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552 THE ANALYTICAL SANITARY COMMISSION. RECORDS OF THE RESULTS OF MICROSCOPICAL AND CHEMICAL ANALYSES OF THE SOLIDS AND FLUIDS CONSUMED BY ALL CLASSES OF THE PUBLIC. COCOA, AND ITS A D U L T E R A T I O N S. COCOA is prepared from the seeds of the THEOBROMA CACAO, which is cultivated chiefly in the West Indies, and parts of South America. The seeds are enclosed in pods several inches in length, and are arranged round and attached to a central axis; each pod includes a considerable number of seeds, from twenty to thirty, and in some cases even more. They resemble somewhat, in shape, almonds, but are about twice as large. There are several varieties of cocoa, named after the places from which they are procured: the three principal are, Trini- dad, Maragnon, and Bahia cocoas. Of these the Trinidad is the best, and the Bahia the least valuable; the latter kind is distinguished by the smoothness of the seeds and their bright red colour. Dr. Ure, in his "Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and Mines," gives the following particulars in reference to cocoa and chocolate :- " Chocolate is an alimentary preparation of very ancient use in Mexico, from which country it was introduced into Europe by the Spaniards in the year 1520, and by them long kept a secret from the rest of the world. Linnseus was so fond of it, that he gave the specific name, theobroma, food of the gods, to the cacao tree which produced it. The cacao beans lie in a fruit somewhat like a cucumber, about five inches long, and three inches and a half thick, which contains from twenty to thirty beans, arranged in five regular rows, with partitions between, and which are surrounded with a rose- coloured spongy substance, like that of water-melons. There are fruits, however, so large as to contain from forty to fifty beans. Those grown in the West India Islands, Berbice and Demerara, are much smaller, and have only from six to fifteen; their development being less perfect than in South America. After the maturation of the fruit, when their green colour has changed to a dark yellow, they are plucked, opened, their beans cleared of the marrowy substance, and spread out to dry in the air. Like almonds they are covered with a thin skin, or husk. In the West Indies they are immediately packed up for the market when they are dried; but in the Caraccas they are subjected to a species of slight fermentation, by putting them into tubs or chests, covering them with boards or stones, and turning them over every morning to equalize the operation. They emit a good deal of moisture, lose the natural bitterness and acrimony of their taste by this process, as well as some of their weight. Instead of wooden tubs, pits, or trenches dug in the ground, are sometimes had recourse to for curing the beans-an operation called earthing (terrer.) They are lastly exposed to the sun, and dried. The latter kind are reckoned the best, being larger, rougher, of a darker brown colour, and, when roasted, throw off their husks readily, and split into several irregular fragments; they have an agree- able mild bitterish taste, without acrimony. The Guiana and West India sort are smaller, flatter, smoother-skinned, lighter- coloured, more sharp and bitter to the taste. They answer best for the extraction of the butter of cacao, but afford a less aromatic and agreeable chocolate. The fatty matter is of the consistence of tallow, white, of a mild agreeable taste, called butter of cacao, and not apt to turn rancid by keeping. It melts only at 122° Fahr., and should therefore make tolerable candles. It is soluble in boiling alcohol, but precipitates in the cold. It is obtained by exposing the beans to strong pressure in canvas bags, after they have been steamed or soaked in boiling water for some time. From five to six ounces of butter may be thus obtained from a pound of cacao. It has a reddish tinge when first expressed, but it becomes white by boiling with water, The beans, being freed from all spoiled and mouldy por- tions, are to be gently roasted over a fire in an iron cylinder, with holes in its ends for allowing the vapours to escape, the apparatus being similar to a coffee-roaster. When the aroma begins to be well developed, the roasting is known to be finished; and the beans must be turned out, cooled, and freed, by fanning and sifting, from their husks." COMPOSITION OF COCOA. The following is the composition of 100 parts of the seeds of West India cocoa, deprived of husk, according to Lampe- dius :- The above analysis is very nearly accurate, but we believe that the proportion of starch is somewhat underrated. It is evident, then, that the nutritive properties of cocoa are very great, and that from the quantity of fatty matter present, it is especially adapted to the maintenance of respi- ration, and the temperature of the body, as well as to the development of fat. When genuine, cocoa is a very wholesome as well as nutritious article of diet, and one which ought to be more generally employed. According to some analysts, cocoa contains theine, the active principle of tea. The shells, or husks, form about twelve per cent. of the weight of the beans; they contain but little fat, much lignine, and some mucilage. STRUCTURE OF THE COCOA-SEED. It is of very great importance that the minute structure of all vegetable substances employed in food and medicine should be thoroughly understood, for without such knowledge it is quite impossible to detect the adulterations to which the majority of these substances are liable. The structure of the seed, or bean, as it is sometimes called, of the cocoa, is very characteristic, although somewhat com- plicated; in it, as in other seeds, two parts require to be dis. tinguished, the shell or husk, and the seed proper. The first structure noticed on the surface of the seed, con- sists of a considerable number of tubular jibres of large size. FiG. 1. This engraving represents the tubular fibres usually observed in greater or less numbers on the surface of the cocoa-seed. The fibrero are magnified 100 diameters.
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Page 1: RECORDS OF THE RESULTS OF MICROSCOPICAL AND CHEMICAL ANALYSES OF THE SOLIDS AND FLUIDS CONSUMED BY ALL CLASSES OF THE PUBLIC.

552

THE

ANALYTICAL SANITARYCOMMISSION.

RECORDS OF THE RESULTS OF

MICROSCOPICAL AND CHEMICAL ANALYSESOF THE

SOLIDS AND FLUIDS

CONSUMED BY ALL CLASSES OF THE PUBLIC.

COCOA,AND ITS

A D U L T E R A T I O N S.

COCOA is prepared from the seeds of the THEOBROMA CACAO,which is cultivated chiefly in the West Indies, and parts ofSouth America.The seeds are enclosed in pods several inches in length, and

are arranged round and attached to a central axis; each podincludes a considerable number of seeds, from twenty to thirty,and in some cases even more. They resemble somewhat, inshape, almonds, but are about twice as large.There are several varieties of cocoa, named after the places

from which they are procured: the three principal are, Trini-dad, Maragnon, and Bahia cocoas. Of these the Trinidad isthe best, and the Bahia the least valuable; the latter kind isdistinguished by the smoothness of the seeds and their brightred colour.Dr. Ure, in his "Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures, and

Mines," gives the following particulars in reference to cocoaand chocolate :-

" Chocolate is an alimentary preparation of very ancientuse in Mexico, from which country it was introduced intoEurope by the Spaniards in the year 1520, and by them longkept a secret from the rest of the world. Linnseus was sofond of it, that he gave the specific name, theobroma, food ofthe gods, to the cacao tree which produced it. The cacaobeans lie in a fruit somewhat like a cucumber, about fiveinches long, and three inches and a half thick, which containsfrom twenty to thirty beans, arranged in five regular rows, with

partitions between, and which are surrounded with a rose-coloured spongy substance, like that of water-melons. Thereare fruits, however, so large as to contain from forty to fiftybeans. Those grown in the West India Islands, Berbice andDemerara, are much smaller, and have only from six to fifteen;their development being less perfect than in South America.After the maturation of the fruit, when their green colour haschanged to a dark yellow, they are plucked, opened, theirbeans cleared of the marrowy substance, and spread out to dryin the air. Like almonds they are covered with a thin skin,or husk. In the West Indies they are immediately packedup for the market when they are dried; but in the Caraccasthey are subjected to a species of slight fermentation, byputting them into tubs or chests, covering them with boardsor stones, and turning them over every morning to equalizethe operation. They emit a good deal of moisture, lose thenatural bitterness and acrimony of their taste by this process,as well as some of their weight. Instead of wooden tubs, pits,or trenches dug in the ground, are sometimes had recourse tofor curing the beans-an operation called earthing (terrer.)They are lastly exposed to the sun, and dried. The latterkind are reckoned the best, being larger, rougher, of a darkerbrown colour, and, when roasted, throw off their husks readily,and split into several irregular fragments; they have an agree-able mild bitterish taste, without acrimony. The Guiana andWest India sort are smaller, flatter, smoother-skinned, lighter-coloured, more sharp and bitter to the taste. They answerbest for the extraction of the butter of cacao, but afford a lessaromatic and agreeable chocolate. The fatty matter is of theconsistence of tallow, white, of a mild agreeable taste, calledbutter of cacao, and not apt to turn rancid by keeping. Itmelts only at 122° Fahr., and should therefore make tolerablecandles. It is soluble in boiling alcohol, but precipitates inthe cold. It is obtained by exposing the beans to strongpressure in canvas bags, after they have been steamed orsoaked in boiling water for some time. From five to sixounces of butter may be thus obtained from a pound of cacao.It has a reddish tinge when first expressed, but it becomeswhite by boiling with water, ’

The beans, being freed from all spoiled and mouldy por-tions, are to be gently roasted over a fire in an iron cylinder,with holes in its ends for allowing the vapours to escape, theapparatus being similar to a coffee-roaster. When the aromabegins to be well developed, the roasting is known to befinished; and the beans must be turned out, cooled, and freed,by fanning and sifting, from their husks."

COMPOSITION OF COCOA.The following is the composition of 100 parts of the seeds

of West India cocoa, deprived of husk, according to Lampe-dius :-

The above analysis is very nearly accurate, but we believethat the proportion of starch is somewhat underrated.It is evident, then, that the nutritive properties of cocoa

are very great, and that from the quantity of fatty matterpresent, it is especially adapted to the maintenance of respi-ration, and the temperature of the body, as well as to thedevelopment of fat.When genuine, cocoa is a very wholesome as well as

nutritious article of diet, and one which ought to be moregenerally employed. According to some analysts, cocoacontains theine, the active principle of tea.The shells, or husks, form about twelve per cent. of the

weight of the beans; they contain but little fat, much lignine,and some mucilage.

STRUCTURE OF THE COCOA-SEED.It is of very great importance that the minute structure of

all vegetable substances employed in food and medicineshould be thoroughly understood, for without such knowledgeit is quite impossible to detect the adulterations to which themajority of these substances are liable.The structure of the seed, or bean, as it is sometimes called,

of the cocoa, is very characteristic, although somewhat com-plicated; in it, as in other seeds, two parts require to be dis.tinguished, the shell or husk, and the seed proper.The first structure noticed on the surface of the seed, con-

sists of a considerable number of tubular jibres of large size.

FiG. 1.

This engraving represents the tubular fibres usually observed ingreater or less numbers on the surface of the cocoa-seed. Thefibrero are magnified 100 diameters.

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containing granular matter and minute corpuscles; theyare more abundant on some seeds than others, and do notappear to form part of the seed itself, but to belong rather tothe seed vessel, and are probably derived from the spongysubstance which surrounds the seeds when in the pod; the fibresfor the most part run parallel to each other in the course ofthe long axis of the seed.The husk may be separated into three or four distinct tunics

or membranes.The first or outer membrane consists of elongated cells,

adapted to each other, and disposed in a single layer, withtheir long diameters placed transversely to the axis of the seed.The second tunic is constituted of large angular cells, super-

imposed in several closely connected layers; towards thecentre of the membrane formed by them the cells increasegreatly in size; their parietes become thin and diaphanous,and their cavities falled with a mucilaginous substance, which,in seeds soaked in water for some hours, is seen to be con-siderable in quantity.These two membranes, together with the enlarged cells, are

delineated in the accompanying woodcut.

Fio. 2. I

This engraving represents the two outer tunics of the husk of theseed of cocoa, together with the enlarged and mucilage-bearingcells-a, outer membrane; b, second tunic; c, mucilage cells.This figure, as well as the three following, are magnified 220diameters.

As the cells forming the second membrane approach thesurface of the seed, they lose their mucilaginous character,become smaller, and return to their original size.

If now the surface of an entire seed enclosed in its mem-brane be examined, several raised lines or fibres will be ob-served, commencing at the end of the seed attached to theseed-vessel, spreading themselves out over its surface, andterminating at the distal extremity of the seed; these fibresare composed of spiral vessels, which lie imbedded in woodytissue and the cells above described.The second membrane forms the chief substance and thick-

ness of the husk.The third membrane, thin and delicate, consists of angular

cells of small size, the cavities of which contain minuteglobules of fat; in removing the outer tunics this membranesometimes comes away in part with them, but in general thegreater portion adheres to the surface of the seed. Thismembrane covers not only the outer surface of the lobes ofthe seed, but also dips down between them, and furnisheseach of the opposed sides with a covering; it is most evident,however, on the external surface. It is probable, notwith-standing it may be exhibited as a separate tunic, that it is yet,strictly speaking, not to be regarded as a distinct structure,

y_ In this figure the cells, moody fibres, and spirad vessels, are delineated,which constitute the deep portion of the second membrane.

but that it really belongs to the seed, since on removing Ï6cells belonging to the substance of the seed frequently comeaway with it; the colourless cells constituting it being evi-dently gradually transformed into the coloured ones of theseed itself. Although we have described this membrane as asingle and continuous structure, it is really compound, eachlobe being furnished with a distinct membrane of similar con-struction.

FiG. 4.

In this engraving the third and fourth tunics, together with theseveral structures connected with the latter, are de-lineated-a, third tunic &, rounded cells, derived from the secondmembrane, lying upon the fourth membrane, and situated at thelines of junction of the lobes; c, fourth or fibrous membrane;d d, elongated bodies; e e, rounded masses of crystalline fattymatter; ff, crystals of 9nargarine,

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Situated in the interspaces of the lobes is a fourth structure,attached externally to the second membrane, the cells formingwhich pass down upon it for a short distance ; although clear andtransparent, it exhibits a fibrous structure, and on its surfacea considerable number of small crystals are always to be seen,consisting probably of margarine, as well as many elongatedbodies, rounded at either extremity, and divided into severalcompartments or cells, and which do not appear to be attachedto the membrane on which they lie. From their curiousappearance, and the absence of connexion with any of theother structures of the cocoa, the observer is led to suspectthat they are extraneous growths, probably fungoid. Wehave detected them in every sample of cocoa-seed submittedto examination. (See Fig. 4.)We have now completed the description of the several

structures which enter into the composition of the husk ofcocoa, which, although it contains scarcely any oil, and nostarch, and is therefore but little nutritive, is yet present inalmost every sample of flake, rock, and other less-carefullymanufactured preparations of cocoa.The French chocolate manufacturers rarely make use of the

husk, but generally dispose of it, obtaining about threepenceper pound. ,

The greater part of the rejected and comparatively worth-less husks find their way to Ireland.Of these husks, Dr. Ure states 612,123 lbs., out of ’753,580

imported for consumption in 1840, were consumed in Ireland,and less than 4000 lbs. of cocoa-beans.There is reason to believe that in some cases the fragments of

husk prove irritating to the intestines, and occasion diarrhoea.The seed, deprived of its husk, is seen to be composed of

several lobes, angular in form, and irregular in size and shape;under pressure, these readily separate from each other, andthe seed breaks up into pieces, which are known as "nibs."The lobes are constituted of innumerable minute cells, of a

rounded form, the cavities of which are filled with starch-corpuscles and fatty matter.

FN. 5.

This figure represents the cells which form the kernel of the seed.In A, the cells and contained starch-corpuscles are magnified220 diameters; and in B, 500 diameters.

On the surface of the seed these cells become angular bycompression, and are usually of a deep-red colour; the tint,however, varies greatly; they are frequently, in parts, spottedwith purple, and even deep-blue.Each cell contains many starch-corpuscles, small in size, of

a rounded form, and which often present an obscure, radiate,or stellate hilum.Placed at one extremity of the seed is the embryo; this

consists of cellular tissue, the cells or meshes of which enclosenumerous starch-granules and spherules of oil.Now, in the more carefully-prepared chocolates, the whole

of the structures represented in figs. 1, 2, & 3 are absent, andthose delineated in fig. 4, and especially fig. 5, only are metwith; in some cases the embryo even is removed; but this, ’,since it forms so inconsiderable a part of the entire seed, andcontains, moreover, starch and fat, appears to be almost an Iover-refinement. J.

ON THE ADULTERATION OF COCOA.

In this country cocoa is sold under the names flake, rock,granulated, soluble, dietetic, hornoeopathic cocoa, &c.Now there is nothing in these names to indicate that the

articles in question are anything more than varieties of cocoa,or to show, what is too frequently the case, that they arecompounds of sugar, starch, cocoa, and oftentimes other sub-stances.The practice of calling- these rnixed articles COCOA is mani-

festly as improper and deceptive as it is to call the compoundof coffee and chico2,y, Patent Compressed Coffee, Finest OldTurkey Coffee, &c.The French and other continental manufacturers of cocoa

adopt a more straightforward and proper course: they nevercall their compound and manufactured articles cocoa, butchocolate; thus they even denominate the cakes which theyprepare, and which contain nothing but cocoa, chocolate-"chocolat sans sucre," although, with strict propriety, theymight in this case have used the word cocot.The cocoa, then, of the English makers in general is not

cocoa at all, but chocolate; whenever, therefore, the wordcocoa, an adjective of indefinite signification being prefixed,is employed to designate an article which is not pure or genuinecocoa, we shall consider and describe that article as adulterated-a course which is not only suggested by common sense, butalso justified by the law, as framed to prevent the adultera-tion of cocoa.’ The works of Accum, Brande, Ure,and Pereira, contain butlittle information respecting the adulteration of cocoa; theonly English writers who have treated of it at all fully beingMitchell and Normandy.The first of these authors (Mitchell) has the following

observations on the subject:-" Chocolate is adulterated with flour, potato-starch, and

sugar, together with cocoa-nut oil, lard, or even tallow. Eventhe so-called finest chocolate is made up with clarified mutton-suet and common sugar, together with ordinary cocoa.

" If in breaking chocolate it is gravelly,—if it melt in themouth without leaving a cool, refreshing taste,-if it, on theaddition of hot water, becomes thick and pasty; and, lastly,if it form a gelatinous mass on cooling, it is adulterated withstarch and such-like substances." Where earthy and other solid substances are deposited

from chocolate mixed with water, either the beans have notbeen well cleansed, inferior sugar has been employed, ormineral substances have been added to it, either for thepurpose of colouring or of increasing its weight.

" Moreover, when chocolate has a kind of cheesy taste,animal fat has been added; and when very rancid, eithervegetable oil, or even the seeds themselves, have been em-ployed in the sophistication."The mineral substances employed in the making up of

chocolate are some of the ochres, both red and yellow, togetherwith minium (red lead), vermillion, sulphate of lime, chalk, &c.Chocolate so adulterated, more especially with the preparationsof lead, are highly injurious; it is, however, only the inferiorchocolates that are thus adulterated."From the work of Normandy we extract the following

remarks :-" Unfortunately, however, many of the preparations of the

cocoa-nut, sold under the names of chocolate, of cocoa flakes,and of chocolate powder, consist of a most disgusting mixtureof bad or musty cocoa-nuts, with their shells, coarse sugar ofthe very lowest quality, ground with potato-starch, old sea-biscuits, coarse branny flour, animal fat (generally tallow, oreven greaves). I have known cocoa-powder made of potato-starch, moistened with a decoction of cocoa-nut shells, andsweetened with treacle; chocolate made of the same materials,with the additions of tallow and of ochre. I have also metwith chocolate in which brick-dust or red.ochre bad beenintroduced to the extent of twelve per cent.; another samplecontained twenty-two per cent. of peroxide of iron, the restbeing starch, cocoa-nuts with their shells, and tallow. Messrs.Jules Garnier and Harel assert that cinnabar and red-leadhave been found in certain samples of chocolate, and thatserious accidents had been caused by that diabolical adultera-tion. Genuine chocolate is of a dark brown colour; that whichhas been adulterated is generally redder, though this brighterhue is sometimes given to excellent chocolate, especially inSpain, by means of a little annato. This addition is unob-jectionable, provided the annato is pure, which, however, isnot always the case."In the above quotations mention is made of the chief

adulterations to which cocoa is subject; we will therefore

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proceed to consider the methods by which they may bedetected.

ON THE DETECTION OF FOREIGN FATTY MATTER.

Animal oils and fats, on exposure to the air for a time,become rancid and disagreeable to the taste; for theirdetection, therefore, it is recommended that the suspectedcocoa should be spread out, and subjected to the action of theatmosphere.

" The adulteration by lard, tallow, oils, and suet," writesMitchell, " are best detected by the taste, after the chocolatehas been exposed for some time to the action of the air in atolerably warm place. In order to effect the desired changerapidly, the chocolate should be scraped very fine, and spreadout upon a plate or piece of paper. In a few days the foreignfatty matters will become rancid, and can then be detected bythe peculiarly disagreeable taste and smell which fatty sub-stances in that condition possess."

" The presence of animal fats," states Normandy,"may bedetected by the palate, for the chocolate generally has, in tha.tcase, a cheesy flavour; or, when common butter or oil hasbeen added, it has a rancid flavour. This is quite charac-teristic, for butter of cocoa always remains perfectly sweet.The presence of animal fats, or of oils, may also be re-

eognised by saponifying a portion of the chocolate as follows:-Rasp about 2000 grains of the chocolate under examination,and boil them with water and some caustic potash. Whenthe fat has saponified, dilute the mass with a sufficient quantityof water, and filter three or four times. The milky filtrate,which is, in fact, a solution of soap, should now be super-saturated with nitric acid; this will separate the fat, whichwill float on the liquor after cooling. It may then be col-lected on a filter, and on rubbing a small portion of it betweenthe fingers, the odour will generally indicate its origin; butmore effectually still by heating it in a small capsule. Purebutter of cocoa has no odour. Or the chocolate may be ex-hausted by sulphuric ether, and by evaporating it, the fat willbe left behind, and may then be identified, as just said."Themethods of detection pointed out in the above paragraphs ;

are not without practical value; we believe, however, that weshall be able to suggest a different plan, by which the presenceof foreign fatty matter may be determined with considerableease and certainty.This consists in ascertaining, by boiling, the quantity of

fat present in any sample of cocoa of given weight, and byobserving the size and form of the concrete fat-globules whichform on the surface of the decoction when cold.One half-ounce of genuine Trinidad cocoa, prepared from

the kernels only, and boiled for ten minutes with ten ouncesof water, yields about sixty-five grains of concrete fat, exclu-sive of loss.The same quantity of genuine flaked cocoa, which contains

both kernels and husk, boiled for the same period, yields aboutforty grains.When, therefore, a sample of cocoa, treated as above, is

found to contain a greater proportion of fat, there is noquestion, if the excess be at all considerable, and amount toseveral grains, that foreign fatty matter has been mixed withthe cocoa.But in some cases there may be no excess of fat, and even

a deficiency, and yet animal oil or fat may have been addedto the cocoa-circumstances sufficiently explained by the fact,that in many adulterated samples, sugar, starch, and a smallproportion of animal fat, are frequently made to supply, to agreat extent, the place of cocoa.In all cases in which the presence of animal oil or fat is

suspected, it is then of importance to notice the number, size,and form of the fat globules and discs which collect on thesurface of a cup of cocoa when cold; if these be numerous, firm,shot-like, and globular, except on the upper surface, which isslightly flattened, and very small, rarely exceeding the twelfthof an inch, then there is no doubt but that the globules inquestion consist of the fat or bntter proper to cocoa.

If, however, on the other hand, the globules be large, flat, or ’,disc-like, exceed this size considerably, attaining, some of them,to one-fourth of an inch, and even more in diameter, then animalfat or oil is present, a conclusion which may be still furtherconfirmed by testing the fat, keeping it for a time, and observ-ing whether it becomes rancid or not.Cocoa as ordinarily met with is mixed with variable, and

often very considerable, quantities of sugar and starch. Inorder to ascertain whether the presence of these substancesmodifies in any way the quantity of oil which collects on thesurface, or the size and form of the globules, we institutedthe following trials or experiments.

One ounce of a mixture consisting of equal parts of genuinecocoa and white sugar were boiled for ten minutes in tenounces of water; the globules which formed on the surfaceof the fluid when cold, did not differ materially in size andshape from those which occurred on the decoction of purecocoa, but the quantity of oil was a few grains less.The same quantity of a mixture consisting of three parts of

cocoa and one of potato-flour was treated in a similarmanner; in this case the quantity of fat which rose to thesurface was much less than in the former case, and the globulesof oil smaller.

It is thus evident that the presence of neither sugar norstarch modifies very considerably the size and form of thefatty globules of cocoa, although less fat, with the latter espe-cially, collects on the surface.

ON THE DETECTION OF STARCH.

For the detection of starch we are recommended to makeuse of iodine. Now those who give this recommendation surelycannot be aware of the fact that the cocoa-seeds contain cer-tainly not less than 11 per cent. of starch, and, therefore, thatthis re-agent, if properly applied, invariably shows the presenceof starch in every sample of cocoa, even the most genuine.But little reliance, therefore, ought to be placed on iodinefor the detection of this adulteration, and those not awarethat starch exists in cocoa might be led by its use into seriouserror.

It is not a little remarkable that those who advise the useof iodine make no reference, although their works were pub-lished within the last year or so, to the microscope as a meansof detecting starch in cocoa, and yet this instrument is capable,not only of affording a good idea of the amount of starchpresent, but enables the observer to discriminate the severalkinds of starch from each other, and to say whether wheat,potato, sago, or arrow-root starch, has been employed in theadulteration.

In,determining the quantity of starch present in any sampleof cocoa, it is well not to rely solely upon the microscope, butto observe the consistency of the decoction when cold; if theamount of starch be very considerable, forty or fifty per cent.,the liquid will be thick and jelly-like.In making observations on the comparative density of

cold decoctions of cocoa containing different per centages ofstarch, we noticed that after a time the starch ceased to beuniformly diffused throughout the fluid, and that it, as well asthe heavier particles of cocoa, subsided, leaving a supernatantstratum of clear liquid; this stratum varying in thickness ac-cording to the quantity of starch present, and being mostshallow where there was most fecula, and deepest where thiswas least.

It then occurred to us that in the fact of the subsidence ofthe starch we had a means of determining with considerableprecision the per centage of that substance present in anysample of cocoa.We accordingly filled five tubular glasses, each seven inches

and a half in height, three-fourths of an inch in diameter, andholding twelve drachms of water, with five different cold de-coctions of cocoa, containing respectively 50,40,30, 20, and 10per cent. each of starch; in the first, the thickness of the clearstratum was one inch, in the second, one inch and a half,in the third, two inches, in the fourth, two inches and a half,and in the fifth, three inches. It is to be understood, however,that these measurements are approximately correct only, andthat to obtain perfectly accurate results it is necessary thatthe experiments should be carefully repeated. The propor-tion of the ingredients forming each decoction was 220 grainsby weight of the mixture of cocoa and potato flour, to eightounces of water, the boiling being continued for five minutesin each case.Should the cocoa contain sugar as well as starch, this must

be first removed, or its amount being ascertained, a corre-

sponding allowance in the thickness of the stratum of clearfluid made.The specific gravity of the decoction also enables us to form

an approximate opinion as to the amount of starch present;this of course being greatest where there is most fecula.Mr. Mitchell gives the following directions for the detec-

tion of starch in cocoa, from which it is clear that he was notaware that the seeds naturally contain a considerable quantityof starch :-

" Act upon about half an ounce of the suspected chocolatewith a teacupful or more of hot water. Mix all well togetherin a mortar, and set aside to cool; when cold, add a few dropsof a solution of iodine in water, (prepared as described under

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the article Flour.) If starch or flour be present, or groundbeans or peas, or any substance containing starch, a bluecoloration will occur. This coloration will be intense in pro-portion to the quantity of starch present. If only a very smallquantity of starch be present, it will be advisable to strain themixture of chocolate and water through a linen cloth, and acton the strained liquid with the solution of iodine. An alco-holic solution of iodine is also suited to this purpose. If thechocolate acted on be pure, only a yellowish-brown colorationwill take place :’The directions by Normandy are more brief, but to the same

purpose :-" Genuine chocolate should dissolve in the mouth without

grittiness; it should leave a peculiar sensation of freshness,and after boiling it with water the emulsion should not form ajelly when cold; if it does, starch or flour is present. Theadmixture of flour or of starch, moreover, may be readily de-tected by the blue colour which is imparted to the decoction,after cooling, by solution of iodine."

ON THE DETECTION OF SUGAR.

The presence of sugar in cocoa may be readily detected bythe taste. To determine the quantity, the following simplebut efficient proceeding may be adopted :-Dissolve a weighedquantity of cocoa containing sugar in cold water, filter, drythe residue by means of blotting paper and heat, weigh; theloss will indicate very nearly the amount of sugar with whichthe sample of cocoa operated upon was admixed.To show to what extent this method may be relied upon,

we may mention that we dissolved one ounce of a mixture inequal proportions of cocoa and sugar in water, and afterwardsdried the residue, the weight of which was short of fourdrachms only twenty-eight grains.

ON THE DETECTION OF MINERAL SUBSTANCES.

Of the mineral substances employed in the adulteration ofcocoa, some are used for the sake of their weight; of these thechief are carbonate of lime or chalk, and sulphate of lime orplaster of Paris, and especially the former.Other substances are employed for the colour they impart,

and these are frequently had recourse to; the principal arered earth, red ochre, or Venetian red.For the detection of these earths an ounce of each of the

samples of cocoas to be analyzed should be incinerated, andthe ash weighed and tested.

If chalk or carbonate of lime be present, an effervescencewill ensue on the application of a mineral acid.

If the presence of any of the red earths be suspected, asthese all contain iron, the ash should be tested for this metal,for which purpose it should first be treated with hydrochloricacid; this should afterwards be diluted, and the proper re-agents applied.

Mitchell gives the following directions for the detection ofearthy matters :-" A considerable quantity of the suspected chocolate must

be treated with successive portions of hot water, as long asanything seems to be dissolved. The best method of operatingis as follows:-

" The finely-scraped chocolate (say a quarter of a pound) isplaced in a large vessel, and two or three quarts of warmwater poured upon it, and the whole well stirred. After abouta quarter of an honr, the supernatant liquid may be pouredoff, and the residual matter again treated with hot water, untilnearly tasteless. It is now to be collected, dried, and tested." IUnder this head Normandy has the following observations: z,"l3rick-diast, and other earthy matters, are detected by ’,

incinerating a given weight of the chocolate or cocoa under ’,examination; the impurities remain among the ashes, andmay be easily recognised. This adulteration is also readily ’,detected by grating 500 grains of the chocolate in as fine apowder as possible, throwing it into about half a pint of coldwater, stirring the whole briskly for about ten minutes, leav-ing it at rest for about two minutes, and decanting the super- I

natant liquor. The earthy matter will then have subsided, and Iwill be left as sediment :’

The Report of the Analytical Sanitary Commission on

COCOA, IAND ITS !

ADULTERATIONS, will be continued in THE LANCET of the 24th May.

Correspondence.

THE ANALYTICAL SANITARY COMMISSION, ANDMR. ABBISS.

"Audi alteram partem."

To the Editor of THE LANCET.SiR,—Allow me to state that I have been an assistant at

Messrs. Abbiss & Co. for these last five years, and can positivelyassert that during that time there has been nothing whatevermixed in his coffee but pure chicory; and from my knowledgeof the article, having been in the trade for thirty years, ambound to believe your assertion to be quite incorrect.

I am, Sir, your most obedient servant,60, Gracechurch-street, May, 12,1851. BENJAMIN JAMES.

To the Editor of THE LANCET.Sin,—Having for the last seven years had the most ample

means of knowing the nianner in which Mr. Abbiss’s businessis conducted, and being satisfied that an adulteration of coffeewith wheat farina could not be accomplished without myknowledge, I wish to state, in the strongest and most solemnmanner, that no such adulteration has ever been made hereand that I have no alternative than to believe " The Anaa-lytical Sanitary Commission" to be in error.

I am, Sir, your obedient servant,JOHN THOMAS WHEELPEIGH1’.

60, Gracechurch-street, May 12, 1851.

To the Editor of THE LANCET.

SiB,—I have been in the employment of Mr. James Abbissfor nearly two years, during which time I have often seen thecoffee mixed, and sometimes mixed it myself, but with nothingbut pure chicory; and to my certain knowledge there neverhas been anything but pure chicory for the above purpose onthe premises. And, Sir, I must tell you, that, from my ex-perience of my master, I believe him to be quite incapable ofsuch a petty fraud as that of which you have so wrongfullyaccused him.

I remain, Sir, your obedient servant,60, Gracechurch-street, May 12, 1851. TERTIUS iLr4H$.

To the Editor of THE LANCET.

8IR,-I beg most respectfully to inform you, that I havebeen in the employment of Messrs. Abbiss & Co., No. 60,

: Gracechurch-street, City, for the last four years, during whichtime I have had the sole management of the coffees, and domost solemnly declare, that nothing but pure chicory is mixedwith the coffee. As to wheat farina, I never saw anything ofthe kind ever since I have been in the trade, which is nowtwenty-three years.

I remain, Sir, yours respectfully,WM. JAMES LEWINGTON.

60, Gracechurch.street, City, May 12, 1851.

To the Editor of THE LANCET.Patent Desiccating Coffee Company,

10, qsborn-street, Whitechapel.SiB,—Having for a considerable time roasted all Mr. Abbiss’s

chicory, as well as a moiety of his coffee, I am ready to makean affidavit that no adulteration has .been effected at myestablishment, either by myself or by any person in my employ,and that all goods entrusted to my care, either for roastingor grinding, are returned to their owners in the same purestate as received.

I am, Sir, yours respectfully,London, May 13, 1851.

-

JOHN RELFE.

To the Editor of THE LANCET.Patent Desiccating Coffee Company,

10, Osborn-street, Whitechapel.

SiR,-We, the undersigned, being in the employ of theabove company, having heard of the charges affecting Mr.Abbiss’s moral and commercial character by your paper, begleave to state, that all coffee and chicory roasted by us for

BENJAMIN JAMES.

JOHN THOMAS WHEELWRIGHT.

TERTIUS CLARK.

WM. JAMES LEWINGTON.

JOHN RELFE.


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