Quality

• Meeting or Exceeding Customer Expectations• Meeting or Conforming to Specifications• Absence of Variation• Degree to which a set of inherent characteristics fulfils

requirements. (ISO [ANSI/ISO/ASQ Q 9000-2005])• Fitness for Use: takes into account product design, Features,

as well as workmanship

Quality approaches• Two Aspects of Quality: Objective and SubjectiveMeaning of Quality Based on:• Product: a precise and measurable variable• User/customer :quality is whatever the customer says or

wants• Manufacturers: meeting specifications, conformance to

requirements, etc.• Value: cost or price of a product or service

Quality dimensions

• Features• Performance• Reliability• Conformance• Durability• Serviceability• Aesthetics• Perceived quality

Juran Trilogy ;Quality Planning

• QP; stems from a unity of purpose that spans all functions of an organization

• Quality Planning involves– Identifying customers, both internal and external– Determining their needs– Specifying the product features that satisfy those

needs at minimum cost.– Designing the processes that can reliably produce

those features.– Proving that the process can achieve its goals under

operating conditions.

Juran Trilogy ;Quality Control

• The process of managing operations to meet quality goals:

• Quality Control involves:– Choosing control subjects– Choosing units of measurement– Establishing a measurement procedure– Measuring– Interpreting differences between measurement and

goal– Taking action to correct significant differences

Juran Trilogy; Quality Improvement

• Assuming the process is under control, any waste that occurs must be inherent in the design of the process

• Objective; to reduce chronic waste to a much lower level• The steps in Quality Improvement:

– Prove the need for improvement– Identify specific projects /tasks /activities for improvement– Organize to guide the projects/activities– Organize for diagnosis -- discovery of causes– Diagnose the causes– Provide remedies– Prove that the remedies are effective under operating

conditions– Provide control to maintain the gains.

Juran: Costs of Quality

• Prevention costs• Appraisal costs• Internal failure costs• External failure costs

Juran’s Philosophies

• Definition(fitness for use) • Mostly similar philosophy to Deming• Evolutionary rather than Revolutionary• Adapting the existing management system than instituting a

new system• 80% or more of defects in a system are management

controllable NOT operator controllable(……like Deming)• Quality management approaches are Quality Trilogy

Juran’s trilogy

Managing for quality consists of three basic quality-oriented processes:

• Quality planning: provides a system capable of meeting quality standards

• Quality control: used to determines when corrective action is required

• Quality improvement: seeks better ways of doing things• All three are equally important like the legs of the stool

Crosby philosophies

• Zero defects

• Quality is free

• Quality means conformance to requirements.

• The real costs of quality are the costs of non-conformance

(such as rework, scrap, and warranty costs).

• Do it right the first time and we avoid these costs, thereby

improving profitability

Crosby: Absolutes of Quality

Quality is conformance to requirements

The system of quality is prevention

The performance standard is zero defects

The measurement of quality is the price of non-

conformance

• Price of conformance and non-conformance• The costs of quality (COQ) are similar to Juran’s philosophy

– Prevention costs (design reviews, supplier evaluations, training, preventive maintenance)

– Appraisal costs (inspections and tests to determine conformance to requirements)

– Failure costs (rework, scrap, warranty costs, lost sales, product liability)

Prevention:• avoid failure and appraisal costs• increase profits without increasing sales, buying new

equipment, or hiring people.

Crosby philosophies

• Doing things right is always cheaper than trying to fix defects

after they have been created.(Quality is free)

• Cost of poor quality is higher than organizations’ realization

• Workers improve the system(Deming disagree)

Crosby philosophies

Crosby: 14 Steps to Quality Improvement

• Management commitment

• Quality improvement

teams

• Quality measurement

• Cost of Quality evaluation

• Quality awareness

• Corrective action

• Zero defects program

• Supervisor training• Zero Defects day• Goal setting• Error cause removal• Recognition• Quality councils• Do it all over again

Deming, Juran &Crosby Common philosophies

• Customer Focused

• Commitment and Leadership from Top Management

• Continuous Improvement Based on Facts

• Team Based

Quality Terms • Quality Management: Aspect of all the overall management

function that determines and implements the quality policy

• Quality System: The organizational structure, responsibilities, procedures, processes, and resources for implementing quality management

• Quality Plan: A document setting out the specify quality practices, resources, and activities relevant to a particular product, service, contract, or a project.

• Quality Policy: The overall intentions and directions of an organization as formally expressed by top management

• Quality Assurance: All those planned or systematic actions necessary to provide adequate confidence that a product or service will satisfy given requirements for quality.

• Quality Control: The operational techniques and activities required to fulfill the requirements for quality

• Statistical Quality Control: The application of statistical techniques to the control of quality.

Quality Terms

• Inspection: Activities such as measuring, examining, testing, gauging, one or more characteristics of a product or service, and comparing these with the specified requirements to determine conformity.

• Testing: A means of determining the capability of an item to meet specified requirements by subjecting the item to a set of physical, chemical, environmental, or operating actions and conditions.

Quality Terms

Quality Management SystemQuality management system set of coordinated activities used to:• direct and control organizations • continually improve organizations efficiency and effectiveness towards

qualityQMS aims:• To direct and control an organization with regard to quality• To structure organization in an effective and efficient mannerGuiding principle in QMS• is not simply assessment and control but quality culture Quality Management• Organizational structure• Procedures• Processes and resources• Quality policy• Quality objectives

Means to implement Quality Policy and Attain Quality Objective

• Quality planning• Quality control• Quality Assurance and • Quality improvementGuiding principles of QMS

QMS; ISO Standards

Quality standards

• The ISO 9000 standards; a set of international quality management standards and guidelines

• ISO quality Standards: ISO 9000: applicable for service and product oriented institutions ISO 9001:2000 ISO 9001:2008 (Upgraded version)

QMS Principles

• Customer focus• Leadership• Involvement of people• Process approach • System approach for management• Continual improvement• Factual approach for decision making• Mutually beneficial supplier relations

Benefits of the principles• policy and strategy formulation • goal and target setting• operational management• human resource management

QMS Principles

Customer focusOrganizations should:

• understand current and future customer needs

• meet customer requirements

• strive to exceed customer expectations.Benefits:

• Increased revenue and market share by flexible and fast

responses to market opportunities

• Increased effectiveness in the use of resources to enhance

customer satisfaction

• Improved customer loyalty to business continuity.

Good leadership

• Establish unity of purpose and direction of the organization

• Create and maintain the internal environment in which people can become fully involved in achieving the organization’s objectives

• Be proactive and leading by example

• Understand and respond to changes in the external environment

• Consider the needs of all stakeholders including customers, owners, people, suppliers, local communities and society at large

• Establish a clear vision of the organization's future

• Establish shared values and ethical role models at all levels of the organization

• Build trust and eliminate fear

• Provide people with the required resources and freedom to act with responsibility and accountability

• Inspire, encourage and recognize people's contributions • Promote open and honest communication• Educate, train and coach people• Implement strategy to achieve these goals

Good leadership

Involvement of People

• Accept ownership and responsibility to solve problems • Actively seek opportunities to make improvements

• Actively seek opportunities to enhance competencies, knowledge and experience

• Freely share knowledge and experience in teams

• focus on the creation of value for customers

• Being innovative and creative in realizing the organizations objectives

• Better representing the organization to customers, local communities and society at large

• Deriving satisfaction from their work

• Be enthusiastic and proud to be part of the organization

Involvement of People

Process Approach

• Defining the process to achieve the desired result

• Identifying and measuring the inputs and outputs of the process,

• Identifying the interfaces of the process with the functions of the organization,

• Evaluating possible risks, consequences and impacts of processes on customers, suppliers and other stakeholders of the process,

• Establish clear responsibility, authority, and accountability for managing the process,

• Identify the internal and external customers, suppliers and other stakeholders of the process,

• Consider process steps, activities, flows, control measures, training needs, equipments, methods, information, materials and other resources while designing the process

Process Approach

System Approach to Management

• Defining the system by identifying or developing the processes that affect a given objective

• Structuring the system to achieve the objective in the most efficient way

• Understanding the interdependencies among the processes of the system

• Continually improving the system through measurement and evaluation

• Establishing resource constraints prior to action

Continual Improvement

• Making continual improvement of products, processes and systems ---- every individual’s objective

• Applying the basic improvement concepts ( incremental improvement and breakthrough improvement)

• Using periodic assessments against established criteria of excellence to identify areas of improvement

• Continually improving the efficiency and effectiveness of all processes

• Promoting prevention based activities,

• Providing appropriate education and training on methods & tools of continual improvement (for every one)

• Establishing measures and goals to guide and track improvements

• Recognizing improvements

Continual Improvement

Factual Approach to Decision Making • Collecting data and information ,taking measurements

(relevant to the objective)

• Ensure the data and information are sufficiently accurate, reliable and accessible

• Analyze the data and information using valid methods

• Understand the value of appropriate statistical techniques(using statistical tools)

• Making decisions and taking action based on the results of logical analysis, experience and intuition

Mutually Beneficial Supplier Relationships

• Identify and select key suppliers,

• Establish supplier relationships that balance short-term gains with long-term considerations( for the organization &society at large)

• Create clear and open communications • Initiate joint development and improvement of products and

processes• Jointly establish a clear understanding of customers' needs• Sharing information and future plans• Recognizing supplier improvements and achievements

Development of QM concepts

QMS DESIGNQMS:• Applies to all processes• Interact with all processes• Begins with identification of customer requirements• Ends with ensuring customer satisfactionISO Std demands issuance and maintenance of the following

documented procedures– Control of Documents – Control of Records – Internal Audits – Control of Nonconforming Product / Service – Corrective Action – Preventive Action

ISO 9000 Series(QMS)

• ISO 9001:1994• ISO 9002:1994• ISO 9003:1994• ISO 9001:2000 • ISO 9001:2008

Contents of ISO 9001:2008 • Page iv: Foreword • Pages v to vii: Section 0 Introduction • Pages 1 to 14: Requirements • Section 1: Scope • Section 2: Normative Reference • Section 3: Terms and definitions (specific to ISO 9001) • Section 4: Quality Management System • Section 5: Management Responsibility • Section 6: Resource Management • Section 7: Product Realization • Section 8: Measurement, analysis and improvement • Pages 15 to 22: Tables of Correspondence between ISO 9001 and other standards • Page 23: Bibliography

QM process model

QMS requirements:General requirements

• determines the processes and their application needed for QMS

• determines the sequence and interaction of the processes

• determines criteria and methods to ensure that both the operation and control of the processes are effective

• ensures the availability of resources and information to support the operation and monitoring of these processes

• monitors, measures and analyzes the processes

• implements actions to achieve planned results and continual improvement of these processes

Documentation Requirements

• QMS documentation includes: – Documented statements of a QP and QO, – Documented procedures and records (up to ISO 9001:2008

International Standard) – Documents & records to ensure effective planning, operation and

control of its processes

• Quality manual• Control of documents• Control of records

QMS requirements:

Management responsibility• Management Commitment• Customer focus• Quality policy• Planning (quality objective, QMS Planning)• Responsibility, authority and communication(Responsibility

and Authority, Management Representative and Internal communication )

• Management review(Review inputs and outputs)

Resource management• Provision of resources(Competence, training, and awareness) • Human resources• Infrastructure• Work environment

Product realization• Planning of product realization• Customer related processes

– Determination of requirements related to the product– Review of requirements related to the product– Customer communication

• Purchasing• Product and service provision• Control of monitoring and measuring equipment

Measurement Analysis and Improvement• Monitoring and measurement

– Customer satisfaction– Internal Audits– Monitoring and measurement of processes– Control of nonconforming product

• Analysis of Data• Improvement

– Continual improvement– Corrective action– Preventive action

ISO 9000 QMS implementation14 steps• Top Management Commitment • Establish Implementation Team • Start ISO 9000 Awareness Programs• Provide Training • Conduct Initial Status Survey • Create a Documented Implementation Plan• Develop Quality Management System Documentation • Document Control • Implementation • Internal Quality Audit • Management Review • Pre-assessment Audit • Certification and Registration • Continual Improvement

Benefits of ISO 9001 QMS implementation

One-time and on-going savings Reduced defect rate Reduced cost of quality On-time delivery Improvement in customer satisfaction

QMS Benefits

• Repeatable Processes

• Knowledgeable Staff

• Increased Business

• Supplier Relationships

• Customer Satisfaction

• Total – Overall, the whole • Quality – Degree of excellence a product or service provide • Management – Act, art, or manner of planning, handling,

controlling and directing • Total quality management has evolved from the quality

assurance methods

Total Quality Management (TQM)

• The way of managing for the future• wider in its application than just assuring product or service

quality• Aims to improve quality and performance which will meet or

exceed customer expectations• Operates by integrating all quality-related functions and

processes throughout the company• Managing people + Business processes=complete customer

satisfaction at every stage (internally and externally)• TQM + Effective leadership=an organization doing the right

things right first time

Total Quality Management (TQM)

Total Quality Management (TQM)

Foundations of TQM• Commitment• Communication• culture

Building blocks of TQM• People• Processes• systems

TQM Principles

• Executive Management – the main driver for TQM

• Training –training on the methods and concepts of quality

• Customer Focus – Improvements to wards customer satisfaction

• Decision Making – based on measurements

• Methodology and Tools – to identify and solve non-conformances

• Continuous Improvement – work towards improving quality procedures

• Company Culture – The culture aim at developing employees ability to work together to improve quality

• Employee Involvement –pro-active in identifying and addressing quality related problems.

TQM implementation

Key elements: • Foundation : Ethics, Integrity and Trust

• Building Bricks : Training, Teamwork and Leadership.

• Binding Mortar: Communication

• Roof : Recognition.

Components of TQM

Commitment & Leadership

Cultural change Commitment from the leaders Involvement of all of the organization’s people

Who is Effective leader in TQM?• Develop and publish corporate beliefs, values and objectives,

often as a mission statement

• Personal involvement and acting as role models for a culture of total quality

• Develop clear and effective strategies and support plans for achieving the missions and objectives

• Review and improve the management system

• Communicate, motivate and support people and encourage effective employee participation

Leaders consider…..

• a long-term commitment to continuous improvement

• philosophy of zero defects /right first time culture

• Train people to understand the customer/supplier relationships

• Systems improvements must be managed

• Adopt modern methods of supervising and training

• Improve communications and teamwork

• Eliminate goals without methods

• Develop experts in the organization----retrain and Educate

• Develop a systematic approach to manage the implementation

of TQM

Conversion process in an organization

Customers and suppliers interfaces

The ability to meet customers’ (external and internal) requirements is vital.

Customers (internal and external) -----key Questions• Who are my customers? • What are their true needs and expectations? • How can I measure my ability to meet their needs and

expectations? • Do I have the capability to meet their needs and expectations? • (If not, what must I do to improve this capability?) • Do I continually meet their needs and expectations? • (If not, what prevents this from happening when the capability

exists?) • How do I monitor changes in their needs and expectations?

Suppliers (internal and external) ---key questions• Who are my internal suppliers? • What are my true needs and expectations? • How do I communicate my needs and expectations to my

suppliers? • Do my suppliers have the capability to measure and meet

these needs and expectations? • How do I inform them of changes in my needs and

expectations?

Customers and suppliers interfaces

• Leaders not giving clear direction • Ignoring competitive positions • Each department working only for itself • Trying to control people through systems • Confusing quality with grade • Accepting that a level of defects or errors is inevitable • Firefighting, reactive behavior • The “It’s not my problem” attitude

Poor practices in TQM

Quality Improvement Cycle

Deming Cycle

Plan helps to focus the effort of the improvement team on the

process.

Questions to be addressed by the team: • What are the requirements of the output from the process? • Who are the customers of the output? (internal and external

customers )• What are the objectives of the improvement effort?

Implement (Do) The implementation effort will have the purpose of:• Defining the processes that will be improved• Identifying and selecting opportunities for improvement

The improvement steps during implementation: • Define the scope of the system to be improved and map or

flowchart the processes within this system• Identify the key processes that will contribute to the objectives

identified in the planning stage• Identify the customer–supplier relationships for the key

processes

Deming Cycle

Data (Check) The data collection phase has the following objectives: • Collect data to check the process stability• Determine the stability of the process using the appropriate

control chart method(s)• Determine the capability of the process, if found stable• Determine the impact of unplanned events on the

improvement efforts • Update the maps/flowcharts and cause and effect diagrams, so

the data collection adds to current knowledge.

Deming Cycle

Analyze (Act)• Determine the action on the process: identify the inputs or

combinations of inputs that will need to be improved

• Develop greater understanding of the causes and effects• Ensure the agreed changes have anticipated impact on the

specified objectives

• Identify the areas to be involved in analysis, implementation and management of the recommended changes

• Determine the objectives for the next round of improvement (Problems and opportunities discovered can be objectives for future efforts)

Deming Cycle

Total Quality Management

Total Quality Management (TQ, QM or TQM) and Six Sigma (6) are “culture change” efforts to position a company for:

• greater customer satisfaction• profitability • competitiveness

• TQM : managing the entire organization so that it excels on all dimensions of products and services that are important to the customer

• TQM is about conformance quality, not features.

• Meeting Our Customer’s Requirements

• Doing Things Right the First Time (Freedom from Failure or Defects)

• Consistency (Reduction in Variation)

• Continuous Improvement

• Quality in Everything We Do

Total Quality management

A Quality Management System

A belief in:

• employee’s are able to solve problems(Training)

• people doing the work are best able to improve it(Empowerment)

• everyone is responsible for quality(involvement)

Elements for Success

• Management Support

• Mission Statement

• Proper Planning

• Customer and Bottom Line Focus

• Measurement

• Empowerment

• Teamwork/Effective Meetings

• Continuous Process Improvement

• Dedicated Resources

Measurement

Measu

rem

ent

Measu

rem

ent

Measurement

Empowerment/

Shared Leadership

Process Improvement/

Problem Solving

Team Management

Customer Satisfaction

Business Results

The Continuous Improvement Process

. . .

Questions

• Define Quality Management System• Write benefits of QMS• Discuss the three quality Trilogy as stated by Juran?(Explain

Each)• What are TQM Foundations and Building blocks• Why continuous improvement is needed?

Chapter 2: QA in Garment industry

Quality Assurance:• all the planned and systematic activities implemented within

the quality system • Provide adequate confidence that a product or service will

fulfill requirementsQuality control:• Deals with the operational techniques and activities used to

fulfill requirements QA can be internal or External• Internal quality assurance: -provides confidence to the

management• External quality assurance: - provides confidence to the

external customers

Quality in the manufacturing process

• Pattern making and first sample inspection: to identify how the garment will look, how the fabrics and trims will work in the style, and to develop initial fit parameters

• Pre-production sample inspection: for accurate fit measurements during production pattern corrections, spec. development and trim confirmation, proper garment construction, yield a consistency of fit and finish

• In-line (in-process) quality inspection E.g. stitching, seams, pressing or label selection & placement

• Finished product inspection confirms proper garment construction. E.g. garment appearance, and ensures that the purchase order is finished properly and that all packaging (labels, hangtags, etc.) are applied correctly

Improving Garment Product Quality

Why quality improvement ?

• to satisfy customers

• to control production cost

• to save Resources

Improving product quality requires:

• Deliberate and ongoing attention

• Commitment of every individuals (from the person who

cleans the floor to the most senior manager)

Quality improvement Actions

• Communicating: (the importance of quality, everyone’s role in achieving and maintaining right quality)

• Maintaining a clean and dry workplace(e.g. storage rooms and shipping areas)

• Selecting and utilizing proper equipment for each manufacturing activities

• Providing the proper tools and training to each worker, and communicating quality performance expectations from management

• Planning and conducting an ongoing program of machine maintenance

• Establishing agreed-upon quality standards with before purchase:(procedures for rejecting/returning unacceptable goods)

• 100% inspection of all incoming goods1. Visual inspection by a trained inspector running every roll of

fabric

2. Color shade check, compared to agreed-upon (or buyer imposed) shade tolerances

• Rejection and return of all goods that don’t meet agreed-upon quality standards

• 100% inspection of value added processes like panel printing, machine embroidery, hand embroidery etc

• Checking the cut components;(matching cut panels with original pattern, shade variation, fabric related defects etc.)

• 100% inspection of work in process and finished garments– to ensure adherence to size specifications – to control stitching related defects(needle cutting, open seam, broken

seam, jump stitch, variable gathering etc.)

Quality improvement Actions

• Record defects based on:– production lot– source (fabric, cutting, or assembly)– type– Operator/machine number

• Analysis of defect data to identify sources of quality problems

Corrective measures:

• Replace – replace underperforming suppliers, equipment,

• Repair – repair ill-functioning equipment,

• Retrain – retrain underperforming workers and

• Reward – reward high performing workers

Quality improvement Actions

Quality Assurance procedures

• Reporting and Quality Approval Procedures(reporting to buyers to get approval at different stages)

• Factory Quality Control Procedures (factory inline and finished product inspection)

Reporting & Quality Approval Procedures

Receipt of the purchase order initiates the pre-production process for each style

Result• an approved pre-production sample• a set of specifications (specs) • a trim card of actual trims and swatches for all components of each style At 20% completion of the purchase order, the supplier must submit

purchase order samples for approval Result• Approval (“approved as submitted”, “approved with modifications”, or “not

approved”) The Finished Product Inspection Report sent to buyers Quality Assurance

office Result• a Certificate of Approval prior to shipment

Factory Quality Control Procedures

Factory in-line inspection

• In-line inspection is a critical aspect of a good quality program.

• Problems discovered early in production allow for early correction and

prevention of costly final audit failures.

• In-line inspection is ongoing and continuous process

• It requires sampling pieces from the bundles to check against construction

and measurement standards

Timeline

• Checking all components prior to sewing

• Checking during the assembly of the product(sewing)

• Checking during the washing, finishing and packaging processes

Finished product inspection (At two levels)

100% inspection– Checking of all quality requirements (stitching, seams and pressing…)

as the production completed

– Mark defectives and send it back to the floor for repair

– No defective garments should be shipped to buyers

Statistical inspection audits– To determine if each purchase order meets all quality standards

– Select statistical quantities(for construction, finish and packaging, and the measurement, fit for each color)

Factory Quality Control Procedures

Finished product inspection

Final inspection audit• Visual• Construction/measurement/fit • Packaging

Why Final Inspection Audit?to verify that the product meets standards as related to: • Technical (Specification) Package • Fit Measurements /construction• Visual Appearance • Packaging Requirements

Visual Quality Audit----AQL

Measurement ----AQL

Inspection Procedure• Find out the number of units packed at the time of audit from the factory

management• Pull, at random, the quantity of garments proportionally by size and

color, to be examined, based on purchase order size quantities• Make sure that the packaging materials meet specified standards. • Inspect the product for defects related to visual, construction and

packaging• Defects observed are to be listed on the Finished Product Inspection

Report form. • The number of defects observed is reviewed against the amount allowed

in AQL table • Complete the Finished Product Inspection Report form for Visual /

Construction / Packaging. • If the audit fails for visual, construction, or packaging, the purchase order

must be 100% inspected by the quality inspector • If problems are found that create any shipping delays, notify the buyers

Import department immediately.

Organizational structure of quality department

Who Assure Quality?

Quality-conscious companies philosophy:

Employees at all levels of planning and production are able to:

• Identify the causes of defects • Propose solutions to problems

Quality control methodsTwo basic controlling techniques• Testing • Inspection Controlling stages:• Piece goods quality control• Cutting quality control (Spreading, after cutting)• In process quality control(sewing)• Finishing quality control

– Process inspection:– Two hourly audits:– Day’s final audit:– Lot final audit:

Role of QA department

Responsibilities of quality Team• Setting quality standards for the factory for each departments and

processes. (after buyer’s requirements are known)

• Establish SOPs for production and preparatory processes to get right first time quality from each process

• Develop MIS for quality measurement and Recording

• When established quality standards exist in a company follow them and control the factory quality standard

• Monitor the quality of the product through the various stages of production

• Train newly hired quality personnel on company quality policies and how to use quality tools.

Pre-production: • Auditing inward fabric and trims and ensuring only quality

goods are accepted.

• Involvement in product development and sampling stage and take care of quality aspects of samples.

• Ensure that no faulty fabric is sent for cutting.

• Preparing audit report of the fabric and trims quality.

• Conducting pre-production meeting before production start.

Responsibilities of quality Team

Production: • Perform inline inspection and end-of-line inspection in sewing

floor.

• Perform inline inspection, pre-final audit and final inspection in finishing department

• Audit of the packed goods prior to buyer QA Audit

• Prepare quality analysis reports and prepare improvement plan

• Ensure the right quality of the outward garment by conducting quality audits

Responsibilities of quality Team

Department wise quality checking

Standards and specifications

Discussions

• Definitions

• Differences

• Similarities

• benefits

Questions

• Discuss the difference between quality assurance and Quality control.

• What is the advantage and disadvantage of Statistical quality Audits and 100% inspections?

• Design a quality parameter for each department in Garment Industry.

CH3: Inspection and Testing

Inspection: • the visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished

components and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements.

• Aims to monitor and regulate quality, most quality programs include

• The careful examination of fabric, garment parts, and completed garments at varying stages in the production cycle

Inspection loop

Inspection procedureTo facilitate inspection of packed goods the following information's are

needed• Order quantity: The quantity available for inspection accords to the order

quantity.• Packaging and folding: The style is boxed, packaged and folded as per the

specification

• Labeling : All labels will be evaluated based on the specifications outlined in labeling section of the specification. Labels are checked for correct brand name, fiber content, care instruction and country of origin and its placement.

• Styling: The garment should include all features as approved in the sealer / pre-production sample.

• Visual defects: Visual and functional defects will be evaluated using the parameters set forth in the specification

Inspection stages• Raw material Inspection(Fabrics, Trims)

• In process Inspection(PM ,MM, Spreading, cutting ,Sewing , pressing/Finishing)

• Final inspection( visual appearance, folding, Packaging, hangers, hangtags)– Correct measurements – Garment symmetry , Seam pucker, seam allowance – Pressing/fusing defects ,Cleanness, Loose threads – Correct matching of fabrics and accessories – Shade variation – Correct fitting and alignment of closures – Correct placement of labels

Inspection steps/how to conduct inspection

Three fundamental concepts to inspect: • Inspection levels • The AQL ,for decision making• When to inspect?(time) Benefits: • Help for informed decisions based on an inspection report• Ensure the inspection plan meets the needs of buyers and

manufacturers

Inspection levels (How much to inspect?)• Checking 100% of the quantity would be long and expensive

But how many samples to select• Checking only a few pieces might prevent the inspector from

noticing quality issues• The objective is to keep the inspection short by reducing the

number of samples to checkSampling Normal Levels• Reduced levels(Level I) • Normal level (level II)• Tightened level(Level III)

Special Levels• In some cases the tests can only be performed on very few

samples, for two reasons: • They might take a long time • They end up in product destruction. (e.g. unstitching a jacket

to check the lining fabric).

Inspection levels (How much to inspect?)

Inspection levels (How much to inspect?)

Garment inspection stages/when to inspect?

• PPI• IPI• MPI• FRI

Garment inspectionVisual inspection • Thorough check of seams for stitching defects including pocket pouches, side to side

symmetry of plackets, evenness of inseam lengths • Proper functioning of buttons, snaps, zippers, Velcro • Embroidery quality • Lock stitching of button holes • Pocket placement ,shape and evenness-garment to garment consistency • Garment labeling information • Shade variation Measurement Inspection • Auditor performs critical measurement inspection Packaging inspection • Hang tag/price tag information and placement • Style, color and quantity per carton • Packaging-flat pack vs. hanger pack • Missing or unreadable UPC • Carton size and markings

CH4 Fabric and garment Defects

Defects – Defects are all those non-conformances that are not acceptable by end customer

Defective Pieces – Defective pieces are those pieces, which are separated for alteration during checking due to non conformance to requirements

Classification of Defects Garment defects: based on source or origin• Fabric defects: (Knit and woven, either manufacturing or processing)

– Are major source of finished garments rejection/sub-standard quality– Persist throughout the sewing process– As fabric contributes to major part of production cost, its failure

affects the price of the garment Therefore, Fabric should conform to the specification and the standards to

reduce failure of garments

Challenges for garment manufacturers:o Reduced product lead-timeo Improved productivity and qualityFabric defects :

color defects construction defects cleanliness /soiling

• Garment (Workmanship and handling) defects: caused by production section; cutting and sewing

• Trims, accessories and embellishment defects: (labels, color of sewing thread, screen print and embroidery designs and placements)

Garment quality depends on number and type of Defects Defects can be measured by:

– Defects per hundred units (DHU)– percentage defective(% defective)

• Defects per hundred units (DHU) – number of total defects in 100 checked garments.

• DHU = Total no. of defects found X 100 / Total pieces checked • Percent Defective (%) – Total number of defective pieces in 100 checked

garments • Percentage defective = Total no. of defective pieces X 100 / Total pieces

checked

Classification of Defects

Defects categoriesDepending on the severity, defects can be classified as:• Critical • Major• Minor

Critical defects: Defects which could result in hazardous or unsafe conditions for individuals using or maintaining the products as well as defects violet legal regulations.

• They are defects that are not allowed to be shipped and are the most serious of defects

• e.g. Children Safety Care , flammability instruction

Major defects: This is a defect which is sufficient to cause the garment to be considered as second’s quality

• A defect which is obvious • Affects the salability or serviceability which worsens with wear and time • Varies significantly from the approval garment specification

Minor Defects:• It would not normally be identified by the customer, but is, however less

than the agreed quality standard. A defect which • Does not affect the performance of the garments in normal conditions • Is not noticeable to the customer on purchasing • Is not noticeable to the wearer of the garment, or others • Will not worsen with time and wear

Defects categories

Fabric defects

• Fabric manufacturing defects; weaving, knitting

• Fabric processing and finishing defects; dyeing, printing, finishing, folding,Batching

Process defectsMarking Defects • Shaded Parts• Pieces not Symmetrical• Not Marked by Directional Lines• Skimpy marking• Notches and Punch Marks• Too wide Marker• Too narrow Marker• Mismatched Plaids• Misdirected Napping

Spreading Defects • Uneven Spreading:• Narrow Fabric:• Missed Sectional Breaks:• Improper Tension:• Mismatching Plaids:• Misdirected Napping:• Improper Matching of Face of Material:

Process defects

Cutting Defects • Opening Slits• Improper Cutting• Notches• Oil Spots• Improper Knife Sharpening• Knife or Scissor Cut

Sorting/ Bundling inspection Defects • Not Stacked in Numerical Order:• Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material

Process defects

Process defects

Sewing Room Defects

• Scissors or Knife Cut:

• Tear:

• Incorrect Material

Shading:

• Spots or Stains:

• Loose Threads:

• Puckered Seams:

• Pleated Seams:

• Thread Breaks:

• Insecure Backstitching:

• Wrong Shade of Thread:

• Open Seams:

Process defects: Finishing Defects

Trimming Defects • Threads not Trimmed to

Specified Length• scissor Cuts • Seam Tear• Soil• Streaks

Pressing Defects • Pressing Omitted, Burned or

Scorched Garments• Inadequate Pressing• Garments not Thoroughly

Dried• Improper Pressing over

Zippers or Other Closures:• Pockets or Linings not

Pressed Correctly:• Pressing Producing a Shine in

Fabric

Folding Defects

• Garment not folded to Specification: Self-explanatory.

• Garment not folded with proper Materials: Cardboard, tissue or

other specified packaging material omitted

• Pins or Folds in Garment Incorrect: Pins in wrong location or folds

not correctly aligned for package.

• Garments not Buttoned, Flys not Closed, Incorrect Number of Pins:

Self exp1anatory.

• Label not showing: Garment not positioned in package to show label

on top surface.

Process defects

Causes and Remedial SolutionsDiscussion Points• Fabric construction, improper yarn quality, inefficient fabric

manufacturing processes(E.g End out, Knots, jerk in, Missing yarn, thick place, thin place)

• Fabric processing(dyeing, printing, finishing, washing, packaging,)

• Accessories and trims

• Garment processes(marking, spreading, cutting, sewing, finishing, trimming, washing, pressing, packaging )