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Rome
THERE ARE FEW CITIES ON THE PLANET MORE STEEPED IN HISTORY, INTRIGUE, POLITICS, CULTURE, ROMANCE, AND JAW-DROPPING ANCIENT ARCHITECTURE THAN ROME.
The sheer scale and breathtaking
preservation of many of the cities
greatest monuments is a joy to behold.
And then of course, there is the cooking,
the staggering art, the fashion, la bella
figura and of course la dolce vita. The
Romans love life, and who are we to deny
them? Embrace Rome with open arms,
and go as often as you can, there’s simply
nowhere like it.
The cult pocket city guides and mobile
apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler
www.luxecityguides.comCITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
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• Rome is super-saturated with
visitors on all major holidays,
particularly religious ones; the best
times to visit are Nov, Jan or Feb;
Aug broils, the population flee en
masse and the city all but shuts, but
at least the streets are relatively
crowd free – your call
• Fiumicino to Centro set fare by taxi:
€45 / 40 mins
• Cycling and walking are great
options around Centro. Beyond,
the metro and trams are easy and
frequent
• Ciampino to Centro set fare by taxi:
€35 / 35 mins
• Taxi drivers are notorious for adding
extras, so watch the meter, Peter. In
town, the meter’s red dot should be
next to the #1; if not, he’s diddling
you...
• Check your change, Romans rarely
tip their drivers
Blah blah• Stillies + cobble streets don’t mix, so
break out the flats
• Spring: Settimana della Cultura –
Culture Week, all state museums
are free / beniculturali.it. Sep/
Oct: Roma Europa Art Festival –
music, dance and theatre / http://
www.romaeuropa.net. Oct/Nov:
Festa del Cinema / http://www.
romacinemafest.it.
• Shops generally open from 10am-
7:30pm, although smaller ones take
an afternoon pause from 1-4pm, and
most close all day Sun and on Mon
mornings too
• Restaurants and services tend to
close on Sunday as well, so use this
day for museums and activities
• Always book well ahead for the city’s
best tables and be sure to reconfirm
as reservations often get ‘lost’
• Service is always included, but add
up to 10% anyway
• All indoor restaurants and bars are
non-smoking
• Bars are legally required to let non-
patrons use loos which is terribly
useful if you’r caught short
• Coffee etiquette: caffè/espresso is a
single shot, doppio is a double shot,
Americano is a long black
• Drinking cappuccino after midday is
considered a tad declassé
• The intl dialing code for Italy is +39,
Rome’s city code is 6, although this
prefix is not needed when calling
mobiles; for general emergencies
dial 113
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LUXE INSIDER
Kika Repetto / PERSONAL SHOPPER
Style consultant Kika Repetto is
the city’s go-to personal shopper
offering full or half-day bespoke
itineraries tailored to match
each client’s budget and taste.
Commuting between Rome, São
Paulo, Paris and London she keeps
a firm finger on the pulse of all
the latest trends and forecasts,
openings, closings and city secrets.
By appt only +39 328 696 4886
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1) WHAT’S THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT ROME AND WHY? ARE THERE ANY SPECIAL EVENTS TO LOOK OUT FOR?
May, flowers everywhere, walls
covered in jasmine, the entire town
is jasmine scented! Visit the Roseto
Comunale (open from May to October
an amazing rose garden with 1100
different varieties of roses – Via di
Valle Murcia, 6 (Aventino)
2) WHAT’S THE ONE THING EVERY VISITOR TO ROME MUST DO AND WHY?
View Rome from the top! From the
Passeggiata del Gianicolo by the
statue of Garibaldi, from the terrace
of Musei Capitoline, or Hotel Eden’s
La Terrazza dell’Eden (fantastic
for drinks), from the Pincio Villa
Borghese, or from the terrace of
Castel SantÁngelo. All offer sublime
views of the city around sunset.
www.museicapitolini.org
www.laterrazzadelleden.com
www.castelsantangelo.com
3) WHERE CAN YOU BE FOUND ON A SATURDAY OR SUNDAY MORNING? In spring or on a sunny winter day, for
lunch at Ciampini at Piazza Trinita dei
Monti by the Spanish Steps, or Bar
Cafe Ciampini in Piazza San Lorenzo
in Lucina for cappuccino and cornetti
or a light lunch.
www.caffeciampini.com
www.ciampini.net
4) WHAT’S THE BEST LOCAL DELICACY IN ROME, AND WHY AND WHERE IS IT WORTH TRYING?
Burrata and dried pachino tomatoes
with nut bread you could die for
at Roscioli, one of the best Italian
gourmet shops that has a small
restaurant in the back. Make sure
you book!
www.salumeriaroscioli.com
5) WHERE WOULD YOU GO FOR A COCKTAIL AND WHAT WOULD YOU ORDER?
Salotto 42 at Piazza di Pietra 42.
Very good drinks in a cool modern
atmosphere in front of the most
striking columns in Rome, steps away
from the Pantheon. Good music, and a
young and hip Roman crowd that give
a sense of where the city’s scene is
at right now! I love their Bloody Mary
with lots of lemon.
www.salotto42.it
LUXE INSIDER
Kika Repetto / PERSONAL SHOPPER
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LA TAVERNA DEI FORI IMPERIALI Dining
Packed to the rafters and always
popular, the serious, no nonsense, big
flavors cooking, and cheerful, swift
service keep the diners coming back
for more. If you like gingham on your
table, and classic dishes like carbonara
or meat loaf on your plate, you’ll be in
heaven.
AL MORO Dining
Fellini was a fan, and Valentino still is.
Head to this charming time warp for
polished woods, nostalgic photographs
and traditional recipes served up
with old-fashioned finesse. Try the
house speciality, Spaghetti Al Moro (a
version of carbonara) and don’t worry,
Franco the grumpy owner is grumpy
to everyone, not just you!
SANTA LUCIA Dining
In late spring and all through summer
can there be anything lovelier than
dining alfresco at night on the little
triangular, tree-lined terrazza of Santa
Lucia? The freshest of ingredients
are paraded for your delectation, the
waiters are beyond friendly, and its
location means it’s literally steps from
the Raphael Hotel and its glorious little
rooftop bar where you will no doubt
wish to sit pre and post. Cin cin!
Largo Febo, 12 / Navona /
+39 6 6880 2427
www.santaluciaristorante.it
Via Madonna dei Monti 9 / Monti /
+39 6 679 8643 / closed Tuesday
www.latavernadeiforiimperiali.com
Vicolo delle Bollette, 13 / Trevi /
+39 6 678 3495 / closed Sunday
LUXE Loves
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LUXE Loves
LUCIA ODESCALCHI Shopping
If contemporary jewelry rings your
bell, then don’t dare miss these
stunning collections housed in Ms.
Odescalchi’s beautiful family palazzo.
Pairing bronze and iron and steel with
diamonds and precious stones, Lucia
has set the fashion world alight, and
more than a few hearts fluttering.
Piazza Santi Apostoli, 81 /
+39 6 699 2556
www.luciaodescalchi.com
MORIONDO & GARIGLIO
Shopping
Who can resist sweets for the sweet?
No matter what time of year you visit
this confetteria you’re guaranteed
a seasonal delight of homemade
chocolates and candies, from
marron glacés in winter to sugar
violets in spring. Adorable and sinful,
in equal measure.
Via del Pie di Marmo, 21 / Pantheon /
+39 6 699 0856 / closed Sunday
GALLERIA BORGHESE Activity
Not only is the villa pretty, but the
superb, perfectly-sized museum inside
it contains gorgeous works by Titian,
Raphael, Caravaggio and Rubens, as
well as staggering Bernini and Canova
marble masterpieces that seem to be
alive. What’s more, tickets are limited
and timed, so there is no push or shove
and no over-crowding. A joy!
Villa Borghese / Piazzale Scipione
Borghese, 5 / +39 6 328 10 / tickets
must be booked in advance
www.galleriaborghese.it
IL GOCCETTO Bar
As you amble down Via dei Banchi
Vecchi, at lunchtime, but more
especially in the evening, you’ll
see patrons spilling out onto the
street at this greatly loved and
mellow institution that specialises
in small labels from Sicily to Venice.
Fun and friendly.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi, 14 / Campo
di Fioro / +39 6 686 4268 /
closed Sunday
www.ilgoccetto.com
SALOTTO 42 Bar
Rome’s fashionistas love the relaxed,
but chic vibe of this book-lined salon
with its great cocktails, sounds and
plush places to perch. Tucked in the
back streets behind the Pantheon and
open throughout the day, it’s a great
bolt-hole for a coffee too.
Piazza di Pietra, 42 / Pantheon /
+39 6 678 5804 / closed Monday
www.salotto42.it
GELATERIA SAN CRISPINO
Dining
There’s ice cream, and then there’s
San Crispino gelati. This traditional
parlour delivers divine homemade
honey, meringue, ginger and fig
amongst many, many others, and
while you have to run the gauntlet of
the Trevi milling masses to get to it, it
sure is worth it when you do. Dreamy
and creamy!
Via della Panetteria, 42 / Trevi /
+39 6 679 3924 / closed Tuesdays
in autumn and winter
www.ilgelatodisancrispino.it
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LUXE LovesTHE SCAVI TOUR
Activity
Not for the fainthearted, nor those
suffering from claustrophobia, this
unique tour is severely restricted
in numbers, highly atmospheric
and takes you into the bowels of St.
Peter’s Basilica to visit the original
pagan necropolis underneath it and
purported last resting place of St.
Peter himself.
BABUINO 181 Hotel
Fabulously situated, molto elegante
contemporary chambers wrapped
in a C.18th palazzo, with comp WiFi,
snappy service and quieter courtyard-
facing rooms for light sleepers, and all
but a Gucci loafer’s toss from Piazza
Popolo, Hotel de Russie and the lovely
shopping of Via Margutta and Via
Condotti. Bliss!
PORTRAIT SUITES Hotel
This 14-suite ‘residence’ oozes
Ferragamo attention to detail and
style, attentive staff, a calm palette
of limed woods and dove grey, plus a
fabulous rooftop deck that’s perfect for
sunset views of the city. All rooms have
kitchenettes, while #51 has a private
terrace and #52 is super-doop duplex.
Via Bocca di Leone, 23 / Spagna /
+39 6 6938 0742 /
www.lungarnocollection.com/en
Via del Babuino, 181 / Popolo /
+39 6 6992 1907
www.romeluxurysuites.com
You can only book (in advance) via the
Vatican Excavations Office by email
or fax – [email protected] / +39 6 69 873
017 / for full application details type in
‘excavations office scavi’ on the search
engine at www.vatican.va
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LUXE LoathesTAXI DRIVERS
Notorious for adding extras, watch out
for the red dot scam (see Blah blah).
GRAFFITI
Everywhere, particularly Trastevere,
such a shame.
WAITERS
You could expire and be buried before
being served.
‘CENTURIONS’ AT THE COLISEUM
These photo ops, are photo flops.
OPENING TIMES
What do Roman shopkeepers do on
Sunday, Monday morning and daily
between 1-4pm?
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Fab vs. DrabVATICAN VISIT
Nothing can be more drab than
standing in line outside the Vatican
Museums with literally thousands of
other grumpy people, so to cut your
queue time to only minutes, book a
personal guided tour with Context
Travel – ta-dah!
www.contexttravel.com
PICNIC
Don’t waste time racing all around
town trying to put together hamper
ingredients, pop into Gina and pick
up a picnic ‘cestino’ packed with
summery goodies.
www.ginaroma.com
GETTING AROUND
Rome’s myriad of tiny streets can
mean getting stuck in noisy traffic
on baking summer days is a strong
possibility, consider instead zipping
around town on your very own scooter
or bicycle from Bici e baci.
www.bicibaci.com
WINE APPRECIATION
If you enjoy drinking delicious Italian
wine with every meal, you’ll enjoy it
all the more once you understand its
nuances. Arrange a fab wine tasting
masterclass at Vino Roma and amaze
your friends back home with your
newfound knowledge.
www.vinoroma.com
COOL OFF
Being all hot and bothered with
nowhere to cool off and relax is not
ideal, but rather than throw yourself
in the Trevi Fountain, all you have to
do is simply buy lunch at the Parco
dei Principi Hotel and you can treat
yourself to an afternoon poolside at
the hotel’s lovely oasis, one of the
very few swimming pools in the city.
www.parcodeiprincipi.com
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Start your day viewing the charming
private family collection housed at
the Galleria Doria Pamphilj. This vast
palazzo is still home to the Pamphilj
family, and is a fascinating insight into
the art and daily life of the house. The
audio tour is narrated in English by
Prince Jonathan himself. Afterwards
head to Ciampini for a well-earned
coffee, or better yet, a large portion of
their scandalously good pistachio ice-
cream, before zipping to the Spanish
Steps and popping into Gina to pick
up a picnic (see Fab vs Drab). Now,
off with you to the sylvan grounds of
the Villa Borghese, the perfect park
to eat your lunch alfresco. Having
booked your tickets in advance you
will now be perfectly placed to saunter
LUXE ITINERARY
Romance
into your timed opening slot at the
sublime Galleria Borghese (see LUXE
Loves), home to some to the loveliest
treasures in the city, and with limited
numbers allowed in at any one time,
there are none of the heaving crowds
of the Vatican Museum. Well, you’ve
certainly earned a pamper, and the
glorious, limpid Wellness Zone spa
at the Hotel de Russie is the perfect
place to relax in the company of the
city’s divas and divos who can’t get
enough of the Watsu and hydro-
relaxation. As the clock hits 5pm your
thoughts should be turning to Campari
time atop the pretty roof of the
Raphael Hotel for the inevitably lovely
sunset over the ravishing city skyline.
Cocktails here come with a handsome
selection of tidbits, but don’t fill up,
you’ve only a few steps to go outside
the hotel to find the gracefully
romantic, tree-lined terrazza of Santa
Lucia (see LUXE Loves) where a high
likelihood of Cupidity is always in
the air. Saunter homewards now, but
stop for a nightcap if you can at Bar
della Pace – the streetside tables of
this eternal favorite line one of the
city’s most picturesque backstreets,
drenched in atmosphere and always
lively.
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Style
Well, you’ve certainly got a stylish
day ahead, but don’t skimp on the
most important meal of the day,
instead make a beeline to chicster
café La Buvette where they even offer
delicious health and low-cal breakfasts
(mostly unheard of in Roma). Suitably
replete, can there be any greater joy
than shopping the nearby streets
Babuino, Margutta and legendary
Condotti? So many shopportunities;
from fashion staples Eleonora and
TAD, glove emporium Sermoneta, and
home décor at Pratesi, to labelista
Marni and shoe maestro Caovilla.
It’s always important, of course, to
balance retail with culture, so don’t
miss Richard Meier’s stupendous
glass and travertine ‘temple’ that
houses the utterly beautiful Ara
Pacis, or Altar of Peace. It sits rather
conveniently in the same square as
stylish, all day flop-spot Gusto, equally
great for coffee, lunch or supper,
and rightly famous for its jazzy
Sunday brunch buffet. Drop those
heavy shopping bags back at the
hotel and off with you velocemente
to the fabulous MAXXI. Zaha Hadid’s
architectural tour de force is alone
worth a viz, but the contemporary art
makes it an afternoon well spent and
there’s also a natty café in case you
get a sudden attack of gallery-itis.
When the weather is fine there is little
more pleasant occupation in Rome
than escaping the milling streets to a
rooftop bar for alfresco sundowners
surrounded by the amber rapture
of ancient buildings, and the lounge
bar of I Sofa di Via Giulia atop the
St. George Hotel perfectly matches
sophisticated cocktails with stunning
views. Hungry? Ask yourself how
are you feeling; chic, urbane and in
the mood for elegant dining? Then
make sleekster Baby your choice
with its poolside garden terrace. Or,
if something a little grittier, relaxed
and local is called for, hotfoot it to
Monti and the always popular, organic
regional cooking of Urbana 47. It just
remains to take nightcaps at the book-
lined social salon Salotto 42 (see LUXE
Loves), and that’s one stylish day in
the bag!
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LUXE ITINERARY
BusinessHaving a summer breakfast meeting?
Try to arrange it at the Hotel De
Russie so you can enjoy the alfresco
perfection of the 2 Michelin star
Jardin de Russie, with its pretty,
clipped shrubs and roses. Should
you have forgotten the mandatory
sunglasses that no Italian would be
seen dead without, fret not, simply
scoot across the road from the hotel
to Ottica Spieza and get yourself
suitably shaded from their up to
the moment range of specs. There
is little or no excuse for being badly
turned out in Rome with a plethora
of men’s and women’s outfitters, but
for serious men’s shirt tailoring and
excellent suits saunter down Condotti
to find Battistoni, and classically
tasteful men’s and womenswear at
Brunello Cucinelli. Now that you’re
sartorially sorted, you will need to
think of grooming. Rome’s ladies in
the know all make tracks to the head-
turning Noi salon where up-do’s and
blowouts rule the day from celebs
to contessas. Gentlemen meanwhile,
should check into one-stop guy spot
Wonderfool. This groovy groomer
features a barber, spa, Turkish
bath, mini-gym, massages, facials,
male-nails and great Art of Shaving
products to buy. Lunch! When great
value and a great venue are called
for, book ahead for the 2-course set
lunch at Open Colonna. This soaring
glass conservatory attracts a very
stylish, professional clientele and is
also a social hub at aperitivi hour.
Speaking of which, on the occasion
that you may prefer a quiet business
drink away from the eyes of all, the
gloriously old fashioned Bar Bistro
Mascagni scores top marks – hidden
away in the Grand Hotel Plaza, this
step-back-in-time capsule of brass and
red velvet serves up a very decent
martini and peaceful Proseccos, safely
undiscovered by the milling hordes.
For dinner, Dal Bolognese is packed
with the Estab crowd, politicos, WAGS
and celebs, but for a venue where
the accent is more firmly on the food,
your clients will love Antico Arco –
great cuisine, swish crowd and lovely
surroundings.
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LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials
• Galleria Doria Pamphilj
Via del Corso, 305 / Patheon /
+39 6 679 7323 /
www.doriapamphilj.it
• Ciampini
Plazza Trinita dei Monti / Centro /
+39 6 678 5678
www.caffeciampini.com
• Gina
(see Fab vs Drab)
• Villa Borghese
Via Pinciana
• Galleria Borghese
(see LUXE Loves)
Wellness Zone
Hotel de Russie / Via del Babuino, 9
/ Popolo / +39 6 3288 820 /
www.hotelderussie.it
• Raphael Hotel
Large Febo, 2 / Piazza Navona /
00186 Rome / +39 6 682 831 /
www.hotelraphael.it
• Santa Lucia
(see LUXE Loves)
• Bar della Pace
Via della Pace 3-7 / Navona /
+39 6 686 1216
www.caffedellapace.it
• La Buvette
Via Vittoria, 47 / Spagna /
+39 6 679 0383
www.labuvetteroma.it
• Eleonora
Via del Babuino, 97 / Spagna /
+39 6 6919 0554 /
www.eleonoraboutique.it
• TAD
Via del Babuino, 155a / Spagna /
+39 6 3269 5122
• Sermoneta
Piazza di Spagna, 61 / Spagna /
+39 6 679 1960
www.sermonetagloves.com
• Pratesi
Via Vittoria, 67a / Spagna /
+39 6 6819 0252
www.ue.pratesi.com
• Marni
Via Bocca di Leone 8 / Spagna /
+39 6 786 320
• Caovilla
Via Borgognona, 10 / Spagna /
+39 6 678 3879 /
www.caovilla.com
• Ara Pacis
Lungotevere in Augusta / Corso /
+39 6 8205 9127
www.arapacis.it
• Gusto
Piazza Augusto Imperatore, 9 /
Centro / +39 6 322 6273
www.gusto.it
• MAXXI
Via Guido Reni, 6 / Flaminio /
+39 6 678 4350
www.fondazionemaxxi.it
• I Sofa di Via Giulia
Via Giulia, 62 / Pantheon /
+39 6 6866 1826
www.isofadiviagiulia.com
• Baby
(Closed but other restaurants
available: www.aldrovandi.com/
en/48/restaurants-and-bars.aspx)
• Urbana 47
Via Urbana, 47 / Monti /
+39 6 4788 406
www.urbana47.it
• Salotto 42
(see LUXE Loves)
ROMANTIC ITINERARY STYLISH ITINERARY
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LUXE ITINERARY
The EssentialsBUSINESS ITINERARY
• Jardin de Russie
Hotel de Russie / Via del Babuino, 9
/ Popolo / +39 6 3288 8870 /
www.hotelderussie.it
• Ottica Spieza
Via del Babuino, 199 / Popolo /
+39 6 361 0593
• Battistoni
Via Condotti 60/61a / Tridente /
+39 6 697 6111 /
www.battistoni.com
• Brunello Cucinelli
Via Borgognona, 33 / Spagna /
+39 6 678 7680
www.brunellocucinelli.it
• Noi
Piazza del Popolo, 3 / Popolo /
+39 6 3600 6284
www.noisalon.com
• Wonderfool
Via dei Banchi Nuovi, 39 / Navona /
+39 6 6889 2315
www.wonderfool.it
• Open Colonna
Scalinata di via Milano, 9a / 00184
Roma / +39 6 4782 2641 /
www.opencolonna.it
• Bar Bistro Mascagni
Grand Hotel Plaza / Via del Corso,
126 / Corso / +39 6 674 952 /
www.grandhotelplaza.com
• Grand Hotel Plaza
Via del Corso, 126 / Corso /
+39 6 674 952 393
www.grandhotelplaza.com
• Dal Bolognese
Piazza del Popolo, 1 / Popolo /
+39 6 361 1426
• Antico Arco
Piazzale Aurelio, 7 / Janiculum /
+39 6 581 5274
www.anticoarco.it
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Your LUXE notes