Contents
Welcome to San Francisco ................... 4
San Francisco’s Top 10 ................................ 6
What’s NewWhat’s New ......................1313
Need to Know ..................14
Top Itineraries .................16
If You Like… ......................18
Month by Month ............. 22
With Kids ......................... 25
Eating ............................. 27Drinking & Nightlife......31
Entertainment ..............34GLBT ............................... 37Shopping ........................39Sports & Activities ...... 41Cable Cars .....................45
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand San Francisco 251
Survival Guide 287
San Francisco Maps 313
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore San Francisco 48
Transportation .............288 Directory A–Z ...............294 Index ..............................303
San Francisco Today ............................. 252
History ...........................254
Local Cuisine & Drinks ..267
Literary San Francisco ................271
Visual Arts ..................... 273
San Francisco Music .... 276
San FranciscoArchitecture ..................280
Hills & Fog .....................284
The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & the Piers ........... 52
Downtown & Civic Center ..74
North Beach & Chinatown ....................... 98
The Hills & Japantown .. 115
The Mission, SoMa & Potrero Hill .................... 130
The Castro & Noe Valley ..................... 164
The Haight & Hayes Valley ...................174
Golden Gate Park & the Avenues .................. 190
Day Trips from San Francisco .....................206
Sleeping ......................238
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ExploreSan FranciscoNeighborhoods at a Glance . . . . . . . . . . . . .50
The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & the Piers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .70Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .70Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71Sports & Activities . . . . . . . . 72
Downtown & Civic Center . . . . . . . . . 74Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .84Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . .89Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . .92Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95
North Beach & Chinatown . . . . . . . . . . 98Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .108Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 110Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 112Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
The Hills & Japantown . . . . . . . . . 115Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 124Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 125Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 129
The Mission, SoMa & Potrero Hill . . . . . . 130Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 148Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 154Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 161
The Castro & Noe Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 170Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 172Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172
The Haight & Hayes Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 174Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . . 183Entertainment . . . . . . . . . . 185Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Sports & Activities . . . . . . . 189
Golden Gate Park & the Avenues . . . . . . . . 190Top Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Sights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195Eating . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198Drinking & Nightlife . . . . . .201Entertainment . . . . . . . . . 202Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203Sports & Activities . . . . . . 204
Day Trips from San Francisco . . . . . . . . . .206Berkeley . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .207Oakland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210Napa Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . 214Sonoma Valley . . . . . . . . . . 219Healdsburg & Dry Creek Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . .224Muir Woods & Muir Beach . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227Sausalito & Tiburon . . . . . .228Point Reyes National Seashore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232Hwy 1 to Santa Cruz . . . . .235
Sleeping . . . . . . . . . . .238
OR
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48
Alcatraz ..............................54
Fisherman’s Wharf ...........56
Golden Gate Bridge & the Marina ..........................59
Ferry Building & Justin Herman Plaza ....................76
Asian Art Museum ............77
Chinatown Alleyways .... 100
Coit Tower ........................ 101
Lombard St .......................117
San Francisco Museum of Modern Art ..................132
Mission Murals ................133
Haight St .......................... 176
Golden Gate Park ............192
TOP SIGHTSSAN FRANCISCO’S
49
313
CafeDrinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
CampingSleeping
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
BeachCanoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Sports &Activities
Diving/Snorkelling
Tourist InformationPost Office
Border Crossing
Bus
CyclingFerry
Muni Buses &Streetcars
Monorail
Parking
TaxiS-Bahn
BART
TramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport
Cable Car
Airport
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
Lane
Tertiary
Freeway
Primary
Steps
Plaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
Tollway
Disputed
Regional/Suburb
Marine Park
Cliff
Wall
State/Province
InternationalCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
Beach/Desert
Intermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
River/Creek
LighthouseLookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Hut/Shelter
Map Legend
AreasBoundaries
Hydrography
Geographic
Transport
Information
Drinking & Nightlife
Shopping
Entertainment
Eating
Sleeping
Sports & ActivitiesSights Routes
San Francisco Maps
314
MAP
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FISHERMAN
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9 Kokkari .......................................................B2 Recchiuti Chocolates.........................(see 7)10 La Mar Cebicheria .....................................D2 Sur la Table......................................... (see 7)
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ú Eating (p68)7 A16................................................................B48 Barney's Burgers.........................................C49 Betelnut........................................................D5
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22 Magic Theatre.............................................. E2
þ Shopping (p71)23 ATYS.............................................................D524 Chloe Rose................................................... E525 Marmalade SF..............................................D526 Mingle........................................................... E527 My Roommate's Closet...............................C528 Past Perfect .................................................C529 PlumpJack Wines ........................................C530 San Francisco Surf Company.....................C531 Uko................................................................D5
Ø Sports & Activities (p72)32 Oceanic Society Expeditions boat
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ÿ Sleeping (p241)33 Coventry Motor Inn .....................................D434 HI San Francisco Fisherman's Wharf ........ E235 Hotel del Sol.................................................D436 Marina Inn .................................................... E437 Marina Motel................................................A5
THE M
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SOUTH OFMARKET(SOMA)
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Ivy St
12th St
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Eddy St
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Civic Center BART& Muni Station
Asian ArtMuseum 6
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æ Top Sights (p76) 20 Edinburgh Castle.......................................B2Asian Art Museum.....................................C5 21 Ha-Ra .........................................................B2
22 Lush Lounge...............................................A1æ Sights (p82) 23 Rickshaw Stop...........................................A6
1 City Hall ......................................................B5 24 Rye .............................................................C22 Glide Memorial United Methodist 25 Whiskey Thieves .......................................B2
Church.....................................................D23 Luggage Store Gallery ............................. D4 ý Entertainment (p92)4 San Francisco Main Library......................C5 26 Café Royale................................................C25 SF Arts Commission Gallery ....................A5 27 City Arts & Lectures.................................. A56 United Nations Plaza.................................C4 28 Great American Music Hall ......................B3
29 Hemlock Tavern........................................ A2ú Eating (p88) 30 Mitchell Brothers O'Farrell Theater.........B3
7 Brenda's French Soul Food ......................B3 31 New Conservatory Theater......................B68 Dottie's True Blue Café.............................D2 San Francisco Ballet ........................(see 32)9 Farm:Table................................................. C1 32 San Francisco Opera ................................A5
10 Heart of the City Farmers Market............C5 33 San Francisco Symphony ........................A511 Millennium..................................................C212 Pagolac.......................................................B3 þ Shopping (p97)13 Sai Jai Thai .................................................B3 34 Kayo Books................................................C214 Saigon Sandwich Shop .............................B3 35 Magazine ...................................................B215 Shalimar.....................................................D216 Tommy's Joynt..........................................A2 ÿ Sleeping (p241)
36 HI San Francisco City Center...................B3û Drinking & Nightlife (p91) 37 Hotel Vertigo ..............................................C1
17 222 Hyde....................................................C3 38 Phoenix Hotel ............................................B318 Aunt Charlie's ............................................D3 39 Steinhart Hotel & Apartments..................C119 Deco Lounge..............................................B4
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Eæ Top Sights (p100) 37 Church Key .......................... C3
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æ Sights (p102) 39 Comstock Saloon ................D41 Beat Museum.......................D4 40 EZ5........................................ D52 Bob Kaufman Alley.............. C2 41 Li Po...................................... D53 Chinese Culture 42 Purple Onion ........................D4
Center................................D5 43 Rosewood ............................ C44 Chinese Historical 44 Specs' ................................... D4
Society of 45 Tosca Cafe ...........................D4America .............................C6 46 Vesuvio................................. D4
5 Chinese TelephoneExchange........................... D5 þ Shopping (p112)
6 Columbus Tower ................. D5 47 101 Music.............................. C37 Commercial Street..............D6 48 Al's Attire..............................D48 Dragon's Gate...................... D7 49 Aria ....................................... C39 Filbert St Steps.....................E2 50 Chinatown Kite
10 Good Luck Parking Shop .................................. D6Garage............................... C4 51 City Lights
11 Jack Kerouac Alley ..............D4 bookstore..........................D412 Old St Mary's 52 Clarion Music
Cathedral...........................D6 Center................................D613 Portsmouth Square............. D5 53 Double Punch ...................... B214 Ross Alley............................. C5 54 Far East Flea15 Saints Peter & Paul Market ...............................D6
Church............................... B2 55 Golden Gate16 Spofford Alley ...................... C5 Fortune17 Washington Square............. B3 Cookies18 Waverly Place ......................D6 Company........................... C5
56 Lola of North Beach ............ C3ú Eating (p108) 57 Red Blossom Tea
19 Brioche Bakery ....................D4 Company........................... D520 Café Jacqueline ................... C3 58 SF Rock Posters &21 Cinecittá............................... B3 Collectibles ....................... B222 City View .............................. E623 Coi..........................................E4 ÿ Sleeping (p246)24 Golden Star .......................... D5 59 Grant Plaza .......................... D725 House of Nanking ................ D5 60 Hotel Bohème...................... C326 Jai Yun .................................. D5 61 Pacific Tradewinds27 Liguria Bakery...................... C2 Hostel ................................ E628 Molinari................................. C4 62 San Remo Hotel....................A129 Naked Lunch........................D4 63 SWHotel .............................. C430 Ristorante Ideale ................. C4 64 Washington Square31 Tony's Coal-fired Inn ...................................... C2
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32 Yuet Lee ............................... C4
û Drinking & Nightlife (p110)33 15 Romolo ............................D434 Beach Blanket
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Washington St
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CHINATOWN
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Columbus Ave
Bush St
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Stockton
St
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Pow
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æ Top Sights (p117)Lombard St .................................................. C1
æ Sights (p119)1 Cable Car Museum...................................... E52 Diego Rivera Gallery.................................... C13 Grace Cathedral .......................................... E64 Ina Coolbrith Park........................................ E35 Jack Kerouac's Love
Shack.........................................................B36 Macondray Lane..........................................D37 Masonic Auditorium.................................... E68 Pacific-Union Club....................................... E69 Sterling Park ................................................B2
ú Eating (p123)10 Acquerello....................................................B611 Cheese Plus .................................................B412 Frascati.........................................................C313 Swan Oyster Depot .....................................B614 Swensen's ....................................................C315 Za..................................................................C3
û Drinking & Nightlife (p125)Amélie.................................................. (see 16)
16 Bigfoot Lodge ..............................................B517 Cinch ............................................................B518 Tonga Room ................................................ F619 Top of the Mark ........................................... F6
ý Entertainment (p125)20 Encore Karaoke
Lounge.......................................................B621 Lumiere Theater..........................................B622 Red Devil Lounge.........................................B6
þ Shopping (p128)23 City Discount ...............................................B624 Cris ...............................................................B525 Eco Citizen ...................................................B4
Hide & Seek Antiques ........................ (see 12)26 Picnic ............................................................B527 Studio ...........................................................B528 Velvet da Vinci .............................................B4
ÿ Sleeping (p247)29 Fairmont San
Francisco................................................... F630 Huntington Hotel ......................................... E631 Mark Hopkins
Intercontinental ........................................ F632 Nob Hill Hotel...............................................C733 Nob Hill Inn................................................... E6
RUSSIAN & N
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JAPANTOWN
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Pacific Ave
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Ellis StSteiner S
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æ Sights (p118) Butterfly Bar ........(see 35) Jonathan Adler ....(see 22)1 Audium..........................D2 13 Dosa...............................B3 26 Katsura Garden.............B32 Cottage Row ................. B3 14 Harry's Bar .................... B2 27 Kinokuniya Books3 Ikenobo Ikebana & Stationery ...............B3
Society........................C3 ý Entertainment (p125) 28 Kohshi............................C34 Japan Center ................ C3 15 Boom Boom Room....... B3 29 Marc by Marc5 Konko Temple............... C2 16 Clay Theater.................. B2 Jacobs ........................B2
Peace Pagoda........ (see 4) 17 Fillmore 30 Nest ................................B16 Ruth Asawa Auditorium .................B4 31 New People ...................C3
Fountains ................... C3 18 Queen of Sheba ............B4 32 Soko Hardware .............C319 Rasella's ........................B4 33 Zinc Details ...................B2
ú Eating (p122) 20 Sundance Kabuki7 Benkyodo ...................... C3 Cinema .......................B3 Ø Sports & Activities (p129)8 Bun Mee ........................ B2 Viz Cinema ........... (see 31) 34 Kabuki Springs &
Grove .................... (see 14) 21 Yoshi's ...........................B4 Spa..............................B39 Nijiya Supermarket ...... C3
10 Out the Door ................. B2 þ Shopping (p126) ÿ Sleeping (p247)11 Pizzeria Delfina............. B2 22 Benefit ...........................B2 35 Hotel Majestic ...............D2
Saporro-Ya...........(see 26) 23 Clary Sage 36 Hotel Tomo ...................C3Sophie's Crepes...(see 26) Organics ......................B1 37 Kabuki Hotel..................C3
Crossroads...........(see 33) 38 Queen Anne Hotel.........D2û Drinking & Nightlife (p124) 24 Her ................................. B2
12 1300 on Fillmore........... B4 25 Ichiban Kan ...................C3
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CIVICCENTER
HAYESVALLEY
LOWERHAIGHT
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McCoppin St
Ivy St
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Page St
OtisSt
12th St
Octavia
St
Gough St
Hickory St
Grove St
Linden St
Grove St
Linden St
Page St
Hayes St
Rose St
Hickory St
Lily St
Lily St
Haight St
Colton S
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MarketSt
Oak St
Mission
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Fell St
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æ Sights (p180) 12 Pisco Latin Lounge.......B4 21 Isotope...........................C21 Hayes Valley Farm........ B2 22 Lotus Bleu ......................C12 Zen Center .................... B3 ý Entertainment (p185) 23 MAC ................................C1
13 Rebel Bar.......................C4 24 Miette.............................B2ú Eating (p183) 14 SF Lesbian Gay 25 Nancy Boy......................C1
3 Bar Jules........................ A2 Bisexual 26 Peace Industry..............A24 Chantal Guillon Transgender 27 Polanco...........................C1
Macarons ................... B2 Community 28 Reliquary ........................B15 Jardiniére .......................C1 Center.........................B4 29 Residents Apparel6 Nojo ................................C1 Gallery..........................B17 Suppenküche................ A2 þ Shopping (p187)8 Zuni Cafe ....................... C3 15 Fiddlesticks ....................B1 ÿ Sleeping (p249)
16 Flax ................................C4 30 Sleep Over Sauce .........C3û Drinking & Nightlife (p184) 17 Flight 001 ...................... B2 31 Hayes Valley Inn ............C1
9 Hôtel Biron .................... C3 18 Gangs of San 32 Parsonnage...................B410 Martuni's .......................C4 Francisco....................C311 Momi Toby's 19 Gimme Shoes ................C1
Revolution Café ......... A2 20 Green Arcade................C3
‚
To Smuggler's Cove(450ft)
HAYES VALLEY
330
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UNIONSQUARE
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THEMISSION
NOBHILL
CivicCenter Plaza
UnitedNationsPlaza
UnionSquare
VictoriaManalo
Draves Park
MiniPark
HallidiePlaza
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Russ St
Langton St
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StClementina St
Dore Al
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Natoma S
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a St
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8th St
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9th St
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VanN
essAve
VanN
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Stockton
St
Pow
ell St
McCoppin St12th St
Stockton
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Leavenworth
St
Post St
11th St
LarkinSt
JonesSt
Grant A
ve
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Eddy StWillow St
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Grove St
Clay St
Otis
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14th St
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JacksonSt
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Washington St
Mason
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Page St
Sacramento St
Grove St7th St
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O'FarrellSt
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Central Fwy
Central Fwy
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MISSIONBAY
SOUTH OFMARKET(SOMA)
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San FranciscoBay
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Gallagher La
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Clementina St
Harriet St
Ritch St
Holland Ct
Stevenson St
Lusk St
Tehama S
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Oak Grove St
Lansing St
Rizal St
Welsh St
Perry
St
VarneyPl
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Taber Pl
Freelon
St
G
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Pl
Minna St
S ParkSt
Merlin St
Stanford St
Yerba Buena La
JessieSt
Bluxom
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Stevenson S
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Tehama S
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Clara S
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5th St
New
Montgom
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KingSt
King
St
California St
Mission
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KingSt
3rd St
FolsomSt
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MarketSt
4th St
2nd St
MarketSt
Fremont St
5th St
Beale St
Harrison S
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rcad
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Main St
6th St
Montgom
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Steuart StSpear St
1st St
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Berry
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anSt
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Channel St
Sacramento St
Alameda St
BryantSt
Bay B
ridge
Brannan StMuni
Station
Folsom StMuniStation
Montgomery StBART & Muni Station
EmbarcaderoBART & MuniStation
4th & King StMuni Station
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SOMA Map on p330
æ Top Sights (p132) 38 Harlot ......................................................... F2San Francisco Museum of Modern Art.... F3 39 Hole in the Wall..........................................C6
40 House of Shields ....................................... E2æ Sights (p139) 41 Kok Bar ......................................................C6
1 AT&T Park................................................. H5 42 Lone Star Saloon.......................................C6Baer Ridgway..................................... (see 3) 43 Powerhouse...............................................C6
2 California Historical Society Museum.....E3 44 RN74 ...........................................................F13 Cartoon Art Museum ................................E3 45 Shine ..........................................................C64 Catharine Clark Gallery.............................F3 46 Sightglass Coffee......................................D55 Children's Creativity Museum..................E3 47 Stud............................................................D66 Contemporary Jewish Museum...............E3 48 Temple ....................................................... F27 Crown Point Press..................................... F3 49 Terroir Natural Wine Merchant................D58 Electric Works............................................C5 50 Waterbar....................................................H29 Federal Building.........................................C5 51 Zeitgeist ..................................................... A7
10 Jack London's Birthplace ........................ G411 Museum of Craft & Folk Art......................E3 ý Entertainment (p156)12 Museum of the African Diaspora .............E3 52 AMC Loews Metreon 16............................ E313 South Park ................................................ G4 53 AsiaSF ........................................................C614 WPAMurals at Rincon Annex Post 54 Blow Buddies............................................. E5
Office .......................................................G1 55 Brainwash..................................................D5Yerba Buena Centre for the Arts.....(see 15) 56 Hotel Utah Saloon..................................... F4
15 Yerba Buena Gardens...............................E3 57 Mezzanine..................................................D458 Slim's..........................................................C7
ú Eating (p146)16 Benu ...........................................................F3 þ Shopping (p160)17 Boulevard...................................................G1 59 Branch........................................................D618 Butler & the Chef...................................... G4 60 Gama-Go....................................................D6
Citizen's Band.................................. (see 32) 61 General Bead.............................................C519 Heaven's Dog.............................................C5 62 Goodwill 'As Is' Shop.................................B620 Juhu Beach Club........................................C6 63 Isda & Co Outlet ........................................G421 Rainbow Grocery.......................................C7 64 Jeremy's ....................................................G422 Sentinel ......................................................E2 65 Madame S &Mr S Leather .......................D623 Split Pea Seduction.................................. D4 66 San Francisco Flower Mart ...................... E624 Tropisueño.................................................E3 67 SFMOMAMuseum Store.......................... E325 Tu Lan........................................................ D426 Zero Zero ...................................................E4 Ø Sports & Activities (p161)
68 City Kayak..................................................H4û Drinking & Nightlife (p150) 69 Embarcadero YMCA................................. G1
27 1015 Folsom...............................................D5 Spinnaker Sailing ............................ (see 68)28 111 Minna .................................................... F2 70 Yerba Buena Ice Skating & Bowling ........ F329 83 Proof...................................................... F2
Bar Agricole ..................................... (see 36) ÿ Sleeping (p248)30 Bloodhound .............................................. D6 71 Americania Hotel ......................................D531 Butter .........................................................C7 72 Best Western Carriage Inn.......................D532 Cat Club..................................................... D6 73 Good Hotel.................................................C533 City Beer Store & Tasting Room..............D5 74 Harbor Court Hotel ................................... G134 Club Six ..................................................... D4 75 Hotel Vitale ................................................ G135 Dada ........................................................... F2 76 Mosser Hotel ............................................. E336 DNA Lounge...............................................C7 77 St Regis Hotel............................................ E337 EndUp.........................................................E5 78 WHotel ...................................................... F3
SOM
A
333
THE MISSION & POTRERO HILL Map on p334
æ Top Sights (p132) 35 Old Jerusalem...............B6 þ Shopping (p158)24th St...........................D5 36 Pancho Villa .................. B2 73 Accident & Artifact ........B1Valencia St .................... B3 Range....................(see 87) 74 Adobe Books &
37 Tartine ...........................A3 Backroomæ Sights (p134) 38 Udupi Palace.................B4 Gallery.........................A2
1 826 Valencia ................. B3 75 Aquarius Records.........B42 Ampersand û Drinking & Nightlife (p148) 76 Black & Blue
International 39 Atlas Cafe......................D3 Tattoo .........................A2Arts .............................H3 40 Beretta ..........................B4 77 Candystore
3 Balmy Alley ................... C5 41 Borderlands ..................B3 Collective....................A24 California College 42 Doc's Clock ...................B4 78 Community Thrift .........B2
of the Arts ................... F1 43 El Rio..............................B6 79 Dema .............................B45 Clarion Alley.................. B2 44 Elixir ...............................B2 80 Fabric8 ..........................B46 Creativity Explored....... A2 45 Heart..............................B5 81 Good Vibrations............B27 Eleanor Harwood 46 Homestead ...................C3 82 Gravel & Gold ................B4
Gallery ........................D5 47 Latin American 83 Mission8 Galería de la Raza......... D5 Club.............................B4 Skateboards...............C59 Guerrero Gallery...........D3 48 Lexington Club.............. B3 84 Mission Statement .......B3
10 Incline Gallery ............... B3 49 Medjool Sky 85 Needles & Pens.............A211 Mission Dolores ............ A2 Terrace .......................B4 86 NooWorks ......................B112 Mission Dolores 50 Mighty.............................E1 87 Paxton Gate ..................B3
Park ............................ A3 51 Phone Booth .................C4 88 Room 4 ..........................B313 Ratio 3 ............................B1 52 Ritual Coffee 89 SCRAP............................F714 Root Division................. C2 Roasters .....................B4 90 SunheeMoon................A215 Southern Exposure ......D3 53 Thee Parkside ................F2 91 Voyager ..........................B116 Women's Building......... B3 54 Truck ..............................C1
Ø Sports & Activities (p161)ú Eating (p142) ý Entertainment (p154) 92 18 Reasons ....................A3
17 Bi-Rite............................ A3 55 Amnesia ........................B3 93 Bakar Fitness &18 Bi-Rite Creamery.......... A3 56 Bottom of the Hill ..........F2 Recreation19 Commonwealth ............ B3 57 Brava Theater ...............D5 Center......................... G120 Corner ........................... B2 58 Cafe Cocomo ................G2 94 Metronome Dance21 Delfina ........................... A3 59 Dance Mission .............. B5 Collective.................... E222 Duc Loi........................... B3 60 Elbo Room.....................B3 95 Mission Cultural23 Foreign Cinema ............ B4 61 Intersection for Center for24 Humphry the Arts....................... B2 Latino Arts..................B5
Slocombe ...................D5 62 Jewish Theater .............D2 96 Potrero del Sol/La25 Ichi Sushi....................... B7 63 Little Baobab.................B3 Raza26 La Taqueria ................... B5 64 Make-Out Room ...........B4 Skatepark ................... E527 Locanda......................... B2 65 Marsh.............................B4 97 San Francisco28 Maverick........................ B2 66 Oberlin Dance Center for the29 Mission Beach Collective....................C2 Book............................ E2
Cafe .............................A1 67 Red Poppy Art 98 Yoga Tree ......................B530 Mission Chinese ........... B3 House .........................C431 Mission Pie .................... B5 68 Roccapulco ÿ Sleeping (p249)32 Mitchell's Ice Supper Club ...............B6 99 Inn San Francisco .........C3
Cream......................... B7 69 Roxie Cinema................ B233 Mr & Mrs 70 Savanna Jazz ................ B5
Miscellaneous ............H4 71 SUB-Mission ................. B234 Mr Pollo ......................... B5 72 Verdi Club......................D2
THE MISSIO
N & POTRERO
HILL
334
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THECASTRO
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GarfieldSquare
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Fair Oaks
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Treat Ave
Harrison
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YorkSt
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Bryant S
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Shotw
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15th St
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Clipper St
Duncan St
Day St
27th St
Hill St
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28th St
Liberty St
Duboce Ave
FairAv
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Ave
Dorland St
Division St
Bryant S
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Montezuma St
25th St
ElsieSt
WinfieldSt
23rd St
19th St
17th St
LindaSt
FloridaSt
Treat Ave
Ripley St
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aSt
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SVan
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MISSIONBAY
POTREROHILL
Potrero delSol Park
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JacksonPlayground
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æ Sights (p166) û Drinking & Nightlife (p170) 37 Castro Theatre..............B3Castro Theatre .... (see 37) 19 440 Castro ....................B3
1 Corona Heights Park.... A2 20 Badlands .......................B4 þ Shopping (p172)2 GLBT History Museum.B4 21 Blackbird ........................D1 38 Books Inc.......................C23 Harvey Milk Plaza ......... B3 22 Cafe ...............................B3 39 Cliff's Variety.................B34 Jane Warner Plaza........ B3 23 Cafe Flore......................C2 40 De La Sole .....................B45 Nobby Clarke Mansion. A4 24 Churchill .........................D1 41 Human Rights
25 Jumpin' Java ..................C1 Campaign Actionú Eating (p166) 26 Lookout ......................... B2 Center & Store...........B4
6 Anchor Oyster Bar........ B4 27 Midnight Sun.................B4 42 Kenneth Wingard..........B37 Burgermeister ...............D1 28 Mix ................................. B4 43 Photoworks................... D18 Casa Mexicana...............D1 29 Moby Dick .....................B4 44 Sui Generis ....................B39 Catch ............................. B3 30 Pilsner Inn ......................D1 45 Under One Roof ............B4
10 Chilango .........................D1 31 QBar...............................B3 46 Unionmade....................C311 Chow...............................D1 32 Samovar Tea Lounge...C3 47 Worn Out West .............B412 Frances..........................C3 33 Toad Hall .......................B413 L'Ardoise ........................C1 34 Trigger ...........................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p249)14 La Méditerranée ........... B2 35 Twin Peaks Tavern ....... B3 48 24 Henry.........................C115 Mollie Stone's 49 Beck's Motor Lodge .....C2
Markets ...................... B4 ý Entertainment (p172) 50 Inn on Castro.................B316 Starbelly ........................ C2 36 Café du 51 Parker Guest House .....D317 Sushi Time .................... C2 Nord/Swedish 52 Willows Inn .................... D118 Taqueria Zapata ........... B4 American Hall..............C1
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æ Sights (p166) þ Shopping (p173)1 22nd St Hill................................................. C1 5 Ambiance...................................................B2
6 Global Exchange Fair Trade Craftú Eating (p166) Center .....................................................B2
2 Barney's Burgers.......................................A2 7 Isso.............................................................C23 Lovejoy's Tea Room..................................C3 8 Neon Monster.............................................A14 Noe Valley Bakery .....................................A2 9 Omnivore ...................................................C3
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WESTERNADDITION
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æ Top Sights (p177) 22 Independent .............................................. F3Alamo Square ........................................... G3
þ Shopping (p186)æ Sights (p177) 23 Amoeba Music...........................................A6
1 Buena Vista Park .......................................E6 24 Bound Together Anarchist Book2 Grateful Dead House.................................C6 Collective ................................................D5
25 Braindrops.................................................D5ú Eating (p180) 26 Goorin Brothers Hats................................C5
3 Axum Cafe..................................................G5 27 Loved to Death ..........................................B64 Bar Crudo...................................................E3 28 Loyal Army Clothing .................................B55 Cole Valley Cafe.........................................B6 29 Piedmont Boutique...................................C56 Escape from New York Pizza....................A6 30 Prairie Collective ....................................... F57 Little Chihuahua ........................................ F4 31 Revolver .....................................................H58 Magnolia Brewpub ....................................C5 32 SFO Snowboarding & FTC9 Ragazza......................................................F4 Skateboarding........................................B5
10 Rosamunde Sausage Grill ........................G5 33 Upper Playground.....................................H511 Three Twins Ice Cream............................ H5 34 Wasteland..................................................B512 Ziryab .........................................................F3 35 Xapno.........................................................G5
û Drinking & Nightlife (p183) Ø Sports & Activities (p189)13 Alembic ......................................................B5 36 Aqua Surf Shop.........................................B514 Aub Zam Zam ............................................B6 37 Avenue Cyclery .........................................A615 Coffee to the People..................................C5 38 Koret Pool ..................................................A316 Madrone.....................................................F417 Noc Noc..................................................... H5 ÿ Sleeping (p249)18 Toronado................................................... H5 39 Chateau Tivoli............................................G219 Uva Enoteca.............................................. G4 40 Grove Inn ...................................................H320 Vinyl Wine Bar............................................ F4 41 Metro Hotel................................................ F4
42 Red Victorian Bed, Breakfast & Art.........B6ý Entertainment (p185) 43 Stanyan Park Hotel...................................A6
21 Booksmith..................................................B5
THE
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æ Top Sights (p192) 28 Thanh Long................................................B6California Academy of Sciences ............. G4 29 Ton Kiang Restaurant............................... E2Conservatory of Flowers.......................... H4 30 Underdog................................................... F5Golden Gate Park ......................................E4 31 Wing Lee ....................................................G2Japanese Tea Garden ...............................F4 32 Yum Yum Fish ........................................... E5MH de Young Museum............................. G4San Francisco Botanical Garden.............. F5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p201)Stow Lake...................................................F4 540 Club ........................................... (see 31)
33 Beach Chalet .............................................A4æ Sights (p195) 34 Bitter End...................................................G2
1 AIDS Memorial Grove............................... H4 35 Hollow ........................................................ F52 Bison Paddock...........................................C4 36 Social..........................................................G53 Camera Obscura .......................................A3 37 Trad'r Sam's ..............................................D24 Children's Playground.............................. H4 38 Trouble Coffee...........................................B6
Cliff House.......................................... (see 3)5 Columbarium............................................ H3 ý Entertainment (p202)6 Dahlia Garden ........................................... H4 39 Balboa Theater..........................................C37 Legion of Honor .........................................B2 40 Plough & the Stars ....................................H28 Lincoln Park ............................................... B19 McLaren Lodge......................................... H4 þ Shopping (p203)
10 Ocean Beach..............................................A5 General Store ...................................(see 38)11 Shakespeare Garden ............................... G4 41 Green Apple Books ...................................G212 Sutro Baths................................................A2 42 Mollusk.......................................................B513 Windmills....................................................A4 Park Life........................................... (see 40)
Seedstore ......................................... (see 18)ú Eating (p198) 43 Wishbone...................................................G5
14 Aziza ...........................................................E215 B Star Bar.................................................. H2 Ø Sports & Activities (p204)16 Burma Superstar.......................................G2 44 Circus Center Trapeze..............................H517 First Korean Market ..................................G2 45 Flycasting Club..........................................C418 Genki...........................................................G2 46 Golden Gate Municipal Golf Course ........B419 Halu ............................................................G2 47 Golden Gate Park Bike & Skate ...............G320 House of Bagels......................................... F2 48 Lawn Bowling Club....................................H421 Kabuto........................................................ F2 49 Lincoln Park Golf Course..........................C222 Namu......................................................... G3 50 Lindy in the Park .......................................G423 Nanking Road Bistro .................................G5 51 San Francisco Disc Golf............................D4
Outerlands ....................................... (see 38) 52 San Francisco Model Yacht Club.............C424 PPQ Dungeness Island..............................E2 53 Wheel Fun Rentals .................................... F425 San Tung ....................................................G526 Spices.........................................................G2 ÿ Sleeping (p250)27 Sunrise Deli ................................................E5 54 Seal Rock Inn.............................................A3
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PACIFICOCEAN
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THERICHMOND
RossiPlayground
Midtown TerraceRecreation Center
MountainLake Park
InteriorPark Belt
GrandViewPark
PresidioNational Park
StrawberryHill Island
LagunaHonda
LloydLake
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GOLDEN
GATE PARK & THE AVENUES
Alison Bing Coordinating Author: North Beach & Chinatown, The Mission, SoMa & Potrero Hill, The Haight & Hayes Valley, and Golden Gate Park & the Avenues Over 15 years in San Francisco, Alison has done everything you’re supposed to do in the city and many things you’re not, including falling in love on the 7 Haight bus and gorging on Mission burritos before Berlioz symphonies. Alison holds degrees in art history and international diplomacy – respectable
diplomatic credentials she regularly undermines with opinionated culture commentary for radio, newspapers, foodie magazines and books, including Lonely Planet’s California, USA, Coastal California, California Trips, San Francisco and San Francisco Encounter guides. Alison also wrote the Planning, Understand and Survival Guide chapters.
John A Vlahides The Marina, Fisherman’s Wharf & the Piers, Downtown & Civic Center, The Hills & Japantown, and The Castro & Noe Valley John A Vlahides co-hosts the TV series Lonely Planet: Roads Less Travelled, screening on National Geo-graphic Channels International. John studied cooking in Paris, with the same chefs who trained Julia Child, and he’s a former luxury-hotel concierge and member of Les Clefs d’Or, the international union of the world’s elite concierges.
He lives in San Francisco, where he sings tenor with the San Francisco Symphony, and spends free time skiing the Sierra Nevada. For more, see www.johnvlahides.com and twitter.com/johnvlahides. John also wrote the Sleeping and Day Trips chapters.
Read more about John at:lonelyplanet.com/members/johnvlahides
Our Writers
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9838th edition – Feb 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 923 1© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Day One North Beach (p 98 )
M�Parrots squawk encouragement as you climb Greenwich Street stairs
to Coit Tower for WPA murals and 360-degree panoramas. Amble downhill through Washington Square and down Columbus past Columbus Tower, and take a breather in the redwood grove beneath the Trans-america Pyramid.
Chinatown (p 98 )
R Compare traditional and contempo-rary, Chinese and Chinese American
artists at Chinese Culture Center, and cross the pedestrian bridge to watch fi erce chess matches in progress at Portsmouth Square. Wander through temple-lined Wa-verly Place and notorious Ross Alley to fi nd your fortune at Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Company. Past the pagoda-topped tea and trinket shops of Grant Ave and down poetry-paved Jack Kerouac Alley is City Lights bookstore, the home of Beat poetry. Celebrate free spirits and free speech here and at the Beat Museum across the street.
North Beach (p 98 )
N Prepare yourself for insane hats and razor-sharp wit at Beach Blanket
Babylon, SF’s most over-the-top drag satire (and that’s saying something). Recap over nightcaps fi t for Victorian swells and mad-ams at Comstock Saloon.
Lunch Hail dim sum carts for dump-lings at City View (p 109 ).
Dinner Reserve ahead for North Beach’s best pasta at Cotogna (p 84 ).
Day Two Golden Gate Park (p 190 )
M Hop the Judah to Stanyan, then walk into the park to see carnivorous
plants enjoying their insect breakfasts at Conservatory of Flowers and dahlias wet with dew in the Dahlia Garden. Fol-low Andy Goldworthy’s artful sidewalk fault lines to fi nd faultless Oceanic masks and tower-top views at the MH de Young Museum, then take a walk on the wild side in the rainforest dome of the California Academy of Sciences. Enjoy a moment of Zen with green tea at the Japanese Tea Garden, and bliss out in the secret redwood grove at the San Francisco Botanical Garden.
The Sunset (p 190 )
R Find driftwood jewelry and DIY ar-chitecture books at General Store,
and artist-designed hoodies and custom surfboards at Mollusk. Beachcomb Ocean Beach up to the Beach Chalet to glimpse 1930s WPA murals celebrating Golden Gate Park, and amber sunsets glimpsed through a pint of the house-brewed ale.
Japantown (p 115 )
N Psychedelic posters and top acts make for rock-legendary nights at the Fill-
more, or you could get in the swing with the jazz greats performing nightly at Yoshi’s.
Lunch Surfers hit Outerlands (p 201 ) for grilled cheese and organic soup.
Dinner Inspired organic Cal-Moroccan feasts satisfy cravings at Aziza (p 198 ).
Top Itineraries
16
Day Three SoMa (p 130 )
M Fuel up with an artful latte at the cafe at the rooftop sculpture garden
of SFMOMA, then plot your descent through three fl oors of boundary-pushing, horizon-expanding art. Explore SF’s multi-culti roots at the Museum of the African Diaspora and Contemporary Jewish Museum, then fi nd crafty new ideas at the Museum of Craft & Folk Art.
The Mission (p 130 )
R Walk 24th St past mural-covered bodegas to Balmy Alley, where
the Mission muralist movement began in the 1970s. Stop for a ‘secret breakfast’ (bourbon and cornfl ake) ice cream sundae at Humphry Slocombe, then head up Valencia to another foodie favorite, Ritual Coff ee Roasters. Pause for pirate supplies and Fish Theater at 826 Valencia, and duck into Clarion Alley to see the Mis-sion’s ongoing outdoor art show. See San Francisco’s fi rst building, Spanish adobe Mission Dolores, and visit the memorial to native Ohlone who built it.
The Castro (p 164 )
N Sing along to show tunes pounded out on the Mighty Wurlitzer organ
before shows at deco-fabulous Castro Theatre. Party boys cruise over to 440 Castro afterwards, while mixed straight/gay/male/female crowds clink glasses at Blackbird.
Lunch La Taqueria makes the defi ni-tive Mission burrito (p 142 ).
Dinner Early walk-ins may score sensa-tional small plates at Frances (p 166 ).
Day Four Russian Hill (p 115 )
M Grab a leather strap on the Powell-Hyde cable car and hold on: you’re
in for hills and thrills. Hop off at Vallejo to follow stairway walks and side streets to four literary locations: hilltop Ina Cool-brith Park, named after San Francisco’s over-the-top romantic poet; shady Macon-dray Lane, the backdrop for Armistead Maupin’s Tales of the City; Russell St, where Jack Kerouac wrote On the Road in an attic; and Sterling Park, where sweep-ing bay views inspired SF’s original ‘King of Bohemia.’
The Piers (p 52 )
R Cover the waterfront, beginning with newly restored underwater
murals and mosaics at Aquatic Park Bathhouse. You can save the world from Space Invaders at Musée Mécanique, or enter underwater stealth mode inside a real WWII submarine: USS Pampanito. Watch sea lions cavort at Pier 39, then fol-low your rumbling stomach to the Ferry Building.
Alcatraz (p 52 )
N To end the evening with shivers, don’t miss the boat for the night tour
of Alcatraz. Once you return to freedom, hop on the vintage F-Market line street-car to celebrate your great San Francisco escape with bubbly at Waterbar.
Lunch Za (p 124 ) features cornmeal-crusted pizza and Anchor Steam beer.
Dinner Try the local oysters and Dunge-ness crab at the Ferry Building (p 86 ).
PLAN YO
UR TRIP TOP
ITIN
ERA
RIES
17
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