Quality Guideline of JCPENNY

8/14/2019 Quality Guideline of JCPENNY

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Quality Guideline of JCPENNYINTRODUCTION

The Quality Control Guidelines for Manufacturing of Apparel and Soft Home Furnishings manual explainsthe purpose, design, and operation of the JCPenney Quality Control Program for suppliers. It describesin-process quality control measures that may be applied during manufacturing operations as well as

final quality inspection procedures for finished merchandise.These guidelines can assist you in setting up your own Quality Control Program for apparel and softhome furnishing. For purposes of illustration, references are made throughout this manual to garments,bundles, and other elements of apparel manufacturing. Naturally, the same principles apply to themanufacture of soft home furnishings such as bedspreads, draperies, and similar items.

PURPOSE OF QUALITY CONTROLIt is a long-standing JCPenney tradition to offer our customers first-quality merchandise. The purposeof the JCPenney Quality Control Program is to assist manufacturers in meeting our high standards.In addiction, the JCPenney Quality Control Program can help our suppliers with their operations.Quality control programs not only help spot and reject defective items, but more importantlytheypinpoint production operations that need special attention, thereby reducing the number of

defectsin future production. This type of quality control provides a basis for management decisions inthe manufacturer's plant.For the purpose of this manual, the term defect refers to a condition that renders merchandise ofsecond quality and/or unacceptable because the defect is one or more of the following:- It is conspicuous.- It will affect the saleability of the product.- It will affect the serviceability of the product.- It is significantly different from the specification.- It is understood that all performance and legal requirements must be followed to the letter, with nodeviation allowed, including (but not limited to) requirements for the following:

FlammabilityRefurbishing (cleaning)

Labeling

A manufacturer realizes three major benefits from a formal quality control program:

Getting the most for quality control dollarUsing the entire quality control staff most effectivelyEnsuring that even with turnover of personnel, quality is maintained

ESSENTIAL ELEMENTS OF A QUALITY CONTROL PROGRAMManagement LeadershipThrough the years, the JCPenney Quality Control Department has helped many of its major supplierswith the installation of quality control programs. Experience has proven that the key to effectivequality control is management's leadership in the program. If top management wants good quality and

displays leadership in quality concerns, middle management and production supervisors will followthrough. Without leadership from the top, there is often little or no improvement in quality no matterwhat system is used.JCPenney has experienced many suppliers who are serious about improving quality control. Themanagement of such suppliers has learned to identify and correct common problem areas such as thefollowing:

No piece goods inspection, not even measuring yardage to see that the company gets what it paid forin total yards.

No cutting inspection other than by a Cutting Supervisor.
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A ratio of only one Sewing Supervisor to every 100-200 Operators.

A lack of Quality Inspectors, or a ratio of only one Inspector to 100-200 Operators, or"Inspectors" who are primarily bundle movers.

Final 100% Inspectors who are on piece-rate pay and are performing operational functions such astrim, turn, button or zippers close, fold and package.

Little or no training program for any type of Inspector.

Inspector's salary rates lower than the rate for any other job in the plant; pay at the minimumallowed.

No checking for size other than measuring a few pilot-lot garments.

No lab testing or lab equipment, not even a washing machine.

No inspection or checking of contracted merchandise beyond possibly sending someone to thecontract shop once a week or once every two weeks, primarily to check delivery status.

Acceptance and shipment of import merchandise without checking it for quality or size.These conditions suggest areas to think about as you review this manual. After your review, you will beable to evaluate your system in terms of our recommendations for an effective quality controlprogram.

Final Statistical AuditingThe most crucial part of any quality control process is the final inspection. Our experience has shown

that unless the supplier uses the same inspection method that JCPenney uses to inspect incomingshipments, we may experience excessive quality problems.The inspection method used at JCPenney is called "statistical auditing." It is an inspection procedurethat projects that quality level of a group of items by carefully examining a statistically determinednumber of individual samples.The Statistical Quality Control Program explained in this manual will help implement a statisticalauditing final inspection in your quality control operations. While we encourage systems andprocedures for in-process inspections at all phases of production, JCPenney requires that the finalstatistical audit be performed on all JCPenney production. Adopting the JCPenney statisticalauditing method and recording the results will enable you to institute the following quality controlprocedures:

Evaluate your piece goods suppliers, identify bad shipments and take corrective action.

Evaluate your Operators in all areas of production (cutting, sewing, finishing) and take corrective

action as necessary. Evaluate your contract shops, identify bad production and take corrective action.As you study this manual, please keep in mind that the fundamentals of quality control are the same,whether you produce expensive or budget-priced merchandise, complex items like tailored suits orsimple, basic items. However, the details explained in this manual may not exactly fit your method ofmanufacturing. It would be impossible for us to develop one specific program for all suppliers. You maywant to add to the suggestions or change them to fit your product line.JCPenney requires all merchandise manufactured for JCPenney to be first quality merchandise,whether expensive top-of-the-line, mid-priced, or budget-priced merchandise. To us, price differenceis based on cost of materials and labor to produce the merchandise. JCPenney will work with suppliersto ensure the quality control program provides first quality merchandise for our customers.

Help From JCPenney

If we can help you in any way with procedures described in this manual, please contact our WestDomestic Inspection Evaluation Manager at 972-431-8143 or the East Domestic Inspection EvaluationManager at 972-431-8145.

GUIDELINES FOR MANAGEMENTManagement plays a critical role in quality control. The following guidelines for management reflectrecommendations for planning and initiating an effective quality control program.

CHAIN OF MANAGEMENT RESPONSIBILITYManagement is responsible for determining who will have final decision regarding quality control


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problems. The chain of responsibility may vary depending on the size and staff of the manufacturer.Quality problems found in the final audit may require important decisions, such as these:Who will do a 100% inspection, if necessary?Do we have time to return the merchandise to the production plant for corrective action?Do we ship problem goods, knowing that the merchandise fails to meet the established quality level.Such decisions should be made by an assigned and responsible manager, not by sales or productionpersonnel. Quality Control should be established as a separate entity from sales and production.QUALITY CONTROL STAFFING REQUIREMENTSA good quality control program requires a competent Quality Control Manager or Supervisor. TheQuality Control Manager is responsible for overall quality control systems, procedures, and directions.All Quality Inspectors report to this person. The Quality Control Manager should report to the personwith the most responsibility for the facility operation.It is important that the Quality Control Manager has the proper attitude toward quality. It is alsoimportant to ensure the Production Managers have the proper attitude regarding quality control.These two areas must work together as a team.The size of the plant determines the number of quality control staff needed to do the job. Somesuppliers have discovered that, after instituting the statistical auditing method, they had moreInspectors on staff than they needed. The procedures presented in these guidelines will help establishthe size of the quality control staff necessary for your facility.If you need help in determining your staffing requirements, the JCPenney Quality ControlDepartment will be glad to help.

PLANNING OVERVIEWAlthough there are many important elements of an effective quality control program, two elements areessential: leadership of management and careful inspection of merchandise.Planning The Total Quality Control ProgramIt is very important to plan the steps to implement the total Quality Control Program. The totalprogram outlined in this manual includes monitoring operations, inspecting finished goods, recordingresults, and taking corrective action. Four major areas to consider are:Staffing: Quality Control Manager/Supervisor, InspectorsIn-process Auditing/Corrective ActionFinal Auditing/Corrective ActionReporting: Plan forms to be used/Distribution of reports

Planning Piece Goods, Cutting, And In-Process AuditingSpecific plans for auditing during the manufacturing process should include the following:Number of Inspectors neededSystem and procedure for auditingSampling plans establishing the number of items to auditRecord keeping and distributionLine of authority for taking corrective action and training of InspectorsExplanation to production people of the purpose and need for in-process auditingNecessary tools and work stationsPLANNING FINAL STATISTICAL AUDITINGSpecific plans for a final statistical audit of finished merchandise should include the following:Number of Inspectors neededSystem and procedure for auditing

Determination of an "identifiable lot" as the unit to be auditedSampling plan establishing the number of items to auditRecord keeping and distributionLine of authority for taking corrective action and training of InspectorsExplanation to production people of the purpose and need for final auditingNecessary tools and work stationsStudy the balance of these guidelines before planning a quality control program.


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PIECE GOODS QUALITY CONTROLQuality softline products require quality piece goods. Even the most outstanding manufacturingmethods cannot compensate for defective materials. This section provides recombinations to help youcreate an aggressive piece goods quality control program and thereby eliminate many quality-relatedproblems before the manufacturing process begins.

PIECE GOODS INSPECTION GUIDELINESInspect piece goods upon receipt. In most cases, it is not necessary for Inspectors to 100% inspect piecegoods. If you are a Supplier who uses very expensive fabrics, you probably inspect 100% to avoidproducing "seconds" because of price-goods defects. However, if you do not fit this category, werecommend that you install a system of sample inspection. JCPenney recommends a minimum 10%inspection of all piece goods prior to spreading. Three inspection systems are explained later inSections 321, 322, and 323.Many suppliers attempt to inspect while spreading. However, our experience has shown that itunrealistic to depend on the Spreader to control fabric problems. The Spreader is paid to spread, notto inspect, and efficient production of merchandise, not quality of fabric, is typically the Spreader'sfirst priority. Postponing piece goods inspection until the fabric is on the cutting table also increasesyour risk of accepting substandard shipments at the receiving dock, which will delay and disruptoperations and increase costs. Therefore, the most effective approach is to have Piece GoodsInspectors inspect piece goods upon receipt.For an effective piece goods program, train Piece Goods Inspectors as you train other QualityInspectors. Consider piece goods inspections important. Unless you offer pay and incentives to retainqualified inspectors, your entire program will suffer.

PIECE GOODS INSPECTION SYSTEMSEstablish a workable system for inspecting and evaluating piece goods shipments. Unfortunately, thereis no single widely accepted system for measuring the quality of fabrics, but some of the morecommonly used systems are described in this section.

Ten-Point SystemIn 1955, the Ten-Point System for piece goods evaluation was approved and adopted by the TextileDistributor's Institute and National Federation of Textiles. This system assigns penalty points to each

defect, depending on its length. The Ten-Point System is somewhat complicated because points-per-length vary for warp and filling defects. Table 1 that follows shows a breakdown of the points:

Table 1: Ten-Point SystemWarp Defects Penalty Filling Defects Penalty10-36 inches 10 points Full width 10 points5-10 inches 5 points 5 inches - 1/2 the1-5 inches 3 points width of goods 5 pointsUp to 1 inch 1 point 1-5 inches 3 pointsUp to 1 inch 1 pointUnder the Ten-Point System, a piece is graded a "first" if the total penalty points do not exceed thetotal yardage of the piece. A piece is graded a "second" if the total penalty points exceed the totalyardage of the piece. For example, if you had 100 points or less in a 100 yard piece, it would be a

"first." If you had 101 points or more, it would be a "second." (This system does not allow for variouswidths being inspected,)

Dallas SystemThis system was published in 1971 and approved by the Dallas Apparel Manufacturers Association. Thesystem was developed specifically for knits. Its purpose is to determine whether a piece of knittedfabric is to be classified as first quality or second quality.According to the Dallas system, a defect is any condition that, if found on a finished garment, wouldcause the garment to be termed a "second". This system defines "second" as "more than one defect per


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ten linear yards, calculated to the nearest ten yards." For example, one piece 64.3 yards long would beallowed six defects.

Four-Point SystemThe Four-Point System has received the widest acceptance in both the textile and needle tradesbecause it is the most lenient. It is simple and easy to understand. Since it is the most widely used, theFour-Point System is the system JCPenney recommends for suppliers instituting new piece goodsinspection procedures.

.01 Amount to Inspect Inspect at least 10% of the total rolls in the shipment.

.02 Selection of Rolls Select at least one roll of each color. If more than one roll per color must beinspected, then select the number of additional rolls in proportion to the total rolls per color received..03 Defect Classification The Four-Point System classifies defects as shown in

Table 2:Table 2 Four-Point SystemSize of Defect Penalty3 inches or less 1 pointOver 3, but not over 6 inches 2 pointsOver 6, but not over 9 inches 3 pointsOver 9 inches 4 pointsA maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard.The length of the defect is used to determine the penalty point. Only major defects are considered. (Amajor defect is any defect that, if found in a finished garment, would classify that garment as asecond.) No penalty points are recorded or assigned for minor defects (see Major And Minor Defects).Major defects are classified as follows:Major woven fabric defects are slubs, hole, missing yarn, conspicuous yarn variation, end out, soiledyarn, wrong yarn.Major knitted fabric defects are mixed yarn, yarn variation, runner, needle line,barre, slub, hole, press off.Major dye or printing defects are out of register, dye spots, machine stop, color out, color smear, orshading.Suppliers using the Four-Point System should obtain examples of major defects and minor defects, and

make them available as visual aids for the Inspectors..04 Acceptance Point-Count Most suppliers use 40 points per 100 yards as the acceptable defect rate.However, you should establish your acceptance point-count based on your product and its end use..05 Acceptance Criteria There are two methods of determining whether a shipment is acceptable. Youmust decide which method will fit your product. The methods available are as follows:One method of acceptance uses a projection of total defects based on the number of defects foundduring inspection of a sample. Here is an example using this method:Total yardage received: 2,400 yardsAcceptance point-count: 40 per 100 yardsTotal yards inspected: 240 yardsTotal penalty points found in the sample inspection: 148 points 148 / 240 X 100 = 61.7 points per 100yards. (Allowance is 40 points per 100 yards.)Action: Shipment would fail.

A second method is acceptance of 10% bad rolls. Here is an example of the method:Total yardage received: 2,400 yardsAcceptance point count: 40 per 100 yardsTotal yards inspected: 7 (10 % rolls)Number of rolls rejected: 22 / 7 = 29% rolls rejected.Action: As 29% of rolls inspected were inspected were rejected, the shipment would be held for adecision.You must decide whether to reject the entire shipment and return it to the piece goods source, or


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whether to 100% inspect the balance of the rolls. Management must make this decision; do not leavesuch decisions to the Inspector or Quality Control Supervisor. If you need production from the goodrolls, it may be to your advantage to 100% inspect..06 Inspection Procedure This procedure shows the steps necessary to ensure an effective piece goodsquality control program:Determine the amount to inspectSelect the rolls to inspectPut the rolls on the inspection machine or other viewing device.Cut off a 6-inch piece across the width of the goods. Mark this piece so that theInspector will know the right and left sides of the fabric. Use the strip to check for shading side-to-sideand end-to-end by checking it at least once against the middle of the roll and once at the other end.Inspect for visual defects at a speed slow enough to find the defects.Check that the roll contains the yardage as stated by the piece goods source.Check for skewed, biased, and bowed fabric. Predetermine the tolerance you will allow; this willdepend on your product.Example: Width of Fabric Tolerance(In Inches) (In Inches)45-50 150-60 1 1/2Weigh the roll of fabric to determine yield: Yards/Weight = YieldExample: Weight of roll = 35 poundsYards in roll = 59.5 yards59.5 / 35 = 1.70 yield.If major defects are not cut out of the fabric by the Inspector, mark them on theselvage (for example with colored threads). Should you later want to review thedefects with the piece goods representative, the defects can be easily located onthe inspection machine. In addition, the defects can be easily noted by theSpreader so that they can be cut out.Record the defects on a report form. (See the suggested Piece Goods QualityControl Inspection Report form on the following page. Please note that this isonly a suggested report form. Since report forms can require a variety of detailedinformation, make sure that your report form contains all the information youneed. The original version of our suggested form is enclosed at the back of this

manual for duplication purposes.)Do not require data on the form that you will not use. Recording data is a laborcost, so keep your form simple..07 Possible Considerations for Rejection In addition to excessive defects, the followingare common reasons for rejecting fabric rolls:No roll with a length of less than 25 yards should be accepted as first quality. Youmay want to specify this on your purchase order.No roll containing more than one splice should be accepted as first quality.No roll containing a splice part less than XX* yards should be accepted as firstquality. (You may not want to receive rolls with a splice near the beginning or endof the roll.)* This number should be based on fabric and particular usage.PIECE GOODS QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION REPORT

FABRIC SUPPLIER ___________________ TOTAL ROLLS RECV'DDATE OF INSPECTION________________ TOTAL YARDS INSP REJECT SHIPMENTPURCHASE ORDER #_________________ TOTAL PENALTY POINTS ACCEPT SHIPMENTSTYLE#_____________________________ POINTS PER 100 yds.W IDTH LENGTH COLOR SHADE PENALTY POINTS POINTROLL ACTUAL ON DYE DEF. FAB. TOTAL PER REJ. COMMENTSNUMBER COLOR ORDERED MIN. MAX. ROLL ACTUAL YARDS YARDS HOLE SOIL DEF. POINTS 100YD. (x)IDENTIFICATION OF FABRIC DEFECTSOften Inspectors are given the responsibility of inspecting finished garments without adequate


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training in fabric defects and their causes. The ultimate solution, of course, is to provide actualexamples or photographs of both major and minor defects. This section provides a list of defectsand explanations and simplifies the language and the judgments used in making visual fabricevaluations. The Quality Control Manager can provide this list to inspectors as a practical tool forachieving uniform inspection decisions.Major And Minor DefectsThe following definitions are central to fabric inspection:Major Defect A defect that, if conspicuous on the finished product, would cause the item to be asecond. (A "second" is a garment with a conspicuous defect that affects the saleability orserviceability of the item.)Minor Defect A defect that would not cause the product to be termed a second either because ofseverity or location. When inspecting piece goods prior to cutting, it is necessary to ratequestionable defects as major, since the Inspector will not know where the defect mayoccur on the item.Woven Fabric DefectsDefect Explanation SeverityBurl Mark When a slub or extra piece of yarn is woven Majorinto the fabric, it is often removed by a "burling tool".This will usually leave an open place in the fabric.Drawbacks Caused by excessive loom tension gradually Majorapplied by some abnormal restriction. When therestriction is removed the excess slack is woveninto the fabric. Usually the ends are broken.Dropped Pick Caused by the filling insertion mechanism on a Majorshuttleless loom not holding the filling yarn, causingthe filling yarn to be woven without tension. Thefilling yarn appears as "kinky". There will also beareas of "end out".End Out Caused by yarn breaking and loom continuing to Majorrun. The defect will appear as a thin line.Fly Usually caused by the spinning process; small Usually a Minorfibers spun into yarn of another stock. Often defect, but severecaused by lack of precautions to prevent size and color

contamination. contaminationcould make itMajor.Harness Caused by the harness straps breaking on a MajorBreakdown conventional loom. There will be a definite patternchange in the weave.Jerk-In Caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being Major orjerked part way into the fabric by the shuttle. Minor dependingThe defect will appear at the selvage. on how close thepatterns are cutto the selvageedge.Knots Caused by tying spools of yarn together Usually Minor

Mixed End Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the warp Usually Major(Yarn) frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric.Mixed Filling Caused by bobbin of lightweight yarn or different Majorfiber blend used in filling. Will appear as a distinctshade change.Open Reed Results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends to Majorbe held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will beconspicuous on fabrics that use different coloredyarns on wrap and shuttle.


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Slub Usually caused by an extra piece of yarn that is Major or Minorwoven into fabric. It can also be caused by thickplaces in the yarn. Often is caused by fly wastebeing spun in yarn in the spinning process.Smash Caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that Majorhave been repaired.Soiled Filling Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or filling Majoror End yarns, or on package-dyed yarn.Spot Mark When the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates Can be Majorunder tension; when loom starts again, the slack is or Minorwoven into the fabric.Thin Place Often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the Majorloom continuing to run until the operator noticesthe problem.Knitting DefectsDefect Explanation SeverityBarre Occurs circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on Usually Majorfeed into machine. Fabric will appear to havehorizontal streaks.Birdseye Caused by unintentional tucking from Major or Minormalfunctioning needle. Usually two small distorted depending onstitches, side by side. severity.Broken Color Usually caused by colored yarn out of place on MajorPattern frame.Drop Stitches Results from malfunctioning needle or jack. Will Majorappear as holes or missing stitches.End Out Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine Usually Majorcontinuing to run with missing end.Hole Caused by broken needle. MajorMissing Yarn Occurs in Circular knit. Caused by one end of yarn Majormissing from feed and machine continuing to run.Mixed Yarn Occurs in Warp knit. Results from wrong fiber Majoryarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric

could appear as thick end or different color if fibershave different affinity for dye.Needle Line Caused by bent needle forming distorted stitches. Major or MinorUsually a vertical line.Press-Off Results when all or some of the needles on Majorcircular knitting fail to function and fabric eitherfalls off the machine or design is completelydisrupted or destroyed. Many knitting needlesare broken and have to be replaced when badpress-off occurs. Bad press-offs usually start anew roll of fabric.Runner Caused by broken needle. Will appear as vertical Majorline. (Most machines have a stopping device to

stop machine when a needle breaks.)Slub Usually caused by a thick or heavy place in yarn, Major or Minoror by lint getting onto yarn feeds.Straying End Warp knit. Caused when an end of yarn breaks Majorand the loose end strays and is knit irregularly intoanother area.Dyeing Or Finishing DefectsDefect Explanation SeverityAskewed Condition where filling yarns are not square with Major or Minor


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or Bias wrap yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are depending onnot square with wale lines on knits. severityBack Fabric Seam Backing fabric is often used to cushion fabric being MajorImpression printed. If there is a joining seam in the backingfabric, an impression will result on a printed fabricBowing Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lie Major or Minorin an arc across fabric width; in knits the courselines lie in an arch across width of goods. Establishstandards of acceptance. Critical on stripes orpatterns; not as critical on solid color fabrics.Color Out The result of color running low in reservoir on Majorprinting machine.Color Smear The result of color being smeared during printing. Major or MinorCrease Mark Differs from crease streak in that streak will Majorprobably appear for entire roll. Crease markappears where creases are caused by fabric foldsin the finishing process. On napped fabric finalpressing may not be able to restore fabric ororiginal condition. Often discoloration is a problem.Crease Streak Occurs in Tubular knits. Results from creased fabric Major or Minorpassing through squeeze rollers in dyeing process. depending onproduct; usuallyMajor for fashionouterwear, Minorfor underwear.Dye Steak Results from a damaged doctor blade or a blade not MajorIn Printing cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until theoperator notices the problem.Mottled Color applied unevenly during printing. Major or MinorPin Holes Holes along selvage caused by pins holding Major, if pinfabric while it processes through tenter frame. holes extendinto body offabric far enough

to be visible inthe finishedproduct.Printer Machine Dye smudged along width of fabric as a result of MajorStop the printing machine stopping.Print Out Caused by print rollers not being synchronized Major or Minorof Register properly; results in various colors of the design notprinted in proper positionPuckered Selvage Usually caused by selvage being stretched in Minor or Majorfinishing or by uneven wetting out in sanforizationprocess.Sanforize Pucker Results from uneven wetting out on sanforize; Major or Minorusually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric

will appear wavy or puckering when spread oncutting table. Difficult to detect while inspecting oninspection machine with fabric under roller tension.Scrimp The result of fabric being folded or creased when Majorpassing through print machine. There will be areasnot printed.Selvage Torn Usually caused by excessive tension while Majorprocessing through tenter frames.Water Spots Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to Major


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remain too long before drying; color migratesleaving blotchy spots.SOFT HOME FURNISHING COLOR CONTROL PROGRAMSuppliers of soft home furnishings merchandise to JCPenney are required to evaluate allproduction for color acceptability to assure conformance with the approved standard. Suppliersare instructed to color-code and ship to JCPenney only that merchandise that falls within theestablished limits of tolerance established by the color-coding system.A reference manual describing the methods, procedures and requirements of the JCPenneyColor-Code Program has been prepared especially for use by all participating suppliers. For acopy of the Color Code Program for Catalog Soft Home Furnishings Merchandise manual, contactthe Senior Engineer for Home and Leisure at (972) 431-9835.CUTTING DEPARTMENT QUALITY CONTROLRev 0993Good sewing begins with good cutting. Bad cutting will result in sewing defects, excessiverepairs, and slowed production.STAFF FOR CUTTING INSPECTIONThe Quality Control Inspector's responsibilities include assisting the Cutting Foreman orSupervisor to identify cutting problems and take corrective action. Unless the cutting departmentstaff is unusually large, one Inspector is usually adequate for cutting inspection responsibilities.Smaller suppliers may split an Inspector's time between cutting and other inspection functions,provided both departments are near each other.PROCEDURES FOR CUTTING INSPECTIONThe in-process sample inspection procedures used in the cutting room are similar to those usedin the sewing room. (A description of these procedures is given in Section 500 of this manual.)However, some cutting operations (such as spreading) must be audited during the actualoperation. The frequency of sampling for each operation should be based on the possibilities ofproblems. Inspect the work of new people or identified problem people more often.Random SamplingEffective inspection requires random examination of cutting operations. An Inspector should notestablish a routine, such as auditing in the cutting rooms in the mornings and in the sewing roomsin the afternoon. Make every effort to get a fair representation of the cutting production by makingrandom checks.Cutting Inspector's Instructions

Please note that some tolerances listed below may not apply to your product; modify themaccording to your needs..01 Spreader The Quality Control Inspector should check the work of each Spreader for thefollowing:

Marker Placement Check that the marker is placed on the spread with the edgeparallel to the selvage of the piece goods. Verify that all cut pieces will be complete.

Shading Check for shading. Unless all parts are plymarked, it is essential to have asystem to control shading.

Table Marks Check for table marks as the "table" is marked. Allow no minustolerance for the splices.

Markers Ensure that no markers are creased, damaged, or have overlapped parts.

Splices After completion of the spread, check splice laps to see that both pliesextend past the marked splice by no less than 1/2 inch and no more than 1 inch.

Narrow Goods After completion of the spread, check the "far edge" of the spread tosee that all plies extend beyond the marker line.

Tension Check tension during spreading. This is very important on knit fabrics.

Count Check the count after completion of spreading, and before cutting. Count allplies at both ends. There is no tolerance.

Leaning Check carefully to ensure that one edge of the fabric is square to table top.Visually inspect the alignment of the edge with the table top.Record spreading defects by the quantity of defects found for each checkpoint. (See asample of the suggested Spreading Quality Control form below. The original version of


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the form is enclosed at the back of a hard copy of this manual for duplication purposes.For fabric utilization purposes, the sample form includes columns for edging, ends, andremnants.)Calculate the defect rate for the Spreader by dividing the number of defects found by theply height.Spreading Quality Control (sample form):SPREADING QUALITY CONTROLSPREADER______________________________MONTH_____________YEAR____________D E F E C T SDATECUTNUMBERPLYHEIGHTTABLEMARKINGMARKERPLACINGENDSSPLICESNARROWGOODSLEANINGTENSIONCOUNTSREMNANTSFABRICFLAWSTOTALDEFECTSDEFECTRATE

.02 Cutting The Quality Control Inspector should check each Cutter at a 2.5 AcceptableQuality Level (AQL) based on the number of parts being cut. The Quality ControlInspector should check for:

Miscut Check for miscut, or the failure of the Cutter to "split the line." Tolerance is +1/16" Report all defects for miscut to the Cutting Foreman (Supervisor)

Matching Plies Check the top ply with the bottom ply. Compare both to a hardpattern or the paper marker. Comparison to a hard pattern is best. Tolerance is +1/8". Report each defect found to the Cutting Foreman (Supervisor)

Ragged Cutting Check for ragged cutting according to the standards for yourproduct. This is a judgment defect. It is more important on critical parts. If the parthas to be recut, it is a defect.

Notches Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top ply. Toleranceis + 1/8". If the notch is more than 1/8" off, contact the Cutting Foreman (Supervisor).

Pattern Check Compare the pattern to maker paper to ensure that the maker wascorrect.Record cutting defects on a Cutting Quality Control form along with the number of bundlesexamined. (See a sample of a suggested Cutting Quality Control Form on the followingpage. The original version of the form is enclosed at the back of this manual forduplication purposes).To calculate the defect rate for cutting, divide the total defects found by the number ofbundles checked.Often changes are made to patterns to adjust for production problems. Some


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suppliers note such changes on the pattern and/or marker for the Cutter to correct.Do not allow such a policy. Preventive measures are the best control for quality.Make a new pattern with the correction.Cutting Quality Control (sample form):CUTTING QUALITY CONTROLCUTTER_______________________________ MONTH_____________ YEAR____________D E F E C T SDATECUTNUMBERBUNDLESINSPECTEDMISCUTMATCHINGPLIESRAGGEDCUTTINGNOTCHESPATTERNCHECKTOTALDEFECTSDEFECTRATECORRECTIVE ACTION FOR CUTTING DEFECTSAny defective work found by the Inspector must be corrected. The Cutting Room Supervisor andthe Quality Control Supervisor must work together on such problems. If they cannot agree on thecorrective action, then top management must make the final decision.IN-PROCESS QUALITY CONTROLRev 0993One of the keys to producing good quality merchandise is an in-process quality control program.Although it is possible to control your outgoing quality with only a good final audit, it is not

recommended that you use this approach. Unless you install an effective in-process qualitycontrol program, your cost of excessive seconds and repairs will be high. It is far more effectiveto correct the problem at the Operator level, than after the garment is completely assembled,pressed, packaged, and prepared for shipping. In addition, being able to deliver yourmerchandise on time is important to your customers. Good in-process controls assure that thefinal audit allows timely delivery.PURPOSE OF IN-PROCESS AUDITINGThe primary purpose of in-process auditing is to identify problems early in the production process.A problem may be caused by the Operator, the machine, cutting, or other factors. In-processauditing helps you find specific problems in production and concentrate on correcting them.IN-PROCESS AUDITING INSPECTORSThe number of Inspectors needed for in-process auditing depends on the level of quality projectedfor the final audit. A tool that you can use to project the quality level of your final production is to

have a qualified Inspector audit all outgoing merchandise, after its final inspection, for one to twoweeks. This data will usually establish the quality level of in-process production and will identifyproblems in operations.The desired ratio of Inspectors is one Inspector to every 30 Operators. Provided the outgoingquality is within the established Acceptable Quality Level (AQL), the ratio of Inspectors toOperators can be decreased. It is recommended that all Operators be audited a minimum oftwice each day.Another factor that will affect the ratio is the turnover rate of your Operators. All Sewing Traineesshould be closely monitored until audits assure that they meet your quality level.


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IN-PROCESS AUDITING TOOLSBelow is a suggested list of tools that the in-process Inspector will need:

Forms to record data.

Sampling plan with allowable defects.

Work station to perform the inspection. (According to the particular plant, the Inspectormay inspect at a given station or in the aisle near the Operator.) It is very important that

the inspection area have good lighting. Written quality standards.

Visual examples on the sewing floor to illustrate how the product should be made.

Tape measure (soft, such as fiberglass-reinforced cloth for apparel. A retractable metaltape can be used on some soft home furnishing items such as king size bedspreads).

Measurement specifications for critical operations.

Apparel Design Appraisal Report (ADAR) and minimum construction specifications (forJCPenney production).

1/4 inch masking tape or other obvious marker to identify defects.The report forms and specification documents on this list are discussed in detail in Section 800 ofthis manual.SAMPLING PLAN FOR IN-PROCESS AUDITINGA sampling plan contains the statistically calculated number of sample items to inspect and the

number of defects allowed. The following is the recommended sampling plan for in-processauditing that specifies the number of sample items to inspect and the number of defective unitsallowed.

Number of items to inspect - The JCPenney Sampling Plan for in-processauditing requires the inspection of seven sample items per bundle (up to 180 units). (SeeTable 3 below and Section 800 later in this manual for further discussion of SamplingPlans.)

Acceptable Quality Level - The Acceptable Quality Level, or AQL, is thepercentage of defective units that JCPenney has established as acceptable for theproduct being tested. The JCPenney AQL for in-process auditing is 2.5 for all operations.All JCPenney final audits for soft lines use an AQL of either 4.0 or 6.5. However, thesupplier's in-process audit uses a lower AQL than the final audit; otherwise, the finalaudits could fail because of the high rate of defects accepted during in-process auditing.

Therefore, any time the in-process Inspector finds one defective unit out of seveninspected, the bundle must be 100% inspected.Table 3: Sampling Plan for In-Process AuditingUnits in Bundle Units to be Inspected Defective Units AllowedUp to 180 7 0

Do not have the in-process Inspector do the 100% inspection on rejected bundles. Itreduces the number of bundles audited each day.

For product that is not in bundle form, it is recommended that a statistical inspectionbased on a 2.5 AQL be performed on a constantly controlled quantity of production.PROCEDURES AND GUIDELINES FOR IN-PROCESS AUDITINGThe following is the recommended procedure for auditing sample units:

The Inspector should audit completed finished bundles. Do not allow the Inspector tostand behind the Operator and inspect units as the Operator sews.

The Inspector must select units at random from within a bundle. The Inspector must inspect exactly the number of units called for on the sampling plan.No more, no less.

Depending on your operation (floor space, size of bundle, weight of bundle, lightingconditions), the location for the inspection process will vary. You should establish withyour Inspector a fully equipped and well-lighted work station. It may be preferable that thisstation be portable.

The Inspector must rove the floor. This means that he or she should not establish aroutine. The Operators should not be able to guess which bundles of work will be


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audited.

If you have more than one Inspector, rotate them so that the same Inspector does notinspect the same Operators for too long. A suggested practice is to change Inspectorsevery week. This provides you with a method for evaluating Inspectors, by comparingone Inspector to another with regard to the same Operator. Quality levels for an Operatorshould not fluctuate due to a change of Inspector.

If the Inspector finds a defective unit, the following corrective action steps should betaken:* If the Inspector finds a defective unit, he or she must tie a red ticket to the bundlecontaining it and identify the defective unit with red tape or pins so that theSewing Supervisor and the Operator can find it easily.* The Inspector gives all rejected bundles to the Sewing Supervisor.* The Sewing Supervisor gives each rejected bundle to the Operator who producedit, and explains what caused the defects, and how to repair them. (The Operatormust be shown how to sew the item correctly.) The Operator must inspect allunits in the rejected bundle and repair all defects.

To ensure that the problem has been corrected, the Inspector re-audits the correctedbundle by inspecting seven units at random from the entire bundle. Some suppliers allowthe Supervisor to do the re-audit, to provide a teamwork attitude between the Supervisorand the Inspector. Evidence shows that this makes the Supervisors feel a part of the totalquality control program. Other Suppliers prefer that the Inspector do the re-audit. Theimportant thing is that, no matter who does it, the re-audit be done well.

Once a bundle has been rejected, the Inspector must continue to audit every bundleproduced by the Operator until three bundles in succession are audited and passed.After passing the third bundle, the Operator returns to routine auditing. The purpose of inprocessauditing is to direct attention to the identified problem.

Use feedback from the final statistical audits to decide the frequency of in-processauditing. When the Quality Control Supervisor identifies a problem, he or she should tryto determine the cause. Is the in-process Inspector unable to find the defect? Or is theproblem due to not enough audits on certain operations or Operators?HANDLING REJECTED BUNDLESWhen the Inspector rejects a bundle, he or she initiates a five-part rejection ticket. Some suppliersuse red hard paper for each identification, and perforate the form for tearing apart. The samplebelow, which you may modify to fit your individual needs, offers a suggested outline.On the ticket marked "QC Stub," the Inspector enters the cut number, bundle number, Operator'sname or operation number, time, and date. The Inspector tears off the stub ticket and keeps it.The Inspector enters the Operator's name on the other four tickets, places these tickets with therejected bundle, and takes the bundle to the Sewing Supervisor for review.The Sewing Supervisor explains the problem to the Operator, shows the Operator how to repair orcorrect the problem, and instructs the Operator to 100% inspect the entire bundle, making allnecessary repairs before starting to work on another bundle. It is very important that the Operatorcorrect the rejected bundle immediately; otherwise, the Operator may allow the rejected bundle tolie at the machines for hours or days. After the bundle is inspected and repaired, the Operatorattaches the "Re-inspect" ticket to the bundle for delivery to the Quality Control Inspector forreauditing.The Operator retains the other three tickets and attaches the 1st Follow Up, 2nd Follow Up, 3rd

Follow Up tickets to the next three bundles produced for delivery to the Sewing Supervisor.The Sewing Supervisor is responsible for seeing that the rejected bundles and the next threebundles produced are submitted to the Inspector. The Inspector advises the Supervisor ifexcessive time was taken to correct a rejected bundle or to submit the next three bundlesproduced.After clearing the Operator for normal auditing, the Inspector destroys the tickets used. However,should any one of the three follow-up bundles fail, the Operator is given another set of threefollow-up tickets.RECORD KEEPING FOR IN-PROCESS AUDITING


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You must maintain a record or report form for each individual Operator that shows the followingdata:

Operator name and time-clock number.

Operation and/or operation number.

Sewing Supervisor and line number.

Daily log of audits showing units inspected and units found defective, with details of each

defect. Weekly summary to show total units inspected, total defects found, and percent defective.The format of the report is up to you. The sample shown on the following page is a suggestedform to keep for each Operator. The original version of the form is enclosed at the back of themanual for duplication purposes. Some suppliers find it easier to keep the individual report at theoperator station so that management and the Quality Control Supervisor can review it as theywalk the sewing floor. Others have the Quality Control Inspector carry the reports in a folder or ona clipboard.Some suppliers have their Quality Control Inspector total previous day's audits at the beginning ofeach work day. Others perform the calculations at regular, but less frequent intervals.Another record-keeping suggestion is to summarize each week's data onto an annual form. Seethe following sample Annual In-Process Quality Control Summary. The original version of thisform is enclosed at the back of the manual for duplication purposes.

Some suppliers have successfully used an incentive-pay system to give bonus-pay rate to anOperator who defect percentages are below a fixed amount and who is making production. Theremark often heard in the textile field is: "People aren't like they used to be; they don't care aboutproducing good work." Have you really tried to change attitudes by methods other than the threatof dismissal? It is a proven fact that management's attitude is a powerful factor in influencingchange.Work in Progress Inspection Record (sample form):WORK IN PROGRESS INSPECTION RECORDNAME OPERATION TIMEAQL 1.5INSPECT - 7REJECT FOR1 DEFECTPLACE "J" FOREACHPASSINGBUNDLETHREECONSECUTIVE REQUIREDRESERVEDFOR FOLLOWUP BUNDLETHAT FAILEDDESCRIPTION OFDEFECTS AND REASONSFOR REJECTIONS

DATE_____________________________INSPECTOR________________________SUPERVISOR_______________________X - FOR REJECTED BUNDLEO-FOR PASSED BUNDLEAnnual In-Process Quality Control Summary(sample form):ANNUAL IN-PROCESS QUALITY CONTROL SUMMARYOPERATOR ______________________________ CLOCK NO. ______________ YEAR _________OPERATION ______________________________ SUPERVISOR ___________________________


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JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUNE JULY AUG SEPT OCT NOV DECWEEK 1GMT INSP.# DEF.% DEF.WEEK 2GMT INSP.# DEF.% DEF.WEEK 3GMT INSP.# DEF.% DEF.WEEK 4GMT INSP.# DEF.% DEF.WEEK 5GMT INSP.# DEF.% DEF.MONTHLY % ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____ ____FINAL INSPECTIONRev 0993Final inspection should be done after all sewing and finishing operations are complete, but prior tobagging or packaging. It is important that all sewing defects are traceable back to the Operatorwho performed the operation. This is possible since at this stage of the process, piece rate orbundle tickets should still be attached to the bundles. The following are recommended actions foran effective final inspection program:

All sewing operators should make their own sewing repairs.

The inside of the garment should be 100% inspected. (It may be preferable toperform this inspection prior to pressing.)

Critical measurements should be spot-checked.

Thread trimming should be separated from final inspection.For the purposes of corrective action, records of defects, by Operator, should be kept.FINAL STATISTICAL AUDITING - MANAGEMENT GUIDELINESRev 0296The final statistical audit is one of the most important functions of a quality control program. TheJCPenney Company requires that every production lot of merchandise produced for JCPenneypasses a final statistical audit.The final audit serves these purposes:

It enables the supplier to evaluate his or her in-process controls.

It is the supplier's last chance to find problems before shipping.

It provides the supplier with information on his or her outgoing quality level.UNDERSTANDING THE BASICS OF STATISTICAL AUDITINGOne of the problems with statistical auditing is that some managers are not aware of theprobabilities or risks involved. The concept of statistical auditing is new to many people in theapparel and soft home industry. It is important that everyone who makes final decisions regardingcorrective action have some knowledge of statistical auditing and of the risks involved.When you inspect a sample from a lot of merchandise (if the units selected are a truerepresentation of the whole), the sample will give you an accurate projection of the true conditionof the lot.While specific sampling plans differ, the fundamental statistical auditing process is based ontaking one random sample and using the results of that sample either accept or reject an entirelot. If the defective units found in the random sample are within the allowed amount shown on the


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sampling plan, you may accept the lot. If the defective units found in the samples exceed theallowed number, you must reject the lot, even though is fails by only one unit. Do not increase thesamples size or take another audit--follow the plan.The sample, if randomly selected, should represent the actual quality level of the lot in question.Consider an example:

We have 96 white balls and 4 black balls.

Put all 100 balls in to a sack and mix them up. Put your hands into the sack and take out 20 balls.What are the chances of taking 4 black balls?Highly unlikely....but could happen.Realistically, how many black balls can we expect from the 20 random balls picked?NRS OF MIXED BALL(S) BLACK BALL(S)20 120 020 220 020 1100 4 (%)This graph gives you a rough idea about how the statistical sampling plan is derived.If someone has already completed 100% inspecting 100 units, we do not need to 100% inspectagain.We only need to random sample 20 units and if we find less than 2 units (maximum limit)defective, this means that the defective within the 100 pcs will be under 4% (AQL 4.0).If there are now 80 white balls and 20 black balls (instead of 96 white and 4 black). And we usethe same sampling plan of 20/2. What is the probability of blacks?Very likely it will be more than 2 blacks out of the 20 balls random. Probable 3 or 4 black balls.This means that the entire quantity (100 units) will have more than 4% of black balls. If black ballsrepresent defective, the entire lot will be rejected.How reliable is this statistical sampling plan?

It is highly reliable when complied with the following:- The lot size must be identifiable.- QC inspector must randomly select the sample quantity in accordance tocolor/size ratio from an identifiable lot.- QC inspector must know how to inspect (inside and outside).- QC inspector must have the standard of major defects.Is the AQL 4.0 statistical sampling plan a fair method to determine the acceptance orrejection of the entire production lot?

Let us look at the AQL 4.0 sampling plan.13 units accept: 1 major mathematics 7.7%20 units accept: 2 major mathematics 10%50 units accept: 5 major mathematics 10%125 units accept: 10 major mathematics 8%Mathematically, we are accepting more than 4% defective even though we are saying we allow4% defects. Let us consider the following.The mathematical 4% level should be sample 20 units and accept 0.8 unit defect.Since statistical auditing is based on taking one random sample to give a reading, it build in the

benefit of doubt and allows the upper limit to be used as the standard. Sample 20 units/allow 2(10%).It is hoped that if continued on a cumulative basis the defect rate should be within 4%.This is the principle of statistical auditing. The statistical projections from a relatively small sampleare accurate enough to serve as a workable standard for a large number of instances. It isimportant for you to know that, used correctly, the system will work and is far superior to the socalled 100% inspection method.IMPLEMENTING THE FINAL STATISTICAL AUDITThe following guidelines may help you plan and implement statistical auditing:


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.01 Determine at what stage of final production you will perform the final statisticalaudit. When products (such as dress shirts and underwear) require detailed packaging,the final audit should be made before packaging. If the sample audit fails, themerchandise can be inspected without destroying packaging material and labor. Whenthis audit is completed, regular audits should be made of packaged stock, to check onpackaging problems. The units inspected for packaging need not be opened andinspected for workmanship..02 Determine an "Identifiable Lot" An identifiable lot has two conditions:

It must be composed of the same items.

You must know which specific items the lot consists of, so they can be located after asample inspection in case corrective action is necessary. This means thatmerchandise must be held in a holding area until the sample inspection is completed,before it is mixed with other merchandise. Locating space for the holding area isusually the most difficult part of planning for the final audit. We encourage you tokeep the identifiable lot small. Small lots reduce the holding space needed andenable faster feedback to production on problems. Should a sample audit fail, thenumber of units that require 100% inspection is small. Using large lots (such as oneday's production) causes a large number of units to require 100% inspection in thecase of a failed audit.Some suppliers use the cut number as an identifiable lot. Other, that produce the sameitem continuously, accumulate by time period (one hour, two hours) for an identifiable lot.TOOLS FOR FINAL STATISTICAL AUDITSBelow is a suggested list of tools that the Final Statistical Audit Inspector will need:

Forms to record data

Sampling plan with allowable defective units

Work space with table and proper lighting for inspection and measuring

Written quality standards

JCPenney/Manufacturer Specifications (for JCPenney production). Suchspecifications must include specific fiber content tags/labels and care labeling.

Graphic, detailed instructions of how the product should be made

JCPenney Apparel Design Appraisal Report (ADA) and minimum construction (forJCPenney production) specifications

Tape measure Body forms (if available)

inch masking tape or other obvious marker to identify defectsFINAL STATISTICAL AUDIT INSPECTORBasic FunctionThe Final Statistical Audit Inspector is responsible for conducting a thorough inspection to predictthe quality level of the whole lot. This inspection is performed on a given number of randomlyselected items from an identifiable lot (see Section 830).Specific DutiesThe duties of the Final Statistical Audit Inspector are enumerated below. The explanation ofinspection duties assumes that JCPenney merchandise is being inspected. The Final StatisticalAudit Inspector performs the following duties:.01 Selects the correct number of items from an identifiable lot to inspect.

Determines the number of items to select for inspection by referring to the samplingplan.

Selects completed items after production, but before they are packaged and/or put inthe warehouse, or selects packaged merchandise from the warehouse (asappropriate for your company).

Selects the required number of items at random from the entire identifiable lot..02 Inspects each of the selected items carefully and thoroughly.

Uses JCPenney's manufacturing specifications or confirmation sample as theinspection guide.


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Identifies all defects as classified in Quality Standards for each item inspected.

Marks major defects with adhesive label, pin, or other prescribed method as an aid tothe Supervisor who reviews inspected items.

Set aside items with any major defects.03 Enters all defects found on the Merchandise Quality Audit form.

Fills in headings of the Merchandise Quality Audit form.

Records each defect as soon as identified.- Identifies the operation.- Enters a brief description of the defect.- Enters defect code number from the Quality Standard (if used).- Keeps a stroke count and enters the total for each type of defect.

Prepares remainder of the Merchandise Quality Audit form, as required by the QualityControl Supervisor..04 Notifies the Quality Control Supervisor immediately when inspection exposes more majordefective units than are acceptable. Obtains corrective action from the Quality ControlSupervisor and/or management..05 Sees that feedback of quality problems gets to production quickly..06 Maintains a neat and orderly work place.

Separates the inspected items from those that have not been inspected.

Maintains a supply of necessary forms. Keeps measuring instruments, quality standards, and other work items in goodcondition..07 Performs other assigned work when not doing statistical audit inspections..08 Maintains Supplier Self-Audit Summary (JCP-7017).RE-INSPECTION FOR CORRECTIVE ACTIONWhenever a lot fails you must 100% inspect to eliminate all classifications of defects. We suggestthe following process:After 20% of the lot has been 100% inspected, pause and review the data. At this point, combinethe sample audit data with the 20% inspection data. If the projection is still running more than theAQL, then the 100% inspection must be continued. If it is running less than the AQL, you cancease the 100% inspection.Table 4: Corrective Action on 1,000 Units with AQL 4.0

Process Action Units Inspected Units DefectiveSample Audit 32 0520% Inspection 200 22Total 232 27Defective Units (27)/ Total Units Inspected (232) = Audit percent (11.6%)Action: Continue 100% inspectionDo not use the Final Statistical Audit Inspector(s) to do the 100% inspection. It slows down thefinal audit process.FINAL AUDITING OF SUBCONTRACT SHOPS AND/OR IMPORT MERCHANDISEAll merchandise you purchase for JCPenney through contractors or importers must be finalauditedin the same way as your own production. Because you do not have direct control of anoutsider's production in the way that you do your own in-process system, you must audit allshipments of merchandise that JCPenney uses.

We recommend that you set up a record form by contractor to evaluate each contractor's quality.For example, see the following JCPenney Supplier Inspection Record (JCP-7343). While thisform is designed for JCPenney's use in JCPenney Distribution Centers, you can use it to evaluateyour contract shops or import suppliers. The original version of the form is enclosed at the backof the manual for duplication purposes.The numbered paragraphs below correspond to the circled numbers on the sample JCPenneySupplier Inspection Record shown below:

.01 Supplier Self-explanatory. When a supplier uses this form to record his own data, it isbest to record by each manufacturing plant. If the supplier subcontracts, we strongly


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recommend that data on individual contractors is retained..02 Department JCPenney Department or Subdivision. Many suppliers are diversified andthe data should be kept separate. For example, a supplier may make men's shirts andmen's suits. Use two separate forms to record the data..03 Distribution Center Location of the Distribution Center making the audits. Or in thecase of a supplier, the point at which the audit is performed..04 Year By showing the year at this point, it is not necessary to repeat it for the date, item 5..05 Date Date (month and day) of the specific audit..06 JCP Style Lot number or catalog number..07 Pass This can be filled in after the audit is completed or the 100% inspection iscompleted. There are three occasions when an audit can result in "Pass."A. Sample Audit: If the number of defective units does not exceed the numberallowed on the Sampling Plan.B. 20% Inspection: If the sample audit fails, you must 100% inspect the stock.However, it is possible that the sample selected may not be representative of theentire lot. Therefore, after an additional 20% has been inspected, stop andcompute whether or not to continue 100% inspection. For example, if your lotsize is 1,000, the AQL is 6.5%, you sample 50 units and find 8 defective units, the20% additional would require you to inspect 200 more units. If you did this andyou found 5 defectives:Total Inspected = 250Total Defective = 1313/250 = .052The 5.2 is less than the 6.5 AQL, so you would discontinue the 100% inspection.This would be a Pass.C. 100% Inspection: After the 100% inspection, if the result is less than theAcceptable Quality Level, you would check Pass..08 Fail Check Fail if the 100% inspection reflects a higher number than the AQL. Theremay be an occasion where the sample audit is so bad that the Buyer will elect to returnthe entire shipment to the Supplier. Of course, this would also result in a Fail..09 C/S Available Check if the confirmation sample is available to verify with a stock sample..10 Verification For Catalog use, verification of shipment or bin stock to catalog illustrationand copy description.

.11 Hold-Verification Check if shipment was held for verification.

.12 Units Received Total units in the lot audited.

.13 Audit-Unit Insp. Number of units sample-inspected.

.14 Audit-Unit Reject Number of defective units in the sample audit.

.15 20% Inspection - Unit Insp. Number of units inspected in the additional 20%. (Only tobe used when the sample audit fails.) Do not add the sample audit inspected figure tothis figure..16 20% Inspection - Unit Reject Number of units found defective in the additional 20%inspected. Keep the data for the 20% inspection separate from the sample audit..17 100% Inspection - Unit Insp. Number of Units 100% inspected. Usually the total unitsreceived must be 100% inspected. However, there are occasions when the sample auditfinds the problem to be in one size, color, or cut number. When that happens, only the lotidentified as bad needs to be 100% inspected. At any rate, the number shown here will

include the total inspected.Example:Units Received 1,000Sample Inspected 5020% Inspected 200100% Inspected 1,000Sometimes the Examiner will write in 750 units 100% inspected so that the 750 + 200 +50 = 1000 units, but this is wrong. The units shown here must be the total inspected.Whenever the figure shown here is not the same as the "Units Received," there must be


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an explanation in item 20, such as "only inspected size 12.".18 100% Inspection - Unit Reject Show the total units rejected. The same principleapplies here that was explained in item 17 above..19 Total Units Returned Usually this figure will be the same as the total rejected. However,there are situations when some or all units were corrected and put into stock.Whenever the total returned differs from the "Unit Reject," an explanation must be givenin item 20..20 Verification Problems and Action Use for general comments. If the lot was 100%inspected, do not waste time to write in "100% inspected," the data will show this.Example:"Wrong size on poly bag""Wrong stock number on poly bag""Fiber content tags corrected""Care labels added".21 Examiner The employee number of the Examiner that made the sample audit. Do notinclude the 100% inspection; often a number of Examiners are used to do the 100%inspection..22 Chargeback Number For JCPenney, we would show the chargeback number used toreturn the defective units to the Supplier..23 Pass There are entries for 10 audits in the space above this field. Indicate the amount ofthe 10 audits that passed..24 Fail Indicate the number of audits that failed. In JCPenney Distribution Centers, 3 failsout of 10 creates a "Corrective Action Request" (CAR). The CAR data is sent to DallasOffice Quality Control and Supplier is visited to determine the cause of the problems..25 Although we do not show this on the form, the total of the sample audit data can be usedto establish the quality level for the supplier, plant, etc. A total of at least 20 audits shouldprovide a good evaluation of the Supplier's quality level.REPORTING FINAL AUDITSAll supplier audits (including initial audits and re-audits) on JCPenney merchandise must berecapped by product type using the Supplier Self-Audit Summary (JCP-7017) form. This is donemonthly and calculated on a cumulative basis. Any questions in completing the form should beforwarded to the JCPenney Field Inspector. Copies should be sent to the JCPenney FieldInspector monthly. See the Supplier Self-Audit Summary form on the following pages.

Supplier Self Audit Summary (sample form):JCPenneySupplier Self Audit SummaryQuality Control ProgramBuyer: Subdivision: Quality Standard: Productive:Supplier: Location: Supplier QC Contact Phone #:Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sept Oct Nov Dec Jan TotalNo. of units inspectedCumulative Units InspectedNumber of Audits ConductedCumulative Audits ConductedDefected Units ReportedCumulative Defective Units

Reported% DefectiveProcess Average (%)1. To determine % defective, divide Number Units Inspected into Total Defective Units Reported andmultiply answer by 100.2. To determine Process Average, divide Cumulative Units Inspected into Cumulative Defected UnitsReported and multiply by 100.LISTING OF MAJOR DEFECTS BY CODECODE:


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*SEE APPLICABLE QUALITY STANDARD FOR CODE NUMBERSJCP 7017FINAL STATISTICAL AUDITING - INSPECTOR'S INSTRUCTIONRev 0797The final statistical audit that the Quality Control Inspector performs is very important for yourcompany and equally important for JCPenney. Each audit has two functions:To determine whether the specific lot inspected is acceptable, or must be rejected withcorrective action necessary to improve the lot to the acceptable level.To establish a means of evaluating your company's in-process quality control system andits ability to control quality.Quality Control Inspectors must be carefully selected and trained to do this important job.ELEMENTS OF THE FINAL AUDITThere are three elements of the final audit. All three elements must be checked on each lot, andany one can cause the lot to fail..01 Verification You must verify that the item produced is in fact the item contracted byJCPenney. This may be done by either of two methods:

Comparing the stock produced to the confirmation sample (which is an approvedsample purchased by JCPenney).

Comparing the stock produced to the JCPenney manufacturing specifications.You must also verify the accuracy of care labeling..02 Inspection for Workmanship Defects You must thoroughly inspect a statisticallydetermined number of units from the lot to evaluate the manufacturing quality of thestock..03 Inspection for Size Problems You must measure a few of each size of the units youhave inspected. A review of the data will determine whether a size problem exists.JCPENNEY DOCUMENTS USED IN FINAL AUDITSBefore going through the steps of the audit, the Inspector must understand the relevantdocuments.Manufacturing SpecificationJCPenney manufacturing specifications are used during the verification stage of the final audit.The specifications describe the item, list the findings and construction of the item, the equipmentto be used for each operation, the sewing thread to be used, the fabric to be used, weight anddimensional requirements, etc. The specifications also state the labels, tags, fiber content, and

care instructions. Detailed packaging instructions may also be specified. The products yourparticular company makes for JCPenney may not include all of these specifications. As anInspector, it is your responsibility to see that your stock meets the specifications required. If youread a statement in the specification that you do not understand, ask your Supervisor to explain itto you. Do not assume that the stock is correct; ask questions.You will be supplied with manufacturing specifications for the specific product being made. Forcore (staple) merchandise, a construction specification is provided to cover detailedmanufacturing requirements for the product. (For fashion merchandise, the JCPenney ApparelDesign Appraisal Report (ADAR) and confirmation sample become the manufacturingspecifications. See Sections 824 and 832.)Confirmation SampleOn fashion merchandise, we may not have time to produce detailed merchandise specifications.In such cases, the Supplier submits a confirmation sample to the Buyer. This sample becomes

the "specification" for the item. If your company uses confirmation samples to serve asspecifications, then you should see that you have a sample exactly like the one that the Buyerhas. By visually comparing the confirmation sample to the stock, you can confirm that the stockmeets JCPenney requirements for construction. Minor construction changes approved by theTechnical Designer and Buyer may be noted on a string tag attached to the sample. Also, aswatch of each color bought should be attached for you to check.Do not assume that because the lot you are inspecting is a repeated lot, mistakes inmanufacturing did not happen (wrong fabric, wrong labels). Follow the same routine onevery lot.


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Confirmation Sample GuidelinesConfirmation Sample Guidelines are issued by JCPenney to establish the measurements forsamples submitted to us for confirmation. These guidelines are intended to assist suppliers inpreparing samples. You should be familiar with these forms; however, you must be aware thatthey are not final sizing specifications and should not be used in the final statistical audit.The following "Confirmation Sample Guideline" is intended as an illustration and exampleonly. It may not apply to your product line, nor be the current issue for the product linestated on the standard.If you have any questions about the use of the ADAR and Grading Guidelines, please contact theJCPenney Apparel Inspection Manager at (972) 431-8337.Guideline # 3003-2890Supplier # ________JCPenney Company Men's DivisionCONFIRMATION SAMPLE GUIDELINE FORSHORT SLEEVE AND LONG SLEEVE TRADITIONAL (PlQUE)(A) THIS IS NOT A SIZE SPECIFICATION. These guidelines are intended solely for use bysuppliers in determining the measurements for confirmation samples submitted to theQuality Control Department. These samples will then be evaluated and sizingspecifications assigned via the Apparel Design Appraisal Report (ADAR) and a completegrading specification will be issued for each item by the Quality Control ProgrammableCalculator (PRO-CAL).(B) When making confirmation samples, fabric characteristics such as stretch or shrinkagemust be considered. Styling can also affect the dimensions of the sample.(C) All measurements must be taken in accordance with the JCPenney "How to Measure".The Measurement numbers listed below are exactly the same as those in the 'How toMeasure".(D) NO MARKERS ARE TO BE MADE FOR PRODUCTION GARMENTS UNTILAPPROVED ADAR (signed by Quality Control Designer) IS RECEIVED.(E) For grading increments from size to size see grade rule. 4002-0690SAMPLE SIZESMeas. # Point of Measurement 38-40 Medium209 Bust/Chest 44210 Waist 44

213 Sweep 44102 Across Shoulder 19205 Upper Arm 16207 Relaxed Knit Cuff 12115 L/S 34115 S/S 19101 C.B. Length 30122 N.P.S. 31207 Cuff 15176 Armhole Dept. 9 1/2APPAREL DESIGN APPRAISAL REPORT - (ADAR)The Apparel Design Appraisal Report or ADAR is issued by the Quality Control Designer at thetime a confirmation-sample garment is confirmed. It represents the findings of the Quality Control

Designer relative to size and fit, construction, and verification of the style by the Buyer.Only an ADAR signed by the JCPenney Quality Control Designer can be used to evaluatefinished stock. The designer's signature is in the lower right corner of the ADAR.The ADAR or Apparel Design Appraisal Report is the report form that establishes the individualmeasurements you will use to check your stock for sizing. The ADAR details the measurementsand garment size established for the confirmation sample. This information is entered intoJCPenney's computer, and the computer issues a printout of all sizes, their measurements, andthe tolerance allowed (grade sheet). The printout is mailed to the supplier.If you receive an ADAR, it serves as a construction specification for the final inspection.


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Remember, at present, not all styles use the ADAR. Usually all basic and long-run items havedetailed manufacturing specifications that include required measurements and tolerances.Some suppliers will take the JCPenney ADAR and establish their own specification. However,caution should be used to see that no errors are made in the reproduction of size specifications.An example of the Apparel Design Appraisal Report appears on the next page.The figures shown in the Sample Received column are the actual measurements taken on theconfirmation sample. The figures shown in the Should Measure column are the JCPenney sizespecifications for the garment size of the confirmation sample. The Should Measure figures fromthe ADAR are entered into the computer, which issues a printout of specifications for all sizes.This same information is used in measuring finished garments by both the supplier and theJCPenney inspectors to ensure adherence to sizing specifications. This information will besupplied to you on the ADAR in the Grade Rule No. box. (See example on following page.) Theappropriate grading guideline will be entered in this space. The grading guidelines will show thegrowth up or down as compared to the sample size.

BASIC QUALITY INSPECTION STANDARDSThe Quality Inspection Standards tables are used during the visual inspection for workmanship.They help the Inspector identify and evaluate problems.The Quality Inspection Standards contain listings of specific major defects that rendermerchandise less than first quality. In the heading of the Quality Inspection Standard, you will findthe following definitions of a major defect: "A major defect is any defect that is sufficient to renderthe garment second quality or unacceptable because it is conspicuous and/or may affectsaleability or serviceability, and/or is a significant deviation from a Buyer's specification."Whenever possible, the Quality Inspection Standards try to explain just how serious a defect mustbe to be classified as major. You will note that some cases use a tolerance as a guide todetermining major defects. Of course, evaluating some defects requires judgment. For example,in fabric defects, the location of the defect must be considered. Just about any defect located onthe collar and upper front of a dress shirt is considered a major defect. However, the same defectlocated under the arm or on the lower back where it will be inside the pants when the garment isworn, may not be major. In certain colors, a fabric defect may not be noticeable or conspicuous.Make certain that you understand every one of the defects listed on your Quality InspectionStandard. If you do not understand them, ask your Supervisor.In statistical auditing, it is very important that you and other Inspectors, both Final Auditors and

In-process Auditors, be uniform in the evaluation of defects.FINAL AUDIT PROCEDURESThe following sections explain in detail how you are to perform the final statistical audit.Definitions Of Key Terms.01 Identifiable Lot The production lot that you will be auditing will be determined bymanagement. The production lot to be audited becomes the "identifiable lot." Anidentifiable lot has two conditions:It must be composed of the same items.You must know which specific items it consists of so they can be located after thesample audit. If the sample audit passes, the identifiable lot can be accepted forshipping. If the sample audit fails, then the entire identifiable lot must receivecorrective action..02 Lot Size The lot size is the total units (not dozens) in the identifiable lot.

.03 Acceptable Quality Level The Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) is the maximumacceptable percentage of defective units that the JCPenney Company has established forthe product being inspected. The Acceptable Quality Level can be found in the heading ofthe JCPenney Quality Standard. For apparel items, the AQL will be either 4.0% or 6.5%defective. For soft home furnishings, the AQL is 4.0% defective.Selecting SamplesThe first step in the final audit is to determine how many units you must sample-inspect and selectthe samples. The items for statistical sampling inspection must be selected at random from anidentifiable lot. You must know which items make up the identifiable lot, because the entire lot


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must be inspected if the sample contains more defective units than acceptable.The type of inspecting you will do is called statistical sampling. The JCPenney Sampling Plan (seethe following sample) contains the "statistics" for the inspection. It tells how many items are to beinspected and how many major defects are allowed. The JCPenney Sampling Plan is based onthe military standard MIL-STD-105E for normal inspection. The original version of the form isenclosed at the back of this manual for duplication purposes.To determine how many samples to select from the identifiable lot, refer to the JCPenneySampling Plan--Supplier Final Audit (see sample JCPenney Sampling Plan-Supplier Final Auditwhich follows). The sampling plan contains the statistics for inspection.JCPENNEY SAMPLING PLAN - SUPPLIER FINAL AUDITTABLE ALot Size A C C E P T A B L E Q U A L I T Y L E V E L Sor Quantity 1.5 2.5 4 6.5Being Audited Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect Accept Inspect AcceptLess Than 151 8 0 5 0 13 1 8 1151 - 280 8 0 20 1 13 1 13 2281 - 500 32 1 20 1 20 2 20 3501 - 1,200 32 1 32 2 32 3 32 51,201 - 3,200 50 2 50 3 50 5 50 73,201 - 10,000 80 3 80 5 80 7 80 1010,001 - 35,000 125 5 125 7 125 10 125 1435,001 - 150,000 200 7 200 10 200 14 200 21150,001 - 500,000 315 10 315 14 315 21 200 21500,001 & Over 500 14 500 21 315 21 200 21.01 Using the Sampling Plan To use the JCPenney Sampling Plan, follow the proceduresbelow:Locate the appropriate lot size on the sampling plan. The lot size (identifiable lot)is the total number of units that you start with. Read down the "Lot Size" columnof the JCPenney Sampling Plan until you find the range that includes the numberof items in the lot you are inspecting. For example, if your lot had 1,800 units, youwould use the "1201-3200" range to determine the number of units you shouldinspect.Determine the number of units to inspect. Look in the "Units to Inspect" column

corresponding to your lot size to locate the exact number of units you mustinspect. Be sure to select the number corresponding to the correct AQL for yourmerchandise. (The AQL may be found in the heading of the Quality Standards foryour product.)Determine the number of defective units you may accept.On the Sampling Plan, the number of defective units allowed is listed in the "Accept"column. There are two "Accept" columns, one for an AQL of 4.0 and one for an AQL of6.5.Example: Suppose you are Inspecting a lot size to 1,000 units. The quality standard forthe product being audited is 4.0. Look at the Sampling Plan to determine how many unitsyou would select for your sample and how many defective units are allowed. You will findthe following information:32 Units to Inspect

3 Defective Units AllowedSuppose the lot size has 5000 units. The quality standard is 4.0. Looking at the SamplingPlan, you should find the following:80 Units to Inspect7 Defective Units AllowedIf you find the number of defective units allowed or less, the lot can be accepted. Ifyou find more defective units than allowed, the lot must be rejected. If rejected, theentire lot must be 100% inspected and all defects corrected..02 Assuring Random Sampling Statistical auditing involves selecting a few units from the


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whole lot, doing a very thorough inspection of those few, and making a projection basedon the results. Therefore, it is extremely important that the units be selected by randomsampling. Ideally, this means that you select your sample from the entire lot.All units in the lot must be complete before you take your sample. As a production cut orlot starts coming out of production, you cannot take your sample from just the first25-50% of the lot. You can take a few of your samples from early production, butrepresentative samples must also be taken from the last part of the production.With apparel merchandise, you have some assurance of getting random sampling byselecting units in a ratio corresponding to the size and color breakdown. Here is anexample of how it could work:Table 5: Production Lot and Random SamplingProduction Lot:Lot Colors Lot Sizes Lot Total by Color8 10 12 14 16Red 85 125 165 85 40 500Blue 42 63 83 42 20 250White 42 63 83 42 20 250Total by Size 169 251 331 169 80 1000Random Sampling:Sample Colors Sample Sizes Sample Total by Color8 10 12 14 16Red 3 4 5 3 1 16Blue 1 2 3 1 1 8White 1 2 3 1 1 8Total by Size 5 8 11 5 3 32You do not have to be this exact when you select your sample. You do not have to spend a lot oftime breaking the selection down mathematically. However, if one --color is 50% of the total unitsand the other two colors are 25% each, then your total by color should somewhat represent thisratio, although the units selected per size need not be this exact. The point is that your sampleshould be a close representation of the ratio of color and size breakdown.Suppose you are auditing in a distribution center and the stock is received in cartons or asprepackaged stock. You need to know how many cartons you must open to select your samples.We recommend that you open at least 10% of the cartons. The cartons that you open should

include all sizes and colors in the shipment.At this point, you have done the following:Determined how many units to sample inspectSelected the unitsNow you are ready to begin the actual audit, which is the next step.Verification Of Merchandise.01 Verifying Merchandise Contracted You must verify the fact that the merchandise youare auditing is the merchandise that JCPenney contracted. You only need to compare oneunit to one of the following (as appropriate to your production lot):The JCPenney Merchandise SpecificationAn approved JCPenney Confirmation SampleYou should see that the sample unit meets all the criteria on the specificationsheet and/or is identical with the confirmation sample. Do not assume that the

stock is like the previous production ..02 Verifying Correct Labeling An important part of merchandise verification is checking alllabels to see that the proper ones are used. While various JCPenney labels look alike, thesmall wording may be incorrect. According to federal regulations, the fiber contentlabeling must meet FTC requirements, and the care instructions must be correct. Theexhibits on the following pages provide some specific information that may help you.However, see that your Supervisor provides you with a copy of the completerequirements.The Federal Government determines the correct fiber content labeling, as well as


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country of origin and other markings. We suggest that you contact your legalrepresentative to assure that all current labeling policies are being followed. TheJCPenney Company requires that all items be identified in compliance with allFederal Regulations, as well as with any additional JCPenney regulationsapplicable.Terms Implying Fiber ContentThe following lists were prepared by the Bureau of Textiles and Furs of the Federal TradeCommission. They use these lists in connection with their work in counseling industry about itsresponsibilities under the Act. They are being released to the public in the interest of obtainingvoluntary compliance with the Act and Regulations.The lists are not all-inclusive, and there are probably many more terms which imply fiber content.There has been no official pronouncement by the Commission in respect to any of the termslisted; whether or not any particular term implies fiber content would be a question to bedetermined in each case by the Commission and/or the courts.Generic Name Fiber TrademarkAcetate Acele Celaloft ChromspunCelacloud Celaperm EstronCelafil Celatow Type FCelaire Celatress Type KAcrylic Acrilan Creslan Orlon SyelleAcrilan Spectran Orlon ZefranAcrylast Orlon CantreceAnidexAramidAzlon VicaraGlass FiberglassElastonesteLastrileMetallic LameLurexModacrylic DynelFiber TVerel

NovoloidNylon Antron Caprolan NyloftBlac de Blancs Cumuloft Nylon 22Cadon IRC NylonNytril DarvanOlefin ProlenePBIPolyester Dacron KodelFiberfill VycronFortrelRayon * Avicron Dy-Lok Polynosic(see note below) Avlin Englo SoftgloAvril Fibro Spun-Lo

AVron Dortisan StrawnAV XL Kolorbon Super-CorduraBriglo Minifil Super LCivona Newbray TopelColoray Newlow TuftonCordura Ondelette TyronCorval Periglo ZantrelDul-ToneRubber


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Saran VelonSpandex CurelLycraVyreneSulfarTriacetate ArnelVinal VinylonVinyon RhovylNote: 'Lyocell' as an alternative to the generic name 'rayon' for a specific subclass of rayonfibers. 'Where the fiber is composed of cellulose precipitated from an organic solution inwhich no substitution of the hydroxyl groups takes place and no chemical intermediatesare formed, the term lyocell may me used as a generic description of the fiber.'FTC FIBER CONTENT LABELING TERMSTerms Descriptive of Methods of Manufacture, Construction or WeaveBalbriggan Duck Peau deSoieBalloon Cloth Dungaree PercaleBandanna Faille PercalineBatiste Flannel PimaBengal Flannelette PiqueBengaline Fleece PlisseBirdseye Gabardine PongeeBroadcloth Georgette PoplinBurlap Gingham Pure DyeButcher Habutai SateenCalico Homespun SatinCambric Honan SchappeCanton Flannel Jean SeersuckerCanvas Jersey SergeChambray Lame (or Lamme) ShantungCharmeuse Lawn SharkskinCheesecloth Lisle SurahChenille Longcloth SyntheticChiffon Madras Taffeta

Chino Man-made Fiber TarlatanChintz Marquisette TerryCorduroy Matelasse TickingCottonade Melton Tinsel YarnCovert Moire TulleCrepe Monk's Cloth TussahCrepe de Chine Mousseline de Soie TweedCretonne Muslin VelourCuprammonium Nainsook VelvetDamask Organdy VelveteenDenim Organza ViscoseDiap

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Quality Guideline of JCPENNY

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