RESPONSIBLE MATERIALS FOCUS: COTTON’S ENVIRONMENTAL … · 2020-05-07 · Key Performance...

RESPONSIBLE MATERIALS FOCUS: COTTON’S ENVIRONMENTAL PROGRESS

Agenda

• Cotton: From past to present• Cotton as food• Cotton Life Cycle Assessment• Microfiber research • U.S. cotton industry 10 Year sustainability goals• Be part of the solution

30 Years of Reduced Environmental Impact

Field to Market: Keystone Alliance for Sustainable Agriculture 2016 https://fieldtomarket.org/national-indicators-report-2016/

Land Use WaterSoil Loss Energy GHG

31% 44% 82% 54% 30%

Unmanned Arial Vehicles: Drones

Drone Imaging

Example of robotic weeder

Water Repellent STORM COTTON™ Technology

STORM COTTONTM finish dries 40% faster than untreated cotton

Optimization of Sweat Hiding Technology

• WICKING WINDOWSTM Technology• Enable sweat hiding technology

on lightweight fabrics– 3.94Osy (134gsm) woven shirting

• Two step finishing process• Pad/Dry• Print

PUREPRESS™

• Durable press• Formaldehyde-free• High performance

Up to 14X better abrasion resistanceUp to 27% improvement in tensile strengthUp to 27% improvement in tear strength

Cotton is a valuable food source

Food and Fiber and More

400 lbs Co-Product2,000 lbs Fiber2,800 lbs Seed

5,200 Pounds of “Seed Cotton”

Cottonseed Oil

Pets & Horses

Pigs & Chickens

Cattle

Aquaculture

Human

Highest Efficiency of Utilization

Lowest Efficiency of

Utilization

Highest Value

Lowest Value

Cottonseed Protein Value and Efficiency of Utilization

normal low-gossypol

Cottonseed: A New Food

Pets & Horses

Pigs & Chickens

Cattle

Aquaculture

Human

Highest Efficiency of Utilization

Lowest Efficiency of

Utilization

Highest Value

Lowest Value

Cottonseed Protein Value and Efficiency of Utilization

Ultra-Low Gossypol Seed

World Market and Food Security Analysis

• Duke Master’s Project• 4 students• 2018-2019

• Market analysis• Food security & supply• World market value

• Environmental assessment• Product displacement

Potential for cotton seed to meet the protein needs of 600 million people

Cotton Apparel Life Cycle Assessment

LCA Goal, Scope Functional Units

Average Cotton Fiber

Global Average Knit Single Jersey

Fabric Manufacture

Garment Use

Garment End of Life

Emissions to Air, Water, and Soil (Waste)

Raw Materials, Energy, Fuels, Water

Global Average Woven Twill Fabric

Manufacture

1000 kg Knit Fabric

1000kg Woven Fabric

1000 kg Fiber

Cotton Cultivation

Cut &Sew

Garment Use

Garment

End of Life

Cut &Sew

3953 Knit t-shirts used & disposed

1796 Woven casual pants used & disposed

- -

Gate-to-Gate BoundaryCradle-to-Grave BoundaryFunctional Units

USA

Cotton CultivationAustralia

Cotton CultivationChina

Cotton CultivationIndia

Cradle-to-Gate Fiber Gate-to-Grave GarmentsGate-to-Gate Fabric

Garment Use

Garment End of Life

Global Average

Manufacture1000kg Knit Fabric

Knit Single Pique Fabric

2780 Knit casual collared shirts used & disposed

Cut &Sew

Life Cycle Assessment Overview

Overall Results for A Knit Collared Shirt

GlobalWarming

Energy Water Quality

Water Consumption

Textile Phase Details – Collared Knit Shirt

GlobalWarming


Water Consumption

Agricultural Phase Details

GlobalWarming


Water Consumption

Use and End of Life (EoL) – Knit Collared Shirt

GlobalWarming


Water Consumption

Unintended Consequences of Laundering

Sources and Distribution of Microplastics

http://www.adventurescientists.org/microplastics.html

Microfibers in the News

Cotton

Condition 1 Without Detergent at

44℃

Rayon

Polyester

Cotton/Polyester

Fibers Removed from Accelerated Wash

Preliminary research from North Carolina State University, Dr. Richard Venditti

EXPERIMENTAL DESIGNAerobic Biodegradation of Textile Spun Yarns in Aquatic Environments

31

Sam

ples

Blank

100% Cotton

100% Polyester

100% Rayon

50%/50% Polyester/Cotton

ReferenceMicrocrystalline Cellulose

Inoculum

Lake Water

Lake Raleigh, NCISO 14851

Seawater

Wilmington, NCASTM D6691

Biodegradation Measurements

Respirometer SystemRSA PF-8000

http://www.envitreat.com/rsa/

% Biodegradation = OuThOD

*100

Ou - Oxygen UptakeThOD - Theoretical Oxygen Demand

ISO 14851:1999. Determination of the ultimate aerobic biodegradability of plastic materials in an aqueous medium -- Method by measuring the oxygen demand in a closed respirometer; 2005.ASTM D6691 − 09. Standard Test Method for Determining Aerobic Biodegradation of Plastic Materials in the Marine Environment by a Defined Microbial Consortium; West Conshohocken, PA, 2009.

32

PRELIMINARY RESULTS

Lake Water Collection

Collection Site Lake Raleigh

GPS Coordinates 35.7663, -78.6774Date May 24, 2018Time 10:40 am

Temperature 27.8 °CDissolved Oxygen 7.74 mg/L

pH 6.49Turbidity 4.17 NTU

RSA PF-8000 System in Aerobic Mode

33Respirometer Systems and Application LCC. Instruction Manual for the PF-8000 Aerobic / Anaerobic Respirometer System; 2016.

Control ModulePressure Regulator Module

Oxygen Supply

Computer

Pressure Decrease?

Yes

No

Oxygen Uptake Data

EXPERIMENTAL DESIGN

34

PRELIMINARY RESULTS

Biodegradation curves of the Textile Yarns (ISO 14851)Determination of the Ultimate Aerobic Biodegradability of Plastic Materials in an Aqueous Medium

4 duplicates of each sampleInoculum – Lake Raleigh Water

Aerobic Biodegradation of Textile Spun Yarns in Aquatic Environments

-5

5

15

25

35

45

55

65

75

85

95

0 5 10 15 20 25 30

% B

iode

grad

atio

n

Days

100% Cotton

50%/50% Polyester/Cotton

100% Polyester

100% Rayon

Reference Material (MCC)

Full Presentation at CottonWorksTM

End of Life (EoL) – Knit Collared Shirt

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

China Germany Italy Japan United Kingdom United StatesThrow them away Donate to charity Re-use Give them away Other Uses Sell them

Daystar et al, accepted to Journal of Cleaner Production, Under final review

Blue Jeans Go Green™ Denim Recycling Program

Data Driven Sustainability Story

LCA Available at CottonWorks™ Website

U.S. Cotton Sustainability Goals

How We Define Sustainable Agriculture

Meeting the needs of the present while improving the ability of future generations to meet their own needs by:• Increasing productivity to meet future food

and fiber demands• Improving the environment• Improving human health• Improving the social and economic well-

being of agricultural communities

Key Performance Indicators (KPI)

• Yield: pounds of fiber per acre.

• Soil erosion rate: tons of soil loss per acre per year (estimated from RUSLE2).

• Irrigation Water Use Efficiency: pounds of fiber per acre above dry-land yield divided by inches of irrigation applied.

• Energy Use: total energy in BTUs from seed to bale per pound of cotton fiber produced. Includes energy to create inputs such as the fertilizer as well as direct energy used on the farm.

• Greenhouse Gas Emissions: pounds of CO2 equivalent emitted per pound of fiber.

• Biodiversity: measure of different crop types and natural ecosystem area on a farm.

• Soil Carbon: carbon content of the soil.

• Water Quality: dimensionless index that reflects IPM and fertilizer practices on the farm.

• Farm Profitability: financial returns above variable costs.

• Generation of Economic Value: reflects the direct contribution of agricultural production at the farm gate to state and national gross domestic product.

• Worker Safety: based on worker illness and injury, and fatalities.

• Labor Productivity: Hours of labor to produce a pound of cotton (field to gin).

• Market share: Percentage of cotton’s share of the global fiber market

• Fiber Competiveness: Fiber quality attributes and process-ability

U.S. Cotton’s Sustainability Goals for 2025

13% Increase in Land Use Efficiency

15% Reductionin Energy Use

50% Reduction inSoil Loss

39% Reduction in GHG Emissions

18% Increase in Irrigation Water Use Efficiency

30% Increase in Soil Carbon

Carbon sequestration slide

“Soil organic carbon harbors three times as much carbon

as Earth’s atmosphere.”Science 2017 355 1420

Soil Health: Conservation tillage in the U.S.

Two-thirds of U.S. growers use conservation tillage

2015 Natural Resource Survey of U.S. Cotton Producers.

None or Strip

(45%)

Conventional (35%)

Conservation (17%)

Soil Health (Increase Soil Organic Carbon 30% Percent)

-1.2

-0.8

-0.4

0

0.4

0.8

Carbon depletion associated with tillage intensity

Carbon increase associated with reduced

tillage and/or cover crops.

CONVENTIONAL REDUCED TILLAGE NO-TILL N

SoilSciSocAm 2010-74-347

Goal: 30% Increase Soil Carbon2/3 of the cotton fields with a net gain in soil carbon

Green House Gas Emissions

y = -0.0175x + 36.610.0

0.5

1.0

1.5

2.0

2.5

1980 1990 2000 2010 2020 2030

Poun

d CO

2e p

er P

ound

Fi

ber

HistoricGoal

The Green House Gas Goal of 0.85 lbs of CO2e per pound of fiber is ambitious since it matches the spirit U.S. commitment under the Paris Accord and exceeds our historic trend line by 30% and our current F2M FieldPrints.This metric does not account for carbon sequestered in the fiber (biogenic carbon) which matches current GHG emissions and would designate cotton as carbon neutral.

Drivers for this GHG improvement include:• Yield and Nitrogen Use Efficiency gains• Carbon capture from cover crops & no-till

Goal: 39% Reduction


GHG from All F2M Fields

0

0.5

1

1.5

2

2.5

3

3.5

4

1098

1095

1096

1063

1303

1108

1052

1065

1073

1185

1100

1070

1099

1175

1059

1103

1056

1105

1180

1064

1173

1102

1106

1109

1072

1066

1110

1094

1067

1101

1181

1104

1062

1112

1312

1055

1111

1478

1071

1186

1174

1176

1057

1061

1182

1172

1060

1107

1058

1097

1093

Poun

d CO

2e/p

ound

of c

otto

n

Goal: 39% Reduction


Land use: FAO, 2013; Fiber Use: Horn and Snowman, 2013

Cotton meets 28% of the world’s textile needs from 3% of the agricultural land

Maize16%

Rice14%

Soybeans9%

Wheat19%

Cotton3%

Other39%

Synthetic65%

Cotton28%

Other Natural

2%

OtherManufactured

5%

Worldwide Demand for FibersPercent of Global Cropland

Land

Land Use Efficiency(land required to produce a pound of fiber)

y = 9.3506x - 17988

0100200300400500600700800900

1000

Poun

ds p

er A

cre

Fiber Yield

Historic Goal0.0000

0.0005

0.0010

0.0015

0.0020

0.0025

0.0030

Acre

s per

Pou

nd Land Use Efficiency

Historic Goal

Goal: 13% increase


Land Use Efficiency(land required to produce a pound of fiber)

Technology drivers to higher yields in 10 years:• Continued investment in plant breeding (genomic tools, CRISPR gene editing, High-Through-

Put phenotyping, germplasm expansion, large-scale line screening, breeder training/education, etc.)

• Expanding precision irrigation and fertilization based on in-field measurements should minimize the yield gap between on farm outcomes and the genetic potential of modern varieties.

• Big data and agriculture robots should provide better predictive power for growers and enhance their ability to apply timely inputs.

• Expanding soil health will improve root uptake of water and nutrients.• The corn industry utilizes rapid hybrid testing and adoption which keeps the “newest race

cars on the track”. If cotton adopted this strategy a small yield increase would occur.

Nature-2017-544-S21 on Ag. Robots

Soil Loss: Conservation tillage in the U.S.

Two-thirds of U.S. growers use conservation tillage

2015 Natural Resource Survey of U.S. Cotton Producers.

None or Strip

(45%)

Conventional (35%)

Conservation (17%)

Soil Conservation

This 10-year Goal is ambitious and below trend line. But, from the progress made to 2010, this goal appears achievable. Cultivation likely increased soil loss since 2010, a problem largely corrected for most growers with new weed control technologies.

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

Soil

Loss

(ton

s per

acr

e)

Historic Goal

The Field to Market Soil Conservation metric is based on the NRCS model of soil erosion where T represents a balance between soil formation and soil loss (i.e. T = zero net soil loss).

The 10 year Goal is T averaged across the U.S. which is 5 tons per acre soil loss.

Goal: 50% Reduction


Soil Loss from All F2M Fields (Erosion from Wind and Water)

05

101520253035404550

ID-1

098

ID-1

095

ID-1

096

ID-1

063

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303

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108

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ID-1

185

ID-1

100

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070

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099

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175

ID-1

059

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105

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180

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312

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093

Water Erosion ton/ac/yr Wind Erosion ton/ac/yr

Tons

per

Acr

e

Most fields were near or below the 5 tons per acre Goal.

Goal: 50% Reduction


What Will Drive Improvements in Soil Loss?

• More use of cover crops for weed suppression

• More adoption of rainfall capture practices (residue and surface roughness) as rain events become more severe

• Expanded producer outreach programs to reach those few growers whose fields experience high erosion rates by demonstrating the profitability of improved soil stewardship.

Source: Hoekstra, A. Y. & Chapagain, A. K. (2007). Water footprints of nations: water use by people as a function of their consumption pattern. Water Resource Management, (21)1, 35–48.

Cotton production uses 3% of the

world’s agricultural water

Other

Rice

Wheat

Corn

Soybean

Sugar Cane

Cotton

Millet

Barley

CoconutsSorghum

Cotton’s Global Water Use

U.S. Cotton Crop Largely Rain-Fed

2007 Agricultural Census, USDA, © 2008 Cotton Incorporated.

• 60% of U.S. cotton land requires no irrigation• Only 4% of land is fully irrigated

400

500

600

700

800

900

1000

30

35

40

45

50

55

60

65

70

1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010 2015

Yiel

d (k

g fib

er p

er h

a)

Irrig

atio

n W

ater

App

lied

(cm

ha

per h

a)

Year

Water Applied Yield

Source: USDA Farm and Ranch Irrigation Surveys

Decreased water use: 40%Increased yields: 50%

U.S. Water & Yield Trends

Irrigation Water Use Efficiency (WUE)

y = -1.771E-03x + 3.583E+000.000.010.020.030.040.050.060.070.080.090.10

Inch

of I

rrig

atio

n pe

r Lb

Fibe

r Inc

reas

e

Historic

Goal

y = 1.1679x - 2305.30

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

LbFi

ber I

ncre

ase

per I

nch

Irrig

atio

n

HistoricGoal

Goal: 18% Increase


Water Use Efficiency from All F2M Fields(Increase 18%)

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

ID-1

098

ID-1

095

ID-1

096

ID-1

063

ID-1

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ID-1

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ID-1

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Poun

ds o

f Cot

ton

per A

cre-

inch

of W

ater

Goal: 18% Increase


Optimizing Irrigation: Precision Timing

What Will Drive WUE Gain?

The Goal represents an 18% increase in Water Use Efficiency. Based on current F2M grower metrics (next slide) and historic trend this Goal appears reasonable.• Yield increase (as previously discussed)

will improve WUE• Continued investment in better water

delivery systems (e.g. drip, pipe planner, laser leveling, low pressure nozzles)

• Improved irrigation scheduling tools (e.g. computer programs, crops/soils sensors)

Energy Use

Drivers for increased in Energy Use efficiency include:• Yield increase will only partially

contribute since energy for harvest and ginning scales with yield

• Further reductions in tillage• Further increases in nitrogen use

efficiency from site specific management

• More efficient electrical grids supplying fertilizer producers and ginners

0

2,000

4,000

6,000

8,000

10,000

12,000

14,000

BTU

per

Pou

nd

Historic

Goal

Goal: 15% Reduction


Energy Use from All F2M Fields

0

2000

4000

6000

8000

10000

12000

1093

1096

1105

1065

1071

1106

1180

1073

1185

1052

1186

1063

1055

1181

1059

1174

1072

1176

1057

1478

1064

1061

1066

1173

1104

1182

1098

1103

1110

1094

1100

1062

1303

1067

1102

1172

1108

1060

1101

1107

1070

1099

1175

1056

1112

1109

1111

1058

1097

1095

1312

BTU

s/po

und

of fi

ber

Drying Energy Irrigation EnergyCrop Protection/Crop Chemical Product Energy Seed-tillage-transportation EnergyFertilizer-manure Energy

Goal: 15% Reduction


F2M Fieldprint Calculator Adoption

• Currently 100,000 Cotton acres have been FieldPrinted; our Goal is to increase this to 2.5 million acres in 10-years.

• When cotton producers conduct a FieldPrint on 10% of their fields they benchmark environmental impacts and identify areas for improvement on their entire farm.

Goal is 2,500,000 Cotton acres

Field to Market Platform

• Robust platform with NGO and other stakeholder engagement• Well developed rules and claims guidance• Provides platform to increase cotton sustainability • U.S. Cotton Industry Goal of 2.5 million acres of enrolment

Fieldprint Calculator

Fieldprint Calculator Adoption

• Fieldprint Calculator used to evaluate KPIs• Sufficient cotton acres needed for

evaluation to track improvements• Further tool development needed to

increase adoption • $100,000 contributed to development of

version 3.0

TimeParticipation in FTM (acres) Comment

Now 100,000To date at least 100 farmers have Field Printed at least one cotton field. The average cotton acres per farm in the US is ~1,000 acres

5 years 1,000,000 Add an additional 900 farmers to the list of using the Field Print Calculator

10 years 2,500,000 Add an additional 1,500 farms to the list of farms using the Field Print Calculator

30 years 100% of US Cotton Acres All U.S. farms use the Field Print Calculator on at least one field.

Common Themes for Improvement

• Yield Increase• Cover Crops

• Soil improvement (erosion, quality & carbon)• Weed suppression• Rainfall capture (Water Quantity & Quality)

• Precision Management• Optimizing fertilizer and water use• Robots to reduce GHG, energy, labor, and as

harvested when boll opens, less field loss and better quality.

Agriculture & Environmental Research

• Commodity Research & Opportunities Research Partnership (CROP)• Start sustainability focused meeting

• Collaboration on conservation • Soil health• Soil loss• Fieldprint Calculator

Beyond Cotton Sustainability Leadership Among Commodities

Meeting Sustainability Goals with LEADSTM

Partners Supporting U.S. Cotton

2

94

189239 257

300354

404 433

546

Walmart Gigaton Project

• Walmart• Soil health• Water sensor• Traceability • Fieldprint Calculator use

• Wrangler• Soil health project in Texas

• Louisiana Fieldprint Calculator Project

Brand Engagement in Sustainability

Walmart Water Sensor ProjectProject SummaryDescription: Promoting the use of water sensors in cotton fields through research & education. Solving for: Inconsistent irrigation scheduling in humid regions can result in over or under watering crops. The use of water sensors has the potential to increase yields and water use efficiency. Estimated Duration: Long-Term (24 months)

Progress• Partnered with UGA to support pilot water sensors study

• 22 farmers participating in 2017• Opportunity to expand participation in 2018 with additional

support• Secured two brand sponsors

Sustainability Conference

• Goal: Provide a balanced and science-based approach to tackling sustainability challenges within the cotton and apparel industries

• Timing: potentially spring 2019

• Attendees

• Brands

• Scientist and researchers

• NGOs

Thank You!

Dr. Jesse DaystarChief Sustainability [email protected]

Cotton: Leading Sustainability

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RESPONSIBLE MATERIALS FOCUS: COTTON’S ENVIRONMENTAL … · 2020-05-07 · Key Performance...

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