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Presented byPresented byRooma khalidRooma khalid
M.Phil pharmaceuticsM.Phil pharmaceutics(2014_2016)(2014_2016)
ISLAMIA UNIVERSITY ISLAMIA UNIVERSITY BWP BWP
CONTENTS Introduction
History of cosmetics
Raw materials and their classification
References
I NTRODUCTI ONI NTRODUCTI ON word derived from Greek KOSM TIKOS KOSM TIKOS means ‘having the
power,arrange,skilled in decorating. According to FDA-According to FDA-
Articles intended to be rubbed , poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into ,or otherwise applied to the human body, for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness or altering the appearance
The Beginning of The Beginning of Cosmet icsCosmet ics The first archaeological evidence of
cosmetics is found in Ancient Egypt in the year 4000 B.C.
Ancient Greeks, Romans and Egyptians used cosmetics out of mercury ,white lead, and myrrh
1515THTH -16 -16THTH CENTURY CENTURY Italy and France became the chief centers of cosmetic manufacturing
France begin to create new fragrances and cosmetics by blending ingredients
1919THTH CENTURY CENTURY Cosmetic deodorant was invented in 1888, by an unknown inventor from
Philadelphia. France develop chemical processes to replace fragrances made by natural method Zinc oxide widely used as facial powder- replaced mixtures of lead and copper
a
Cosmet ic r egulat ion Cosmet ic r egulat ion 77
Voluntry guidelines In the 1930s manufactures employed chemists in quality control
&development laboratories . In 1940 British govt start licensing toiletry &cosmetic factories.The perfumery manufactures association was formed in 1945
ConsumerismGrew in 1960s &1970s in USA and in UK &rest of Europe.
CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS CLASSIFICATION OF COSMETICS Cosmetics
Skin hair nail hygienic
Powder compact creams lotions colorantsFace powder
Body powder
Compact powder
Prickling heat powder
Cold cream
Vanishing cream
All purpose cream
Cleansing cream
Emollient cream
Foundation cream
Astringent
lotion
Lipstick
Hair remover
Depilator
Epilator
Shaving creams
Hair wave ppn
Hair dressing
Hair conditioner
Shampoo
Hair dyes, lotions
Eye lash (mascara)
Eye brow pencil
Eye lid inside
Nail lacquers
Lacquers remover
Nail polish
Cuticle remover
Dental Bath
Powder
Paste
Dentifrices
Lotion
Mouth
washes
Bath soap
RAW MATERIALS:1) Antibacterial agents and preservatives
2) Colorants
3) Skin feel agents
4) Hydrating substances
5) Ceramides and lipids
6) Moisturizers
7) Thickners
RAW MATERIALS8) Uv filters
9) Skin whitening: ellagic acid
10) Skin whitening: new hydroquinone combination
11) Alpha hydroxy acids
12) Surfactants
13) Anti-irritants for surfactant based products
RAW MATERIALS14) Seawater salts
15) Silicones-A key ingredient in cosmetic and toiletry formulations
16) Antioxidants
17) Dexpanthenol
18) Hair conditioners
RAW MATERIALS1.ANTI BACTERIAL AND PRESERVATIVES: The term “antibacterial agent” is largely used to qualify
chemical agents, which are included in cosmetics or household products to provide them. . .
I. Bactericidal or bacteriostatic activity
II.To protect the product by providing a preservative efficacy against micro-organisms.
RAW MATERIALSANTIBACTERIALS AND PRESERVATIVES:Historically, the first antibacterial products developed
were skin wash products such as soap bars, derived from deodorant soap bar.
The purpose was not only to clean the skin but also to reduce its microbial flora.
RAW MATERIALSTOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS:Triclocarboan (TCC) Most
antibacterial soap bar contains TCC as the active ingredient.
Formaldehyde In the past, antibacterial soap bars were prepared with formaldehyde. These were very effective for hospital use, but the use of formaldehyde declined due to toxicity reasons.
RAW MATERIALS TOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS: Triclosan
Currently a max of 1%of the liquid soaps are formulated with triclosan.
Safety of the regular use of TCC and triclosan were extensivly discussed by FDA.
RAW MATERIALS TOPICAL ANTIMICROBIAL PRODUCTS: The FDA prepared a final monograph in 1994 in which
topical antimicrobial products were classified in three categories:
1.Antiseptic hand wash or health care personnel hand wash.
2.Patient preoperative skin preparation.
3.Surgical hand scrub.
Most commonly used preservatives
Preservative name
Activity spectrum
Compatible with
Inactivated by
Optimum PH
Parabens: esters of benzoic acid
Fungi, gram positive
cationic Anionic, nonionic, proteins
<7
Imidazolydinil urea Broad, weak against fungi
Anionic, nonionic, cationic, proteins
4-9
Preservative name
Activity spectrum
Compatible with
Inactivated by Optimum PH
Diazolydinil urea isothiazolones
broad Anionic, nonionic, cationic
Bleach, high PH 4-8
formaldehyde broad Anionic, nonionic, cationic
T>60 C 4-9
Hydantoin benzalkonium Cl
Gram positive, gram negative, weak against olds
Nonionic, cationic
Anionic, proteins, soaps
4-9
2-bromo-2-nitropropane 1,3-diol
broad Anionic, nonionic, cationic
Heat, high PH, cysteine, aluminium
<6
RAW MATERIALS 2.WATER: It is the most widely used raw materials in the
manufacture of cosmetics. Water is used as a solvent for many ingredients of
cosmetics.
RAW MATERIALS3.COLORANTS:The use of coloring agents for decorative purpose is one
of the earliest cultural accomplishments of humankind.The dramatic boom in the development of color industry
led to numerous new colorants and pigmentsInorganic pigments are used in large quantities
RAW MATERIALS3. COLORANTS:In coloring decorative cosmetics several products are of
vital ipmortance:
e.g titanium dioxide is most important white pigmentIron oxides and iron hydroxides for the colors yellow,red
and black,ultramarine especially in blue and violet,prussian blue,coal black.
RAW MATERIALS3.COLORANTS:By combining iron oxides with titanium dioxide various
brown tones can be created in makeup and toning creamsThe most significant colorant is composed of the organic
colorants and pigmentsMainly these are
azo,triarylmethane,anthraquinone,xanthene or phthalocyanine colorants and pigments
RAW MATERIALS CLASSIFICATION OF COLORANTS: Based on its solubilty there are three classes
1.Colorants that are soluble in the medium being colored(usually water or oil soluble)
2.Pigments and colour lakes that are not soluble in the medium being colored
3.Water dispersible colorants
RAW MATERIALSAlthough there are approximately 160 approved cosmetic
colorants ,but only a limited number of them are really used
RAW MATERIALSCOLORANT GROUPS: WATER SOLUBLE COLORANTS: Creams,soap,toothpaste gel,mouthwash,bath
products OIL SOLUBLE COLORANTS: Oil products and soap PIGMENTS: Makeup powder,lipstick,soap,toothpaste
RAW MATERIALSCOLORANT GROUPS:COLOR LAKES:
Eye makeup,lipstickWATER DISPERSIBLE PIGMENTS:
Soap
RAW MATERIALS4.SKIN FEEL AGENTS:Substances conferring sensorial properties to a skin care
product,triggering pleasant perception during application onto the skin and after use
It includes:
lipophillic materials,silicones,water soluble polymeric substances and their cationic derivatives
RAW MATERIALS CFTA CLASSIFICATION:CFTA divides skin conditioning agents into various
groups e.g
emollients,occlusive materials and miscellanous substances including cationic macromolecules and surfactants
RAW MATERIALS EMOLLIENTS:Cosmetic ingredients which help to maintain the
soft,smooth and pliable apperance of the skinObtained from natural origin or by chemical synthesis
RAW MATERIALSEMOLIENT CLASSIFICATION:
1: polar substances(esters and triglycerides)
2:non polar substances(paraffins and iso paraffins)As a class they comprise lipids,oils and their
derivatives,fatty acid esters,lanolin derivatives and silicones.
RAW MATERIALSLIPOPHILLIC EMOLLIENTS AND OCCULUSIVES:They comprise vegetable oils ,triglycerides,mineral
oil,natural or synthetic waxes,fatty acid esters,lanolin oil and its derivatives
Commonly used in liquid skin cleansing products
RAW MATERIALSHYDROPHLLIC LIPIDS:Preferred for foaming skin cleansing preprationsIt includes ethoxylated glycerides,low ethoxylates
triglycerides,ethoxylated mono and di glycerides,propoxylated fatty alcohols
RAW MATERIALS LANOLIN:Extracted from sheep wool greaseComplex mixtures of esters of high molecular weight
lanolin alcohols and lanolin fattyacidsFree lanolin alcohols ,acids and lanolin hydrocarbons are
minor75 mole ethoxylated lanolin is recommended as skin
conditioner in soaps and liqiud cleansing products
RAW MATERIALSWAXES:Some common waxes used in cosmetics are beeswax,
candelilla, carnauba, polyethylene, and paraffinCommonly used in lip balms and sticks, waxes function
as structuring agents, giving the stick enough rigidity to stand up on its own, as well as barrier properties
RAW MATERIALSWAXES:Often waxes are combined with compatible oils to
achieve the desired softness.Waxes are particularly useful in hand creams and mascara
emulsions for their thickening and waterproofing properties.
RAW MATERIALSSOFT PARAFFIN:Soft paraffin – mixture of hydrocarbon obtained from
petroleumTwo types- yellow and white soft paraffin Emollient in nature Hydrophobic in nature –produce occlusive film which
prevents water loss from skin
RAW MATERIALS LECITHIN:Natural mixture of polar and neutral lipidsIt softens,nourishes the skin and provides a non greasy
long lasting skin feel and quality(creaminess,richness and slipperiness)
RAW MATERIALSSILICONE DERIVATIVES:Mainly used in body cleansing productsIt includes:
Dimethicones(used in liquid cleansers)
Cyclomethicone(dry emollients)
RAW MATERIALS HUMECTANTS:Cosmetic ingredients intended to increase the water
content of top layers of skinExamples includes Glycerine,propylene
glycol,sorbitol,xylitolEthoxylated methyl glucose,lactic acid,sodium lactateConditioning humectants i.e chitosan
RAW MATERIALS6.HYDRATING SUBSTANCES:They are used in cosmetic products to retard moisture loss
from the product during use and to increase the moisture content in material
Function is generally perfomed by humectants and hygroscopic substances
Target areas are dry hair and dry skin
RAW MATERIALSCHEMICAL CLASSES OF HYDRATING
SUBSTANCES: They include: butylene glycol glycerine lactic acid propylene glycol sorbitol urea panthenol
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES 1. BUTYLENE GLYCOL:
Used as humectant in topical products
Oftenly used in hair sprays and setting lotions
Alcohol retards loss of aromas and preserves cosmetics
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES2.GLYCERINE: Used as
solvent,plasticizer,sweetner,lubricant and preservative 20-25% conc are used in moisturizers for treatment of
dry skin conditions
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES3.LACTIC ACID: It has been used in topical preparations because of
its buffering properties and water binding capacity It is also used for the treatment of dandruff,
keratosis,dry skin and acne Also to improve the clinical appearance of skin
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES4.PANTHENOL: It is an alcohol which is converted in tissues to D-
pantothenic acid(Vitamin B5),a component of coenzyme A in the body
It is widely used in cosmetic industry for its moisturizing and soothing properties
It is found in topical treatment for rhinitis,skin repair and sunburn.
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES5.PROPYLENE GLYCOL: It is widely used in cosmetic manufacturing as
a solvent and vehicle It has been tried in treatment of number of skin
disorders including ichthyosis and seborrheic dermatitis Useful for treatment of skin irritation and
sensitization reactions
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES6.PROTEINS: Proteins and aminoacids used for cosmetics are
based on natural sources Collegen is the traditional protein used in
cosmetics But their inclusion in cosmetics may require
stronger preservatives
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES7.SORBITOL: It occurs naturally in fruits. It is used as sweetner in toothpastes. Sorbitol, glucose, and other sugars are also
commonly used to hydrate the skin.
RAW MATERIALS>HYDRATING SUBSTANCES8.UREA:
It is used as 10% cream for the treatment of ichthyosis and hyperkeratotic skin disorders
and in lower concentrations for the treatment of dry skin
RAW MATERIALS7.CERAMIDES AND LIPIDS:The majority of emollients used in personal care and
beauty items are fats and oils, also called lipids. Many of the major cosmetic companies are moving
away from animal-based materials to renewable vegetable-based materials.
Cocunut oil and palm kernel oil are often used.
RAW MATERIALS7.CERAMDES AND LIPIDS:Petroleum-based emollients such as petroleum jelly and
mineral oil are found in many formulations.Silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone are
often added to increase slip and emolliency. Long-chain alcohols, also called fatty alcohols, are useful
as emollients and emulsion stablizers.
RAW MATERIALS 8.MOISTURIZERS:Moisturizers are generally polar materials that are
hygroscopic in nature they hold onto waterGlycerin is a very cost-effective ingredient used to help
reduce TEWL.Aloe contains a mixture of polysaccharides,
carbohydrates, and minerals, is an excellent moisturizer
RAW MATERIALS 9.THICKNERS:By incorporating enough wax into a thin lotion, a thick
cream can be formed. Many thickeners are polymers e.g cellulose and carbopol.
Carrageenan, pectin, and locust bean gum are all examples of cosmetic thickeners.
RAW MATERIALS10.ACTIVE INGREDIENTS:Materials that work physiologically within the skin or aid
in protecting the skin are called active ingredients.Fruit acids are an example of an active material. Also
called alpha hydroxyacids.They have the ability to penetrate the skin.Thousands of cosmetic actives are used to affect the skin
in a variety of ways.
RAW MATERIALS10.ACTIVE NGREDIENTS:Some active materials are added to skin treatments to
protect the skin from the environment. Dimethicone and petrolatum are examples of skin protectants.
Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are important ingredients because of their anti-acne activity.
RAW MATERIALS 11.SUNSCREENS:Sunscreens are a class of compounds that protect the skin
from ultraviolet radiation.Octyl methoxycinnamate, octyl salycilate, titanium
dioxide and avobenzone are some important topical sunscreens.
They can be classified depending upon the wavelengths they absorb.
RAW MATERIALS11.SUNSCREENS:Benzophenone 4, a water-soluble UV filter, is commonly
used to protect the color of cosmetic products.
RAW MATERIALS 12.PRESERVATIVES:Most cosmetic products require the addition of
preservative to prevent microbial contamination and rancidity.
Parabens and ester of parabenzoic acid are the most commonly used because of their effectiveness against gram-positive bacteria.
Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against gram negative strains.
RAW MATERIALS12.PRESERVATIVES:
Antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) are also added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients as well as protect the skin from free-radical damage.
RAW MATERIALSCLASSIFICATION OF PRESERVATIVES:
Based on the chemical nature preservatives are classified as follows:
1.ORGANIC ACIDS:
Benzoic acid,formic acid,salicylic acid,P-hydroxy benzoic acid.
2.ALCOHOLS:
Ethyl alcohol,isopropyl alcohol,chlorobutanol
RAW MATERIALSCLASSIFICATION OF PRESERVATIVES:
3.ALDEHYDES:
Formaldehyde,cinnamic aldehyde
4.PHENOLIC COMPOUNDS:
Cresol, P-Choloro m-cresol phenol
REFERENCESREFERENCEShttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_cosmeticshttp://www.cyonic-nemeton.com/Cosmetics.htmlhttp://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/history.phpCosmetics and Perfumes, Egypt, 10,000 BCE by Mindy Cohen, 1999A History of Fragrance ©1995 Kathi Keville and Mindy Green A Hand book of cosmetics by B.M.Mithal & R.N.SharmaPoucher’s perfumes, Cometics and Soaps 10 th edition