1
Quilt As You Go
Blue Christmas
Finished size: is 46” x 64” after washing
All seams in this quilt are sewn with ¼ “ seam allowance.
Fabric Requirements:
•5/8 yard each of 3 different fabrics for Rail Fence
•2 ¼ yard for the borders ( includes top and back borders) You cut six 6.5” strips for
the top and six 6.5” strips for the back. So you can use different fabrics, they don’t
need to be 2 ¼ yards of continuous fabric.
•1 5/8 yard of Backing
•Throw size Quilter’s Dream Fusion fusible batting
By Jackie O'Brien,
ifthesethreadscouldtalk.com
• Sewing machine in good working order
• 1/4 inch seam allowance foot
• Walking foot
• Cotton Thread
• Pins
• Rotary cutter with a sharp blade
• 24 inch ruler
• Large cutting mat
Teacher : Jackie O’Brien, [email protected]
2
Blocks: From each of
the three 5/8 yard pieces
cut six 3 ½” strips Width
of fabric (WOF).
To create a rail fence pattern lay out blocks as
shown right.
Number the rows to be sure to add them in the
correct order.
Sew the blocks into rows, but DO NOT sew the
rows together.
Press seams in the rows one way alternating
direction for each row so they will nest when
sewing the rows together.
By Jackie O'Brien,
ifthesethreadscouldtalk.com
Cut strip sets into 9.5”
squares.
Sew one strip from
each group together.
Press seams to one
side.
From each strip set you will get four 9.5
blocks, with a total of 24 blocks.
3
If all my blocks were sewn together the top would
measure 36.5” x 54.5”. So I cut the backing fabric
WOF by 57.5 inches.
Cut the batting 38 x 56 (2inches
larger than the joined blocks would
be.) With the wrong side of the
backing up lay the batting with the
fusible side down. The backing will
still be larger than the batting. Fuse
the batting according to directions.
Then go back to iron and press again
from the fabric side to insure they
have fused.
By Jackie O'Brien,
ifthesethreadscouldtalk.com
With the batting side up, lay
down your first row of blocks.
Note: When I made this sample I
placed the first row all the way to top
and side edge of the fused backing.
I discovered that even with the
walking foot it pushed the row off
the edge. So it is best to center the
first row on the backing allowing
extra room on the sides. You can
then trim the top and sides once all
the rows are sewn down.
4
Lay row 2 on top of batting as it would
look if it were sewn, then flip up onto row
1 with right sides together.
Pin through row 1 and the backing
making sure seams nest nicely.
Take it to the sewing machine and
sew a ¼ seam following the edge
of the row as your guide.
Lay row 3 on top of batting as it would
look if it were sewn, then flip up onto
row 2 with right sides together as
before. Continue to add all the rows
this way.
By Jackie O'Brien,
ifthesethreadscouldtalk.com
5
Now, all the rows are sewn to the backing. At this time I “stitch in the ditch lengthwise
between the remain blocks and trim the edges.
Cut 6 borders strips 6.5” wide by WOF for the top and six for the back.
For the side borders you will need 4 strips 6.5” x 60” and 2 strips of batting 6.5” x 60”
For the top and bottom borders you will need 4 strips 6.5” x 54” and 2 strips of batting
6.5” x 54”
The border strips are larger than the quilt sides, they will be trimmed down after they
are sewn on.
Lay the batting strip on the ironing board fusible side up, and place a border fabric on
top and fuse with your iron. Do this for all 4 batting strips.
By Jackie O'Brien,
ifthesethreadscouldtalk.com
Right side of quilt top up
Right side of backing border up
Wrong side of top border with fused
batting up
Sew the sandwiched layers together using a
¼ inch seam allowance.