Sandwich Smash e-Book

e-book

philadelphia PA

table of contentspage 4 hello

page 6 contributors

page 8 sandwiches fight hunger

page 10 meet the chefs photos by Gabreil Fredericks

page 32 the united states of sandwiches

page 56 eating a regional sandwich how to behave

page 62 interview with a brewmaster sandwiches & beer with michelob

page 66 capogiro gelato the only way to follow a great sandwich

page 68 potato chip pairings we layer our chips into our sandwiches

page 72 recipes

page 76 sponsors & credits

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hello

A city’s stories are told through its food.

And sandwiches are great conversation starters.

When we started writing about sandwiches around our

hometown of Philadelphia, we quickly learned we had

tapped into something much bigger than ingredients and

bread. We found a city’s history; we found cultures with

deep culinary roots; and we wanted to find the people and

the stories behind the bread.

Sandwiches have a long history as blue collar food: they

basically served as a workingman’s complete meal—meat,

cheese, some sort of vegetable on bread. That’s why we

believe that Philadelphia is the sandwich capital of the

country. Once called the “workshop of the world,” it

was this country’s biggest factory town. At the turn of the

century, boatloads of skilled workers from Eastern and

Western Europe arrived, creating a patchwork of ethnic

neighborhoods, each dotted with its own bakeries,

butchers, and mom-and-pop corner grocers—and each

with their own distinctive cured meat sandwiches, from

Old World German-style bologna to Italian capicolla.

Although most of the factories are now closed, the

neighborhoods remain, and many of the city’s great

sandwiches are still served from small luncheonettes,

corner storefronts, food trucks, and trailers near the

waterfront docks.

We believe it doesn’t matter if you get a cheesesteak or

an Italian hoagie, a chicken cutlet with broccoli rabe or a

banh mi. We just want to you to think about that sandwich

you’re eating; to appreciate where it came from; and to

be a part of a broader conversation.

Jeff Vogel Ben Kessler

[email protected] [email protected]

Sandwich Smash 2009 Hello

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mailto:[email protected]


contributors

Jeff Vogel is the co-creator and Managing Director of

Unbreaded and Sandwich Smash, both born out of a desire

to take a deeper look at what goes into the great sand-

wiches of a sandwich-rich city like Philadelphia. Prior to his

work on Unbreaded, he served as Marketing Director for

Philadelphia-based technology firm NeatReceipts, recog-

nized as the city’s fastest growing company in 2007 and

2008. A lifelong Philadelphian, Vogel speaks kosher deli

fluently and thinks everything tastes better when it’s been

braised: “There’s something primal about holding onto your

food and taking a bite that is far superior to eating with

utensils.”

Ben Kessler found a way to combine his lifelong interests in

technology and the culinary arts as co-creator and Director

of Communications for Unbreaded and Sandwich Smash.

A fan of fine cured meats and crusty breads, Kessler finds

Philadelphia to be the perfect home, and Italian hoagies,

the perfect sandwiches. It is the history behind sandwiches

and the stories they tell that captures Ben’s interest in

all things between bread: “Sandwiches are not only an

efficient, easy-to-manage meal, they encapsulate who

we are, our personality defined through meat, cheese

and condiments.”

Sandwich Smash 2009 Contributors

Esquire Food Editor Ryan D’Agostino is a passionate home

cook and believer in the culinary wisdom that “less is more

unless more has a point.” He is the editor of Esquire maga-

zine’s food pages, including special feature packages like

“Encyclopedia of Sandwiches and “The Almanac of Steak,”

winner of the 2009 ASME National Magazine Award: “For

me, one of the best parts about cooking at home is having

some leftovers to jam between slices of bread the next day

— usually with the addition of a fried egg.”

Journalist partner Francine Maroukian, who specializes in

recipe-driven kitchen/chef-culture stories, American city/

signature food packages, and culinary history of the coun-

try’s site specific foods, is a contributor to Travel + Leisure,

Garden & Gun, and Esquire, where her work includes

“Encyclopedia of Sandwiches,” and “The Steak Almanac,”

winner of the 2009 ASME National Magazine Award:

“Sandwiches are democracy in action.”

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sandwiches

fighthunger.

sandwichesfighthunger

Sandwich Smash has partnered with Philabundance, the region’s largest community food bank, to organize

a peanut butter and jelly food drive in the Philadelphia

community.

Thanks to generous donations from our corporate partners, Stroehmann Baking Company and ShopRite

Partners In Caring, we have received significant

quantities of bread, peanut butter and jelly for low-

income families in the region.

But there’s more that can be done. People

and businesses throughout the Delaware Valley are

encouraged to send unopened jars of

peanut butter and jelly to Philabundance

to help fight hunger and malnutrition.

*****************************************************************************

partners

how you can give

make a donation to Philabundance

- -

request free shipping supplies

from the USPS

- -

drop off food directly to

Philabundance’s warehouse

- -

hold a peanut butter food drive

in your office

- -

buy the Sandwiches Fight Hunger t-shirt

sandwichesfighthunger.com

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Sandwich Smash 2009 Sandwiches Fight Hunger

https://www.prioritymail.com/home.asp?purl=uspsbannerhome

http://www.philabundance.org/charitybadges/donate.asp?id=72

https://www.philabundance.org/takeactionnow/tan_food.asp

https://www.philabundance.org/takeactionnow/tan_fooddrive.asp

http://www.sandwichesfighthunger.com

http://www.sandwichesfighthunger.com

Sandwich Smash 2009 Meet The Chefs

Page 10 Page 11

meetthe chefs

photos by

Gabriel Fredericks

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Chef Peter McAndrewsPaesano’s

Philadelphia native son Peter Mc Andrews is the chef /

owner of Modo Mio, a BYOB serving personal interpretations

of classic regional dishes, and Paesano’s: Philly Style, which

quickly became a citywide sandwich institution. Although

McAndrews is French-trained, he says he first connected with

his true culinary calling on his honeymoon to Italy: “At its roots,

Italian cuisine is like unpretentious French food.”

the

Best Italian Hoagie WIP Sports Radio- -Best New BYOB, Best Prix Fixe, & Best Sandwich Shop Philadelphia Magazine

Page 12


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tattoo worthy ingredient

A whole pig being suckled by human beings.

sandwich wisdom

It’s all about balance. Don’t be cautious, but don’t over-do

it either. More isn’t always better.

most memorable sandwich and where

The first time I had a great sub was in Hoboken. It had

complete balance, with arugula rather than iceberg

and a touch of vinegar.

guilty pleasure sandwich

Easy. Lasagna Bolognese and a fried egg

on a sesame roll.

Chef Peter McAndrewsPaesano’s

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Michael Solomonov showcases his Mediterranean and

Middle Eastern roots at the nationally acclaimed Zahav,

his award-winning restaurant dedicated to modern Israeli

cuisine. A graduate of the Florida Culinary Institute in West

Palm Beach, Solomonov was formerly Executive Chef at

Marigold Kitchen in West Philadelphia, a co-venture with

restaurateur/chef Steven Cook. Their other culinary projects

include Xochitl, serving authentic Mexican cuisine, and

Percy Street, dedicated to hard-wood smoked barbecue:

“I am trying to modernize Israeli gastronomy while still

remaining pure to the flavors and techniques of each

comprising culture.”

the

2009 Rising Star Chef nomineeJames Beard Foundation- -Best RestaurantPhiladelphia Magazine--50 Best New U.S. RestaurantsTravel + Leisure-- Listed in Best New RestaurantsEsquire

Chef Michael SolomonovZahav

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Chef Michael SolomonovZahav


Olives with olive branches. I’m probably going to get this inked

in the next year or so.

sandwich wisdom

Minimalism is key; the right proportion of bread to meat and

veg. has to be considered, otherwise it won’t eat well.


The tuna with artichoke at Capogiro on 13th street. It is so

balanced with the use of classic ingredients: olive oil poached

tuna + olive paste + artichokes + ciabatta = $ in the bank.


Junior bacon cheeseburger from Wendy’s. I usually order

two, stack them, and consume them together. I don’t

usually feel good about myself afterward though.

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Mark Coates grew up in Forrest, Mississippi, once

deemed the “Chicken Capital of the World.” Although

he can remember barbecuing 10,000 birds for the annual

“Broiler Festival,” he soon took to pig, drawing upon his

family’s North Carolina roots. Inspired by an article about

the need to reinvigorate Philadelphia’s Italian Market,

Coates opened Bebe’s Barbecue, named after his grand-

mother whose own mother ran a Depression-era boarding

house in Greenville, Mississippi and left a legacy of recipes:

“Bebe’s Mamma Chad had a kitchen full of women

cooking round-the-clock.”

the

Best Barbecue Philadelphia Magazine

Mark CoatesBebe’s Barbecue

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Page 21


Wood-smoked meat, for its mythical quality.

sandwich wisdom

For me, it’s all about the meat; the bread should melt away.


A Cubano at Havana, located on the corner of Forrest Hill

Boulevard and Wet Dixie Highway in West Palm Beach.


My grandmother’s big fat tomato sandwich with about a

half pound of bacon and lots of mayonnaise (that’s turned

pink from the tomatoes) oozing out the sides of the soft

white bread.

Mark CoatesBebe’s Barbecue

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Rick OlivieriRick’s Steaks

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Rick Olivieri is the grandson of Pat Olivieri, known as the

creator and originator of the World Famous Philadelphia

Steak Sandwich. In 1982, Olivieri and his father opened their

first store together: Olivieri Prince of Steaks, located within

the historic Reading Terminal Market. The family crown was

officially passed on when he reopened that store as “Rick’s

Original Philly Steaks,” now located Downstairs at The

Bellevue: “Food is an international language, and everyday

we serve customers from all over the world.”

the

Best Ballpark Eats Food Network Awards

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A slab of steak with a crown on top as a tribute to my

grandfather, the “Steak King.”

sandwich wisdom

Always use top quality ingredients, even though

they cost a little more.


Prosciutto and provolone from a great little deli called “The

Cheese Shop” on the Duke of Gloucester St in Williamsburg VA.

Incredibly good!!


Nick’s Roast Beef with Provolone “Extra Wet”. A classic.

Rick OlivieriRick’s Steaks

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Arthur Cavaliere, a graduate of Pennsylvania State

University who holds a Bachelor’s Degree in English, worked

his way from bus boy at a local diner to lead the kitchen at

STARR Restaurant’s modern brasserie Parc. The former Sous

Chef and then Executive Chef at El Vez assisted with the

successful opening of Buddakan and The Continental at The

Pier in Atlantic City before assuming his current position as

Parc’s Executive Chef: “At times I feel like an accountant

who wears a chef’s coat, but then I realize that a calcula-

tor would do me no good in trying to feed 1000 people 65

different things.”

the

Best Bread Philadelphia Magazine

Chef Arthur CavaliereParc

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An artichoke; a plain old artichoke, the greatest

ingredient God ever created.

sandwich wisdom

Hard bread, hard fillers; soft bread, soft fillers.


Growing up on my mother’s cream cheese and olive sandwich

on toasted wheat bread—3 days a week for 14 years.


Egg salad with bacon, always on rye toast with

extra toast on the side to sop up the spillage.

Chef Arthur CavaliereParc


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the united states of sandwiches

theunited states of sand-wiches

Sandwich Smash 2009 The United States of Sandwiches

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lobster roll

barbecue

clam roll

pastrami

italianbeef

hoagie

cubanomuffuletta &

green chilecheeseburger

fishtacos

banh mi

po’ boy

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While we are big believers in the sandwich freedom —whatever fits between your bread —there are certain combinations we wouldn’t dream of changing. These are our country’s regional iconic sandwiches, and they can be used to reveal the roots of local immigration and determine exactly what each ethnic group brought to the community culture. As the quickest way to layer the tastes of the old country into the new, sandwiches are probably our original fusion food.

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A throwback to the days when the Lower East Side of

Manhattan was the epicenter of Eastern European

immigration, packed with pushcart peddlers and

synagogues, pastrami has deep Jewish roots, even

appearing as a cultural stereotype in Woody Allen’s great

urban romance Annie Hall (1977), when Midwestern

transplant Hall (Diane Keaton) orders a “pastrami on white

bread with, uh, mayonnaise and tomatoes and lettuce,”

and New Yorker Alvy Singer (Woody) looks embarrassed

and then a little afraid.

pastramiin New York

pastrami

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Since the earliest colonial days, shell fishing has been

a vital part of New England’s coastal economy, from

Maine’s lobster fishing (probably the oldest, continuously

operated industry on the North American continent) to

clamming in Connecticut (Native Americans showed

colonists how to harvest clams, carving the white shells into

beads used for currency or “wampum”). We think a heap

of lobster or fried clams in a roll that requires a good grip

is nothing more than a device to turn seafood into heavier,

heartier family fare. A regional requirement: both must be

served on a toasted top-loading New England hot dog

bun, which looks like a small rectangular “box” made of

white bread.

Sandwich Smash 2009

lobster & clam rollfrom Maine to Connecticut

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lobster roll

clam roll

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Philadelphia is the largest fresh water port in the world

and the city’s famous hoagie was reportedly named for

the Italian immigrants who labored in the iron and steel

building naval shipyards on Hog Island (the world’s larg-

est shipyard during WWI). The “hoggie” was a meal on the

move with all the flavors of home: an assortment of cured

pork meats (prosciutto, sopressata and coppa), sharp

provolone cheese, and a makeshift salad of sorts (lettuce,

tomatoes, onions and hot peppers, dressed with oil, vinegar

and a pinch of dried oregano). The bread—typically

a crunchy seeded crust with a soft but substantial interior—

was merely transportation.

the hoagiein Philadelphia

hoagie

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Despite the talk about urban multiculturalism, the most

complex culinary unions in this country were in the rural

south, where Afro-Caribbean slaves and European land-

owners entwined their open-fire cooking techniques and

native ingredients into “plantation”-style cooking. As cultish

as barbecue has become, it was also the country’s most

democratic form of cooking: slaves may have cooked it, but

landowners staged it, and if you look at history you will see

great pit masters from diverse backgrounds. Today you will

still find significant sandwich variations according to specific

regionality, from method (whether the meat is chopped or

pulled) or flavor base (from vinegar to tomato).

barbecue in North Carolina

barbecue

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The Cubano was reportedly designed to feed Cuban

cigar factory workers transported to southern Florida, and

in the same fashion as other iconic regional sandwiches, it

starts with the bread: an 8-inch roll typically made with

lard, which accounts for its lightness, under a slathering of

butter, sugar-cured Bolo ham, Swiss cheese, and slow-

roasted marinated pork (lechon asado) with a tiny dagger

of tanginess from thinly sliced pickle and its juices needed

to pierce the richness of the fillings. The plancha (or press)

toasts the bread and warms the ingredients directly in

their own steam.

the cubanoin Miami

cubano



Like two dialects of the same language, the muffuletta

is exactly the same as a hoagie—only different. Because

90% of New Orleans’ turn-of-the-century’s Italian immigrants

were from Sicily, their wharf worker sandwich is on round,

soft, slightly hollow Sicilian bread (or muffuletta) and typical

salad toppings are translated into an idiosyncratic pickled

olive-laden vegetable medley, distantly related to capon-

nata, a sweet and sour eggplant relish reminder that Sicily

is a leading olive and caper growing area.

There’s also links between NOLA’s shrimp/oyster

po’ boy and Connecticut’s fried clam roll: (1) both turn

local seafood into heartier fare, and (2) both are served

on distinctive bread. New Orleans–style French bread from

the celebrated Leidenheimer Bakery has a lightly crisp

crust and interior as airy as cotton candy.

the muffuleta & po’ boy in New Orleans

muffuletta &po’ boy


The United States of Sandwiches

Although they are practically non-existent in the rest of

the country, you can get a green chile cheeseburger just

about anywhere in New Mexico. Ever since Sixteenth Cen-

tury Spanish Conquistadors led settlers along the El Camino

Real (the first European road in North America, stretching

from Mexico City to Santa Fe), this land has been part of the

Mexican frontier, and on it they grow more green chiles

(the state’s top cash crop) than anywhere else in the country.

green chilecheeseburgerin New Mexico

green chilecheeseburger



A convergence of three cultures—Californian, Mexican

and Baja surf—the fish taco is a link to New England’s

lobster roll and fried clam sandwich, probably created when

some hungry guy wrapped the catch-of- the-day in bread

as a way to produce a sold meal: corn tortilla, batter fried

fish, crema blanca, salsa, shredded cabbage (won’t wilt like

lettuce) and squeeze of fresh lime juice.

fish taco in southern California

fishtaco

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Sandwich Smash 2009

An example of a double immigration sandwich, the

baguette-style roll (lightened with rice flour) emerged dur-

ing the French colonization of Vietnam. But the Vietnamese

who migrated to the United States following the Saigon

evacuation in 1975 brought the Bahn Mi (and its distinctive

flavorings, like sweet red pork barbecued pork sprinkled with

slivers of lightly pickled cucumber and carrot seasoned with

jalapenos and cilantro) to us, paralleling the immigration

pattern: Hawaii, the West Coast, and eventually working its

way across the country to gain a foothold in the East.

bahn mi in San Francisco

banh mi

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The Italian beef is yet another sandwich distantly related

to Philadelphia’s hoagie. But unlike the hoagie’s layering

of cured pork meats and cheese, this is the bountiful prod-

uct of the city’s Union Stockyard. There’s beef so thinly sliced

it resembles a meat mille feuilles, topped by Giardinera,

another sort of “salad,” a relish of fermented shaved hot

peppers and celery that simply melts away when it hits the

hot beef, soaking its flavor all the way through into the

sandwich. It’s all served on Gonaella Bread: baked under

the direction of the same family since 1886, crisp-crusted

and substantial enough to stand up to dipping

the Italian beefin Chicago

italianbeef



Maybe you have a friend who raves about his or her hometown sandwich and maybe, even after you eat one, you don’t really get the big deal. Keep this to yourself. Sandwich/Citycriticism is not the privilege of an outsider. The emotional pull of a hometown sandwich has to do with nostalgia and other intangibles like roots” and neighborhood loyalty.

1by

Francine Maroukian

eating a regional sandwich: shut it

how tobehave

“

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Sandwich Smash 2009

Perhaps your discerning palate cries out for a sprinkling of locally harvested arugula or a slather of raw milk sheep cheese. Believe me, no one–especially not the sandwich maker –cares about your “improve-ments.” Just order and move along.

3When a highly touted sandwich joint looks like a hole-in-the-wall, it’s probably operating in its original location and deserves respect as a community institution.

2 { respect }

commentcard

Sandwich Smash 2009 EatingARegionalSandwich: HowToBehave

Page 58 Page 59

Stop and pay homage to the bread; it is always an important part of a sandwich’s mythology.

5Most famous sandwich places pack in the tourists and can be super crowded. As the line in front of you shrinks, you can feel the number of hungry people growing behind you. Pressure builds. Don’t waste time by dithering: listen and learn the proper ordering code. Since the counter people have heard it all, there might even be an instructional sign.

4 NEXT !

Sandwich Smash 2009 EatingARegionalSandwich: HowToBehave

Page 61Page 60

interview with a brewmaster

sandwiches & beer with michelob Lengthy trains still rattle through the Anheuser-Busch facility in St. Louis,

Missouri delivering the raw ingredients that will be made into beer, while

trucks line the loading docks of the red brick buildings to drive away freshly

crated cases.

350,000 tourists a year also rattle through the compound, peering into the

exacting processes of turning water, rice, hops and barley malt into beer.

The tour is a comprehensive view at the inner workings of this mammoth

manufacturer. But nestled neatly behind the original brewhouse is an

often overlooked and completely autonomous brewing facility: Michelob

Brewing Company.

Described as a brewery-within-a-brewery, Michelob is part research lab

and part brewmasters’ workshop—so unassuming that the casual visitor

might not notice its inconspicuous entrance.

by

Brian Newman

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Sandwich Smash 2009 Interview With A Brewmaster

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While the Budweiser recipe is definitively codified, Michelob brewmasters

are relentless experimenters, tinkering endlessly with ingredients and flavor,

always pushing the bounds of how beer can taste. New beers are regularly

unveiled at festivals around the country and up to 50 unique beers could

be brewing at any given moment. The sense of creative opportunity is

evident in the way brewmaster Adam Goodson talks about Michelob

beer. “It all has to do with a passion, to really love what you’re doing,” he

says while gazing affectionately around the fermentation cellar. “This is

something I love to do. I love making beer. And I love experimenting and

having freedom.”

Beer education is important to Michelob; informing beer consumers on

issues ranging from flavor complexities and appropriate serving temper-

atures to proper pouring techniques and draught line maintenance is a

tradition as old as the brand, and one that remains purposefully intact.

So when brewmaster Goodson asks, “Are you ready to go down and

taste some beer,” there should be no doubt that it will be an enlightening

experience.

“Beer is one of the ultimate liquids to pair with food,” he says while pouring

a flight of Michelob brews. “No matter if it’s chocolate or cheese, or a

steak and potato, or sandwiches.” Continuing on, Goodson describes the

process of pairing beer with some of America’s most iconic sandwiches.

Starting with lighter sandwiches (like fish), Goodson is quick to choose

Shock Top. “You’ll notice right off the bat that you get a little bit of orange,

maybe a little lemon/lime citrus peel flavors in there,” he says as his nose

moves toward the glass. “We actually add those three citrus peels as well

as coriander to the beer, and it’s a mix of all four of those that you smell. I

really like the different spices in there, and the coriander really helps it pair

up well with certain types of food. I usually like pairing Shock Top or wheat

beers with fish, because fish is usually a little bit lighter in flavor. It’s going to

have real delicate flavors on your tongue.”

“I like Pale Ale paired with cured meat,” Goodson says as he moves to a

second beer. “Depending on what you’re curing the meat with, you don’t

want to have anything that is going to be too powerful, but you need to

have a little bit more body than you would for fish. With Michelob Pale Ale,

you’re going to get some citrus-y, spicy aromas, but also you do get a little

bit of bitterness in this beer, a nice bitterness.”

The next coupling Goodson wants to discuss is barbecue pork paired with

Michelob Dunkel Weisse. “The first thing you’re going to smell is going to

be the clove and banana notes,” says Goodson. “You’re going to get a

little bit of that on the taste as well, and that comes from the type of yeast.

It’s a darker beer, so you really get some roasted malt flavors in there as

well. It’s really complex… and that’s why I would pair it with pulled pork.

You want to have something that’s going to be able to stand up to a lot of

spice or sweetness.”

Goodson matches a classic Philadelphia cheesesteak with Michelob AmberBock because, “it’s a darker bock beer, made with black and

caramel malts, so you’re going to get a little bit of roasted caramel, nutty

flavors in there, but it’s not going to be overly hopped, it’s not going to

be overly malty. It’s an incredibly drinkable darker beer. I pair this with

cheesesteak, because you’ve got those black and caramel malts in there

and you’ve got caramelized onions next to a huge pile of shaved meat.

And with the sweetness of the onions and the cheese, as well as the spicy

meat, you’ve got a beer that’s going to compliment all those flavors.”

Lastly, Goodson considers pairing sausage sandwiches with Michelob Original Lager. “I think it depends on the sausage. Lamb sausage is

different than andouille sausage, or something a little bit spicier. It’s more

mellow [and] I think that Michelob Original Lager is going to have some

floral spicy notes, but it’s a lager so it’s pretty clean and drinkable. I think

you’ve got two items here that are highly palatable working together. It’s

going to cut through a little bit of the spicy meat flavors from the sausage.”

Satisfied with his descriptions, but already considering alternate menu

pairings, the brewmaster smiles broadly and instinctively reiterates what

could be a kind of manifesto in this brewery. “It’s just a place to start,

there’s no wrong answer. It’s really about experimenting and trying

new things.”

pairs well withbbq pork

pairs well withcheesesteakpairs well

with fish

pairs well withcured meat

pairs well withsausagesandwiches


Sandwich Smash 2009 Interview With A Brewmaster

capogirogelato

the only way to follow a great sandwichPhiladelphia’s Capogiro makes authentic Italian gelato with a softer, silkier texture than traditional hard-packed ice cream, and flavors

that one might be more accustomed to finding inside a restaurant than

an ice cream parlor. Only the freshest ingredients make their way into

Capogiro’s daily selection, mostly sourced from local farms and producers.

Flavors change with the seasons, as new crops reach their peak of

ripeness. The milk comes exclusively from hormone-free, grass-fed dairy

cows in rural Pennsylvania, ensuring that the gelato has a clean flavor,

allowing the fruits, herbs, nuts and other all-natural ingredients to shine.

Chef / owner Stephanie Reitano still makes each batch of gelato by

hand, even though Capogiro has expanded into two new storefronts

in recent months and their wholesale business continues to grow.

Capogiro serves many styles of hot and cold Italian sandwiches, as

well as gelato con brioche, an ice cream sandwich of sorts served on

a lightly sweetened, flaky brioche roll.

We asked Chef Reitano how to pair some popular styles of sandwiches

with gelato. For something lighter, like tuna, she recommends the

rich flavor of ciccola scuro (dark chocolate). With cured meats, the

bitter-sweet burnt sugar balances the salt in the charcuterie. For

something spicy and vinegary like barbecue, look for something fruity

and fresh like the seasonal berries or stone fruit flavors. For heartier

cooked meat sandwiches, go for something creamy like goat’s milk or

nocciola piemontese (hazelnut from Italy’s Piedmont region). And

for lamb, she chooses a classic pairing with fig.

Of course, there are no mistakes when it comes to eating Capogiro

gelato. With over 250 flavors rotating throughout the year, it is impossible

to resist trying a few new combinations and figuring out some creative

pairings on your own.


Sandwich Smash 2009 Capogiro

chipHerr’s Ripples Potato Chips

sandwichItalian hoagie

reasonThe combination of flavors in this multi-

layered sandwich needs the simplicity

of the naked potato taste: clean,

crisp, classic. We prefer the ripple version

as a way to offset the smooth texture of

the sliced meat and cheese.

potatochippairings

we layer our chips into our sandwiches like crisp, salty lettuce

Sandwich Smash 2009 Potato Chip Pairings


chip

Herr’s Potato Chips with Old Bay Seasoning

sandwichTurkey, preferably the

day-after-Thanksgiving variety

reasonBecause turkey can be a blank taste canvas,

it needs the spice punch. We tasted bay leaf,

allspice, cloves, celery salt, peppercorns,

mustard and paprika for sure—everything

but the crab. Bonus: the spices settle in the

channels created by the ripples.

chip

Herr’s Kettle Cooked Sour Cream

and Onion Potato Chips

sandwichpastrami or corn beef

reasonPotatoes, sour cream, and a little onion

alongside deli meat makes a beautiful

balance with a dill pickle: it’s only natural.

We call it the “latke factor.”

chip

Herr’s Salt & Vinegar Potato Chips

sandwichTuna

reasonWe think of this as an Americanized fish and

chips, and the pronounced vinegar flavor

provides just the right tanginess to cut though

the tuna taste.

chip

Herr’s Kettle Cooked

Mesquite BBQ Potato Chips

sandwichroast beef

reasonUntil they make a horseradish chip,

we’ll stick with these to give some sweet

smokiness to our rare beef.

Carrying the official Old Bay

trademark, these chips are sprinkled

with the secret spice mix developed in

1939 by crab city Baltimore resident

and German immigrant Gustav Brunn.

In 2008, about 50 million ounces of

Old Bay were sold.

Kettle chips are a regional Penn-

sylvania development a throw back

to the earlier days of farm-style

potato chips. Instead of undergoing

a continuous fryer process that turns

out a steady stream of regular “flat”

chips, kettle chips are produced in a

smaller batch-by-batch method under

the watchful eye of “fry masters” who

employ different techniques and timing

to turn out a variety of crisp, curled

chips with a harder bite.

Page �0 Page �1

Potato Chip Pairings

recipes Peter McAndrewsPaesano’s Gustaio

per sandwich

Split 2 links lamb sausage open

horizontally and brown in a hot heavy skillet

over moderately high heat until cooked

through, about 3 to 5 minutes depending

upon thickness. (You want to brown them

without too much movement so the surface

of the open edges caramelize and get

crispy. We use our own house made lamb

sausage, but any good butcher should be

able to provide you with a substitute). Place

a flat bread over sausage in pan briefly

to soften (it will color slightly) and remove

pan from heat. Spread one side of the

bread with Gorgonzola cheese and top

with a layer sun dried cherry mustarda (add 6 cups sun dried cherries to pot of

boiling/rolling water with 3 cups red wine vinegar, 1 cup sugar and .5 cup coarse salt. When liquid reduces by half, take pot

from heat and add 1 to 2 tablespoons mustard oil and salt again to taste. Bring to

room temperature and store in refrigerator

for up to 2 weeks.). Add roasted fennel (coarsely chopped, tossed with olive oil, salt

and sugar and roasted at high heat), oven roasted tomatoes and baby arugula and

roll the bread into a wrap sandwich.

Rick OlivieriOlivieri’s Chicken steak

per sandwich

Slit a seeded hoagie roll in half lengthwise

and spread one half with pesto (spreading

only one side will keep the pesto flavor from

overpowering the sandwich). In a skillet

over medium heat, heat 2 tbsp. canola oil and cook 8-ounces of chicken “steak”

until fully cooked through, about 2 minutes

each side. (I use a commercially sliced

chicken, but regular chicken tenderloins

that have been pounded flat will work.)

Halve 2 or 3 slices of Cooper Sharp American cheese (or substitute any sharp

American rather than one with a mellow

flavor) and place on top of the chicken

during the last minute of cooking so the

cheese melts a bit, creating a “dome” over

the meat. Using a large spatula, transfer

prepared chicken steak with cheese to

bottom half of split roll. Add 2 drained and diced sun-dried tomatoes (these also have

concentrated flavor, so just a little adds a

lot of flavor.) Close with top half of roll and

press down lightly to seal.

Page �2 Page ��

Sandwich Smash 2009 Recipes

Michael SolomonovZahav’s Merguez in pita

with green tehina and harissa

for 4 sandwiches

for the Merguez kebabs

In a large stainless steel bowl, place

2 pounds ground lamb (80/20: a mix

80% meat and 20% fat), .5 teaspoons dextrose (available at specialty food

stores), .25 cup of chopped cilantro leaves, .25 teaspoon ground caraway seed, 1 teaspoon ground fennel seed, 1 teaspoon ground coriander, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, 5 tablespoons crushed Aleppo peppers (a chili pepper from

northern Syria with medium heat and a

distinctive flavor, available in Middle Eastern

markets), 2 tablespoon minced garlic, 1.25 tablespoon kosher salt. Using your

hands, knead the mixture for approximately

5 minutes, or until the meat looks doughy

and emulsified. Cover and refrigerate for at

least 1 hour or until the mixture is thoroughly

chilled. Divide the mixture into eight equal

portions and roll each piece into a sausage-

like shape. Form each kebab around flat,

metal skewers. Refrigerate the kebabs on

the skewers for another hour. Cook the

kebabs over hot coals for 4 minutes per

side, or until light pink in the center.

for the Harissa

In a food processor, place 1 ounce roasted red pepper (peeled and seeded),

2 ounces crushed Aleppo pepper, 2 garlic cloves (germ removed; this is the

small sprout in the center of the clove), 1 tablespoon coriander seed, 1 tablespoon caraway seed, 1 tablespoon cumin seed, 2 ounces red wine vinegar, 2 tablespoons sweet smoked paprika, .25 cup cilantro leaves (loosely packed), .5 cup vegetable oil. Pulse until the mixture resembles a

coarse meal. Season to taste with kosher

salt.

for the green tehina

In a blender, place .5 cup sesame paste, .5 cup cold water, 1 clove of minced garlic, .25 cup fresh lemon juice, .5 cup Italian or flat leaf parsley leaves

(loosely packed), .25 cup roughly chopped chives, .25 cup chopped dill, 2 tablespoons chopped mint. Process until

smooth. Season to taste with kosher salt and

ground black pepper.

to assemble

Place the four cooked skewers on four

individual pita breads. Drizzle with the green

tehina and harissa and roll sandwiches

like cigar. Slice on diagonal and serve

(preferably with a cold lager).

Mark CoatesPimento cheese sandwich

per sandwich

Maybe you’ve never heard of it. But

Pimento cheese is a regional specialty,

something you can find in many a Southern

grocery store. It was especially popular

during the Depression because –like a lot of

down home foods—it shows that you can

do a lot with just a little. Take 2 cups finely shredded sharp cheddar cheese and

mix thoroughly with a small jar (2oz) of diced pimento (2 ounces), 3 tablespoons dill relish, 1.5 cups mayonnaise, .25 teaspoon garlic powder, .25 teaspoon onion powder. Spread on white toast. It’s

also good on top of a burger or a hot dog.

Arthur CavaliereParc’s Baguette Provencal

per sandwich

Split a crusty baguette in half lengthwise

and lightly coat each side with ripe

Camembert (This cheese is crumbly and

soft at the beginning of its ripening period

but gets creamier over time. A wedge

that is mature to the heart will be creamy

enough to spread). On bottom half of

the baguette, layer thinly sliced Petit Jesuit (a coarse ground salami, rather

like a French- style sopressata, available

http://www.salumeriabiellese.com). Top

with about 8 Nicoise olives (pitted and

roughly chopped) and cornichon. Sprinkle

with Herbs d’ Provence (a mixture of

dried herbs from the region of Provence,

including lavender, fennel and thyme), and

a drizzle of mustard vinaigrette (In medium

bowl, combine .5 cup Dijon mustard, .5 cup white wine vinegar, pinch of sugar. Slowly whisk in 1 cup grapeseed oil, .5 cup extra virgin olive oil, whisking constantly to

emulsify. Season to taste with salt and white

pepper). Close with top half of roll and press

down lightly to seal.

Page ��

Sandwich Smash 2009 Recipes

thanks

sponsors

Unbreaded

Esquire

Michelob Brewing Company

Park Hyatt Philadelphia at The Bellevue

Herr’s

Philadelphia Magazine

Stroehmann Baking Company

ShopRite Partners In Caring

Philip Gabriel Photography

Capogiro

Metropolitan Bakery

Provenance Old Soul

Architectural Salvage

Visual Resouces

Moda Botanica

Philabundance

Thank you to our corporate partners,

Stroehmann Baking Company and

ShopRite Partners In Caring, for their

generous donations to our peanut

butter & jelly food drive.

e-book credits

editorialJeff Vogel

[email protected]

Ben Kessler

[email protected]

Francine Maroukian

Brian Newman

designwmwmwm.com

art direction, design: William Morrisey

design: Daniel Dickson

photographyAll photography by Philip Gabriel Photog-

raphy, except where noted

pp 32 - 55

the United States of Sandwiches

flickr creative commons: T-Bet / Tarah,

Kthread, Unbreaded, Gabriel Fredericks,

Dommichu, Southernbredgirl, Buck82, e.t.,

Marshall Astor, Florian, Anjuli Ayers, Avlxyz

p 66

Unbreaded

Sandwich Smash 2009 sponsors & credits

Page ��


http://www.wmwmwm.com

end

this e-book commemoratesSandwich Smash 2009

October 4th 2009, 5-8pm

Park Hyatt Philadelphia at The Bellevue

The event showcased chefs from five

of Philadelphia’s top restaurants,

who made their signature sandwiches

in front of a live audience.

Each guest was served a five-course

meal of the featured sandwiches, plus

beverages from Michelob Brewing Co.,

snack foods from Herr’s, and dessert

from Capogiro.

Participants Chef Michael Solomonov, Zahav

Chef Peter McAndrews, Paesano’s

Chef Arthur Cavaliere, Parc

Rick Olivieri, Rick’s Steaks

Mark Coates, Bebe’s Barbecue

For more info go to sandwichsmash.comProceeds benefit Philabundance.

http://www.sandwichsmash.com

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