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ROADTRIP Civil War Sites, Part II Rap p a h a n n o c k R i v e r 17 395 235 3 95 1 495 1 235 95 495 123 95 1 95 1 234 619 610 3 20 3 3 BYP 3 610 639 620 Give a nod to the fallen with this Confederate soldier . Watch out for the trees while playing Frisbee golf in the mostly wooded Pohick Bay Regional Park. Goolrick’s has an old-fashioned lunch counter that moves with modern speed. Confederate soldiers fought twice — in December 1862 and May 1863 — at this stone wall paralleling the Sunken Road. Driver’s route Start here Take the scenic route along the George Washington Memorial Parkway, but don’t dawdle — getting through this trip in one day requires a commitment to motion. Hit the batting cages at Locust Shade Park. The bullet marks that remain on the Old Salem Church were from shots intended for the snipers firing from the upper floor windows. At Chancellorsville Battlefield, rangers will give you a map to find where Stonewall Jackson’s arm was buried. At Hazel Grove — a grassy knoll covered with cannons — imagine the day rounds fired across the farmland at Union troops at Fairview. Be one of those people who stops to read historical roadside markers. This one tells the tragic story of how Stonewall Jackson’s own soldiers accidentally shot him. The current peace at the Ellwood estate belies the bustle of the Federals that used it as a battle headquarters during the Wilderness. VIRGINIA MARYLAND Pohick Bay Regional Park Woodbridge FAIRFAX COUNTY PRINCE WILLIAM COUNTY STAFFORD COUNTY SPOTSYLVANIA COUNTY ORANGE CO. ALEXANDRIA ARLINGTON CO. P ot o m a c R i v e r Mount Vernon Dumfries Fredericksburg Wilderness Locust Shade Park PRINCE STREET WASHINGTON STREET G . W . M E M O R I A L P A R K W A Y POHICK BAY DRIVE GUNSTON RD. LOCUST SHADE DRIVE CAROLINE STREET LAFAYETTE BLVD. STUART DRIVE BULLOCK ROAD Fairfax 0 MILES 8 WHERE: Civil War battlefields in Virginia. WHY: Chilling stories of snipers at a church and an amputated arm. HOW FAR: About 65 miles or 90 minutes from Alexandria. Y ou don’t have to be a Civil War buff to appreciate the beauty of the storied countryside on this trip through the Old Dominion — or get a chill conjuring images of the heroic and gruesome struggles of days past. We visit three of the four major Civil War engagements commemorated by the Freder- icksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park: Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville and the Wilderness. The entire area, midway be- tween Washington and Richmond, saw more than 100,000 casualties during the Civil War. We begin at a statue you may have driven past a hundred times: a man standing with head bowed, arms folded, facing the south. It marks the spot from which Alexandrians de- parted as Confederate soldiers for the Civil War on May 24, 1861. But the historic heart of the trip doesn’t start until we reach the Fredericksburg Battlefield Visitor’s Center, where you should spring the $2 (seniors $1, younger than 10 free) to see the recently up- dated 22-minute movie. The cinematic history lesson includes De- cember of 1862’s Battle of Fredericksburg as well as 1863’s Chancellorsville campaign — and prepares you to appreciate the Sunken Road adjacent to the center. Don’t miss the photo posted in the parking lot — it was tak- en just a few hours after the intense fighting there on May 3, 1863. The image of fallen soldiers with guns, clothes and equipment strewn about puts you hauntingly in the mid- dle of that day. In fact, about four miles west later that day, the same Union troops attacked Confed- erates at Old Salem Church. The 1844-built Baptist church had been serving as tempo- rary home to civilians displaced by the war, but the refugees found their “home” sudden- ly transformed into a battlefield hospital. Fighting also raged nearby at Hazel Grove and Fairview — the main Battle of Chancel- lorsville, considered by many to be Robert E. Lee’s tactical masterpiece. Today, you can stand on the well-preserved battlefield and examine one of the many cannons that re- mind visitors of the combat there. Finally, we arrive at the Ellwood planta- tion, which turns out to be the most peculiar stop on our trip — it boasts the burial site not of Stonewall Jackson but of his left arm, which was amputated after he was shot by friendly fire on May 2, 1863. This 1790s-built farm served as a field hospital for the Battle of Chancellorsville and as Union headquar- ters a year later during the horrific Battle of the Wilderness. — Susan Straight Road Trip maps are available online at www. washingtonpost.com/roadtrip, as are address- es and hours of operation (be sure to check before you go). Have an idea for a trip? E- mail [email protected]. MAP BY JEROME COOKSON FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; PHOTOS BY SUSAN STRAIGHT FOR THE WASHINGTON POST
Transcript
Page 1: ROADTRIP - The Washington Post€¦ · ROADTRIP Civil War Sites, Part II SOURCE 06-11-06 DC EE M8 CMYK M8 C M Y K M8 C M Y K M8 Sunday, June 11, 2006 x The Washington Post DollarWise

ROADTRIP Civil War Sites, Part II

SOURCE 06-11-06 DC EE M8 CMYK

M8CMYK

M8CMYK

M8 Sunday, June 11, 2006 The Washington Postx

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After finding a 10-10 code thatoffers the best deal for the coun-try you’re calling, simply punch itin before dialing an internationalarea code and phone number.Some services will confirm therate in real-time on the phone,but be sure to read all of theterms for a 10-10 code beforepicking up that receiver. Someservices also charge an extra percall fee when you use one of theircodes, though you’re usually notcharged if the call doesn’t con-nect. Rules and rates also varywidely for calls to mobile phones.

— Courtney Macavinta

BY MAX OPPENHEIM — GETTY IMAGES

Rappahannock River

17

395

235

3

951

495

1

235

95

495

123

95

1

95

1

234

619

6103

20

3

3

BYP3

610

639620

Give a nod to the fallen withthis Confederate soldier.

Watch out for the trees while playing

Frisbee golf in the mostly wooded

Pohick Bay Regional Park.

Goolrick’s has an old-fashioned lunch

counter that moves with modern speed.

Confederate soldiers fought twice — in December 1862 andMay 1863 — at this stone wall paralleling the Sunken Road.

Driver’s route

Start here

Take the scenic route along the GeorgeWashington Memorial Parkway, butdon’t dawdle — getting through this trip inone day requires a commitment to motion.

Hit the batting cages atLocust Shade Park.

The bullet marks that remain onthe Old Salem Church werefrom shots intended for the snipersfiring from the upper floor windows.

At ChancellorsvilleBattlefield, rangerswill give you a mapto find whereStonewall Jackson’sarm was buried.

At Hazel Grove — a grassy knollcovered with cannons — imaginethe day rounds fired across thefarmland at Union troops at Fairview.

Be one of thosepeople who stopsto read historicalroadside markers.This one tells thetragic story ofhow StonewallJackson’s ownsoldiers accidentallyshot him.

The current peace atthe Ellwood estatebelies the bustle ofthe Federals thatused it as a battleheadquarters duringthe Wilderness.

V I R G I N I A M A R Y L A N D

Pohick BayRegional Park

Woodbridge

FA I R FA X C O U N T Y

P R I N C EW I L L I A MC O U N T Y

STA F F O R D C O U N T Y

S P OTSY LVA N I A C O U N T Y

O R A N G EC O .

A L E X A N D R I A

A R L I N GTO NC O .

Poto

mac

Rive

r

MountVernon

Dumfries

Fredericksburg

Wilderness

LocustShade Park

PRINCE STREET

WASHINGTONSTREET

G.W

.M

EMO

RIA

LPA

RK

WAY

POHICK BAY DRIVE

GUNSTONRD.

LOCUST SHADEDRIVE

CAROLINESTREET

LAFAYETTE BLVD.

STUART DRIVE

BULLOCKROAD

Fairfax

0

MILES

8

WHERE: Civil War battlefields in Virginia.

WHY: Chilling stories of snipers at a churchand an amputated arm.

HOW FAR: About 65 miles or 90 minutesfrom Alexandria.

Y ou don’t have to be a Civil Warbuff to appreciate the beauty ofthe storied countryside on thistrip through the Old Dominion —or get a chill conjuring images of

the heroic and gruesome struggles of dayspast.

We visit three of the four major Civil Warengagements commemorated by the Freder-icksburg and Spotsylvania National MilitaryPark: Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville andthe Wilderness. The entire area, midway be-tween Washington and Richmond, saw morethan 100,000 casualties during the Civil War.

We begin at a statue you may have drivenpast a hundred times: a man standing withhead bowed, arms folded, facing the south. Itmarks the spot from which Alexandrians de-parted as Confederate soldiers for the CivilWar on May 24, 1861. But the historic heartof the trip doesn’t start until we reach theFredericksburg Battlefield Visitor’s Center,where you should spring the $2 (seniors $1,younger than 10 free) to see the recently up-dated 22-minute movie.

The cinematic history lesson includes De-cember of 1862’s Battle of Fredericksburg aswell as 1863’s Chancellorsville campaign —and prepares you to appreciate the SunkenRoad adjacent to the center. Don’t miss thephoto posted in the parking lot — it was tak-en just a few hours after the intense fightingthere on May 3, 1863. The image of fallensoldiers with guns, clothes and equipment

strewn about puts you hauntingly in the mid-dle of that day.

In fact, about four miles west later thatday, the same Union troops attacked Confed-erates at Old Salem Church. The 1844-builtBaptist church had been serving as tempo-rary home to civilians displaced by the war,but the refugees found their “home” sudden-ly transformed into a battlefield hospital.

Fighting also raged nearby at Hazel Groveand Fairview — the main Battle of Chancel-lorsville, considered by many to be Robert E.Lee’s tactical masterpiece. Today, you canstand on the well-preserved battlefield andexamine one of the many cannons that re-mind visitors of the combat there.

Finally, we arrive at the Ellwood planta-tion, which turns out to be the most peculiarstop on our trip — it boasts the burial sitenot of Stonewall Jackson but of his left arm,which was amputated after he was shot byfriendly fire on May 2, 1863. This 1790s-builtfarm served as a field hospital for the Battleof Chancellorsville and as Union headquar-ters a year later during the horrific Battle ofthe Wilderness. — Susan Straight

Road Trip maps are available online at www.washingtonpost.com/roadtrip, as are address-es and hours of operation (be sure to checkbefore you go). Have an idea for a trip? E-mail [email protected].

MAP BY JEROME COOKSON FOR THE WASHINGTON POST; PHOTOS BY SUSAN STRAIGHT FOR THE WASHINGTON POST

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The Washington Post

1150 15th Street, NW

Washington, DC 20071

Metro: Farragut North or McPherson Square

Register online at:

www.washingtonpostbookclub.com or call 1-800-507-7007

An evening with historian

Simon Schamadiscussing his latest book: "Rough Crossings"

Subscribers: Washington Post home delivery/print edition: $20 Non-subscribers: $40 • Registration deadline: Thursday, June 15

Signing is limited to one book per person. Your cooperation is greatly appreciated.

* LIMITED SEATING * NO REFUNDS UNLESS EVENT IS CANCELLED. * ADMISSION IS BY TICKET ONLY.

Monday, June 26, 20066:30 p.m.-7:30 p.m.

(book signing follows)

Join us for an exclusive Washington Post Book Clubevent with distinguished historian Simon Schama. He will be discussing and signing his latest book, “Rough Crossings.” The book tells the little-known storyof the emancipation of slaves during the AmericanRevolution—not by America’s Founding Fathers, but by Britain. It chronicles the former slaves’ settlements in Nova Scotia and the new colony founded by abolitionists, Sierra Leone, and it describes the factors

that brought about the end of the self-rule that the former slaves had been promised there. He will be introduced by Book World deputy editor Jabari Asimand senior editor Warren Bass.

Books will be available for purchase at the event. Light refreshments will beserved. Reservations are required and space is limited.

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Proofed by: gonzaleze Time: 20:14 - 06-08-2006 Separation: C M Y K HIGH-RES PROOF. IMAGES ARE RIPPED. FULL PROOF INTEGRITY.Product: SOURCE LayoutDesk: SOU PubDate: 06-11-06 Zone: DC Edition: EE Page: RDTRIP

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