Recipes - Olaf's Kitchen-A Master Chef Shares His Passion (PDF)

8/13/2019 Recipes - Olaf's Kitchen-A Master Chef Shares His Passion (PDF)

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A Master Chef Shares His Passion

O L A F M E R T E N S

John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd.


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Copyright 2008 by Olaf Mertens

All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyright herein may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means

graphic, electronic or mechanical without the prior written permission of the publisher. Any request for photocopying, recording, taping or

information storage and retrieval systems of any part of this book shall be directed in writing to The Canadian Copyright Licensing Agency

(Access Copyright). For an Access Copyright license, visitwww.accesscopyright.caor call toll free 1-800-893-5777.

Care has been taken to trace ownership of copyright material contained in this book. The publisher will gladly receive any information that

will enable them to rectify any reference or credit line in subsequent editions.

Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Data

Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Data

Mertens, Olaf

Olafs kitchen : a master chef shares his passion / Olaf Mertens.

Includes index.

ISBN 978-0-470-15566-0 (bound).ISBN 978-0-470-15565-3 (pbk.)

1. Cookery. I. Title.

TX714.M467 2008 641.5 C2008-900608-9

Production Credits

Cover and interior design: Ian Koo

Typesetting: Natalia Burobina

Interior photo-imaging: Jason Vandenberg

Front cover photo: Satravath Pradalokaew

Back cover photo: Morgan Whibley

Interior photography: Satravath Pradalokaew (colour photos); Morgan Whibley (black and white photos)

Printer: Quebecor WorldTaunton

John Wiley & Sons Canada, Ltd.

6045 Freemont Blvd.

Mississauga, Ontario

L5R 4J3

Printed in the United States

1 2 3 4 5 QW 12 11 10 09 08
http://www.accesscopyright.ca/http://www.accesscopyright.ca/


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To my lovely wife and best friend: Jennifer, a.k.a. my

food critic.

To the greatest boys any dad could have: Nicolas,

Taylor, and Owen. Will one of you please consider

becoming a chef?

To the rest of my family: You are a component

without which all of this would not be nearly as good

a journey.I come from generations of foodies whose talents

range from being a German cook in eighteenth-

century English manors to running a small, local

butcher shop in the west end of Toronto during the

Depression. It is through these past generations that

food and cooking have become part of my roots.

I cook because food is, and always has been, an

integral part of my being. Its what brings my family

and friends together around the table to share thedays events, tell stories, laugh, and live life. For me,

food is the real magic of life.


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ConentsSay No to Fast Food! ...49

Faster-Cooking Foods ...51

Veal and Mushrooms ...52

Vietnamese Caramelized Chicken ...53

Spicy Peanut Chicken ...54

Bourbon Chicken and Shrimp Risotto ...55

Mushroom and Spinach Strudel ...57

Bratwurst-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin...59

South Beach Sandwiches ...60

Olafs Wiener Schnitzel ...61

Handmade and Delicate ...63

Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings...65

Focaccia Dumplings in Oyster Mushroom Sauce ...66

Potato Dumplings and Lobster in Sherry Tarragon Sauce ...69

Curried Shellfi sh with Red Beet Spaetzle ...71

Spaetzle and Clams in White Wine ...72

Whole Wheat Spaetzle with Mushrooms ...73

Beef Tenderloin with Blue Cheese Spaetzle and Port Wine

Reduction ...75

Crab and Smoked Salmon Ravioli with Maple Glaze ...76

Veal Ravioli ...77

Fresh and Light ...79

Fish...81

Seafood Soup ...82

Clams Casino Style ...83

Salmon with Cucumber Spaghetti and Mustard Mousse ...84

Simple Salmon with Crudits Salad ...86

Whiskey Maple Salmon with Potato Lox ...87

Sole on Fridays ...88

Crab-Crusted Cedar-Planked Halibut ...90

Italian-Scented Cod with Potato Strings ...92

Acknowledgments ...9

Introduction ...11

Standards ...15

Greetings from the Kitchen ...17

First Bites ...19

Tomato Salad Shooters ...21

Tomato Melon Salad with Strawberries and Olive Dust ...22

Potato Crisps with Herbed Feta Dip ...24

White Asparagus Three Ways ...26

Herbal SchnappsCured Salmon Sticks ...29

Fancy Fish and Chips ...30

Duck Empanadas with Salsa Verde ...31

Mini Duck Burgers ...33

Fresh from the Earth ...35

Wholesome Vegetable Cooking...37

Butternut Squash Soup with Muesli Popcorn Clusters ...39

White Asparagus Soup with Root Vegetable Crisps ...40

Sauerkraut Crme Soup ...42

Sweet and Sour SpiceInfused Tomatoes ...43

Confi t Vegetable Parcel with Goat Cheese Dip ...45

Scalloped Kohlrabi ...46

Savory Apple Couscous ...47


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Seared, Grilled, and Roasted ...95

Meat and Poultry...97

Chicken and Veal Involtini ...98

Stuffed Cornish Hen ...100

Rum-Spiked Jerk Chicken ...102

Chicken Stuffed with Orange-Braised Duck ...105

All-Canadian Cheeseburger ...106

Beef Wellington Burger ...107

Beef Fillet Wrapped In Herb Collar ...108

My RibsMy Home-Brewed BBQ Sauce ...110

Braised Meals ...113

One-Big-Pot Dishes...115

Smoked Pork and Carrot Stew ...117

Veal Paprikash ...118

Veal in Horseradish and Gooseberries ...119

Soured Beef Short Ribs ...120

Beef Roll-Ups with Tomato Fondue Sauce ...122

Smoked Turkey Thighs with Lentils and Pea Pesto ...123

Turkey Thigh Osso Buco ...124

Curried Chicken ...126

Save Water, Use Beer! ...129

Beer Cuisine...131

Spicy Stout Beer Garlic Shrimp ...132

Mussels and Smoked Salmon in Wheat Beer...133

Smoked Trout with Wheat Beer Sabayon ...135

Beer-Brined Roast Chicken ...136

Smoked Pork Baked in Beer Rye Bread ...138

Festive Ham with Maple Stout and Brat Apple Marmalade ...140

Drunken Soya Glazed Ribs ...142

The New Pre-dessert ...145

Cheese Courses...147

Baked Saganaki with Date and Fig Salad ...148

Baked Brie and Roasted Apples ...150

Blue Cheese and Walnut Apple Bake with

Peppered Honey ...151

Goat Cheese and Gouda Dip with Tomato Jam ...152

Pick-Up Sticks with Liquid Parmesan ...154

Gratin Cheese Fondue with Red Wine Hazelnut

and Quince Relish ...155

Goat Cheese Brl Cake ...156

Belgian Waffl e Gratin with Thyme-Infused Sugar Beet

Syrup ...158

The Sugar Rush ...161

Desserts...163

Nougat Mousse with Rum Balls ...164

Chocolate Soup ...166

Semolina Mousse with Niagara Fruits ...168

Tree Cake and Rum Berries ...170

Marzipan Poppy Seed Bundt Cake with Wild Blueberry

Compote ...172

Chocolate Sauerkraut Cake with Boozy Cherries ...174

Butter Cake with Roast Rhubarb and Strawberries ...175

No Campfi re Smores ...176

Kitchen Basics ...179

Vegetable Stock ...182

Sweet Orange Sauce ...185

Port Wine Reduction ...186

BBQ Sauce ...188

Olafs Black Spice Rub ...189

Braised Duck Leg ...191

Basic Spaetzle ...192

Whole Wheat Spaetzle ...193

Red Beet Spaetzle ...194

Basic Risotto ...195

Basic Ravioli ...196

Strudel Dough ...197

Flatbread ...198

Blender Dressings and Vinaigrettes ...201

Key Components of Dressings and Vinaigrettes ...205

Citrus Vinaigrette ...206

Red Wine Vinaigrette ...207

Wheat Germ Dressing ...208

White Raisin, Caulifl ower, and Caper Dressing ...210

Index...213


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Thank you toDonna, my ghost writer, who for many years has made my recipes make sense. Many thanks.

To my family, Mom, Marcus, Gary, Marty, Alison, Louise, Chris, Leah, Jade, Hannah, the Mertens

family, the Urquhart clan, the Whiteheads, the Whibleys, the Tischmeiers, the Pfaffs, and Haussner

families.

To my partner Brian, for his friendship and all the years of support and teaching me to enjoy the

journey.

To Christiane Cote and Leah Marie Fairbank, and the entire Wiley Publishing team that has made

this dream come true.

To Rob, who has worked and supported me for so long. Mark, my friend and partner, as well

as the entire HIP Restaurants familyall the chefs, cooks, pastry chefs, servers, bartenders,

dishwashers, cleaners, and especially to the patrons who come to our restaurants.

The Book Makers: the photographers, Morgan Whibley and Max Satravath Pradalokaew (via

Thailand)your creativity and talents show in each and every photo. You put my visions into

pictures.

My team of chefs: Desi Desiree, Nic, Patrick, Alex, Gorbi Misha, Christine, Arthur, Luther, Ali,

Jonathan, Jackie, Trevor, Andrew, and Logan. Each of you makes me a better chef.

My colleagues and friends: Michelin Man Bernd Siener, Ted Reader, Michael and Anna Olson,

John Sleeman, Brad Long, and Manny Tsouvallas. For years weve kept an eye on each other.

Lucky for all of us.

To the farmers, local food suppliers, Sean Kelly and the food makerswhat would my plates look

like without your expertise and working the land to give us the best, right in our backyard?

To all the kitchen stewards for keeping our kitchens spotless. This is just a bit of recognition, but

you deserve so much more.

I would like to thank my friends and anyone I may have forgotten that enjoyed the culinary journey

with me. Its not over yet.


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IntroducionMy entire life I knew I was going to be a chef. The power that food has to bring people together

around a common table to enjoy stories, laughs, and great meals has always been revered in my

family. It is one of the most important bonds of life.

I have been cooking for some twenty years now, not only as a chef but also as one of many in

a long line of cooks. I thought I knew about all the culinary talents of my heritage until recently,

when I found out that my great grand-aunt was a cook in some of Germanys and Englands

great manors. Her name was Martha Tischmeier and she was born in northeast Germany. I was

very fortunate to be given her spectacularly hand-scripted cooking journal that dates back to the

late 1800s and early 1900s. It is this journal that has inspired me to tell the story of my history

and unique look upon, and approach to, German cuisine. This book is the journey of my life told

through food and family.

Lets start at the beginning. I was born in Berlin, Germany, and immigrated to Canada at two

years of age. It was my parents wish that I maintain both the language and culture of Germany,

so I attended German school on weekends and celebrated all the various German customs

while growing up. Our family opened a German food shop where we offered typical German

delicacies, magazines, and homemade goodies. Throughout grade school I was lucky enough

to spend most of my summers with my grandparents and aunts. It is during these visits that

I watched and learned the great secrets of their regional cooking. When I was a youngster,

German ways were all around me. At the same time, I was learning the life of a Canadian boy. As

an adult looking back I am aware of what a wonderful thing it was to have been able to enjoy the

best of both worlds. It is in keeping with these two worlds that I have been able to develop my

individuality and signature foods.

As a teenager nearing the end of high school in a suburb of Toronto, Canada, I made the

decision to pursue my childhood dream of becoming a chef. I knew from my upbringing that the

educational system in Germany, in particular the culinary trade, was far superior to the one in

Canada. Picking up and moving to Berlin on my own when most of my friends were heading off

to party at college and university didnt initially seem like a big deal. I remember that time in my

life with so many emotions and now truly understand the phrase it was the best of times, it was

the worst of times.

Working as an eighteen-year-old apprentice in Berlin during the mid 1980s took me from cooking

in Europes top luxury hotels and fi ne dining restaurants to grabbing a snack at the local butcher

shop or animbiss sausage after a late-night bar crawl. These great food memories always remind

me to cook deliciously, or toimmer lecker kochen, as we say in German.


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12 | Olafs Kitchen


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Introduction | 13

In the mid to late eighties, European cuisine, and more specifi cally German cuisine, was moving

from the traditional service of big, hearty food portions to the more refi ned and artful presentations

of nouvelle cuisine. It was an exceptional time to be in a oneMichelin star kitchen watching and

learning while such an important movement took over the way food was cooked and served.

This unique opportunity was further enhanced when, in 1987, I experienced Germanys 750th

birthday party. Almost every night in our hotel there was a celebration of some kind to mark the

monumental occasion. It was at these events that I truly learned how to be a buffet, banquet,

and gala dinner specialist. It was overwhelming for my chef to have to come up with the new and

innovative creations that would make each event a bit better than the last. I was a part of every

celebration and wrote down every dish served. Talk about being at the right place at the right time

in history. To make it even more signifi cant, Germany was still a divided country, and Berlin was

very much a divided city. The opportunity to take part in the celebration as a cook in what was

then East Berlin was a fantastic part of that year.

Those were some of the hardest, yet some of the most fantastic, years of my life. They are the roots

of some of my favorite food recipes and defi nitely my favorite food stories. Now that I am back at

home in Canada, I use the classic German techniques I learned and combine them with the worlds

best ingredients, most of which are here in the southern Ontario region that is my backyard.

In the following chapters you will travel with me to Germany, Bavaria, Austria, and then fi nally back to

Canada and the family table that I so dearly treasure. Each trip has been a culinary adventure that

has taken my cuisine to new heights. The recipes in this book represent my year of apprenticeship

in the grand hotels of Berlin, my tough and demanding schedule in the Steigenberger Hotels, and

the Master Chef course that proved to be a great maturing and very humbling experience. I spent

months of study immersed in the history of cuisine development and discussions and arguments

about culinary theory.

All of my trips abroad have inevitably brought me back to my home in southern Ontario, where I have

all the fresh, quality ingredients I could ask for. I have an abundance of wonderful produce, meats,

fi sh, and other food treasures in this part of the world. Ontario white asparagus and strawberries,

Muskoka wild blueberries, Holland Marsh fresh vegetables, Caledons selection of potatoes and

wild mushrooms and, of course, Niagara region fruits, fl owers, and probably the best selection of

wines in the world. All of these are but a few of the delights at my fi ngertips.

Let me show you how I marry my cultures and the roots of my cooking with the passion and pride

of being in my own kitchen. My unique style brings a heritage of German cuisine together with

contemporary Canadian fl air. These are the dishes that people have been talking about. Try them

out and come along for a ride.

I hope you enjoy the journey.

Olaf


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S anrdsAll recipes are prepared for 4 portionsunless otherwise indicated.

All ingredients should be fresh and in prime condition, preferably organic, and even better if

locally grown.

All ingredients need to be cleaned, washed, and stored properly until you are ready to start

cooking.

All herbs are fresh.

Since most spices only last for six months in your cupboard, buy fresh and grind them yourself

in a coffee grinder or pestle.

Pepper is always freshly ground, be it white or black.

Chicken or beef broths wil l give true fl avors when purchased as low-sodium or salt-freethen

you can control the salt!

All eggs are large, preferably organic for optimum fl avor, and room temperature.

Do not refrigerate tomatoes, and use vine-ripened for ultimate fl avor.

White bread crumbs refers to crust-less, day-old white bread, ground into crumbs.

Some cheeses (like Parmesan), lemon, or orange zest are best achieved using a raspthe

kitchens best friend!

Salt is sea salt, unless otherwise indicated.


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Greetings from the Kitchen

Greusse aus die Kuche!Greetings from the kitchen is a phrase borrowed

from the executive chef I worked under in Berlin. I remember the fi rst time

I heard him use it; he was welcoming a newly seated table of diners by

personally delivering the customary bite-size introduction to multicourse

menus. I was struck by the chefs attentiveness and how it immediately

put guests at ease while simultaneously giving them a hint of what the

kitchen had to offer. So, now, every chance I get I like to personally greet

my guests and welcome them with the echo of my mentors words and

one of my own small palate teasers. Here are a few of my favorite one- or

two-bite fi rst-course offerings.

Greeings rom the Kitchen


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Firt Btes

First Bites

Tomato Salad Shooters ...21

Tomato Melon Salad

with Strawberries and Olive Dust ...22

Potato Crisps with Herbed Feta Dip ...24

White Asparagus Three Ways ...26

Herbal Schnapps-Cured Salmon Sticks ...29

Fancy Fish and Chips ...30

Duck Empanadas with Salsa Verde ...31

Mini Duck Burgers ...33


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Hot summer nights are the perfect time to enjoy the

fi rst tomatoes of the season. These infused vodka

shots and the tomato salad skewers

are a fun way to start a festive evening.

Be sure to make extra skewers because everyone is

guaranteed to want more than one shot.

Tmato Slad S hooers

First Bites | 21


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Tomato Salad Shooters

Tomato-Infused Vodka

10 large vine-ripened tomatoes, very overripe

4 oz. vodka

5 basil leaves

1 tsp. herbal vinegar

1 1/2 tbsp. orange juice, or the juice from half an orange

1 tsp. orange zest, or the zest from half an orange

1 tbsp. sugar

1 tsp. sea salt

1 clove garlic

dash cayenne pepper to taste

Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend until

tomatoes are coarsely chopped. Strain the mixture into a bowl

through three layers of cheesecloth then gather the corners of

the cloths together and tie them with string so that all the pulp

is gathered in a pouch. Secure the pouch so it dangles from a

refrigerator shelf and can drip into a bowl beneath. Leave to drip

overnight.

Tomato Salad Skewers

1 piece Buffalo mozzarella

1/4 cup olive oil

sea salt

pepper

8 skewers or swizzle sticks

8 vine-ripened cherry tomatoes8 shooter glasses, chilled

8 sprigs oregano

Tear the cheese into small cubes. Toss with olive oil, salt, and

pepper.

Make garnishes for the shots by layering tips of the skewers

with a cheese cube, a basil leaf, and a tomato.

Pour the infused vodka evenly into chilled shooter glasses, drop

in a sprig of oregano, and garnish with a salad skewer.

For a bit of a twist, use test tubes instead of shooter glasses.

The test tubes can be stood up in cucumber slices that have

been hollowed out with a melon baller.

Tip:Small bits of pulp may leak through the cheesecloth as the last of the vodka

drips though. Pour the vodka into the shooter glasses slowly and carefully to

avoid disturbing any sediment that may have formed at the bottom of the bowl.

This will produce nice clear-looking shots.

22 | Olafs Kitchen


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Tomato Melon Salad

with Strawberries and Olive Dust

Strawberries and Olive Dust

1 pint strawberries, halved

1 tbsp. sugar

salt and pepper

1/4 cup olive oil

1 cup calamata olives, pitted

Preheat oven to 250F.

Toss the strawberry pieces in the sugar, salt, pepper, and olive

oil, spread them out on a baking sheet lined with parchment

paper, and oven-dry for 20 minutes. Set aside to cool.

Spread the olives on a separate parchment paperlined baking

sheet and oven-dry for 2 hours, or until the olives are hard. Setaside to cool.

Once cooled, chop the olives into fi ne crumbs.

Tomato Melon Salad

8 oz. watermelon, cut into pieces2 oz. ouzo

1 cucumber, sliced

2 pints vine-ripened grape tomatoes

1 pint gs, sliced

1 bunch radish sprouts

1 head Boston bibb lettuce

4 oz. feta cheese, crumbled

2 tsp. lemon zest, or the zest from 1 lemon

1/2 cup chopped oregano1/2 cup sliced basil

1/2 cup sliced mint

sea salt

ground pepper

Toss the watermelon and ouzo in a small dish and set aside to

soak for 30 minutes. Combine all remaining salad ingredients,

including the strawberries and the Olive Dust, and portion into

four individual bowls. Dress with Red Wine Vinaigrette (page207) just prior to serving.


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I love working with fruits

and vegetables! Especially

tomatoesthey are so versatile. The addition of feta, strawberries, and

Olive Dust to this dish makes each mouthful an explosion of fl avors.

Tmato Melon Slad with Srawberries nd Olive Dut

24 | Olafs Kitchen


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Potato Crispswith Herbed Feta Dip

Recent travels to Greece have left me duly inspired. Homemade

olive-oil potato chips and a fantastic feta cheese dip. What more

can you ask for? As they say in Greece: Yamass!

Potato Crisps

1 russet potato

1 yellow-esh potato

1 sweet potato

1 purple potato

3 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice from 1 lemon

1 quart olive oil, or enough to make about 3 inches in aheavy-bottomed pot

sea salt

Slice the potatoes on the thinnest setting of a mandolin and

soak in a bowl of cold water and lemon juice for one hour.

Carefully heat a large pot of olive oil to 275F. Line a baking

sheet with parchment paper and paper towel; place nearby,

with a slotted spoon or mesh ladle. Completely dry the potatoslices and begin frying in small batches until golden brown and

crispy. Drain on the prepared baking sheet and, while still warm,

season with sea salt. Keep warm.

Herbed Feta Dip

2 cups feta cheese, crumbled

1 cup yogurt

sea salt

cracked black pepper

1/4 cup parsley, nely sliced1/4 cup basil, nely sliced

1/4 cup oregano, nely chopped

6 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice from 2 lemons

4 tsp. lemon zest, or the zest from 2 lemons

1/2 cup olive oil

Combine all ingredients except the olive oil in a bowl and

whisk.

Slowly drizzle in the olive oil so that the mixture emulsifi es to

a thick, dressing-like consistency. Adjust salt and pepper to

taste.

Tip:The sugar content of the sweet potatoes will cause them to brown faster

than the other potatoes. Its better to cook them separately so that they do

not burn.


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Oh, asparagus! Because of its stringy skin and

light, bitter taste, white asparagus is slightly

more challenging to prepare than its green counterpart. Here is

a simple way to blanch it, followed by three great ways to use it.

Try one or try them allyou wont be disappointed!

White Asparagus Three Ws

White Asparagus Three Ways

2 lbs. white asparagus12 cups water

1 cup sugar

1/2 cup salt

6 tbsp. orange juice, or the juice from 2 oranges


1 bay leaf

Remove outer layer from all the asparagus stalks with a vegetable

peeler and cut approximately one inch off the bottoms.

In a large pot, bring the water to a rolling boil and add the remaining

ingredients. Add the asparagus and blanch for 3 minutes or until

tender when poked with a knife. Transfer the asparagus to an

ice bath and allow to cool. Reserve the cooking broth.

Tip: To make a fine, quick soup, add the asparagus ends and peelings to

the leftover cooking broth. Simmer, season to taste with salt and pepper, then

pure.

First Bites | 27


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Roasted Espresso Balsamic Paint

1 cup sugar

1 cup balsamic vinegar

1/2 cup espresso or instant espresso powder

1 tsp. salt

1/2 tsp. white pepper

1/3 blanched asparagus


Combine the sugar and balsamic vinegar in a small pot and

simmer over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add the coffee and

simmer for another 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Place the asparagus in a shallow baking dish, cover with half

the espresso balsamic paint, and bake for 5 minutes. Use the

remaining paint as a dip when serving.

Sweet and Sour Asparagus

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup herb-avored vinegar

1 cup asparagus cooking water


1/2 cup carrots, nely diced

1/2 cup celery, nely diced

1/2 cup red and yellow peppers, nely diced

1/4 cup chives, sliced

1/4 cup thyme, chopped, for garnish

Combine sugar and vinegar in a small pot and simmer over

medium heat until reduced by half; the mixture should have

a syrup-like consistency. Add asparagus cooking water and

simmer for an additional 5 minutes. Place asparagus in a fl at

glass dish; add carrots, celery, and peppers. Pour broth over

vegetables, cover, and let marinate in the refrigerator for at least

24 hours. Garnish with sliced chives and thyme just before

serving.

Asparagus Frites with Herb Sauce

2 cups our

2 egg whites, whisked

1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated2 cups fresh bread crumbs


olive oil

Use the three-bowl method: put the fl our in one dish, the egg

whites in a second dish, and toss the cheese and bread crumbs

together in a third dish.

Dredge all but the tips of the asparagus spears in the fl our, thendip into the egg whites, and fi nally coat with the cheese and

bread crumb mixture. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place coated asparagus on the baking sheet, then refrigerate

for 15 minutes.

In a large frying pan, over medium heat, bring about an inch of

olive oil to 275F. Fry asparagus spears until golden brown, then

carefully remove from the pan using a slotted spoon or tongs

and place on a tray lined with paper towel to drain excess oil.

Herb Sauce

1 cup sour cream

1/4 cup onion, nely diced

1/4 cup chives, nely chopped

1 1/2 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice from half a lemon

salt and pepper to taste

Combine all the ingredients and put into a small dish for dipping.

This sauce can be made ahead of time and set aside.


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Curing salmon was one of the things I had to attempt while

working in Berlin. I have played with many variations, and years

of experience have fi nally led me to this winning recipe. If you

are not familiar with herbal schnapps just ask your local liquor

store retailer to help you fi nd it.

Herbal SchnapsCured Slmon Sicks

First Bites | 29


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Herbal SchnappsCured

Salmon Sticks

1 lb. wild salmon, boneless, skin on

1 bunch dill, chopped

2 tbsp. green peppercorns1 tsp. sea salt

1/4 cup salt

1/4 cup brown sugar

3 tbsp. orange juice, or the juice from 1 orange

2 tsp. orange zest, or the zest from 1 orange

8 oz. herbal schnapps

Place the salmon skin side down on a 12 x 12 square of tinfoil.

Sprinkle with chopped dill, peppercorns, salts, brown sugar,

orange juice, and zest.

Fold the sides of the foil up to create a small lip, then pour in the

schnapps. Fold the foil around the salmon and crimp the edges

to make an airtight parcel. Place the salmon between two trays

or plates and let it rest under something heavy for 12 hours.

To serve, wash off the salmon and cut it into very thin slices.

Weave the slices onto wooden skewers and arrange them on a

platter. Serve with Herbed Mustard Dip.

Tip:As you begin to feel more comfortable with the process of curing, feel free

to invent your own brines by experimenting with different spirits, herbs, and

citrus fruits.

Herbed Mustard Dip

1/2 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 cup herbal schnapps

1 tsp. brown sugar

1 tbsp. honey

1 1/2 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice of half a lemon


Combine all ingredients and put into a bowl small enough to sit

amongst the salmon skewers.

30 | Olafs Kitchen


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Fancy Fish and Chips

This is fi sh and chips taken to the next level. Moist strips of fi sh

woven through potatoes and fried until perfectly crisp make for

one-bite wonders.

2 large yellow or russet potatoes, peeled


6 smelts, cleaned

7 oz. Tilapia lets

7 oz. salmon4 cups olive oil, for frying

sea salt

white pepper

1/2 cup dill, sliced


Cut the potatoes lengthwise in 1/8-inch slices, like a thick potato

chip. Cut short slits in the slices at one-inch intervals, making

sure you leave the potato uncut at the top, bottom, and sides.You will use the slits when you weave the fi sh fi lets through the

potatoes. Fill a dish with cold water, stir in the lemon juice, and

add potato slices. Set aside.

Cut all the fi sh into 1/4 x 2 pieces. Dry potato slices, then

weave the fi sh strips through the cuts in the slices.

In a medium pot over medium heat, heat the olive oil to 275F.

Gently deep fry until the potato and fi sh are golden brown.

Remove from oil using a slotted spoon, place in a dish lined with

paper towels, and immediately season with salt and pepper.

Mound chips onto a plate and sprinkle with dill and chives.

Dip

2 cloves garlic

1 1/2 cups mayonnaise

1/2 cup sour cream3 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice from 1 lemon



1/2 cup capers, chopped

1/4 cup chives, nely sliced

1/4 cup parsley, nely sliced

Combine all the ingredients, cover, and refrigerate until ready

to use.

Tip:These chips are best served as soon as they are ready. If they sit after

being cooked, they may become soggy.

First Bites | 31


32/225

Duck Empanadas with Salsa Verde

I have always been enthralled with Spanish food, and handmade

pastry fi lled with big fl avors is just about the best thing any party

can serve up!

Pastry

3 3/4 cups our

1 tbsp. corn starch

1 tsp. salt1 egg, beaten

1/3 cup unsalted butter, melted

1 1/2 cups cold water

1 tsp. olive oil

On a fl at surface, mix fl our, cornstarch, and salt together using

your fi ngers. Hollow out the center and pour in all the wet

ingredients. Gradually mix the fl our into the wet ingredients until

soft dough forms. Place dough in a dish, cover, and refrigeratefor at least one hour.

Filling

1 small onion, minced

1 tbsp. olive oil

1 lb. braised duck meat (page 91), or store-bought BBQ

duck, diced

1/3 cup chicken stock3 tbsp. orange juice, or the juice from 1 orange


1/4 cup parsley, sliced

3/4 cup white bread crumbs


Egg Wash

1 egg1/4 cup milk


In a frying pan over medium heat, saut the onion in olive oil until

translucent. Add the remaining ingredients and mix.

On a lightly fl oured surface, roll out the chilled dough to about1/8-inch thickness, then cut into 3- or 4-inch rounds using a

cookie cutter. You should have about 24 cirlces of dough. In

a small bowl, whisk together egg and milk. Brush the edges of

each circle with egg wash. This will help seal the pastry after its

folded.

Place a heaping tablespoon of fi lling in the center of each circle.

Fold the sides up to form crescents, and seal the edges by

pinching them together. Place empanadas on a baking sheetlined with parchment paper, brush tops with remaining egg

wash, and bake for 15 minutes, or until golden brown.

Serve with Salsa Verde.

Salsa Verde

1 cup cilantro

1/2 cup parsley

1/2 cup scallions1/4 cup onion

1/4 cup jalapeo pepper

1 clove garlic

3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tbsp. lime juice, or the juice of 1 lime


Place all ingredients except olive oil, lime juice, salt, and pepper

on a cutting board, chop coarsely, then put into a serving bowl.Drizzle with the olive oil and lime juice. Adjust salt and pepper

to taste.

Tip: The roasted duck is only one possibility amongst an endless variety of

fillings. Get creative with things like mushrooms, spinach, cheese, beef, or

chorizo. Whatever you choose to experiment with, remember to keep your filling

mixtures as moist as possible.


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Mini Duck Burgers

First Bites | 33


34/225

Mini Duck Burgers

I fi rst came up with the idea for these burgers whi le working in

Berlin in the mid 80s. The idea has always stuck with me, and

the recipe is now one of my signature dishes. I serve these little

burgers at catered events, cocktail parties, and as a healthy

snack. One of the fun things about this recipe is that it replaces

traditional condiments, such as pickles, tomato, lettuce, and

mustard, with ingredients that complement the duck.

Patties

1 lb. braised duck meat (page 191), or store-bought

cooked duck, nely diced

1/2 cup leeks, nely sliced

1/2 cup onion, minced2 tsp. orange zest, or the zest from 1 orange

1 tbsp. sage, sliced

1 tbsp. parsley, sliced

2 egg yolks, beaten

1/3 cup fresh bread crumbs


Burger Assembly

8 whole wheat muesli buns, split

1 pint alfalfa sprouts

1 pint gs, sliced

1 orange, peeled and cut into slices


1/4 cup orange marmalade, store-bought

Preheat the oven to 250F.

In a large bowl, combine patty ingredients and season with saltand pepper. Form into 2-inch patties and place on a baking

sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake for 10 minutes.

While the patties are baking, toast the buns and prepare to build

your mini burgers. Toss the orange zest with the sprouts and

layer onto the top half of the bun with the fi g and orange slices.

Spread the other half of the bun with marmalade, then top it

with the duck.

Tip:Warming the patties slowly at a low temperature allows for the duck meat

to remain moist and tender.


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36/225

Fresh from the Earth

Give me real vegetables! All the better if theyre fresh from the ground

and still coated with the rich, dark soil they grew in. Fresh, organic

garden vegetables taste like nothing else. The recipes that follow stand

out because they are made to accent the distinct, natural fl avors of the

vegetables they incorporate. Although I am a self-avowed meat and

potatoes man, I could survive on these recipes alone if I had to. From

comforting soups to savory dishes, all of these recipes can easily be

served as the main component of a meal.

Fresh rom the Earth


37/225


38/225

WholesomeVegetable Cooking

Butternut Squash Soup with Muesli Popcorn Clusters ...39

White Asparagus Soup with Root Vegetable Crisps ...40

Sauerkraut Crme Soup ...42

Sweet and Sour SpiceInfused Tomatoes ...43

Confi t Vegetable Parcel with Goat Cheese Dip ...45

Scalloped Kohlrabi ...46

Savory Apple Couscous ...47

Wholesome Vegetable Cooking

Butternut Sush Sup with Muesli Ppcorn Cluers


39/225

Autumn: colored leaves, cool days, and cold n ights. This soup

is perfect for when youve returned from a brisk walk. The muesli

clusters add a healthy crunch, and the last-minute addition of

freshly juiced vegetables gives a little extra punch to the base

fl avors of the soup.

Butternut Sush Sup with Muesli Ppcorn Cluers

Wholesome Vegetable Cooking | 39

Butternut Squash Soup


40/225

q p

with Muesli Popcorn Clusters

Butternut Squash Soup

1/4 cup olive oil

3 small to medium butternut squash

4 medium carrots

1 medium onion, diced

1 tsp. ginger root, grated

1/2 tsp. allspice

1 tbsp. curry powder

1 stick cinnamon

1 bay leafsalt and white pepper to taste

10 cups vegetable stock

1/2 cup buckwheat honey

1 cup dried apricots, diced

Muesli Popcorn Clusters (recipe follows)

1/4 cup chervil, coarsely chopped

Peel, seed, and cube the squash; peel and dice the carrots. Add

oil to a stockpot and place over medium heat; add 2/3 of thesquash and 1/2 of the carrots; then add onion, ginger, allspice,

curry powder, cinnamon stick, and bay leaf. Saut until all the

vegetables are soft, then season with salt and pepper. Add the

stock, honey, and diced apricot. Simmer for 30 minutes.

Remove the cinnamon stick and bay leaf; pour contents

of stockpot into a blender or food processor and pure. Be

careful: this liquid is hot! Strain pure through a fi ne sieve. Adjust

seasonings.

Juice or pure the reserved raw carrot and squash.

Whisk the raw vegetables into the hot soup, then ladle the soup

into warm bowls, fl oat a Muesli Popcorn Cluster in the center of

each, and garnish with chervil.

Tip:Fresh juice added at the last minute to an already flavorful soup punchesup the key flavor profile.

Muesli Popcorn Clusters

4 cups marshmallows (mini, or large ones cut into

quarters)

2 cups oat muesli cereal blend

1/2 cup crushed cornakes

3/4 cup your choice of dried fruits (raisins, mango,

cranberries)

1 cup toasted mixed nuts or seeds

4 cups popped popcorn


In a large pan, over medium heat, melt the marshmallows,

stirring constantly.

In a large bowl, toss muesli, cornfl akes, dried fruit, and nuts. Set

aside approximately a quarter of this mixture. Add the popcorn;

mix it in, then carefully stir in melted marshmallow. Cool until

comfortable enough to handle. Divide into eight sections. Using

your hands, form into balls. Roll balls in the mixture you set

aside, then place on a baking tray lined with parchment paper.

Bake for 5 minutes or unti l fi rm.

Serve immediately with the soup, or make ahead and store in

an airtight container.

Tip:Served on their own, these clusters make a great treat.

40 | Olafs Kitchen

White Asparagus Soup White Asparagus Soup


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with Root Vegetable Crisps

This soup is inspired by Michelin Star Chef Bernie Siener. The

white asparagus pure is accented by small root vegetable

crisps to make a sophisticated play on breakfast cereal. After

all, grown-ups should have fun too!

2 lbs. white asparagus

1/4 cup unsalted butter

1 medium onion, diced

1 large yellow-esh potato, diced1/4 cup our

6 cups chicken or vegetable stock

1 bay leaf

3 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice from 1 large lemon

1/3 cup orange juice, or the juice from 2 medium oranges

1 cup whipping cream, warmed

1/4 tsp. nutmeg

salt and white pepper to taste

Remove asparagus tips and set aside for use in Root Vegetable

Crisps. Dice asparagus stalks. In a stockpot on medium high,

melt the butter, then saut the onion, asparagus pieces, and

potato for 5 minutes. Do not let the vegetables brown. Dust with

fl our and mix well. Whisk in the stock, add the bay leaf, and stir

constantly so the fl our doesnt burn or stick to the bottom of the

pot. Add the lemon and orange juice. Simmer for 30 minutes.

White Asparagus Sup with Root Vegetable Criss



42/225

In a separate pot, warm the cream.

Remove bay leaf from the stockpot. Add the cream and nutmeg.

Stirring constantly, continue to simmer for approximately 5

minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Pure, then strain through a fi ne sieve.

Root Vegetable Crisps

1 small red-skin potato

1 small gold-esh potato

1 small purple-esh potato

1 small parsnip

1 small carrot

1 small sweet potato1 small beet

olive oil, for frying


1 box pea sprouts

1/2 lb. green and white asparagus tips

Use as many or as few of the suggested vegetables as you like.

Peel and slice on the thinnest setting of a mandolin. Place slices

in ice-cold water to remove some of the starch and prevent

them from drying out.

Heat the oil to 310F and slowly fry the vegetable slices in small

batches for approximately one minute, or until golden brown

and crispy. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on paper

towel to absorb any excess oil. Season with salt and pepper

while still warm.

Steam the asparagus tips until just tender. Set aside.

To serve: Sprinkle bowls with the root vegetable chips, fi ll with

soup, then top with sprouts and steamed asparagus tips. Or

allow your guests to pour the soup themselves from a large

teapot or several individual pots. Be sure to warm the teapots

so the soup stays nice and hot.

Tip:Cold cream does not react well to hot liquids. Warming the cream allows

the two to combine without any curdling. Enhance the flavor of this soup by

making it ahead of time and chilling it overnight. The tastes will marry together

and become more integrated.

A mandolin is a great kitchen tool. There is nothing else like it for

slicing vegetables paper-thin.

To make the potatoes extra crispy, soak the slices in cold water

with a squeeze of lemon juice added to it.

42 | Olafs Kitchen


43/225

Sauerkraut Crme Soup

Served hot or cold, sauerkraut is great all on its own. Add a little

cream and a few special ingredients, and you end up with love

on a spoon.

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1 medium onions, diced

1 medium apple, grated

1 medium yellow-esh potato, peeled and diced

2 cups dry white wine

1/3 cup our

4 cups sauerkraut, with liquid

2 bay leaves

4 cups Vegetable Stock (page 182)nutmeg

salt

pepper

1 cup whipping cream

1/4 tsp. ground caraway seeds

1 cup apple cider

2 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice from 1 medium lemon

2 cups white cabbage juice, store bought

pumpernickel bread croutons

In a large stockpot, over medium-high heat, add the oil and

saut the onion, apple, and potato for a few minutes. Add the

white wine and reduce by half. Whisk in the fl our until you have

a smooth paste.

Add the sauerkraut, bay leaves, and vegetable stock. Reduce

heat to medium. Season to taste with nutmeg, salt, and

pepper.

In a separate pot, or in the microwave, warm the cream then

add to the soup. Simmer for 30 minutes.

Remove bay leaves. Pure the soup, then pass it through a fi ne

sieve. Add the caraway. Just before serving, add apple cider,

lemon, and cabbage juice to give the soup a little extra kick.

Garnish with croutons.



44/225

Sweet and Sour

SpiceInfused Tomatoes

Tomatoes are just great as is, yet they can be used in so many

different ways. This infusion turns each little tomato into a bite

that will zip across your tongue and perk up your whole palate.

4 cups water

3 cups sugar

2 cups white vinegar

1 small red chili pepper

3 tbsp. orange juice and zest, or the juice and zest

of 1 orange

1 vanilla bean, marrow scraped

1/2 cup basil leaves

3 bay leaves

3 star anise

1 tbsp. coriander seed

1 tsp. fennel seed

1/2 tsp. cracked white peppercorns

24 vine-ripened cherry tomatoes

In a large pot over medium high heat, simmer all ingredients,

except the tomatoes, for 10 minutes.

Place the tomatoes in a large dish that is deep enough for them

to be completely submerged. Pour in the infusing liquid, cover,

and refrigerate for 24 hours, or overnight at the very least.

Tip:Leaving the tomatoes on the vine makes for a more appealing presentation.

The vanilla bean can be saved for futu re recipes: cover it with salt or sugar and

seal it in an airtight container.


45/225

Cont Vegetable Prcel


Confit Vegetable Parcel


46/225

Confit Vegetable Parcelwith Goat Cheese Dip

Here I take my lead from Italian chefs. Citrus-seasoned veg-

etables sealed in crispy fl atbread combine two of Italys fi nest

staples.

Confit Vegetable Parcel

1 Flatbread (page 198)

1 cup olive oil

1/2 tsp. sugar

1/2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. black peppercorns

4 medium vine-ripened tomatoes, halved

1 bulb fennel, sliced lengthwise into 1/2-inch widths

1 large eggplant cut into 1/2-inch slices

1 small red onion, quartered

4 garlic cloves, whole2 peppers, seeded, cut into thick strips

1 tbsp. rosemary, chopped

1 tbsp. basil, chopped

1 tbsp. thyme, chopped

1 medium zucchini, chopped


Preheat the oven to 350oF.

Prepare fl atbread dough; set aside.

Mix all remaining ingredients until vegetables are coated. Spread

out in an earthenware dish and bake for 15 minutes, or until

vegetables are cooked.

Remove dish from oven and let it cool slightly.

Roll out the fl atbread dough and wrap it around the top of the

earthenware dish.

Return dish to the oven and bake for 15 minutes, or until bread

is golden brown.

Goat Cheese Dip

1 cup goat cheese

3 cups plain yogurt

3 tbsp. lemon juice, or the juice from 1 lemon1/4 cup olive oil


Combine all ingredients and pour into a small dish for dipping.

Tip:You can bake the vegetables one day in advance then wrap them in the

flatbread and bake them just before serving.

46 | Olafs Kitchen

Scalloped Kohlrabi


47/225

My family loves the mild, broccoli-like fl avor of kohlrabi.

Unfortunately, this fantastic vegetable is highly underused. My

recipe is an attempt at getting people to fall in love with this

lonely little vegetable.

4 bulbs kohlrabi

1 tsp. unsalted butter

1 tsp. our

1 tsp. honey

1/2 tsp. apple cider vinegar

1 cup kohlrabi broth, from cooking water

1 egg yolk, beaten

1/2 cup sour cream


4 red radishes, cut into 1/8-inch slices

1 large baking apple, skin on, cut into 1/8-inch slices

Preheat the oven to 250F

Grease an earthenware dish and set aside.

Fill a large pot with salted watermake sure there is enough

water to cover the kohlrabi completely. Bring the water to a

boil.

Remove top leaves from the kohlrabi and peel. Boil the bulbs

until tender, about 15 minutes, then drain (save the liquid) and

cool.

Cut the kohlrabi into quarter-inch slices.

In a large pan, over medium heat, melt the butter then add the

fl our, stirring constantly until a smooth paste forms. Add the

honey, apple cider vinegar, and kohlrabi broth, simmer for 10

minutes, then allow to cool.

Stir in the egg yolk and sour cream. Season with salt and

pepper.

Alternate layers of kohlrabi, radish, and apple into the greased

baking dish. Cover with the sauce, bake for 7 minutes, then

place under the broiler until golden brown.

Serve warm.

Tip: Whisk the egg yolk into the cool kohlrabi liquid to prevent it fromscrambling.


Savory Apple Couscous


48/225

This dish makes a great accompaniment to pork or game. It is

also great on its own. Top it off with a scoop of vanilla ice cream,

and suddenly you have dessert.

1/4 cup dark rum

1/2 cup golden sultana raisins

2 cups couscous

2 tbsp. unsalted butter

2 baking apples, peeled, cored, diced

1/4 cup almonds, toasted, then crushed

1/4 tsp. cinnamon

1/4 tsp. allspice

1/8 cup maple syrup

1/4 cup instant rolled oats

1/4 cup nely diced aged cheddar cheese

1/8 cup at leaf parsley, sliced

Heat the rum in a small bowl in the microwave then add the

raisins, or heat on stove and pour over raisins in a small bowl.

Cover bowl and set aside to soak.

Place couscous in a bowl, pour in 2 cups of boiling water, cover,

and let sit for 5 to 10 minutes. Fluff with a fork.

In a large nonstick frying pan, melt the butter over medium heat.

Saut the apples and almonds for 5 minutes. Add spices, syrup,

and oats, and saut for 5 additional minutes, or until golden

brown. Add the cheese and heat until cheese melts.

Add rum raisins and couscus to frying pan. Garnish with parsley

and serve.

Tip:Toasting nuts in the oven or in a pan before adding them to any recipe will

bring out their natural oils and make them all the more flavorful.


49/225


50/225

Say No to Fast Food!

Say no to takeout: these quickie meals are great for a lunch or dinner on

the fl y. All you need is a few ingredients, a bit of chopping, and a dash of

organization. Having ingredients precut, portioned, and ready to go helps

you get these dishes together in a quick, easy fl ow. You are what you

eat, so take control of your health by choosing quality ingredients, and

remember that takeout isnt the only answer to being in a rush. Some of

these dishes have components that need to be made in advance, but

the extra effort makes the fi nished meal worthwhile.

Sy No to Ft Food!


51/225


52/225

Faster-Cooking Foods

Veal and Mushrooms ...52

Vietnamese Caramelized Chicken ...53

Spicy Peanut Chicken ...54

Bourbon Chicken and Shrimp Risotto ...55

Mushroom and Spinach Strudel ...57

Bratwurst-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin ...59

South Beach Sandwiches ...60

Olafs Wiener Schnitzel ...61

Fer-Cooking Foods

52 | Olafs Kitchen

Veal and Mushrooms


53/225

This one is an old classic. The combination of veal, mushrooms,

and wine is a real winner, and is a favorite amongst the ladies

in my family.

1/4 cup oil

1 lb. veal llet or loin, thinly sliced

6 cups mushrooms (oyster, shiitake, cremini), sliced

1 small onion, minced

1 cup white wine

1 cup brown beef stock

1/2 cup whipping cream

1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. lemon juice

1/4 cup sour cream

1/2 cup whipping cream, whipped

1/4 cup sliced chives

In a large pan over high heat, heat half the oil and sear both

sides of the veal for about 3 minutes or until brown. Remove

veal from the pan and keep warm.

In the same pan, saut the mushrooms for about 4 minutes.Remove mushrooms from the pan and keep warm with the veal.

Add the remaining oil to the pan and saut the onion until

translucent. Reduce heat to medium high, add the wine, and

reduce by 80%.

Add the beef stock and cream and reduce again by 50%.

Remove the pan from the heat and add the meat juices from

the warming plate. Add mustard, lemon juice, and sour cream,then whisk well.

Fold in the veal, mushrooms, and whipped cream. Garnish with

chives.

Tip:Use a hot pan, and sear the meat well. Dont shake the panshaking will

cause the moisture to come out of the meat, and the meat will boil instead of

braise.

Faster-Cooking Foods | 53

Vietnamese Caramelized Chicken


54/225

This recipe is inspired by my recollection of the signature dish at

a Vietnamese restaurant in San Francisco.

3/4 cup brown sugar

3 cups cold water

1/2 cup sh sauce

1/3 cup rice wine vinegar

1 tsp. soy sauce

1 tsp. ginger pure

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 drop sesame seed oil


1 1/2 lbs. chicken thighs, boneless, skinless

5 scallions, nely sliced

2 jalapeo peppers, nely sliced

1 cup chopped roasted peanuts

1/2 cup bean sprouts

1/2 cup coriander sprigs

In a medium bowl, combine the brown sugar, cold water, fi sh

sauce, rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, garlic, and sesame

seed oil. Set aside.

In a large nonstick frying pan, heat half the oil on medium high

and sear the chicken pieces until golden brown.

Add 1/3 of the brown-sugar sauce and stir until chicken is

caramelized and the liquid has reduced completely.

Add remaining sauce and simmer until the chicken is tender

and the sauce is syrupy.

Add the scallions and jalapeo peppers.

Garnish with peanuts, sprouts, and coriander sprigs, and servewith steamed rice or rice noodles.

Tip:Searing the chicken really well and reducing the sauce in stages is what

allows the chicken to caramelize into a deep, rich color. This is an absolutely

easy dish to reheatmake it the day ahead!

54 | Olafs Kitchen

Spicy Peanut Chicken


55/225

A real hit at my West 50 Pourhouse and Grille. My rendition of

chicken satay ditches the skewers and bumps the dish from

appetizer to main course.

1 tsp. ground coriander

1 1/2 tbsp. lime juice, or the juice from 1 lime

1 small chili, seeds removed and sliced

1 1/2 lbs. chicken thighs, boneless


1 cup salted peanuts

3 cloves garlic

1 tbsp. grated fresh ginger root

1 bunch scallions, whites only, sliced

4 cups chicken stock

1 tsp. Thai chili sauce

4 cups coconut milk


1/2 cup peanut butter

4 scallions, white only, chopped

1 bunch coriander, sliced

In a large bowl, combine the ground coriander, lime juice, and

chilies. Add the chicken pieces and marinate for one hour.

In a large frying pan, heat half the oil over medium-high heat

and sear the chicken pieces until golden brown on all sides.

Remove from the pan and set aside.

To the same pan, add the rest of the oil, the peanuts, garlic,

ginger, and sliced scallions and saut for 3 to 4 minutes.

Add the chicken stock, bring to a boil, then turn heat down and

simmer for 5 minutes.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the chili sauce, coconut

milk, and cream, then whisk in the peanut butter. Add the

chicken pieces and continue to simmer for 10 minutes. Taste

and adjust seasonings if necessary.

Toss in the chopped scallions and coriander just before

serving.

Tip:I prefer to use chicken thighs for this recipe because the dark meat tends

to stay moister. You can use breast meat if you like, but you will need to lessen

the cooking time. The peanuts and peanut butter have a high salt content, so

taste before seasoning.


Bourbon Chicken and Shrimp Risotto


56/225

This dish brings together all the heart and soul of New Orleans

cooking. It is a favorite at my restaurant On the Curve Hot Stove

and Wine Bar. No need to rush if you want to try it there: I wont

be taking it off the menu any time soon.

To make the risotto, see the Basic Risotto recipe on page 195.

Bourbon Chicken and Shrimp


2 oz. andouille sausage, sliced

4 oz. chicken thighs, boneless, skinless, cut into strips


1 medium onion, sliced

2 tbsp. Cajun powder

1 tomato, coarsely chopped

1/2 sweet bell pepper, cubed

2 oz. bourbon

12 large shrimp, cleaned

3/4 cup tomato juice

1 cup sliced scallions, for garnish

Make the Basic Risotto (page 195); keep warm.

Place oil and sliced sausage in a large pan over medium-high

heat; brown the sausage until crispy.

Add the chicken strips and brown until chicken is completely

cooked.

Add butter and sliced onion. Saut until onion is light brown.

Dust with Cajun powder and saut for a few more minutes.

Add the tomato and pepper, then deglaze with the bourbon.

Add the shrimp and saut until they turn orange and are

completely cooked.

Fold in the warm risotto and the tomato juice. Adjust the

seasoning to taste, and garnish with scallion slices.

Tip: Toast the Cajun spices in a pan before you add them to the chicken;

toasting gives the flavors extra bang.

56 | Olafs Kitchen


57/225

Mushroom nd Spinach S rudelYet another classic! This is a great meatless alternative.


58/225

58 | Olafs Kitchen


59/225

Brawurt-S uffed Prk TenderloinPork and carrots always make a great combination. Mustard

and caraway make this sauce a true culinary delight, the Swiss

chard is a palette cleanser, and the carrot juice gives the whole

dish a zingy boost of fl avor.


Bratwurst-Stuffed Pork Tenderloin

1 lb (4 x 4 oz portions) pork tenderloin with the bacon strips Wrap the entire roll in tin foil and time


60/225

1 lb. (4 x 4-oz. portions) pork tenderloin

12 oz. bratwurst

2 tbsp. green peppercorns


1 tsp. caraway seeds

1 head Swiss chard, washed, stems removed

4 strips bacon

1 small onion, diced

1/2 cup oil

1 large carrot, diced

1 tsp. honey

1 1/4 cups chicken stock

1 tsp. mustard

1/4 cup cream

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

salt

2 carrots, juiced

The aim here is to cut the tenderloin into a fl at fi llet. Cut into

the tenderloin lengthwise about halfway, then continue to cut

while simultaneously spreading the meat out from the center.

Lay resulting rectangle of tenderloin on a sheet of parchment

paper.

Remove the casings from the bratwurst and place the sausage

mixture in a medium bowl. Mix in the green peppercorns,

parsley, and caraway seeds.

Fill a medium bowl with cold water and a handful of ice. Set

aside.

In a large pot, bring salted water to a boil. Blanch the Swiss

chard for 1 minute then, using strainer or tongs, pull out the

chard and cool in the ice bath to stop the cooking process.

When completely cool, remove from the water and pat dry with

a towel or paper towels.

Cover entire rectangle of tenderloin with bratwurst mixture, then

add a layer of Swiss chard. Roll up the tenderloin and wrap

with the bacon strips. Wrap the entire roll in tin foil and, time

permitting, chill for at least one hour.


Remove the foil and place the chilled tenderloin on a rack in

a baking pan. Bake for about 18 minutes, or until the internal

temperature is 145F.

Place the tenderloin on a warmed plate and tent with tin foil.

Allow to rest for at least 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a small pot, over medium heat, saut the onion

in the oil until onion is translucent. Add the carrots and honey.

Cook for a few more minutes.

Add chicken stock and simmer until the carrots are tender.

Pour contents of pot into a blender or food processor. Add

mustard, cream cayenne pepper, and salt. Blend until smooth.

Be careful: this mixture is hot!

Return blended liquid to the pot and bring back up to heat. Just

before serving, strain through a fi ne sieve and add the carrot

juice. Place the tenderloin onto the plate and pour the liquid

around the meat.

Tip: Letting meat rest allows all the juices to settle, so they dont run out and

get wasted when you slice the meat. The larger the piece of meat, the longer

it should rest.

60 | Olafs Kitchen

South Beach Sandwiches


61/225

My son Nicolas and I had a run-in with authentic Cuban food

while vacationing in Florida. The result is that we are now both

addicted to these sandwiches. Turn them into an on-the-fl y

meal by making the pulled pork ahead of timethat way all you

have to do is assemble the sandwiches.

2 onions, sliced

1 lb. pork loin roast

2 cups Olafs Black Spice Rub (page 189)


4 oz. rum

1 baguette

hot mustard

8 slices Swiss cheese

8 slices cooked ham

2 dill pickles, sliced


Place the sliced onions in a large roasting pan. Divide the pork

roast into four portions and place on top of the onions.. Cover

the roast portions with Olafs Black Spice Rub. Pour in the

chicken stock and rum. Cover and bake for one hour or until the

internal temperature of the pork is 165F. Remove from oven.

When the pork is cool enough to handle, but still warm, remove

it from the pan and slice thinly, or shred it by pulling the meat

apart with your fi ngers.

Place the roasting pan over medium heat and cook down the

juices until most of the liquid has been absorbed by the onions.

Add to the pork.

Slice open the baguette and spread both sides with mustard.

Add a layer of Swiss cheese, a layer of ham, a layer of pork,

another layer of cheese, and fi nally add the pickle slices. Close

the baguette and cut into sections; place the sandwich sections

on a baking tray and warm them in the oven for 3 minutes.

Tip:For maximum flavor, make sure you pour all the goodness from the roasting

pan into the pork.


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Handmade and Delicate

German cuisine isnt known for its delicacy, let alone its noodles or pasta

dishes, but I am going to change that. I have started by reducing portion

sizes and refi ning hearty starches into soft and delicate morsels. These

noodles can easily stand on their own, and I have treated them to some

great sauces so that they can soak up big fl avors that will make them a

huge hit at any table. Once you get a handle on the noodle recipes, you

can get personal and add some of your own sauce ideas. Treat these

old-fashioned starchy sides as the new pastas of your kitchen.

Hnmade nd Delicate


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Pta, Noodles, nd Dumplings

Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings

Focaccia Dumplings in Oyster Mushroom Sauce ...66

Potato Dumplings and Lobster in Sherry Tarragon Sauce ...69

Curried Shellfi sh with Red Beet Spaetzle ...71

Spaetzle and Clams in White Wine ...72

Whole Wheat Spaetzle with Mushrooms ...73

Beef Tenderloin with Blue Cheese Spaetzleand Port Wine Reduction ...75

Crab and Smoked Salmon Ravioli with Maple Glaze ...76

Veal Ravioli ...77

66 | Olafs Kitchen

Focaccia Dumplingsin Oyster Mushroom Sauce

Focaccia Dumplings

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil, carefully drop in

the dumplings, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the

dumplings fl oat to the surface. Using a slotted spoon, remove

dumplings.


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Focaccia Dumplings

1 lb. focaccia bread, day old, cubed1/2 cup olive oil

2 cloves garlic, sliced

2 cups spinach, washed

1 1/2 cups vegetable or chicken stock

3 eggs, beaten

1 cup sun-dried tomatoes, chopped

3/4 cup Parmesan cheese

1 cup basil, sliced

1 cup parsley, sliced1 cup bread crumbs

4 oz. smoked mozzarella cheese, cubed

1 cup ricotta cheese


smoked paprika

In a large bowl, place the focaccia cubes and set aside.

In a large frying pan over medium heat, heat the olive oil andlightly brown the garlic slices then wilt the spinach leaves.

Remove garlic and spinach from the pan. Set the pan aside,

keeping the fl avored oil; we will get back to it.

Add the garlic and spinach to the focaccia cubes and toss

together.

In a medium pan over medium heat, warm the stock, then stir

into the focaccia cubes. Mix well. While still warm, add thebeaten eggs and quickly stir to combine well.

Add the tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, half the basil, and half

the parsley. Form into golf ballsize dumplings. If mixture is too

wet, add in some bread crumbs. With you fi nger, press a hole

into the center of each dumpling and fi ll with a mozzarella cube,

then press dumpling together to close the indent. Place fi lled

dumplings on a tray and refrigerate for about 45 minutes.

In the frying pan you set aside, on medium heat, slightly crisp

up the dumplings.

Before plating, roll the dumplings in the rest of the chopped

basil and parsley.

In a small bowl, combine the ricotta cheese, salt, and pepper

then spoon onto dumplings as a topping.

Dust with smoked paprika for presentation.

Oyster Mushroom Sauce

1/4 cup olive oil

3 cups oyster mushrooms, sliced

1 small white onion, diced

1 cup white wine

1 1/2 cups whipping cream



In a small pan, add the olive oil and saut the mushrooms.

Transfer half of the mushrooms onto a small plate and set aside.

Add the onion to the pan with the remaining mushrooms and

sweat until the onions are translucent. Deglaze with the white

wine and reduce by 80%. Add the cream and simmer for 5

minutes or until cream thickens enough to coat the back of

a spoon. Season with salt and pepper. Pure the mixture in

a blender or food processor then return to the pan. Add thereserved mushrooms; stir in chives. Serve immediately or

simmer on very low until ready to serve.

Tip:Be patient when poaching the dumplings. It may seem like theyre never

going to float, but they will. This is generally the case for any dumpling or

gnocchi.


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Focaccia Dumplings n Oyer Mushroom Suce


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Ptato Dumplings nd Lobter n S herry Trragon Suce

Pasta, Noodles, and Dumplings | 69

Potato Dumplings and Lobster

in Sherry Tarragon Sauce

This is my German twist on the Italian gnocchi dumpling

Lobster in Sherry Tarragon Sauce

1/2 cup olive oil

4 medium vine-ripened tomatoes, coarsely chopped

salt and pepper


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This is my German twist on the Italian gnocchi dumpling.

Potato Dumplings

1 1/2 lbs. yellow-esh potato, skin on

1/2 cup our

2 eggs

2 egg yolks

1/2 tsp. salt

1 tsp. white pepper

1/2 tsp. nutmeg

1/2 cup potato starch

1/2 cup extra our for dredging

In a medium pot of salted water, cook the potatoes, skin on,

until tender when poked with a fork. Drain very well. While still

warm, peel the potatoes and press through a ricer. Place riced

potato in a bowl and quickly fold in the fl our, eggs, egg yolks,

salt, pepper, nutmeg, and potato starch.

Portion the dumplings using a mini ice cream scoop or a

tablespoon. Roll them into balls between the palms of your

hands, then roll them in fl our. Set on a tray l ined with parchment

paper then refrigerate for 30 minutes.

In a very large pot of boiling salted water, drop the dumplings

and let simmer for 15 minutes or until they fl oat to the surface.

Place on paper towels to dry.

salt and pepper

1 tbsp. sugar

1/2 cup basil, sliced

1/2 cup oregano, sliced

3 tbsp. orange juice, or the juice from 1 orange


12 oz. lobster meat

4 oz. sherry


1/4 cup tarragon, leaves only, sliced



In a large bowl, combine 1/4 cup of the oil, tomatoes, salt,

pepper, sugar, basil, oregano, orange juice, and orange zest.

Transfer to a baking sheet and roast for 30 minutes.

In a large frying pan over medium heat, heat remaining oil.

Add lobster meat and roasted tomato mixture and saut for 3

minutes.

Deglaze the pan with the sherry.

Add cream, then add the dumplings and slowly bring the liquids

to a simmer.

Just before serving, add the tarragon and chives.

Tip:When making any potato mixture, you must work with warm potatoes, and

your mixing must go very quickly; otherwise any remaining water in the potatoes

will make the mixture gluey.

If you dont have a ricer, use a potato masher, but make sure the

mixture is very well mashed and free of lumps.


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Curried Shellsh with Red Beet Spaetzle


Curried Shellfish

with Red Beet Spaetzle

Yet another inspiration from my experience in an Italian fine-dining


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Yet another inspiration from my experience in an Italian fi ne dining

restaurant. It was originally a red beet linguini but I put my own

twist on it. Youll need to make Red Beet Spaetzle on page 194.

Curry Sauce

1/4 cup olive oil

1 small onion, diced

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 tsp. fresh ginger root, minced

1/2 stalk lemongrass, chopped

2 1/2 tbsp. curry powder

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

2 cups coconut milk


salt and pepper

In a medium pot over medium-high heat, heat the oil. Add onion,

garlic, ginger, and lemongrass and saut for 5 minutes.

Reduce the temperature to medium. Dust with curry powder

and cayenne pepper and saut for a few minutes.

Deglaze with the coconut milk and cream, then simmer for 5

minutes.

Season to taste, then strain through a fi ne sieve into a small pot.

Set aside.

Shellfish

1/4 cup olive oil

8 scallops8 shrimp, cleaned

1 lb. mussels, washed and debearded

1 1/2 cups white wine

salt and pepper

1 recipe Red Beet Spaetzle (page 194)

1 head broccoli orets, blanched

1 pint pea and broccoli sprouts

In a large pan over high heat, heat the oil and sear the scallopsfor 1 minute on each side to caramelize. Remove from pan and

set aside.

Caramelize shrimp and remove from pan.

Add the mussels, white wine, salt, and pepper to the pan and

cover for 5 minutes until most of the mussels have opened.

Discard any unopened mussels.

Return the scallops and shrimp to the pan. Add the curry sauce.

Warm the spaetzle in a pot of boiling water, strain, and add to

the sauce. Toss in the broccoli.

Garnish with sprouts and serve immediately.

Tip: Sear the shellfish then set aside. They will continue to cook as they wait to

be added to the warm sauce.

72 | Olafs Kitchen

Spaetzle and Clams

in White Wine

My version of Germany meeting Italy. Youll need to make the


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y y g y

noodles beforehand: youll fi nd the recipe for Basic Spaetzle on

page 192.

1/2 cup olive oil


2 lbs. Littleneck clams

salt and pepper

2 bay leaves

1 small white onion, minced

3 cups dry white wine

1 lemon, juice and zest

3/4 cup ice-cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

1 cup parsley, sliced

4 cups Spaetzle noodles (page 192)

1/2 cup olive oil

In a large soup pot, over medium-high heat, heat the olive oil

and saut the garlic until brown. Add the clams. Stir in salt and

pepper, bay leaves, onion, and wine. Cover the pot with a tight-

fi tting lid, shake, and simmer for approximately 7 minutes or until

all or most of the clams are open. Discard bay leaves and any

unopened clams. Remove all the opened clams and take the

fl esh out of the shells.

Return the pot of liquid to the stove over medium heat and add

the lemon juice and zest. Quickly whisk in the butter cubes until

the sauce thickens and becomes glossy. Add the clams back

into the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.

Toss in the parsley and noodles. Serve on warm plates and

drizzle with olive oil.

Tip:Make sure you dont reduce the liquid too much. The clam juice is the heart

and soul of this dish.


Whole Wheat Spaetzle

with Mushrooms

This meatless dish is a true down-to-earth recipe. It has so many


74/225

great fl avors that you just want to double the recipe and eat it for

days. Youll need to make Whole Wheat Spaetzle, which can be

found on page 193.

1/3 cup olive oil


4 cups mixed mushrooms (cremini, shiitake, oyster)

1/2 cup basil, sliced

1 cup parsley, sliced

1/2 cup oregano, chopped

1 tsp lemon zest, or the zest from half a fresh lemon


1/4 cup unsalted butter, ice-cold, cut into cubes

Whole Wheat Spaetzle (page 193)

2 tbsp. lemon, juice, or the juice from 1 fresh lemon

sea salt

cracked pepper

1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, grated

1 bunch arugula, sliced

In a large pot over medium heat, heat the oil and saut the

garlic slices until light brown. Add the mushrooms and cook

until golden brown.

Add the herbs and lemon zest. Deglaze with chicken stock.

Add the butter cubes and stir quickly until sauce thickens and

becomes glossy.

Toss in the prepared noodles, season with lemon juice, salt,

and pepper, then add cheese and arugula.

Tip:The broth must be hot and simmering when you add the ice-cold butter.


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Beef Tenderloin with Blue Cheese Spaetzle nd Prt Wne Reducion


Beef Tenderloin with Blue Cheese

Spaetzle and Port Wine Reduction

This is a creation that my friend Simon Cox and I came up with.


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I call the combination of beef, port, and blue cheese the Three

Deadly Sins of Eating. Youll need to prepare the noodles and

port wine ahead of time. Make the Basic Spaetzle recipe on

page 192 and Port Wine Reduction recipe on page 186.

1 lb. beef tenderloin

salt and pepper

1/4 cup plus 1 tbsp. olive oil

1 small white onion, nely diced

1 cup white wine

3/4 cup whipping cream

salt and white pepper to taste

3/4 cup blue cheese

1/4 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

4 cups Basic Spaetzle noodles (page 192)

1/4 cup parsley, sliced

2 tsp. cracked coarse pepper

2 scallions, sliced

1 recipe Port Wine Reduction (page 186)

1 cup blue cheese, crumbled


Season the tenderloin with salt and pepper. In a large frying pan

that can be trasferred to the oven, over high heat, heat 1 tbsp.

olive oil. Sear the tenderloin on all sides. Place the pan in the

oven and bake the tenderloin for approximately 7 minutes, or

until the internal temperature of the meat is 130F. Cover with

a loose foil tent and let rest for at least 10 minutes. Thinly slice

against the grain. Set aside.

Heat 1/4 cup oil in a small pot on medium heat and saut theonion until translucent. Deglaze with the white wine and reduce

by 80%. Add the cream. Simmer for 3 minutes.

Season and strain through a fi ne mesh sieve into a clean

saucepan. Bring to a simmer and fold in the cheeses. Season

with salt and pepper, then add noodles, parsley, cracked

pepper, and scallions, and toss together.

Serve on a large platter, or divide onto individual serving plates.Place the beef slices on the side. Spoon the Port Reduction

over the top of the tenderloin and garnish with crumbled blue

cheese.

76 | Olafs Kitchen

Crab and Smoked Salmon Ravioli

with Maple Glaze

Youll need to make the Basic Ravioli on page 196.


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Filling


1 small onion, nely diced

1/2 cup smoked salmon, sliced

3/4 cup crabmeat

1 tbsp. dill, chopped

1 tbsp. chives, sliced

1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard

1 tsp. lemon zest, or the zest from half a fresh lemon

1/2 cup sour cream

In a medium frying pan over medium heat, melt the butter, then

saut onion until light brown. Add smoked salmon, then transfer

to a large bowl.

Add remaining ingredients and chill.

Make the ravioli dough by following the Basic Ravioli recipe on

page 196, then follow the directions for your pasta machine to

roll out the dough gradually from thick to thin. If using a rolling

pin, it will take a while to work the dough down to about 1/16-

inch in thickness.

Cut the ravioli dough into 4-inch squares. You will need 8 squares

in total. Make a mound of about 2 tbsp. of the stuffi ng mixture

in the center of the ravioli squares. Make an egg wash with the

egg and milk and cover the perimeter of the squares. Cover with

another sheet of ravioli dough and seal fi rmly with a scalloped

pastry roller or your fi ngers. When ready to serve, blanch the

ravioli in boiling salted water for 3 minutes until tender.

Tip:If you are concerned about making your own ravioli dough, a good quality

store-bought dough would also work.

Maple Glaze

1 tbsp. butter

2 slices smoked salmon

3/4 cup maple syrup


1/4 cup dill, chopped

1 cup corn niblets (canned is ne)

In a large frying pan over medium heat, melt the butter, then heat

until brown and foaming.

Add the smoked salmon and continue browning. Add the

maple syrup and reduce liquid by 50%, or until salmon looks

like marmalade.

Add the salt, pepper, dill, and corn niblets.

Place on serving plates. Drizzle the Maple Glaze onto ravioli just

before serving.


Veal Ravioli

This is how a German chef tries to be Italian. Let me know how

Im doing Youll need to prepare the Basic Ravioli on page 196


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I m doing. You ll need to prepare the Basic Ravioli on page 196.

Filling



1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 lb. ground veal

1 cup frozen spinach, thawed, drained, chopped

2 cups pecorino cheese, grated

1/2 cup fresh white bread crumbs

1/4 cup milk


salt and black pepper to taste

1 recipe Basic Ravioli (page 196)

In a large pan, heat oil over medium heat. Saut the onion,

garlic, and veal until the veal is cooked through. Drain off any

excess oil. Add the remaining ingredients. The mixture should

be dry but tacky to the touch. Chill in the refrigerator while you

make the ravioli dough.

Fill ravioli with the chilled veal mixture then cook in a large pot of

boiling salted water until the ravioli fl oat to the surface. Remove

with a slotted spoon.

Sauce

1/2 cup olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp. pine nuts

1 tbsp. sage, sliced


1 bulb fennel, diced

2 tsp. lemon zest, or the zest of 1 large lem

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