Monday, May 1, 2023

1

STUDY ON PROTEIN FIBER

Prepared By: Engr. Kazi Zakaria Ahmed

Lecturer, Department of Garments & Textile Engineering

BCMC College of Engineering & Technology, Jessore.E-mail: engr.kazizakriabcmc@gmail.com

Contact Info: +88 01925-485428/ +88 01754-424949

LECTURE-1

Monday, May 1, 2023

2

Prepared For:B.Sc. In Textile EngineeringStudents of Garments & Textile Engineering Department

Monday, May 1, 2023

3

THE NATURAL HAIR GROWTH OF CERTAIN ANIMALS AND ARE COMPOSED OF PROTEIN.

PROTEIN -Any o f a c lass o f n i t rogenous o rgan ic compounds that cons is t o f l a rge mo lecu les composed o f one o r more long cha ins o f amino ac ids and a re an essent ia l par t o f a l l l i v ing o rgan isms, espec ia l ly as s t ructura l components o f body t i ssues such as musc le , ha i r e tc .

WOOL

Monday, May 1, 2023

4

WHERE ARE WOOL GET FROM???

Wool is the textile fiber obtained from sheep and certain other animals, including cashmere from goats, mohair from goats, other types of wool from camelids.

Wool has several qualities that distinguish it from hair or fur: it is crimped, it is elastic, and it grows in staples (clusters)

Monday, May 1, 2023

5

CHARACTERISTICS

The amount of crimp corresponds to the fineness of the wool fibers. A fine wool like Merino may have up to 100 crimps per inch, while the coarser wools like karakul may have as few as one or two. In contrast, hair has little if any scale and no crimp, and little ability to bind into yarn. On sheep, the hair part of the fleece is called kemp. The relative amounts of kemp to wool vary from breed to breed and make some fleeces more desirable for spinning, felting, or carding into batts for quilts or other insulating products, including the famous tweed cloth of Scotland.

Wool fibers readily absorb moisture, but are not hollow. Wool can absorb almost one-third of its own weight in water. Wool absorbs sound like many other fabrics. It is generally a creamy white color, although some breeds of sheep produce natural colors, such as black, brown, silver, and random mixes.

Monday, May 1, 2023

6

QUALITY

Merino wool is typically 3–5 inches in length and is very fine (between 12 and 24 microns).The finest and most valuable wool comes from Merino hoggets. Wool taken from sheep produced for meat is typically more coarse, and has fibers 1.5 to 6 in (38 to 152 mm) in length. Damage or breaks in the wool can occur if the sheep is stressed while it is growing its fleece, resulting in a thin spot where the fleece is likely to break.

Monday, May 1, 2023

7•WOOL GREASE : 2 -25% OF GREASY WOOL WEIGHT•SUINT : 2 -12% OF GREASY WOOL WEIGHT•DIRT : 5 -45% OF GREASY WOOL WEIGHTNOTE:F INE WOOL FROM MARINO SHEEP USED APPAREL , TYP ICALLY CONTAINS 13% WOOL GREASE.COARSER WOOL USED FOR CARPETS CONTAINS AN AVERAGE OF ABOUT 5% GREASE.THE NATURAL GREASE OF THE WOOL OF SHEEP, CONSISTING OF A MIXTURE OF FATTY MATTER AND POTASSIUM SALTS, USED AS A SOURCE OF POTASH AND IN THE PREPARATION OF OINTMENTS.

COMPOSITION OF RAW WOOL

Monday, May 1, 2023

8

KERATIN : 33%GREASE : 28%SUINT : 12%

IMPURITIES : 26%MINERAL WATER : 01%

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF WOOL FIBER

Monday, May 1, 2023

9

WOOL CONTAINS SOME SPECIAL PROTEIN LIKE KERATIN. MAIN CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF

WOOL.

CARBON : 50%HYDROGEN : 12%OXYGEN : 10%NITROGEN : 25%SULFUR : 03%

CHEMICAL COMPOSITON OF KERATIN

Monday, May 1, 2023

10

PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL

Monday, May 1, 2023

11

PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL

Monday, May 1, 2023

12

PHYSICAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL

Monday, May 1, 2023

13Description

CuticleOn the outside of the wool fiber is a protective layer of scales called cuticle cells. They overlap like tiles on a roof. The exposed edges of the cells face away from the root end so there’s more friction when you rub the fiber in one direction than the other. This helps wool expel dirt and gives it the ability to felt. Wool felts when fibers are aligned in opposite directions and they become entangled.The scales have a waxy coating chemically bound to the surface. This stops water penetrating the fiber but allows absorption of water vapor. This makes wool water-repellent and resistant to water-based stains.CortexThe cortex – the internal cells - make up 90% of the fiber. There are 2 main types of cortical cells – ortho-cortical and para-cortical. Each has a different chemical composition. In finer fibers, these two types of cells form in two distinct halves. The cells expand differently when they absorb moisture, making the fiber bend - this creates the crimp in wool. In coarser fibers, the para-cortical and ortho-cortical cells form more randomly so there’s less crimp.

Fiber crimp makes wool feel springy and provides insulation by trapping air.

Monday, May 1, 2023

14Description

Cortical cellThe cortical cells are surrounded and held together by a cell membrane complex, acting similarly to mortar holding bricks together in a wall.The cell membrane complex contains proteins and waxy lipids and runs through the whole fiber. The molecules in this region have fairly weak intermolecular bonds, which can break down when exposed to continued abrasion and strong chemicals.The cell membrane complex allows easy uptake of dye molecules.Macro-fibrilInside the cortical cells are long filaments called macro-fibrils. These are made up of bundles of even finer filaments called micro-fibrils, which are surrounded by a matrix region.MatrixThe matrix consists of high sulphur proteins. This makes wool absorbent because sulphur atoms attract water molecules. Wool can absorb up to 30% of its weight in water and can also absorb and retain large amounts of dye. This region is also responsible for wool’s fire-resistance and anti-static properties.

Monday, May 1, 2023

15Description

Micro-fibrilWithin the matrix area, there are embedded smaller units called micro-fibrils. The micro-fibrils in the matrix are rather like the steel rods embedded in reinforced concrete to give strength and flexibility. The micro-fibrils contain pairs of twisted molecular chains.

Twisted molecular chain and helical coilWithin the twisted molecular chains are protein chains that are coiled in a helical shape much like a spring. This structure is stiffened by hydrogen bonds and disulphide bonds within the protein chain. They link each coil of the helix, helping to prevent it stretching. The helical coil – the smallest part of the fiber gives wool its flexibility, elasticity and resilience, which helps wool fabric keep its shape and remain wrinkle-free in use.

Monday, May 1, 2023

16

CHEMICAL STRUCTURE OF WOOL

Monday, May 1, 2023

17

IN ADDITION TO CARBON, HYDROGEN, OXYGEN AND NITROGEN IT ALSO CONTAINS SULPHUR. THE AMINO-ACIDS PRESENT IN WOOL ARE MAINLY BULKY, WHILE SILK HAS CHIEFLY SMALL AMINO-ACIDS. DUE TO THIS WOOL IS RELATIVELY AMORPHOUS. THE POLYMER SYSTEM OF WOOL IS HIGHLY AMORPHOUS THAT IS 75%

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOL

Monday, May 1, 2023

18

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOL Color : The color of wool fiber could be white, near white, brown and

black. Tensile strength : The T.S of wool in dry condition is 1-1.7 and in wet

condition 0.8-1.6 Elongation at break : Standard elongation is 25-35% & 25-50% in wet

condition. Elastic Recovery : Good. Specific Gravity : 1.3-1.32 Moisture Regain : Standard 16-18% Resiliency : Excellent. Luster : Luster of course fiber is higher than fine fiber. Effect of Heat : wool becomes weak of heat. It softness when heated or

treated with boiling water for long time. At 130 degree celsius it decomposes and chars at 300 degree celsius. Does not continue to burn when it is removed from a flame.

Effect of Sun Light : The main chemical components of wool decomposes under the action of sun light. The sulphur in wool is converted into H2SO4. The fibers become discolored and develop a harsh feel.

Monday, May 1, 2023

19

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOL

Effect of acids : Concentrated acids damage it since they hydrolyze the salt linkages and hydrogen bonds. Dilute acids do not affect it.

Effect of alkali : It easily dissolves in alkaline solutions. Alkalis hydrolyze the disulphide bonds; hydrogen bonds and salt linkages of wool and cause the polymers to separate from each other, which is looked as dissolution of the fiber. Hydrolysis of the peptide bonds of wool polymers lead to polymer fragmentation and total destruction of the strand. Prolonged exposure to alkalis causes hydrolysis of the peptide bonds of wool polymers lead to polymer fragmentation and total destruction of the fiber.

Effect of bleach : Chlorine bleach is ordinary harmful to the wool. KMnO4, Na2O2 are utilized for bleaching.

Monday, May 1, 2023

20

CHEMICAL PROPERTIES OF WOOL

Effect of Organic solvent: Wool doesn’t affect in organic solvents.

Effect of Insects: Wool affected by insects. Effect of Micro Organism: It affected by mildew if it remains

wet for long time. Dyeing Ability: wool fiber could be dyed by basic dye, direct

dye and acid dye.

Monday, May 1, 2023

21

GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION OF MAIN WOOL PRODUCING COUNTRIES

24%

15%13%8%

3%2%3%

32%

Australia ChinaNew Zealand CISArgentina South AfricaUruguay Others

47%

26%

8%

7%5% 6%

EuropeNorth AmericaAsiasouth AfricaAfricaOceania

Monday, May 1, 2023

22 AUSTRALIA: 25% OF GLOBAL WOOL CHINA: 18% UNITED STATES: 17% NEW ZEALAND: 11% ARGENTINA: 3% TURKEY: 2%  IRAN: 2% UNITED KINGDOM: 2%  INDIA: 2% SUDAN: 2% SOUTH AFRICA: 1%

PRODUCTION

Monday, May 1, 2023 23

TOP WOOL IMPORTERS OF THE WORLD1. CHINA2. United kingdom3. India4. Germany5. Italy6. Japan7. U.S8. Czech republic9. France10. Greece11. Hong Kong12. Malaysia13. Mexico14. Nepal15. Netherland16. Spain17. South Korea18. Taiwan19. Thailand20. Turkey

Monday, May 1, 2023 24

TOP WOOL EXPORTERS OF THE WORLD

Australia.New ZealandEuropeArgentinaSouth AfricaUruguayThe United StatesRussian FederationIranMoroccoIndia

Monday, May 1, 2023

25

WOOL SHEARING

Shearing should happen at least once a year and asearly in spring as possible Sheep can be sheared prior to lambing to make iteasier, or they can be crutched out Shearing is a specialized skill and its hard work, butanyone can learn how to shear Fun facts:• Sheep shearers can shear a sheep in under a minute• World recorders: sheep: 38 secs lamb: 19.8 secs• Bioclip: Australian wool harvest technology, a way of removingfleece without shearingInvented in 1994, inject sheep with Special hormone ,then wrap them in tight hairnets, Three weeks later the fleece can be peeled off

Monday, May 1, 2023

26

WOOL TYPES

Different Types of Wool :

Fine wool Medium Wool. Long breeds wool Cross breeds wool Carpet wool

Classification of Wool By flees : Normal wool.--------------- ( 6 to 8 years of sheep ) Hagget wool ----------------( 12 to 14 years of sheep) Pulled wool -----------------( 15-16 years of sheep) Cotty wool ------------------( very low quality sheep) Tag lock wool --------------( Discolor sheep ) Dead wool ----------------- ( Nearly dead sheep) Weather wool --------------( Collecting after one collection)

Monday, May 1, 2023 27

WOOL CLASSING Wool is classed according to characteristics- Range: breed – half breed, crossbred, merino; age - lamb, hogget, ewe; category - bellies, pieces, fleece; quality – micron, yield, length; grade - color, vegetable matter, tenderness, other faults.

Classification of WoolThe quality of wool fibers produced is based on the breeding conditions, the weather, food, general care etc. For example, excessive moisture dries out natural grease. Similarly the cold weather produces harder and heavier fibers. The wool could be classified in two different ways:By sheep from which it is obtained

By fleece Classification by Sheep

Monday, May 1, 2023 28

WOOL CLASSINGThe wool is classified according to the sheep from which it is

sheared as given below:

Merino Wool: Merino sheep originated in Spain yields the best quality wool. These fibers are strong, fine and elastic fiber which is relatively short, ranging from 1 to 5 inches (25 – 125 mm).

Among the different wool fibers, merino wool has the greatest amount of crimp and has maximum number of scales. These two factors contribute to its superior warmth and spinning qualities.

Merino is used for the best types of wool clothing. Class – Two Wool: This class of sheep originates from England,

Scotland, Ireland and Wales. The fibers are comparatively strong, fine, and elastic and range from 2 to 8 inches (50 – 200mm) in length.

They have a large number of scales per inch and have good crimp.

Monday, May 1, 2023 29

WOOL CLASSING Class – Three Wool: This class of sheep originates from

United Kingdom. The fibers are coarser and have fewer scales and less crimp when compared to earlier varieties of wool fibers and are about 4 to 18 inches long.

They are smoother, and are more lustrous. These wool are less elastic and resilient. They are of good quality, used for clothing. Class – Four Wool: This class is a group of mongrel

sheep sometimes referred to as half-breed. The fibers are about 1 to 16 inches (25 – 400 mm) long, are coarse and hair like, and have relatively few scales and little crimp.

The fibers are smoother and more lustrous. This wool is less desirable, with the least elasticity and

strength. It is used mainly for carpets, rugs, and inexpensive low-grade clothing.

Monday, May 1, 2023 30

WOOL CLASSING Classification by Fleece

Shearing, is the process by which the woolen fleece of a sheep is removed. Sheep are generally shorn of their fleeces in the spring, but the time of shearing varies in different parts of the world. Sheep are not washed before shearing. They are sometimes dipped into an antiseptic bath as prescribed by law. The classification by fleece is as follows:

Lamb’s Wool: The fleece obtained by shearing the lamb of six to eight months old for the first time is known as lamb’s wool. It is also referred to as fleece wool, or first clip. As the fiber has not been cut, it has a natural, tapered end that gives it a softer feel.

Hogget Wool: Hogget wool is the one obtained from sheep about twelve to fourteen months old that have not been previously shorn. The fiber is fine, soft, resilient, and mature, and has tapered ends. These are primarily used for warp yarns.

Wether Wool: Wether wool is the one obtained from the sheep older than fourteen months. The shearing is not done for the first time and in fact these fleeces are obtained after the first shearing. These fleeces contain much soil and dirt.

Monday, May 1, 2023

31

WOOL CLASSING

Pulled Wool: Pulled wool is taken from animals originally slaughtered for meat. The wool is pulled from the pelt of the slaughtered sheep using various chemicals. The fibers of pulled wool are of low quality and produce a low-grade cloth.

Dead Wool: This is the wool obtained from the sheep that have died of age or accidentally killed. This type of wool fiber known should not be confused for pulled wool. Dead wool fiber is decidedly inferior in grade; it is used in low-grade cloth.

Cotty Wool: This type of wool is obtained from the sheep that are exposed to severe weather. As discussed; the severe weather conditions hamper the qualities of the fleece obtained. The cotty wool is of a poor grade and is hard and brittle.

Tag locks: The torn, ragged, or discolored parts of a fleece are known as tag locks. These are usually sold separately as an inferior grade of wool.

Monday, May 1, 2023

32

Sorting the Merino fleece: 

The merino sheep produces the finest of all wools, and the fleece has been finely graded by Dr. Bowman in this manner – Shoulders: The wools grown on these parts are commonly the best in the fleece, being specially strong and long in staple, soft in texture and uniform in character.

Sides: Same as shoulders. Lower part of back: This is also wool of good, sound quality,

resembling in staple that obtained from the shoulders and sides, but not so soft and fine in fibre.

Loin and back: The staple here is comparatively shorter and the hair not so fine, but the wool on the whole is of a true character. In some cases, however, it is rather tender.

Upper parts of legs: Wool from these parts is of a moderate length but coarse in fibre, and is disposed to hang in loose, open locks. It is generally sound, but liable to contain some vegetable matter.

Monday, May 1, 2023

33

Sorting the Merino fleece

Upper portion of neck: The staple of the wool clipped from this part of the neck is wholly of an inferior quality, being faulty and irregular in growth, as well as full of thorns, twigs, grass, and other matters.

Central part of back: This wool closely resembles that obtained from the loins and back, and is rather tender.

Belly: This is the wool grown on the under parts of the sheep, between the fore and hind legs. It is short, dirty and poor in quality, and somewhat tender.

Root of tail: Fibre coarse, short and glossy, and very often the wool is mixed with kemps or dead hairs.

Lower parts of legs: Most of the wool grown on these parts is dirty, greasy, and rough, the staple lacking curliness and the fibre fineness. It is usually full of burrs and vegetable matters.

Head: The wools from the part is stiff, straight, coarse, mixed with fodder and kempy.

Throat: Same as head. Chest: Same as head. Shins: The wool from the shins is short, straight and stiff and of small textile

value

Monday, May 1, 2023 34

END USES Wool fabric is used for all kinds of

clothing, couch covers, bedspreads, toilet covers, tablecloths and more.

Boots Carpet Blankets Sweaters Coats Seat covers etc.

Monday, May 1, 2023 35

SOURCES & TYPES OF ANIMAL FIBER

Animal-based fiber Chiengora -Dog Yak -Yak Heavy, Rabbit- Rabbits Wool -Sheep Cashmere wool -Indian cashmere goat Mohair wool -North African angora goat Camel hair Arabian  -South America camelid

varieties Angora wool-Angora rabbit Silk -Silk worm Alpaca- Alpaca

Monday, May 1, 2023

36

THANKS FOR YOUR ATTENTION

…..to be continued [ You may follow different reference]