Research ArticleA Study on Coloring Properties ofRheum emodi on Jute Union Fabrics
Lopamudra Nayak
Orissa University of Agriculture amp Technology Bhubaneswar 751003 India
Correspondence should be addressed to Lopamudra Nayak lichalopagmailcom
Received 28 September 2013 Revised 4 December 2013 Accepted 26 December 2013 Published 11 February 2014
Academic Editor Anindya Ghosh
Copyright copy 2014 Lopamudra Nayak This is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution Licensewhich permits unrestricted use distribution and reproduction in any medium provided the original work is properly cited
Jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics have been printedwith colorant extracted fromRheum emodiwith guar gumand albumin asthickening agents and aluminium sulphate copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate asmordants Printing withRheum emodi colorantwith different mordants resulted in different shades ranging from yellowish brown deep brown reddish brown and gray shadesto olive black The KS value showed that mordants namely CuSO
4and FeSO
4 exhibited high colour absorption regardless of the
nature of material used All the printed samples have good to excellent wash rubbing and light fastness properties regardless of thenature of materials mordants and thickeners used Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thickening agent and consideringthe cost and availability of raw material guar gum is the better choice for the textile industry
1 Introduction
Renewable biodegradable and sustainable natural fibers andnatural colorants could be potential substitutes for energy-intensive and petrochemical-based synthetic fibers and col-orants in many applications and serve as an effective way ofreducing the impact textiles have on the environment Themost classically known fibers such as jute cotton and woolare environmentally friendly healthy and comfortable Inaddition use of natural colorants on these fibers has becomevery much popular throughout the world due to its eco-friendliness and aesthetic approach
Jute is a lingo-cellulosic composite natural bast fiberits major constituent components being cellulose hemi-cellulose and lignin It has high tensile strength with lowextensibility which helps to make the best quality industrialyarn and fabricThe inherent drawback of jute such as harsh-ness brittleness and low extensibility pose a hindrance forits use as furnishings and apparels [1 2] To overcome theseproblems jute fabrics could be produced with blend or unionwith other natural and manmade fibers Furthermore thesefabrics are subjected to coloration to improve its appearance
Though renewable dye resources provide important alter-natives for fossil-based colorants from the sustainabilitypoint of view it is desirable to use natural dyes to a greater
extent Rheum emodi commonly known as Himalayanrhubarb is one such natural colorant found in the sub-alpine and alpine Himalayas at an altitude of 3000ndash5000meters Rheum emodi is a medicinal herb and belongs tothe family PolygonaceaeThe Indian rhubarb (Rheum emodi)commonly known as ldquoDolurdquo (Sanskrit Amlaparni Revat-chini Hindi Revand chini) are reported to be used forcuring of a variety of diseases its main effect being apositive and balancing effect upon thewhole digestive systemThe rhizomes and roots of Rheum emodi yield a yellowcoloring matter which could be used for textile colorationThe plant contains 3ndash5 anthracene derivatives In the plantthe anthraquinoid components are present in reduced formas anthraglycosides which hydrolyze and oxidize to therespective anthraquinoneThe extracted dye contains a com-plex mixture of anthraquinones relevant compounds areEmodin Chrysophanol Aloeemodin Rhein and Physcionand the chief colouring component is chrysophanic acid [3ndash6]
The alkaline extract of root gives a brown colored pow-dered dye The structures of the molecules are shown inFigure 1
The formation of complexes due to the presence of metalsalt from mordanting considerably improves dye uptake andall round fastness properties Mordant brings about change
Hindawi Publishing CorporationJournal of TextilesVolume 2014 Article ID 593782 7 pageshttpdxdoiorg1011552014593782
2 Journal of Textiles
H3C H3C
OO
O OChrysophanolEmodin
OHOH OHOH
OH CH3
O O O
OPhyscion
O ORhein
OAloeemodin
OH OH OH OH OH
OH
OH
OCH3CH2OH
Figure 1 Some of the anthraquinoid dye structure of Rheum emodi Emodin Chrysophanol Aloeemodin Rhein and Physcion
of the hue of the natural colorants which can be utilizedwith advantage to produce different shades on protein andcellulosic substrates Keeping environment related issues andadoption of cleaner technology in view inorganic salts suchas aluminium sulphate potash alum and ferrous sulphatecan be employed as mordanting agent in view of their goodcomplex forming ability and environmental safe characterMyrobalan is used as a source of tannin either alone orin combination with inorganic salts as mordanting agentsespecially for cotton [5 6]
Thickeners are needed to help control the dye to giveit some bulk when printing with the dye Guar gum can beused for most types of printing as it is very stable in all pHlevels Guar is a native to the Indian subcontinent and offers acheaper alternative to Gum Arabic and Gum Senegal Albu-min can be used both as a thickening and a fixing agent intextile printing They are widely distributed in plant and ani-mal tissues for example legumelin of peas leucosin of wheatovalbumin of egg serum albumin of bovine and lactalbuminof milk and so forth [7 8]
The present study examines the coloring properties ofnatural colorant Rheum emodi on jutecotton and jutewoolunion fabrics and compares the performances of albumin andguar gum as thickening agents along with aluminium sul-phate copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate as mordants
2 Materials and Methods
21 Materials Mill-scoured and bleached jutecotton(60 40) union fabric with cotton yarn in the warp and jutecotton yarns in the weft direction (plain weave thickness195mm EPI17 PPI17) and jutewool (60 40) union fabricwith wool yarn in the warp and jutewool yarns in the weftdirection (plain weave thickness 197mm EPI17 PPI14)were purchased from the market Jute yarns used in thefabrics were cream colored (not bleached white)
Natural dye powder Rheum emodi (alkaline extractbrown colored powder) andmyrobalan (Terminalia chebula)were obtained from Ms ALPS Industries Ltd GhaziabadIndia Thickeners namely guar gum and albumin and mor-dants such as alum copper sulphate (CuSO
4) ferrous sul-
phate (FeSO4) and all other chemicals such as acetic acid and
glycerin used were of laboratory grade
22 Methods
221 Scouring Jutecotton and jutewool union fabrics werewashed with nonionic detergent (2 gL) and washing soda
(05 gL) for half an hour at a temperature of 50∘Cndash60∘Ckeeping the material to liquor ratio at 1 30 to facilitatesubsequent mordanting and printing operation The scouredmaterial was thoroughly washed with tap water and dried atroom temperature
222 Treatment with Myrobalan Half of the fabric sampleswere treated with myrobalan (20 gL) for 15 minutes at a tem-perature of 40∘Cndash60∘C keeping thematerial to liquor ratio at1 20 The materials were taken out from bath and squeezedevenly and dried Precaution is to be taken not to drythe treated cloth in direct sun light as the surface exposed tosun becomes darker resulting uneven shades in printing
Myrobalan is an important tannin-based mordant forcellulosic fiber namely cotton Treatment with tannin intro-duces additional hydroxyl and carboxyl groups on the fibermatrix A subsequent treatment of tannin treated cellulosewith metal salts introduces the respective cation in the fiberthat leads to the formation of metal complexes
223 Preparation of Thickening Agents
(1) Guar Gum The guar gum powder was sprinkled slowly inlukewarm water with continuous stirring in order to preventlump formationThemixturewas cooked for half an hour andallowed to be cooled
(2) Albumin Albumin was dissolved in cold water and keptfor overnight to dissolve properly Formost purposes one partof albumin is mixed with one part of gum
224 Preparation of Stock Paste Mordants were first dis-solved in water and then added to cold thickening agents (seeTable 1)
(1) JuteCotton Union Fabric The printing pastes forjutecotton union fabric were prepared using the followingrecipe
Rheum emodi dye powder 10 gmglycerin 25 gmstock paste 875 gmtotal weight of the paste 100 gm
(2) JuteWool Union Fabric The printing pastes for jutewoolunion fabric were prepared using the following recipe
Rheum emodi dye powder 10 gmglycerin 25 gmacetic acid 5 gmstock paste 825 gmtotal weight of the paste 100 gm
The print paste was continuously stirred by a mechanicalstirrer
226 Printing Procedure Printing was carried out on bothtannin pretreated fabrics and untreated fabrics using the flatscreen technique Printed samples were then dried The sam-ples were steamed in a saturated atmosphere for 30 minutesin a star steamer Printed samples were washed with waterand then dried in air (see Table 2)
23 Measurement of Color Strength The printed sampleswere evaluated for the depth of the prints by light reflectancemeasurements using a JAYPAK 4802 colourmatching systemat D65 illuminate10Deg Observer The color strength (119870119878value) was assessed using the Kubelka-Munk equation
119870
119878=(1 minus 119877)
2
2119877 (1)
where 119877 is the reflectance at specific wavelengths 119870 is theabsorption coefficient and 119878 is the scattering coefficient
In general higher the 119870119878 values the higher the depth ofthe colour on the fabric
The colour of printed fabric samples was alsomeasured interms of CIELAB colour space namely color parameters 119871lowast(+ lightness minus darkness) 119886lowast (+ red minus green) and 119887lowast (+ yel-low minus blue) by using Computer ColourMatching System [910] The total colour deference Δ119864lowast was also evaluated usingthe following equation
Δ119864lowast
119886119887= [(Δ119871
lowast)2
+ (Δ119886lowast)2
+ (Δ119887lowast)2
]12
(2)
where
119871lowast= 116(119884
119884119899
)
13
minus 16
119886lowast= 500 [(
119883
119883119899
)
13
minus (119884
119884119899
)
13
]
119887lowast= 200 [(
119884
119884119899
)
13
minus (119885
119885119899
)
13
]
(3)
24 Tests for Fastness Properties The fastness properties ofthe printed samples towards washing rubbing and light wereassessed using standard methods
Evaluation of color fastness to washing was determinedas per IS 764ndash1984method using a Sasmira launder-O-meterand following IS-3 wash fastness method The wash fastnessrating was assessed using grey scale as per ISO-05-A02 (lossof shade depth) and ISO-105-AO3 (extent of staining) Colourfastness to rubbing (dry and wet) was assessed as per IS 766ndash1984 method using a manually operated Paramount crockmeter Colour fastness to light was determined as per IS2454ndash1984 method The sample was exposed to xenon lightin a Paramount digiLIGHT fade-O-meter along with theeight blue wool standards (BS 1006 BOI 1978) The fading
4 Journal of Textiles
Table 3 Yielding of colours with different mordants
Sample code Color obtainedUJC1 Yellow ochreUJC2 Light brownUJC3 BrownUJC4 Gray (light grayish ash)MJC1 Brown (cinnamon-copper shade)MJC2 Brown (dark cinnamon shade)MJC3 Gray-blackUJW1 Yellowish brownUJW2 Deep brownUJW3 Deep brown (russet)UJW4 GrayMJW1 Brownish yellowMJW2 Deep brown (russet)MJW3 Deep brownUJC11015840 Earth yellowUJC21015840 Deep brownUJC31015840 Deep brown (brown-nose)UJC41015840 Deep brown (seal brown)MJC11015840 Golden-brownMJC21015840 BrownMJC31015840 Yellowish brownUJW11015840 Yellowish brownUJW21015840 Dark goldenrodUJW31015840 Dark goldenrodUJW41015840 Coffee brownMJW11015840 Brownish yellowMJW21015840 Grayish brownMJW31015840 Olive black
of each sample was observed against the fading of blue woolstandards (1ndash8)
3 Results and Discussion
The 119870119878 value (Figures 2 and 3) indicates that mordantsnamely CuSO
4and FeSO
4exhibited high colour absorption
(119870119878) regardless of the nature of material used whichmay beattributed to their ability to form strong coordination com-plexes with the dye molecules Furthermore the high colourabsorption and colour difference (Tables 3 and 4) to a certainextent may be due to the changes in scattering because ofthe chemical interactions between fibers and tannin andormetallic salts along with the additional inherent colour inputof the corresponding mordants
Jute-wool union printed fabrics pretreated withmyrobalan showed comparatively higher 119870119878 values thanthe untreated fabrics furthermore the 119870119878 values in case ofjute-wool union fabrics were in most cases higher than theircorresponding samples of jute-cotton union fabrics exceptionbeing jute-cotton untreated fabric particularly UJC21015840 andUJC31015840 printed using albumin as thickening agent whichyielded darker and shining shades This may be due to
10
8
6
4
2
0
Colour strength (KS)
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJC
+ al
bum
in
UJC
+ g
uar g
um
MJC
+ al
bum
in
MJC
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 2 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutecotton union fabrics
Colour strength (KS)
10
8
6
4
2
0
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJW
+ al
bum
in
UJW
+ g
uar g
um
MJW
+ al
bum
in
MJW
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 3 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutewool union fabrics
the fact that myrobalan contains natural colour as well asnatural tannin and in addition to that in case of protein fibersuch as wool three types of bonds namely hydrogen bondionic bond and covalent bond are formed However in caseof cellulosic fabrics the tannin could form only two types ofbonds that is hydrogen bond and covalent bond Moreoverthe penetration of mordant and colour in wool is easier thanthat of cellulose fibers as the fiber is porous softer andmore elastic hence higher colour absorption occurs in case
of myrobalan treated jute-wool union printed fabricsRegarding jute-cotton untreated fabric yielding darker shadeswith albumin as thickening agent it may be due to the factthat albumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as amordant thus increasing the colour absorption for a numberof colors despite that guar gum as a thickening agent is alsonearly as efficient as albumin Furthermore consideringthe cost availability and ethical issue guar gum is the bestchoice as guar is a native plant abundantly available themost economical and can be used for most types of printingowing to its stability in all pH levels and therefore suitableprint-paste thickener unlike albumin
Colour analysis in terms of lightness (Δ119871lowast) and theCartesian coordinates Δ119886lowast and Δ119887lowast showed that the overallprincipal colours yielded on jute-cotton and jute-wool unionfabrics were ranged from yellow ochre yellowish brown deepbrown grey and coffee to olive black and affected by the typeofmordant usedThe addition of amordant to an appropriatecolorant results in sudden change in color owing to theincorporation of the metal atom which has low energy levelsinto the delocalized electron system of the dye subsequentlylowering of the overall energyThe absorbance of the hue andthus its color is related to this phenomenon
On the 119871lowast plane the measurement difference of valueswas positive in case of a few samples printed with alummordant (UJC2 MJC1 UJW11015840 and UJW21015840) correspondingto lighter shades whereas the Δ119871lowast values were found tobe negative in case of all other samples mordanted withalum copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate corresponding todarker shades It is evident that the type of shades producedand the level of absorption of colorant were affected by usingthe different mordants and pretreatment with myrobalanwhose chemical reaction with the natural colorant dependedon the unique structures of the colour components and on thestrength of the tannin andor metal-colorant coordinationcomplex formed during the printing process
Tables 5 and 6 revealed the fastness properties of theprinted samples Both untreated and myrobalan treated juteunion fabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferroussulphate mordants showed excellent colorfastness propertiesFurthermore the overall fastness properties such as washingrubbing and light for all mordanted samples were very satis-factory (rating lies between good to excellent) regardless ofthe nature of materials mordants and thickeners usedThusit is evident that the complexmixture of anthraquinone struc-tures of Rheum emodi is capable of forming stable complexeswith the metal ions resulting in improved colourfastnessto washing rubbing and lightfastness Besides presence ofanthraquinone structure as is found inRheum emodi shows ingeneral an increased resistance to light fading [11] Moreoveralbumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as fixing agentand hence further enhances the fastness properties of juteunion fabrics
4 Conclusions
(i) The choice of mordants thickeners and fibers typeshas significant influence on colour values Printingwith Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) colorantwith different mordants resulted in different shadesranging from yellowish brown deep brown reddishbrown and gray shades to olive black The 119870119878 valueshowed that mordants namely CuSO
4and FeSO
4
exhibited high colour absorption (119870119878) regardless ofthe nature of material used
(ii) All the printed samples have good to excellent washrubbing and light fastness properties regardless of thenature of materials mordants and thickeners usedBoth untreated and myrobalan treated jutecottonfabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferrous
Journal of Textiles 7
sulphate mordants showed excellent all round color-fastness properties
(iii) Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thick-ening agent and considering the cost availability andethical issue guar gum is the best choice as guar isa native plant abundantly available and cheap unlikealbumin
It can be concluded from the present investigation that thenatural colorant Rheum emodi can be successfully employedto print jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics
Conflict of Interests
The author declares that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper
Acknowledgment
The author expresses Sincere thanks toMs Ankita Saxena forher encourage and help to complete this minor project
References
[1] S P Mishra Text Book of Fiber Science and Technology NewageInternational 2005
[2] B N Bandyopadhyay and N R Salaskar ldquoProspects of juterdquoIndian Textile Journal vol 12 no 5 pp 12ndash25 1997
[3] T Bechtold and R Mussak Eds Natural Colorants-QuinoidNaphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes JohnWiley and Sons2009
[4] M S AkhtarM AminM Ahmad andAlamgeer ldquoHepatopro-tective effect of Rheum emodi roots (Revand chini) and Akseer-e-Jigar against paracetamol-induced hepatotoxicity in ratsrdquoEthnobotanical Leaflets vol 13 pp 310ndash315 2009
[5] D Das S R Maulik and S C Bhattacharya ldquoColouration ofwool and silk with Rheum emodirdquo Indian Journal of Fibre andTextile Research vol 33 no 2 pp 163ndash170 2008
[6] A K Samanta and A Konar ldquoDyeing of Textiles with NaturalDyesrdquo in Natural Dyes P A Kumbasar Ed pp 30ndash56 InTech2011
[7] M Dressler P Fischer and E J Windhab ldquoRheological char-acterization and modeling of aqueous guar gum solutionsrdquo inProceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Food Rheol-ogy and Structure pp 249ndash253 2002
[8] ldquoThe Columbia Electronic Encyclopediardquo Columbia UniversityPress 2013 httpcupcolumbiaedu
[9] ldquoApplications Notes insight on Color CIE Llowastalowastblowast Color ScalerdquoHunterLab vol 8 no 7 pp 1ndash4 2008
[10] P B Tayade and R V Adivarekar ldquoDyeing of silk fabric withCuminum Cyminum L as a source of natural dyerdquo InternationalJournal of ChemTech Research vol 5 no 2 pp 699ndash706 2013
[11] N S Allen ldquoPhotofading mechanisms of dyes in solution andpolymer mediardquo Review of Progress in Coloration and RelatedTopics vol 17 no 1 pp 61ndash71 1987
Figure 1 Some of the anthraquinoid dye structure of Rheum emodi Emodin Chrysophanol Aloeemodin Rhein and Physcion
of the hue of the natural colorants which can be utilizedwith advantage to produce different shades on protein andcellulosic substrates Keeping environment related issues andadoption of cleaner technology in view inorganic salts suchas aluminium sulphate potash alum and ferrous sulphatecan be employed as mordanting agent in view of their goodcomplex forming ability and environmental safe characterMyrobalan is used as a source of tannin either alone orin combination with inorganic salts as mordanting agentsespecially for cotton [5 6]
Thickeners are needed to help control the dye to giveit some bulk when printing with the dye Guar gum can beused for most types of printing as it is very stable in all pHlevels Guar is a native to the Indian subcontinent and offers acheaper alternative to Gum Arabic and Gum Senegal Albu-min can be used both as a thickening and a fixing agent intextile printing They are widely distributed in plant and ani-mal tissues for example legumelin of peas leucosin of wheatovalbumin of egg serum albumin of bovine and lactalbuminof milk and so forth [7 8]
The present study examines the coloring properties ofnatural colorant Rheum emodi on jutecotton and jutewoolunion fabrics and compares the performances of albumin andguar gum as thickening agents along with aluminium sul-phate copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate as mordants
2 Materials and Methods
21 Materials Mill-scoured and bleached jutecotton(60 40) union fabric with cotton yarn in the warp and jutecotton yarns in the weft direction (plain weave thickness195mm EPI17 PPI17) and jutewool (60 40) union fabricwith wool yarn in the warp and jutewool yarns in the weftdirection (plain weave thickness 197mm EPI17 PPI14)were purchased from the market Jute yarns used in thefabrics were cream colored (not bleached white)
Natural dye powder Rheum emodi (alkaline extractbrown colored powder) andmyrobalan (Terminalia chebula)were obtained from Ms ALPS Industries Ltd GhaziabadIndia Thickeners namely guar gum and albumin and mor-dants such as alum copper sulphate (CuSO
4) ferrous sul-
phate (FeSO4) and all other chemicals such as acetic acid and
glycerin used were of laboratory grade
22 Methods
221 Scouring Jutecotton and jutewool union fabrics werewashed with nonionic detergent (2 gL) and washing soda
(05 gL) for half an hour at a temperature of 50∘Cndash60∘Ckeeping the material to liquor ratio at 1 30 to facilitatesubsequent mordanting and printing operation The scouredmaterial was thoroughly washed with tap water and dried atroom temperature
222 Treatment with Myrobalan Half of the fabric sampleswere treated with myrobalan (20 gL) for 15 minutes at a tem-perature of 40∘Cndash60∘C keeping thematerial to liquor ratio at1 20 The materials were taken out from bath and squeezedevenly and dried Precaution is to be taken not to drythe treated cloth in direct sun light as the surface exposed tosun becomes darker resulting uneven shades in printing
Myrobalan is an important tannin-based mordant forcellulosic fiber namely cotton Treatment with tannin intro-duces additional hydroxyl and carboxyl groups on the fibermatrix A subsequent treatment of tannin treated cellulosewith metal salts introduces the respective cation in the fiberthat leads to the formation of metal complexes
223 Preparation of Thickening Agents
(1) Guar Gum The guar gum powder was sprinkled slowly inlukewarm water with continuous stirring in order to preventlump formationThemixturewas cooked for half an hour andallowed to be cooled
(2) Albumin Albumin was dissolved in cold water and keptfor overnight to dissolve properly Formost purposes one partof albumin is mixed with one part of gum
224 Preparation of Stock Paste Mordants were first dis-solved in water and then added to cold thickening agents (seeTable 1)
(1) JuteCotton Union Fabric The printing pastes forjutecotton union fabric were prepared using the followingrecipe
Rheum emodi dye powder 10 gmglycerin 25 gmstock paste 875 gmtotal weight of the paste 100 gm
(2) JuteWool Union Fabric The printing pastes for jutewoolunion fabric were prepared using the following recipe
Rheum emodi dye powder 10 gmglycerin 25 gmacetic acid 5 gmstock paste 825 gmtotal weight of the paste 100 gm
The print paste was continuously stirred by a mechanicalstirrer
226 Printing Procedure Printing was carried out on bothtannin pretreated fabrics and untreated fabrics using the flatscreen technique Printed samples were then dried The sam-ples were steamed in a saturated atmosphere for 30 minutesin a star steamer Printed samples were washed with waterand then dried in air (see Table 2)
23 Measurement of Color Strength The printed sampleswere evaluated for the depth of the prints by light reflectancemeasurements using a JAYPAK 4802 colourmatching systemat D65 illuminate10Deg Observer The color strength (119870119878value) was assessed using the Kubelka-Munk equation
119870
119878=(1 minus 119877)
2
2119877 (1)
where 119877 is the reflectance at specific wavelengths 119870 is theabsorption coefficient and 119878 is the scattering coefficient
In general higher the 119870119878 values the higher the depth ofthe colour on the fabric
The colour of printed fabric samples was alsomeasured interms of CIELAB colour space namely color parameters 119871lowast(+ lightness minus darkness) 119886lowast (+ red minus green) and 119887lowast (+ yel-low minus blue) by using Computer ColourMatching System [910] The total colour deference Δ119864lowast was also evaluated usingthe following equation
Δ119864lowast
119886119887= [(Δ119871
lowast)2
+ (Δ119886lowast)2
+ (Δ119887lowast)2
]12
(2)
where
119871lowast= 116(119884
119884119899
)
13
minus 16
119886lowast= 500 [(
119883
119883119899
)
13
minus (119884
119884119899
)
13
]
119887lowast= 200 [(
119884
119884119899
)
13
minus (119885
119885119899
)
13
]
(3)
24 Tests for Fastness Properties The fastness properties ofthe printed samples towards washing rubbing and light wereassessed using standard methods
Evaluation of color fastness to washing was determinedas per IS 764ndash1984method using a Sasmira launder-O-meterand following IS-3 wash fastness method The wash fastnessrating was assessed using grey scale as per ISO-05-A02 (lossof shade depth) and ISO-105-AO3 (extent of staining) Colourfastness to rubbing (dry and wet) was assessed as per IS 766ndash1984 method using a manually operated Paramount crockmeter Colour fastness to light was determined as per IS2454ndash1984 method The sample was exposed to xenon lightin a Paramount digiLIGHT fade-O-meter along with theeight blue wool standards (BS 1006 BOI 1978) The fading
4 Journal of Textiles
Table 3 Yielding of colours with different mordants
Sample code Color obtainedUJC1 Yellow ochreUJC2 Light brownUJC3 BrownUJC4 Gray (light grayish ash)MJC1 Brown (cinnamon-copper shade)MJC2 Brown (dark cinnamon shade)MJC3 Gray-blackUJW1 Yellowish brownUJW2 Deep brownUJW3 Deep brown (russet)UJW4 GrayMJW1 Brownish yellowMJW2 Deep brown (russet)MJW3 Deep brownUJC11015840 Earth yellowUJC21015840 Deep brownUJC31015840 Deep brown (brown-nose)UJC41015840 Deep brown (seal brown)MJC11015840 Golden-brownMJC21015840 BrownMJC31015840 Yellowish brownUJW11015840 Yellowish brownUJW21015840 Dark goldenrodUJW31015840 Dark goldenrodUJW41015840 Coffee brownMJW11015840 Brownish yellowMJW21015840 Grayish brownMJW31015840 Olive black
of each sample was observed against the fading of blue woolstandards (1ndash8)
3 Results and Discussion
The 119870119878 value (Figures 2 and 3) indicates that mordantsnamely CuSO
4and FeSO
4exhibited high colour absorption
(119870119878) regardless of the nature of material used whichmay beattributed to their ability to form strong coordination com-plexes with the dye molecules Furthermore the high colourabsorption and colour difference (Tables 3 and 4) to a certainextent may be due to the changes in scattering because ofthe chemical interactions between fibers and tannin andormetallic salts along with the additional inherent colour inputof the corresponding mordants
Jute-wool union printed fabrics pretreated withmyrobalan showed comparatively higher 119870119878 values thanthe untreated fabrics furthermore the 119870119878 values in case ofjute-wool union fabrics were in most cases higher than theircorresponding samples of jute-cotton union fabrics exceptionbeing jute-cotton untreated fabric particularly UJC21015840 andUJC31015840 printed using albumin as thickening agent whichyielded darker and shining shades This may be due to
10
8
6
4
2
0
Colour strength (KS)
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJC
+ al
bum
in
UJC
+ g
uar g
um
MJC
+ al
bum
in
MJC
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 2 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutecotton union fabrics
Colour strength (KS)
10
8
6
4
2
0
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJW
+ al
bum
in
UJW
+ g
uar g
um
MJW
+ al
bum
in
MJW
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 3 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutewool union fabrics
the fact that myrobalan contains natural colour as well asnatural tannin and in addition to that in case of protein fibersuch as wool three types of bonds namely hydrogen bondionic bond and covalent bond are formed However in caseof cellulosic fabrics the tannin could form only two types ofbonds that is hydrogen bond and covalent bond Moreoverthe penetration of mordant and colour in wool is easier thanthat of cellulose fibers as the fiber is porous softer andmore elastic hence higher colour absorption occurs in case
of myrobalan treated jute-wool union printed fabricsRegarding jute-cotton untreated fabric yielding darker shadeswith albumin as thickening agent it may be due to the factthat albumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as amordant thus increasing the colour absorption for a numberof colors despite that guar gum as a thickening agent is alsonearly as efficient as albumin Furthermore consideringthe cost availability and ethical issue guar gum is the bestchoice as guar is a native plant abundantly available themost economical and can be used for most types of printingowing to its stability in all pH levels and therefore suitableprint-paste thickener unlike albumin
Colour analysis in terms of lightness (Δ119871lowast) and theCartesian coordinates Δ119886lowast and Δ119887lowast showed that the overallprincipal colours yielded on jute-cotton and jute-wool unionfabrics were ranged from yellow ochre yellowish brown deepbrown grey and coffee to olive black and affected by the typeofmordant usedThe addition of amordant to an appropriatecolorant results in sudden change in color owing to theincorporation of the metal atom which has low energy levelsinto the delocalized electron system of the dye subsequentlylowering of the overall energyThe absorbance of the hue andthus its color is related to this phenomenon
On the 119871lowast plane the measurement difference of valueswas positive in case of a few samples printed with alummordant (UJC2 MJC1 UJW11015840 and UJW21015840) correspondingto lighter shades whereas the Δ119871lowast values were found tobe negative in case of all other samples mordanted withalum copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate corresponding todarker shades It is evident that the type of shades producedand the level of absorption of colorant were affected by usingthe different mordants and pretreatment with myrobalanwhose chemical reaction with the natural colorant dependedon the unique structures of the colour components and on thestrength of the tannin andor metal-colorant coordinationcomplex formed during the printing process
Tables 5 and 6 revealed the fastness properties of theprinted samples Both untreated and myrobalan treated juteunion fabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferroussulphate mordants showed excellent colorfastness propertiesFurthermore the overall fastness properties such as washingrubbing and light for all mordanted samples were very satis-factory (rating lies between good to excellent) regardless ofthe nature of materials mordants and thickeners usedThusit is evident that the complexmixture of anthraquinone struc-tures of Rheum emodi is capable of forming stable complexeswith the metal ions resulting in improved colourfastnessto washing rubbing and lightfastness Besides presence ofanthraquinone structure as is found inRheum emodi shows ingeneral an increased resistance to light fading [11] Moreoveralbumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as fixing agentand hence further enhances the fastness properties of juteunion fabrics
4 Conclusions
(i) The choice of mordants thickeners and fibers typeshas significant influence on colour values Printingwith Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) colorantwith different mordants resulted in different shadesranging from yellowish brown deep brown reddishbrown and gray shades to olive black The 119870119878 valueshowed that mordants namely CuSO
4and FeSO
4
exhibited high colour absorption (119870119878) regardless ofthe nature of material used
(ii) All the printed samples have good to excellent washrubbing and light fastness properties regardless of thenature of materials mordants and thickeners usedBoth untreated and myrobalan treated jutecottonfabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferrous
Journal of Textiles 7
sulphate mordants showed excellent all round color-fastness properties
(iii) Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thick-ening agent and considering the cost availability andethical issue guar gum is the best choice as guar isa native plant abundantly available and cheap unlikealbumin
It can be concluded from the present investigation that thenatural colorant Rheum emodi can be successfully employedto print jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics
Conflict of Interests
The author declares that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper
Acknowledgment
The author expresses Sincere thanks toMs Ankita Saxena forher encourage and help to complete this minor project
References
[1] S P Mishra Text Book of Fiber Science and Technology NewageInternational 2005
[2] B N Bandyopadhyay and N R Salaskar ldquoProspects of juterdquoIndian Textile Journal vol 12 no 5 pp 12ndash25 1997
[3] T Bechtold and R Mussak Eds Natural Colorants-QuinoidNaphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes JohnWiley and Sons2009
[4] M S AkhtarM AminM Ahmad andAlamgeer ldquoHepatopro-tective effect of Rheum emodi roots (Revand chini) and Akseer-e-Jigar against paracetamol-induced hepatotoxicity in ratsrdquoEthnobotanical Leaflets vol 13 pp 310ndash315 2009
[5] D Das S R Maulik and S C Bhattacharya ldquoColouration ofwool and silk with Rheum emodirdquo Indian Journal of Fibre andTextile Research vol 33 no 2 pp 163ndash170 2008
[6] A K Samanta and A Konar ldquoDyeing of Textiles with NaturalDyesrdquo in Natural Dyes P A Kumbasar Ed pp 30ndash56 InTech2011
[7] M Dressler P Fischer and E J Windhab ldquoRheological char-acterization and modeling of aqueous guar gum solutionsrdquo inProceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Food Rheol-ogy and Structure pp 249ndash253 2002
[8] ldquoThe Columbia Electronic Encyclopediardquo Columbia UniversityPress 2013 httpcupcolumbiaedu
[9] ldquoApplications Notes insight on Color CIE Llowastalowastblowast Color ScalerdquoHunterLab vol 8 no 7 pp 1ndash4 2008
[10] P B Tayade and R V Adivarekar ldquoDyeing of silk fabric withCuminum Cyminum L as a source of natural dyerdquo InternationalJournal of ChemTech Research vol 5 no 2 pp 699ndash706 2013
[11] N S Allen ldquoPhotofading mechanisms of dyes in solution andpolymer mediardquo Review of Progress in Coloration and RelatedTopics vol 17 no 1 pp 61ndash71 1987
(1) JuteCotton Union Fabric The printing pastes forjutecotton union fabric were prepared using the followingrecipe
Rheum emodi dye powder 10 gmglycerin 25 gmstock paste 875 gmtotal weight of the paste 100 gm
(2) JuteWool Union Fabric The printing pastes for jutewoolunion fabric were prepared using the following recipe
Rheum emodi dye powder 10 gmglycerin 25 gmacetic acid 5 gmstock paste 825 gmtotal weight of the paste 100 gm
The print paste was continuously stirred by a mechanicalstirrer
226 Printing Procedure Printing was carried out on bothtannin pretreated fabrics and untreated fabrics using the flatscreen technique Printed samples were then dried The sam-ples were steamed in a saturated atmosphere for 30 minutesin a star steamer Printed samples were washed with waterand then dried in air (see Table 2)
23 Measurement of Color Strength The printed sampleswere evaluated for the depth of the prints by light reflectancemeasurements using a JAYPAK 4802 colourmatching systemat D65 illuminate10Deg Observer The color strength (119870119878value) was assessed using the Kubelka-Munk equation
119870
119878=(1 minus 119877)
2
2119877 (1)
where 119877 is the reflectance at specific wavelengths 119870 is theabsorption coefficient and 119878 is the scattering coefficient
In general higher the 119870119878 values the higher the depth ofthe colour on the fabric
The colour of printed fabric samples was alsomeasured interms of CIELAB colour space namely color parameters 119871lowast(+ lightness minus darkness) 119886lowast (+ red minus green) and 119887lowast (+ yel-low minus blue) by using Computer ColourMatching System [910] The total colour deference Δ119864lowast was also evaluated usingthe following equation
Δ119864lowast
119886119887= [(Δ119871
lowast)2
+ (Δ119886lowast)2
+ (Δ119887lowast)2
]12
(2)
where
119871lowast= 116(119884
119884119899
)
13
minus 16
119886lowast= 500 [(
119883
119883119899
)
13
minus (119884
119884119899
)
13
]
119887lowast= 200 [(
119884
119884119899
)
13
minus (119885
119885119899
)
13
]
(3)
24 Tests for Fastness Properties The fastness properties ofthe printed samples towards washing rubbing and light wereassessed using standard methods
Evaluation of color fastness to washing was determinedas per IS 764ndash1984method using a Sasmira launder-O-meterand following IS-3 wash fastness method The wash fastnessrating was assessed using grey scale as per ISO-05-A02 (lossof shade depth) and ISO-105-AO3 (extent of staining) Colourfastness to rubbing (dry and wet) was assessed as per IS 766ndash1984 method using a manually operated Paramount crockmeter Colour fastness to light was determined as per IS2454ndash1984 method The sample was exposed to xenon lightin a Paramount digiLIGHT fade-O-meter along with theeight blue wool standards (BS 1006 BOI 1978) The fading
4 Journal of Textiles
Table 3 Yielding of colours with different mordants
Sample code Color obtainedUJC1 Yellow ochreUJC2 Light brownUJC3 BrownUJC4 Gray (light grayish ash)MJC1 Brown (cinnamon-copper shade)MJC2 Brown (dark cinnamon shade)MJC3 Gray-blackUJW1 Yellowish brownUJW2 Deep brownUJW3 Deep brown (russet)UJW4 GrayMJW1 Brownish yellowMJW2 Deep brown (russet)MJW3 Deep brownUJC11015840 Earth yellowUJC21015840 Deep brownUJC31015840 Deep brown (brown-nose)UJC41015840 Deep brown (seal brown)MJC11015840 Golden-brownMJC21015840 BrownMJC31015840 Yellowish brownUJW11015840 Yellowish brownUJW21015840 Dark goldenrodUJW31015840 Dark goldenrodUJW41015840 Coffee brownMJW11015840 Brownish yellowMJW21015840 Grayish brownMJW31015840 Olive black
of each sample was observed against the fading of blue woolstandards (1ndash8)
3 Results and Discussion
The 119870119878 value (Figures 2 and 3) indicates that mordantsnamely CuSO
4and FeSO
4exhibited high colour absorption
(119870119878) regardless of the nature of material used whichmay beattributed to their ability to form strong coordination com-plexes with the dye molecules Furthermore the high colourabsorption and colour difference (Tables 3 and 4) to a certainextent may be due to the changes in scattering because ofthe chemical interactions between fibers and tannin andormetallic salts along with the additional inherent colour inputof the corresponding mordants
Jute-wool union printed fabrics pretreated withmyrobalan showed comparatively higher 119870119878 values thanthe untreated fabrics furthermore the 119870119878 values in case ofjute-wool union fabrics were in most cases higher than theircorresponding samples of jute-cotton union fabrics exceptionbeing jute-cotton untreated fabric particularly UJC21015840 andUJC31015840 printed using albumin as thickening agent whichyielded darker and shining shades This may be due to
10
8
6
4
2
0
Colour strength (KS)
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJC
+ al
bum
in
UJC
+ g
uar g
um
MJC
+ al
bum
in
MJC
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 2 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutecotton union fabrics
Colour strength (KS)
10
8
6
4
2
0
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJW
+ al
bum
in
UJW
+ g
uar g
um
MJW
+ al
bum
in
MJW
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 3 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutewool union fabrics
the fact that myrobalan contains natural colour as well asnatural tannin and in addition to that in case of protein fibersuch as wool three types of bonds namely hydrogen bondionic bond and covalent bond are formed However in caseof cellulosic fabrics the tannin could form only two types ofbonds that is hydrogen bond and covalent bond Moreoverthe penetration of mordant and colour in wool is easier thanthat of cellulose fibers as the fiber is porous softer andmore elastic hence higher colour absorption occurs in case
of myrobalan treated jute-wool union printed fabricsRegarding jute-cotton untreated fabric yielding darker shadeswith albumin as thickening agent it may be due to the factthat albumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as amordant thus increasing the colour absorption for a numberof colors despite that guar gum as a thickening agent is alsonearly as efficient as albumin Furthermore consideringthe cost availability and ethical issue guar gum is the bestchoice as guar is a native plant abundantly available themost economical and can be used for most types of printingowing to its stability in all pH levels and therefore suitableprint-paste thickener unlike albumin
Colour analysis in terms of lightness (Δ119871lowast) and theCartesian coordinates Δ119886lowast and Δ119887lowast showed that the overallprincipal colours yielded on jute-cotton and jute-wool unionfabrics were ranged from yellow ochre yellowish brown deepbrown grey and coffee to olive black and affected by the typeofmordant usedThe addition of amordant to an appropriatecolorant results in sudden change in color owing to theincorporation of the metal atom which has low energy levelsinto the delocalized electron system of the dye subsequentlylowering of the overall energyThe absorbance of the hue andthus its color is related to this phenomenon
On the 119871lowast plane the measurement difference of valueswas positive in case of a few samples printed with alummordant (UJC2 MJC1 UJW11015840 and UJW21015840) correspondingto lighter shades whereas the Δ119871lowast values were found tobe negative in case of all other samples mordanted withalum copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate corresponding todarker shades It is evident that the type of shades producedand the level of absorption of colorant were affected by usingthe different mordants and pretreatment with myrobalanwhose chemical reaction with the natural colorant dependedon the unique structures of the colour components and on thestrength of the tannin andor metal-colorant coordinationcomplex formed during the printing process
Tables 5 and 6 revealed the fastness properties of theprinted samples Both untreated and myrobalan treated juteunion fabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferroussulphate mordants showed excellent colorfastness propertiesFurthermore the overall fastness properties such as washingrubbing and light for all mordanted samples were very satis-factory (rating lies between good to excellent) regardless ofthe nature of materials mordants and thickeners usedThusit is evident that the complexmixture of anthraquinone struc-tures of Rheum emodi is capable of forming stable complexeswith the metal ions resulting in improved colourfastnessto washing rubbing and lightfastness Besides presence ofanthraquinone structure as is found inRheum emodi shows ingeneral an increased resistance to light fading [11] Moreoveralbumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as fixing agentand hence further enhances the fastness properties of juteunion fabrics
4 Conclusions
(i) The choice of mordants thickeners and fibers typeshas significant influence on colour values Printingwith Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) colorantwith different mordants resulted in different shadesranging from yellowish brown deep brown reddishbrown and gray shades to olive black The 119870119878 valueshowed that mordants namely CuSO
4and FeSO
4
exhibited high colour absorption (119870119878) regardless ofthe nature of material used
(ii) All the printed samples have good to excellent washrubbing and light fastness properties regardless of thenature of materials mordants and thickeners usedBoth untreated and myrobalan treated jutecottonfabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferrous
Journal of Textiles 7
sulphate mordants showed excellent all round color-fastness properties
(iii) Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thick-ening agent and considering the cost availability andethical issue guar gum is the best choice as guar isa native plant abundantly available and cheap unlikealbumin
It can be concluded from the present investigation that thenatural colorant Rheum emodi can be successfully employedto print jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics
Conflict of Interests
The author declares that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper
Acknowledgment
The author expresses Sincere thanks toMs Ankita Saxena forher encourage and help to complete this minor project
References
[1] S P Mishra Text Book of Fiber Science and Technology NewageInternational 2005
[2] B N Bandyopadhyay and N R Salaskar ldquoProspects of juterdquoIndian Textile Journal vol 12 no 5 pp 12ndash25 1997
[3] T Bechtold and R Mussak Eds Natural Colorants-QuinoidNaphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes JohnWiley and Sons2009
[4] M S AkhtarM AminM Ahmad andAlamgeer ldquoHepatopro-tective effect of Rheum emodi roots (Revand chini) and Akseer-e-Jigar against paracetamol-induced hepatotoxicity in ratsrdquoEthnobotanical Leaflets vol 13 pp 310ndash315 2009
[5] D Das S R Maulik and S C Bhattacharya ldquoColouration ofwool and silk with Rheum emodirdquo Indian Journal of Fibre andTextile Research vol 33 no 2 pp 163ndash170 2008
[6] A K Samanta and A Konar ldquoDyeing of Textiles with NaturalDyesrdquo in Natural Dyes P A Kumbasar Ed pp 30ndash56 InTech2011
[7] M Dressler P Fischer and E J Windhab ldquoRheological char-acterization and modeling of aqueous guar gum solutionsrdquo inProceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Food Rheol-ogy and Structure pp 249ndash253 2002
[8] ldquoThe Columbia Electronic Encyclopediardquo Columbia UniversityPress 2013 httpcupcolumbiaedu
[9] ldquoApplications Notes insight on Color CIE Llowastalowastblowast Color ScalerdquoHunterLab vol 8 no 7 pp 1ndash4 2008
[10] P B Tayade and R V Adivarekar ldquoDyeing of silk fabric withCuminum Cyminum L as a source of natural dyerdquo InternationalJournal of ChemTech Research vol 5 no 2 pp 699ndash706 2013
[11] N S Allen ldquoPhotofading mechanisms of dyes in solution andpolymer mediardquo Review of Progress in Coloration and RelatedTopics vol 17 no 1 pp 61ndash71 1987
Table 3 Yielding of colours with different mordants
Sample code Color obtainedUJC1 Yellow ochreUJC2 Light brownUJC3 BrownUJC4 Gray (light grayish ash)MJC1 Brown (cinnamon-copper shade)MJC2 Brown (dark cinnamon shade)MJC3 Gray-blackUJW1 Yellowish brownUJW2 Deep brownUJW3 Deep brown (russet)UJW4 GrayMJW1 Brownish yellowMJW2 Deep brown (russet)MJW3 Deep brownUJC11015840 Earth yellowUJC21015840 Deep brownUJC31015840 Deep brown (brown-nose)UJC41015840 Deep brown (seal brown)MJC11015840 Golden-brownMJC21015840 BrownMJC31015840 Yellowish brownUJW11015840 Yellowish brownUJW21015840 Dark goldenrodUJW31015840 Dark goldenrodUJW41015840 Coffee brownMJW11015840 Brownish yellowMJW21015840 Grayish brownMJW31015840 Olive black
of each sample was observed against the fading of blue woolstandards (1ndash8)
3 Results and Discussion
The 119870119878 value (Figures 2 and 3) indicates that mordantsnamely CuSO
4and FeSO
4exhibited high colour absorption
(119870119878) regardless of the nature of material used whichmay beattributed to their ability to form strong coordination com-plexes with the dye molecules Furthermore the high colourabsorption and colour difference (Tables 3 and 4) to a certainextent may be due to the changes in scattering because ofthe chemical interactions between fibers and tannin andormetallic salts along with the additional inherent colour inputof the corresponding mordants
Jute-wool union printed fabrics pretreated withmyrobalan showed comparatively higher 119870119878 values thanthe untreated fabrics furthermore the 119870119878 values in case ofjute-wool union fabrics were in most cases higher than theircorresponding samples of jute-cotton union fabrics exceptionbeing jute-cotton untreated fabric particularly UJC21015840 andUJC31015840 printed using albumin as thickening agent whichyielded darker and shining shades This may be due to
10
8
6
4
2
0
Colour strength (KS)
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJC
+ al
bum
in
UJC
+ g
uar g
um
MJC
+ al
bum
in
MJC
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 2 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutecotton union fabrics
Colour strength (KS)
10
8
6
4
2
0
AlumCopper sulphateFerrous sulphate
UJW
+ al
bum
in
UJW
+ g
uar g
um
MJW
+ al
bum
in
MJW
+ g
uar g
um
Figure 3 Effect of mordants and thickeners on color strength ofjutewool union fabrics
the fact that myrobalan contains natural colour as well asnatural tannin and in addition to that in case of protein fibersuch as wool three types of bonds namely hydrogen bondionic bond and covalent bond are formed However in caseof cellulosic fabrics the tannin could form only two types ofbonds that is hydrogen bond and covalent bond Moreoverthe penetration of mordant and colour in wool is easier thanthat of cellulose fibers as the fiber is porous softer andmore elastic hence higher colour absorption occurs in case
of myrobalan treated jute-wool union printed fabricsRegarding jute-cotton untreated fabric yielding darker shadeswith albumin as thickening agent it may be due to the factthat albumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as amordant thus increasing the colour absorption for a numberof colors despite that guar gum as a thickening agent is alsonearly as efficient as albumin Furthermore consideringthe cost availability and ethical issue guar gum is the bestchoice as guar is a native plant abundantly available themost economical and can be used for most types of printingowing to its stability in all pH levels and therefore suitableprint-paste thickener unlike albumin
Colour analysis in terms of lightness (Δ119871lowast) and theCartesian coordinates Δ119886lowast and Δ119887lowast showed that the overallprincipal colours yielded on jute-cotton and jute-wool unionfabrics were ranged from yellow ochre yellowish brown deepbrown grey and coffee to olive black and affected by the typeofmordant usedThe addition of amordant to an appropriatecolorant results in sudden change in color owing to theincorporation of the metal atom which has low energy levelsinto the delocalized electron system of the dye subsequentlylowering of the overall energyThe absorbance of the hue andthus its color is related to this phenomenon
On the 119871lowast plane the measurement difference of valueswas positive in case of a few samples printed with alummordant (UJC2 MJC1 UJW11015840 and UJW21015840) correspondingto lighter shades whereas the Δ119871lowast values were found tobe negative in case of all other samples mordanted withalum copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate corresponding todarker shades It is evident that the type of shades producedand the level of absorption of colorant were affected by usingthe different mordants and pretreatment with myrobalanwhose chemical reaction with the natural colorant dependedon the unique structures of the colour components and on thestrength of the tannin andor metal-colorant coordinationcomplex formed during the printing process
Tables 5 and 6 revealed the fastness properties of theprinted samples Both untreated and myrobalan treated juteunion fabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferroussulphate mordants showed excellent colorfastness propertiesFurthermore the overall fastness properties such as washingrubbing and light for all mordanted samples were very satis-factory (rating lies between good to excellent) regardless ofthe nature of materials mordants and thickeners usedThusit is evident that the complexmixture of anthraquinone struc-tures of Rheum emodi is capable of forming stable complexeswith the metal ions resulting in improved colourfastnessto washing rubbing and lightfastness Besides presence ofanthraquinone structure as is found inRheum emodi shows ingeneral an increased resistance to light fading [11] Moreoveralbumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as fixing agentand hence further enhances the fastness properties of juteunion fabrics
4 Conclusions
(i) The choice of mordants thickeners and fibers typeshas significant influence on colour values Printingwith Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) colorantwith different mordants resulted in different shadesranging from yellowish brown deep brown reddishbrown and gray shades to olive black The 119870119878 valueshowed that mordants namely CuSO
4and FeSO
4
exhibited high colour absorption (119870119878) regardless ofthe nature of material used
(ii) All the printed samples have good to excellent washrubbing and light fastness properties regardless of thenature of materials mordants and thickeners usedBoth untreated and myrobalan treated jutecottonfabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferrous
Journal of Textiles 7
sulphate mordants showed excellent all round color-fastness properties
(iii) Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thick-ening agent and considering the cost availability andethical issue guar gum is the best choice as guar isa native plant abundantly available and cheap unlikealbumin
It can be concluded from the present investigation that thenatural colorant Rheum emodi can be successfully employedto print jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics
Conflict of Interests
The author declares that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper
Acknowledgment
The author expresses Sincere thanks toMs Ankita Saxena forher encourage and help to complete this minor project
References
[1] S P Mishra Text Book of Fiber Science and Technology NewageInternational 2005
[2] B N Bandyopadhyay and N R Salaskar ldquoProspects of juterdquoIndian Textile Journal vol 12 no 5 pp 12ndash25 1997
[3] T Bechtold and R Mussak Eds Natural Colorants-QuinoidNaphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes JohnWiley and Sons2009
[4] M S AkhtarM AminM Ahmad andAlamgeer ldquoHepatopro-tective effect of Rheum emodi roots (Revand chini) and Akseer-e-Jigar against paracetamol-induced hepatotoxicity in ratsrdquoEthnobotanical Leaflets vol 13 pp 310ndash315 2009
[5] D Das S R Maulik and S C Bhattacharya ldquoColouration ofwool and silk with Rheum emodirdquo Indian Journal of Fibre andTextile Research vol 33 no 2 pp 163ndash170 2008
[6] A K Samanta and A Konar ldquoDyeing of Textiles with NaturalDyesrdquo in Natural Dyes P A Kumbasar Ed pp 30ndash56 InTech2011
[7] M Dressler P Fischer and E J Windhab ldquoRheological char-acterization and modeling of aqueous guar gum solutionsrdquo inProceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Food Rheol-ogy and Structure pp 249ndash253 2002
[8] ldquoThe Columbia Electronic Encyclopediardquo Columbia UniversityPress 2013 httpcupcolumbiaedu
[9] ldquoApplications Notes insight on Color CIE Llowastalowastblowast Color ScalerdquoHunterLab vol 8 no 7 pp 1ndash4 2008
[10] P B Tayade and R V Adivarekar ldquoDyeing of silk fabric withCuminum Cyminum L as a source of natural dyerdquo InternationalJournal of ChemTech Research vol 5 no 2 pp 699ndash706 2013
[11] N S Allen ldquoPhotofading mechanisms of dyes in solution andpolymer mediardquo Review of Progress in Coloration and RelatedTopics vol 17 no 1 pp 61ndash71 1987
of myrobalan treated jute-wool union printed fabricsRegarding jute-cotton untreated fabric yielding darker shadeswith albumin as thickening agent it may be due to the factthat albumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as amordant thus increasing the colour absorption for a numberof colors despite that guar gum as a thickening agent is alsonearly as efficient as albumin Furthermore consideringthe cost availability and ethical issue guar gum is the bestchoice as guar is a native plant abundantly available themost economical and can be used for most types of printingowing to its stability in all pH levels and therefore suitableprint-paste thickener unlike albumin
Colour analysis in terms of lightness (Δ119871lowast) and theCartesian coordinates Δ119886lowast and Δ119887lowast showed that the overallprincipal colours yielded on jute-cotton and jute-wool unionfabrics were ranged from yellow ochre yellowish brown deepbrown grey and coffee to olive black and affected by the typeofmordant usedThe addition of amordant to an appropriatecolorant results in sudden change in color owing to theincorporation of the metal atom which has low energy levelsinto the delocalized electron system of the dye subsequentlylowering of the overall energyThe absorbance of the hue andthus its color is related to this phenomenon
On the 119871lowast plane the measurement difference of valueswas positive in case of a few samples printed with alummordant (UJC2 MJC1 UJW11015840 and UJW21015840) correspondingto lighter shades whereas the Δ119871lowast values were found tobe negative in case of all other samples mordanted withalum copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate corresponding todarker shades It is evident that the type of shades producedand the level of absorption of colorant were affected by usingthe different mordants and pretreatment with myrobalanwhose chemical reaction with the natural colorant dependedon the unique structures of the colour components and on thestrength of the tannin andor metal-colorant coordinationcomplex formed during the printing process
Tables 5 and 6 revealed the fastness properties of theprinted samples Both untreated and myrobalan treated juteunion fabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferroussulphate mordants showed excellent colorfastness propertiesFurthermore the overall fastness properties such as washingrubbing and light for all mordanted samples were very satis-factory (rating lies between good to excellent) regardless ofthe nature of materials mordants and thickeners usedThusit is evident that the complexmixture of anthraquinone struc-tures of Rheum emodi is capable of forming stable complexeswith the metal ions resulting in improved colourfastnessto washing rubbing and lightfastness Besides presence ofanthraquinone structure as is found inRheum emodi shows ingeneral an increased resistance to light fading [11] Moreoveralbumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as fixing agentand hence further enhances the fastness properties of juteunion fabrics
4 Conclusions
(i) The choice of mordants thickeners and fibers typeshas significant influence on colour values Printingwith Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) colorantwith different mordants resulted in different shadesranging from yellowish brown deep brown reddishbrown and gray shades to olive black The 119870119878 valueshowed that mordants namely CuSO
4and FeSO
4
exhibited high colour absorption (119870119878) regardless ofthe nature of material used
(ii) All the printed samples have good to excellent washrubbing and light fastness properties regardless of thenature of materials mordants and thickeners usedBoth untreated and myrobalan treated jutecottonfabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferrous
Journal of Textiles 7
sulphate mordants showed excellent all round color-fastness properties
(iii) Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thick-ening agent and considering the cost availability andethical issue guar gum is the best choice as guar isa native plant abundantly available and cheap unlikealbumin
It can be concluded from the present investigation that thenatural colorant Rheum emodi can be successfully employedto print jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics
Conflict of Interests
The author declares that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper
Acknowledgment
The author expresses Sincere thanks toMs Ankita Saxena forher encourage and help to complete this minor project
References
[1] S P Mishra Text Book of Fiber Science and Technology NewageInternational 2005
[2] B N Bandyopadhyay and N R Salaskar ldquoProspects of juterdquoIndian Textile Journal vol 12 no 5 pp 12ndash25 1997
[3] T Bechtold and R Mussak Eds Natural Colorants-QuinoidNaphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes JohnWiley and Sons2009
[4] M S AkhtarM AminM Ahmad andAlamgeer ldquoHepatopro-tective effect of Rheum emodi roots (Revand chini) and Akseer-e-Jigar against paracetamol-induced hepatotoxicity in ratsrdquoEthnobotanical Leaflets vol 13 pp 310ndash315 2009
[5] D Das S R Maulik and S C Bhattacharya ldquoColouration ofwool and silk with Rheum emodirdquo Indian Journal of Fibre andTextile Research vol 33 no 2 pp 163ndash170 2008
[6] A K Samanta and A Konar ldquoDyeing of Textiles with NaturalDyesrdquo in Natural Dyes P A Kumbasar Ed pp 30ndash56 InTech2011
[7] M Dressler P Fischer and E J Windhab ldquoRheological char-acterization and modeling of aqueous guar gum solutionsrdquo inProceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Food Rheol-ogy and Structure pp 249ndash253 2002
[8] ldquoThe Columbia Electronic Encyclopediardquo Columbia UniversityPress 2013 httpcupcolumbiaedu
[9] ldquoApplications Notes insight on Color CIE Llowastalowastblowast Color ScalerdquoHunterLab vol 8 no 7 pp 1ndash4 2008
[10] P B Tayade and R V Adivarekar ldquoDyeing of silk fabric withCuminum Cyminum L as a source of natural dyerdquo InternationalJournal of ChemTech Research vol 5 no 2 pp 699ndash706 2013
[11] N S Allen ldquoPhotofading mechanisms of dyes in solution andpolymer mediardquo Review of Progress in Coloration and RelatedTopics vol 17 no 1 pp 61ndash71 1987
of myrobalan treated jute-wool union printed fabricsRegarding jute-cotton untreated fabric yielding darker shadeswith albumin as thickening agent it may be due to the factthat albumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as amordant thus increasing the colour absorption for a numberof colors despite that guar gum as a thickening agent is alsonearly as efficient as albumin Furthermore consideringthe cost availability and ethical issue guar gum is the bestchoice as guar is a native plant abundantly available themost economical and can be used for most types of printingowing to its stability in all pH levels and therefore suitableprint-paste thickener unlike albumin
Colour analysis in terms of lightness (Δ119871lowast) and theCartesian coordinates Δ119886lowast and Δ119887lowast showed that the overallprincipal colours yielded on jute-cotton and jute-wool unionfabrics were ranged from yellow ochre yellowish brown deepbrown grey and coffee to olive black and affected by the typeofmordant usedThe addition of amordant to an appropriatecolorant results in sudden change in color owing to theincorporation of the metal atom which has low energy levelsinto the delocalized electron system of the dye subsequentlylowering of the overall energyThe absorbance of the hue andthus its color is related to this phenomenon
On the 119871lowast plane the measurement difference of valueswas positive in case of a few samples printed with alummordant (UJC2 MJC1 UJW11015840 and UJW21015840) correspondingto lighter shades whereas the Δ119871lowast values were found tobe negative in case of all other samples mordanted withalum copper sulphate and ferrous sulphate corresponding todarker shades It is evident that the type of shades producedand the level of absorption of colorant were affected by usingthe different mordants and pretreatment with myrobalanwhose chemical reaction with the natural colorant dependedon the unique structures of the colour components and on thestrength of the tannin andor metal-colorant coordinationcomplex formed during the printing process
Tables 5 and 6 revealed the fastness properties of theprinted samples Both untreated and myrobalan treated juteunion fabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferroussulphate mordants showed excellent colorfastness propertiesFurthermore the overall fastness properties such as washingrubbing and light for all mordanted samples were very satis-factory (rating lies between good to excellent) regardless ofthe nature of materials mordants and thickeners usedThusit is evident that the complexmixture of anthraquinone struc-tures of Rheum emodi is capable of forming stable complexeswith the metal ions resulting in improved colourfastnessto washing rubbing and lightfastness Besides presence ofanthraquinone structure as is found inRheum emodi shows ingeneral an increased resistance to light fading [11] Moreoveralbumin being a heat-coagulating protein acts as fixing agentand hence further enhances the fastness properties of juteunion fabrics
4 Conclusions
(i) The choice of mordants thickeners and fibers typeshas significant influence on colour values Printingwith Rheum emodi (Himalayan rhubarb) colorantwith different mordants resulted in different shadesranging from yellowish brown deep brown reddishbrown and gray shades to olive black The 119870119878 valueshowed that mordants namely CuSO
4and FeSO
4
exhibited high colour absorption (119870119878) regardless ofthe nature of material used
(ii) All the printed samples have good to excellent washrubbing and light fastness properties regardless of thenature of materials mordants and thickeners usedBoth untreated and myrobalan treated jutecottonfabrics printed with copper sulphate and ferrous
Journal of Textiles 7
sulphate mordants showed excellent all round color-fastness properties
(iii) Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thick-ening agent and considering the cost availability andethical issue guar gum is the best choice as guar isa native plant abundantly available and cheap unlikealbumin
It can be concluded from the present investigation that thenatural colorant Rheum emodi can be successfully employedto print jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics
Conflict of Interests
The author declares that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper
Acknowledgment
The author expresses Sincere thanks toMs Ankita Saxena forher encourage and help to complete this minor project
References
[1] S P Mishra Text Book of Fiber Science and Technology NewageInternational 2005
[2] B N Bandyopadhyay and N R Salaskar ldquoProspects of juterdquoIndian Textile Journal vol 12 no 5 pp 12ndash25 1997
[3] T Bechtold and R Mussak Eds Natural Colorants-QuinoidNaphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes JohnWiley and Sons2009
[4] M S AkhtarM AminM Ahmad andAlamgeer ldquoHepatopro-tective effect of Rheum emodi roots (Revand chini) and Akseer-e-Jigar against paracetamol-induced hepatotoxicity in ratsrdquoEthnobotanical Leaflets vol 13 pp 310ndash315 2009
[5] D Das S R Maulik and S C Bhattacharya ldquoColouration ofwool and silk with Rheum emodirdquo Indian Journal of Fibre andTextile Research vol 33 no 2 pp 163ndash170 2008
[6] A K Samanta and A Konar ldquoDyeing of Textiles with NaturalDyesrdquo in Natural Dyes P A Kumbasar Ed pp 30ndash56 InTech2011
[7] M Dressler P Fischer and E J Windhab ldquoRheological char-acterization and modeling of aqueous guar gum solutionsrdquo inProceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Food Rheol-ogy and Structure pp 249ndash253 2002
[8] ldquoThe Columbia Electronic Encyclopediardquo Columbia UniversityPress 2013 httpcupcolumbiaedu
[9] ldquoApplications Notes insight on Color CIE Llowastalowastblowast Color ScalerdquoHunterLab vol 8 no 7 pp 1ndash4 2008
[10] P B Tayade and R V Adivarekar ldquoDyeing of silk fabric withCuminum Cyminum L as a source of natural dyerdquo InternationalJournal of ChemTech Research vol 5 no 2 pp 699ndash706 2013
[11] N S Allen ldquoPhotofading mechanisms of dyes in solution andpolymer mediardquo Review of Progress in Coloration and RelatedTopics vol 17 no 1 pp 61ndash71 1987
sulphate mordants showed excellent all round color-fastness properties
(iii) Guar gum is closely at par with albumin as a thick-ening agent and considering the cost availability andethical issue guar gum is the best choice as guar isa native plant abundantly available and cheap unlikealbumin
It can be concluded from the present investigation that thenatural colorant Rheum emodi can be successfully employedto print jute-cotton and jute-wool union fabrics
Conflict of Interests
The author declares that there is no conflict of interestsregarding the publication of this paper
Acknowledgment
The author expresses Sincere thanks toMs Ankita Saxena forher encourage and help to complete this minor project
References
[1] S P Mishra Text Book of Fiber Science and Technology NewageInternational 2005
[2] B N Bandyopadhyay and N R Salaskar ldquoProspects of juterdquoIndian Textile Journal vol 12 no 5 pp 12ndash25 1997
[3] T Bechtold and R Mussak Eds Natural Colorants-QuinoidNaphthoquinoid and Anthraquinoid Dyes JohnWiley and Sons2009
[4] M S AkhtarM AminM Ahmad andAlamgeer ldquoHepatopro-tective effect of Rheum emodi roots (Revand chini) and Akseer-e-Jigar against paracetamol-induced hepatotoxicity in ratsrdquoEthnobotanical Leaflets vol 13 pp 310ndash315 2009
[5] D Das S R Maulik and S C Bhattacharya ldquoColouration ofwool and silk with Rheum emodirdquo Indian Journal of Fibre andTextile Research vol 33 no 2 pp 163ndash170 2008
[6] A K Samanta and A Konar ldquoDyeing of Textiles with NaturalDyesrdquo in Natural Dyes P A Kumbasar Ed pp 30ndash56 InTech2011
[7] M Dressler P Fischer and E J Windhab ldquoRheological char-acterization and modeling of aqueous guar gum solutionsrdquo inProceedings of the 3rd International Symposium on Food Rheol-ogy and Structure pp 249ndash253 2002
[8] ldquoThe Columbia Electronic Encyclopediardquo Columbia UniversityPress 2013 httpcupcolumbiaedu
[9] ldquoApplications Notes insight on Color CIE Llowastalowastblowast Color ScalerdquoHunterLab vol 8 no 7 pp 1ndash4 2008
[10] P B Tayade and R V Adivarekar ldquoDyeing of silk fabric withCuminum Cyminum L as a source of natural dyerdquo InternationalJournal of ChemTech Research vol 5 no 2 pp 699ndash706 2013
[11] N S Allen ldquoPhotofading mechanisms of dyes in solution andpolymer mediardquo Review of Progress in Coloration and RelatedTopics vol 17 no 1 pp 61ndash71 1987
