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Fabric Quality Classifications and Definitions

B BRONZING(Leather Only)

Leather turns a bronze color which is caused by the finishing process at the tannery.

C CHENILLE COVER

Light reflects off the nap causing areas of the cover to look dark or light. This is the beauty of the cover, not a defect.

COMPRESSION MARKS

The crushing of the nap that does not recover. Compression marks mainly occur in velvets.

The following classifications and definitions will help identify the most commonly seen fabric and leather quality issues. The ability to accurately identify quality issues will help determine areas for improvement and increase customer satisfaction.

COLOR TRANSFER

When the fabric or leather dye rubs off as a result of insufficient dye penetration or dying methods. Color transfer, also called crocking, can occur in dry or wet conditions. This photograph shows pigment from red fabric rubbed off onto a white cloth.

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C CRACKING(Leather Only)

The finish of leather can crack. This is caused when the finish is not properly applied (mill issue), not maintained properly, exposed to direct sunlight, direct heating vents, or if an inappropriate cleaning agent is applied (customer issue). Cracking can occur for one or all of the above reasons.

F

FADING Over a period of time the color of a fabric or leather may become lighter if it is exposed to direct sunlight (customer issue). This photograph shows an example of fading; the swatch laying on top is the original color.

FINISH COMING OFF

(Leather Only)

The finish on the leather is not properly applied (issue with tannery) or is not maintained properly (customer issue), especially evident on the seam in this sample.

FRAYING Surface yarns in woven fabric break or fray and become unraveled. This is usually caused by animals, shoe buckles, belts, jewelry, etc. (customer issue).

FABRIC SEPARATION

This occurs when weak yarns are woven together causing the fabric to pull apart.

Fraying

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N NAP LOSS A general term used when the raised fibers of velvet and chenille covers wear off the base cloth structure.

O ODOR

The heat transfer process, used to manufacture 100% cotton printed fabrics, causes the oil in the cotton to emit some odor. Leathers have a natural "new smell" odor. Some leather additives can cause a fishy or raw odor called a Malodor. All odors whether in fabric or leather will dissipate with time.

M MISWEAVEBad spot, hole or flaw on the face of the fabric. Something mechanical misses the process of interlacing yarns lengthwise and crosswise on the loom.

PLAIDS/STRIPES

The pattern in a plaid or stripe fabric does not line up. The repeat in the pattern does not conform to industry standards.

P PILLING Balled or matted particles of fiber that work loose from the fabric and remain attached to the surface of the fabric. Pilling may also occur on fabric from external sources such as hair, pet fur, clothing fibers, etc.

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S SEAM FAILURE

Broken sew threads along the seam line. This is a manufacturing defect.

SEAM SLIPPAGE

Sewing is up to standards. Fabric is failing at the seam. This is a fabric concern.

SHADING An apparent difference in color.

SPEWING(Leather Only)

Fat residue crystallizes on the surface of leather. ASTM Definition (D 1517-99 Standard Terminology Relating to Leather), "Any constituent of leather that comes to the surface in the form of a white crystallized or dark gummy deposit." Spewing is a finishing process issue with the tannery. Spew remover can be ordered from a leather repair company.

SEAM FAILURE CHAISE SEAT

The long arm stitch has come unraveled.

SNAGGING Snagging is caused by external objects within the home.

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W WELT YARN SLIPPAGE

Yarn slippage in the fabric covering a small cord sewn along a seam or border. Welt yarn slippage can happen when the yarn is not tied down tight enough.

References: Dictionary of Fiber and Textile Technology; Hoechst Celanese and ASTM Definitions

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