Report-BSL

1

BSL SUITINGS LTD

TEXTILE INTERNSHIP REPORT

[BRIEF INTRODUCTION TO TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESSES OF BSL ]

Submitted By:

Dilip Singh

Kumar Sarvesh

Prashant Gaurav

Rajeev Sharan

Department of Fashion Technology,

NIFT, Bangalore

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTT e x t i l e i n t e r n s h i p r e p o r t – D I L I P S I N G H , K U M A R S A R V E S H ,

P R A S H A N T G A U R A V , R A J E E V S H A R A N - D F T - 0 5 / N I F T B A N G A L O R E

Duration of Internship:

28th December 2010-8th January 2011

2

Any work can only be satisfactorily completed with the help of some individuals. Our internship at BSL, Mandapam, Bhilwara is not an exception to this rule.

We are extremely grateful to Mr. A.K.Mehta, Vice-President, BSL for giving us such a golden opportunity to carry out our study in such a prestigious company.

We would also like to extend our heartfelt gratitude to Mr. A.K. Jain ( head of spinning Department ) , Mr. D.B. Muley ( head of Weaving Department) , Mr. A. Zaroo ( head of Processing Department) , Mr. S.L. Somani ( head of Top Dyeing Department ) , Mr. S.G. Moghe (head of Design and Development Department ) , Mr. G. C. Jain (head of Marketing Department), Mr. Bhaskar Verma ( head of SQC ), Mr. C.S Sharma ( head of R& D ), Mr. Maheshwrai ( General Manager , Exports ), Mr. Kudeep ( Export officer) for guiding us during our project at their department and giving their valuable inputs.

We are also thankful to Mr. K.M.Kogata, Personal Manager, P&A, BSL for mentoring us during our stay here.

Last, but not the least, we would like to thank the supervisors and operators who helped us to understand the working of various machinery throughout our study.

Thank You.

Table Of Contents

Sr. No. Content Page No.

1. Introduction

Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

3

2. Objectives Of the Study

3. Company Profile

4. Spinning Division

5. Statistical Quality Control Department

6. Weaving Division

7. Processing Division

8. Research & Development Department

9. Design Development & Marketing Department

10. Conclusion

11. Bibliography

Introduction

Training in industry infuses among students a sense of critical analysis of the whole production system and different situations arising in an organisation. Trainings are bold attempts to bridge the gap between the world of work and the knowledge at the institutions. It enables us to see our theoretical knowledge in operation. It helps us make better professionals and learn the practical knowledge of the production system. Our training at BSL, Mandapam was no different it helped us gain the practical knowledge of the textile manufacturing. The Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

4

process of production extending for spinning of fibres, their conversion to fabric was more fascinating than it looked in the books.

Textile manufacturing is one of largest business operations taking place in India. It gives employment to a very large population of the country nest only to agriculture. For a student of garment manufacturing technology knowledge of textile is very relevant because the garment manufacturing is based completely dependent on the textiles. The thrust area of the internship was to learn the complete production process of textile manufacturing. Our ten days long internship gave us the thorough knowledge of the textile manufacturing. It gave us the knowledge about the various processes taking place in spinning of the fibre. It gave us the knowledge about the processes involving conversion of the fibre to the fabric through the weaving process. It also gave us the information regarding the various processing activities taking place in the finishing and dyeing of the fabric. This internship, we hope will help in developing us as better garment manufacturing professional as the knowledge of textile is pivotal in making good garment manufacturing professional. This internship has given us the required confidence to face the various situations arising in a work place.

This report is a written account of what we have observed and learnt during our ten day long internship at BSL, Mandapam.


5

Organisational chart for spinning section(polyester viscose)


SPINNING DIVISION

6

Process flow chart for polyester viscose spinning unit


7

RAW MATERIAL:

Common raw materials used in synthetic spinning are polyester and viscose. They are received in the form of bale in grey condition.


8

The polyester fibre is supplied by:

1. Reliance industries RECRON fibre – Bale of 375 - 400 kg.

2. Indorama polyester industries, Thailand – Bale of 350 kg

3. JCT – Bale of 350 kg

4. Future polyester fibre industries, manali – Bale of 300 kg

The viscose fibre is supplied by:

1. GRASIM industries Birla cellulose, Nagada – Bale of 200 – 250 kg

There are three godowns for raw material storage in weaving section:

1. Polyester godowns – to store grey polyester fibre

2. Viscose godowns – to store viscose fibre

3. Dyed polyester godowns – to store dyed polyester fibre.

BLENDING

Blending is process of combining two or more kinds of fibre. Fibres in required ratio are taken, opened and blended in blenders. During blending anti static sprays are given to the fibres. The mixing is blended once or twice to ensure proper blending to the fibres. Blending is done to get desired properties in the finished products. It improves the fabric performance and helps in maintaining the economy of the product

Different blend composition 65/35, 80/20, 60/40 of polyester viscose blends yarn.

Antistatic Finish:

During blending the fibre is given Antistatic finish to prevent static charge generation as well as fly generation in the case of manmade fibre.

Chemicals used:

• LV40 – prevents static charge generation

• 2152P – prevents fly generation


9

Machinery used:

TRUTZSCHLER (Trumac India)

Components of the TRUTZSCHLER blending machine:

• Feed lattice

• Inclined lattice

• Delivery roller

• Evener roller

• Creeper roller

• Stripper roller

4 motors are used in the machine:

1st – Creeper roller

2nd – Feed lattice and inclined lattice

3rd – Evener roller and stripper roller

4th – Delivery roller

Flow of material in the blender:

BLOW ROOM:

The mixing is further opened so that the wastes like hard chips are removed from the mixing, the tuft size is reduced and better blending of fibre is achieved. This mixture is converted into laps to be feed in the carding machine.

Following process takes place in the blow room line:

1. Opening – The material enters spinning mills in compressed form to enable optimum transport and storage. In blow room the bigger tufts of fibre are made into smaller with minimum possible change to the fibre.

2. Cleaning – To remove foreign seed particles leave from fibers. During opening and cleaning there is always loss of good fibers. So the blow room line is selected such


10

that the optimum opening and cleaning is obtained with minimum loss of good fibers. The cleaning efficiency of cotton in blow room section is approximately 75– 80%.

3. Dust removal – To remove finer impurities like dust particles and very short fibres by suction units e.g. cages. As the opening of the material increases the dust removal capacity also increases.

4. Lap formation – Blow room line also facilitates the preparation of laps which are further fed into the carding machine.

Humidity in the blow room – R.H. – 65% to 75%

Variation:

Standard intra lap variation = 1.0%.

If the variation is more than 1.0% the lap shall be rejected.

Lap parameters:

Count Weight Length 8s - 10s 20.0 kg 36 yards 10s – 12s 16.5 kg 30 yards 15s – 20s 20.5 kg 38 yards 24s 20.0 kg 40 yards

Blow room line:

There are two types of blow room line

1. TRUSTZSCHLER ( Trumac engineering co. Pvt limited, Ahemadabad, India)

2. ZFA017 ( Zhengzhou Textile machinery co. Limited, China)

Components of TRUSTZSCHLER blow room line:

• Feed lattice

• Creeper lattice

• Incline lattice

• Evener roll

• Cleaner roll

• Steeper roll

• Krishner beater

• Cage


11

• Shell lattice

• Piano roller

• Cleaner roll

• Steeper roll

Features of TRUSTZSCHLER blow room line:

• Number of beating roller – 2 Krishner beater

• Speed of 1st krishner beater – 825 rpm

• Speed of 2nd krishner beater – 800 rpm

• Shell roll speed – 11.5 rpm

• Diameter of Shell roll – 10.5 inch

• Calendar roll pressure – 4.5 kg per sq. Cm

• Lap rod weight – 1.4 kg

Flow of material in blow room line:

Clearance setting:

• Between 1st beater and feed roll – 10/32 inch

• Between 2nd beater and feed roll – 10/32 inch

• Between inclined lattice and evener roll – 10 mm

• Between feed roll and pedal roll – 0.125 mm

Production capacity (at 85% efficiency)

• Weight of lap produced – 1700 kg/8hr/line

• Length of lap produced – 4000 yards/8hr/line

Total production capacity of the unit – 10 ton

Time taken to produce one lap – approx 4 – 6 min.


12

No. Of laps produced per hour – approx 12

CARDING

In carding the fibres are individualised, hard chips, soft fibres and entanglements are removed. Lap produced in blow room are fed in the carding machine. The product of carding operation is card slivers.

Objectives:

• Individualisation and partial parallelisation of fibres

• Fibre to fibre separation

• To affect thorough mixing of the Fibre

• Removal of remaining trash of B/R process

• Conversion of Lap or opened fibre into sliver

Humidity: R.H. – 60% to 65%

The machinery used for carding:

Maker Model Feed mechanism LMW LC 1/3 Lap feed LR LC 1/2 Lap feed

Various components of carding machine:

• Licker in

• Cylinder

• Doffer

• Feed roll

• Calendar roll

• Lap roll

• Redirecting roll

• Group roll

Technical parameter of LC 1/3


13

• Diameter of lap roll – 162 mm

• Diameter of feed roll – 80 mm

• Diameter of licker in – 253 mm

• Diameter of cylinder – 1290 mm

• Diameter of doffer – 680 mm

• Diameter of calendar roll – 80 mm

Speed of different moving parts

• Lap roller – 1.725

• Feed roller – 2.875

• Licker in cylinder – 840

• Main cylinder – 360

• Doffer – 30

Draft constant for LC 1/3 = 2.23

Draft for the machine = 102 (approx)

Clearance setting for various parts:

• Licker in to feed plate – 18 TH

• Licker in to cylinder – 7 TH

• Cylinder to doffer – 4 TH

• Doffer to crush roll – 6 TH

• Licker in to combing segment – 16 TH

Production in kg/hr at 85% efficiency = 19.4 kg/hour

Wire point specification:

Maker: Lakshmi carding company

Parts Wire point specification Cylinder R 2520* 0.70 Licker in D 5505* 1.2


14

Doffer N 4030* 0.85R Flat PD 32/1

Stop motion for LC1/3

1. Limit switch for lap tool – it stops the card in case of shortage of lap.

2. Limit switch over feed roll – it stops the card if the feeding of double lap takes place.

3. Limit switch at front panel – it stops the cylinder if the front panel is opened.

4. Limit switch over crush tool – it senses the lapping of the crush tool.

5. Full can change motion – when the can is full of slivers the machine stops and the can is changed either by tenter or automatically.

DRAW FRAMES

The card sliver is subjected to doubling and drafting process to parallelise the fibres, remove micro dust and make uniform slivers. Drawing is a two step process: 1. Breaker draw frame 2. Finisher draw frame.

Objectives:

• To parallelize the fibers of card sliver and align them to the axes of the sliver through drafting process. So that in final stage of spinning they can contribute maximum towards yarn strength.

• To improve the regularity in sliver weight per unit length though doubling of sliver.

• To mix different slivers to give a homogenous blended sliver.

• To straighten out the fiber and improve the fiber extent.

• To improve uniformity and evenness so that the final sliver become more regular resulting Uniform yarn.

1. Breaker Draw Frame – During this process 8 slivers produced by carding machine are parallelized to produce one sliver.

The machinery in use for breaker drawing frame:


15

• LDO/25 ( maker – Lakshmi industries)

• LDO/6 ( maker – lakshmi industries )

Features of LDO/25

• Maximum speed – 400 metre per minute

• No. Of card sliver – 8

• No. Of heads – 2

• Drafting system – 3 over 5

• Diameter of top roll – 40 mm

• Pressure of top roll – 68 – 72 kg

• Capacity of the can – 3000 m

Production capacity for 30s count sliver ( at 85% efficiency ) – 765 kg sliver/shift.

Time taken to fill one can of 3000 m – 10 minutes.

Stop motion in LDO/25 Breaker drawing frame:

1. Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame the drawing frame will automatically stop.

2. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame will automatically stop.

3. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will automatically stop.

4. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the machine will stop.

Features of LDO/6


• Can size – 24 * 42 inch

• No. Of heads – 2

• No. Of card slivers per head – 8

• Maximum speed – 600 metre per minutes

Production capacity for 30s count ( at 85% efficiency ) – 1100 kg/shift/drawing frame


16

Stop motion for LDO/6:

1. Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame the drawing frame will automatically stop.

2. Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame will automatically stop.

3. If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will automatically stop.

4. Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the machine will stop.

The stop motion LDO/6 is similar to the LDO/25 the only difference being the LDO/6 starts automatically once the stoppage causing problem is sorted out.

2. Finisher draw frame

It is done to give further strength and stability to the sliver. The drawn sliver from breaker draw frame is again drawn. In this process the sliver drawn in the breaker draw frame further used.

Machinery used:

LRSB – 851 (RIETER)

Features of LRSB – 851 (RIETER)


• Total draft – 8

• Number of head – 1

• Number of card sliver feed – 8

• Can size – 20*40 inch

• Number of motors – 4

• Diameter of top roll – 38mm

• Diameter of calendar roll – 55 mm

Function of motors:

1st motor – main motor for driving machine pulley.

2nd motor – for fan.


17

3rd motor – for driving servo motor for auto leveller.

4th motor – for automatic can changing.

Production capacity of the finisher drawing frame – 850 kg/shift/drawing frames

Stop motion for LRSB – 851:

• Electrical creel stop motion: if broken sliver passes through the pair of drawing frame the drawing frame will automatically stop.

• Full can stop motion: if pre-set length of sliver is delivered in the can drawing frame will automatically stop.

• If the door of machine is opened while the machine is running the machine will automatically stop.

• Calendar roll lapping stop motion: in case of sliver lapping over the calendar roll the machine will stop.

• Can change stop motion: After the can is filled and another vacant can is not available the machine will stop for itself unless the empty can is made available.

SPEED FRAME

The drawn sliver is drafted, slightly twisted and wound on speed frame bobbin, this process is known as roving.

Objectives:

1. To impart twist.

2. Conversion of sliver into roving.

Machine specification:


18

There are two types of machine.

Type 1.

Make LMW Model LF 1400A Year 1994 No. Of spindles 108 No. Of machine 1

Type 2.

Make LMW Model LFS 1660 Year 2004/2005 No. Of spindles 120 No. Of machine 3

Production-

Under favourable marginal conditions Cotton- upto 13m.p.m. Man made – upto 40m/min Production capacity – 550 kg/shift/frame


19

RING FRAME

Spinning of roving bobbin into yarn of required count and twist is done here.

Objective:

1.To impart twist

2.Conversion of roving into single yarn

Technical specifications of ring frame:

Make LMWModel LR6/SDrafting system 3 over 3Top roll diameter 32.5 mmBottom roll diameter 30 mmpressure 20 kgMotor pulley diameter 152 – 187 mmTotal spindle 480

Speeds, drafts and constants:

• Front roller speed – 245 rpm

• Spindle speed – 15000 rpm

Total production – 100 kg/shift/machine

AUTOCONER

Objective:

To remove imperfection of spun yarn and make big package in the form of cone.

Technical details

Make Savio Orion


20

Model Orion Manufacturer Savio Machine Tessili SPA, ItalyYear 2005No. Of cones 60

Technical Specifications:

•Drum speed -1300 rpm

•Cone weight (Full) - 2 to 3 Kgs.

•Cone weight (Empty) - 30 to 35 gms.

•Magazine Creel capacity - 6 Ring tubes

•Drum diameter – 3.14 inches

Salient Feature:

1. Pneumatic disc type tensioner.

2. Splicer is used.

3. Capacitance type electronic yarn clearer (Uster Quantum-2)

4. Fully automatic

Countwise Winding Speed:

Type Count Winding speed Coarse 15-20s 1200 m/min.Medium 20-40s 1400 m/min.Fine 40s and above 1600 m/min.

Machine sequence:

Production capacity for autoconer – 800 to 1200 kg/shift

Special features of Autoconer:


21

• Autoconer is fed by magazine containing 6 reserve ring bobbins and one running ring bobbin.

• Automatic cutting and splicing of thick and thin places and restarting of the winding

• Its efficiency is upto 95%.

CHEESE WINDING:

Objective:

To wind two or more threads from cone to cheese without inserting any twist.

Machine information:

PS Metler

Make PS MetlerModel F.M.K.SManufacturer Peas engineering pvt. Limited No. Of machine 2

Machine sequence

Salient Feature:

1. Fix blade mechanical type slub catcher.

2. Dead weight type disc Tensioner.

3. Electrical stop motion

DOUBLING:

In doubling twist is imparted to yarn wound on cheese. There are two processes of doubling.Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

22

1. T.F.O – In this process twisting and winding on cones is done simultaneously to provide knot free yarns.

Objective:

To impart two twist in one rotation of the spindle.

Machine specification:

1.

Make Veejay lakshmiModel VJ – 150 – HS Year 2004 No. Of machines 13No. Of cones 144

2.

Make Prerna Model PRN – 225 Manufacture Prerna textile industriesYear 1998No. Of machines 3No. Of cones 144

Production capacity – 161.20 kg/shift

Technical specification:

• Spindle RPM – 9000 to 10000

• Traverse length – 155 mm

TPI according to count

Count TPI 18s 1230s 1740s 2050s 20.5


23

Machine sequence:

2. Ring doubling – Here only twist is provided to the parallel wound yarns. These yarns are the wound in cones at cone winding. At cone winding the yarn is cleared of doubling defects.

CONDITIONING

Before packing the yarns produced are subjected to a treatment in the conditioning room to increase the moisture content of the cone according to the requirement. It increases the weight of the cone marginally.

PACKING

In packing department the cones produced by Autoconer / T.F.O are checked & thenpacked in bags. There are 5 checkers and a large number of packers for this purpose. The defects, which are checked during packing, are:-

1. Mixing of cones

2. 3-Ply

3. High twist / Low twist

4. Contamination

5. Snarling

6.Winding defect (Ribbon formation)

The standard weight of cone is 2 kgs. Tolerance is± 50 gms. In a bag 32 cones are packed that is the weight of packed bag is approximately 64 kgs. 8-9 tons cone are packed per day.This is called loose packing.


24


25


STATISTICAL QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

26

The work of statistical quality control department is to control the quality of product being manufactured through intensive testing during intermediate process and of final product to give quality assurance to buyers and maintain company standards.

The daily jobs performed by this department are checking naps, counts, hanks, thick and thin place in slivers, lea strength etc.

Various equipments used and their description:

1. Evenness tester :

Manufacturer: Star Twister

No. Of machines: 2

It gives information about the evenness of the yarn. It works on the principle of the capacitance. The material is passed between the plates of capacitor, due to dielectric components of the material, a change in the capacitance of the plates is observed. The change in capacitance is directly proportional to mass or thickness of the material. A change is displayed on the display unit.

2. Hairiness tester :

It gives detail about the fibres called hair based on the photoelectric principle. The tester gives no. Of hairs per unit length and classifies them according to the length.

3. Lea strength tester:

Manufacturer: Kamal metal industries

No. Of machines: 1

It provides information about average yarn strength. The strength can be read from the axial scale.

4. Warp blocks

It prepares hank for testing.

5. Yarn appearance board:

This is a white colour board on which the yarn is wound with the help of trasverse as in the case of warp reel. It may have more than one yarn each having a few layers. The board is then observed manually and unevenness in the yarn is observed through eye.

These are then ranked by comparing with standard boards.


27

6. Physical balance:

No. Of machines: 2

It is used for weight, lea’s etc. The data is used for count calculation.

7. Classifault – 6 drums

Manufacturer: KIESOKT

No. Of machines – 1

It is attached with 6 drum miniature cheese winding machine. They have 6 sensor heads with cutters. It classifies the fault according to their diameter and length. The fault classification has fixed diameter, in some faults with adjustable length limits and in other the parameters are adjustable.

8. Twist tester

Manufacturer: 1. Star STT

2. KAYCEE industries limited

To test yarn is gripped in two jaws, one of which is fixed and the other can rotate. The rotating jaw is connected to a motor and control unit. We feed the maximum amount of turns required to untwist the yarn in the control unit along with the direction of the twist before starting the machine.

9. Stelometer

No. Of machine: 1

It is used to check the strength of the blending/ mixing to check for the blend homogeneity of the mixture.

10. Electronic balance

No. Of machine: 2

The balance has been attached to a computer and gives the count/hank of the material directly.

11. Torsion balance

No. Of machine: 1

It is used for the denier estimation of polyester and viscose by cotton weight. The result is displayed in g/tex.

12. Mangnoscope


28

No. Of machine: 1

It is used to check the number of fibre.

13. Electronic tensile tester

No. Of machine: 1

It is used to check the yarn elongation strength of a single yarn.

14. Rapid drying unit

No. Of machine: 1

It is used to check the moisture content in fibre.

15. Oil extracting machine

No. Of machine: 1

It is used to check for the presence of oil in the material.

16. Top tester

No. Of machine:1

It is used to check for the number of NEP per gram of the sliver.


29

ORGANISATIONAL CHART FOR WEAVING SECTION (POLYESTER VISCOSE)


WEAVING

30

RAW MATERIAL SECTION

Raw material is stored at the raw material gowdon. The store in charge is responsible for keeping a track of all the yarns coming to the weaving section. Most yarn required for weaving is produced at spinning section of the BSL limited. Other suppliers for the raw materials are:

• Reliance industries limited

• Rajasthan spinning and weaving mill

• Banswara synthex

• Sangam India

WARPING SECTION

Objectives of warping:

1. To prepare continuous warp sheet beam according to given warp pattern, of required length, width & no. of ends.

2. All of ends must be under uniform tension.

Process flow in warping section:


31

Temperature & R.H. of section:

• Temperature - 270 to 320 C

•Relative humidity - 60% to 65%

Machinery used (warping drum & beam):

There are two models of machinery for the warping drum & beam.

• MODEL A:

Manufacturer PRASHANT GAMATEXModel Lasertronic 1080Creel capacity 384No. Of machine 02

Salient features:

• Solid steel drum (3.14 meters circumference).

• Separate Warping & Beaming Structure.

• Automatic section tension control having precise close loop yarn tension monitoring by twin PLC.

• Ball screws for all servo systems.

• Pitch measuring through Laser Sensor. (Contactless)

• Linear guide on under carriage.

• Continuous Beam Oscillation. (adjustable)

• Reverse Drum Rotation.

• Automatic Leasing Function.

• User-friendly Handy Operating Panel for Beaming.

• Constant beaming tension

• Large colour touch screen for desired process data.

• Constant warping and beaming speed.

• Lost end memory & auto during beaming.


32

• Printer Interface.


1. Working width – 1800 to 4200 mm

2. Warping speed – 0 to 800 metre/min

3. beaming speed – 0 to 100 metre/min (can be increased if required)

4. beaming tension – 0 to 450 kg (can be increased if required)

5. Maximum beam diameter – 800 mm

• MODEL B:

Manufacturer PRASHANT GAMATEXModel A - 217 Creel capacity 384 No. Of machines 05

Technical Specifications.

1. Manufacturer: Prashant Gamatex Pvt. Ltd., Ahmedabad.

2. Model: A – 217

3. Creel: 2(side) x 8(vertical) x 24(horizontal) = 384

4. Warping Speed: 0 - 650 meter /min (Maximum)

5. Beaming Speed: 0 -100 meter / min

6. Beaming Diameter: 800 mm – 1000 mm

Salient Features:

• Reserve cone holders for next programme

• Fixed cone height

• Fully machined & Dynamically Balanced Metallic Drum

• Hydraulic Disc Brakes

• Auto Section Advancing

• Accurate Warp density adjustment & Alignment

• Frequency variable A/C Drive

• Micro-Processor based controls


33

• Electronic length measurement

• Four line display showing continuous monitoring of warp length speed, section width plus traverse & No. of section

• Constant warping speed

• Foot operated crawl speed

Warping creel:

Machinery used – centrally controlled tensioner type (PRASHANT GAMATEX)

Salient Features

• Quick and simple threading of yarn.

• Continuously rotating tensioners through motor.

• Positive spring loaded centrally controlled tensioners.

• Automatic section tension control.

• Optical sensing stop motion.

• Integrated AIR BLOW-OFF cleaning

Technical specifications:

1. Creel capacity: 384

Production information:

Time taken to prepare 1 drum – 2 to 2.5 hours

Time taken to transfer the warp yarns from drum to beam – 40 mins-1 hours

Sample warper

• Used mainly for silk

• Auto safety stop

• Software operated

• Tensioning device to avoid loose yarns



34

Model SW- 207 Drum circumference 7 metre Warping yarn speed Upto 1000 metresWarping length 14 – 280 metresBeam flange diameter 1000mm

Few warping defects and their remedies:

Defect 1: High variation in tension within and between ends (slack ends).

Remedies: 1. make sure that the end has not come out of the tensioning device.

2. Winding height should be changed.

Defect 2: The surface of yarns, building on the beam, is not even and free, has ridges from one selvedge to the other.

Remedies: 1. Comb width should match with the beam width.

2. Comb dents should be uniformly spaced.

DRAWING-IN SECTION:

Once the beam is prepared in the warping section, it comes to the drawing in section. The beam is kept on the beam stand and a person having complete details of the design, draft and peg plan does the drawing in. Here one end of the warp yarn is passed through the heald frame, drop pins and reeds.

Heald frame specifications:

Type C – type and J –types simplex Length 331 mm, flat steelEye let size 5.5 * 1.2 mmStrip size 5.5 *0.30 mmManufacturer Unique impex, Mumbai

Drop pin specification:

Model Open, electrical Size 165*11*0.4 mm


35

Manufacturer Unique impex, mumbai

WEAVING SECTION

Weaving is a textile craft in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced to form a fabric or cloth. The threads which run lengthways are called the warp and the threads which run across from side to side are the weft or filling.

Machineries used:

Manufacturer Model Reed space No. Of machines

Picanol Optimax Single width 85”

12

Sulzer – Ruti P 7100 Single width85”

76

Sulzer – Ruti P 7100 Double width153”

16

Sulzer – Ruti G 6200 Single width 85”

36

Total no. Of machine 140

Speed and efficiency:

• Single width projectile loom: 350 – 400 RPM

• Single width rapier loom: 300 – 350 RPM

• Double width rapier loom: 250 – 270 RPM

• Picanol: 375 – 450 RPM

• Production capacity: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine

• Production capacitty: 105 – 110 metre per shift per machine

• Production capacity of unit: 30000 meter per day at an efficiency of 80%

Accumulators:

Following models of accumulators are used:

• Technomatex – Futura (Switzerland)

• IWF – Sweden

• ROJ – Electrotex AT – 1200

• VIRIEL – Technomatex

Accumulator Setting:Electronic head of Accumulator has one ON/OFF switch & 4 settings are there,Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

36

1. Setting of winding Speed by a set screw.2. Intensity of photocell can be changed according to type of weft yarn Texture or spun.3. Amount of yarn wound on winding head by altering the position of photocell by the help of rotating screw arranged with Rack-Pinion system.4. NT / RT setting

Various mechanisms:

PROJECTILE LOOM

Warp insertion mechanism:

• The key to the machine is the gripper projectile. In the picking position it takes over the thread drawn from the supply package. After picking, it carries the thread into the shed and is braked upon entering the receiving unit.

• The thread is now taken over by the projectile feeder, held by the selvedge grippers, cut by the scissors, released from the projectile and beaten up to the cloth.

• The tucking needles then tuck in the thread ends, forming firm tucked-in selvedge.

• Finally, the projectiles is ejected from the receiving unit and taken back to the picking position by conveyer.

• The projectiles are accelerated by a torsion bar. This is tensioned, storing the energy needed for a flight through the shed. Following the release of a lock, it accelerates the projectile smoothly and resumes its initial position at once.

• The flight velocity of the projectile is determined by the torsion angle of the bar and can therefore be matched.


37

Beat Up mechanism:

• A double cam assembly is mounted on the main shaft.• Both cams are working counter to each other.• A rocker is resting on cam with anti friction bowl. This is fasten to sley sword. Sley

sword keeps the reed support for final beat-up.• The cams are so designed that they provide sufficient dwell (220-250) for the traverse

of projectile.

Take Up mechanism:

• Take - up drive of Sulzer draw and winds the cloth positively. Rate of take up can be adjusted by means or change wheel. A combination of four wheels A,B,C,D is fitted with a total of 12 change wheels it is possible to wheel weft density of 36 to 910 threads/ 10cm and forward up to1810picks/ 10cm by changing the worm gear.


38

Let Off mechanism:

• The purpose of the let- off drive is to pay out the warp sheet through turning the warp sheet by warp beam and at the same time keeping the tension on warp constant. The whip roller plays as the control element. It adjusts its height to the tension of the warp and controls the let-off motion of let-off drive coupling by means of a bar. As the winding diameter of the warp beam decreases, the whip roller moves gradually downwards. As a result of this, the let-off increases and is matched automatically to the winding diameter of the drum take-up.

Pick Finding mechanism:

• When a pick is broken to find its position clutch is brought to pick finding position (clutch is disengaged) and hand wheel is pull out and two turns are given to it. Then it is brought to pick holding position and turn the hand wheel till the clutch returns to earlier position. Thus dobby is turned on a pick back.

RAPIER LOOMS


39

Weft insertion mechanism:

• The key component of the machine is the set of rapier. There are two set of rapiers in the machine having positive motion. The rapier takes the weft yarn from the supply package. After picking it carries the yarn forward on a guide at the centre of the machine another rapier receives the yarn, can carry it. In this way, the intervals for rapier insertion and for rapier withdrawal are both used for weft insertion. Invariably, on full width looms, only a single pick of yarn from a given supply package is inserted, but it may be inserted as a loop up to the time of transfer, and the transferred loop straightened out during rapier withdrawal from the shed (the loop-transfer or Gabbler system). Yarn withdrawal from the weft package is thus completed at the time of transfer.

• It is the cut end of the weft which is transferred (end or tip transfer). The yarn clamps in the rapier heads is positively actuated at the transfer (in addition to any positive actuation at weft pick-up and release).

.

End Catching & Cutting mechanism:

• The end catcher and cutter are attached and mounted on the sley. The end catcher exchanges the weft yarn with the rapiers at the end of the withdrawal. The cutter comes into contact of the weft during beat up, due to the sley and reed motion, and cuts the weft.


40

Technical specifications of P 7100 weaving machines:

• The machine handles practically all types of yarns: spun yarn, filament yarn, fancy yarn etc.

• In the weft the machine processes staple fiber yarns from Nm 0.5-160 and continuous filament yarns from 5000-10.8 denier.

• Weft density is between 0.83-181.5 picks/cm. Maximum weft insertion rate 1200 meter / min. and speed upto 400 rpm.

• Can work for upto four different weft colours.

• Nominal width 190-540 cm.

• Machine design is extremely compact.

Technical specification of G 6200 weaving machines:

• Nominal width of the machine is 220 cms.

• Can work for upto four different weft colours.

• Stabuli jacquard for construction of selvadge.

• Maximum weft insertion rate 900 – 1100 metre per minute.

• Maximum working speed is 400 rpm.

Light signals in use:

• Blue light blinking: warp thread breakage.

• Yellow light blinking: weft threads breakage.Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

41

• Yellow and red light blinking: shut down via emergency switch.

• Red light: mechanical fault.

• Red light blinking when machine is working: electronic projectile detector or weft detector switched off.

Sensors and stop motion:

• Projectile sensor: It is a metallic sensor situated at the receiving side and it senses that projectile is reaching at correct angle or not.

• Let – off sensor: P7100 provides electronic let off. If tension in warp sheet decreases the sensor senses it by suitable arrangement and motor regulates warp sheet accordingly

• Weft sensor: To sense the presence and absence of weft supply at receiving side.

• Angle sensor: To stop the loom at correct angle at particular degree• Warp stop motion: Electrical warp stop motion work together with drop pin

attachments

INSPECTION

Grey checking section:

After weaving the fabric is brought to inspection section for grey checking. Here the fabric is checked for any weaving related defect and the fabric are marked on the basis of number of the defects the woven fabric contains.Six automated fabric checking machines are used to check the fabric. Chalk is used to mark the defects. Each machine can check 3000 to 4000 metres of fabric every day.

Grading of fabric on the basis of defect they contain are as follows:

• 0 -5 defects – A grade• 6-12 defects – B grade• 13 – 23 defects – C grade• 24 and above defects – D grade

Fabrics are checked for following defects during grey check:

• Starting mark: An isolated narrow bar running parallel with the picks, starting abruptly & gradually shading away to normal cloth. This is due to abrupt change in the pick spacing followed by gradual coming back to normal pick spacing. Causes of the defect.

1. Restarting weaving machine after pick finding.


42

2. Reed (loom) stops ahead from the place where it should stop (generally loom stops at 400),so that sufficient moment is not generated during the next pick beating and results in starting mark.

• Weft Bar: A bar due to difference in material, count, twist, lusture or shade of the adjacent groups of weft yarns.

• Reed Marks: Irregular spacing between the groups of warp yarns across the width of the fabric. The defect may be caused by a damaged or defected reed, i.e. dent opened or gap is more than normal between two dents.

• Missing ends / Ends out / Chira: This most commonly characterized by a gap of one or more warp end in the fabric.The main causes are:-1. The weaver is careless, not mends broken ends immediately.2. Missing ends in the beams.3. Any end not passed from the heald & reed i.e. not drawn & remain missed.

• Patti: Take up roller jammed or move slowly in between the regular process due to some mechanical fault than a thick place or closer pick spacing results known as Patti or thick bar.

• Thin: Due to some mechanical fault take up roller moves little bit faster, gives a fault known as thin bar.

• Double pick: In plane weave if after loom stops due to pick breaking, loom is not turned back to its initial position than two pick are comes in the same shed, resulting the defect named double pick.

• Design Cut: If the above defect occurs in the dobby design, design gets disturbed & defect is known as design cut.

• Temple mark: Holes or surface disturbances along the selvedge of a fabric due to bad or improperly adjusted temples.

• Slub: Fly accumulated at drop pin or heald wire goes along with the warp in the fabric create slub in the fabric, gives defect in finishing if not removed.

• Pattern Break: Shed not opened properly due to some mechanical fault, gives pattern break.

• Broken pattern: This defect may be due to wrong drawing of threads, inserting a pick in the wrong shed, incorrect lifting of warp threads.


43

• Cracks: A narrow streak parallel to the weft due to the pronounced opening between two adjacent yarns. Any loom condition that permits erratic operation of the sley or yarn of its parts will create cracks in the fabric.A loosed-reed, that is, one that has excess freedom in the sley, will also caused this defect. A take-up motion which is sticking may produce cracks in the fabric.

• Floats stitches: A place in the fabric where warp & weft yarns escape the required interlacement. This defect is caused by Entanglement of warp threads due to delay inrepairing a broken end, knots with long tail ends, breakage of wire healds on running loom, unsatisfactory working of warp stop motion. With synthetic yarns, due to static electricity generation, there is a tendency for the adjacent ends to roll during weaving, this results floats or stitches less opening of shed.

• Stains: Stains on the fabric are measure serious problems in textile mills. Majority of the stains occur at loom shed only. There are various kinds of stains.E.g. oil, grease, rust, dirt, soil, carbon particles in air, sweat, crayon, box mark etc.

Most of the stains can be traced back to poor material handling, lack of care on the part of workers and poor oiling and cleaning practices. Certain stains can be removed by solvent but it involves additional cost.

• Wrong warp pattern: Wrong order of drawing the ends through the reed or wrong order of drawing the ends through the healds.

Few other weaving related defects are:1. Loose picks2. Loose ends3. Selvadge damages4. Yarn damages5. Double twek.6. Lashing

MENDING

Totally fault free fabric cannot be manufactured on the loom. They are some small or extra faults that occur in fabric during manufacturing.But some faults along these could be mendable .They can be eliminated easily.

VIEW OF WEAVING MACHINE:

• Total number of mending table – 150• Total number of workers – 160

The particular fabric incoming from weaving department is firstly stored in grey mending store. Each fabric piece carries with there ‘PIECE TICKET’ which is having various


44

particulars about fabric. According to date of delivery, fabric pieces are arranged in sequence systematic manner. Earlier fabric first took for mending. The fabric piece isGiven to mender for mending with its piece ticket. These are the following faults that will mend by the mending department:Broken end/ pick, missing end / pick, reed mark, floating ends, pattern mistake, contamination, naps, slubs, knots, oily yarn etc.

After mending the fabric is rechecked again. The defect free fabrics are sent to the rolling department to create rolls of the fabric. After rolls have been created the fabrics are sent to the dispatch department, the fabrics from dispatch department are sent to BPL for further processing of the fabric.


PROCESSING

45

TEXTILE PROCESSING

Textile processing is one of the important industries related with textile manufacturing operations. This industry has a long history that begins with "Indigo dyeing" a natural colour, derived from a plant.

Once the process of colouring textiles was considered as an art. According to ones creativity and imagination on those days numerous techniques were evolved in colouring different materials such as cotton, bamboo, jute, earthen-ware and even mortar walls. Slowly this technique was evolved in to a science and so many artificial colouring matters called 'dyestuffs' had started coming in to existence.

This evolution of colouring matters in to synthetic dyestuff and the application techniques on various textile materials are all put together is called 'Textile Processing,

Textile processing is a general term that covers right from singeing (protruding fibre removal) to finishing and printing of fabric.

Organisational structure of BSL (Processing Divison)


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_printing

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Finishing_(textiles)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_manufacturing

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Textile_manufacturing

46

BSL LTD (PROCESSING DIVISION)

It is the integrated unit/department of the LNJ Bhilwara Group for the post weaving processing.

The department is divided into

• Tops & Fibre dyeing Department,

• Fabric dyeing & Processing Department, &

• Silk dyeing.

FABRIC DYEING DEPARTMENT

This is the department for dyeing & finishing processes of the fabric supplied from weaving department.

Raw material godown:


47

Its main objective is to store and warehousing of the fabric lot for dyeing and finishing processes. Fabric lot is supplied along with the lot memo & quality instructions.

Types of fabric lot:

Here fabric is stitched together to get the appropriate length of the fabric and passed for the next processes.

POLYESTER VISCOSE FIBRE DYED FABRIC

Scouring

Scouring is the process of removal of natural oil substances like waxes, fats and pectin's as well as added impurities like lubricating oil, dust, dirt and residual starch in the cotton materials .

Machineries in uses:

• Double beam jigger machine

Model: Pacific Jigger machine

Manufacturer: Harish industries limited


1. Operating temperature – 50 6 C to 100 � C ( depends on the material being used )

2. 1000 – 1200 meters of fabric can be loaded at once.

3. Time required – 5 to 6 hours

4. Steam pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber.

5. Double beam jiggers have two beams.

No. of machines – 2

• Jigger

Manufacture: Bennigner – Manekar


1. Operating temperature – 50 6 C to 100 � C ( depends on the material being used )


48

2. 400 – 500 meters of fabric can be loaded at once.

3. Time required – 4 to 5 hours

4. Double beam jiggers have only one beam.

5. Stem pipes are located at both top and bottom of the chamber.

No. of machines – 16

• Jumbo Jigger

Manufacturer: Bennigner – Manekar


1. They are the high capacity jigger machine and works on the same principle.

2. Operating temperature – 50 � C to 100 � C ( depends on the material being used )

3. 1200 – 1400 meters of fabric can be loaded once in the chamber.

4. Time required: 6 hours

No. of machines: 3

Things to be kept in mind while using jigger machines:

1. The machine should be properly cleaned before loading the fabric in machine for processing.

2. Temperature should be properly maintained according to the requirement of the fabric being processed.

3. Care should be taken while using the chemicals and should be used according to the specifications given by the supervisors.

• Relax Scouring Machine:

Manufacturer: Dhall Enterprises and Engineers Pvt. Ltd.

Parts of the range:

1. Fabric feeding system,


49

2. Guide rollers,

3. Caustic soda tank,

4. Soap tank,

5. squeeze rollers,

6. Expander rollers,

7. Steam chambers- 2 continuous, separate chambers (drums within it),

8. Pleater,

9. Storage chamber,

10. Intermediate mangles,

11. Hot wash chamber

12. Acid wash chamber, &

13. Take off system

Salient Features:

• Universal plant for woven pile and knitted fabrics.• Maximum washing performance by specific use of mechanical washing elements,

time, temperature, and chemicals.• Uniform and gentle liquor flow through the fabric.• Even fabric surface with best fastness value.• Low tension and crease-free fabric run with minimum residual shrinkage values.• Draft-free and safe fabric transportation even at highest speeds.• Low consumption of water and energy due to specific fresh water metering, counter-

current flow and optimized bath volume.• Process control system.• Easy-operation and easy maintenance of design.• Excellent washing results, reproducible at any time and assurance of required degree

of fastness.• All range can be automated.

Technical Specifications:

• Fabric width: 800 - 3000 MM In graduations of + 200 MM

• Roller faced width: Fabric width + 200 MM

• Guide rollers Dia: 125/150 Dia


50

• Squeeze rollers: Dia 254 MM

• Expander rollers: Bow type Sleeve Expanders 100, 125 MM Dia or Scroll Rollers driven in counter direction.

• Intermediate mangles: 0-3 tonnes

• Final mangles: T or 10 Tonnes NIP pressure

DYEING MACHINES:

At Bhilwara processosors limite following two types of dyeing machines are used:

1. Beam dyeing machine

2. Jet dyeing machine

BEAM DYEING MACHINE:

In beam dyeing machine the beam is created first by wounding the full length fabric on a perforated beam. After creating the beam the beam is inserted into the beam dyeing machine. In this type of dyeing the fabric is kept stationary and the dye liquor is circulated. This type of dyeing have good colour fastness.

Machinery in use:

Beam dyeing machine

Manufacturer – Dalal Engineering works

PH to be maintained – 4 to 5

Temperature to be maintained – 130 – 135 � c

Time taken for one lot – 4 hoursTextile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

51

The machine is started at 60 . c and is allowed to work for half and hour, the temperature is increased by certain amount to certain limit at regular interval of time.

JET DYEING MACHINE:

Jet dyeing is a very efficient contact between the dye liquor and fabric is obtained by both are in constant movement. This result improved level of dyeing shorter dyeing time. Fabric is circulated through the dye bath in rope form. The movement of the fabric occurs by circulating the dye-liquor through a venture jet.

Machinery in use:

Manufacturer – hegatex industries limited

PH of the jet dyeing machine – 4 to 5

Speed of fabric – 250 to 400 meters per minute.

Length of fabric that can be fed at once – 550 to 600 metres

Temperature – 130 � c to 137 � c

Time taken to complete the process: 90 minutes to 2 hours

STENTER MACHINE

Model: 6 chamber stenter machine

Manufacture: yammuna textile industries

Stenter machine is used primarily for heat setting. But also give several finishes to the fabric. In this machine fabric is passed through a tank containing the chemicals required to provide the finish to the fabric, then it is passed through a padding mangle when the liquid is squeezed for the fabric. The chain in the machine then carry the fabric to the chambers where the temperature is high and there are two blowers one at the bottom and another one at the top to blow hot air in the chamber which is responsible for the heat setting.

HEAT SETTING

It is a term used in the textile industry to describe a thermal process taking place mostly in either a steam atmosphere or a dry heat environment. The effect of the process gives fibers,yarns or fabric dimensional stability and, very often, other desirable attributes like higher volume, wrinkle resistance or temperature resistance. Very often, heat setting is also used to improve attributes for subsequent processes. Yarns tend to increased torquing just after spinning, cabling or twisting. Heat setting can influence or even eliminate this tendency to undesirable torquing.

1. Temperature – Between 60 to 180 à c depending on the type of fabric being processed


52

2. Mangle pressure – 4 to 6 kg per cm sq.

Number of stenter machine – 5

SINGEING MACHINE:

Manufacturer – OSTOFF singe

In this process fuzzy and protruding fibres are removed by burning them off. The main purposes are the fabrics that are required a clear and smooth surface for printing Usually performed on both sides of the fabric

In a singer, a fabric is passed over open flame at very high speed (200-400 mts/min) to prevent scorching, then passed through water ( or de-sizing bath) to extinguish any sparks. Uneven singeing may lead unlevel dyeing. Therefore, the fabric is passed through singer flat,in open width and under slight tension. The gas burner should be properly controlled and maintained; otherwise streaky dyeing may occur .

Specifications:

• Double Jet Burner

• Automatic Flame width adjustment

• Four singeing positions, centring devices, slat rollers, counter rotating scroll rolls

• Sequencing unit

• Speed – 100 metre/ mimute (can be maintained according the fabric requirement)

• Flame intensity can also be controlled.

KIER DECATISISING MACHINE

Model - PF – 2000

Manufacturer – TMT, Italy

Decatising or decatizing, also known as crabbing, blowing, and decating, is the process of making permanent a textile finish on a cloth.

Specifications:

1. Working width: 1700 meters

2. 3 decatizing cylinders with a diameter of 460 mm

3. Two beams have wrapper above them and one of them is vacant.

4. Exit with roll device.

5. Length of fabric rolled at once is 800 metres.Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

53

1 roll take half an hour for decatising out which th machine is placed in kier for 15 to 20 mins. Other 10 minutes are for cooling. It complete the chemical finishes being given to the fabric by baking the fabric using stem.

Production capacity of the machine - 25000 m everyday approximately.

CALENDERING MACHINE:

Model - 3 bowl calendar machine

Manufacturer – prabhat textile corporation

Calendering is a finish process given to the fabric to give shine and lusture to the fabric. It is done to enhance the aesthetic appeal of the fabric.

Specifications:

• Running speed – 5 to 30 meter per minute , it is generally operated at 25 to 28 meter per minute speed.

• Pressure – 2 to 35 tons

• Maximum temperature – 180 � c

• Roller face diameter – 600 mm to 3800 mm

• Top bow diameter – 200 mm

• Embossing roll diameter – 460 mm

• Heating element – electric pipe heating

No. Of Calendering machine - 2

SUPER FINISHING MACHINE

Manufacturer – Prabhat textile corporation

Super finishing is another finish process given to the fabric. It has the same function as that of the Calendering machine i.e. to enhance the physical finishes of the fabric, but the finish produced by this machine is superior in quality to that of the Calendering machine. It is generally done on expensive fabric or on the specification of the buyer.

Specifications:

1. No. Of bowls – 6

2. Speed of the machine – 25 to 30 meter per minute


54

3. Temperature of heating rollers – 15 0 � c

DRYING RANGE:

Manufacturer: yammuna textiles machinery

Drying range is used to dry the fabric after scouring, dyeing and several such processes. The machine contains a tank where washing of the fabric takes place prior to dry on the seam heated drums.

Specifications:

1. Total number of drums – 20

2. Number of Teflon coated drums – 10

3. Speed of the machine – 50 metre per minute ( can be controlled according to the requirement)

4. Pressure of the steam in the drum – 1.5 to 4 kg per cm sq.

5. Mangle pressure – 2.5 to 5 kg.

The fabric is passed through the soap solution in tank one which washes the fabric. Then it is passed through a padding mangle which squeezes the water out of the fabric , after that fabric is passed through 1st set of Teflon coated rollers where 75% of the drying takes place. After that the fabric passes through the 2nd set of stainless steel rollerr where the fabric is completely dried out and a certain level of shine also comes to the fabric.

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR FIBRE DYED FABRIC (POLYESTER VISCOSE)


55

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR PIECE DYED (POLYESTER VISCOSE)


56

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL AND WOOL WORSTED FABRICS (FIBRE DYED)


57

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER WOOL FABRIC (PIECE DYED)


58

TOPS & FIBRE DYEING DEPARTMENT

It is the department where the fibres, tops & yarns are being dyed.

Raw material gowdown:Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

59

Here the fibres, tops(slivers) & yarns are stored. Raw material is stored with its proper detail.

DYEING ROOM:

Spring convertor:

Here the cones of yarns are converted into the spring (which is suitable for the carrier of yarns in dyeing).

HT/HP DYEING MACHINE:

HT/HP dyeing machine is used for following processes:

• Fibre Dyeing

• Tops Dyeing

• Yarn dyeing.

• Wool Scouring.

The machine has specific carriers for each of the above mentioned dyeing processes.

Dyeing carriers are classified into 3 sections according to their weights:

• 1 kg, 1.5 kg and 2kg carriers are used for fibre and tops dyeing depending upon the requirement of the quantity to be dyed.

Tops are loaded in the carrier with the help of pressing machine and spindles while yarns and fibres are loaded and compressed manually in the specified carrier. Then the carriers are placed into the dyeing machine (with the help of electronic carriers – which hangs the carrier and carry it to the vessel and place it into the vessel) and water is circulated in the dyeing Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

60

chamber. The water is heated with the help of steam coils provided at the bottom of the dyeing machine chamber. When the temperature is raised to 60 � c the dye is added in the chamber (along with acetic acid, leveller and water softeners) and the temperature is gradually raised according to the specified requirements. The ph of dye bath is maintained at 4.5-5 during the dyeing process.

• Temperature for wool: 94 n c

• Temperature for polyester: 135 � c

Requirements for HT/HP dyeing:

• Total time consumed for dyeing medium and light shades: 1.45 hours.

• Total time consumed for dyeing heavy shades: 2 hours.

• Softener used for dyeing: Metashear.

The dyed materials are unloaded, with the help of electronic controlled loading/ unloading device, from the vessel. Then the dyed material goes for the drying.

• RF Drier for fibres.

• Tumble Drier (hydro extractor) & Hot Air Drier for tops and yarns.

The dyed fibres/tops/yarns are packaged and sent to the concerned departments as per the specified requirements.

Salient features of HT/HP Dyeing:

The top dyeing route allows us to make mixture or melange shades, which is not possible in other yarn dyeing systems.

• Top dyed production results in yarns for the highest quality woven goods, upholstery, machine knitwear, hosiery and hand-knitting.

• Dye from the finest to the coarsest of wools, and those that have been shrink resist treated for machine washable knitwear.

• Include ranges of natural fibres are noble fibres such as cashmere, alpaca, mohair, vicuna and silk.

• Polyesters and nylon tops are dyed, predominantly for blending with wool.

Technical features of HT/HP dyeing machine:

• Uniform dyeing


61

• Low running cost

• Reversible pump

• Injector pump

• Low ML Ratio 1:3

• Fully automatic operation

DRIERS:

• Radio Frequency Dryer

R.F. Technology

In a radio frequency heating system the RF generator creates an alternating electric field between two electrodes. The material to be heated is conveyed between the electrodes where the alternating energy causes polar molecules in the material to continuously reorient themselves to face opposite poles much like the way bar magnets behave in an alternating magnetic field. The friction resulting from molecular movement causes the material to rapidly heat throughout its entire mass.

The amount of heat generated in the product is determined by the frequency, the square of the applied voltage, dimensions of the product and the dielectric loss factor of the material, which is essentially a measure of the ease with which the material can be heated by radio frequency waves.

Advantages

• For those applications that require uniform heating and precise temperature control RF offers many advantages over conventional drying methods.

• Uniform heating through entire thickness

• 2 to 20 times faster than conventional drying methods

• Energy efficient

• Uniform moisture profiling

• Low maintenance

PROCESS FLOWCHART FOR POLYESTER TOPS


62

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR POLYESTER FIBRE


63

PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR WOOL TOPS:


64


65

FAST is a simple system of fabric objective measurement for assessing appearance, handle and performance of fabrics. It can predict how a fabric will perform when made up into a garment – information of great importance to fabric manufacturers, suppliers, finishers and garment makers.

FAST works by measuring and interpreting those parameters, identified by Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO), as being critical to fabric appearance, handle, and performance during garment manufacturing operations.


RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT (FAST)

66

FAST consists of three instruments and a test method:

• FAST – 1 Compression Meter

• FAST – 2 Bending Meter

• FAST – 3 Extension Meter

• FAST – 4 Dimensional Stability Test

FAST – 1 Compression Meter

Measures:

• Fabric thickness at various loads

• Surface layer thickness

The fabric thickness is displayed with a micrometre resolution which enables the accurate measurement of surface layer thickness – a parameter which indicates the formability of a finishing routine and stability of the finish applied.

Fast – 2 Bending Meter

Measures:

• Fabric bending length


67

Bending length is converted into bending rigidity which is directly related to fabric stiffness – an important component of fabric handle. Operator’s error in aligning the sample is eliminated using an optical sensor.

FAST – 3 Extension Meter

Measures:

• Fabric extension at various loads

• Bias extension

Extension is displayed with a 0.1% resolution. Bias extension is converted to fabric looseness – another important component of fabric handle. Fabric extensibility is combined with bending rigidity to give formability – a parameter related to the incidence of seam pucker.

FAST – 4 Dimension Stability Test


68

Measures:

• Relaxation shrinkage

• Hygral expansion

This test is completed in less than one hour. A forced convection oven, a template and a ruler are the equipment required.

The final result for each complete set of FAST test are output in the form of a chart or “fingerprint” on which all the measured and derived properties are plotted.

The result show a warning for the garment manufacturer if the properties are below the suggested limit.

Operations in garment manufacturing affected by fabric properties

Laying up cutting fusing sewing pressing appearance

Relaxation shrinkage

No No yes No yes yes

Hygral expansion

No No yes No yes yes

Formability No No No yes No yes

Extensibility yes yes No yes No yes

Bending No yes No yes No yesTextile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

69

rigidity

Shear rigidity

yes yes No yes No yes

Thickness yes No No No No yes

Following tests are also conducted:

1. Pilling test: pilling tester is used to assess the pilling resistance of the fabric.

The sample of the fabric to be tested is kept in the tumbler of the pilling tester for about 5 hours or and the tumble is allowed to move for 18000 rounds and then the fabric is evaluated by observation using the following parameters.

Rating Description What they look for

5

No change No effect on the sample

Slight change Slight effect on the sample


70

4

3

Moderate change Moderate change on the sample

2

Significant change Significant number of pills on the fabric

1

Severe change A very large number of pills on the fabric

Pilling test is done subjectively so, it requires the person conducting that test to be highly experienced and good observation skills.


71

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT

The Design and Development department of the BSL Suiting is concerned with the development of samples of designs as per the customer specifications and requirements as well as designs which are supposed to bring in more customers. These designs are developed after discussions within the department executives after a detailed study of the customer feedback and the market surveys which are carried out at regular intervals.

Process Flow:


DESIGN DEVELOPMENT AND MARKETING

72

Sample are produced in sampling section which are divided into Polyester Viscose and Pure Wool section.

Polyester Viscose blankets are produced on Shuttle Loom. The warping is done according to the Warp Tickets issued by the customers. The Weft Winding section is done on the basic winding machine.

The weaving is done on the looms which uses Shuttle as the weft carrier.

The blankets produced on power looms are 3 ½ metre in length and 35 inches in width. Each blanket comprises of 56 designs. 8 are in warp direction and 7are in weft direction. Some of these designs are developed based on the customer requirements and the remaining are


73

developed based on the market survey conducted by the Design and Development Department.

The blankets are then sent to the customers. The designs approved by the customers are then sent to various processing departments for the mass production.

BSL sampling section has 6 Shuttle looms.


74

MARKETING

BSL Marketing Section deals with the sales in Domestic and International Market. Domestically largest sales region for BSL suiting is southern India and Maharashtra. 5 lakh metres of fabric is sold domestically every month whereas the export volume of BSL Suitings is 9 lakh meters of fabric per month.

Organizational Chart (Domestic Sector):

Organizational Chart (Exports):Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

75

Process flow for marketing section:

Appointment of Agent:


76

This activities establish a media to enter into market and establish an agent for looking after the marketing activities in particular territory.

Activities (Domestic Sector)

1. Field Staff visits market and locate potential agents.

2. Asst. General Manager/Marketing Manager/Sales Manager receives communication from interested agent.

3. The top management discuss the ascertain potential of the future agent.

4. The finalization and appointment of the agents is done by the president.

5. The law firm then prepares the agreement.

6. Each agent is then assigned a annual target

7. Annual performance of the agent is reviewed at the end of the year

Activities (Exports)

1. The management visits a fair or exhibition to identify the potential agents/customers.

2. The samples are sent with required quotation to the interested parties.

3. Their Response is received.

4. If positive, then they are appointed as customers.

Production Advise & Co-ordination:

Activities (Domestic sector)

1. Production advice is prepared according to the accepted and anticipated order.

2. The advice is sent to development and commercial department.

3. Follow up is performed for process flow at various stages.

4. For piece dyed fabrics, issued dyeing program is sent to process house through godown.

Activities (Exports)

1. Consolidation of orders according to the delivery schedule.

2. Finalisation of shipping quality per month.

3. Preparation of production programme.Textile internship report – DILIP SINGH, KUMAR SARVESH, PRASHANT GAURAV, RAJEEV SHARAN- DFT-05/NIFT BANGALORE

77

4. Sent to the Commercial and Development department.

5. Follow up the process according to the delivery schedule.

Final Inspection and Grading:

The purpose is to ensure the customer’s satisfaction according to their specification.

Inspection Activities

1. Information of the Grey Fabric.

2. Information of the Finish fabric.

3. One piece of the random lot is taken and checked thoroughly.

4. Ensuring work instruction.

a) If accepted, sent to the Grading department.

b) If not accepted, the concerned department head is consulted.

c) The retreatment is done and is then sent for the inspection department.

Grading

1. After inspection delivery challan is issued for the fabric.

2. Packing material, screen, lot number is decided.

3. Grading instruction is issued.

4. A sample of 4.5 metre is issued.

5. Than is prepared

6. Weighting and stickering is done.

Grading system for synthetic fibres:

• Lump – suiting and shirting from 1.5 metre and above.

• Fresh – suiting length form 7.20 metre and above, shirting length from 8.0 metre and above.

• B – lump with minor defects


78

• SL – suiting length from 2.4 metre to 7.1 metre, shirting length from 4.0 metre to 7.8 metre.

• TL/SST – 1.2/1.3 metre

• SP/SST – 2.25/2.4 metre

• TL 2 – 95 to 114 centimetre

• FENT – 45 to 94 centimetre

• Rags – 25 to 44 centimetre

• Chindies or wastage – below 25 centimetre

Grading system for woollens:

• Fresh – 8.40 metre and above with no defects.

• B – 8.40 metre and above with minor defects.

• SLF I – 6 metre to 8.39 metre.

• SLF II – 1.2/1.3 metre.

• Second – 1.20 metre or above with defect

• TL 2 – 95 to 114 centimetre

• FENT – 45 to 94 centimetre

• Rags – 25 to 44 centimetre

• Chindies or wastage – below 25 centimetre

Dispatch

The department is concerned with the dispatch of the fabric to the consumers according to their demands.

1. Finished fabric is received from the folding department.

2. The fabric is checked for details through the challans for details according to the production instruction.

3. The goods are packed in cartons according to the packing instructions specified.


79

4. The details of the packed goods are submitted to the excise department for clearance.

5. The balance stock is kept in the racks and the details are entered in the stock reports.

6. The finished fabrics are dispatched.

Customer communication process:

1. Communication is received from the customer regarding requirement of product, delivery and post delivery activities and the record is maintained.

2. The communication regarding each contract and order is maintained with the customer.

3. Feedback is obtained and record is maintained.

Handling of customer’s complaints:

1. Complaints are received from the market.

2. Complaints are sent to marketing manager, sales manager, field staff and is registered.

3. Nature of the complaint is analyzed.

4. The complaints are discussed with the dealers.

5. The complaints are reviewed and discussed with the concerned field staff which yields two results:

a. The complaint is genuine, if the complaint is genuine following procedure is followed.

1. Settle the claim on commercial basis like rebates.

2. The concerned department is informed.

3. The corrective action is initiated.

4. The concerned department is informed to prevent the occurrence of the same defect in future.

b. The complaint is not genuine, if the complaint is not genuine following procedure is followed.


80

1. The agent dealer is informed.

2. The defective sample is received along with the nature of the complaint.

3. The sample is analysed and checked

4. The complaint is informed about the result of the analysis.

EXPORT DEPARTMENT:

BSL Export Department deals with the sales in the foreign countries. There are five export officers who deals with the agents or the customers directly for the export of the suitings and shirtings.

BSL exports its finished products in approximately 55 countries. The major regions in the world where BSL exports are the Latin America ( Peru, Equador, Chile, etc), Middle East (Egypt, Saudi Arabia), South Asia (Vietnam, Thailand, Indonesia) and Europe (Spain, Germany). It has been in the export business since 1987-88.

The export officers travel in various exhibitions and fairs to identify the potential buyers and agents. Tex World which are held in Paris, France twice a year( February and September ) is considered to be the Mecca for exhibition for textiles.

The department need an irrevocable letter of credit for the order placement. In case of the risk, e.g. Export in African Countries, BSL gets the deposit of the part of the money in advance. For the new customers, BSL sends some sample for their approval. 75-90 days lead time is required for the export of Fibre dyed fabric and 10 days lead time is required for the export of Piece dyed fabric.

Shipment is done from the Mumbai Office of BSL at Nariman Point. Two types of shipment is done- Loose Load Container(LLC) and Full Load Container(FLC).

BSL has around 250 companies and retail buyers around the world for e.g. HAGER (U.S.A), JC PENNY (U.S.A) and C&A (Germany).

The Export Department accounts for about 60% of the annual turnover of the company which is around 250 crores.

CONCLUSION


81

Textile manufacturing is a multiple stage production system comprising of conversion of fibres to yarns, yarns to fabrics and fabric finishing. Spinning is the operation in which the fibre is converted to yarns and various process that the fibre undergo to get its yarn form are blending in which the fabric is opened form is bale form and mixed with the desired fabric to give the desired finishes, blow room in blow room the bales are further opened and converted into lap form for further operation, the lap is further converted into sliver in cards in the process known as carding, the slivers are then parallelised to give more strength in the drawing machine in drawing operation , then the slivers are imparted twist and are wound in the form of roving in the speed frame, after the roving have been made the fibres are converted to yarns in the ring frame, after pinning the defects from the yarns are removed in the autoconer , after that the fabric are given twist if required and are packaged for further operations.

The yarns in weaving section are made into warp beams into warping section for using them into further weaving operations, the fibres wound on the beams are then drawn in the drawing in department where they are passed through heald. These beams are then transported to the weaving loom where the formation of the fabric takes place. After fabric formation the fabric is sent to the inspection section where the defects in the fabric are checked and they are sent to the mending section for corrective action on the defect, after the fabrics have been mended they are rolled and sent to the processing department.

In processing department the fabric are given fabric treatment according to the requirements, for yarn dyed fabric they are given the treatment like scouring to remove the dirt or impurities in the accumulated during the weaving process. They are also given treatments like heat setting to give dimensional stability to the fabric, singeing is done to remove the protruding fibres on the fabric surface, the fabric is then given treatments like Calendering , deacatisting or super finishing to give the required finish to the fabric. In case of yarn dyed fabric the fabrics are scoured first to remove the impurities, and then they are dyed in either jet dyeing machine, beam dyeing machine or the jiggers. Then they are given the required treatment to finish the fabric according to the buyer specification. Processing can also been done prior to the fabric formation the fibres, tops or yarns can also be dyed which will produce the yarn dyed fabric.

Throughout the above stated procedure of conversion of fibres to fabric extreme care should be taken and production process needs to be carefully monitored as even a slight variation may cause huge loss to the organisation. The production plan is a well chalked out plan and utmost care is take to maintain the quality standards SQC and R&D are always working. The production process is very closely monitored to minimize the defects while the production process is being carried out and since a major portion of the fabric produced is for export purpose adhering to the world class quality standard is a must so the work of quality control and research and development department is of very high importance.


82


Date post:	09-Jul-2015
Category:	Documents
Upload:	rajeev-sharan
View:	354 times
Download:	22 times

Report-BSL

Documents