromIER1,IRPAD2,FAO,CIRAD3andCOFERSA4,theChefoftheTuaregcommunityofToumbouctouandCNOP5.ThedelegationthentraveledtowardsSégou,wheretheymetthedirectorofSexagon6.ThelastvisitwastoTimissa,towardsDjenne,wherethedelegationvisitedthecommunitywheretheSinignesigiTon7organizationworks,andtoDogonCountry,wheretheymetwithP.D.Co.8producers.Around20interestingfoodswereidentified,primarilydairyproducts,locallivestockbreedsandlocalgrains.ThemostinterestingproductsfromaculturalandgastronomicperspectivearealocalwheatvarietycultivatedintheTombouctouregion;somevarietiesofwildgrainsalsofromthenorthernregions,likekramkramandwildfonio;theTuaregcommunity’sdairyproductsandfinallytheMacinasheep,abreedatriskofextinctionusedforwool,meatandmilk.Thisinvestigativeeffortwillbecontinuedinthelatterpartoftheyear.PossiblefuturecollaborationswereidentifiedwithIRPAD,COFERSA,AOPP9,CIRAD,IERandFAO.
DeSCRIPTIoN oF MeeTINGS
CoFeRSA (Convergence des Femmes Rurales pour la Diversité Alimentaire) – Alimata Traoré
TheBENKADICooperative(acoreor“village”cooperativeinSikasso)has17members.Cooperativemembersincludebothproducersandprocessors(whomakedriedmango,fonio,chilipepper,soap,sheabutter,etc.).Thereare13memberswithinCOFERSA.Thestructureisasfollows:corecooperative,atavillagelevel–RegionalUnion–NationalUnion(COFERSA).Theirobjectiveisassistingthecommunityeffortsofmarketing.Theywouldliketocreateashopineverylocality,toselltheirproductsandrespondtotheneedsofthemostdisadvantagedzones,likethoseinthenorth.
IRPAD – Institut de Recherche et de Promotion des Alternatives en DéveloppementWemetwithMoussàMalle(fromthe“ProgrammedeConstructiondeCompétencepourleDevelopmentLocal”–PCDL),AssetouSamaké(secretary-generalandprofessorofgeneticsattheUniversityofBamako)andMamadouGoita10(executivedirector).
IRPADworksontwolevels:foodsecurityandeducation.Intermsoffoodsecurity,IRPADworkstopromotelocalproducts,particularlygrains(incollaborationwithIER).ItalsoworkswithlocalradiostationstoinformfarmersaboutissueslinkedtotheuseofGMOsandhybrids.Theyalsoworktomakelegaldocumentsavailableinlocallanguages(forexamplethoserelatingtolandownership)andproducerecordingsforcommunityradiostations.TheyworkwiththeAgriculturalUniversity.
1Institutd’EconomieRuraleduMali2InstitutdeRechercheetdePromotiondesAlternativesenDéveloppement3CiradisaFrenchresearchcentreworkingwithdevelopingcountriestotackleinternationalagriculturalanddevelopmentissues4ConvergencedesFemmesRuralespourlaSouvenainetéAlimentaireauMali6SyndicatdesExploitantsAgricolesdel’OfficeduNiger
MainIRPADprograms:1. FoodSovereignty2. CFCA(CentredeFormationpourCadresAfricains)3. CRPA(CentredeRechercheetdePromotiondesActivitésAgro-Sylvo-Pastorales)4. PCDL(ProgrammedeConstructiondesCompétencespourleDevelopmentLocal)
Theyemphasizethatinpromotinglocalproducts,itisnecessarytobeawareofthedangerofattractingtheattentionofcompanieswhowanttopatentseeds.Theyexplainedthatwhentraditionalproductsenterthemarket,theymustbeabletomaintaintheidentityofthelocalcommunities.Productionislimitedanditisnecessarytoproduceinadiversifiedwaytomaintainthisequilibrium.Productionislinkedtotime,space,cultureandpeople.InMali,explainedAssetou,whenaproductitisvaluable,itisproducedinlargequantities,overexploitingtheland.
Meeting with Mohammed el Mehdi Ag Attaher elansari (Tuareg community, representative)TheTuareg(ormorecorrectlyKelTamasheq,“thosewhospeakTamasheq”)areanAfricanBerberpeoplewholivenomadicallyorsemi-nomadicallyintheSaharadesert.InMali,thiscommunityisconcentratedintheregionsofTombouctou,GaoandKidal.Theymostlyraiselivestockandcollectwildgrainslikekramkramandwildfonio,thoughtheyalsocultivatealocalwheatvariety(alkama)and“dufleuve”rice.Theirtraditionaldietisbasedonmeat,butterandgrains.Milk(akh)playsanessentialroleamongtheTuaregpastoralists,becauseit“nourishes,refreshesandcures.”Alsoofgreatimportanceintheirgastronomicculturearedairyproducts likemeltedbutter (widi)andtikommartcheese,madefromsheep’smilkandrennettakendirectlyfromakidgoat’sintestineandlefttodryinthesun.Thischeeseisprimarilyusedasaseasoning.
Somelocalfoodsandbeverages:Achider:abeveragemadefromhulledkramkram(flour),water,sugarorhoneyandhulledtikommart.Takruite(“ball”inTamasheq):hulledkramkram,hulledtikommart,drieddatesandsomewater.Anotherversionismadewithdriedmeat.Traditionallytheseballsweredistributedtothecommunitywhenachildbeganteethingasagestureofprotection.Alabadia:rice,meat,butterandalittlesalt.
LocalgrainsintheTamashekculture:Sorghum,locallycalledsabba,isaseasonalgraingrownalmosteverywhereinMali(Mopti,Sikasso,Ségou,Kayes).InTombouctou,itiscultivatedintheareaaroundLakeFaguibine.Differentpreparationsforsorghumincludeinasingledish(tabalatast,sokoidjelene,gasso),asahotbeverageandasgruel.
Riverrice(emananeinthelocallanguage)iscultivatedinareaswithclayeysoilbysedentaryfarmers,inswampsorriverinlets.“Rizdufleuve,”commonlyknownas“rizflottant”(floatingrice)isthemostprizedbytheTuareg.Itisconsideredalmostaluxuryproduct,becauseofitsrarity,fragranceanduniqueflavor.AnotherricevarietyappreciatedbytheTuaregisknownas“rizdesoiseaux”(riceofthebirds).Preparations:1–singledish:alabadja,goundeyorwithvarioussauces2–hotbeveragesandgruels3–pies(“galettes”):alfintta
Wheat(alkama)iscultivatedbysedentaryfarmersinthepodsaroundtheNigerRiver,intheTombouctouregion.Itisverymuchappreciatedbythenomadandsedentarylocalpopulation.Preparations:varioustypesofbread:tacoula,toucassou,alfitatisingledishes:tabalatast,duidjelen,katta(vermicelli)gruels:serye,aliwafintakawit:usedlikeanappetiser
Kramkram,ordunegrass(Cenchrusbiflorus),is(was)theprimarygrainofthesouthernSahara.InthepastitwasthedominantcropintheSahelandinregionsbetweentheSaharadesertandtheSahel.Itgrowsverywellinsandysoilandneedslittlewater.Inthepastitwasmoreimportantthanmillet(pearlmillet)anditsgrainsweregroundintoflour,commonlyusedtoprepareakindofporridge.Kramkramgrainisrichinproteinandhasperhapsthehighestcaloriecontentofanyothergrain.Todaythisgrainisonlycollectedwhentheharvestsofothergrainsarenotsufficienttofeedthecommunity.7The“SinignesigiTon”organization,whosenamemeans“wepredictthefuture”inBambara,bringstogetherproducersin27villagesintheTimissamunicipality,intheSégouregion,topromotemanyactivities,relatingtoliteracyforwomenandyoungpeople,motherandchildhealth,theproductionofseedsandtheprocessing,marketingandsustainablemanagementofnaturalresources.8PromotionpourleDéveloppementCommunautairedeBandiagara9AssociationdesOrganisationsProfessionnellesPaysannesMali10MamadouGOÏTAisadevelopmentsocio-economistandaspecialistineducationandtrainingsystemsfromMali(WestAfrica).HeiscurrentlytheExecutiveDirectoroftheInstituteforResearchandthePromotionofAlternativesinDevelopment(IRPAD),Bamako,Mali.Heisamemberoftheregionalcoordinatinggroupofthe“CoalitionpourlaProtectionduPatrimoineGénétiqueAfricain”(COPAGEN)(Coali-tiontoProtectAfricanGeneticHeritage),whichoperatesinWestAfrica.
Theplant’sflawisthatitsgrainisenclosedinaspinycoveringthatgetsstucktoanimalfurandpeople’sclothes,butthishasneverbeenperceivednegativelybytheTuareg,whosedietisstillcloselyconnectedtotheconsumptionofthisgrain.Whenthefruits(takanà)ripeninDecember,thegrains(wasaille)fallonthesand.Theysticktogether,androllintoballsastheyarepushedbythewind,whichthewomencollectwithstraworbysweepingthemupwithrakesmadefromacaciawood.Theyarethenhulledinamortar,removingthewhitegrainfromitsspinycovering.Duringtherainyseason,theplantcanbecutmorethanonceandusedforhaywhenitisspineless,orpreservedintraditionalsilos.Inthiscasethepresenceofspinesdoesnotcreateproblemsbecausefermentationsoftensthemandtheycanthenbedigestedbyanimals.Themainreasonforthedeclineofthisgrainisthesignificantreductioninsuitableland.ThisfactorisalsopartlylinkedtotheTuareg’stransitionfromnomadictosemi-nomadic(andalmostsedentary)life.Sedentarylifeencourageslocalizedgrazing,whichdoesnotallowtheplanttoproducegrains.Anotherfactorcanbecorrelatedtothedecreaseinimportanceandstrengthofthetraditionalauthorities,whowereonceverymindfulofthiswildgrain.
Afasou:Ahardergrassthankramkram, itgrowsonthedunes,particularly inthedesert,andisusedmostlyasfeedforhorsesandtoconstructsupportsfortentsandgranaries.Duringtimesoffamineitisalsoeatenbythecommunity.
Wildfonio (Panicumlaetum):Harvestedbythecommunityforlocalconsumptionandalsotofeedanimals.Itsgrainsarehulledandcookedintoakindofporridge.Anannualplant,itgrowsinclayeysoilsubjecttoseasonalflooding.
Thereisalsoavarietyoflocalwheat(cultivatedinthenorthintheGoundamandDirearea,intheTombouctouregion),whichisalsocookedintoakindofpolentaandeatenwithmeatandmeltedbutter.
Millet(saba)andsorghum(enele)arealsocultivated.
CeMAPI (Centre Malien de la Propriété Industrielle) – M. Mamadou Cheickné (director)
Thecenterisworkingtohavethefollowing“Malian”productsgivenadenominationoforigin:
− Katigreenbeans− Iafulimangoes(Kentvariety)− Gumarabic− Sikassopeas− Katipotatoes
ThedirectorisinterestedinSlowFoodandwouldliketobeinvolved.Hetoldusaboutseveralinterestingdishesfromwhenhewasachild.Dishbasedoncottonseed:Thecottonfruitwassplitopenandoilwasextracted,someofwhichwasusedtomakesoapandsomeusedtomakeasaucewithonions.Nhenhenkì:Dishbasedonmillet,preparedwithpeanutsauceandtomatoes.Degé:Asemi-alcoholicbeveragebasedonmillet.Fakoi:TheSoreilleethnicgrouppreparesthisleafinasauceandservesitwithrice.AtypicaldishfromtheTombouctouregion.Doloh:Localbeermadefromsorghumandmillet.
CIRAD – Christian CorniauxChristianCorniaux(responsiblefordairyatCIRAD)cangiveusothercontactsforthecountryprofile(evolutionoftheconsumptionofmilkanddairyproductsandlocalproducts).InMali,artisanalbusinessesthatcollectandprocessmilkhaveincreasedconsiderablysincethe1990s.Thankstonumerousdevelopmentprojects,thesebusinesseshaveservedastoolstodynamizetheproductionandsupplychainoflocallyproducedmilkandtofightruralpoverty.MilkproductionwastraditionallytheareaofexpertiseofthePeul,locatedontheedgesofcitiesormovingseasonallybetweenthem.Thesefarmerssellfreshmilk,curdledmilkandbutter.ThetraditionalPeuldairysectorisbasedonaveryhierarchicaldomesticorganizationandonpartnershipsbetweenfarmersandPeulpastoralists,forexamplemilkdeliverycontractsorcontractsfortheuseofleftovermilk.Under the influenceof thenewcommercialprospectsofferedbydairiesandbecauseof increasingpressureon land, these traditionalagreementsarebeingreexamined.Atthesametime,thediversificationofagriculturalsystemshasledtotheappearanceofnewfarmerswhousenewtypesofcontractforthesupplyofinputsandforkeepingandsellingmilk.Atthislevel,thevariousprojectsforsmalldairiesandmilkcollectingcentershaveproventobeessentialinestablishingcommercialrules.Centershavebeendevelopedformilkcollection,suppliedwithtanksandtheequipmentnecessaryfortransportingmilk.ThecollectionandprocessingunitsareinthecitiesofBamako,Kayes,Sikasso,Ségou,Mopti,Tombouctou,GaoandKidal(forcamel’smilk).TheKasséladairy,50kmfromBamakoontheroadtoSégou,hashadgreatsuccessbothcommerciallyaswellasintermsofhygieneandquality.Inanareawithhighproductionpotential,thisfarmers’cooperativehasformeditselfintoanassociationsothatitcansellitsmilkandhavethecommunitiesbenefitdirectlyfromtheresourcescomingfromthemilk.Withthehelpofproperequipment,farmerscanstoretheeveningmilkuntilthenextmorningandsellitonthemarketforthesamepriceasthatmorning’smilk.Thecooperativecollects1,600litersaday.
ThemilkisthendistributedeverymorningtovariouskiosksinBamako,whereKassélamilkhasaverygoodreputation.Morelocalresponseshavealsocomefromtwoindustrialcompanies,YoplaitandMaliLait,whocollectlocalmilktomake“fromageblancs”andyogurt.Sirimé(meltedbutter,atypicalPeulproduct)isatraditionalproductthathasfounditswayontotheurbanmarket(supermarkets,boutiqueshops,etc.)asaqualityproduct.InBamako,asmalldairyhasspecializedinthisproduct,whichisgenerallysoldat250CFAfrancsperliter.Dairyproducts,likemozzarellaorotherpizzacheese,areimportedfromBrazil.Othertraditionalmilk-basedproducts:Deghé: milletporridge,preparedwithfreshorcurdledmilkorenrichedwithcreamFené: curdledmilkenrichedwithcream
FAoPresentatthemeeting:CheickBathily–AssistanttotheFAOrepresentativeMmeCisséSafiatouDirarraMmeMariko–PISAcoordinatorAhmedS.T.Camara–FAOlivestockfarmingrepresentative
TheobjectivesofthemissionandSlowFood’sworkinAfricawereexplained,andpossibleareasofcollaborationwerediscussed.
ProductsindicatedbytheFAOoffice:• Bozodriedfish:TheBozolivealongtheNigerRiver.Themenfishandrowpirogues,whilethewomenpreparedriedfish.Freshfishislaidoutonstraw,thenalowfireislit.Thefishislefttodryinthesun,beforebeingarrangedinlargestrawbaskets.• Fakhoi:AleafusedtopreparesaucesbasedonSirimé(meltedbutter).• Deghé:Milletporridge,preparedwithfreshorcurdledmilkorcurdledmilkenrichedwithcream.• Macinasheep:Goundoun(Doundoun,Koundoum)breed.MacinasheeparetheonlywooledsheepkeptbytheFulanipastoralists,andalongwiththeDongola,theonlynativewooledanimalssouthoftheSahara.Probablydescendedfromthewooledthin-tailedsheepofNorthAfricaandintroducedtothepresentareaofdistributionbyMoorsandMoroccansduringtheconquestofTimbuktuinthe15thand16thcenturies.Alsoconsidered,probablyerroneously,tobedescendedfromKarakulorfromvariouscrossesofMerinowithSyrianorBarbarysheepinancienttimes.MacinaistheFulaniwordfortheNigerRiverfloodzone.TheMacinabreedisuniquetotheNigerBendinsouth-centralMali,althoughadegenerateformcalledGoundounisfoundinwesternNiger.TheMacinasheepwasdevelopedandmaintainedmainlybytheMacinaFulanitribesmenundertranshumancemanagementpractices.Thisbreedisexceptionallyhardyandrobust;itisresistanttoextremesoftemperature,droughtandpoornutrition.
Description:Mediumsize60-80cm.Weight:male40kg;female30kg. Horns:welldevelopedwithdeepgroovesinmales(65percent),classicspiral“ram’shorn”inshape,0.5percenthavemultiplehorns(4.0percentreportedtohavemultiplehornsinearly20thcentury);8percentfemalescarryweakhornsorscurs.Earsmediumlength(12cm),wide,pendulous.Toggles(apparentlyabsentinoriginalstock)in15percentofanimals.Neckshort.Chestnarrowandshallow.Prominentwithers.Backstraight.Crouptuckedandthinlyfleshed.Legslongandlightlyfleshed.Tailthin,descendstobelowhocks.Colorgenerallywhite,variouslyspottedwithblackandredparticularlyaroundeyesandears.Coatofcoarsewoolmixedwithhair,toforeheadandkneesandhocksbutundersidebare.
Thesheepprovidesmilk,woolandmeat.Thereareveryfewexamplesleft.Thedeclineinnumbersisdueprimarilytothelowvaluegiventothebreed’swool,anditssmallsizemeansthatlocalpopulationshavefavoredlargerbreedswithmoremeat.
IeR (Institut d’economie Rurale)WemetwithDirector-GeneralAlyCouribaandAmadouSidibé,responsibleforgrains.TheIERdoesanexcellentjobofclassifyinglocalseeds,providingthepre-baseseedstoMaliancommunities.Theycouldbeinvolvedonthe
researchside.Theyareveryknowledgeableaboutlocalvarieties.
Thereareover50localvarietiesoffonio.Somelocalexamples:1. Tioi–Hanekui/Tominianorigin(90days)2. Peazo–Sariekuy/Tominianorigin(90days)3. TamaTioi-Sariekuy/Tominianorigin(90days)ThereareotherAfricanvarietiesoffonio:4. Niatia–GuineaConakryorigin(95days)5. Yokountre–GuineaConakryorigin(90days)
Theyconfirmthatthe“rizdufleuve”fromtheGao,Ségou,MoptiandTombouctouregionsthattheelderlyleaderoftheTuaregcommunitytalkedtousaboutisOryzaglaberrimarice,andthatithasabetterflavor.
Otherlocalvarietiesofcerealtheytellusabout:− Kramkram(inthenorth,Tombouctouregion)− Nenuifa(aquaticspecies):thegrainiseaten− Korkorus(fafacueilli):leavesusedinthenorth,intheTombouctouregion,tomakeasauce− Pastèquesauvage(moussamoussamelon):theseedsarealsousedtomakeasauce− Wildamaranth(niuku)− Wildsesame–whitesesame(usedinsauces)− Wildmillet− Poisbambarà(Wanzoo)(inthenorth,Tombouctouregion)− Courcourus(legume)− Alkamawheat(inthenorth,Tombouctouregion:arrivedin1490withtheMoroccanempire,inthenorthinTombouctou− SorgodeMar(under-utilizedsorghumvariety)− SorgodeDecru(under-utilizedsorghumvariety)
CNoP – Diakaridia Diarra (Platteforme des organisations Paysannes du Mali)Around185associationsandcooperativesformthePlatteformedesOrganisationsPaysannesduMali(PFOPM),whichworksthroughoutthecountry.Theassociationsareunitedbythecommitmenttoparticipateresponsiblyinthedrawingupofagriculturalpoliciesandinthesustainablemanagementofruralresourcesfordevelopmentinharmonywithnature.Inparticular,thePFOPMbuildsthecapacityofmemberassociationstolobbyonissueslikefoodsecurityandruraldevelopment,andsupportsthembyfacilitatingtheiraccesstonationalandinternationalproductionfactors.
SeXAGoN – Faliry Boly Sexagonisafederationofrice-producingcooperativesintheNionoregion.Theybuythepre-baseseedsfromtheIEReverythreeyears.InterestingcooperativesituationinMali.TheywillbeinvitedtoTerraMadre.
Sinignesigi Ton - Bacary Fofana The“SinignesigiTon”organization,whosenamemeans“wepredictthefuture”inBambara,bringstogetherproducersin27villagesintheTimissamunicipality, intheSégouregion,topromotemanyactivities,relatingtoliteracyforwomenandyoungpeople,motherandchildhealth,theproductionofseedsandtheprocessing,marketingandsustainablemanagementofnaturalresources.SinignesigiTonalsosupportsacommunityradiostation,whosefrequencyreachesintoBurkinaFaso,Côted’IvoireandGuineaConakry.Theradiostation’saimistoinformandpromotefoodsovereigntyinAfrica,invitingproducerstodescribethepositiveexperiencestheyhavehadwiththesupportoftheSinignesigiTonorganization.
Dogon CountryWemeettheCooperativeofYoungBandiagaràProcessors(supportedbytheRe.TeNGO)TheyareallpartoftheP.D.Co.(ProjetdeDeveloppementCommunautaire)NGO,chairedbyMamadouGuindo.Thiscooperativehaseightmembersandprocessesthefollowingproducts:
− Liane:AfricanandolfiaorzabàinBambara− Tamarind− Hibiscus− Baobab− Wildraisins− Ronier
TheyalsotellusabouttherockhoneyfromtheToupperevillage.Thishoneyisobtainedfromnaturalhivesfoundinsideacave.Thedaywhenthehoneyiscollectedisdecidedbytheoldestinhabitantofthevillage.Thehoneyisalsousedforcurativepurposes.
PRoBleMS FACeD AND eNVISAGeD SoluTIoNS: TheonlyproblemduringthemissionwastheimpossibilityoftravelingnorthtotheTombouctouregionbecauseofsecuritymeasuresimposedbyforeignembassiesontheircitizens.Asaresultwecouldnotvisitgrainproducers,andthevisitswillbepostponeduntilJanuary.
CoNCluSIoNS AND ReCoMMeNDATIoNS: FollowingthemissiontoMali,itisclearthatthereisastronginterestinalltheagriculture-relatedprogramsinthecountry.ThedesiretodeveloptheagriculturalsectorisprobablypartlyduetothescarcityofmineralresourcesinMalicomparedtoneighboringcountries.Whatemergedduringthevariousmeetingsisthedesireofalltheactorstodevelop“Malian”productionanddistributionchains,evenforproductslikecottonthatareinevitablydestinedforexport.Ititsworthemphasizingthattheissueoftypical,localproductsandtheirpresencewithincitysalesnetworks(markets,shops,supermarkets)isgrowinginimportance.Infactitispossibletofindfreshproduceandparticularlyprocessedproducts(flours,jams,grains)aswellasculinaryandmedicinalherbspackagedandlabeledbylocalbusinesses.ThishighlightstheexistenceofMalianandexpatriateconsumersinterestedinbuyinglocalproducts.Additionally,apartfromthecontingentpoliticalproblemsinthenorth,tourismroutesarecurrentlybeingdevelopedthroughoutthecountrywhichcaneasilycomplementtheissuesoflocalproduction.Inlightofthesebriefconsiderations,itispossibletoaffirmthattherearemanyprojectsthatcouldfindaraisond’êtreinMali,inpartnershipwithlocalfarmers’associations,formalandinformalgroupsofproducersandprocessorsanduniversities.
FurtherdiscussionsandanalysiswillbenecessarytoselectaproductthatcouldbecomeaPresidium.Atthisstagewesuggestthefollowingshortlist:Tuaregdairyproducts,minorgrainsandderivatives,Macinasheep.
Milk and Dairy
Wedonotcurrentlyhavein-depthinformation,butfromvariousmeetingsitwouldseemtobeinterestingtoevaluateaprojectlinkedtothetraditionaluseofmilkanddairyproductsbytheTuaregcommunity.Theseincludemilk,curdledmilk,butter,freshcheesesandlong-lifeproducts(abarof“driedmilk”),fromcow’sorgoat’smilk.Insuchacase,theprojectcouldbefocusedprimarilyonhistoricalandculturalaspectsratherthantasteandgastronomy.ItcouldbeagooddeparturepointfortellingthestoryofoneaspectofTuaregcultureandinsomewaysalsothestoryofMalithroughcertaintraditionalproducts.Suchanapproachcouldbeamply“exploited”aspartoftheon-goingtourismdevelopmentoftheTuaregarea.
CurrentlyCIRADandthelocalactorsworkmostlyonthelarge-scaleproductionofcow’smilk,itsprocessingintocommercialfreshcheesesanditsdistribution(inassociationwithlargebusinessesinBamako).HoweverweshouldexcludetheirinvolvementinlocalsupplychainsortheirroleassourcesofinformationonthemilkproductionanddistributionchaininMali.
Intermsofselectingcommunitiesoffarmerstoworkwith,anothermissiontotheareawillbenecessary,aswillthesupportoftheTuaregcommunityandtheFAOoffice.
Inthiscategory,theestablishmentofaPresidiumcouldbeinterestingprimarilyintermsofculturalaspects.
Minor Grains
AsinotherAfricancountries,theissueofrevivingandpromotingminorgrainsseemstobeveryinteresting.Asalreadymentioned,someprojectsalreadyexist,forexampleforfonio,anditispossibletofindthisgraininshopsandmarketsinBamakoandelsewhere.Mali’sgrain-growingregionisinthenorth(Tombouctouregion),whereitseemsthatalongsidesorghum,millet,fonioandkramkramtherewasalsoasignificantproductionofwheatduringcolonialtimes(infacttheareaisrememberedasthegranaryofMali).Aspectsofparticularinterestarethepossiblepresenceoflocaleco-types(tobeverified)andespeciallythepreparationofbreadsandsweetsbasedonwheatflour.
Ifitisnecessarytodoaplanningevaluationforminorgrains,takingintoconsiderationtheirpresenceinotherSaharanandsub-Saharancountries, in termsofwheat it couldbevery interesting toacquiremore informationandcarryoutasitevisit tospeakwith the localcommunities.
Inadditiontogroupsofproducers,IER,CIRAD(perhapsonlyforfonio),IRPADandMali’sFAOdelegationcouldserveaslocalcontactsforinformationsupport.
Forwheat,thereisthepossibilityofestablishingaPresidiumforthehistorical,varietalandprocessingaspects.
Meat/Wool
Duringvariousmeetings,theMacinasheepwasindicatedasabreedatriskofextinction.Itseemsthatthisbreedhasbeengraduallyreplacedbyothernon-localbreedsbecauseofthesmallsizeoftheanimals,andaboveallbecauseoftheprevailingbeliefthattheproductionofwooldoesnothaveasignificantmarket.Sothesheepisusedforitsmeatandmilk,butwithmuchloweryieldsthanotherbreedsinthecountry.BoththeFAOMalidelegationandCIRADcitedin-depthstudiesonthecurrentworthofthebreedanditseemsthatprojectshavealsobeenproposedwhicharenotcurrentlyfunded.
Itcouldbeveryinterestingtoacquiremoreinformationandtocarryoutasitevisittospeakwiththelocalcommunities.
ThepossibilityofestablishingaPresidiumshouldbeconsideredbecausethebreedisatriskofextinction,eventhoughprevailingattitudes(wool)stillneedtobeclarifiedandpossiblyalsothequalityofthemeat.
Whilewaitingtoverifytheinformation,itcouldbeinterestingtothinkaboutinvolvingfarmerswithinthewoolnetwork(SlowFoodItalyproject).
“Promoting origin-linked quality products in four countries(Guinea Bissau, Mali, Senegal and Sierra leone)”
Senegal Report on the first mission to identify local quality products and their producers (see item b. in
Description of the Activities, Terms of Agreement/Project Document).
Mission from 5th to 13th March 2010
BACKGRouND oF THe MISSIoN
Themissionwasthefirstintheframeworkoftheproject.TheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversityhasbeenworkingwithfoodcommunitiesinSenegalforsomeyears.Bothmembersofthemission1hadsomeknowledgeofthegastronomiccultureofthecountry,aswellasofthebackgroundof localagriculturalbiodiversity.Senegalhasarichgastronomicculture;thegreatvarietyofethnicgroupsandecosystemscontributestosuchdiversity.This,aswellastheremarkabledynamismofruralcommunitiesandcivilsociety,wasoneofthemissionsuccessfactors.
TeRMS oF ReFeReNCe:
Themissionaimedatidentifyingthehighestpossiblenumberoforigin-linkedqualityproductsintheregionsofLough,Dakar,NatickandTambacounda;
collectingrelevantinformationonthecommunitieswhoproducetheabovementionedproducts;
identifyingpossiblepartnersforthefurtheridentificationoforigin-linkedqualityproducts;
meetingtheCoordinatoroftheFAOregionalprojectGTFS/RAF/426/ITA(“Inter-countryCoordinationforWestAfricaFoodSecurityProjects”)
eXeCuTIVe SuMMARY
ThefirstmissioninSenegaltookplaceonthesecondweekofMarchandinvolvedPieroSardo,thePresidentoftheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversity,andVeliaLucidi,SlowFooddeskofficerforactivitiesinSenegal.EzioGiraudo,agronomistandtechnicaladvisoroftheproject,shouldhavejoinedthedelegationonMarch8thinDakar,butduetodelaysofTAP–theairlinehewasflyingwith–hecouldnotparticipateinthemission.DuringthestayinSenegal,theproducerandprocessorcommunitiesidentifiedduringthefirstphaseoftheproject(deskresearch:seeitema)inDescriptionoftheActivities,TermsofAgreement/ProjectDocument)werevisited.Thedelegationwentnorth,toLouga,whereitmetthepersoninchargeofFONGS2inLouga,therepresentativesoftheFarmers›AssociationFAPAL3,andthefarmersresponsibleforthethreeagricultural-economicareasintheLougaregion.ThedelegationthenmovedsouthofDakar,totheProvinceofJoalFadiouth,whereitmetthecommunityofwomenwhoproducethesaltedcouscousfromFadiouthIsland,andtotheSaloumIslands,toDionewar,whereitmetthecommunitiesofwomengatherersofshellsfromthethreevillagesofFalia,DionewarandNiodior.Thedelegationfinallytravelledtosouth-eastSenegal,totheregionsofTambacoundaandKedougou,whereitmettheBassarìcommunity,whichproducesfonio. About25interestingproducts-vegetablevarieties, localanimalbreedsandhoneys-havebeenidentified:localcereals,suchassounàmillet,fonioandcountlessvarietiesofrice,afewlegumes,suchastheniebébean,somelocalandchickenbreeds,severalspontaneousfruitsandfinallymangrovehoney.
1PieroSardo,PresidentoftheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversityandVeliaLucidi,SlowFooddeskofficerforSenegal,participatedinthemission.2FédérationdesONGduSénégal3FédérationdesAssociationsPaysannesdeLOUGA
Afewprocessedproductsalsoseeminteresting,suchasthe“liquidbutter”ofPeulorprocessedproductsderivedfromniebé,suchasthiakryorniebécouscous,thesaltedcouscousfromtheSaolumIslandsorsometraditionalcoffeebaseddrinks.GiventhehighquantityoftypicalandtraditionalproductsinSenegal,thepossibilitytocontinuethesearchtoidentifytraditionalproductswithtwolocalexperts4whopossessadeepknowledgeofthelocalgastronomicandagriculturalcultureandcanhelpusdeepenourworkhasbeenexplored.Theproductsandtherespectiveproducercommunitiesvisitedduringthemissionwhichseemtobethemostrelevantforthepurposesoftheprojectarethefollowing:saltedcouscousfromtheIslandofFadiouth,mangrovehoneyfromtheIslandofFalia,Bassarìfonio,niebébeanandseveralspontaneousfruitsfromtheSaloumIslands.However,wereservetherighttochangeandwidenthislist,astheresearchwork,aswellasthetastingandanalysisofsamplesarestillunderway.Possiblefuturepartnershavebeenidentified:theFarmers›Associationsmet–suchasFONGS-FAPAL,theNGOWulaNafaa,FenagiePecheandRoppa.
DeSCRIPTIoN oF MeeTINGS
Saturday 6th March
DakarArrivalinDakar,3.00am.
10.00amMeetingwithMadiengSeck,ofthemonthlymagazineAgriInfosandfoundingmemberoftheSyfiaInternationalAgency,apressandcommunicationagencyontheruralworld.MrSeckcoordinatedourvisittoSenegal.
11.00amVisittothetwomostimportantmarketsinDakar:marchéKarmel(called“marchédesblancs”bytheSenegalese)andmarchéSandaga.Theaimofthesevisitsistoanalysethetypeandoriginofproductssoldatthemostimportantmarketsinthecapitalcity.SeveralAsianproductsaresold(rice,peas,lentils,spicesandvariouscannedproducts)andevenlargequantitiesoffreshvegetablescomefromChina(suchascabbage,turnips,courgettesandpotatoes).TherearealsoproductsimportedfromEurope:Spanishtomatoes,00wheatflour,Italianorangesandpasta,DutchonionsandpowderedmilkandFrenchbutterandpotatoes.Amonglocalproducts,thereareseveralvarietiesofniebébeans(white,blackandgrey),alocalmilletvariety(Sounà),JubJub(Wolofnameforawildfruit)andespeciallymanyherbsforthepreparationofinfusionsusedintraditionalmedicine(suchasNguerrandMoruboff–theseareWolofnames).
12.00amLunchatLePointd’InterrogationI.ThisrestaurantservestypicalSenegalesedishesofhighqualityanditwasopenedbyaladywhoisacookoftheTerraMadrenetwork.
2.00pmDepartureforLouga,inthenorthofSenegal
4.00pmWestopinThiestovisittheOrganicExhibition
Theexhibitionincludes15standswhichsellorganicfertilizers,vegetables,fruit,cereals(riceandmillet)andlocalseeds.WemeettheGroupement Bio Seel Seelal Ak Defar Djiko, Keuri kao.ThisisoneofthemaingroupsoforganicproducersintheprovinceofThies.Theirstandiscleanandwellpresentedandincludesseveralproducts,suchas:
Seurap,avegetablewhichbelongstotheturnipfamily,butwithastrongerflavourCouscousofredniebéMouracke(redhuskedniebéandsugar)Banthe“coffee”(manioccoffee)SounàmilletSorghum
ThisisaveryinterestingorganisationwhichmaybeinterestedinTerraMadreandintheSlowFoodnetworkinSenegal.
WemeettheFederation Woobin of Keur Moussa (17kmawayfromThies,itincludes37villages).ThisfederationwasfoundedtopromotesustainabledevelopmentwithintheKeurMoussacommunities.Oneofitsmainactivitiesisthepromotionofalocalchickenbreed(calledsekhinthelocallanguage)throughavaccinationandfeedimprovementprogramme.Breedsaredistinguishedaccordingtothecolourofplumage.Wolofnamesoflocalbreeds:
− Redchicken:SekhTirr(Tirristhenameusedtoindicatetheredcolourofpalmoil)− Whiteandblackchicken:SekhPetaw(thisisthetermusedtoindicatethecolourofkourìshells)− Allwhiteorallblackchickens:SekhBenuMello(whichmeans“onecolour”),thesearethechickensusedinritualsacrificestoask
forthehelpofspirits.
4ThetwopeoplearerespectivelyMalikSow,representativeofFAPALinLougawhowillfollowtheresearchinthenorthofSenegal,intheregionsofLougaandSaintLouis,andBinetaColy,whoisresponsibleforsomeprogrammesofMPNBRLA/USAIDProgrammeAgricultureGestiondesRessourcesNaturelles“WulaNafaaII”andwhowillfollowtheresearchintheregionsofTambacoundaandCasamance.
WemeetaGroup of women who grow local rice varieties (in Ndof, Fatick region),representedbyAssaneGueye (coordinatoroftheprogrammewhoworksfortheNGOAgricole).ThisgroupofwomenissupportedbythePROFEISprogramme(PromotingfarmerexperimentationandinnovationinSahel),fundedbytheGermannon-profitorganisationMisereorwhichworksinSenegalandMali.Theprogrammesupports these riceproducerswith theaimof recovering the seedsof local varieties.Todate, theyhave identified11varietiesforwhichthegroupisautonomousandabletoreproduceseeds.Hereareafew:
• Singtango• Bacaunda Ball• Saliou Ndiongar• Merthete• Helctere• Helectere Precoce• Bacounda Yeekh• Merthete Precoce
Thisseemsaveryinterestingexperiencetoinvolveintheproject,sowedecidetotakenoteoftheircontactdetailsandourlocalcontact,MrMadiengSeck,willvisittheminthefollowingmonths,duringtheharvestingseason,togathermoreinformationontheprogrammeandthericevarietiesgrown.
WemeetMrDoudouDiop(presidentofFE.N.A.B.–theNationalFederationforOrganicAgriculture)whoexplainshow,inhisopinion,themainproblemforsmallproducersaremultinationalswhowanttohaveaccesstotheseedsoflocalvarietiesinordertopatentthem,whiletheybelongtovillagecommunities.HeexplainsthattheCopagem5Federationworkstohelpfarmersprotecttheirseeds.
8.00pmArrivalinLouga.
Sunday 7th March
Louga
10.00amMeetingwithMalikSow,contactpersonofFapal.Fapal(FederationdesAssociationsPaysannesdeLOUGA)isafarmers’association
whichbelongstoFONGS,afederationof31farmers’organisationsthroughoutSenegalwhichalsoincludesCncr6,Roppa7andCopagem.Mr.Sowmaybethepersonwhowillhelpusidentifylocalproductsinthenorthofthecountry.HeknowsSlowfoodandTerraMadreandisveryknowledgeableintopicsrelatedtoagricultureandanimalfarming.
TheLougaRegionisdividedinto3areas:oneareadevotedtoagriculture,oneareadevotedtoanimalfarmingandoneareadevotedtotheproductionofpeanutsandbeans.ThethreemainethnicgroupsarethePeul,theWolofandtheMor.
WevisitaPeulcattlefarmerwhilehisanimalsaregrazing.Senegalesecowscanbesubdividedintothreecategoriescalled–intheWoloflanguage–Goubra(big-sized,withlonghorns),Ndame, (small-sized)andPourndame(medium-sized).BlackcowscomefromMauritaniaandforthisreasontheyarecalledMauré.SomecowsarealsoimportedfromBrazil;thesearefarmedformeatconsumption.Senegalesecowsareusedmainlyformilkproduction.Milkisdrunkfreshorusedtoprepareafewtraditionaldishes(suchasatypicaldessertcalledthiakry,ortocook“couscousetsanglé”).Aproductderivedfrommilkismilkoil:aliquidbutterusedascondimentonriceortocook.Whenold,cowsarebutcheredformeatconsumption.“Before,theyusedtoliveuntiltheywere20,now–duetoadecreaseinthequalityandquantityoftheirdiet–theyliveabout12-15years”,thecattlefarmerexplains.Duringtheday,cowsgrazefreelyandatnighttheysleepoutdoors,inthesameplace.Malesarekeptintheherds,andtheyareconsideredprestigiousanimalsforculturalreasons.AcensusofallheadsofcattleintheLougafarmingareahasneverbeencarriedout.Therearesomeofficialfigures,buttheydonotmatchreality.Asformilkproduction,duringtherainyseason–whichinrecentyearshasonlylastedabout2months–cowsproduceamaximumof4litresadayandaremilkedonlyonceaday,inthemorning.Inthesummer,milkproductiondropstoabout1,5litresaday.Thefatcontentofmilkhasneverbeenmeasured,butabout30-35litresofmilkgiveabout2litresofbutter.Wecanthereforeassumethatmilkhasa7%fatcontent.Butterisproducedallyearround,withaproductionpeakintherainyseason.
11.00amMeetingwithFapal
5Copagemmeans“CoalitionPourlaSauvegardeDuPatrimoineGénétiqueAfricain”andisacoalitionpromotedbyInades,AccordSahel,Grainandotherorganisationsofcivilsociety.ItsmissionistosafeguardandsustainablymanagethevegetablegeneticresourcesofAfrica.ItpromotesactionstoensurethatvegetablegeneticresourcesbecomethepropertybothoftheStateandoflocalcommunitiesandareusedforthebenefitofeveryone,currentandfuturegenerations.ItsgoalistoprotectthediversityofAfricanflora-especiallythespeciesusedbymanasfood–fromthespeculationofagricultural-industrialmultinationals.Inparticular,CopagenworkstoraiseawarenessintheAfricanruralworldonthedangersrelatedtotheintroductionofGMOsinthenationalagriculture.AtoolusedbyCopagenisthelobbyingcampaignwithAfricanpoliticalinstitutions,soastohelpgovernmentleadersadoptandimplementlawsthatsafeguardtheAfricangeneticheritageandsupportthestrategicinterestsoflocalcommunities.
6ConseilNationaldeConcertationetdeCoopérationdesRuraux7NetworkofWesternAfricanfarmers’andproducers’organisations
MoussaNdiaye,thepresidentofFapal,andtherepresentativesofthethreeagricultural,woodandanimalfarmingareaswerepresentatthemeeting(thecompletelistofallparticipantsisprovidedintheAnnex).
WeareexplainedthattherainyseasoninLougalasts2months,sofarmersaretryingtoimproveseedsandadaptthemtoshortcycles–traditionalseedssometimesdonothaveenoughtimetoreachmaturation.Thereisundergroundwater,butthereisnoinfrastructuretopumpanduseit.Asforsowing,inthepastseedswereoftenmixedforthemajorityofvegetablesandcereals,whiletodaytheonlymixedcultivationisthatofpeanuts(50kg)withniebè(2-3kg).ThesearethetwomostabundantproductionsintheLougaregion.Asfarasassociatedcropsareconcerned,milletandniebéareassociated,althoughingeneral–giventhedifficultharvest–thereisusuallyoneplotforeachproduct.Inthepastseedswereselectedandreproducedatlocallevel.Today,themostproductivevarietiesareboughtfromaresearchcentreinthecityofBambey.Nevertheless,oldvarietiesarestillconsiderednutritionallyricherandsuperiorintermsoforganolepticfeatures.Unfortunately,theincreaseofdesertificationbarelyallowsforthesecultivationsastheyneedatleast3-4monthsofrain(rainyseasoninJuly,AugustandSeptember).Localcerealvarieties(suchasmilletandsorghum),niebéandcassavaaremainlyeatenbythefamilieswhogrowthemand,incaseofsurplus,soldatlocalmarkets.Bothlong-cycleandshort-cyclesorghumvarietiesaregrown.Theyieldofsorghumisabout600kgperhectareanditismainlyusedtofeedanimals.Endemicvarietiesareselectedbychoosingthethickestspikes,withthehighestnumberofgrains.Mostofthefruitandvegetablesareaisdevotedtotheproductionofonions.Thetwovarietiesgrownarethesocalled“VioletdeGalmi”andthe“Rouged’Amposta”(redonion).SeedsareboughtfromTropicalSemandShimandaremodifiedvarieties.Allproductsderivedfromniebé–suchasniebécouscousandniebéthiakry-areinterestingfortheprojectpurposes,astheyarestrictlyconnectedtotheterritoryandtoSenegalesegastronomicculture.
3.30pmDepartureforDakar
9.00pmArrivalinDakar
Monday 8th March
Dakar10.00amMeetingwithITA(InstitutdeTechnologiealimentaire).
PieroSardo,VeliaLucidi,MadiengSeck,AmadouWade8,ModouMbaye9andOumarDieme10participateinthemeeting.WithITA,alikelypartnerforfutureprojects inSenegal,wediscussapossiblecooperationinthefieldofbasichygienetraininginfoodproductionandprocessing.ITAcouldprovidetrainingon:
− Packingandtransport− Processingmethodstoobtainstandardproducts− Goodproductionandfoodhygienepractices(ASEO,riskprevention)
Inordertoensureasuccessfultraining,itshouldbeaimedatamaximumof10people.
3.00pmMeetingwithSenegaleseSlowFoodconviviumleadersattheMermozSacreCoeur.SlowFoodconvivium leadershavebeen informedof theFAOprojectand itsobjectives. SlowFoodmembers inSenegalwill thereforecontributetothecollectionofinformationintheircommunities,alsoinvolvingtheelderly,withtheaimofidentifyingtraditionalproductsrelevantforlocalgastronomyandculture.
9.00pmDinnerwithMoustaphaNdiaye11
Tuesday 9th March
Dakar
10.00amMeetingwithMr.AmadouOuattara(FAOSN).DanieleSalvini12,MadiengSeck,PieroSardoandVeliaLucidiparticipateinthemeeting.Mr.OuattaraisexplainedthemissionoftheSlowFoodmovementandtheobjectivesofourmissioninSenegal.HeisalsogivenadetailedreportofthefirstthreedaysspentinSenegal.
1.00pmDeparturefortheSaloumIslands
4.00pmMeetingwiththecommunityofJoalFadiout(PetiteCote),womenproducersofsaltedcouscous.
8CoordinatoroftheTechnicalSupportSection–FenagiePeche(FederationofthefishingEIGsinSenegal)9Ancaroperator(AgenceNationaleConseilAgricoleetRural)10HeadofthefruitandvegetablesectionatITA(InstitutdeTechnologieAlimentaire)11SpecialCouncillortothePresident,economist,inspectorforlargeprojectsoftheState,coordinatoroftheSupervisionSectorforLargeProjectsandmemberofthePresidenttaskforce12InterCountryCoordinatorGTFS/RAF/426/ITA
FadioutislocatedonanislandmadeentirelyofshellsandcanbereachedfromJoalthroughalongwoodenbridge.TheinhabitantsofJoalFadioutareveryproudoftheirreligioustolerance,asChristiansandMuslimslivepeacefullywithoneanother.ThemayorofFadiouthMrJacques Ndong, andthevariousEIGsoftheisland(thelistisprovidedintheAnnex)participateinthemeeting.Thetypicalproductofthisislandis“saltedcouscous”.Thisisamilletcouscousandiscalled“salted”becausegrainsarefirstwashedinseawater.Thisoperationgivesthecouscousastrongsmellandtasteofseaandseasalt.ThisisatypicalhandprocessingmethodfollowedbythewomenofFadiouthIsland.Themilletishuskedanddecorticated,thegrainsarethenwashedinseawaterandfinallysteamed.Inthepast,womenwalkedtotheoceantowashtheircouscous,wherethewatercontainedmoreoxygenandwasnotstagnant.Whentastingit,thesmellandtasteoftheseaareverystrong;saltedcouscousisaperfectaccompanimentforfish.ItisalocalexcellentproductandhasallthefeaturestobecomeaPresidium.Itwouldbenecessarytocarryoutafewteststoassessthepurityoftheseawaterwherethecouscousiswashed.WetakeasamplewhichwewillhaveanalysedbytheChamberofCommerceofTurin.
Forthesewomen,wemayenvisageaprocessinglaboratorywhichwouldensuretheproductionofahigherqualityproduct.Therearesomepremisesinthevillagewhichcouldbeusedasprocessingareas.SlowFoodmayassistwithmarketingandsales.Wetastetwolocalrecipes:Mbambou–Hane,adishmadewithmangrovefruitandpeanutbutterandNeveday,preparedwithmangroveleaves.
9.00pmArrivalinDjifer.
Wednesday 10th March
SaloumIslands–Dionewar9.00amMeetingwiththethreevillagesofFalia,NdiourandDionewar.
InDionewarIsland,locatedintheSaloumdelta,therearethreecommunities/villages(Dionewar, Falia and Niodior)wherewomengatherandprocessshellfishaswellastheislandwildfruits.Themainproblemisthemoreandmoreevidentreductionofsearesources,duetoindustrialexploitationandthechangeintheecosystemcausedbythebreakingofthePointedeSangomar,whichledtoanincreaseinthewatersalinity,anincreaseinpopulationandthedifficultytoimproveanddifferentiatelocalproductions.OntheIslandsthereisgreatabundanceofwildfruits,suchasroselle,baobabfruit,ginger,tamarind,ditakhandnew,whicharegatheredbywomentomakeverytastyandvitaminrichsyrupsandjams.
TheSlowFoodFoudationforBiodiversity–incooperationwithalocalagronomist–hasdevelopedadescriptivestudyofediblefruitswhichareeconomically interestingforthe localpopulationandcanbeprocessed.DescriptionsarebasedonaquestionnairefilledoutduringinterviewswithpeopleintheSoloumIslandsandDakarandatfocusgroupsorganisedbytheEIGofthewomenwholiveinthevillages.ThestudyhighlightsaratherdiversifiedvegetationandfloraontheSaloumIslands,linkedtothegeomorphologyandpedologyofthearea.Twolargegroupsofplantformationscanbefound:plantswhichcoverunderwaterareasandtheiredgesandthosewhichcoverlandareas.
Themangroveisthemostimportantplantformationofthefisttype,whiletheinterioroftheislandsischaracterisedbyvegetationtypicalofSoudan:Detariumsenegalense(ditakh),Parinarimacrophylla(newtree),Tamarindisindica(tamarindtree),Ceibapentandra(ceibatree),Eleisguineensis(oilpalm),Cocosnucifera(coconutpalm)etc.
Amongtypicalproducts,thewomenoftheIslandshighlightedthefollowing:1. Mangrovehoney(Falia)2. Palmoil(theyhaveproblemswithharvestingandprocessing)3. New–this isthenameofthefruitofa localwildtree,whosealmondiseaten. It iseatensimilarlytopeanutbutterorfresh
peanuts.Anoilcalled“rich”,usedasacondiment,isobtainedfromthegrain.
Wenoticethatwomenarenotwellawareoftheproductsoftheisland,soitwouldbenecessarytopromoteandraiseawarenessonlocalproducts,involvingthegroupsoflocalwomenand–forinstance–schools.
Mangrovehoney13couldbeaninterestingproductforthepurposesoftheproject.
4.00pmDepartureforTambacounda
10.00pmArrivalinTambacounda.WesleepinthehouseofBinetaColy,aTerraMadrecookandemployeeatWulanafaa,aSenegaleseONGsupportedbyanUSAIDprogramme.BinetacouldhelpusidentifytheproductsandtheproducersintheTambacoundaandKedougouareas,aswellasintheCasamanceregion,wheresheoriginallycomesfrom.
Thursday 11th March
Tambacounda9.00amDepartureforKedougou
10.00MeetingwiththeBassarìcommunity,themainfonioproducers.
Localcerealsexist,arevaried,nutritiousandappreciated,butinlargecitiesmanyarelosingtheskillstousethem.Onlytheelderlyincitiesandwomeninvillagespreservethisknowledge.Amonglocalcereals,themostimportantaresorghum,millet,fonioandlocalorancientricevarieties.Wemayalsotakelotusseedsintoaccount,althoughthisisonlyamarginalcrop.FoniocanbefoundthroughoutWesternAfrica,butitisparticularlytypicalinSenegal.Foniowastraditionallygrownbywomen,asanadditionalfoodreservebeforemilletwouldmature.ItisanancientcerealinAfricaandisparticularlyimportantfortheprestigeitgivestheproducerwhogrowsit.Itisoftenusedasadowryfordaughtersandismainlyeatenonfestiveoccasions.TheBassarì14communitiesarethemainfonioproducersandprocessors.Inthepast,foniowaswidelyeatenbyAfricanfarmersandcitizens,butwiththearrivalofnewcerealsitbeganbeingconsideredasalessvaluablecerealanditscultivationbecamemarginal.Asamatteroffact,ithasastrongculturalvalueforBassarì,especiallyonoccasionssuchasweddings.Allseedsareboughtinthevillage.Todayfonioisbecomingmoreimportantduetoitsnutritionalproperties.Marketdemandisgrowing,butproductionlacksbehind.Foniofibresareusedformassagesanditspowdertotreatchickenpox.ASPROF(Kolda):Senegaleseassociationforthepromotionoffonio,thepresidentisSherifAidara(+221776585447-+221766699242).ISRAiscarryingoutastudyonthedifferentfoniovarietiesinSenegal.
Duringthemeetingwiththewomenfromthecommunity,manyotherinterestingproductsandprocessedproductsarementioned,suchas:− BouilliedeMangue(kedougouinEtiolo,villageofBassari)− Fonio,3varieties:white(momokò,fast,threemonths),black(youckokou,slow,4months)andgrey.FonioisproducedintheKolda,
Kedougou,TambaandSeyuregions.− Usséfruit:itisblackanditstasteissimilartopotatoes− TuberculeCape(Peuldialect),atuberusedtoproduceBUCAI(milletandtuberdrink)− Whitecorn− Etuvérice(barabaràinPeular)− Ognana− Baobabcoffee(madewithbaobabgrains),ruralcommunityofBala,Tambacoundaroad.Grainsareroastedandthehusked.
Duetostillexistingconflicts,wedidnotmanagetovisitCasamance.However,BinetaColyhighlightedafewproductsforthatregion.
− Ceibatreehoney(ceibapentandra);ceibaisawildtreewhosewoodisusedtobuildpiroguesandthereforeisoverexploitedalongthecoastsofSenegal.Itisaveryclearhoney.
− Leung(Wolof):wildfruit,biggerthananoliveandverysweet− Touloukaunaoil− AproducedwhomakescheeseinSediouh− FruitMadd,eatenfreshbutalsousedforthepreparationofajuiceandsyrup.
Friday 12th March
10.00amReturntoDakar
Saturday 13th March2.45amDepartureforItaly
PRoBleMS FACeD ANVISAGeD SoluTIoNS: Theonlyproblemencounteredduringthemissionwasthe lackof theagronomistwhoshouldhavetravelledwiththedelegation.ThisabsencewascausedbytheconstantdelaysofTAP,theairlineusedbythedelegationtotravel.
13ThemangroveofSineSaloumcoversasurfaceofabout80,000hainthenaturalparkoftheSaloumDelta,inanintertropicalareasouthofDakar.Beekeeping,onceimproved,couldbeconsideredaprofitmakingactivityforthisarea,aswellasanimportantfactorforthesafeguardoftheenvironmentalbiologicaldiversity.14BassarìareoneofthemostancientethnicgroupsinSenegal.Theyareancienthuntersandliveinsouth-eastSenegal.
CoNCluSIoNS AND ReCoMMANDATIoNS:Themissiongaveustheopportunitytoidentifymanyinterestingproductsandcontacts.ThiswillallowustoproceedwiththemappingofproductsintheregionsofLouga,SaintLouis,Dakar,Fatck,TambacoundaandCasamance.Inparticular,wearesigningacooperationcontractforthisprojectwithMadiengSeck,MalickSowandBinetaColy.
Itisnecessarytodeepenourknowledgeofeatinghabits–andtheirchangesinrecentyears–,speciallyinthecapitalcity.MadiengSeckwillprobablybeourinterlocutorforthisaspectoftheresearch.
AnanalysisofthewaterwherethesaltedcouscousoftheSolumIslandsiswashedwillbecarriedout.
Thedescriptivesheetsforthe25productsidentifiedduringthemissionswillbeprepared,butthemappingworkwillcontinueincooperationwiththeabovementionedpeople.
Todate,thefollowingproductsareshortlistedfortheselectionofthenextSenegalesePresidium:mangrovehoney,saltedcouscous,niebé,andfonio.
VeliaLucidi,theSlowFooddeskofficerforSenegal,incooperationwiththecoordinatoroftheprojectattheofficeoftheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversityinBra,MichèleYperman,andthescientificadvisorforSenegal,ProfessorEzioGiraudo,willwriteafirstdraftofacomprehensivedescriptivedocumentcoveringalltheseproducts(includingproducingcommunities,qualityoftheproduct,linkwiththeterritory,nutritionalaspects,anthropologicalaspectslinkedtoconsumption,commercialissues,etc.).
Alistofinterlocutors/representativesofruralcommunitiestobeinvitedatTerraMadrewillbeprepared.Wearecurrentlylookingintothepossibilitytoletthemostinterestinginterlocutorsmetinthe4projectcountries–andwhowillcometoTerraMadre-stayoneortwoextradayinTurinafterthe4TerraMadredays.
“Promoting origin-linked quality products in four countries(Guinea Bissau, Mali, Senegal and Sierra leone)”
Sierra leoneReport on the first mission for the identification of origin-linked products and their producers (see item
b. in the Description of the Activities, Terms of Agreement/Project Document)
Mission from 22nd February to 1st March 2010
BACKGRouNG oF THe MISSIoN
Themissionwasthefirstoneintheframeworkoftheproject.ItwasalsothefirstcontactoftheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversity(SFFB)inSierraLeone,astheFoundation,sofar,hasneverhadanyactivitiesorprojectsinthatcountry;norarethereanySlowFoodmembers.
TheSlowFooddelegationwasassistedinthedaysbeforeandduringthemissioninthecountrybytheFAOofficeinSierraLeonethroughtheFAORepresentativeMrKevinGallagherandhisassistantMrFulvioCenci.
Thelistofthepeoplecontactedbeforethemissionisthefollowing:
− FAo Sierra leone (Visitedcommunities:KoinaduguVegetablesFarmers(Kabala)-MUSAYAHONEYBEESASSOCIATION)
− eNGIM internazionale (Giuseppini del Murialdo National organization) Turin,Italy.ContactpersoninItaly:PaoloDagheroContactpersoninSierraLeone:MaurizioBoaVisitedcommunities:KentfishermenSchoolofAgricultureofPadriGiuseppinidelMurialdo
− FeDeRCooPeSCA, Rome, ItalyContactpersoninItaly:LucaCocciaContactpersoninSierraLeone:COTTONTREEFOUNDATION(MichaelMomoduKamara)Indicatedcommunity:SongoandBumbunagingerproducers
− SlAFu (Sierra leone Artisanal Fishermen union)ContactpersoninSierraLeone:ThomasSpencerVisitedcommunity:Tombofishermen
− SlAAH (Sierra leone Alliance Against Hunger)ContactpersoninSierraLeone:FrancisWebberVisitedcommunities:Riceproducers’communityfromMokundi,Moyamba(south)Riceproducers’communityfromJaimaorTaluBongorchiefdom,BodistrictGbotimaWomen’sOrganizationincollaborationwithNdegbomeiDevelopmentAssociation
− FRIeNDS oF THe eARTH Sierra leone
Contactperson:OlatundeJohnson
− CeSTAS (Centre for Health education and Appropriate Health Technologies)UniversityofMakeni,meetingwiththeagronomistJosephTholley
− MICRoCAMMINoContactpersoninSierraLeone:PeterBayukuKonteh
− CooPI (International Cooperation) ContactpersoninSierraLeone:MarcoSerenaVisitedcommunity:Gloucestergardenscommunity
− WWooF Sierra leone (World Wide opportunities on organic Farms)ContactpersoninSierraLeone:ShedJah
TeRMS oF ReFeReNCe
Themissionaimedat
• identifyingasmanyaspossibleorigin-linkedqualityproductsintheregionsofFreetown,Koinadugu,BombaliandBo,• collectinginformationonfoodconsumptionhabitsinthecountry,• collectingrelevantinformationonthecommunitieswhoproducetheabove-mentionedproductsand• identifyingpossiblepartnersinthefurtheridentificationoforigin-linkedqualityproducts.
eXeCuTIVe SuMMARYThemissionincludedthefollowingpersons:SerenaMilano,SecretaryoftheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversity,MichelaLenta,SlowFoodAfricaOffice(deskofficerforSierraLeone)andCristianaPeano,technicaladvisoroftheSFFB(AgronomyFacultyofTurinUniversity).TheyvisitedvariousfoodcommunitiesinSierraLeonetounderstandthecontextoffoodconsumptionandfoodproductionandidentifysometraditionalandlocalproducts.Thevisitedcommunitiesarethoseofproducersandprocessorsidentifiedinthefirststageoftheproject(deskresearch:seeitema.intheDescription of the Activities, Terms of Agreement/Project Document).Twosmallcommunitiesof localfishermenwerevisitedinthesurroundingsofFreetown:theHopeofKentassociationandtheSLAFUassociation(SierraLeoneArtisanalFishermenUnion).Duringthesecondphaseofthemission,tworiceproducers’communitieswerevisitedintheruralareaofBo,intheSouthernProvince:thecommunityof riceproducers fromMokundi,Moyamba,and thecommunityof riceproducers fromJaima, inTaluBongorchiefdom.Eventually, thedelegationmovedtothenorthernregionofSierraLeone,toKabala,intheprovinceofKoinadugu,wherethecommunitiesindicatedbyFAOSLwerevisited,i.e.thecommunityofKoinaduguVegetablesFarmers,producingTeaBush,andtheMUSAYAHONEYBEESASSOCIATION.OthervisitswerealsoscheduledintheprovinceofKenema(south-easternpartofthecountry)tomeetcoffeeandcocoaproducers,butbothforalackoftimeandfortheproductpoorquality(especiallycoffee,grownatinsignificantheights,thereforeconsideredofscarcequality),itwasdecidedtocancelthevisit,buttoincludetheproductsintheresearch.
Asaresultofthismission,aroundtwentyproducts-vegetalandseverallocalvarietiesofriceandhoney-havebeenidentified:TowawabeanKonshobeanEyedpeaChillipepper(varietyidentifiedbyCOOPI)Cola(wildandcultivated).Sorghum(Sorghummagaritiferum)Millet(Pennisetumsp)Cassava(Manihotsp)Ginger(local)Mango(twovarieties:LotiandCherry,thefirstintheareaofLunsarandthesecondintheareaofKabala).OrangesGroundnutsMoringa
Localvarietiesofrice:(severalred/brownbelongingtotheO.Glaberrimavariety)Gbengbe‘NgetechNduliwaNgoloyumbuMaika
JumukuiWusuìJbonguè(growndry,whiteandred)Cotubonguè(growninwater)Jewulé(growndry,whiteandred)Patè(growninwater)Doboguì(growndry,red)Jabassì(grownbothdryandinwater)Salè(growndry)
Ocimumbasilicum(patmanji)Basellaalba(broadbologi)Crassocephalumbiafrae(bologi)
BushTeaBush(HyptisSuaveolens)TeaBush(alsoknownasFeverPlant-OcimumGratissimum,OccimumAmericanum,Ocimumviride)KabalaforesthoneyTciuTciu,typeoflocalvegetablegrowninthegardens(green,samesizeofapepper)Tola(powderedokra)Gingerdrink,gingerbeer
Consideringthedifficultytogatherinformationontraditionalcultivars1andtofindadevelopedgastronomy,webelieveitisnecessarytocarryonwiththisproductsurveyincollaborationwithtwolocalexperts2whohaveawideknowledgeoflocalproducers,localgastronomyandfarmingculture.
Theproductsandtherespectivecommunitiesofproducersvisitedduringthemissionwhichwethinktobemostrelevanttotheprojectare:honeyandBushTeaBushofKabalaproducers,colaandsomelocalbeanvarieties.However,wewishtofurtherchangeandenlargethis list,consideringthattheresearch,tastingandanalysisofthesamplesarestill inprogress.
Inaddition,possiblefuturepartnershavebeenidentified,suchasNGOsandItalianorinternationalassociationswillingtocollaboratewithusinthisprocess:eNGIM internazionale (Giuseppini del Murialdo National organization), CooPI (International Cooperation),FeDeRCooPeSCA, CeSTAS (Centre for Health educationand Appropriate Health Technologies),WWooF Sierra leone (World Wide opportunities on organic Farms), MICRoCAMMINo.
DeSCRIPTIoN oF THe VARIouS MeeTINGS
1. Visits to the markets
Thepurposeofthesevisitswastoanalyzethetypeandoriginoftheproductssoldinthemostimportantmarketsofthecapital.WefoundseveralAsianproducts(rice–especiallyfromBrazil,Vietnam,andPakistan–applesfromChinaaswellasalotofcannedfood).SupermarketsandmarketsalsosellseveralproductsfromEuropeandtheUSA:stewedporkknuckles,milkfromtheNetherlandsandIreland,mayonnaisefromtheUSAandUK,beans,jamsfromBelgiumandtheUK,tunafishfromThailand,honeyfromGermany,etc.
Markets visited in Freetown
− Kinjimnyterracedmarket,overlookingthesea,woodenfacility− P2Areamarket,ontheroadside
Markets visited outside Freetown
1“Oldcultivarsorlandracesofcropsheldbylocalfarmersandmaintainedfromonecroppingseasontoanother,werestillinuseinthiscountryuptotheendofthe1980s.Butduetothedisruptionofthefarmingsystem,burningofvillagesandforcedmigrationoftheruralpopulationtothelargerurbancentresbytherebelincursions(1991tonow),thereisnoguaranteeforthewidespreadexistenceofoldcul-tivarsandlandraces.Althoughlimitedinformationisavailableontheuseoftraditionalvarietiesoffoodcrops,yetsomeagriculturistsinthiscountryareknowledgeableofimportantlandracesofstaplefoodandcashcrops,maintainedbyfarmersinspecificareasinthecountry.”SierraLeone:CountryreporttotheFAOInternationalTechnicalConferencePlantGeneticResource,Freetown,June19952Thetwoexpertsare:Mr.JosephTholley,agronomistattheUniversityofMakenywhowillfollowtheresearcinthenorthernareaofSier-raLeone,intheregionsofBombaliandKoinadugu,andMr.ShedJah,responsibleforWWOOFSLinthesouth-easternpartofthecountry.
− marketinBodistrict,nearNjalaUniversity− Kabalamarket
Thesearemainlyretailingmarkets.
Thesecondmarketsellsaboveallimportedindustrialproducts,suchassoupcube,chickenbroth,andpowderedmilk.
of the locally grown/harvested/prepared products we stress the following:
Groundnuts(alsoinpaste,soldinsmallplasticbags)Eyedbeans(small,white,withablackeye)Bigandflatbeans(likebroadbeans)ofdifferentcolours(white,brown,reddish,black)Pidginorkonshobeans(small,round,darkpink)Ginger(smallervariety)Cassava(manioc)andpotatoleaves:fresh,insmallbunches.Thewomenchoptheleaveswithaknife.Whileinthesecondmarket,theleavesarecutbymenwithamachine(alsousedtomakegroundnutpaste).CassavaYamMintCultivatedcola,roundandflatfruitswithanirregularshape,samesizeofawalnuthusk,withtheskinrangingfromwhitetopinkandburgundyred.Wildcola,smaller,withbrownskin,whiteinside,muchmorebitterFruit:pineapples,bananas,platans,mangos,oranges,limesFreshfish(sometimespreservedinice)andsmokedfishLivepoultry(hens,ducksincages)Tombi:orangeballsmadewithtamarindseeds,verysweet.Kneadedandmadedirectlyatthemarketbywomenandchildren.BlackTomble:wildplant.Smalldrybusheswithsmallblackfruits(thepodisblackandvelvety.Whatiseatenisthepulpbetweenthepodandtheseed,richinvitaminC).RadishOnionsandgarlic(hybrid)Eggplants:purple(importedorcultivated)andwhiteoryellow,smallsize(localvariety).Differenttypesofchillipeppers,small,redandgreen.Conshobean:thistypeofbeanisgrownespeciallyinthenorthandneedsalotofwater.Craincrain:horseradishseeds,blackandtiny.Boaboi(Africaalmond-Tarrietiautilis)wildnut,verysweet.Fufu:cookedcassavaballseatenwithasauce.
Notmanyspices.Alittlecorn.Nomillet.Noflours.
2. Kent fishermen community (Freetown peninsula)
SituatedalongthesouthernborderofFreetownpeninsula,theKentfishermencommunityconsistsof700people.TheyaresupportedbyaprojectdevelopedbythereligiousassociationofPadriGiuseppinidelMurialdo(ENGIMInternazionale),managedbyFatherMaurizioBoa.Theestablishedassociationiscalled“HopeofKent”ledbyawoman,ChristianaSesay.Thecommunity,madeupof30fishermen,owns6boats(narrowwoodenboats,longandpointed),withfivefishermenperboat.Eachyeartheyallocateasumofmoneytobeputinthebankasfundforthewholeassociation.
Thecatchmainlyincludes:mackerel,barracuda,lobster,redsnapper,herding.Theyhavecommonpremisesandrecentlytheyhavealsopurchasedanewcoldroom(thankstoafundbytheRegionofSicily,Italy).ThefishisalsosoldtotworestaurantsinFreetown(Florence’srestaurant,managedbyanItalian,andasecondLebaneserestaurant).
3. School for Agriculture of Padri Giuseppini del Murialdo
InLunsar,theassociationPadriGiuseppinidelMurialdomanagesavocationalagriculturalschoolandprojectswith7villages.Thislearningcentreisconsideredoneofthebestinthecountry.Inparticular,thelaboratoryforwater,soilandfoodanalysisdeservesspecialmention.TheprojectpromotedbytheFathersinthevillagesisveryinterestingastheirgoalistoinvolveyoungpeopleinthefarmingsector,toconvincethemtostayinthevillagesandimprovetheterritory.Oneoftheprojectsisaboutthecreationofricewarehouses,sothatthesalesofthiscerealwillbemanagedbyvillageassociationsandnotbysinglefarmersandproducerswillbeabletofetchahigherprice.
TheFathersalsopointouttheseveralproblemsaffectingfarmers,especiallytheso-calledlandgrabbing,i.e.thelandsellingofftoEuropeancompaniesandmultinationals.Forexample,aSwissfirm,Addax,haspurchasedtenthousandhectaresoflandinMakenydistricttoproducebiofuel.
4. Tombo fishermen community, Western Area
TheSierraLeoneArtisanalFishermen’sUnion(SLAFU)consistsofsevenassociations(fishermen,boatmanufacturers,fishsellers,basketproducers,mechanics,boatowners,fishwomenprocessors).Fishermensellfreshandsmoked(bywomen)fishlocally.Therearenoalternativeprocessingtechniques(salting,dryingup…).Theproductsarenotsoldbytheassociation,eachpersonsellsandprocessesonhis/herown.Thereisnolaboratory.Thecatchconsistsof:barracuda,redsnapper,squive(extremelyvaluable),sardinella,greymulletandmanyothers.Apparently,intheSierraLeoneanseaitispossibletofindover200ediblespecies.TheSLAFUrepresentativepointedouttrichecus senegalensis,theAfricanseacow,asanendangeredspecies.Onceallthemangrovesarecut,thisbigwatermammalhasnobarriers,andsomanyspecimenreachricefieldsandeatuphundredsofkilosofrice.Forthisreason,theyareoftenkilledbyfarmersandeaten(theirmeatissaidtobereallydelicious).Trichecus senegalensisisconsideredatinternationallevelasanendangeredspecies.
Thefishermenmakingupthisassociationarealsofarmerswhogrowdifferenttypesoffruit,butdonotprocessit.
Recommendations and operational decisions:
ThesecommunitiesreportedthesupportgiventofishermenbyFEDERCOOPESCA,andsowecontactedthemforapossiblecollaborationandtoexchangeinformation.WhenFEDERCOOPESCAlearnedaboutthemappingcarriedoutbytheSlowFoodFoundationforBiodiversity,itpointedouttheimportanceofginger,aproductonwhichithasbeenworkingincollaborationwiththeCottonTreeFoundationintheareaofSongoandBumbuna.Thelocalgingerwasmuchdiffusedbetweentheyears1950-70andknownintheinternationalmarketas“gingerSierraLeone”.Almostabandonedbetween1990and2002becauseofthecivilwar,todayitiscultivatedinsmallscaleinthevillagesandtheattemptstoberevivedforexportationhavenoaftermath,becauseamoreproductivecultivationislookedfor.
WealsoaskedFEDERCOOPECSCAforthelistoftheidentifiedfishspeciesbothinKriolanguageandinEnglish.
5. Mokundi rice producers’ community, Moyamaba (south)
TheMouallyAssociationisonthewaytoBo(capitaloftheSouthernProvince),intheterritoryof‘NjalaUniversity.
ThiscommunityisbasedneartheUniversity,butitdoesnotreceiveanytechnicalassistance.TheUniversitycanteenmainlyconsumesimportedriceandnoriceispurchasedfromlocalproducers.Duringthewar,NjalaUniversitymovedtoFreetownandhasrecentlycomebacktoNjala,onlysixmonthsago.Thelibrary,fullofinterestingbooks,isstillinFreetown.InNjala,theexperimentalfieldsandthecattleshedshavenotbeenrestoredyetandtheUniversityisnotcompletelyoperating.Thecommunityconsistsofonehundredriceproducers,onaverageeachfamilyownsthreeacresofland(oralittlemore).Onthewhole,therearearound400acres.
Theidentifiedlocalvarietiesarethefollowing:Gbengbe‘NgetechNduliwaNgoloyumbu(oneofthe2mostproductivelocalvarietiesgrowndry.Thisvarietyishighlyappreciatedforitssweetnessandsoftness,tastyalsowithnodressing).
Maika(oneofthe2mostproductivelocalvarietiesgrowndry).Jumukui(verysmallanddrygrains,producinglessthan8bushels3peracre).Wusuì(oneofthemostproductivelocalvarietiesgrowninwater).
Theimprovedvarieties,grownbylocalproducers,arethefollowing:Nerica1and2(introducedin2007,whoseseedsaregivenforfreebythegovernment).Rok1,2,3,17.Rockiamp4(themostwidespreadvariety:producersdonotlikeitverymuchbecauseittendstogethardquicklyandtolosesweetness).
Theyieldchangesaccordingtothegrownvariety.Herearesomeexamples:MaikaandWusuìproduce20bushelsperacre,theotherlocalvarieties16bushelsperacre.Rockiampproduces22kilosperacre.
Normally,onebushelperacreissown.
Producerssaythattheimprovedvarietieshaveabetteryield,buttheypreferthetasteoflocalvarieties.
Riceisusuallyboiledandeatenwithsauces(madewithcassavaleaves,potatoleaves,okra,meatorfish)
Bananabreadandricepiesmadewithriceflour,ripebananaandpalmoilarealsopreparedforchildren.
Partofthecropisusedtomakeseeds,apartiseatenandapartissold.
Productsaresoldonlywhenthereisasurplus.
6. Jaima rice producers’ community near Talu Bongor chiefdom, Bo district, Gbotima Women’s organization, assisted by Ndegbomei Development Association
ThepersoninchargeofthisassociationisFrancessKallon.
Theassociationismadeupof64members,especiallywomen.Theproductsmainlygrownbythecommunityarethefollowing:rice(growndryorinwater),cassava,groundnuts,okra,eggplants,potatoes,yam,eyedpeas,oilpalm,sesame,sorghum,millet,bananas,mangos,oranges,andpineapples.
Thelocalvarietiesofricearethefollowing:jbonguè(growndry,whiteandred)cotubonguè(growninwater)jewulé(growndry,whiteandred)patè(growninwater)doboguì(growndry,red)jabassì(growndryandinwater)salè(growndry)
Thecultivationofcerealssuchassorghum,milletandriceisobtainedbymixingseeds.Onlyriceisgrowninwater(transplanted)andlocalsconsideritasthemostvaluableproduct.Insteadwhitesorghumismainlyusedtopreparebabyfood.Thewomenproducerstoldusthatsorghumandmilletareimportantforfoodsovereigntyastheyareharvestedindifferenttimesoftheyearcomparedtoriceandareusedespeciallyfordomesticconsumption.Theyalsotoldushowthesecerealsarecooked:sorghumandricetogether(2cupsofriceand3cupsofsorghum),orriceandmillet.
7. Koinadugu Vegetables Farmers, Kabala (Koinadugu Region, Northern Sierra leone)
ThecommunitypromoterisMissBridgetKamara,whiletheheadofthecommunityiscalledHadjaSundu.Themeetingwasalsoattendedbytwoherbalists:Mr.PabalaeMr.Fofana.TheFAOrepresentativeforthisprojectisMr.RichardGoba,expertinaddvalue.
Koinadugufarmersgrowrice,cassava,groundnuts,anddifferenttypesoffruit,butaboveallmanyvegetables,bothhybridandlocal(carrots,purpleandyelloweggplants,lettuce,cabbage,cauliflower,potatoes,onions,tomatoes…).Thereisnoprocessedfood,noteventomatosaucebecause,theytoldus,themachinedidnotarrive.TheyproducericefortheWorldFoodProgramme(specificallyfortheP4Pprogramme,PurchaseforProgress)accordingtowhichriceispurchasedlocallyandthendistributedinthecountry.Traditionally,farmersnotonlythresh,dryandhuskrice,buttheyalsoprepareasortofparboiledbycookingroughriceandBushinhotwaterboilersforanentireday(itshallboilinthelasthours)andthendryingitup.Theyusuallypreferthetasteofnormallyprocessedrice(richerinamid).
3 Onebushel,thelocalunitofmeasurementforcereals,correspondsto18-24kgofweight.4 TheRockiampricevarietywasintroducedafterthewar.In2007,Nericastartedtobeconsumed.
Bush Tea Bush and Tea Bush
FAOhasbeenworkingontheproductionchainofBushTeaBushandTeaBush(Fever Plant),twowildplantswhicharedriedupandthenusedforinfusion.TheTeaBush(Occimum Viride, Occimum Americanum, Occimum Gratissimum)isarealmedicinalherb.Itisverybitterandsomepeopleeventoldusitisusedtohaveanabortion.TheBushTeaBush(Hyptis Suaveolens)isusedtomakeveryscentedherbalteas(citrusaromas)andhasvarioushealingproperties(inparticularitisusedtocalmstomachache).Thisplantisfoundwild,butnowtheyaretryingtocultivateit.Onlytheleavesaregatheredtomaketheherbalinfusion,putinbigwickerbasketsandtraditionallycarriedonthehead.Thentheyarelaidonapieceofplasticmaterialandlefttodryupinthesunforsomedays(atnighttheleavesshallbewithdrawnbecauseofhumidity).Finally,theyarepackedinsmallbagsandsold.Thepriceisquitehigh(500LeonesinKabala,1000inFreetown).
Otherindigenousplantsforconsumption:moringa(MissBridgetKamarasaysitismainlyfoundandusedinBodistrict),locos(theseedsarefermentedandcrushedintopowderandthenusedtomakeasaucetogetherwithpepper,saltandonion),lemongrass.
Thiscommunityisinvolvedinseveralprojects(atleastseven),includingtheonewiththeWorldFoodProgramme(forrice).
TheBushTeaBushwillbeincludedinthelistofselectedproductsforthepurposeoftheproject.
FAOrepresentativesMr.PaoloLucciChiarissiandMr.FulvioCencialsosuggestedinvolvingDr.LauraMarini,FAOInternationalConsultantinGenderandBiodiversity,whohasworkedontheTeaBushproductionchainandmappedmedicinalherbsinthenorthofthecountry.
8. Musaya Honey Bees Association (Forest honey – Koina Pure Honey)
ThiscommunityofbeekeeperscalledMUSAYAHONEYBEESASSOCIATION(Kabala,indicatedbyFAO)wascreatedin2007;itconsistsof25membersandowns400traditionalcylindricalbeehivesmadewithdriedgrassand7woodenbeehives.Uptosometimeago,traditionalbeehiveswerepositionedonveryhightreebranches.ThankstoFAOassistance,traditionalbeehiveshavebeenplacedatlowerlevelandchanged,thusseparatingthebroodingareafromthehoneyproductionarea.Thisnewpositionalsoallowswomentotakepartinhoneyharvest,usuallycarriedoutfromApriltoAugust,withatotalannualproductionofaround340litres.Afterharvesting,honeyisfiltered,placedinsmallplastictanksandsoldbymeasure.Inadditiontohoney,handicraftsarealsomadewiththewaxtakenfromthebeehives(around150litres),suchascandles.Moreover,China’sSouth-SouthCooperationpresentinthatareaupto2009,alsoprovidedtheassociationwithahoneyextractor,aninstrumentwhichhasallowedproducerstoconsiderablyimprovetheirproduct.Thecommunityheadisabeekeeperandfarmer,Mr.PastorJohnKamara.Hemainlyproducesrice,buthealsoreliesonhoneytoincreasehisincome.MrKwameAidoo,aGhanaprofessorinvolvedintheFAOproject,taughtlocalproducerstolookafterbeeswhichwereoftenkilledbyanunsuitableuseofsmoke.Nowbeekeeperswaterbees,somethingwhichwasneverdonebefore.Theyhavealsostartedtousewax(whichwasthrownaway)tomakedifferenthandicrafts.Honey,accordingtothecommunityhead,isverygoodandcompletelydifferentfromthatofotherareasofthecountry,thankstothebloomingseasonrichnessandvariety:darkhoneyhasamoreintense(andcaramelized)taste.
Mr.PastorJohnKamaraisparticularlyinterestedingettinghelptopackageandlabelhoney.Mr.FulvioCenci,AssistantoftheInterCountryCoordinatorofFAOSL,hassomedoubtsaboutit,anywayhetoldusthatthewomenarewillingtohelpthecommunityimproveproductionandpackaging.
ItneedstobestressedthatthatKoinahoneyhasbeenknownforquiteawhilealsointhesurroundingcountries,uptothepointthatmiddlemenfromLiberiaandGuineaConakrycrosstheborderstopurchaseit.Inaddition,foreveryNewYearcelebration,manypeoplefromFreetownandabroadcometowalkontheBintumaniandontheWaraWaraMountainandspendoneweekinKoinaduguDistrict.UsuallythedemandforhoneyisveryhighatthattimebecauseKoinaduguhoneyisconsideredoneofthebestproduceatnationallevel.Unfortunately,inthatperiodhoneygroupshavealreadysoldalltheirproduction.Atthattimeispossibletofindthehoneypurchasedbythemiddlementhatbenefitfromthisevent.
Thishoneyissurelyoneofthebestidentifiedproducts.
9. Gloucester gardens community
COOPI,anItalianNGObasedinMilan,hasbeenworkingonaprojectofcommunitygardensinSierraLeone.ThisprojectalsoinvolvesFUPAP,FreetownUrbanandPeriurbanAgriculturePlatform.
WedecidedtovisittheGloucestercommunity,particularlyinterestingfortheirtraditionalproducts.NorthofFreetown,Gloucesterisoneofthemostancientsettlementsinthatarea.Itisanextraordinarilytidyandcleanvillageoverlookingavalleyofwonderfulgardens.Herethetraditionofterracedgardensdatesbacktothe19thcentury.Dry-stonewallsarewellkeptandthegardensincludethethreelevelsenvisaged
byagroecology:short-cyclecrops(herbs,salad,springonions,eggplants,beans…),bushesandsmalltrees(bananas…)andforesttrees(mango…).Thewaterisgatheredinstreamsorwellsandcarriedbyhandinwateringcans.Differenttypesofpesticidesareused,buttheyhaverecentlystartedadoptingnaturalremedies(suchasneemoil,anaturalpesticidenon-toxicforhumanbeings).Vegetablesaresoldtointermediaries.However,theywouldbeinterestedindirectsaleandtoldustheycouldgetorganizedtogotoFreetownandselltheirproducts.Therealproblemisnottimeorlabour,butrathertransport.Forsomevegetablestheybuytheseeds,whileforothers,seedsareproducedlocally.Wesawdifferentseedfields(e.g.lettuce).Weaskedthemabouttraditionalproducts:theymentionedbasil(patamanji),yellowandwhiteeggplants,bread-treefruit(usuallyboiledorfried)andthenastrangetypeofvegetable(thenamesoundslike“tciutciu”)withagreenskinandtheshapesimilartothatofpepper.Otherlocalvarietiesare:Apun,apinkfruit,eatenfresh,butabitmouthpuckering.Bologi,abroadleafvegetable,similartospinach,usedtocookFufusoup,madewithcassavaandbologi,andPalavasaucemadewithbologi.ThereisalsoalocalvarietyofeggplantscalledMokabi.DifferentproductsarealsogrownforChineseconsumers(inparticularsomecabbagevarieties).
10. Restaurants
Foracompletemapping,wealsovisitedsomerestaurantswherelocaldishesaremade.ThethreeFreetownrestaurantsthatwefoundparticularlyinterestingarethefollowing:MadamePosseh’s(inBabadoriePossehsuburbsinFreetown),BalmayaandFlorenceandFranco’srestaurant(Sussex).
InBalmayawepurchasedoneofthefewSierraLeoneancookbooks(“What’scookingtoday-SierraLeoneanFavourites”-MurielEmekunleDavies,specializedinFoodsandNutrition,ReffoPrinting-Kissy-2001).
AtFlorence’sweweretoldabouttheonlyethnicgroupsofshepherds,Fula.Fula(orPeulintheFrenchtransposition)arenomadsmakingup5%oftheoverallcountrypopulation.Theyraisethelocalcattlebreed,N’DAMA,andproducemilkandfermentedmilk.Usuallymilkingismainlyawomen’stask.
Cooksandrestaurantscanbeusefultounderstand“elitist”foodconsumptioninSierraLeoneandareidentifiedaspossiblepurchasersoflocalproductswhichwillbemappedlateron.
PRoBleMS FACeD AND eNVISAGeD SoluTIoN
OneoftheproblemsisthatSlowFoodhadneverworkedinSierraLeonebeforeandsodidnothaveanetworkofcontacts.
ThesolutionwastostartcollaboratingwiththeUniversityofMakenyandtheagronomistMrJosephTholley,inpartnershipwithCESTAS,anItalianNGOfromBologna.
Mr.JosephTholley,incollaborationwiththeofficeofSlowFoodinItaly,willmaplocalqualityproductsinthetwosouthernregionsofBombaliandKoinadugu.
ThisworkcarriesonalsothankstotheWWOOFcoordinatorinSierraLeone,MrShedJah,whohasbeenmappingthecommunityofproducerspresentintheWWOOFnetwork.Hisworkismainlyfocusedonthesouthernregions,inBoandKenemadistricts.
Asaresultofthismission,wemetNGOs,associationsandsubjectswithgoalssimilartoSlowFood’sorwhohavealreadystartedprojectswithsmallfarmersorfishermen,tryingtoenhancetheirproductsandimprovetheirquality.
Furthercollaborationshavebeentakenintoconsideration,forexamplewithProf.PaulRichards5andSierraLeoneagriculturebodies(e.g.SLARI-SierraLeoneAgricultureResearchInstitute,InstituteofAgriculturalResearch,NationalFarmersAssociationofSierraLeone).
ReCoMMeNDATIoNS
For Kent fishermen community:
OncebacktoItaly,getincontactwiththeirpersoninTurin,PaoloDaghero,toexaminepossibledevelopments.
For Gloucester garden community:5ProfessorofTechnologyandAgrarianDevelopment,WageningenUniversity,TheNetherlands.HehasworkedinSierraLeoneforoverthirtyyears,conductingethnographicstudiesonMendevillagericefarmingsystemsandforestconservationontheLiberianborder.AftertheregionbecameaffectedbytheSierraLeoneancivilwar(1992-2002),heturnedtotheanalysisofthatconflictandhaswrittenmorewidelyontheanthropologyofarmedconflicts.
GetincontactwithFUPAP,FreetownUrbanandPeriurbanAgriculturePlatform.Itwouldbeusefultohavetheircontacts(thepersoninchargeofthisprojectintheCitiesFarmingfortheFutureisPamelaKonneh).
For the community of beekeepers (Koina Pure Honey):
Havesamplesofforesthoneyanalyzed.Weneedmoreaccuratepollenanalysesandanadaptationofglassjarsforpackaging.CollaborationwithSaintGobainVetri,aleadingglasscompany:itexpresseditsintentiontosendexpertstounderstandanytechnicalproblemsandtoconsiderthepossibilityofstartingupsmallbusinessesinthissector.
In general:
ThedeskofficerofFSFBforSierraLeone,MichelaLenta,incollaborationwiththeprojectcoordinatorinBra,MichèleYpermanandthescientificadvisorforSierraLeone,Dr.CristianaPeano,willdrawupafirstversionofadocumentdescribingallthemostinterestingidentifiedproducts.
WithaviewtoTerra Madreevent(Turin,21st-25thOctober2010),alistoftheinvitedcontactpeople/representativesofruralcommunitieswillbemade.
WeareconsideringthepossibilitytohavethedelegatesrelevanttotheprojectsstayfortwomoredaysaftertheendoftheTerraMadreevent.
II. Planningofactivitiestobeimplementedin2011
Annex
GUINEA BISSAU
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
SENEGAL
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
Activities
2011
MALI
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
SENEGAL
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
Activities
2011
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
SENEGAL
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
Activities
2011
SIERRA LEONE
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
SENEGAL
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
SENEGAL
R. I - Activity 1 : Elaboration of selection criteria
R. I - Activity 2 : Products mapping
R. I - Activity 3: Completion of country profiles
R. II - Activity 4 : Preselection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 5 : FAO clearance for selection of Presidio
R. II - Activity 6: Mission aiming at launching activities related to Presidio
R.II – Activity 7: Selection of coordinator and defining institutional collaborations
R. II - Activity 8 : Selection of producers
R. II - Activity 9 : Elaboration of production regulations
R. II - Activity 10 : Finalising producers association
R. II – Activity 11 : Direct support to producers (logistics, equipment,..)
R. II - Activity 12 : Training producers on quality
R. III - Activity 13 : Defining marketing strategy
R. III - Activity 14 : Defining packaging and labelling
R. III - Activity 15 : Commercial promotion of product
R. IV - Activity 16 : Consumers education campaign
Activities
2011
III. Modelofprofilecardusedfortheidentificationanddescription ofinterestingorigin-linkedqualityproducts
Annex
Product Description Form
1. Product name
ProductnameinEnglish:
Productnameinlocallanguageordialect:
Latinscientificname:
Synonyms(ifapplicable):
2. Product description
Shapeandsize:
Color:
Sensoryqualities(texture,taste,aroma):
Habitat,origin,linkswiththeterritory:
Cultivation(orfarmingorfishing)techniques:
Waysinwhichtheproductisconsumedanddescriptionoftransformedproducts:
Nutritionalaspects(andanydemonstratedcurativeproperties):
Socialandculturalaspects:
Istheproductatriskofneglectorextinction?
Istheproductofferedforsale?Ifyes,howandwhere?
Contact details for further information:
IV. CriteriaforindexingqualitylocalproductsinWestAfrica
Annex
InSlowFood’sphilosophyandthespiritoftheGTFS/RAF/426/ITAproject,QualityLocalProductscanbedescribedandindexedbased
onthecriteriadevelopedbelow.Ingeneral,theyareunderstoodtobeedible products (ornon-edibleagriculturalorpastoralproducts)
that form an integral part, from an environmental, historical, social and cultural perspective, of regional or local African
ecosystems and have the untapped and undeveloped potential to contribute to food sovereignty.
cRiteRia foR identifying and descRibing Quality local pRoducts
What is quality for Slow Food: the concept of “narrated quality”
Beforelistingindividualcriteria,itisnecessarytoexplainmoregenerallywhattheconceptofquality meanstoSlowFood.
Thiscomplexandinnovativeconceptderivesfromtwodecadesofexperienceinthefield,workingdirectlywithhundredsofcommunities
ofsmall-scalefoodproducersaroundtheworld,andwasfurtherrefinedwithintheAfricancontextbetween2000and2010.
Qualityinfoodisoftenidentifiedwithchemicalandphysicalanalyses,tastingpanelsandmeasurableanddefinedparameters.This
technicalapproachisvalidwithinacomparative,objectivecontext.However,itdoesnottakeintoconsiderationeverythingthatlies
behindalocalproduct,everythingthathasdevelopedovercenturiesofhistory.
IntheSlowFoodmeaning,thequalityofafoodproductisanarrative.
Itstartsfromtheoriginoftheproduct(dependingonthecase,itcouldbetheplaceaspecieswasdomesticatedordiversified,theplace
whereavarietyorabreedadaptedorevolvednaturallyortheplacewhereacultivationorprocessingtechniquewasdeveloped)and
thentakesintoaccountthecharacteristicsoftheenvironment,localcommunityknowledge,thefameenjoyedlocallybythatproduct,
processingtechniques,recipes,conservationandmarketingtechniques,environmentalsustainabilityand,ofcourse,sensoryand
nutritionalcharacteristics.
Differenttoolsareusedtoconstructthemostexhaustiveanddetailednarrativepossible.
•Thecollectionofinformationandoral accountsfromdirectly involvedactors(farmers,herders,fishers,cooks),witha
particularfocusonwomenandtheelderly.Throughtheirmemoriesandtheirowndirectexperiences,theseactorscan
communicatethemostsignificantelementsthatcandefinethemeaningofaproductwithinacommunityanditsrelationship
withtheenvironment.Obviouslyitisimportanttoevaluatethetruthfulnessandreliabilityoftheseaccounts.
•Tasting—possiblycomparative—isaninvaluabletoolforevaluatingthequalityofproducts,butitisveryimportanttobearin
minditsrelativenature.Everytastingisalwaysconditionedbythehabitsandpersonalcultureofthetaster.
•Theinvolvementofexperts, researchersandscientificinstitutesandtheconsultationofspecialized literature.
Selection criterion I – The link with PlACe: what is meant by “local”.
ThelinkwithplaceisakeycriterioninworktoidentifyQualityLocalProducts.
Anindigenousplantvarietyoranimalbreedcanreachitsbestpotentialintheplacewhereithasacclimatizedoverthecourseofthe
centuriesthankstotheworkofhumans.
“Place”ismeantnotonlyasageographicspacewithaspecificclimateandenvironment,butalsoaculturalandhistoricalmilieu.
Thereforewearenottalkingsimplyabout“where”butalso“how,”aconceptthatembracesthephysicalspaceandthespecificnatureof
theclimateandsoilbutalwayslocatesthemwithinaculturalspace,wheretraditions,communitycustoms,spiritualandreligiousaspects
andculinarypreparationplayafundamentalanddominantrole.Allthisonceagainbringsustotheconceptofnarrativeasabasic
elementinthedefinitionofquality.
Indefiningaplacewedonotconsiderpoliticalborders,whichhavelittlelinktolocalcultures,butratherspecificenvironmental
conditionsandthehistoryofthelocalpeople.
Dependingonthecase,thepertinentareacanbeextremelycircumscribed(aregion,anisland,thecourseofariver,etc.)oritcanbe
transnational,coveringtwoormoremodernstates.
Todefinethelinkwithplace,wecanstartwithtwomacro-categories:productsoriginallyfromAfricaandproductsoriginallyfromother
partsoftheworldbutwhichhavetraditionallybeenfoundinAfrica
1 - Products originally from Africa
AmongthethousandsofedibleplantspeciesthathavefedAfricaoverthepastfewcenturies,someoriginatefromthiscontinent,strictly
speaking.
ThehighplateausofEthiopiaandYemengaveuscoffee.TropicalWestAfricaisthehomeofAfricanrice(oryzaglaberrima),palmoil,
yams,cowpeas,Bambaragroundnuts,blacktamarind,etc.WatermelonsmayhaveoriginatedintheKalahariDesert(wheretheystillgrow
naturally,aswellasinBotswana,SouthAfricaandLesotho).IthasbeenrecordedashavingbeengrowninAncientEgyptmorethan5000
yearsago.
Itisimportanttonotethat,onceagain,wearenotsimplyinterestedinthetypeandthespecies.Insteadwewanttoinvestigatefurther
andunderstandhowtheydifferentiatedthemselvesintovarietiesandecotypesfollowingselectionandcharacterizationprocesses,their
adaptationtotheplaceanddifferentcultivation,farmingandprocessingtechniques.
Localvariety:plantpopulations,generallygeneticallyheterogeneous,normallydevelopedthroughtraditionalagricultureovermanyyears
(orevencenturies)bybeingselectedbyfarmersandadaptedspecificallytolocalconditions.
2 - Products originally from other parts of the world but which have traditionally been found in Africa
Someproductswhichoriginatefromotherpartsoftheworld(Asia,LatinAmerica,etc.)havetraditionallybeengrowninAfricaandareof
interestwhenconsideringseveralofthecriterialinkedtoquality.Productsbroughtinsuchasmaize,cocoa,cassava,bananasandginger
havesometimesbecomeanintegralpartofthelocalecosystemandAfricahassomeinterestingsecondarybiodiversitycentersforsome
ofthem.
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TheproductsintroducedsuccessivelytoAfricathroughcomplexandextremelyinfluentialhistoricalphenomena(migrationofpeople,
theslavetrade,colonialism,etc.)becomeinterestingwhentheytakeontheirownphenotypicalandgenotypicalcharacteristics,linkedto
particularplaces,astheresultofadaptationprocessesofvaryingduration.Thankstolocalenvironmentalandanthropicpressure,these
productshavecreatedspecificbreeds,populationsandecotypes,closelylinkedtothelocalcultureoftheindigenouspeople.
Takingthesetwocategoriesasastartingpoint,itispossibletoidentifyalocalproductanddefineitslinkwiththelandonlyby
interweavingenvironmentalaspectswiththehistorical,culturalandsocialvaluesindicatedbelow.
Selection criterion II – HISToRY and CulTuRe: how a product was created or arrived, what cultural links it has to the local communities and how it can reinforce social cohesion.
Qualitylocalproductsareanintegralpartofthehistoryandcultureofcommunities.
Asaresulttheyplayaroleinlocalgastronomyandcrafts,inritualsandinlanguage.
Itisthereforefundamentaltoanalyzealloftheseaspects:toidentifyanddescribethetraditionalcultivation,farming,fishingor
processingtechniques;tocollecttraditionalrecipes;tounderstandthemeaningoftheproductswithinthespiritualandculturallifeof
thecommunity(feasts,rites,ceremonies,fables,myths,etc.);andtocollectthedifferentnamesfortheproductandobjectslinkedtoit
(containers,utensils,etc.).
AccordingtoDogonmythology,Amma,thecreatureoftheuniverse,createditthroughtheexplosionofagrainoffonioinsidean«eggof
theworld».
Itisgenerallyeasiertoidentifyacircumscribedproductionareaincasesinvolvingahistoricalandtraditionalfoodproductthatundergoes
processing.
Someexamples:saltedmilletcouscousfromFadiouthIslandinSenegal;KoinaduguhoneyfromtheforestedregioninnorthernSierra
Leone;whiteWukrohoneyinEthiopia,whoseparticularsensorycharacteristicsarelinkedtotheflowersthatgrowinthearidandrocky
Tigrayregion;reedsaltfromthe‘NzoiaRiverinKenya;theTouaregcheesetchikomartfromMali.
FormanyyearsSlowFoodhasbeenuncoveringthelinkbetweenfood,agriculture,culture,social cohesion and conviviality.The
consumptionoflocalproductsandmaintainingtraditionalfarmingexpertisehasastrongsocialdimensionthatcontributestotheunityof
acommunity.Workonindetifyingqualitylocalproductsshouldhighlightthisaspect.
Example:Small-scaleprocessingofsheabutterinWestAfricaandarganinMoroccoislongandhardworkcarriedoutbywomen.The
wholeprocessisdonetotherhythmofthesongsthesewomensinghandeddownfromgenerationtogeneration.Therhythmofthework
isonewiththatofthemusic.
Selection criterion III – TASTe and NuTRITIoNAl CHARACTeRISTICS
Taste
Onecriterionthatcanexplainthequalityofaproductisitssensoryproperties:aninterestingproductfromaqualityaspectisaproduct
thatconsumersconsidertobe“good”.Thesensorypropertiesofafoodproductaredefinedbyits:
•appearance
•color
•texture(liquid,solid,crunchy,juicy,tender,greasy)
•smell
•taste(sweet,salty,bitter,acidic)
InWestAfrica,localvarietiesofrice,evenwhentheyarelessproductivethanimprovedvarietiesorimportedvarietiessuchasAsianrice,
areoftenpreferredbyconsumerswhofindthembetterorthatthetextureisbetteradaptedtotheirtraditionalrecipes.Inmanyrural
communities,evenwhentheimprovedvarietiesaregrownforcommercialpurposes,localvarietiescontinuetobecultivatedfordomestic
consumption.
ThecomparativetastingofdifferentsamplesofpalmoilfromGuinea-Bissau(conductedbylocalandinternationaltasters)revealedan
extraordinaryrangeofdifferentcolors,consistencies,flavors,aromasandfragrances.Thecolorsoftheoilsamplestastedrangedfromred
toorange,andtheyshowedaconsiderableolfactorycomplexity,releasingscentsthatrecalledtomatopureeandexoticfruitaswellas
morerefinednotesofspicesandbittersauce.Inthemouth,theoilsshowedafinedelicacyandsweetnesswithaslighttendencytowards
bitterorsmokyandwithnotesofcacao.Thesedifferencescomefromdifferentfactors:productionarea,palmvariety,ripenessofthe
kernels,processingtimesandtechniques,etc.
Nutritional characteristic
ManytraditionalAfricanproductshaveconsiderablenutritional properties.
AgriculturalpoliciesinmanyAfricancountries(mostlyimposedbyinternationalfinancialorganizations),gearedtowardscashcropsand
theimportoffoodstuffs,haveledtostandardizedeatingbehaviorandimpoverisheddiets,particularlyinurbanareas.InmanyAfrican
countries,poorqualityl”Frenchbaguette”,Chinesefruitjuicefullofsugarandadditives,brokenAmericanrice,Europeanpastamade
withrefinedflour,Asianchickenraisedonhormonesandantibiotics,etc.areslowlyreplacingthewonderfuldishesbasedonlocalcereals,
vegetables,fruit,meatandfish.Thisphenomenon,tiedintoaparticulareconomiccontext,isalsopromotedbythefascinationwith
particularwesternculturalmodels;thisfascinationresultsintraditionalproductsbeingassociatedwithbeing“backwards”.Contraryto
manyofthestereotypesportrayedaboutAfrica,inhabitantsofurbanareascouldthusbeatgreaterriskofmalnutritionandnutritional
deficienciesthanthoselivingruralandforestareas.Ithasbeenshownthatdiabetes,obesityandheartdiseasesareconstantlygrowingin
urbanareasindevelopingcountries.
ManyAfricancereals,vegetablesandfruithaveahigh protein, vitamin and mineral content.
Onehundredgramsofmoringacontainsthesameamountofproteinasaglassofmilkoranegg,moreironthan100gofbeefandas
muchvitaminCasanorange.Fonioisknownforitshighessentialaminoacidscontent(methionineandcysteine).Kernelsfromthefruit
ofBalanitesaegyptiaca,atreepresentfromSenegaltoSudan,havea20to30%proteincontentand30to60%ofoilsrichinessential
fattyacids.Cowpeas,eateninsauce,containmorethan200%oftherecommendeddailydoseofvitaminA.
Otherphyto-elementswithanti-oxidant, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, fungicidal properties,etc.havealsobeenidentifiedinmany
traditionalAfricanproducts.
Selection criterion IV – eNVIRoNMeNTAl SuSTAINABIlITY: vocation of land, sustainability of farming techniques.
Inidentifyingqualitylocalproducts,itisimportanttoconsidertheirenvironmentalvalue.
Farmingtechniquesmustpreservesoil fertilityandhydrographicecosystems,avoidingasmuchaspossibletheuseofchemicalsubstances
andmaintainingtraditionalagrarian landscapes.Agriculturalsystemsandprocessingsitesmustsafeguardtheagricultural landscape
andtraditionalarchitecture.Intensivemonocultures(evenwhenappliedtotraditionalvarietiesandecotypes)areexcluded,asareintensive
animalfarming,unsustainablefishingtechniquesand,asmentionedabove,industrialandgeneticallymodifiedproducts.
Itisworthwhilelistinglocalvarietiesandstocksaslargegenetic diversity ensurestheresilienceofthesevarietiesinthelongterm,
particularlytodiseasesandenvironmentalpressuressuchashostileclimateconditions.
Fonio,oneoftheoldestindigenouscerealsinWestAfricagrowseasilyinerodedlateriticsoilandprovidesa“fallback”formany
communitybeforetheharvestofthemaincrops(rice,millet,etc.).
Selection criterion V – SoCIAl SuSTAINABIlITY: the role of local populations and the ethicality of the production and distribution system.
Onecriterionforselectingproductsislinkedtosocial fairness.
Theproductsbeingconsideredmustbemadebycommunitiesofsmall-scaleproducers.Individualproducersmusthaveanactiverolein
runningthefarmorbusiness.Wedonottakeintoconsiderationhiredfarmersorherders.Producersmustbeopentocollaboration,either
organized(associations,cooperatives,consortia)orinformal.Thecommunityofproducersmustavoidformsofdiscriminationlinkedto
socialposition,nationality,gender,politicalandreligiousbeliefandethnicorigins.Theexploitationofchildlaborisnotallowed.
Selection criterion VI – untapped and undeveloped PoTeNTIAl to contribute to FooD SoVeReIGNTY
Qualityproductsshouldbeunderstoodasthosewhichhaveanuntappedandundevelopedpotentialtocontributetothefoodsovereignty
ofacountry,regionorcommunity.
Foodsovereigntyistherightofpeoplestohealthyandculturallyappropriatefoodproducedthroughecologicallysoundandsustainable
methods,andtheirrighttodefinetheirownfoodandagriculturesystems.Thisconceptsupplementsthatoffoodsecuritywhich,according
totheFAO,exists“whenallpeopleatalltimeshavephysicalandeconomicaccesstosufficient,safe,nutritiousfoodtomeettheirenergy
needsandfoodpreferencestomaintainahealthyandactivelife.”
Africaisrichinfoodproductswhichcouldsupportafoodsovereigntystrategywhichcombinesbiodiversity,socialcohesionandhealth.
Nonetheless,thispotentialisnotonlyunderestimatedinpublichealthpoliciesbutisbecomingincreasinglyat riskduetothephenomena
ofculturalintegration,theinvasionofpoor-qualityfoodproductsimportedatlowprices,andsometimesarmedconflict.Whenindexing
theseproducts,suchriskshouldbeidentifiedanddescribed.
Néréseeds(parkiabiglobosa)areboiled,fermentedandused,mixedwithokra(hibiscusesculentus)tomakeaverypopularseasoning
inmanyWestAfricancountiescalledsoumbala.Parkiabiglobosaisanindigenoustreeinsahelianandsudanianareas.Itcontainsmany
high-qualitynutrients(proteins,fats,carbohydrates,iodine,variousvitamins).Allthesame,soumbalaiscurrentlythreatenedbythe
invasionofMaggistockcubes,producedbyNestlé.
InSierraLeone,thewarputanendtotheexpertskillofnearlyawholegenerationofpeoplewhocouldpreparecolanuts,whichoriginate
inthiscountry.
pRoducts categoRies
•Indexedproductscouldincludefruit,vegetables, cereals, meat (livestock), fish, medicinal plantsorevenscented plants and
spices.
Africahasalargeshareofdifferentdomesticanimals.Itishometothemostprevalentdomesticspecies(cows,sheep,goats,pigs,horses,
donkeys,camels)withoutforgettingpoultry(chicken,guineafowl,ducks,turkey,geese)andsomerodents(rabbitsandgrass-cutters).
Therearesome400speciesofknowndomesticanimalsinAfrica.Someofthesespecieshavebeenstudiedbutmanyhaveonlybeenthe
subjectofverylittleinvestigation.
•Thisconcernsbothproductstakendirectlyfromthesavannah,forests,lakes,riversandseas,andproductsthathavebeencultivatedor
bred(livestock).
Wildresources(herbs,leaves,berries,fruits,honey,fish)stillplayanimportantroleintheeverydaydietinAfricaandhavecontributedto
thedevelopmentofpopulationsandthetraditionsthatstillcharacterizethemtoday.Spontaneouslygrowingplantssuchaswildcereals
haverepresentedandstilltodaymayrepresentanotablecontributiontothediversityandfoodsovereigntyofacommunity.
OntheoutskirtsoftheSaharaDesert,cramcram(Cenchrusbiflorus),athornygraminaceousplantcontainingagrainrichinprotein,
producesrealharvestsandisveryappreciatedbytheTuaregs.
•Thereisinterestinproductswhichareconsumedintheirrawformaswellasproductswhichhavebeentransformed(suchascowpea
couscous).
Processingtechniquesareaheritageofinestimablevaluetolocalcommunities.Theyaretheresultofwisdompasseddownfrom
generationtogeneration,developedtopreservefoods(milk,fruits,leaves,flowers).Artisanalprocessingoffoodgivestherawmaterials
animportantaddedvaluebecauseitresultsintheproductionofparticularproductsthatcannarratealocalculture,andbecauseitmakes
producerslessdependentonseasonalcyclesandmarketfluctuations.Oftenitispossibletoprotectlocalecotypesandbreedsonlyif
domesticconsumptioncanbejoinedbythemarketingoffoodproductssuitedtotrade(localandnational)andabletobringinasmall
income.
TherearetwoissuesparticularlylinkedtoprocessedfoodproductsinAfrica.Ontheonehand,itisessentialtorecuperate,safeguard
andpromoteexistingtraditionaltechniques.Ontheother,itisnecessarytoencouragetheprocessingofrawmaterials,evenwhenthe
procedureisnotpartoftraditionalcustom.ThroughouttheAfricancontinentfoodistraditionallycollectedandcookedorsoldfresh,and
thepresenceofprocessedfoodproducts(usuallyproducedtostorefoodsforlonger,transportthemmoreeasilyandsellthem)isstill
marginal.AsinvastpartsofAsia,thehabitofcookingandsellingready-madefoodtoeatonthestreetisconsiderablymorecommon.
Ithasbeenwidelyobservedthaturbanizationhascausedtheuprootingofmanyfamiliesfromtheirruralzonesoforigin,witharesulting
partialdetachmentfromthepreparationtechniqueslinkedtotraditionalfoodcultures.Insteadtherehasbeenashifttotheconsumption
oflow-qualityindustrialproducts.Manycitiesarealsohometopeopleofahighersocioeconomicstatuswhobuyqualityprocessed
foodproductsproducedintheWest.EvenwhentherawmaterialsareAfrican(argan,cacao,peanuts,etc.),oftentheprocessingisdone
elsewhere,especiallyinEurope.Itisveryimportanttobothsafeguardtraditionalproductsandpromotethelocalproductionofnew
productsusinglocalrawmaterials.Additionally,someprocessingtechniques(suchaspre-cookinggrains,slicingleaves,dryingand
processingfruitsandvegetables,e.g.Dogononions)canfacilitateandsafeguardtheconsumptionofproductsthatwouldotherwise
requirelongandcomplexpreparation.
Whennotraditionalprocessedfoodproductisfoundduringthemappingwork,itisnecessarytohavealengthydiscussionwithproducers
tounderstandwhatproductswouldbethemostusefulandeasytoproduce,packageandsellonthelocalandnationalmarket.
Kenya’sLarepumpkinisaninterestingecotypebecauseofitshardiness,andaboveallitsversatility.Thefleshcanbeusedtomakea
flour,whichwhenmixedwithwheatflourcanbeusedtoprepareflatbreadscalledchapati,donut-likemandaziandajuice.Theseedsare
goodtoastedorboiled,andoncedriedtheycanbegroundandusedtomakeporridgeandsomemedicines.Thiswholefamilyofproducts
meansthatthispumpkinnotonlyplaysanimportantroleindomesticconsumption,butalsothatitcanbeaninterestingsourceof
incomeforthewomen,whocansellthevariousproductsyear-roundinnearbytownsortoschools.
•Theremaybeinterestinthewholeproductorapartofit.Forexample,watermelonleaves,whichareconsumedinsomecountries,
shouldbeconsidered.Cowpealeaveswiththeirhighcalciumcontentareanotherexample.
•Industrially-produced,geneticallymodified,importedorrecently(afewdecades)introducedproducedarenotconsidered.
FINAl NoTe
As is clear from this document, the Slow Food approach to quality is complex and multilayered, the result of a constant
exchange of information with numerous local actors (producers, cooks, experts, researchers, journalists, etc.). None of the
criteria listed above can be given priority over the others.
V. ListofproducerspresentintheSalonedelGusto2010
Annex
senegalMalickSow(agronomist,FédérationdesAssociationsPaysannesdeLouga)
JacquesNdong,MamadouSarr,AnnaNdiaye(productorsofsaltedcoucous)
guinea bissauCristinaNaFala(palmoilartisan)
LeandroPintoJunior(agronomistCOAJOQ)
OrlandoVaz(horticulturist)
maliDiacaridiaDIarra(PresidentConfédérationNationaledesOrganisationsPaysannes)
AlmahdiAlansari(Touaregherder)
sieRRa leoneHajaSunduMarrah(BushTeaBushproducer)
AbuBakerrKanu(BushTeaBushproducer)
JohnKamar(beekeepeer)
VI. ListofparticipantstothepostTerraMadreSeminar
Annex
senegalMadiengSeck(journalistspecialisedinfoodissues)
OumarDIeme(InstitutdesTechnologiesAlimentaires)
MalickSow(agronomist,FédérationdesAssociationsPaysannesdeLouga)
guinea bissauMigueldeBarros(researcherTininguena)
NelsonVeiraTavares(agronomistTininguena)
CristinaNaFala(palmoilartisan)
LeandroPintoJunior(agronomistCOAJOQ)
OrlandoVaz(horticulturist)
maliMoussaBtomaMalle(IRPAD)
DiacaridiaDIarra(PresidentConfédérationNationaledesOrganisationsPaysannes)
sieRRa leonePeterBayukuKonteh(Governor)
JosephTholley(Universityprofessor,agronomist)
ShedJah(PresidentWorldWideOpportunitiesonOrganicFarmsSierraLeone)
VII. Awarenessraisingmaterialontheprojectexposedduring theSalonedelgusto2010
Annex
80x200cm