Reinforced PVC Crossbow With Laminated Stock

8/9/2019 Reinforced PVC Crossbow With Laminated Stock

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http://www.instructables.com/id/reinforced-PVC-crossbow-with-laminated-stock/

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reinforced PVC crossbow with laminated stockby otisimo1288 on January 19, 2015

Table of Contents

reinforced PVC crossbow with laminated stock ........................................................................................

Intro: Reinforced PVC crossbow with laminated stock ...............................................................................

Step 1: materials ...........................................................................................................

Step 2: Cutting and marking ..................................................................................................

Step 3: Laminating and the prod ...............................................................................................

Step 4: fixing my screw up ....................................................................................................

Step 5: shaping the stock .................................................................................................... 1

Step 6: hardware ........................................................................................................... 1

Step 7: attaching the prod .................................................................................................... 2

Step 8: final thoughts ........................................................................................................ 2

Related Instructables ........................................................................................................ 2

Advertisements ............................................................................................................... 2

Comments ................................................................................................................ 2

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Intro: Reinforced PVC crossbow with laminated stockWARNING-Don't be foolish with weapons or power tools they are dangerous.

This is not powerful enough for big game.

I made this for my sister. She has shown some interest in archery and I couldn't think of anything to get her for her birthday. Really I just wanted an excuse. this is myfirst instructable so sorry for the shotty camera work.The bow is a prod when talking about crossbows

Thanks to nick at backyard Bowyer after seeing his crossbow I had to make one

http://backyardbowyer.blogspot.com/?m=1

His YouTube Chanel is great check it out

http://m.youtube.com/user/BackyardBowyer

I got a lot of inspiration form

http://www.poodwaddle.com/crossbow/?page_id=2

Tools i used are:

Table saw Dremmel with attachments Belt sander Coping saw Various wood and metal files Clamps Awl Chisels

Hand plane Bench grinder

http://www.poodwaddle.com/crossbow/?page_id=2http://m.youtube.com/user/BackyardBowyerhttp://backyardbowyer.blogspot.com/?m=1


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Step 1: materialsI used 6 foot sections of wood. Red oak, hickory, and mahogany. Look for the straitest grain possible. They are 4 in wide

The pvc pipe is half inch in diameter. I ordered colored schedule 40 sections online, but white schedule 40 is best

fiberglass driveway markers

I also used scrap pvc, a gate hinge and some old bolts

Step 2: Cutting and markingI cut each board down to 3 feet. I used a miter saw but this can also be done by hand. I was going to make it a li ttle longer but I like the idea of having enough extra formistakes.

The pvc pipe comes in five foot sections. Again I cut it in half, 30 in,for extra just in case. The boards were then ripped with a table saw. It was my first time using one so Imade a few mistakes and was very glad to have the extra material. The red oak was ripped to 1/2 in, the hickory to 1/4 in, and the mahogany to 3/16 in.


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Step 3: Laminating and the prodNext the boards were sanded lightly in prep for lamination. I used tight bond 3 to glue it all together. After applying glue to the layers smear or paint the glue so it coatsthe entire board. Then clamp! The more the better! I didn't use as many as I should have. Also they were sandwiched between some scrap 2by4's to try to keep an evenpressure while being clamped.

I reinforced the pvc by cutting down two driveway markers to 26 inches. Use a file not a saw to cut! WEAR GLOVES!!! You really don't want fiberglass splinters they hurt,they itch, and you can never get them out.

They were wrapped in vinyl tape after being cut to size. Don't use a lot of tape or you won't be able to get it in the pipe. I used some dish soap to lube them. To get themto to be evenly spaced from the tips I marked 2in on an old socket wrench an hammered it in to the mark. You could easily use a dowl for this.

Next is flattening the pvc. With it being so short I heated it in my oven. Seemed that 230f was the magic number on mine. I sandwiched the pipe between two boards andsat on it for around 10min, clamps could be used here as well.

To curve the tips I simply heated the ends over my stovetop but I normally use a heat gun, both work just as well. Don't burn the pipe! Take your time and heat it slowly.Once it's soft I applied pressure around a tin can.

I used a file to cut the nocks. You want to use the center prong for the string. I cut them a little deeper than in the photo.

Para cord was used for the sting, this is only temporary as I plan to tie a true bowstring in the future. I tied it about two inches shorter the the prong.


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Step 4: fixing my screw upAfter unclamping the boards I shaved it down to remove the uneven edges and make it square. That's when I noticed some pretty significant gaps.

I had never used a table saw before this project and should have run some practice cuts before jumping right in. I purchased some fiber glass resin to fill the gaps.

Before mixing the resin I taped up the boards with wax paper and foil to contain it. After mixing I added a couple drops of red acrylic paint for color.

Pour the resin over the gaps carefully. Then tap the sides to release air bubbles.

After it cured I ran it through the table saw to shave off any excess. Resin doesn't take to chiseling or hand planing well, it chips and cracks.

I felt so relived that the whole thing was salvageable after seeing the end result. I thought it was ruined and that I had to start all over.

On to shaping the wood!!!


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Step 5: shaping the stockI cut down the board to 33 in. This just felt better put up to my shoulder. Then I freehand drew a rough outline. I started the cut with a jigsaw but quickly switched to acoping saw. I prefer hand tools to power tools because, to me, it is way to easy to make a large mistake in a blink of an eye.

After it was cut roughly to shape I took out some old files and went at it. I'm sure there's some easier way to do this but I really enjoy using hand tools. For the butt end ofthe stick a belt sander was used.

To cut the nock for the prod I measured the length and width of the flattened pipe and marked on the wood so it would be recessed and at an angle to reduce wear on thestring. Holes were drilled in the corners, with help from my son. Another hole was drilled at center two inches back from end. This is for the rod to lash down the prod. Istrung my coping saw through the holes and cut it out. I ended up filling it down to size.

After seeing it shaped in decided to cut some more off to give it more of a traditional stock look.

I marked down 15 in and drilled a center hole all the way trough the stock. This is for the trigger. Then on either side a hole was drilled an inch in. These are for posts tohold the string.

To make the arrow channel I first ran a dremmel down the center line to make a groove. Then I wrapped a dowl in sandpaper to get the right width.

I used boiled linseed oil to seal the wood after sanding tool marks out. I used a lot of thin coats over a couple days. You could use any kind of finishing oil or varnish. Ithought about staining it but I like to let the true color of the wood speak for its self


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Step 6: hardwareFor the posts to hold the string I found this little squared rod in my scrap box. It was cut in half and notched around the bottom to grip better. I gently hammered them inafter putting a couple drops of two part epoxy in the hole first. You could use nails or dowls or anything strong enough to hold the string. I used this set up so notchedarrows could be used between the two posts. I then tried out the bow to see if the posts would hold. I ended up filing them both down a bit and rounded the edges.

I cut a steel rod down to 41/2 in. and hammered it in the hole behind the notch for the prod.

For the stirrup I used a decorative gate hinge. It had the other end of the hinge ground off and the end shaped to size. I free handed it by it ended up 8 1/2 in long. It wasepoxied before being screwed on and the screws were predrilled. I planned on bending a steel rod to fit in the hinge for the foot hold but never got to it. If I do I'll update.Para cord was looped through for a foot hold.

Next I flattened two scrap pieces of pvc. White schedule 40 for the bolt holder and grey schedule 40 for the trigger. Both were heated in my oven and then clamped downbetween two 2x4s. The white pvc was cut in half before being flattened. I free handed the shape of bolt holder after being cut down to 8 in. The grey was cut to 13 in androunded at the corners. I shaped them after careful heating over my stovetop, again a heat gun works as well, and molded them by hand. It took a long time and a lot oftrial and error to get them the way I wanted. After the pieces were screwed on I cut a bolt down to size and rounded the edges. It's not pretty but I works well.

If you can tell from the pictures the bolt lays flush in the stock but when pulling the trigger it pushes upward, releasing the bolt. With the posts and the trigger being in linewith one another it cannot be dry fired, it pushes up on a nocked bolt not the string.


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Step 7: attaching the prodFirst I cut a price of scrap cloth four inches wide and a foot long. You may need more or less depending on how tight the fit is to the stock. I then wrapped it neatly aroundthe center of the prod using a little contact cement to hold it on.

I used para cord again to lash the prod on the bow. Use a cross pattern to hold it tight. It's not pretty but it holds.


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Step 8: final thoughtsAfter the build I would have changed the length of the prod, 36in and the rods 32in. Being so short I have heard some uncomfortable creaking when cocking. At 30in it'spulling at 80lbs give or take. Will still have plenty of power for shooting if the prod is longer.

I forgot to add that I waxed the part of the stock the string comes in contact with bees wax.

Related Instructables

How to make aCrossbow - PVCCrossbow bySpecificLove

Cast AluminumSelf CockingCrossbow Pistol(video) by Jaycub

Simple PistolCrossbowTutorial (noexpensivemachineryrequired) bycrossbowman151

Archery Factsby Blaaken

How to Make aRepeatingCrossbow byJaycub

Reverse-drawCrossbow(Photos) byTensephilly

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Comments14 comments Add Comment

fzbw9br says: Jan 26, 2015. 5:39 PM REPwith a sharp bolt/arrow, it actually takes little power to kill big game.

the bolt only needs to cut through about 3" to kill an elk. 1 to 1.5" to kill a deer. 1" penetration will kill a human.

These are NOT Toys, and can KILL if shot at a living thing.

Be very careful and have FUN!

Arghus says: Jan 25, 2015. 9:37 PM REPlooks awesome, but how many pounds can you get with it?

ianheavy says: Jan 25, 2015. 6:29 PM REPSir, that is a really lovely piece of work I assume it was well received by your sister.

Your Instructible is well written and explained. Thank-you.

It would be great if you could add a video at some time of it in use. I would look forward to that if you had time.

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shazni says: Jan 25, 2015. 6:27 PM REPThis is such amazing detailed work! Thanks for posting :-)

jamie w says: Jan 25, 2015. 5:38 PM REPwow amazing

jamie w says: Jan 25, 2015. 5:38 PM REPwow amazing

blayne.watt says: Jan 23, 2015. 11:40 AM REPSaw this same thing made on Alaska: The Last Frontier on the Christmas special. Pretty cool, nice instructable. Thanks.

otisimo1288 says: Jan 23, 2015. 7:00 PM REPThanks. I haven't seen that episode but am a big fan of the show

Holje says: Jan 23, 2015. 11:26 AM REPGreat idea and project!

Are you planing to make some arows to?

otisimo1288 says: Jan 23, 2015. 6:59 PM REPYes I plan on getting to it as soon as I can

Wazzupdoc says: Jan 21, 2015. 9:54 AM REPHow does the string get past the side posts when the trigger-post is lowered?

otisimo1288 says: Jan 21, 2015. 10:29 AM REPIt is made to shoot nocked bolts(arrows). Once a bolt is nocked it "grips" around the string. So when the trigger post is moves upward it pushes the bolt.Which pulls the string upward with it, causing the string to clear the side posts and propel the bolt forward.

I plan on a structable about making bolts as soon as I can.

otisimo1288 says: Jan 20, 2015. 8:50 PM REPThanks. Any questions feel free to ask away?

seamster says: Jan 20, 2015. 12:24 PM REPThis is a really impressive crossbow! And your documentation is excellent too.

Very inspired by this. Thank you!
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Reinforced PVC Crossbow With Laminated Stock

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