Removal and replacement of gas struts (Tailgate Shocks) on 2001 9.5 SW 1. Two tailgate shocks were ordered from eEuroparts.com (a site sponsor). Based on price differential, I choose to order the Scan Tech not the genuine SAAB shocks/struts. 2. I followed the WIS for the “Tailgate Gas Springs 5D”. The instructions were OK but certainly lacked some detail for a first timer tearing into the headliner and interior trim of his first SAAB. But then, that’s not the real WIS audience. 3. To remove the “clips in the roof” Step 2 in the WIS, simply turn them 90 degrees so they face side to side, not fore and aft. Then pry down. Installation is the reverse. Photo below is looking toward front of car. 4. Observe the headliner as you “bend down the roof” in Step 3. It will begin to wrinkle on each side about half- way along the cargo net holders. That’s OK, but do not bend it down too far or it may begin to develop a wrinkle over its entire width! I used a bungee cord (see photo) to hold it down while I worked above it.
Transcript
Removal and replacement of gas struts (Tailgate Shocks) on 2001 9.5 SW
1. Two tailgate shocks were ordered from eEuroparts.com (a site sponsor). Based on price differential, I choose to order the Scan Tech not the genuine SAAB shocks/struts.
2. I followed the WIS for the “Tailgate Gas Springs 5D”. The instructions were OK but certainly lacked some detail for a first timer tearing into the headliner and interior trim of his first SAAB. But then, that’s not the real WIS audience.
3. To remove the “clips in the roof” Step 2 in the WIS, simply turn them 90 degrees so they face side to side, not fore and aft. Then pry down. Installation is the reverse. Photo below is looking toward front of car.
4. Observe the headliner as you “bend down the roof” in Step 3. It will begin to wrinkle on each side about half-way along the cargo net holders. That’s OK, but do not bend it down too far or it may begin to develop a wrinkle over its entire width! I used a bungee cord (see photo) to hold it down while I worked above it.
5. The nuts on the sheetmetal yoke over the front gas spring mounting require a 10mm wrench. I recommend an open end. I used a socket but had to bend the headliner
a lot. By this time, insure the tailgate is firmly supported! The WIS says “Get an
assistant”.
6. In Step 5, I simply used a padded bar to lever the socket of the original shock off of the ball on both ends. Be careful not to injure the 5th door wiring harness (black woven) near the rear ball or dent the car roof from the inside.
7. Once released at both ends the gas struts are tight but can be removed by sliding them toward the front of the car.
8. I used white grease to lub inside the socket. The WIS calls for Gleitmo 805.
9. When installing the new struts, I fitted the rear most end first. To do this, I removed the small shiny wire clip which is installed on each end. A good push or use of a small lever will force the socket over the lubricated ball. Then replace the wire clip. (In photo above, seen just above the socket) While doing this you’re working blind, unable to
see either the end of the clip wire or the tiny whole in the socket into which it fits. Be patient and you’ll get it. I used only my fingers.
10. Prior to installing the forward end of the strut, make sure the opening in the socket lines up with the ball. The socket can be turned (its threaded) with pliers. Install it just like the rear socket. Install the spring clip to secure it place. Be careful to avoid creasing the headliner! Photo below is of the original SAAB strut.
11. Inspect the rear door wiring harness for chafe while you have everything open.
