2. table of contentsEditors Note 4Appetising Bites 5Warning!
this may raise your blood cholesterol! 6Guide to sweet Edinburgh
7How to find your inner gourmet 9Is it Possible to Fall in Love
with a Potato? 11Old! But Not Boring. 13People, Lets Go Dancing!
14Royalty - a lost virtue today?- Not in Edinburgh! 16The Palace of
Holyroodhouse 18Craigmillar Castle 20How the Scottish Parliament
became what it is 22Grave Night Out 23Green Edinburgh 25The Botanic
Garden 26Visit Calton Hill! - Overlook Edinburgh! 28A Desert Island
is Only a Bus Journey Away 31The Amazing Coast 33For Arts Sake
34The Shadow over Edinburgh 35Four strings, three pipes, lots of
keys and a voice- or totally different 41Grassmarket: A Vintage
Haven 43Stand up for The Stand 45Fear and Loathing in Edinburgh
46Welcome to the House of Film 48Scottish Surrealism? 50Readers,
Writers and Speakers 52Secondhand But Twice as Precious 53Laddies
and lassies!!!Are ye ready for a wee blether?? ,...Aye, I guess?...
55Sounds of the Scots 58The fictional Edinburgh:
3. Drugs, Clubs, and Mr Hyde 60The Characters Behind the
Lines:The life and sorrows of 3 famous Scottish writers 62Just Walk
the Words! 65Newsroom! Quiz Night! Read All About It. 71Culture n`
Stuff 73The Spirit of Scotland 74Braveheart Country 76Kilts are
everywhere a short review about the Scottish national dress
79Edinburgh - Just a Traditional City? 81Big News from the Newsroom
84A day out for the young and the old,and everyone in between
85Travelling Beyond the Numbers 87The Pope is coming - how get
people affected?- A way through Scotlands world of religion -
89Small matters that matter Edinburgh examined with a fine - tooth
comb 91Edinburghs Unequal Faces Where Past and Future Come Together
94Good to Have a Plan! 96A place where traditionand modernity melt
into one 97The Perfect Saturday Morning 99From a Kilt to a Rolex
Shopping in Edinburgh! 101Tips and Tricks 103Highland Hospitality -
an unofficial rule 104INTERVIEW - Orlene, a university student
105Adventure: Public Bus! 107Snip n`Sip 108Glossary 108The Team
111Editorial 116
4. editors noteSo you think youve seen all the sights of
Edinburgh? Sure, youvepadded around the castle and been startled by
the one oclockcannon; youve strolled the Royal Mile and been
bombarded withoffers of tartan scarves and postcards; heck, youve
even chokeddown some haggis and Irn Bru in Deacon Brodies at the
height ofyour attempt to become acquainted with the Scottish
capital andits customs. But have you perused the second-hand
bookshops in theGrassmarket for some first-edition gems? Been
twirled around by astranger at a traditional ceilidh? Donned some
wellies and trekkedto one of barren isles of the citys windswept
bay? If not, youvemissed out on some of the finest cultural
offerings of Edinburgh, acity with an artistic spirit as hearty as
its inhabitants and a socialtradition as robust as its landscape.
Enter Back Alley Edinburgh, amagazine devoted to exploring the
underground facets of life in theBurgh that have yet to make it
into generic travel guides. Wevedone the dirty work of examining
the niche nooks and cranniesof Auld Reekies darkest alleyways, and
the cultural gems thatweve unearthed will intrigue even the most
conversant of visitors.Written for young and old adventurers alike,
Back Alley Edinburghis a guide for anyone whos a lass or laddie at
heart! So grab yourkilt, knock back a wee dram, and get ready to
delve into theshadowy alcoves of the city that even the Romans
couldnt conquer.Slainte!The Team
5. 6 appetising bitesWarning! This may raise your blood
cholesterol! Sticky, greasy fingers, paper wrap from your mouth, a
oil dripping dont like fried food, as long as you have a sweet
tooth and are in for drained with fat for some people a treat, you
should overcome your this may sound as much arepellant fear of
taking in far too much satu- for a meal as ants or spiders. But for
rated fat and try the famous Fried others, especially the Scots,
this makes Mars Bar. For the author, the best a perfect take-away
for lunch. Using way to have it is shortly before mid- batter and
vegetable oil, Scots are night on the Royal Mile. Stop by at able
to deep fry almost everything, the Clam Shell Take-Away on your and
as far as take-away shop staff tour through bars and pubs, and it
are concerned, there is nothing one will be freshly prepared right
be- cannot deep fry, including meat, fore your eyes. As soon as
your teeth potatoes, bread, vegetables, fruit, crush the thin
crispy batter and the cookies, sweets, and even ice-cream, hot
creamy caramel chocolate inside although the classic remains fish-
melts softly into your mouth youll fishn chips is still the all
time favou- know it is worth every single calorie. rite, despite
competition with haggis up here in Scotland. But even if you Text
and Photos by Luise Hausweiler So do you dare to risk your health
and/or figure? Check out these places: Clam Shell, 148 High Street:
Qui- te pricey, but still number one in Old Town Castle Rock Chip
Shop, 87 Grass- market: Close to the areas pubs For something
cheaper, try the ones along Leith Walk
6. appetising bites 7 Guide to Sweet EdinburghFudge- The sweet
treat Edinburgh Rock- The commercial oneFudge is made out of milk,
cream,butter, and Edinburgh Rock is a traditional Scot-sugar which
tish confection, and it is quite distinctis mixed from the hard
minty candy oftentogether found in seaside towns. Edinburghto make
Rock consists of sugar, water, andsmooth and cream of tartar. It is
formed intocreamy bars. sticks and has a soft and crumbly tex-While
you ture. In Edinburgh, you will find thecan buy best sugar canes
in all colours andpackaged fudge in supermarkets, I flavours, even
Irnwould recommend going to a more Bru. Nowadays,traditional place
like The Fudge almost all shops sellHouse. This shop, which is over
60 some sort of Edin-years old, sells handmade fudge in burgh Rock,
but ifa variety of flavours. You can have you want a morecaramel
(the most popular), coco- special place, trynut (my favourite), and
even peanut the I Love Candybutter, made especially for American
shop, a pretty pinkcustomers. In addition to the fudge, shop that
is an experience in itself.you can try something even more It has
loads of shelves filled withScottish, a treat known as tablet. It
sweets, and the air is filled with theis very similar to fudge, but
the tex- sweet smell of them. If you cantture is grainier. Still,
it melts in your decide on a treat, go for Edinburghmouth and
leaves a creamy feeling Rock, which can never go wrong.on your
tongue. The Fudge House isa traditional family business in which
Scones- The all-rounderquality and friendliness are most
im-portant- so when you stroll along What is one of the things
Britain isthe Royal Mile, make sure you stop most famous for? The
five oclock teaby to experience the sweet treat. of course, and
what would that be without scones, a fluffy kind of bread
7. 8 appetising bites with a crunchy outside. You can have to
order this delicious pudding. The scones plain or with raisins, and
they dessert consists of layers of raspber- are wonderful
accompanied by but- ries, cream, hon- ter, jam, cream, or clotted
cream. ey, oatmeal, and In Always Sunday, there is a great whisky
(of course choice of scones: they have apple it does- we are in and
cinnamon ones in addition to sa- Scotland!). Best to voury ones
with dive your spoon cheese. Here into the glass and you can enjoy
a taste all layers at scone at every once. I recently came across a
Cra- time of the day, nachan accidentally in The Worlds whether it
is for End. This pub also serves other breakfast or as food, so the
dessert is great after a small snack in a nice dinner. It might be
a bit ex- between meals. pensive, but it is worth every penny.
While the great- est variety can Text and Photos by Helene Hirschl
be found in Always Sunday, the best-quality scones are served in
Caf Truva in Leith. Here you get Box Fudge: Fudge House, 197 your
scones toasted and warm. On a Canongate, Royal Mile. Opening sunny
day, you can sit outside with Hours: Mon-Sat 10-6, Sun 11-6. your
scone, watch the Water of Leith, Price: 2.49 per 100 g. and relax
after a busy day in the city. Box Scone: Always Sunday, 170 High
Street. Mon-Fri 8-6, Sat&Sun Cranachan- The fancy one 9-6.
Price for Scones: 1.75. Caf Truva, 77 The Shore. 9-6.30 Although
Cranachan is a typical daily. Price for Scones: 2.10. Scottish
dessert, you cant always find Box Rocks: I love Candy, 38 it
easily. The best way to locate a Hanover Street. Opening Hours:
place that sells Cranachan is to look Mon-Sat 10-6, Sun 11-6. Price
for at all the restaurants and pubs you Rocks: 45 p. pass. If you
are lucky enough to find Box Cranachan: Worlds End, 4 one on the
daily menu, cancel all High Street. Opening Hours: Daily your other
plans and take your time 11-1. Price for Cranachan: 4.99.
8. appetising bites 9 How to find your inner gourmetSince
Edinburgh lies try thebesidethe sea shore, why not right fresh For
small budget foodies, how- ever, two places on Rose Streetseafood
that is offered at several might be the more interesting:places
around thecity? It wont costyou a fortune!Scotland has alarge
fishing areaaround its shoreswith seafoodfrom the Atlanticwest
coast as wellas the ShetlandIsles in the North.It is very popu-lar
throughoutScotland; in Ed-inburgh someof the fine butrather
expen-sive restaurants (e.g. Fishers Bistro On one hand, there is
the Mussel Inn,and The Shore Bar and Restau- which features a
maritime interiorrant) can be found on The Shore in with colourful
mosaics on the walls.Leith. While some places in the citys
Specializing in all kinds of seafoodOld Town are as pricey as those
at beyond just fish, it is the perfect placethe waterfront (like as
the Mus- to have a very first meal of mussels,sel & Steak Bar
on Grassmarket prawns, scallops and oysters. Go withand Creelers
Restaurant in Hunter some friends, order different startersSquare
just off the Royal Mile), all (3-5) or grilled platters (5-10),
andof them have attractive lunch time share not at all slimy! Even
betteroffers of two courses from a set and befitting the
restaurants namemenu for usually no more than 10. are the kilo pots
of mussels for only
9. 10 appetising bites 5.80, perfectly cooked in different ly
more than 10. The recipes are stocks that you can choose personally
down-to-earth but with a twist, a (for example, roasted pepper, Mo-
genius combination of main ingre- roccan, or blue cheese) -
delicious un- dients and lots of fresh herbs (for ex- til the last
drop that youll eventually ample, cider-smoked haddock with wipe up
with the warm fresh bread thyme mussels). While the bread is that
is refilled for free. not free, it is obvious- ly home-baked and On
the other hand, very moist and well- there is The Seadogs, a worth
the extra 0.95. quirky but classy place that is my personal fa-
Having seafood might vourite because of its be a culinary adven-
fantastic price-to-per- ture and gastronom- formance ratio. White
ically-virgin soil for walls, partly decorated you, but it doesnt
with ornamental wall- have to be expen- paper and various col- sive
or pure glibber. lections of wood and So when youre in red plastic
furniture, create a chic Edinburgh, sharpen your teeth but cosy
atmosphere. The menu in- and senses and broaden your ho- cludes
traditional Scottish seafood rizons on a delicious exploration!
dishes, like tomato chowder and high standard fish and chips (with
differ- Text and Photos by Luise Haus- ent sorts of fish like
plaice or trout weiler, Photo by Helene Hirschl to choose from), as
well as vegetar- ian meals like barley paella. During the daytime,
everything is around 5, but the wider dinner menu are also
reasonable- a dish costs rare- Seafood venues with great value for
money: Costs: usually 5 - 10 Seadogs, 43 Rose Street Mussel Inn, 61
65 Rose Street
10. appetising bites 11Is it Possible to Fall in Love with a
Potato?In terms of eating, vegetarians are body. Its cheap, its a
lot of food (the portions are over-generous), andoften at a
disadvantage. But for- its is very, very yummy. The shoptunately
Edinburgh offers a lot for only uses the freshest of
ingredients,the meatless people. At Cockburn and you can taste that
by far. An-Street, for example, there is an awe- other greatsome
store thing are thecalled The many fillingsBaked Po- to choosetato
Shop. from - farOf course, on too many toalmost every try all in
onesecond corner trip. Theyin Edinburgh are all prettyyou can buy
impressive,a baked po- with stag-tato, but this gering rangeis
without a of veggiedoubt the best place in the city to and vegan
options from peppersget a baked potato. For years, the and avocado
to chili, curry, cheeseshop has sold potatoes in every vari- and
beans, coleslaw, tuna, or sourations and sizes. The great cooking
cream. There are alternatives to theand good service of the Baked
Po- main stuff: mushrooms, cous cous,tato Shop keeps the customers
com- sweet corn, of course the delicateing through the door in
flocks. Even home-made soup of the day, variedif youre not a
vegetarian or vegan, selection of filled rolls, filled pittasthe
delicious taste of their potatoes or sausage rolls- the list of the
deli-is simply mouthwatering for every-
11. 12 appetising bites cious meals goes on and on. Being a
vegetarian or vegan has rarely felt better. These stuffed potatoes
are something you absolutely must try to com- plete a Scottish
visit. For dessert, you should try one of the home- made cakes, es-
pecially the vegan carrot cake. After sharing dinner with them. If
its good all that, youre likely to feel totally weather, find a
place along the Roy- pigged out, but its absolutely worth al Mile
to sit down, eat, and watch it. The Baked Potato Shop is mainly the
world go by. You will love it! a take-away shop, but you will find
a very small square table with a Text and Photos by Nadine Massag
bench. Why dont you try to have a sit? Frequently, you will meet
complete strangers there with excit- ing and funny stories from
around the whole world, and you will love Where to find: 56 Cock-
burn Street Edinburgh EH1 1PB Costs: From 1.40 to 4.00
12. 14 old but not boring People, Lets Go Dancing! ...B ut not
the kind of dance where you dont move away from the safe spot you
found somewhere on the dance floor, hardly moving your body and
only rhythmically nodding with the head to the base drum. No! Well
be going to a Ceilidh! ...Excuse me, what, you ask? The name
Ceilidh is Gaelic and has its origin in the Highlands.
Traditionally, clans always had to arrange their In Edinburgh there
are many great own entertainment programme be- places where people
get together cause there was nothing else to do in the evening
(after supper- cause around the area at night, so clan you will
need loads of energy) to chiefs would invite all the clan mem-
enjoy cheerful music, to meet out- bers to their houses, usually
the big- going people, to see Kilts which spin gest of them all,
where they gath- around dangerously high, and of ered to tell
stories, play music, and course- to do a lot of dancing! At a take
advantage of the good chance Ceilidh there is always a caller who
for young men to meet young girls of announces the upcoming dance
and their clan. While the Ceilidh originally explains the steps to
it. You then had nothing to do with dancing, over repeat the steps
and everything time dancing became an established comes together
for an energetic and part of the gatherings and is now the cheerful
dance, which pften involves central idea of Ceilidh nights. As one
changing partners, many twists, of Scotlands many cultural tradi-
jumping, and sometimes being spun tions, participants must do the
tradi- around in the air. While it might be tional dancing to the
tunes of a Scot- a bit daunting at the beginning see- tish band and
join in the drinking and ing some real Scots in their national the
socialising with all kinds of people dress jumping around as if
theres no to get the full hands-on experience. tomorrow to get
warmed, do not
13. old but not boring 15 Places to go to for aworry and dont
decide to just turn Ceilidh nightoff the brain, thinking you
dontknow how to do this. Rather, join The Lot, 4-6 Grassmarket
Edin-in, learn the steps and have a great burgh EH1 2JU;night out;
it will be an awesome ex- Tuesdays from 8pm-11pm; Tick-perience and
a blast you would not et: 6want to miss out on. After all,
theresalways a bar close by so you mightas well drink the worries
away beforegetting started on the dance floor! The Ghillie Dhu, 2
Rutland Place Edinburgh EH1 2AD;Text by Gabriella Friesen Friday
nights 7.30pm; 25 (din-Photos by Gabriella Friesen, Magda-
Gabrielle ner incl.)lena Hinterhlzl & Andrea Micheal