S GUSTO Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre PDF... · 2014. 11. 26. · The consolidated event builds...

Salone del Gusto and Terra MadreTurin, Lingotto FiereOctober 25-29, 2012

Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre:The international event dedicated to the future of food

SALONE DEL GUSTO®

In 2012, the international Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre world meeting will be held together as a unified event for the first time, displaying the extraordinary diversity of food from all continents and uniting small-scale farmers and artisans from the north and south of the world who follow the principles of good, clean and fair production – food that is defined not only by excellent taste, but also environmental sustainability and social justice.

Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre will be held in Turin, Italy over October 25-29 at the Lingotto Fiere and Oval arena. The consolidated event builds on the success of the past eight editions of the Salone del Gusto - which has established an extensive network of outstanding producers, top chefs and supportive institutions and developed the Taste Workshops and other innovative food education activities – as well as the experience and knowledge of the Terra Madre network of food communities, academics, cooks and young people from 150 countries who have met in Turin since 2004.

The new format aims to foster the most important international event dedicated to food, capable of uniting the pleasure of taste with responsibility and respect for those who produce it and the environment. Thus, the experience and enjoyment of food and wine – one of the pillars of Salone – will go hand in hand with discovering the stories of the men and women who grow, farm and process food products sustainably around the world, and the places and traditions these foods are tied to.

Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre will explore some of the key issues connected with food production and consumption: from the role of young people and small-scale traditional producers for the future of agriculture, to the safeguarding of landscapes; from the fight for GMO-free farming to the protection of herders and small-scale fishers; from the need to strengthen the relationship between producers and consumers, to the promotion of responsible food choices made with awareness of their impact on health, the environment and the production system.

This year Salone del Gusto and Terra Madre are fully open to the public, offering visitors the opportunity to enjoy the tastes of Italian regions; to discover European, Asian, African and American food communities and Presidia and their unique products; to meet the people behind the 1,000 food gardens that Slow Food is establishing with African communities; and to participate in a wide range of food education activities for adults and children. The rich program includes conferences and debates, the popular Taste Workshops, Theater of Taste, Master of Food courses and meetings with the producers. These gastronomic journeys are lead by exceptional guides, such as well-established and emerging chefs, wine producers and food experts, offering unique opportunities to taste unusual foods and to get to know them intimately.

The future of food is the future of the planet and it is more crucial than even that we come together in Turin this October. A better, cleaner and fairer world begins with what we put on our plates, and our daily choices determine the future of the environment, economy and society.

Salone del Gusto and Terra MadreA Unified Event

Sneak Preview of the 2012 Event• 950 exhibitors, 300 Slow Food Presidia, producers and products from food communities from 130 countries• over 150 events including Taste Workshops, Theater of Taste and Master of Food courses• 25 Dinner Dates held at the region’s best restaurants• 50 conferences on current topics for producers, consumers, cooks and researchers• food education activities for children and adults• eating areas catered by Terra Madre cooks presenting their regions’specialty products• Many side-events, including Slow Food Editore presenting Osterie d’Italia and Slow Wine - guides to discover Italy’s good, clean and fair chefs and wine-growers

For the first time, the plenary opening ceremony – held in past years for Terra Madre participants only - is open to everyone: thousands of people from around the world who want to work together to develop a better future food policy.

The key theme of the event in all its guises is story telling: Slow Food invites visitors to discover producers, where they come from, their stories and their knowledge.

A World of Food to ExploreItalyHome to one of the richest food cultures in the world, each Italian region represents a unique heritage of foods, tastes and knowledge. Hundreds of small-scale producers will present their products - cheeses, cured meats, breads, oils, fresh produce and more – in regional exhibition areas.

EuropeThe exhibition area dedicated to the rest of Europe will travel from the warm Mediterranean land of oils, breads and cheeses to the beers, wines and sweets of central Europe, the agricultural diversity of the Caucasus, and the hidden treasures of the Balkans. Slow Food’s proposal for Europe’s future Common Agricultural Policy (CAP) will be highlighted throughout the area.

AfricaFrom Senegal’s salty millet couscous to Sierra Leone’s kola nut and Ethiopia’s forest coffee, the African area journeys across 20 countries and the continent’s environments, from the Sahara to tropical forests. Slow Food’s Thousand Gardens in Africa project will be presented by farmers from 26 countries – from Mali to Madagascar – at an African food garden set-up in the center of the exhibition space.

AsiaThe Asian continent is the birthplace of a large part of the world’s agricultural biodiversity and the exhibition space will express this extraordinary diversity by presenting varieties of products such as rice, millet and spice. The Asian universe of culinary traditions will be interpreted by cooks from several countries, including Korea, Japan and Malaysia.

Latin AmericaLatin America’s three major agro-ecological regions - the Andean, the Amazonian and the Mesoamerican – will be represented in this exhibition area along with some of the continents most important products: cocoa, coffee, honey from native bees and spirits such as mescal, rum and cachaça.

North AmericaNorth American countries present a selection of the foods and projects being promoted by Slow Food to bring consumers closer to the earth: farmers’ markets, education in schools and campaigns to promote eating better while spending less. This area will also focus on farming policies of the future, in particular the U.S. Farm Bill.

Salone del GustoA Brief History

Slow Food’s biennial international event was first held in 1996, organized together with the Region of Piedmont and the City of Turin. Since 2004 Terra Madre has been held simultaneously with the fair, and the Salone has developed progressively strong ties with its sister-event. The eighth edition of the International Salone del Gusto - held in October 2010 at Turin’s Lingotto Fiere and Oval - covered a surface area of 65,000 square meters and attracted 200,000 visitors, 30% of whom came from outside of Italy. The event included 910 exhibitors, 18 Italian regional exhibition areas, 288 Presidia from 47 countries and 1,500 accredited media from 65 countries and a program of activities that included 128 Taste Workshops, 14 Theaters of Taste, 24 Dinner Dates, 27 educational activities for children and 50 for adults and 29 conferences. With each edition, the Salone has grown in all areas in content, number of activities on offer and participants and has evolved thanks to the input from Slow Food’s projects and experience around the world. All these factors have helped establish the unique positioning of Salone del Gusto - a defining moment in the food and wine sector as well as a cultural, educational and networking event.Salone del Gusto is not only an important international fair for top quality food and wine, it is also an opportunity for food cultures to come together to share experiences, develop exchanges and promote the value of production regions. The Salone del Gusto brand is worth 2.35 million euro and the estimated financial impact at the local level nears 40 million euro (source: IP Finance Institute and ICM Research). The value of the entire media coverage (press, audio and video) – not including foreign press and the web – amounts to over 25.2 million euro (sources: AudiPress survey or statements by publishers).

Salone del Gusto: past editions – the figures

1996 – 7,950 m² 15,000 visitors (pilot edition of the event).

1998 – 38,770 m², 126,600 visitors, 700 journalists.

2000 – 43,850 m², 130,000 visitors, 2,000 journalists. Slow Food Presidia participate for the first time.

2002 – 50,000 m², 138,000 visitors, 2,200 journalists.

2004 – 50,000 m², 140,000 visitors, 2,400 journalists. First edition of Terra Madre is held.

2006 – 52,000 m², 172,400 visitors, 1,000 journalists. Low impact event management is introduced, using

innovative solutions to reduce waste, compensate for CO2 emissions and decrease other environmental

impacts.



Visitors at Salone del Gusto 2002-2010

2002 2004 2006 2008 2010

138,000 145,000170,000 180,000

200,000

Annual growth: + 5.1% +17.2% +5.9% +11.1%

Exhibitors at Salone del Gusto 2002-2010

500 500 509620

910

Annual growth : + 0% +1.8 % +21.8% +46.8%

2002 2004 2006 2008 2010

A Model for Low-Impact Event ManagementIn 2006, Slow Food’s commitment to environmentally friendly event management was developed in collaboration with Turin Polytechnic Industrial Design and the University of Gastronomic Sciences of Pollenzo and put into practice at the Salone. The outcome yielded excellent results in many different areas that continued to improve in following editions. In 2010, the experience developed by Salone del Gusto / Terra Madre event organizers and partners became a world model for the sustainable design of large-scale exhibitions and events.Salone del Gusto 2010 reduced its environmental impact by 65% compared to the 2006 edition. The goal for 2012 is to reach 85%.In particular, the low-impact event organization has focused on:1) use of environmentally friendly materials for set-up and graphic displays;2) increasing the lifecycle of the materials used for set-up and graphic displays;3) separated waste collection for recycling (in 2010 91.58 tons of waste were collected separately – 58.5% of the total – and the total waste dropped by 78.8 tons in comparison to 2008);4) improvement in packaging through promotion of new consumption models;5) use of biodegradable and compostable materials for take-away food service;6) reduction in energy consumption;7) reduction in paper materials produced for the event;8) maximized efficiency of transport and freight;9) food waste collection;10) provision of tap drinking water.

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o N

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ont

What are the key reasons for your participation in Salone del Gusto as an exhibitor?

How important is your participation in Salone del Gusto for the development of your business?

0% 20% 40% 60% 80%

70.5%

64.1%

61.1%

28.8%

22.9%15.8%

Increase product image and notoriety Positive impact on the business in general

Build relationships/contacts with potential partnersDirect sales during the event

Improved reputationTo keep track of current sector trends

7.4%

30.4%

48.0%

14.2%

Fundamental Very important

Important Marginal

60%50%40%30%20%10%0%

Source: Salone del Gusto. Impact on the economic development of the region and brand value survey carried out by the IP Finance Institute and ICM Research.

Terra MadreThe World Network of Food Communities

Slow Food launched the Terra Madre network of food communities in 2004 when 5,000 small-scale producers from 130 countries gathered in Turin, attracting unprecedented media attention to the issues they face. Today the Terra Madre network extends to 150 countries and includes representatives of all aspects of the food sector – farmers, fishers, producers, academics, cooks, youth and students. Their goal is to preserve, encourage and promote agriculture, fishing and food production methods that are respectful of nature, landscapes and traditions. The network focuses works in particular to promote the importance of regional identity, safeguard local crops and breeds selected by farmers over thousands of years and identify the most environmentally friendly production techniques - both traditional and innovative.The Terra Madre vision opposes indiscriminate development, focused on quantity and relying on large-scale intensive production, monocultures and external inputs (chemical fertilizers and pesticides that lower soil fertility) to meet food prices imposed by the global market. We all pay the price of these policies, but in particular it is the small-scale producers who suffer as they struggle to compete.

Following the 2004 Terra Madre event, world meetings have been held every two years in Turin, simultaneously with the Salone del Gusto. The meetings are organized with support from the Italian Ministry for Agricultural, Food and Forestry Policies, the Italian Cooperation to Development section of the Ministry for Foreign Affairs, the Region of Piedmont and the City of Turin.

Regional Terra Madre meetings have also been held around the world in many countries (Ireland, the Netherlands, Ethiopia, Brazil, Belarus and Austria, to name just a few), bringing together national networks of farmers, fishers and artisan producers to discuss and share their local knowledge and experiences. Beyond these national and international gatherings, the Terra Madre network is engaged in countless exchanges, projects and collaborations. Each year Terra Madre Day is celebrated on December 10 by the Terra Madre and Slow Food network – the most important worldwide event devoted to good, clean and fair local food.

Terra Madre Past Editions2004 – The first edition of Terra Madre brings together food communities from around the world, inviting thousands of delegates to Turin to share their experiences and discuss the future of food.2006 - The second edition focuses on the three key areas of knowledge that underpin the food system: the know-how of producers; the experience and creativity of cooks; and science, represented by over 200 universities.2008 –1,000 young people from around the world join the third edition, adding a youth movement to the growing network committed to the promotion of local and sustainable food production with respect for tradition. 2010 - Cultural and linguistic diversity are central to the 2010 edition, which highlighted the importance of safeguarding ethnic groups, indigenous languages and oral tradition and memory. The opening ceremony includes speeches in the native language of some of the world’s Indigenous communities.

A few figures from Terra Madre 2010:70 Earth Workshops1,557 food communities from 160 countries and five continents2,634 farmers, breeders, fishers and artisan producers560 cooks283 professors and representatives of research institutes771 students185 musicians1,143 volunteers

Geographic origin of participants

Participants by category

Africa and the Middle East 14%

Americas 28%

Europe 49%

Asia and Oceania 9%

2010Cooks 14%

Producers 62%

Academics 6%

Young people 18%

2010

Slow FoodAn International Association

Founded in Italy by Carlo Petrini in 1986, Slow Food is a non-profit international association with over 100,000 members worldwide. Today the association has national branches in Italy, Germany, Switzerland, the United States, Japan, the United Kingdom and the Netherlands (in order of creation); volunteers and supporters in 150 countries; 1,380 convivia – the association’s local chapters; and a network of 2,000 food communities committed to sustainable quality production.

Slow Food promotes the importance of the pleasure of food by learning to enjoy the diversity of tastes and cuisines, rediscovering local varieties, respecting the seasons, conviviality, landscapes, regions and local traditions. The association’s work has developed over the years to unite pleasure with responsibility for the environment and community, encouraging respect and study of food and wine that is produced by those who safeguard agricultural and food biodiversity in all regions of the world. The Slow Food philosophy is summed up by three simple adjectives, good, clean and fair: good in terms of the enjoyment we get from a food through its organoleptic qualities as well its links to traditions and identity; clean because its production respects ecosystems and the environment; and fair because it follows the principles of social justice in production and marketing.

Slow Food emphasizes the need for food and taste education and the gastronomic sciences as the best defense against poor quality and the standardization of food. It promotes the safeguarding of local cuisines, traditional production and endangered vegetable species and animal breeds and supports a new model of agriculture, which is less intensive, cleaner and based on the knowledge and experience of local communities - the only way to support positive development opportunities in the world’s poorest regions. Slow Food’s approach to agriculture and food production embraces a holistic view, bringing together aspects of the food system that are usually separated: social matters (such as the relationship between producers and consumers and fair conditions for workers), environmental issues (such as biodiversity protection, water resources and soil fertility, product distribution and sustainable packaging) and cultural concerns (such as safeguarding traditional knowledge). This approach comes from recognition of the deep interconnections between communities, and the complex relationships between production and consumption and between culture and environment. It is only by taking these steps that we can realize the true value of food, which offers us the understanding needed to act to solve the question of how to best feed the world now and in the future.

Over 100,000 members

1,380 convivia150 countries

What they say about us

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Il giro d’Italia

comincia a tavolaDAL NOSTRO INVIATO

LICIA GRANELLOTORINO

Che la festa cominci. Una settimana al via

dell’ottavo appuntamento con il Salone

internazionale del gusto-Terra Madre, in

programma a Torino, dal 21 al 25 ottobre.

Un evento che non ha riscontri nel mondo. Certo, esi-

stono dozzine di fiere importanti, saloni dove il cibo

è protagonista assoluto. Ma a fare la differenza qui è

la straordinaria qualità media delle produzioni in

passerella. Perché nei saloni di Lingotto Fiere perfi-

no i grandi nomi dell’industria alimentare si adegua-

no al livello dell’offerta esibendo il meglio.

Cibo e territori, didattica e approfondimento, im-

patto zero e cucine dell’Alleanza (con i Presìdi): ba-

sterebbe uno solo di questi temi per firmare un super

evento in qualsiasi angolo della terra. E invece, quel-

li di Slow Food hanno deciso di esagerare e così — tra

laboratori e teatri del gusto, appuntamenti a tavola e

incontri con l’autore, conferenze e degustazioni — il

tempo necessario per viaggiare dentro le vene del Sa-

lone sembra non bastare mai.

Intanto, l’ingresso: via Nizza 280, raggiungibile sia

coi mezzi pubblici che in auto (parcheggi in quan-

tità). Dopo la biglietteria, si entra nel Padiglione 5

(sponsor, istituzioni, libreria). Se siete fortunati, allo

stand Lavazza potreste incrociare il mitico chef cata-

lano Ferran Adrià, che proprio nei giorni del Salone

verrà affiancato nel ruolo di testimonial da Tonino

Cannavacciuolo, super chef sul lago d’Orta. Da qui, si

accede ai padiglioni interni, punteggiati di cartelli

arancioni, che segnalano i Presìdi, i piccoli gioielli

dell’agricoltura planetaria messi sotto tutela per ga-

rantirne la sopravvivenza.

Il viaggio comincia nel Padiglione Uno, dove sono

ospitati gli espositori esteri, dall’Islanda alla Corea, e

dove si trova l’Enoteca, forte di oltre duemila etichet-

te tutte da assaggiare, a cui si aggiungono trecento su-

pervini dislocati nell’annessa sala Slow Wine. Qui,

ogni giorno sono in programma degustazioni e si as-

saggiano le miniature gastronomiche di Davide Sca-

bin, chef bistellato del museo d’arte moderna di Ri-

voli, alla periferia di Torino. Per gli amanti di aperiti-

vi e long drink, tappa d’obbligo al nuovo Cocktail Bar

gestito dai migliori bartender italiani.

Al Due e al Tre, invece, trionfa il made in Italy, con

le regioni protagoniste in primis di percorsi del cibo,

assaggi guidati e show cooking. Subito all’esterno, ec-

co la struttura che ospita le Cucine di Strada, dove ci

si può sbizzarrire tra piadine al raviggiolo e ravioli al

vapore cinesi, mix di fast food planetario e virtuoso.

Una manciata di metri separa dall’Oval, che que-

st’anno oltre ai seminari di Terra Madre ospita l’altra

metà del Salone: laboratori del gusto, teatro del gusto,

incontri con l’autore e laboratori della memoria.

Molti gli appuntamenti. Occorre scegliere. Come se

fosse facile decidere chi merita di più tra Baroli stori-

ci e Romanée-Conti (entrambi alle 19 di giovedì),

rhum della Martinica e salami d’Italia (alle 16 di ve-

nerdì), formaggi dello Jura e whisky distillati cin-

quant’anni fa (sabato alle 19). Mettetevi il cuore in pa-

ce: riuscirete scoprire un decimo di quello che aveva-

te programmato. In compenso, alla fine avrete sco-

perto una quantità di cibi di cui nemmeno sospetta-

vate l’esistenza. Tutto il resto, fotografatelo. Avete

due anni di tempo per andare a trovare quell’extra-

vergine che vi ha rubato il cuore, prima che il prossi-

mo Salone vi proponga un nuovo ventaglio di oli im-

perdibili.

1. MIELI DI ALTA

MONTAGNAPadiglione 2-G060

www.aspromiele.it

2. LENTICCHIA

DI MORMANNO

Padiglione 3-U129

[email protected]

3. SIGNORA

DI CONCA CASALE

Padiglione 3-Q235

[email protected]

4. FAGIOLO CONTRONE

Padiglione 3-U046

domenico.tancredi@

fastwebnet.it

5. SALE DI CERVIA

Padiglione 2-L173

[email protected]

6. STRACCHINO

ALL’ANTICADELLE VALLI OROBICHE

Padiglione 2-G061

7. BISCOTTO DI CEGLIE

Padiglione 3-T162

[email protected]

8. MANNA MADONIE

Padiglione 3-R138

[email protected]

9. PROSCIUTTO

DEL CASENTINO

Padiglione 3-S198

[email protected]

10. ROVEJA DI CIVITA

DI CASCIAPadiglione 2-J205

[email protected]

11. PANE DI PATATE

DELLA GARFAGNANA

Padiglione 3-S166

[email protected]

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

VIAGGI LO ZOOM

� 32@

MERCOLEDÌ 13 OTTOBRE 2010

PER SAPERNE DI PIÙ

www.salonedelgusto.it

www.comune.torino.it

TorinoAprono la prossima settimana il Salone internazionale del gusto

e Terra Madrededicati all’eccellenza enogastronomica

Ecco un itinerario dentro il Lingotto per scoprire sapori mai vistiTRENTINO D’ANTAN

Andrea Daprà,

osteria “Alla Corte

dei Toldi” di Terzola,

Val di Sole, apre

un formaggio a latte

crudo vaccino

di malga datato1994

Degustazione

abbinata con Giulio

Ferrari Riserva

del Fondatore

della stessa

annata e miele

di rododendro Thun

Giovedì 21, ore 13

Sala Incontri

LE CITTÀ SLOW

E ANGELO VASSALLO

Docufilm di Piero

Cannizzaro

su Pollica (Salerno)

in memoria

del suo sindaco

e vicepresidente

di Città Slow, ucciso

il 6 settembre

Venerdì 22

ore 20.30, Sala Gialla

IL BAROLODI ALDO CONTERNO

Tra una chiacchiera

e una degustazione

del Vigna Cicala

(2006 e 2001) Carlo

Petrini racconta

Aldo Conterno,

settant’anni vissuti

tra i vigneti

di Monforte

e le botti di Barolo

Venerdì 22, ore 17

Sala Incontri

PICCOLI BIRRIFICI

CRESCONO Tutto quello

che avreste voluto

sapere sulle birre

artigianali

I protagonisti

della Guida alle birre

d’Italia 2011 Slow

Food guidano

la degustazione

delle loro migliori

produzioni

Sabato 23, ore 16

Area Laboratori

COSCE NOBILI

E CHAMPAGNE

Tre prosciutti

d’autore italiani –

Parma stagionato

trenta mesi, Bazzone

della Garfagnana

e San Daniele

– sfidano il Gochu

spagnolo

e il francese

Noir de Bigorre

Domenica 24

ore 13

Area Laboratori

ABRUZZODALLA CHITARRA

ALLA MUGNAIA

Uno degli ultimi

mastri mugnai Nicola

Di Lallo illustra

i segreti della pasta

alla mugnaia

e alla chitarra

Domenica 24

ore 11.30

Area Laboratori

GLI EVENTI

ILLU

ST

RA

ZIO

NE

DI J

ULI

A B

INF

IELD

Repubblica Nazionale

Tasting the Salone del Gusto

By

RATHA TEP

The Slow Food International founder and president Carlo Petrini has a very exacting

definition of globalization. It’s not using Romanian milk to make Italian cheese. His firm

retort to anyone who calls that globalization: “tutte balle” (all lies)! His food-focused vision

of the much-tossed-around term lies closer to two words interlinked by two symbols:

“Food +/= Places.” It’s the circular notion of terroir, of food being rooted to a specific

place, and of that place expressing itself through its food. It’s also the theme of the

International Salone del Gusto 2010, the eighth edition of Slow Food’s biennial celebration

of foods from around the world, which opened on Thursday in Turin concurrently with

Terra Madre.

Pride of place at this five-day food festival — which very much centers itself around place

— goes to the small-scale Italian producers: they had two large pavilions in the sprawling

Lingotto Fiere center. Among the highlights: the crema di olive from Caposella, run by the

30-something siblings Francesco and Elisa Petrucci, who prepare their crema with tiny,

handpicked Cellini olives grown on their family’s farms in Puglia. They’re packed in extra-

31CronacheCorriere della Sera Mercoledì 20 Ottobre 2010

TORINO — Il vento dell’Estsoffia sul Salone Internaziona-le del Gusto che si apre doma-ni a Torino. Sarà inauguratodal nuovo commissario euro-peo all’Agricoltura, il romenoDacian Ciolos. E con lui (pri-mo esponente Ue che parteci-pa a questa manifestazione),dai territori dell’Est debutte-ranno produttori, allevatori,coltivatori, molti di quali pro-venienti dagli ex Paesi del-l’Unione Sovietica. Entrano co-sì a far parte del grandemerca-to della terra che animerà glispazi del Lingotto. Dove i visi-tatori, attratti dai piaceri dellatavola e dai saperi antichi enuovi ad essa legati, incontre-ranno le figure più svariatedella galassia mondiale delGusto. Dall’artigiano, al vigna-iolo, allo chef di fama, al som-melier. Siamo all’ottava edizio-ne e l’impresa di tenere insie-me la cultura del cibo e del vi-no del pianeta, con i suoi nu-merosissimi protagonisti,può riuscire soltanto al grup-po appassionato dei militantiSlow Food e alla loro potenzao r g a n i z z a t i v a , t r aimprenditorialità e volontaria-to.

Non si tratta di una sempli-ce fiera espositiva, però. Die-tro, c’è la filosofia del «buono,giusto e pulito» di Carlin Petri-ni, fondatore e guida carisma-tica del movimento dellechiocciola. Che guarda adogni angolo della Terra, attra-

verso le molteplici comunitàdel cibo (non a caso, primadell’apertura del Salone, ci sa-rà la grande assise di TerraMa-dre, composta da delegazioniprovenienti da tutto il mon-do, che interverranno parlan-do le loro lingue ancestrali).Il percorso dentro i Padiglio-

ni del Lingotto (accoglienza al5, poi Slow Food Educa è...,quiz per giovani emeno giova-ni, mercato del Salone, PresidiItaliani e internazionali, Mer-cati della Terra, Cucine di stra-da eccetera) è lineare ci siorienta facilmente. Va da séche, a seconda degli interessi,si decide dove fermarsi. Ad os-servare e degustare. Per esem-pio, seguendo, nel padiglione1, le provocazioni gastronomi-che di Davide Scabin del Com-bal Zero di Rivoli (Torino) oassaggiando all’Enoteca unodelle 200 etichette in degusta-zione.Da segnalare, in proposito,

l’uscita della nuova GuidaSlow Wine 2011, con 2.100cantine visitate e i relativi«giudizi». Che tali non sonoin senso stretto. La nuova li-nea è: piccoli racconti di terri-tori, di viti e di vini. Uno dei

punti di forza del Salo-ne del Gusto restano iPresidi. Il senso dell’ini-ziativa è quello di far co-noscere e quindi salva-re, attraverso aiuti con-creti, i prodotti che ri-schiano di estinguersi, as-sieme alla memoria stori-ca della Terra. Nel corso de-gli anni, i Presidi promossida Slow Food hanno raggiun-to quota 288 (182 italiani, 106internazionali da 46 Paesi). Edecco, in questa edizione, affac-ciarsi l’Est, con gli alimenti ele lavorazioni antiche. Ne citia-mo alcuni: Presidio del Branzade Burduf, formaggio (Roma-nia); Salsiccia di ManganicaKiskunsag (Ungheria); PecoraKarakachan (Bulgaria); Funda-tia Adept Transilvania, confet-ture dei villaggi sassoni (Ro-mania), Summer Presents,produttori di conserve (Rus-sia); Vini georgiani (Georgia),Slatko di fichi selvatici (Mace-donia).Per i gourmet: i Laboratori

del Gusto (indicati nel pro-gramma, da prenotare), cioèle famose degustazioni guida-te di Slow Food, con traduzio-ne simultanea italiano/ingle-se. Al Teatro del Gusto, i piattisimbolo di chef italiani e inter-nazionali, che svelano i segre-ti delle loro ricette. Atmosferapiù intima, infine, è riservataagli Incontri con l’Autore e aiLaboratori della Memoria: vi-ni prestigiosi e prodotti esclu-sivi, incontrando da vicinograndi personaggi.

Marisa Fumagalli© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

Torino Sono saliti a 288 i presidi di produttori di Slow Food

Polonia

La rassegna

Vini georgiani e cibi bulgariI gourmet scoprono l’EstLaboratori e incontri, apre il Salone del Gusto

L’Europafermagli alimenticlonati

di LINA SOTIS

F ranca Sozzani portaConvivio all’outlet

di Fidenza Village,dove passano 3 milionidi persone l’anno.Con la fata bionda dellamoda, spendere diventauna buona e soprattuttoparsimoniosa azione afavore della lotta all’Aids.Tutti assolti a fare spese

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

RomaniaA destra,unaconfetturaprodottaneivillaggisassoni,inRomania

Ricette celebriQui Lina

2 3

Per cinque anni

4

I voltiI ritratti di alcuni esponentidella rete mondiale creata daTerra Madre (Foto Blulab)1)Manjit Gill (India)2)Merveille SènanMarie-Christel Monde (Benin)3) Ion Ciocian (Moldavia)4) Alexis Chapman (NuovaZelanda)5) Jörgen Calmsund (Svezia)6) Lyubov Kurganova (Russia)

La comunitàTerra Madre è stata creatada Slow Food nel 2004e raggruppa «comunitàdell’alimentazione» impegnate,ciascuna nel suo contestogeografico e culturale,a salvaguardare la qualità delleproduzioni agro-alimentarilocali (l’assise si svolge inconcomitanza con il Salone)

5

6

1

Il programmaIl Salone del Gusto2010, in programmada domani al 25ottobre, si svolgerànegli spazi delLingotto di Torino(info 0172.419.611)

I numeriGli espositori saranno910, raggruppati in17 aree territorialiregionali italiane.I presidi saranno288, di cui 182italiani, 106internazionali,provenienti da 46Paesi. Nellasuperficie espositivadi 65 mila metriquadrati sialterneranno 128Laboratori del gusto,14 Teatri del gusto,24 appuntamenti atavola, 12 incontricon l’autore e 27percorsi per bambini

Alla kermessele degustazioni guidatee i grandi chef chesvelano le loro ricette

[email protected]

DAL NOSTRO INVIATO

STRASBURGO— LaCommissione europea haannunciato la sua propostadi blocco per cinque annidell’uso di animali clonatiper l’alimentazione, che hasollevato polemiche nellaparte sollecitata dalleimprese Usa del settoreperché lascia aperti spaziritenuti eccessividall’Europarlamento. Inparticolare il principio diimpedire alla carne, latte eformaggi delle varie pecoreDolly di finire sulla tavoladei cittadini europei diventaambiguo e meno rigidoquando si tratta dei suoifigli, nipoti e pronipoti.L’istituzione di Bruxelles hadato il via libera ancheall’importazione dimateriale riproduttivo percloni come seme edembrioni purché siaricostruibile la provenienza.A Strasburgo ilprocedimento diconciliazione tra laCommissione e glieurodeputati, nell’ambitodel dossier Novel food,punta ora a chiudere glispazi lasciati aperti dallalinea del commissariomaltese alla Salute e allaprotezione dei consumatori,John Dalli, per evitarecontenziosi commerciali congli operatori Usa esudamericani del settore.L’Europarlamento vuoleevitare che il bloccoassoluto sull’uso alimentaredegli animali clonati possaessere aggirato con prodottiricavati dai loro discendenti.«Io credo che questo bloccotemporaneo costituisca unasoluzione realistica», hasostenuto Dalli. «Le sceltesulla sicurezza alimentarenon possono esserecondizionate dagli interessieconomici e dalle relazionicommerciali con gli Usa e iPaesi sudamericani, dove laclonazione a fini alimentariè diffusa», ha affermato ilvicepresidentedell’Europarlamento GianniPittella del Pd, che guida laconciliazione legislativa.

Ivo Caizzi© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA

Fette di Oscypek,il formaggio

polacco a formadi fuso, in mostra

al Salone.Sui Monti Tatrai pastori batza a

maggio raccolgonole pecore

tra gli 800 e i 1500metri. Nellabasutzka

(capanna di legno)accendono

il fuoco per lacaseificazione

e l’affumicazionedei fusi

La reteche difendele tradizionilocali

mo

re

sc

hi.it

G 2010 יום ה’ | י”א כסלו תשע”א | 18 בנובמבר

אוכל

"סלון הטעמים" בטורינו, הידוע גם כפסטיבל האוכל הבינלאומי של תנועת הסלואו פוד, הוא חגיגה קולינרית של טעימות, לגימות,

סדנאות ושל מפגשים בין יצרני בוטיק, שפים, יבואנים וחובבי אוכל ויין. יובל בלנקובסקי

חזר מחמישה ימים של שיכרון חושים

בית הספר היסודי של טורינו, המגיעים ליום לימוד בפסטיבל. הם מאזינים ברוב קשב למורתם, המרצה על הסוגים השונים של תפוחי העץ המקומיים ועל

הבדלי הטעמים ביניהם. בין הדוכנים מסתובבים יבואנים של מזון גורמה, מסעדנים ושפים מרחבי העולם הבאים כדי לדוג עוד מוצר מזון ייחודי או טכניקה חדשה להכנת גבינה או נקניק. בין המבקרים בפסטיבל האחרון זיהיתי כמה אל ממסעדת עבאס חוסם השף מוכרים: פרצופים שהוצגו ייחודיים עגבניות בזני שהתעניין באבור, הבעלים מוחרובסקי, שלום המסעדן את בפסטיבל; ומוצרי יין ביבוא גם שעוסק ים, מול מסעדת של ראש מפאוזה, רותם אביגדור ואת ייחודיים; מזון את שלומד העליון, בגליל פוד הסלואו קבוצת של המיובש החזיר ירך הפרושטו, הכנת טכניקת

האיטלקים. יותר הרבה האוכל לחובבי מציע הפסטיבל מהסתובבות בין הדוכנים ומטעימות. במסגרת הפסטיבל מתבצעות טעימות מודרכות, Taste Workshop - שבהן

1. שוק הפטריות. הסתיו במיטבו

2. דקדוקי פרמזן. מיטב יצרני הבוטיק מתרכזים כאן

3. רחרוח כמהין. הפטריות נמכרות בפיקוח

שופט כמהין מוסמך4. הפרושוטו, ירך חזיר מיובש. פורסים ואוכלים

במקום5. עגבניות ממגוון סוגים. זנים ייחודיים 6. גבינה מקומית.

ברוח תנועת הסלואו פוד 7. שוק הדגים.

סרטנים ופירות ים מהמשובחים שיש

מחוז פיימונטה )Piemonte( ידוע לא רק בנופיו העטורות בגבעותיו גם אלא המרהיבים, הרי של המרהיב הנוף נשקף שמהן גפנים, שורות האלפים. המחוז הצפוני של איטליה היטלטל לאורך האיטלקית, לזו הצרפתית התרבות בין ההיסטוריה ספוג דופן, יוצא קולינרי עושר מציע הוא ועכשיו ושל איטליה של המפוארות המטבח במסורות המקומיים הגלם חומרי של שמעם יחד. גם צרפת גבינות ברולו, יינות כמהין, פטריות למרחוק: יצא מעולות ושוקולד משובח. הסתיו הוא ה-עונה להגיע לאזור, בעיקר מבחינה גסטרונומית. שני פסטיבלים אליהם מקבצים באזור הגורמה למאכלי המוקדשים מגוון רחב של פיינשמעקרים מרחבי העולם, שבאים

לטעום ולרחרח את נפלאות המחוז.מתרחשת ביותר הגדולה הקולינרית החגיגה בטורינו בסלון הטעמים )Salone Del Gusto(, פסטיבל האוכל הבינלאומי של תנועת האוכל סלואו פוד. אחת לשנתיים מתקבצים בטורינו מיטב יצרני הבוטיק של גבינות ושל נקניקים מרחבי אירופה. כאן תוכלו לטעום

טעימה מהחיים

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מתכונים

מסורתי באופן הנשמרת מסיציליה, גבינה למשל בעלה כרוב. הרקב המיוחד של עלה הכרוב מתפשט על דופנותיה ומעניק לה ארומה וטעם ייחודיים; או לטעום מהעיר קאלוויסיוס חברת של היוקרתי הקוויאר את ללא בטעמיו, ועדין שחור קוויאר באיטליה, ברשיה מלח, שמחירו מאמיר עד מעל ל–100 שקלים לעשרה

גרמים.

פרושוטו ושמפניה, למשלבאולמות התצוגה הענקיים נפרסים מאות דוכנים, מרכולתם: מיטב את ולמכירה לטעימה המציעים לפרוסות נפרס תיבול בעשבי ממולא ענק חזיר 30 בן ממודנה בלסמי חומץ ככריך; ומוגש דקות שנה, ומגוון רחב של קינוחים מסורתיים מסיציליה, הממולא אפוי( בצק גליל ,Cannoli( קנולי כמו בממרח או ובצימוקים מתוקה ריקוטה בגבינת המבקרים בין לאגדה כבר שהפך מתוק פיסטוקים הקבועים באירוע. במהלך הפסטיבל, הנמשך חמישה ימים תמימים, אפשר לחזות )ואולי גם לקנא( בילדי

14

5

2367

צילומים: גילי מצא, יח"צ

אוליבה אסקולנה)זיתים ממולאים בבשר(

לאנקונה הסמוכה אסקולי, העיר המתכון: על המעולה הרחוב באוכל מפורסמת באיטליה, מהמנות אחד הוא כאן שמוצג המתכון שלה. מתוך ביד, נאכלת המנה בשוק. טעימות היותר

צלחת או בתוך קופסת קרטון, ברחוב.בזן )השתמשו מגורענים זיתים כ–50 חומרים: )באיטליה גרם בשר טחון 150 אוהבים(, שאתם בשר טחון הוא בדרך כלל תערובת של בקר ובשר לבן. שומרי כשרות יכולים להשתמש רק בבקר. כדאי לבקש מהקצב להוסיף מעט שומן(, 5 שיני חלבונים, 2 מלח, קצוצה, פטרוזיליה כוס שום,

פירורי לחם, שמן לטיגון.עם כתוש, שום עם הבשר את מערבבים הכנה: פטרוזיליה ועם קצת מלח )לפי הטעם( וממלאים הזיתים את מגלגלים מהבשר. קצת זית בכל מטגנים מכן ולאחר לחם, ובפירורי בחלבון במהירות בשמן עמוק עד שהם מזהיבים. אפשר או הבשר, לתערובת דבש מעט ולהוסיף לגוון

לערבב עם קצת לימון כבוש.מתכון של מיקלה רומיץ, האחראי מטעם תנועת סלואו פוד על מדינות המזרח התיכון, מזרח אירופה והבלקן

תאנים ממולאותבדבש שימוש עשיתי זה במתכון המתכון: על ענבים. זהו דבש שמיוצר בין אוקטובר לנובמבר ערים אלה - במקרה ולא ובאיסטנבול, בחברון שותות שאינן מוסלמיות אוכלוסיות בעלות ענבים. של גדולות כמויות גדלות ובשטחה יין, - ובחברון פקמז נקרא הזה הדבש באיסטנבול המזרחית; בירושלים אותו להשיג ניתן דיבס.

כדאי לבקש את הדבש בלי הסוכר, זה הטבעי. חומרים: כוס בורגול דק, כוס פטרוזיליה קצוצה, חופן תמרים מזן מג'הול קצוצים גס, חופן צימוקים חופן )"זרש"(, חמוציות חופן לבנים, או שחורים דבש קצוצה, טרייה נענע כוס חצי צנוברים,

ענבים )אפשר להחליף בסילאן(, 12 תאנים.במים דקות כ–5 הבורגול את משרים הכנה: רותחים, עד שמתרכך. מערבבים עם הפטרוזיליה, ועם הצימוקים התמרים, הצנוברים, הנענע, קטנה, בכפית התאנים את מרוקנים החמוציות. מעט מוסיפים לתערובת. התוכן את ומוסיפים לקבלת עד ומערבבים סילאן, או ענבים דבש צריך. אם ומשפרים טועמים אחידה. תערובת ממלאים את התאנים בכפית קטנה, מניחים אותן

על צלחת ומקשטים בדבש ענבים.מתכון של רפרם חדד, המתאם של תנועת סלואו פוד בישראל

בהתאמה פרושוטו, של שונים סוגים לטעום אפשר בפאנל מלווה הטעימה למשל. צרפתיות לשמפניות מומחים, שמסביר את עקרונות ההתאמה בין השמפניה למנות שונות. בסדנה אחרת מרצה בצניעות הבעלים של היקב האגדי רומנה קונטי, הנחשב לאחד היקבים לצד טעימה של הייננית על משנתו בעולם, הטובים

שניים מיינותיו היוקרתיים.המפורסמת הפרמזן לגבינת המוקדשת בסדנה כיכר של הפורס גבינות, חיתוך באומן לחזות תוכלו העז הטעם שנים. 16 במשך שיושנה פרמזן גבינת ויופיע לנצח ייחקק מבטיח, הוא בפיכם, שיתפשט האיטלקית. הגבינה את שתפגשו פעם בכל כזיכרון מחוץ אל גם בערבים מתפשטת הקולינרית החגיגה נערכות לעיר הסמוכות עתיקות בטירות לטורינו. בעולם, השפים בכירי על–ידי יוקרתיות שף ארוחות מיפן סושי מומחי של ארוחות לצד דוקאס, אלן כמו המציעים האיטלקי, מהמטבח עולים כוכבים של או

פרשנות מקורית למטבח האיטלקי המסורתי.>

61 | G יום ה’ | י”א כסלו תשע”א | 18 בנובמבר 2010

לאכול בפיימנטה

6 0 G E S E L L S C H A F T F R A N K F U R T E R A L L G E M E I N E S O N N T A G S Z E I T U N G , 7 . N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 0 , N R . 4 4

D ie Weißweine Burgundsgelten vielen älteren Wein-freunden nach wie vor als

qualitative Spitze des trockenenWeißweins – und das nicht ohneGrund. Wenn der Vigneron – alsoder Winzer – in Weinberg undKeller alles richtig hinbekommt,kann die Chardonnay-Traube Wei-ne ergeben, die zugleich körper-reich und elegant sind, kraftvollund vielschichtig. Deshalb – aberauch weil der Chardonnay resis-tent gegen Hitze und trockene Bö-den ist – wurde er quasi überall auf„Planet Wein“ gepflanzt, so dasser sich zum Inbegriff des globali-sierten Weißweins entwickelt hat.Den Erfolg der Weine aus seinerHeimat hat dies nur gesteigert.

Die Preise sind in die Höhe ge-schossen. Dabei entspricht die Qua-lität leider nicht immer dem Poten-tial, und selbst schwache Weine fin-den ihre Abnehmer. Kein Wunder,dass jüngere Kenner Burgund nurselten als Quelle weltbester Weiß-weine nennen. Sie rühmen viel-mehr die deutschen „Großen Ge-wächse“, die Wachauer „Smarag-de“ und ähnlich konzentrierte Ge-wächse aus Weinbaugebieten Nie-derösterreichs – und auch das nichtohne Grund. Diese vergleichsweiseneuen Kategorien für trockene Spit-zenweine aus dem deutschsprachi-gen Raum sind für die Weißweiner-zeuger Burgunds seit Jahren eineernsthafte Konkurrenz.

Es stellt sich die Frage, ob es ausBurgund überhaupt noch sehr gutetrockene Weißweine gibt, die we-der zu teuer sind noch zu sehr vomEichenton dominiert – ein weite-res häufiges Problem. Glücklicher-weise räumen Winzer wie NicolasCheveau in Solutré-Pouilly imCôte Mâconnais solche Zweifelaus. Seit langem gilt das Mâcon-nais als Quelle für ansprechendeAlternativen zu den gesetzlich hö-her eingestuften Weinen aus denPremier-Cru- und Grand-Cru-La-

gen der Côte d’Or. Allerdingsschmecken die Weine von NicolasCheveau nicht im Geringsten wieAlternativen zu irgendetwas ande-rem, sondern sind allesamt starkund eigenständig. Auch wenn dieWeinberge hier bis fast 400 Meterüber den Meeresspiegel reichen,herrscht ein recht freundliches Kli-ma. Zusammen mit den kalkhalti-gen Böden führt dies oft zu ziem-lich fülligen Weinen.

Trotz seiner Kraft besticht Che-veaus 2009er Mâcon Solutré-Pouil-ly „Sur le Mont“ (11,50 Euro vonViniculture, Telefon 0 30/8 83 81 74) durch Frische und einenlebhaften Birnenton, der die Ge-schmeidigkeit nur zart andeutet.Mit seiner ausgeprägten Note vonfrischen Kräutern ist der 2008erSaint-Véran „Terroir Davate“(13,50 Euro von Viniculture) nochfiligraner mit lang anhaltendem mi-neralischen Finale. Auch bei Che-veaus Spitzenwein, dem Pouilly-Fuissé „Les Vieilles Vignes“, istder Eichenton vom Holzfassaus-bau vorbildlich dezent und fein.Der Jahrgang 2007 (21 Euro von Vi-niculture) wirkt cremig und ge-schmeidig, aber keinesfalls ausla-dend und außerdem eindeutigherb, mit subtilen Noten von ge-trockneter Birne, Zitronat und fri-schen Kräutern. Noch üppiger,mit einer Blütenhonignote, ist derJahrgang 2006 (ebenfalls 21 Eurovon Viniculture) bereits auf seinemHöhepunkt – ein prächtiger Wein,der zeigt, warum Burgund, wenndenn alles stimmt, immer noch ei-nen besonderen Ruf für trockeneWeißweine verdient.

W enn man mitten in derSalzburger Altstadt inein Restaurant gehen

will, kann man auch Pech haben.Oft ist die Stadt so von Touristenüberlaufen, dass die Atmosphärekippt. Man fühlt sich inmitten vonAmerikanern, Japanern und Chine-sen wie in einem Flughafenrestau-rant mit alpinem Touch.

Die interessanteren Restaurantsfindet man eher ein wenig jenseitsder Trampelpfade der Altstadt.Nach einem kleinen Fußwegdurch die altertümlichen Gassenrund um den Mönchsberg stehtder Gast plötzlich vor einem hoch-modernen Bau, der zwischen denalten Häusern kaum zu finden ist.Es ist das „Magazin“, eine Art kuli-narisches Zentrum mit Bistro,Bar, Restaurant, einem edlen Fein-kost- und Weingeschäft und weite-

ren Räumlichkeiten, die man spek-takulär an und in die Felsen desBerges gebaut hat. Das Gourmet-restaurant liegt in der „Kaverne“,einem alten, mit wenigen Eingrif-fen geschickt modernisiertenRaum im Mönchsberg. Er hat einTonnengewölbe, viel rohen Betonund erinnert einen winzigen Mo-ment lang – pardon – an einenLuftschutzbunker. Trotzdem siehtalles ziemlich schick aus – inklusi-ve der Gäste, deren Altersschnittdeutlich unterhalb des Schnitts fürdie meisten besseren Restaurantsliegt. Normalerweise wirkt sich soetwas auch auf das Speisenangebotaus, das dann – gerade in Groß-städten – gerne einmal ein wenigverkrampft in Richtung Modernegetrimmt wird. Aber hier ist manin Österreich, und da haben fastimmer nur diejenigen Küchen Er-

folg, die irgendwie mehrheitsfähiggut schmecken.

Das Essen beginnt mit einer prä-zise abgestimmten Kleinigkeit, undzwar einem Glas mit einem leichtgelierten Rote-Bete-Saft plus Apfel-air, Sellerieblättchen und einer imMund platzenden Sphäre von Apfel-saft. Schon beim ersten Gang, dem„Wildhasen mit Bohnenkernen,Estragon und Paprika-Creme“(21 Euro) zeigt sich, dass die Kücheeinen schönen Mix zwischen einembodenständig-regionalen Aromen-bild und dezenten modernen Er-weiterungen schafft. Erst einmalwird der oft zu kräftig nach Wildschmeckende Hase durch eine deut-liche Pfefferkruste „entschärft“.Dann kommen die knackig gehalte-nen Saubohnen, die klare Paprika-creme und eine Reihe von Mikro-elementen dazu und sorgen füreine harmonische Einbettung desFleisches. Es schmeckt zwar nichtmehr besonders deutlich nachWildhase, dafür aber insgesamt ab-wechslungsreich und angenehm.

Das gilt ganz auch für die regio-nale Spezialität „Kalbsbeuscherlund Serviettenknödel“ (16 Euro),

die hier ineiner auffal-

lend süffigenForm angeboten

wird. Die „sauren Lungen“, wie siemanchmal auch genannt werden,sind wie üblich zu dünnen Streifengeschnitten und mit ebenfalls dün-nen Gemüsestreifen (Julienne) ver-

mischt. Diese Ergänzung und dieleicht süßliche Cremesauce dazusorgen für einen Geschmack, dernicht wirklich nach den Innereienschmeckt, ohne sie aber auch nichtmöglich wäre.

Beim Wein kann man sich sehrgut bei den vielfältigen einheimi-schen Weißweinen bedienen. Indiesem Falle wird ein 2006er Moril-lon Pfarrweingarten vom WeingutSattlerhof/Südsteiermark serviert(Glas mit 1/8 Liter 6,90 Euro).„Morillon“ ist dort der Name fürChardonnay, und die Kombinationaus deutlichen Holznoten und viel-schichtigem Körper gibt dem Es-sen eine größere aromatische Brei-te. Auch beim Fisch bleibt man beiregionalen Produkten. „Hecht undBlattspinat in Weißweinsauce,Stangensellerie-Ravioli“ (25 Euro)nennt sich das Gericht, das aber-mals eine angenehme Individualitäthat. Hier kommt sie von einemStangensellerie-Jjus und der Selle-riefüllung in den Ravioli, die zusam-men mit dem Spinat und auffallendwürzigen Kirschtomaten eine aro-matisch dichte, aber trotzdem sehrleicht wirkende Begleitung für den

Hecht ergeben. Der Fisch ist einwenig untergart, vermutlich um zuverhindern, dass er faserig wird. An-dererseits hätte er dann aber aucheinen etwas typischeren Ge-schmack.

Das angenehm individuelle Pro-fil hält sich auch beim „Zweierleivom Reh mit Herbsttrompeten,Maroni und herbstlichem Gemü-se“ (28 Euro). Hier ist der Grunddie Kombination der Pilze (als Stü-cke und Jus) mit den Maronen, dieRehrücken und geschmorte Schei-be ein wenig herzhafter wirken las-sen, als dies bei den oft süßlichenBegleitungen zu Wild sonst derFall ist. Und nachdem auch die„Soufflierte Topfenschnitte“ (11Euro) ohne jede unangenehme Ei-weißnote auskommt, bleibt der Ein-druck, dass das „Magazin“ ein imbesten Sinne unproblematischesRestaurant ist, in dem alles leicht,gut und immer wieder erfreulich in-dividuell schmeckt.Magazin, Augustinergasse 13a, 5020 Salz-burg. Telefon 00 43 (0) 6 62/8 41 58 40.Küche von Montag bis Samstag von 12 bis14 und von 18.30 bis 22 Uhr. Vorspeisen6,50 bis 22 Euro, Hauptgerichte 25 bis 32Euro. Internet www.magazin.co.at

Gibt es aus Burgundüberhaupt noch sehrgute trockene, nichtzu teure Weißweine?

HIER SPRICHT DER GAST

Die Ursprünge der Slow-Food-Be-wegung gehen auf den Protest ge-gen eine McDonald’s-Filiale 1986an der Spanischen Treppe in Romzurück. Ist der amerikanischeKonzern immer noch der großeGegner?

Nein. Es geht längst um das ge-samte Ernährungssystem. Die in-tensiven Produktionsmethoden,die die Fruchtbarkeit des Bodenszerstören, das Wasser vergiften,die Lebensmittel nur als Handels-ware betrachten – das steht imMittelpunkt unseres Kampfes.McDonald’s ist nur einer der Ver-ursacher.

Dabei gehen die ja inzwischen alsPR-Aktion mit frischem Gemüseauf Wochenmärkte und spielendie Guten . . .

Ja, das ist interessant und ein Zei-chen dafür, dass auch sie erkennen,dass ihr System nicht funktioniert.

Und Sie meinen, dass sich etwasändern wird? Ist es überhauptmöglich, die Welt in kleinenStrukturen zu ernähren?

Nichts muss entweder ganz weißoder ganz schwarz sein! Aber imMoment ist es vollkommenschwarz. Ich sage nicht, dass wir al-les umkrempeln müssen. Aber einwenig, ja, das ist möglich, und espassiert bereits. Ich bin gerade inden USA gewesen, und da ist un-glaublich viel in Bewegung bei denBauernmärkten: Vor zehn Jahrengab es etwa 100, heute sind es10 000! Natürlich ist das nicht al-les, gibt es immer noch die großenSupermärkte, aber immerhin. Esist wichtig, den Kontakt zwischenBauern und Konsumenten wieder-aufzubauen. Und das Interessantes-te ist, dass die jungen Menschendiese Veränderungen bewirken,auf politischer und sozialer Ebene,aber auch als eine Frage des Le-bensstils. Slow Food ist als Fein-schmecker-Bewegung entstanden.

Gerade in Deutschland gilt SlowFood oft als elitärer Verein . . .

. . . und wer gerne gut isst, soll da-bei bleiben, aber er soll um die Zu-sammenhänge und Hintergründewissen. Eine Bewegung wie SlowFood, die Terra Madre organisiert,ist nicht elitär. Terra Madre hatden Geist und das Wesen vonSlow Food verändert. Es ist ein in-zwischen sehr starkes Netzwerkvon Gemeinschaften in 161 Län-dern, und zwar sowohl reichen alsauch armen Ländern. Es geht dar-um, die lokale Wirtschaft zu stär-ken, die Ernährungssouveränität,die Biodiversität zu verteidigenund den Bauern Gerechtigkeit zuverschaffen. Terra Madre verleihtdenen eine Stimme, die sonst über-hört werden: den Urvölkern, denBauern, den Frauen und den Ältes-ten. Terra Madre ist nicht wie einepolitische Partei oder ein Verbandaufgebaut, sondern ein autonomesNetzwerk, das ständig wächst unddie Vielfalt respektiert. Es gehtnicht um Vorsitz oder Leadership,Terra Madre ist streng anarchisch.

Wie das Internet?Genau, das ist die Stärke von TerraMadre. Und das gefällt den Jun-gen. Wenn Terra Madre die Türenöffnet für die alte Politik mit denFührungsriegen, den Seilschaftenund ihren Gepflogenheiten, dannhaben wir verloren.

In vielen Slow-Food-Texten tauchtimmer wieder das Wort alt odersogar uralt auf. Sind denn weitzurückreichende Wurzeln einWert an sich?

Wer sich nicht erinnert, hat keineZukunft. Aber das Verteidigen derTradition darf keine Archäologiesein, Tradition ist fortwährende In-novation. Die große Aufgabe fürunsere Bewegung besteht darin,modernste Technik wie das Inter-net mit dem Wissen der traditio-nellen Bauern zu vereinen. Wersich nur an die alte Tradition klam-mert oder ausschließlich auf neueTechnik setzt, hat verloren.

Heißt das in der Praxis: RegionaleProdukte verarbeitet mit den Tech-niken von Ferran Adrià?

Immer reden alle von Adrià, wennes ums Kochen geht! Weltweitwird im Durchschnitt 99 Mal zuHause gegessen und nur einmalim Restaurant, und bei diesen 99Essen zu Hause kochen ganz nor-male Männer und Frauen. Wennwir das oben beschriebene Systemder Kombination von Überliefer-tem und Neuem anwenden, heißtdas, dass ihnen dabei moderneTechnik zur Verfügung steht wieein guter Ofen oder auch eine Mi-krowelle, aber auch, dass sie dieProdukte der Bauern verwenden,verantwortungsvoll damit umge-hen und die überlieferte Kücheweiterpflegen. Denn mit altemBrot lässt sich zum Beispiel mitein wenig Milch und Gemüse eineRibollita machen – Brot wirft mannicht weg. Ferran Adrià, ja, aberer ist kein Paradigma.

Wie steht Slow Food generell zuBio? Ist das eine Selbstverständ-lichkeit?

Die Entwicklung dorthin ist nichtaufzuhalten, und jeder bewegt sichdabei mehr oder weniger schnell.Wenn wir die Fruchtbarkeit derBöden wieder steigern wollen,dann gibt es keine Alternative.Aber das geschieht nicht überNacht, es ist ein kontinuierlicherProzess. Und Bio darf nicht Ausre-de für höhere Preise sein. Biomuss für alle sein. Wir müssen Bioin die Krankenhäuser und dieSchulen bringen, das bringt dasGanze wirklich weiter, nicht die ex-klusiven teuren Läden. Wir habenes mit den ganzen Zertifikaten undSiegeln übertrieben und dabeiübersehen, dass es eigentlich amwichtigsten ist, die Bauern selbstzu kennen.

Das ist allerdings nicht immermöglich . . .

Stimmt, aber in vielen armen Län-dern kostet die Zertifizierung in-zwischen mehr als die Produkteselbst, und das ist nicht richtig.Die Idee der Zertifizierung an sichist gut, aber sie ist inzwischen vielzu aufgebauscht. Mir ist es wichti-ger, den Bauern vertrauen zu kön-nen.

Slow Food ist in Italien entstan-den und dort nach wie vor sehrstark verankert. Jetzt schreibenSie auf der Slow-Food-Website,die italienischen Bauern stündenkurz vor dem Ruin. Hat SlowFood da gar nichts bewirkt?

Es ist ein weltweites Problem.Überall steckt die Landwirtschafttief in der Krise. Der Hauptgrunddafür ist der Werteverfall der Le-bensmittel, die immer mehr zu rei-nen Handelswaren verkommen,bei denen es nur noch um den

Preis geht. Das müssen wir än-dern, und zwar jetzt. Der hem-mungslose Konsum muss aufhö-ren. Es muss weniger produziert,weniger konsumiert und wenigerweggeworfen werden. Das erfor-dert Aufklärungsarbeit; eine Rie-senaufgabe. Slow Food und TerraMadre sind nicht sehr groß, ganzim Gegenteil, aber wir müssen ver-suchen, uns mit anderen Bewegun-gen zu verbinden, um an der Situa-tion zu arbeiten, wie zum BeispielVia Campesina (Anm.: eine inter-nationale Kleinbauern- und Land-arbeiterbewegung) oder Green-peace.

Sie haben sicher „Eating Ani-mals“ von Jonathan Safran Foergelesen – sollte der ideale SlowFoodler Vegetarier oder gar Vega-ner sein?

Ich bin ein Allesfresser, aber ichbin sehr dafür, den Fleischkonsumstark einzuschränken. Ich sage

nicht, dass wir alle Vegetarier seinsollten, aber weniger Fleisch als all-gemein üblich, das auf alle Fälle.

Sie sind Gründer und Gesicht vonSlow Food, von Ihnen kommen diegroßen Ideen. Es fällt schwer, sichdie Bewegung irgendwann ohneSie vorzustellen . . .

Wissen Sie, niemand auf der Weltist unersetzlich. Vor zehn Jahrenwar ich krank, ein ganzes Jahr langaußer Gefecht. Und alles lief bes-tens weiter, das liegt in der Naturder Dinge. Unsere Perspektive fürdie Zukunft ist die strenge Anar-chie von Terra Madre. Wenn ichsehe, wie unsere Idee sich in denRestaurants niederschlägt, wie siemit den Jungen Zugang zu denUniversitäten findet, sich über-haupt in den Köpfen ausbreitet:das ist die Zukunft, auch ohne Pe-trini.Die Fragen stellteUrsula Heinzelmann.

VON J ÜRGEN DOLL ASE

REINER WEIN

Carlo Petrini wurde 1949 in demStädtchen Bra im Piemont geboren,bis heute Hauptsitz von Slow Food.Dessen Anfänge liegen in den achtzi-ger Jahren: Der Methanolskandalwar für Petrini Anlass zur Gründungder „Freunde des Barolos“, das Vor-dringen von McDonald’s in die Innen-stadt von Rom führte zu einer Pro-testaktion in Form eines Spaghetti-Essens an der Spanischen Treppe –Slow Food gegen Fast Food. Offiziellgegründet wurde die Bewegung aller-dings erst 1989 in Paris. Zuerst be-schäftigte man sich mit gutem Weinund gepflegtem Essen. Doch für Pe-trini ging es bald um viel mehr; heu-

te heißt die Slow-Food-Parole „gut,sauber und gerecht“, womit die poli-tischen, sozialen und ökologischenDimensionen des Essens gemeintsind. Die „öko-gastronomische“Non-Profit-Organisation hat heute100 000 Mitglieder. Sie setzt sich füreine Vielfalt von Themen von derVerteidigung des Rohmilchkäses bishin zur Biodiversität ein und betreibtin Pollenzo eine gastronomische Uni-versität. Die wichtigsten Veranstal-tungen in Italien sind der Salone delGusto und das internationale Treffendes Netzwerks Terra-Madre in Turin,das unter anderem für die Rechteder Bauern kämpft. heinz.

VON STUAR T P I GOTT

„Magazin“ in Salzburg

„Der hemmungslose Konsum muss aufhören“Slow-Food-Gründer Carlo Petrini über McDonald’s, Wochenmärkte in Amerika und den Bauern von nebenan

Kunde trifft Bauer: Auf Wochen-märkten wird das gelebt, wasCarlo Petrini (Foto unten)propagiert – die Wiederent-deckung regionaler, nichtbearbeiteter Produkte, die sichjeder leisten kann.Fotos F1online, Schapowalow, AFP

Carlo Petrini und Slow Food

Chardonnayglobal

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Friday, Oct. 29, 2010

Slow Food: Can You Eat Well and

Save the World?

By Lisa Abend

At midday on Oct. 23, some 300 young people sat down to eat in a shopping mall in Turin, Italy. But instead

of the usual food-court fare of burgers and Cinnabons, lunch for these mostly 20-somethings consisted of

rice-and-broccoli salad, stewed sweet potatoes and hand-chopped beef tartare — all of it served on

recyclable paper plates draped with raw kale leaves. If that seems a surprisingly wholesome meal for the

setting, that's kind of the point: the "eat-in," organized by the Youth Food Movement — an arm of the Slow

Food organization — was devised in part as a protest against fast food. "By doing this and by making Slow

Food work, we're saying no to the industrial food that most people are forced to eat," says Gabriel Vidolin, a

21-year-old Brazilian chef who helped prepare the meal.

The eat-in was but one event at the 2010 edition of Terra Madre, a biannual international gathering that

brings together roughly 5,000 farmers, activists, chefs and everyday eaters from around the world for four

days of networking, mutual education and cheerleading. In its size and fervor, the event is a sign of Slow

Food's growing strength: 24 years after writer Carlo Petrini and a small group of fellow Italians first

protested the arrival of McDonald's in Rome's Piazza di Spagna, Slow Food has become a massive global

movement, with 100,000 members in 130 countries all working for food that is "good, clean and fair." But

in its twin dedication to both politics and lunch, Terra Madre lays bare the uncomfortable tension at the

heart of Slow Food: Is this about saving the world or eating well? (See TIME's pictures in "From Farm to

Fork.")

For Petrini, the answer is both. Although in its earliest incarnations Slow Food tended to emphasize the

pleasures of traditional ingredients and preparations, the organization is increasingly becoming more

political. In addition to working to protect traditional products, it is currently involved in projects to

improve school lunches around the globe and promote sustainable agriculture. At a press conference on

Saturday, Petrini announced plans to sponsor 1,000 gardens in Africa in the coming year and called "for

more politics in food journalism and less food porn."

And yet at the Salone del Gusto, an immense public fair of Slow Food–approved products that takes place as

part of Terra Madre, it was all food porn all the time. A robustly mustachioed man discussed the finer points

of cheese aging as he shaved crumbly samples of Parmesan from an immense wheel; a group of stout ladies

dressed in red strung golf-ball-sized tomatoes into bunches for hanging. Most of the 800 stands featured

Italian delicacies — cured meats, bronze-cut pastas, thin bottles of grappa — but 100 foreign "presidia"

Copyright © 2010 Time Inc. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.

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Препоръчване (4)

Още по тематаХрана за човекаД-р Георги Гайдурков, който лекува само с промяна в начина на хранене

26 ное 2010Изложението "Салон на Вкуса" в края на октомври в Торино е световна среща на участници от

хранителния и селскостопанския бизнес с подчертано отношение към устойчивото биоземеделие.

От четири години насам събитието тече паралелно със световния екофорум "Тера Мадре", на

който хранителни експерти от цял свят дават своя глас за екологичното и интелигентно хранене,

03/12/10 11:06

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/25 ное 2010, 14:59, 667 прочитанияКонсумирай отговорноХрани се бавно, мисли екологично, готви еротично –

акцентите на Salone Del Gusto 2010Виолина Тошева

SlowFoodFacebookTwitterEmail

Препоръчване (4)

Още по тематаХрана за човекаД-р Георги Гайдурков, който лекува само с промяна в начина на хранене

26 ное 2010Изложението "Салон на Вкуса" в края на октомври в Торино е световна среща на участници от

хранителния и селскостопанския бизнес с подчертано отношение към устойчивото биоземеделие.

От четири години насам събитието тече паралелно със световния екофорум "Тера Мадре", на

който хранителни експерти от цял свят дават своя глас за екологичното и интелигентно хранене,

Si chiama Rosario Rejas, hail volto scolpito delle conta-dine andine e un’età che èdifficile da definire. Ha intesta il cappello che sugli

altipiani serve per ripararsi dal solee addosso un vestitomulticolore cheai raggi di quel sole si ispira. La troviallo stand dei presidi Sudamericanie se quella parola esistesse nella suacultura potresti dirla una testimo-nial della Kanihua: «E’ un granomol-to leggero - spiega cercando di italia-nizzare lo spagnolo. - Ma riesce a da-re “fortaleza” alle persone deboli. Acoltivarlo siamo rimaste solo 22 fa-miglie. Grazie a Slow Food abbiamocreato un presidio e qui cerchiamodi farlo conoscere». E a vedere gliocchi di Rosario non puoi non dar ra-gione a Carlin Petrini, anima diSlow Food, quando ripete come hafatto ieri inaugurando TerraMadre:«I principali depositari dei saperitradizionali sono gli indigeni, i conta-dini, le donne e gli anziani, proprio lecategorie meno considerate oggidalle istituzioni e dai media». E Ter-ra Madre e il Salone del Gusto, ledue kermesse che si sono aperte ieriin parallelo, tra Palaisozaki e Lingot-to, alla presenza del ministro italia-no (Giancarlo Galan) e del commis-sario europeo (Dacian Ciolos) al-l’agricoltura vogliono essere, nelleintenzioni degli organizzatori, an-che un risarcimento per quella scar-sa considerazione.Così per cinque giorni quei conta-

dini e quei piccoli produttori diven-tano protagonisti. Come l’etiopeMa-lebo Mancha Maze, rappresentantedegli agricoltori di lingua gamo, cheha iniziato il suo discorso a TerraMadre, benedicendo i partecipanticon l’erba verde delle sue monta-gne. «Se vogliamo mantenerci in vi-ta e potermangiare – ha detto – dob-biamo saperci abbracciare tutti».Meno “ecumenico” l’intervento diAlbina Morilova, della comunità deinativi Kamchadal, di quel lembo diAsia che sia chiama Kamchatka:«Le grandi aziende pescano tutto;prendono il caviale per guadagnaresoldi, lasciando i rifiuti e gli scartidel pesce sulle coste dei fiumi e del-l’oceano. A loro non interessa se ilpesce risalirà i nostri fiumi anchel'anno prossimo, a loro non interes-sa per niente il futuro».E se dal Palaisozaki si passa al

Lingotto, cambia ilclimama i protago-nisti sono simili.Come il formaggia-io bretone che haportato qui i suoi«caprini» e non sisa se la gente da-vanti al suo standsia più incantatadallemille forme di-verse di quei for-maggi dalla scorzagrigia o dalla sua folta barba che halo stesso colore. O come i produttoridi baccalà norvegese arrivati con iloro merluzzi sotto sale (dall’odoreintenso) e le aringhe affumicate, ecercano di spiegare con le dita quan-to costano.

Il Salonediventa ancheuna cassadirisonanza per i problemi italiani di og-gi, così i produttori di pomodori dellaCampania espongonomanifesti di soli-darietà con laprotesta antispazzatura.E Petrini nel suo discorso spiega che il«rilancio dell’agricoltura italiana devepassare attraverso il ritorno alla terrada parte delle nuove generazioni (oggisolo il 7 per cento dei contadini ha me-

nodi 35 anni). Per fa-requesto occorrepe-rò che i produttorivengano rimuneratiil giusto, che si ridu-ca la burocrazia, chele banche diano ac-cesso al credito conpiù facilità»,Il rischio, in caso

contrario, è chescompaiano queiprodotti che adesso

sono le perle del salone, capaci di at-tirare una folla che anche quest’annofa la coda davanti agli stand, per as-saggiare in punta di forchettina le oli-ve infornate di Ferrandina o il panedi Castelvetrano, il salame di Fabria-no o la ventricina del Vastese.

ESORDISCE«SLOW WINE»: UNA GUIDAAI VINI D’ITALIA E UNO SPAZIO AL SALONE

PERDEGUSTARE STORICHE ANNATEDI 1800 AZIENDE DI TUTTO IL MONDO

BANDIERE DI TUTTO IL MONDO PER LA CERIMONIA D’APERTURADI TERRA MADRE AL PALAISOZAKI. NON SOLO IL FOLKLORE

DELLE TRADIZIONI MA ANCHE I PROBLEMIDI SOPRAVVIVENZA CHE HANNO I CONTADINI E I PESCATORI

SONO NUMEROSI GLI AGRICOLTORI VENUTI A FAR CONOSCEREI PRODOTTI DELLALORO TERRA. TRA QUELLI ANDINI,

UNA COPPIA IN ABITI TRADIZIONALI PROMUOVE LA KANIHUA, GRANOLEGGERO, COLTIVATO SOLO DA VENTIDUE FAMIGLIE

PER IL PRESIDENTE DI SLOW FOOD,ANIMADELSALONE, IL RILANCIO DELL’AGRICOLTURA

ITALIANANON PUÒNON PREVEDERE«ILRITORNO ALLA TERRA DI NUOVEGENERAZIONI»

IN QUESTA EDIZIONE DEL SALONE DELGUSTO È STATO RISERVATO UNO SPAZIOPARTICOLARE ALL’EDUCAZIONE ALIMENTARE DEI PIÙ PICCOLI,

«ORTO IN CONDOTTA». E’ UN MODO PER PROMUOVERLA ANCHE NELLE SCUOLE

SPECIALITÀ DI 160 PAESI TRA GLI STAND.DAI POMODORI DELLACAMPANIA AIFORMAGGIBRETONI, DAL BACCALÀ

SCANDINAVO AI DATTERI DEL DESERTO LIBICO

SI CHIAMA«SLOW FEVER»È LA GRANDENOVITÀDELSALONE.ALCUNI DEI «BARTENDER»

PIÙ FAMOSIDELMONDO PREPARANO«BLOODY MARY» O «MANHATTAN»

UN PRESÌDIO «ANOMALO» È DEDICATOAL SIGARO EXTRAVECCHIO

TOSCANO CHE RILANCIA LE ANTICHECOLTIVAZIONIDI TABACCO IN MAREMMA

Il vino slow

Dai cinque continenti Dal SudAmerica

Carlo Petrini

Bambini e cibo

Degustazioni

I re del cocktail

Tabacco

Al Lingotto c’è ancheGino Pa-oli: è qui non come cantautore,macomeproduttoredell’«OliodeiPaoli».

Come è nata questa sua se-conda «professione»?

«Potrei dire che non è nata inun momento preciso ma chec’è sempre stata. Perché queipoderi in Maremma doveadesso produciamo l’olio fu-rono la dote che mia nonnaportò amio nonno. Alcuni an-ni fa ho deciso con mio figlioche volevo fare l’olio più buo-no delmondo»

Ci è riuscito?«Quando vuoi fare una cosadel genere devi impegnarti almassimo.Così abbiamo cerca-to i cultivar della zona, li ab-biamo selezionati, ci siamomessi di buzzo buono. E quan-do dal frantoio è uscita la pri-magoccia del nostro olio è sta-ta un’emozione immensa. Era-vamo commossi. Peccato chequando, pieni di entusiasmol’abbiamo fatto assaggiare aun esperto, questo abbia stor-

to il naso: “Sa di mandorlaamara”, ha commentato. Ab-biamo riprovato e adesso ognivolta gli chiediamo come vacon lemandorle.

Produce solo per sé o an-che per gli altri?

«Adesso che il prodotto cisembra al livello delle attese,cerchiamo di commercializ-zarlo. E devo dire chemi sem-bra la parte più difficile».

Lei ha scritto, nel 1998, uncanzone come «Pomodo-ri» che diceva: «pensa unpo’ alla Norma senza me-lanzane, il purè di fave sen-za il cicorione». Che rappor-to ha con il cibo?

«Credo che il cibo esprima so-prattutto una cultura, che die-tro abbia una sapienza antica.In quello chemangi c’è il lavo-ro di generazioni. C’è la pas-sione di molte persone. E infondo volevo parlare anche diquesto quando ho scritto quel-la canzone e quell’album».

Ma tornando agli Anni 60,anche con «Sapore di sale»parlava di cibo?

«Sì, ma quel sale lì avevaun sapore diverso perchéera sulla pelle di una belladonna». [R. MOL.]

Video intervista a Gino Paoli

oggi nel sito www.lastampa.it

IL PATRIMONIO

Su chicchi di granoo aringhe affumicate

vivono intere comunità

domandea

Gino Paolicantautore

LA BATTAGLIA

Mari e campi minacciatida inquinamento

e sfruttamento intensivo

5

Paoli produce anche olio

Le storieROCCO MOLITERNI

TORINO

Presidi e bancarelle «La prima gocciadel mio olio

aveva più saporedi una canzone»

I contadini salgono in cattedraLecolture tradizionali e dimenticate sono protagoniste di TerraMadre e del Salone del Gusto

A Torino Le due kermesse targateSlow Food si sono inaugurate ierial Lingotto e al Palaisozaki

Petrini «I principali depositaridei saperi antichi sono indigeni, donnee anziani: i dimenticati del Pianeta»

VENERDÌ 22 OTTOBRE 2010 Primo Piano 15LA STAMPA

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