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Santiago, Chile
Overview
Introduction
Santiago, like Chile in general, has enjoyed a renaissance of
cultural, intellectual and especially commercial activity for
more than two consecutive decades. The Andes Mountains
overlook Santiago's eastern edge, and their snowy peaks
provide good hiking, skiing, rafting and kayaking—and the
beach is only a short drive away. Small wonder it is the
country's capital and largest city, and one of the continent's
largest metropolises.
Centro (downtown Santiago) is still dotted with Spanish
colonial buildings and old churches, as well as many sparkling new modern buildings. Other
neighborhoods house international restaurants, upscale boutiques and lively nightlife. Tourist areas are
compact, and the resident Santiaguinos are pleasantly helpful. The city has a certain efficiency not found
elsewhere in Latin America, and an obvious prosperous feel to it. The major drawback is that ongoing
development and traffic congestion have created air pollution and smog, and the shanty towns on the
outskirts appear to be growing (albeit in a controlled state).
Highlights
Sights—The city's birthplace, beautiful Cerro Santa Lucia; the wrought-iron splendor and colorful,
otherworldly seafood of the Mercado Central; the presidential Palacio de la Moneda and the nearby,
bustling downtown square Plaza de Armas.
Museums—Ancient art at Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino; poet Pablo Neruda's home, La
Chascona; the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes—the building alone is worth the visit; extensive
international fashion history exhibits at the Museo de la Moda; Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos
Humanos, recalling the trauma of the Pinochet dictatorship; a visit to the many excellent private art
galleries in the city, such as Galeria Animal and Galeria de Arte Isabel Aninat in Santiago's posh Vitacura
barrio.
Memorable Meals—A meal at the world-renowned Puerto Fuy; a magical, romantic dinner at Como Agua
para Chocolate; a taste of some of Chile's many rare seafood delicacies at Infante 51; a tableside
serenade of Latin love songs at the funky El Caramano; cool cuisine and new fusions at Zully.
Late Night—Dancing at Las Urracas; a bottle of wine while soaking up live jazz at the intimate El
Perseguidor in Bellavista; salsa dancing at Havana Salsa; live music at La Batuta.
Walks—A jaunt along the Mapocho River in Parque Forestal; scaling the (modest) heights of Cerro San
Cristobal for panoramic views of the city; a Saturday-evening stroll in lively Bellavista; a walk through the
historic Lastarria neighborhood to visit its many specialty shops, museums and cafes.
Especially for Kids—Fantasilandia; the Museo Interactivo Mirador; taking the funicular train up the hill to
the charming national zoo at Cerro San Cristobal.
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Geography
Santiago is divided in half by a river, the Mapocho, which runs east to west through the city. Much of the
civic and tourist activity is concentrated on the southern bank. That's where you'll find the downtown area,
known as Centro, which is basically a triangle bounded by the river, Alameda (the city's major
thoroughfare) and the Pan-American Highway.
Barrio Brasil is the traditional neighborhood just west of Centro, with the Barrio Yungay and Quinta
Normal districts farther west; to the east, Barrio Lastarria is a rapidly growing gastronomic, shopping and
nightlife zone. Heading east from Centro, you'll find a succession of smart neighborhoods: Providencia,
Las Condes and Vitacura in particular. These neighborhoods contain the bulk of Santiago's hotels, plus
some fine restaurants and shops.
Generally speaking, the farther northeast you go, the more exclusive the neighborhoods become. On the
north bank of the river, opposite Centro, Barrio Bellavista is an area of fine restaurants and lively nightlife.
The Paris-Londres neighborhood, centered around the San Francisco church, is one of the few districts
left that still evokes 1920s Santiago, with its cobbled streets and low-slung town houses, some of them
now serving as small hotels.
Rather than use compass points to explain directions, most folks in Santiago use the looming Andes as
the key reference point. On clear, relatively unpolluted days (which alas, seem to be getting fewer and
fewer), it is easy to orient yourself in the urban sprawl simply by remembering that the Andes are always
to the east.
History
When Pedro de Valdivia led a Spanish expedition from Peru to the land that would become Chile in 1540,
he had to contend with both an attempted mutiny by many of his men and violent resistance from the
native peoples of the region, the Araucanians and Picunches. He and his remaining men founded
Santiago del Nuevo Extremo on 12 February 1541 and built a fortress at the foot of a hill he named Santa
Lucia. They spent the next two years under siege as Picunche guerrillas attacked them constantly. It was
only with the assistance of Peruvian reinforcements that the attacks subsided, though periodic battles
between the Araucanians and the colonists continued into the next century. Major earthquakes in 1647
and 1730 also slowed growth in the area.
A number of Santiago's major governmental structures were erected at the end of the 18th century and
during the first decade of the 19th century. However, the city's cultural and intellectual importance was
modest. Chile won its independence from Spain in 1818, and the leader of the Chilean liberation
movement, Bernardo O'Higgins, is a national hero. Santiago didn't begin to become a metropolis until
after World War I, when jobless nitrate miners from the Atacama Desert moved there.
After World War II, the process accelerated with industrialization, and an influx of rural Chileans rapidly
swelled Santiago's neighborhoods with apartments, housing projects and vast commercial spaces.
Santiago's darkest hour arrived on 11 September 1973, when military insurgents stormed the city, taking
over radio stations and bombing La Moneda, the presidential palace. The popularly elected Socialist
president, Salvador Allende Gossens, refused the military's calls to resign and is believed to have
committed suicide. The leader of the coup, Gen. Augusto Pinochet Ugarte, installed himself as the
country's leader and ruled until his defeat in a 1988 referendum. Though internationally rebuked for
oppressive tactics and human-rights violations, Pinochet's authoritarian government did manage to push
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through economic reforms that made Chile economically stable and successfully implemented
communications and infrastructure projects.
Pinochet was arrested in the U.K. in October 1998 after a Spanish judge issued an international warrant
over human-rights violations, but was released on medical grounds and returned to Chile in March 2000.
Pinochet's arrest provoked an avalanche of other human-rights-related arrests within Chile, involving
dozens of his former generals and officers. Pinochet himself was stripped of parliamentary immunity in
Chile in 2000, and in January 2005 was placed under house arrest in Santiago and indicted for the
disappearance of nine opposition activists and the murder of one. His family remains under investigation
for illegal enrichment after the discovery of numerous bank accounts, some under pseudonyms, in the
U.S. and elsewhere. Several of them were also charged with possessing false passports. In December
2006, Pinochet died of a heart attack at the age of 91. The center-left government of Michelle Bachelet
refused to hold a state funeral.
Bachelet, whose father died in 1974 after being tortured and jailed by Pinochet's military government, was
the first woman president in Chile's history. She made an ambitious "social protection" agenda the focus
of her four-year term, and ended in March 2010 with sky-high approval ratings. Her replacement was
Sebastian Pinera, a center-right billionaire businessman who distanced himself from Pinochet and the
extreme right at an early stage—to the displeasure of many diehards allied with the dictatorship.
Port Information
Location
For nautical visitors to Chile, the port of Valparaiso (Terminal de Pasajeros) is 75 mi/120 km west of
Santiago. The clean, modern cruise-passenger terminal, which receives only about 40 vessels per year
because of high port charges, was built in 2003 and features a cafe and bar, Internet connections,
souvenir shops and tourist-information kiosks. Cruise ships dock alongside the cargo terminals, and
passengers are bused to the nearby passenger terminal. Phone 32-255-6391. http://www.vtp.cl.
Potpourri
Santiago's exemplary metro system links together five numbered lines—No. 1, No. 2, No. 4, No. 4-A and
No. 5—but there is no No. 3. It was projected but never built.
Chile is wine country, and Santiago has three commercial wineries—two of them with vineyards—within
the city limits, and several more just outside.
Santiago is Chile's capital, but Congress is housed elsewhere in Valparaiso, Chile.
In theory, at least, Santiago's proximity to both the Andes and the Pacific Ocean makes it possible to go
skiing and surfing on the same day.
Chile is a biogeographical island, surrounded on all sides by the Andes, Pacific Ocean and the Atacama
Desert. This geographical isolation has led to the development of a high rate of endemic plant and animal
species found nowhere else in the world. About half of Chile's roughly 5,000 plant species are considered
endemic.
The Telefonica CTC communications company built its Santiago corporate headquarters in the shape of a
35-story cell phone.
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Chileans have formed hundreds of slang terms. The most popular word that is bandied about is huevon
(pronounced WHAY-von), which has multiple meanings depending on its context. It can be, for example,
a friendly greeting: "How are you, huevon?" Or, the term can be stated as an insult if said in anger: "You
huevon!"
See & Do
Sightseeing
Thanks to an exceptional subway system, getting around for sightseeing is easy except at peak hours,
when the trains can get uncomfortably crowded. For navigational purposes, get a good map and note the
main thoroughfare, Avenida Libertador General O'Higgins (popularly known as the Alameda), which
becomes Avenida Providencia as it heads northeast. Everything, more or less, is along or just off this
avenue, and the main subway line runs beneath it. When in doubt, look for the Andes Mountains. If
they're to your right, you're heading north; to your left, you're heading south; if they're in front of you,
you're eastward bound; if they're behind you, you're going west.
Visitors interested in history or architecture will be impressed by the many colonial-era Spanish buildings
and churches that dot the historic Centro area, especially the hilltop Cerro Santa Lucia, where Pedro de
Valdivia founded the fortress that became Santiago. Those more curious about modern Chilean life will
want to gravitate toward the cafes of Barrio Brasil or Bellavista—the center of the city's bohemian culture
and home to galleries, theaters, street performers and nightlife. Also in Bellavista is one of Santiago's
most-recognized and frequented sights, the Statue of the Virgin, which stands atop the 2,800-ft/853-m
Cerro San Cristobal—take the funicular railway, or it's also a fairly easy (and safe) walk.
Throughout the city are several good art and history museums, ranging from the Museo Nacional de
Bellas Artes to the University of Santiago's planetarium to the excellent Museo Chileno de Arte
Precolombino. Santiago also has many parks and plazas: Parque Metropolitano (the city's largest) and
Parque Quinta Normal are two of the most interesting parks, and the winding Parque Forestal is one of
the nicest; the best plazas are the historic Plaza de Armas and Plaza Nunoa. Wildlife buffs and thrill
seekers will enjoy the city's zoo, but its amusement parks, although serviceable, are somewhat lackluster
and run-down.
Probably the best way to tackle the city is to visit one neighborhood a day, beginning with the culturally
and historically significant Centro and nearby Barrio Lastarria. You might then hit Barrio Bellavista and
Providencia, and Barrio Brasil, Barrio Yungay and the Quinta Normal, taking at least one full day to see
each cluster. You'll find that walking is really the best way to get around (during the day, anyway). There
are so many surprises in Santiago—its architecture, sounds and people—that it is really worth taking the
time to explore on foot.
Be aware that some sights vary their hours by season, with longer hours in summer (December-February)
than in winter (June-August).
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Historic Sites
Catedral Metropolitana Plaza de Armas, Santiago Centro Santiago, Chile Phone: 696-2777 http://www.iglesiadesantiago.cl/catedral.php Dominating the west side of the Plaza de Armas is Santiago's baroque cathedral, the fifth church erected
on the site (the others met their doom in earthquakes). The building was begun in 1748 and has
undergone a seemingly endless series of modifications (it seems always to require some additional
construction). Particularly interesting are the massive cedar doors of the main facade, the main altar with
its elegant carved wooden seats, and the mighty silver Altar del Santisimo. There is also a rare wooden
statue of a recumbent St. Francis Xavier, and the chandelier that lit the first meetings of the Chilean
Congress immediately after independence is kept there. The Bavarian Jesuits of the Hacienda Calera del
Tango created all of these works in the mid-18th century.
Open Monday-Saturday 9 am-7 pm, Sunday 9 am-noon. Free.
Cementerio General Avenida La Paz, Recoleta Santiago, Chile Phone: 737-9469 http://www.cementeriogeneral.cl Santiago's most picturesque cemetery is the final resting place of many historical figures, most notably
President Salvador Allende (who appears to have killed himself during the military coup of 1973) and
legendary leftist folk singers Violeta Parra and Victor Jara. The cemetery also includes a massive wall
with the names of the 3,000 victims (the desaparecidos) of the military dictatorship that ruled Chile 1973-
90.
Daily 8:30 am-6 pm. Free for pedestrians, Ch$1,000 for cars.
Iglesia de la Merced/Museo de la Merced MacIver 341 Santiago, Chile Phone: 664-9189 http://www.museolamerced.cl With its bright yellow pillars and orange facade, this is one of the most distinctive churches in Santiago. In
the right nave is the tortured likeness of the Cristo de la Agonia, thought to be a gift from Spanish King
Felipe II. Entombed beneath the floor of the church is the body of Ines de Suarez, who arrived in Chile in
the company of Pedro de Valdivia, making her the first Spanish woman to set foot in the country. She is
accorded the status of a conquistadora by the nation. In the corner tower is an immense bell. Adjoining
the church is the Museo de la Merced, with a small but interesting collection of religious iconography and
other artifacts, including a fine display about Easter Island that holds one of the few rongo rongo tablets
remaining outside of the island itself.
Church open daily 9 am-1:30 pm and 5-8 pm; museum open Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and 3-6 pm.
Ch$1,000.
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Iglesia de San Francisco and Museo Colonial San Francisco Londres 4 Santiago, Chile Phone: 639-8737 http://www.museosanfrancisco.cl This grand, rather austere church is the oldest in Chile (begun in 1583, but with a 19th-century bell
tower). On the principal altar is the Virgen del Socorro, the first image of the Virgin to arrive in Chile,
brought by Pedro de Valdivia. Valdivia's wife, Marina Ortiz de Gaete, as well as Joaquin Toesca and
other important figures in the history of the capital, are buried below the church. Right next to the church
is the San Francisco Convent and Museum, home to Chile's Franciscan order since 1553. The museum
has one of the continent's finest collections of paintings from the Cusco school of religious art.
Church open Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Museum open Tuesday-Saturday
10 am-1 pm and 3-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Ch$1,000.
La Chascona Fernando Marquez de la Plata 0192 Santiago, Chile Phone: 737-8741 http://www.fundacionneruda.org/en/la-chascona/address.html Literary buffs and fans of the movie Il Postino will want to visit this onetime home of Pablo Neruda (1904-
73), the Nobel Prize-winning Chilean poet and diplomat. At the foot of Cerro San Cristobal, the site
overseen by the Fundacion Pablo Neruda displays the house as Neruda lived in it, including its library
and gardens, but has added a cafe, bookstore and souvenir shop. Makes an excellent stop during a visit
to Bellavista.
Daily except Monday 10 am-1 pm and 3-6 pm (till 7 pm in January and February). Ch$3,500 per person
guided tours in Spanish, English or French.
Palacio de la Moneda Morande 130, Centro Santiago, Chile Phone: 690-4000 http://www.presidencia.cl One of the finest colonial constructions in Spanish America, La Moneda is the masterwork of Italian
architect Joaquin Toesca y Ricci, who is responsible for much of the neoclassical architecture in the city.
Finished in 1805, La Moneda originally housed Chile's mint, but today it is the official seat of the
government's executive branch. Following the election of President Ricardo Lagos in 1999, the pedestrian
walkway that lines the interior patios was opened to the public for the first time. You can also watch the
changing of the guard every other day at 10 am at the principal entrance off Plaza Constitucion, the civic
hub of Santiago. Guided tours are offered only in Spanish and ideally should be reserved a week in
advance, though it's worth trying on shorter notice.
Pedestrian walkway open daily 10 am-6 pm.
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Plaza de Armas
This is the heart of downtown Santiago, home to the cathedral, National History Museum, Casa Colorada
and Central Post Office. It bustles with activity around the clock, with street artists and mimes rubbing
elbows with evangelical preachers, sidewalk vendors, lawyers, politicians and immigrants newly arrived
from the countryside. Check out the historical maps of Santiago displayed along the northern edge of the
plaza in front of the museum and the post office. They show Santiago's expansion since its founding and
are guarded by an imposing statue of Chile's conqueror, Pedro de Valdivia. To reach the Plaza, take Line
5 (green line) of the Metro to the Plaza de Armas stop, or walk north from the Alameda along the main
pedestrian mall, Paseo Ahumada.
Museums
Museo Artequin Portales 3530 (across from Parque Quinta Normal) Santiago, Chile Phone: 681-8656 http://www.artequin.cl The Museo Artequin is set in the unusual Pabellon de Paris building, which was fabricated in Paris in
1889 to house Chile's display in the World's Fair and then was disassembled and shipped to Chile.
However, it did not become a museum until 1993. Principally for children, this interactive exhibition space
features reproductions of great works of art (such as the Mona Lisa), slide shows and multimedia
displays. The exhibits, though somewhat preachy, are designed to promote artistic interest and ability.
Tuesday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Closed in February. Ch$800 adults,
Ch$500 students, free for seniors.
Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino Bandera 361 Santiago, Chile Phone: 928-1500 http://www.precolombino.cl Located on the second floor of the Colonial Palacio Real Casa de Aduana (Customs House), Santiago's
pre-Columbian art museum houses an important private collection of 3,000 indigenous-art pieces. The
collection is divided into six geographical areas: the Sala Mesoamerica (Central America and Mexico), the
Sala Caribe (Caribbean islands), the Sala Intermedia (mostly Panama, Colombia and Ecuador), the Sala
Andes Centrales (mostly highland Bolivia and Peru), the Sala Amazonas (lowland Amazonia) and the
Sala Andes del Sur (Chile and northwestern Argentina). Displays are labeled in Spanish and English.
There is also an excellent display of Andean textiles. A well-stocked museum store sells books and
replicas of pieces by Chilean indigenous groups. Don't miss the silver jewelry of the Mapuche Indians of
southern Chile. English-speaking guides are on staff (call for reservations).
Daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm. Ch$3,000 adults, Ch$1,000 students, free for children younger than
13.
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Museo de Arte Contemporaneo Parque Forestal (in front of Calle Mosqueto) Santiago, Chile Phone: 977-1741 http://www.mac.uchile.cl This previously restored and enlarged facility occupies the back half of the Museo de Bellas Artes (the
entrance is separate). The Museo de Arte Contemporaneo has a collection of approximately 2,000
contemporary paintings, sculptures, engravings and photographs. There are also rotating exhibits and
periodic shows of student work. The building's high, arched iron-and-glass ceiling creates a bright, airy
atmosphere. Just outside is Parque Forestal, which holds a characteristically obese horse sculpted by the
Colombian Fernando Botero, donated to the city by the artist in 1992. On Sunday afternoon, this area fills
up with jugglers, magicians, vendors and people from all walks of life.
Tuesday-Saturday 11 am-7 pm, Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Ch$600 adults, Ch$400 students and seniors.
Donations also accepted for post-quake restoration.
Museo de Artes Visuales Jose Victorino Lastarria 307 Santiago, Chile Phone: 638-3502 http://www.mavi.cl This modern-art museum contains a collection of contemporary Chilean paintings, including works by the
20th-century muralist Roberto Matta. There are six exhibition rooms, one on each level. But the most
interesting thing about the museum may be the building itself, which is squeezed into a narrow space at
the back of tiny Plaza de Mulato Gil. It occasionally has displays and exhibitions in the plaza itself.
Although the rest of the plaza has an enchanting old-world feel, the modern facade of the museum makes
it a controversial addition to the neighborhood. The museum is handicap-accessible.
Daily except Monday 10:30 am-6:30 pm. Ch$1,000 adults, Ch$500 students and seniors. Free on
Sunday.
Museo de Historia Natural Parque Quinta Normal Santiago, Chile Phone: 680-4600 http://www.dibam.cl/historia_natural This museum is a fine introduction to the country's diverse flora, fauna, geology and ecology. The
permanent display is arranged along a long, narrow tunnel, intended to evoke the country's unusual
shape. Strolling through the galleries, you symbolically pass from the northern part of the country, through
the central region and finally to the extreme south. The museum also houses extensive collections of
fossils, butterflies and other insects, stuffed birds and artifacts from Easter Island, including two volcanic
moai and two rongo rongo hieroglyphic tablets. In the central hall is the massive skeleton of a blue whale.
The museum's only drawback is its lack of English translation.
Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-5:30 pm, Sunday and holidays 11 am-5:30 pm. Ch$600 adults, Ch$300
students and seniors.
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Museo de la Moda Vitacura 4562, Vitacura Santiago, Chile Phone: 219-3623 http://museodelamoda.cl This extremely hip, privately owned museum has won rave reviews internationally for the quantity and
quality of the fashion exhibits it has to offer. Its owner, Jorge Yarur, has purchased more than 10,000 of
the world's best pieces of fashion history, including rare dresses from the 16th century, clothes from the
leading designers of the past century, and clothes that belonged to celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe,
Clark Gable, Madonna and Princess Diana. A recent acquisition is John Lennon's military-style jacket
from the cover of The Beatles' Sergeant Pepper's Lonely Hearts Club Band album cover.
Tuesday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-7 pm. Ch$3,500 adults, Ch $2,000 students
and seniors.
Sunday 9:30 am-6:30 pm. Ch$3,900 adults; Ch$2,600 children, students and seniors.
Neighborhoods & Districts
Barrio Brasil/Estacion Central
Just west of downtown, the Barrio Brasil area was once among the most elegant neighborhoods in
Santiago. Rundown until recently, it's undergoing rapid renewal as private universities, restaurants and
artists renovate its classic mansions, and once-vacant lots fill with stylish new apartments and lofts. The
center of the neighborhood is Plaza Brasil, whose playground is a series of sculptures made by the
daughter of famous Chilean painter Roberto Matta. Shaded by palms and other exotic trees, it's a
pleasant place to spend an afternoon. Beyond the western edge of Barrio Brasil are the Quinta Normal
and Estacion Central areas; the latter takes its name from the spectacular iron-and-glass train station.
(Keep watch over your belongings when around the crowded station, as it sometimes attracts thieves
looking to rob unsuspecting tourists.) This area is also home to the University of Santiago and, just north
of that, Quinta Normal, the park where the Natural History and Artequin museums are found. In the
southern region of Barrio Brasil/Estacion Central are Parque O'Higgins and Club Hipico, Santiago's
classic thoroughbred racetrack.
Bellavista
Although some complain that the city's original bohemian area has become oversaturated with tourists
and that police are overprotective, Bellavista remains the center of Santiago's artistic and intellectual life,
bustling with galleries, restaurants, cafes and theaters. Chile's most famous literary figure, poet Pablo
Neruda, lived there, and his former home remains a pilgrimage site for literary travelers and political
sympathizers (Neruda was an unrepentant Communist). This neighborhood is also home to the hilltop
Statue of the Virgin, a common postcard image that stands at the summit of Cerro San Cristobal.
Sprawling northeast from the edge of Bellavista is Parque Metropolitano, the city's largest and most
impressive park (also home to the national zoo).
Centro
The city's downtown is the center of civic and business activity and contains most of the city's historical
sites and major museums. The streets are laid out in a grid and are easy to navigate. Colonial-era
structures and places of worship sit side-by-side with modern businesses, government offices,
embassies, restaurants and hotels.
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Las Condes
An exclusive neighborhood, primarily residential, Las Condes is to the east of Providencia. While most of
the city's cultural attractions are elsewhere, many of Santiago's movers and shakers call Las Condes
home. It also has a number of excellent art galleries and private schools.
Lastarria
Adjacent to Bellavista and near the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and the Museo de Arte
Contemporaneo is a neighborhood packed with restaurants, theaters, booksellers and antiques dealers,
extending to the historic street Jose Victorino Lastarria (its pedestrian mall has a weekend antiques and
crafts market). Worth a visit on Lastarria are the Plaza Mulato Gil de Castro, the Museo Arqueologico de
Santiago and the Visual Arts Museum.
Providencia
East of downtown, this trendy neighborhood is home to embassies, fine hotels, restaurants, bars,
boutiques, galleries and the like. Its attractions are fairly scattered, but the subway makes a number of
convenient stops in the area. To traditionalists, Providencia and neighboring Las Condes have become
symbols of U.S. cultural influence, with their fast-food franchises, mall developers and big-name stores.
The Alameda
Not so much a specific destination as a 2-mi-/3-km-long "culture walk," the Alameda (technically a
boulevard) runs through the heart of Santiago and is flanked by gorgeous gardens, statuary, impressive
old buildings, Victorian monuments and green spaces throughout.
Vitacura
Increasingly viewed as the newest and most chic of Santiago's neighborhoods, Vitacura is a good choice
for food and drink, with a sushi scene and outstanding venues such as the restaurant Zanzibar. Fashion
boutiques and independent art galleries line Alonso de Cordova, and as the neighborhood approaches
Las Condes, upscale residential properties take over.
Parks & Gardens
Parque Forestal
Just north of Plaza Italia
Santiago, Chile
A riverside park that offers pleasant summer shade and long, cool walkways between lanes of high-speed
commuter traffic. A favorite spot for romantic couples and home to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes,
it's much tidier than in the past.
Daily 24 hours. Free.
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Parque Metropolitano and Cerro San Cristobal Bellavista Santiago, Chile Phone: 730-1300 http://www.parquemet.cl
Extending northeast from Bellavista, this 1,785-acre/722-hectare park is the city's largest and most
frequented, drawing Chileans and tourists alike. The main attraction is the 115-ft/25-m Statue of the
Virgin, which gazes out from atop Cerro San Cristobal. You can reach the top by either taxi or funicular
from Bellavista's Plaza Caupolican, or by the aerial tramway that traverses the park from Providencia, or
you can walk if you're up for it. Even if you have no interest in religious statuary, the hilltop affords a
panoramic view of the city and the Andes on clear days. The parkland surrounding Cerro San Cristobal is
also worth visiting. You'll find gardens, promenades, walking trails, pools, the national zoo, and a number
of restaurants and cafes. The pools located at the peak of the hill, Antilen and Tupahue, are a diversion
for both adults and children—swimmers feel like they are floating along the edge of the world.
Park hours daily 8:30 am-11 pm. Pool hours daily except Tuesday 10 am-7 pm. Admission to the park is
free for pedestrians, Ch$3,000 for cars Monday-Friday, Ch$4,000 for cars Saturday and Sunday. Zoo
admission is Ch$3,000 adults, Ch$1,500 children. Pool admission is Ch$7,500 adults, Ch$4,000 children
at Antilen; Ch$6,000 adults, Ch$3,500 children at Tupahue. Tramway is Ch$1,800 round-trip for adults
and Ch$1,100 for children, Ch$700 if getting off at the Zoo.
Parque Quinta Normal
Avenida Portales (at Matucana)
Santiago, Chile
Located next to the University of Santiago, Quinta Normal is a large urban park dating from 1841, when
its lands were purchased by the government for use in horticultural research. Eventually, the park was
converted into the country's first botanical garden, and it became a gathering spot for the country's
European-influenced nouveau riche. Today, the shady, pleasant park is much more egalitarian—on
weekends and holidays, it fills up with picnicking families, soccer players and lovers of all ages. However,
it retains its original beauty and is often cited as one of the loveliest parks in all of Latin America. It has its
own Metro station. Attractions include an artificial lagoon with boats for rent, tennis courts and a number
of museums, including the Natural History Museum.
Daily except Monday 8 am-8:30 pm.
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Wineries, Breweries & Distilleries
Cousino Macul Quilin 7100, Penalolen Santiago, Chile Phone: 351-4100 http://www.cousinomacul.cl This winery's beautiful limestone and brick wine cellar was designed by French architects in 1872 and
was considered an architectural marvel.
Guided tours in English and Spanish Monday-Friday at 11 am, noon, and 3 and 4 pm. Saturday tours at
11 am and noon. Ch$8,000 with tasting of two wines, souvenir glass included.
Undurraga Camino a Melipilla Km 34 (45 minutes southwest of Santiago) Talagante, Chile Phone: 372-2850 http://www.undurraga.cl Guided tours and tastings Monday-Friday at 10:15 am, noon, and 2:30 and 4 pm, Saturday and Sunday
at 10:15 am and noon, with reservations.
Ch$8,000 includes three reserve wine tastings and a souvenir glass.
Vina Concha y Toro Virginia Subercaseaux 210 Pirque, Chile Phone: 476-5269 http://www.conchaytoro.com Chile's largest and most famous vineyard is just 45 minutes south of Santiago, depending on traffic. The
place is so gorgeous that tourists come from Japan and New Zealand just to see this one winery. Tours
are offered in English and Spanish.
Hours are 10 am-5:10 pm daily except Monday and holidays; ask for availability of English-language
tours. There is a separate wine bar, open daily 9:30 am-6:45 pm. Ch$8,000 per person includes a tasting
of its famous cabernet sauvignon.
Vina Santa Rita Camino Padre Hurtado 695, Alto Jahuel (28 mi/45 km south of Santiago) Buin, Chile Phone: 362-2520 or 362-2590 http://www.santarita.com This lesser-known but high-quality vineyard has its own restaurant, a hotel, and excellent tours in English
and Spanish, including two premium wines and a souvenir glass. Tours must be reserved two days in
advance.
Admission ranges Ch$9,600-$30,000, but it's free if you eat in the restaurant (minimum consumption per
person Ch$12,500).
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Recreation
Given its easy access to the Andes and the ocean, Santiago offers almost unlimited recreational
possibilities. However, during April-October, Chile's coldest months, be warned that the smog can
occasionally make physical activity unhealthy in Santiago. (For example, outdoor gym classes for
elementary schools are often canceled because of air-pollution alerts.) But when the smog subsides, the
city has extraordinary access to outdoor recreation.
Biking is a great pleasure along the banks of the Mapocho River or in Cerro San Cristobal. Local
authorities are also slowly building several bike lanes along city streets. But when biking in the city
outside of park areas, as in any big city with more than 5 million residents, one needs to be cautious.
Traffic can get heavy. If you avoid main roads, riding is less stressful. And no matter where you venture,
always ride defensively. Most Chileans respect the pedestrian right of way, but, in a city of this size, there
are plenty who don't—most notably bus drivers. There are also occasional potholes, and sidewalks don't
always connect.
Indoor health clubs are booming—most hotels now have on-site facilities. For visitors staying more than
several weeks, temporary gym memberships are readily available and inexpensive. With Chile's
increasing success in the world of tennis, new and improved tennis facilities are cropping up around the
city. Head to the nearest park, and you're likely to find a game of soccer or basketball to join. In winter,
world-class skiing is within an hour's drive.
Nearby Cajon del Maipo (93 mi/150 km southeast of Santiago) and other outlying areas provide
numerous outdoor opportunities, from rafting and kayaking to hiking to climbing. The coast is just two
hours away from Santiago; for surfing, try the beach at Pichelemu, though it's more distant.
Nightlife
In the years since Chile's return to democracy, Santiago's nightlife has taken off. Many discos and dance
clubs don't get started until 1 am or so. Friday and Saturday are the biggest nights, but Thursday can be
pretty busy, too. The most lively areas are Barrio Bellavista, which has strong alternative-rock venues and
a gay scene on its Recoleta side and Barrio Brasil, but the Suecia strip in Providencia has declined in its
appeal.
Dancing is very popular, with salsa and techno music generally providing the beat. Major weekly dance
parties are publicized by street posters plastered around town. Although Santiago is not particularly
dangerous, a common scam among cabdrivers is to pick up foreigners in the early morning hours and
charge outrageous fares—watch the meter closely or call a trusted radio taxi. Practically no fare in central
Santiago should cost more than Ch$3,000. Do not pay any fare that is higher without checking with a
local.
Most Chileans enjoy their local wines and favor a grape brandy cocktail known as the pisco sour, the
national cocktail. Beer, though, is the drink of choice among younger Santiaguinos, while the older,
sophisticated set gravitates toward martinis.
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Shopping
Santiago may lack the flair of Buenos Aires in terms of contemporary design and fashion, but certain
items, such as lapis lazuli jewelry and crafts from the countryside, are worth seeking out. The best place
to get an idea of what's available is the underground crafts display at the Centro Cultural Palacio La
Moneda, immediately behind the presidential palace.
Shopping Hours: General hours are Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm, but many stores (outside of shopping
malls) close on Saturday afternoon. Monday hours vary considerably. Most malls are open daily 10 am-
10 pm and sometimes later, especially around Christmastime. Many shops are closed in February. Shops
in Santiago rarely observe the siesta.
Markets
Mercado Central
San Pablo 967
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 696-8327
http://www.mercadocentral.cl
A soaring wrought-iron structure that was partly prefabricated in England and erected in Santiago in the
1870s, the market is packed with fish and shellfish, fruit and vegetable stands, and many seafood
restaurants. Be aware that the produce there tends to be more expensive than at other markets, though
it is of generally good quality.
Mercado La Vega
Santiago's main wholesale vegetable market is the best place to buy the produce for which Chile is
famous. Vendors sell gorgeous vegetables and exotic fruits such as the warty green chirimoya and the
purple- and yellow-striped cucumber fruit. The Vega is part of Chile's nitty-gritty daily life, unlike its
somewhat sanitized cousin, the Mercado Central. From the Cal y Canto subway stop, cross the Mapocho
River. One block north of the river, you will begin to hear the bustle of the Vega.
Opens daily around dawn and closes in the late afternoon, between 4 and 6 pm.
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Shopping Areas
Parque Arauco Presidente Kennedy 5413, Vitacura Santiago, Chile Phone: 299-0629 http://www.parquearauco.cl A huge indoor mall with hundreds of stores, a movie theater, a food court, a bowling alley and more.
Don't expect bargains, as nearly everything is imported. A park and a pool attached to the back of the
mall make it a nice place to take children.
Daily 11 am-9 pm.
Patio Bellavista Constitucion 30-70, Bellavista (there is also an entrance on Pio Nono) Santiago, Chile Phone: 249-8700 http://www.patiobellavista.cl This outdoor shopping area at the gateway to the Bellavista neighborhood is considered one of
Santiago's best places to shop (especially for imported items), eat and hang out. There are more than 80
restaurants, bars, artisan and specialty shops of all kinds, wine shops, art galleries, a dance academy and
even a hotel. Also occasional free music, theater and other entertainment.
Pueblito los Dominicos Apoquindo 9085, Las Condes Santiago, Chile Phone: 220-8741 http://www.pueblitolosdominicos.com At the eastern end of Avenida Apoquindo, this compound of 180 artisan studios and shops nestled
against the foothills of the Andes is popular with both Chilean and foreign visitors. Originally grabbed by
conqueror Pedro de Valdivia from the Mapuche, then left to the Dominican order by a subsequent
owner, the property includes a colonial church—now a national monument. In the craft fair, a shady
maze of tall trees and wooden booths, you can find goods from throughout Chile: lapis lazuli jewelry and
amateurish paintings but also some original artwork by Chilean woodworkers and weavers. There are
also good places to eat. Linea 1 of the Metro now has its terminal station there.
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Specialty Stores
Aji Lastarria 316, Barrio Bellas Artes Santiago, Chile Phone: 639-9928 http://www.aji-chile.com Jewelry, clothing and other items made by three noted Chilean artisans. The trendy designs are
considered some of the more fashionable in the city. Jewelry includes designs utilizing lapis lazuli,
copper, ceramics and various Chilean stones.
Open Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-9 pm.
Artesania Pura Isidora Goyenechea 2966, Las Condes Santiago, Chile Phone: 333-3144 http://www.purartesanos.cl Handicrafts with a fashion sense, with products from around the country, including wool sweaters,
basketry, organic bathing and personal goods, and much more.
Open Monday-Friday 10 am-9 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-9 pm.
Artesanias de Chile Bellavista 0357, Providencia Santiago, Chile Phone: 777-8643 http://www.artesaniasdechile.cl Local and regional crafts.
Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm.
Club de Amantes del Vino Alto Las Condes, Kennedy 9001, Local 3253, Las Condes Santiago, Chile Phone: 213-1248 http://www.lacav.cl A combination wine bar and store, it also offers wine-appreciation classes and tastings, and it can help
arrange tours of wineries.
Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm, Sunday 11 am-10 pm.
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Dining
Dining Overview
Santiago's dining scene was formerly seriously underrated, but is now receiving the recognition it
deserves, especially in regards to its seafood and nouvelle cuisine. The city's history of immigration and
its sustained economic growth have given rise to a worldly and varied group of restaurants. At the same
time, Santiago's middle and upper classes are now more traveled and demand places to eat that meet
their sophisticated palates. This, mixed with the rooted influence of traditional Chilean cuisine, creates a
unique urban dining experience in which options abound.
Chileans are late-night eaters, so most restaurants open their doors for supper around 8 pm. Although
there are excellent restaurants all over the city, a first-time visitor's best bet is to visit one of the capital's
restaurant districts. A good first choice is Bellavista, the city's original bohemian neighborhood. Another is
Barrio Brasil, though its best offerings are more scattered. Santiago also has two restaurant malls. Paseo
San Damian, located in Las Condes, has three restaurants and one bar. The second, and far more
sophisticated, is called Borderio, located in Vitacura. It houses 10 high-end restaurants offering cuisines
from all over the world.
Many foreigners tend to put all Latin American cuisine in the same category, but don't expect Chilean
food to be as hot and spicy as Mexican food. In fact, some may find Chilean cooking rather bland. Table
sauce such as aji is a cure for this, as it is made from spicy chili peppers. Many Santiago restaurants
have begun to specialize in rural Chilean and Creole dishes, which involve relatively little meat except
chicken, and an abundance of fresh fruits and vegetables. These dishes include humitas (boiled corn
paste wrapped in corn husk, similar to Mexican tamales), pastel de choclo (corn and beef or chicken
casserole), charquican (vegetables and dried beef), budin de acelga (leafy greens in a cheese casserole),
porotos granados (thick soup made from fresh shelled beans and pumpkin), porotos con riendas (beans
cooked with spaghetti), pollo arvejado (chicken cooked in juices and peas) and cazuela (chicken or beef
soup with vegetables).
You're never far from Chile's 2,600-mi/4,200-km coastline, so expect to find fresh seafood almost
everywhere. Clams, mussels, oysters and sea urchins are usually served as a first course. Exquisite main
dishes include seviche (fish and/or shellfish cooked in lemon juice), mariscal (raw or cooked fish and
seafood stew), machas a la parmesana (razor clams with Parmesan sauce), congrio con salsa margarita
(conger eel with seafood sauce), paila marina (fish and shellfish stew) and chupe de locos (abalone
casserole). Because of toxic red-tide conditions, though, eating raw shellfish is inadvisable.
Expect to pay within these guidelines, based on a dinner for one, excluding drinks, tax and tip: $ = less
than Ch$8,000; $$ = Ch$8,000-$12,000; $$$ = Ch$12,001-$15,000; $$$$ = more than Ch$15,000.
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Local & Regional
El Caramano
Purisima 257, Bellavista
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 737-7043
http://caramano.tripod.com
Known for its fun and warm atmosphere, El Caramano's walls are covered in graffiti (and you can scribble
your own), and on weekends musicians serenade you at your table with Latin love songs. Best of all, the
traditional Chilean-style food features an assortment of beef and fish dishes. Try corvina trauco (sea
bass), which arrives smoking hot covered with aluminum foil. For an appetizer, order the sopaipillas (fried
bread).
Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
El Hoyo
San Vicente 375, Estacion Central
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 689-0339
http://www.elhoyo.cl
This is a picada, meaning an informal, typically Chilean and also relatively inexpensive restaurant. Diners
can try sandwiches such as pernil (ham) and arrollado (pressed cuts of pork spiced with paprika) and
drinks such as vino pipeno (young wine). The house specialties include terremoto (wine with pineapple
ice cream) and costillar al horno (baked ribs). To evoke the atmosphere of rural Chile, guests sit on old
wine barrels (which are also used to support the tables), and various equestrian accessories hang on the
walls. The bar scene is lowbrow but charming.
Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. No credit cards.
Galindo
Dardignac 098, Providencia
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 777-0116
http://www.galindo.cl
Barrio Bellavista may have morphed from bohemian to bourgeois, but no-frills Galindo is a survivor, a
reminder of what the neighborhood used to be. Its clients, many of them from the arts community, chat at
sidewalk tables, but they eschew the sophistication and elaborate decor of other nearby restaurants to
enjoy simple sandwiches and basic Chilean dishes such as pastel de choclo and porotos, along with draft
beer and red wine.
Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Most major credit cards.
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Los Buenos Muchachos
Ricardo Cumming 1031, Centro
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 566-4660
http://www.losbuenosmuchachos.cl
Not so much a restaurant as an experience, Los Buenos Muchachos has been serving parrillada (Chilean
tabletop barbecue) as well as pork, fish and seafood for more than 60 years to the accompaniment of
arguably stereotypical folk music and dance. Some call it hilarious, others rich in culture, and still others a
great place for loads of good, inexpensive food; in fact, it defies categorization. There is a second location
at Ruta 5 Sur, Km. 35 in Buin.
Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required Friday and Saturday. $. Most major credit cards.
Puerto Fuy
Nueva Costanera 3969, Vitacura
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 208-8908
http://www.puertofuy.cl
It's easy to see why this is a hot spot in Santiago's culinary scene. The menu changes daily with
imaginative, tasty dishes made from Chilean seafood and beef.
Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Cuisines
Italian
Da Noi Trattoria Ristorante
Italia 1791, Nunoa
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 274-2001
http://www.danoi.cl
A small, comfortable restaurant with many excellent dishes, especially the signature gnocchi and ravioli.
Finish your evening with budin de manjar (caramel pudding).
Daily for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
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La Pizza Nostra
Providencia 1975
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 231-8941
http://www.lapizzanostra.cl
Conveniently located in the middle of the shopping district of Providencia, the food at this long-time
institution never disappoints. Typical Italian pastas, fish and good-quality pizza. Order a bottle of red wine
from the ample wine list.
Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
San Fruttuoso
Mallinkrodt 180, Bellavista
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 415-2762
http://www.sanfruttuoso.cl
One of the oldest and best Bellavista restaurants, this Italian food is worth the pesos. Modern versions of
old-style plates from northern Italy. The restaurant offers generous portions of pasta, exceptional fish and
seafood, and much more, with some ingredients imported straight from the old continent.
Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$.
Most major credit cards.
Seafood
Donde Augusto
Mercado Central (corner of Paseo Ahumada and Ismael Valdes Vergara)
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 671-4558
http://www.dondeaugusto.cl
This is one of several nearly interchangeable seafood venues in the riverside Mercado Central, but it has
the best vantage point for viewing the entire place. After walking through the fish market itself, enter the
splendid interior of the building, a wrought-iron structure designed by architect Fermin Vivaceta. The
sunlight pouring in through the metallic figures on the roof, plus the frenzied activity of a central market,
make this a special place to eat a meal. Try any of the fish dishes, such as corvina (sea bass) or congrio
(conger eel).
Daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
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Ibis de Puerto Varas
Borde Rio, Monsenor Escriva de Balaguer 6400, Local 4, Vitacura
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 218-0111
http://www.ibisdepuertovaras.cl
Tucked away in the posh Vitacura neighborhood, the Borde Rio is Santiago's most important food court,
bar none. This trendy, two-story complex houses diverse and numerous restaurants, and Ibis de Puerto
Varas is without doubt the one that you should visit. There you'll find Chilean seafood served up in grand
style, from atun de isla de pascua (Easter Island tuna) to the country's best fish dishes bathed in assorted
sauces.
Daily for lunch and dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Infante 51
Jose Manuel Infante 51, Providencia
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 264-3357 or 236-6771
http://www.infante51.cl
If you want to try the best food Chile has to offer, then it must begin with the seafood gathered along the
country's long Pacific coastline. And none do better at preparing Chile's natural advantages than Xavier
Zabala, part-owner and chef of Infante 51. Zabala—probably Chile's best-known chef—has gathered well-
deserved fame for the taste and extensive offering of his fish and other seafood plates, some of which
you will find nowhere else. Also some fine beef and pasta dishes. The atmosphere is elegant and
pleasant.
Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$.
Most major credit cards.
Puerto Peru
Condell 1298
Santiago, Chile
Phone: 363-9886
http://www.puertoperu.cl
From modest beginnings, Puerto Peru has become one of Santiago's top fish and seafood choices
(including seafood-based pastas), with spicier options than most Chilean palates usually prefer. There's a
smaller selection of meat-based Peruvian dishes such as lomo saltado (stir-fried beef strips and
vegetables).
Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations advisable on weekends. $$-$$$. Most major credit
cards.
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Steak Houses
Las Vacas Gordas
Cienfuegos 280
Santiago, Chile
You might find better beef, and you might find cheaper beef, but you won't find better and cheaper beef
than at this casual restaurant that's helped make booming Barrio Brasil one of the city's top diners'
destinations. It's almost always crowded, but the kitchen and service are both efficient.
Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
Security
Etiquette
Chile has become known as the South American nation most open to doing business with foreign
companies. The customs and procedures are similar to other countries, though often formal even if
slightly more accommodating to outsiders.
Appointments—For high-level initial meetings, it's a good idea to use a third party from Chile to arrange
meetings and make introductions. Consultants can be hired to fill this role, and bank personnel
sometimes serve as intermediaries. A meeting will typically be scheduled well in advance. In social
situations, Chileans can be casual about the clock, but in business, punctuality is expected of guests and
is far more important.
Personal Introductions—Use a firm handshake with direct eye contact. Last names with the appropriate
Spanish title are used. If your acquaintance has a professional title, you will learn it when introduced; if
not, senor (male), senora (married female) and senorita (unmarried female) are appropriate. The title and
the person's last name should be used until you are instructed otherwise.
Note that it is typical for a person to have two surnames, one from the father and one from the mother.
The father's surname is given first during the introduction, and it is also the name that is used to address
or speak of the person. Thus, "Senor Mario Sanchez Benitez" would be addressed as "Senor Sanchez."
Maternal names are not used in professional circles, although they invariably appear on business cards.
Also, a common practice in Chile used to emphasize formal respect for older people is to sometimes use
"Don" or "Dona" before the person's name. For example, when referring to Mario Sanchez you might say
"Don Mario."
Negotiating—Discussion of nonbusiness matters usually takes up a fair amount of time at the outset of
meetings, although this habit is fading as Chile becomes more attuned to U.S. business practices. The
topic of business is introduced more quickly than in some other Latin American countries, but the pace is
definitively slower than in Europe or in North America. Success can hinge on building a rapport with your
Chilean colleagues, which usually takes some time.
Business Entertaining—Meals and other forms of entertainment tend to emphasize relationship-building
rather than direct business discussions. They usually take place at restaurants and hotels.
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Body Language—Personal body space is close. Resist the urge to back away. It is common for
participants in a conversation to politely touch each other on the arm or back. Take your cue from your
acquaintance.
Gift Giving—The giving of presents is not a major part of doing business in Chile. It is more common
after the relationship is well-established. Flowers are appropriate when visiting a home and can be sent in
advance of your arrival.
Conversation—A sense of humor is appreciated, but remember that unless you are fluent in Spanish,
attempts at humor may not translate well. Avoid talking politics unless you know your contact and their
opinions well. Use particular care regarding the events of 1973, when Gen. Augusto Pinochet overthrew
constitutional president Salvador Allende and instituted a 17-year dictatorship.
Other Information—Machismo is certainly present in Chile, though decidedly less emphatic than in some
other Latin American countries (after all, Chile recently had a female president). Women can and do
conduct business in the country, though they may on occasion encounter some gender-based resistance.
Personal Safety
Santiago is generally a safe city, especially in most areas frequented by tourists, though some
Santiaguinos believe violent crime has risen in the past decade. But compared with other countries in the
region, violent crime is minimal. Nevertheless, visitors should take common sense precautions. These
include carrying money close to the body (and hidden, if possible), not wearing conspicuously valuable
jewelry, not walking alone at night and avoiding poorly lit side streets at night. Taxis are a good option.
The majority of crimes committed against tourists are pickpocketing and simple assault. Firearms assaults
are unusual.
The riskiest neighborhoods are usually the ones that empty out once the sun goes down; otherwise,
areas with dense pedestrian traffic such as the downtown pedestrian malls and main downtown streets
such as Alameda Ahumada, Huerfanos and Augustinas, are attractive to pickpockets. Be aware of your
surroundings, and try to act as if you know where you're going. Thieves sometimes also target the train
and bus stations, and the Metro, because of the volume of tourists who pass through, so keep a close
watch on your bags at all times. Providencia, Las Condes and Vitacura are safer at night, but there have
been occasional robberies late at night in the vicinity of bars and restaurants. Steer clear of the
poblaciones on the outskirts of the city, especially Pudahuel and Conchali, although neither attracts
visitors anyway.
Chilean drivers can be reckless but generally (except for bus drivers) defer to pedestrians. The Alameda,
however, can be dangerous.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
Visitors are not required to have any special vaccinations. Although sanitation is generally good and tap
water is safe to drink, a few special considerations should be taken when eating. Avoid raw seafood
(except for fish in seviche) and make sure fruits and vegetables are thoroughly washed and disinfected.
Cholera only rarely makes an appearance in rural Chile, but there's no need to take chances.
Santiago's increasing smog is another health consideration, as suspended particles in the air (the biggest
component of pollution in Santiago) can cause or aggravate respiratory illnesses during the fall and winter
24 | P a g e
months. Still, few tourists actually experience problems. Santiago's mild climate can tempt winter-worn
northerners to strip down and soak up the rays. Be careful in doing so, as Chile in general has less
protection from ozone because of its relative proximity to the Antarctic ozone hole, making the sun's
ultraviolet rays deceptively ferocious. Be sure to apply sunblock, and consider wearing a hat and UV-
rated sunglasses.
Increasing numbers of Santiago doctors speak English, and emergency services are reasonably priced.
Probably the best place to seek medical treatment is the Clinica Alemana (the German Clinic, phone 210-
1111). It has a reputation for having good doctors and services, and many private insurance policies can
cover emergency treatments there.
Travelers needing medications will find that pharmacies are located throughout Santiago and are usually
well-marked with the word farmacia. Prices are comparable with those in the U.S. and Europe, and many
visitors are pleased to find that medicines requiring prescriptions in other countries are sold over the
counter (check expiration dates, however). Many pharmacies are open until 10 pm, and a rotating
schedule for 24-hour pharmacies is published in local newspapers and can be found at the desks of many
major hotels.
Farmacias Ahumada is one recommended chain, but there are several other reliable ones. Be aware,
though, that all Chilean pharmacies have the merchandise behind counters and a convoluted buying
process: Select the product; take a receipt to the cashier; take a new receipt to the packing station; and,
finally, pick up your tightly wrapped medicine. The protocol can be confusing to visitors. Farmacias
Salcobrand (phone 600-360-6000) has a delivery service until midnight Monday-Friday, till 10 pm
Saturday and Sunday. Few pharmacy workers speak English.
For the latest health information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Disabled Advisory
Santiago's streets are not accommodating to disabled people, at least in the older parts of town. The high
curbs, crumbling pavement, lack of ramps outside buildings and on sidewalk corners, and almost
nonexistent wheelchair elevators make it difficult for a disabled person to get around in the city. However,
newer buildings and even Metro stations are incorporating wheelchair access ramps and other
handicapped-accessible infrastructure, and ramps at intersections are becoming more common.
Transportation services for the disabled are provided by Servicio Tixi. Toll-free 800-372-300. Ciudad
Accessible maintains a database for disabled travelers. http://www.ciudadaccesible.cl.
Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Don't use the word mozo to call a waiter—in neighboring Argentina it's innocuous, but in Chile it's
insulting. Instead use garzon or mesero.
Do consider carrying home a bottle of pisco, instead of or in addition to Chilean wines (quality pisco is
much harder to find overseas).
Don't even think about bribing the Carabineros, Chile's uniformed police, at a traffic stop. Unlike many
Latin American police forces, they have a world-famous (and justly deserved) reputation for
professionalism, and you might find your car impounded and yourself in jail. On the other hand, don't
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hesitate to ask Carabineros for information or directions. Although they may act formal, they are also
exceptionally polite and helpful.
Don't make a right turn on a red light unless a traffic sign specifically permits it.
Do use public transportation, especially the Metro, to get around town. Though crowded in the morning
and afternoon rush hours, the Metro is fast, clean, cheap and goes almost everywhere (at least until
10:30 pm, when it closes). It is also quite safe at all hours.
Don't eat pizza, French fries or sandwiches with your hands; Chileans use forks and knives.
Don't eat anything more than a piece of fruit when walking down a street. Wolfing down a sandwich or
pastry on a crowded boulevard or corner is considered the height of rudeness.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Citizens of Australia, Canada, Mexico and the U.S. need passports but
not visas. They also must pay an entrance fee of Ch$34,400-$69,130 depending on nationality.
All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean,
Central and South America and Mexico. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior
to departure.
Population: 5,279,190.
Languages: Spanish.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic).
Time Zone: 4 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-4 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the
third Sunday of August to the first Sunday of May.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts. Three-pin sockets are the norm, so most North American devices
require adapters though not necessarily transformers.
Telephone Codes: 56, country code; 2,city code;
Money
Currency Exchange
The Chilean peso is one of South America's strongest currencies. Because of Chile's continuing high
economic growth rates, the peso has remained strong against the U.S. dollar and other foreign
currencies.
The best way to change money is to use the ubiquitous ATMs, and credit cards are widely accepted for
services and other purchases. For cash or traveler's checks, though, use one of the many casas de
cambio (money-exchange bureaus). There is no black market in Chile for U.S. dollars, and rates vary only
slightly from place to place. In particular, the area just west of Plaza Constitucion, along Calle Agustinas,
is lined with money exchanges. If you can wait, don't exchange money in the airport—you will get a
slightly better exchange rate in the city. Hotels may offer to change money, but the rates are better at
banks.
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Practically every bank branch has ATMs that accept Visa or MasterCard. In fact, a great many
pharmacies, service stations and other stores have ATMs, making them easier to find than in many U.S.
and European cities. Only BancoEstado, though, refrains from imposing a service charge of Ch$2,000-
$3,500 per transaction.
Taxes
The national sales tax is 19%. Many hotels include sales tax in the overall price per room. However, Chile
does have a law that exempts foreigners from paying this tax at hotels if they pay with U.S. dollars or an
international credit card. If a hotel attempts to do to the contrary (which is not likely), remind them of this
fact.
Tipping
The common tip in restaurants is 10%. Servers do not expect more, and Chileans sometimes leave less
or none at all. It is also customary to tip supermarket baggers, parking attendants, baggage handlers at
airports, bellhops at hotels and people who deliver food. A tip of this sort probably should not exceed
Ch$300, unless the service has been extensive or extraordinary. Even though taxis may seem
inexpensive, they are relatively expensive for Chileans, and therefore tipping is unnecessary.
Be aware that postal workers charge a small fee for letters delivered: This is a fee for services—it's how
they make their living. Tipping messengers, though, is uncommon.
Weather
Chile is a mostly midlatitude country whose seasons are the reverse of those in the Northern
Hemisphere. In general, Santiago's mild Mediterranean climate resembles that of California, with a long
dry spring and summer (September or October-April) and a wetter winter (May-September). Annual
rainfall averages around 14 in/36 cm. Temperatures rarely fall below freezing in winter, and snow is
uncommon (except, of course, in the nearby Andes). Summers may reach 95 F/36 C, but the city's high
altitude (about 2,000 ft/600 m above sea level) means it almost always cools off at night. The best times
to visit Santiago are spring (September-December) and autumn (March-April).
During winter, low clouds combined with light winds and rainfall can lead to a severe pollution problem—
of particular concern to people with respiratory conditions.
What to Wear
Take along a variety of clothing—because of Santiago's altitude, temperatures fluctuate significantly
between day and night year-round. Leisure travelers should pack shorts, pants, and short- and long-
sleeved shirts. If you're traveling in summer, a light jacket or sweater is recommended because evenings
still get cool. In the winter, heavy wool sweaters or down jackets help keep out the chill, but even then it
can warm up in the daytime; it sometimes rains a lot in winter, so take a raincoat. In spring, mornings are
generally cool, afternoons hot and evenings cool once again.
Because Santiago is situated relatively close to a major hole in the ozone layer that has been forming
over Antarctica, visitors are advised to take proper precautions against ultraviolet rays, such as wearing
UV sunglasses, a hat or visor, and sunscreen with a high SPF that includes zinc or titanium oxide.
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Dark suits with ties are a must for business travelers, especially in winter months. In summer, a jacket
and tie are the norm, but business travelers are certainly not expected to wear heavy wool suits in the
sweltering heat. In this case, tweed or linen jackets and lightweight slacks are perfectly acceptable.
Chileans, whether in business situations or social settings, are very image-conscious. In business
meetings, men should always wear ties, a watch and have polished shoes. Take your hat off when you sit
down to talk or eat. In general, Chileans frown upon people who dress slovenly and don't pay careful
attention to all aspects of personal hygiene. When going out to bars or restaurants at night, dress may be
less formal, depending on the venue.
Communication
Telephone
Public pay phones are readily available throughout Santiago. A local call costs Ch$100. Older models still
take coins, but depending on the company that built the phone (Chile's phone service is privatized), it may
require a phone card, which you can usually purchase at the nearest corner kiosk or pharmacy. Visitors
can also purchase phone cards with fixed values up to Ch$5,000 and make calls from any landline—the
cost of each call is deducted as it's made. It's also possible to call from any of the abundant centros de
llamados (call centers), which often have fax and Internet service, as well.
Phones in Santiago and vicinity use the area code 02 and have seven digits; cell phones throughout the
country use 09 and have eight digits; when calling another cell phone, it is not necessary to dial the prefix.
In the provinces, area codes have a zero and two or three additional digits, and all regular numbers have
six digits. Toll-free numbers begin with 800, and numbers beginning with 600 are local calls from
anywhere in the country.
Cell phone rentals are readily available, and inexpensive prepaid cell phones are available for purchase;
some are so cheap that, with the initial credit, they're literally paying you to accept the phone. SIM Cards
are available for purchase from the main carriers, Entel, Claro and Movistar, but also require purchasing
prepaid credit for calls. Coverage is sometimes spotty in rural areas, but in general, it is excellent.
Internet Access
Internet cafes are taking root in Santiago, especially in neighborhoods frequented by young people—near
the universities and around downtown. In general, expect to pay Ch$500-$750 per hour for connection
time. Some Internet cafes will allow customers to plug in their own laptops.
Many accommodations, even backpacker hostels, have Wi-Fi—so do many cafes and Metro stations, and
some neighborhoods as well. Top-end hotels, though, often charge for the privilege.
In the Santiago airport, free Wi-Fi connection is only available in VIP airline lounges, but several cafes
offer connections to their patrons.
Newspapers & Magazines
Santiago has eight daily newspapers, all in Spanish. Most Santiaguinos read the conservative morning
papers El Mercurio or La Tercera. On Friday, both include an extended section focused on entertainment,
dining and nightlife in the city. La Segunda is a daily newspaper published in the afternoons. For daily
business news in Spanish, try Diario Financiero or Estrategia.
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One of the most widely read magazines is the satirical bimonthly The Clinic, which got its start and took
its name from the suburban London clinic where Gen. Pinochet was arrested. Another good source for
independent perspectives on Chile is El Periodista.
Most international hotels have a good selection of English-language newspapers in the lobby, often for
free. A condensed six-page version of The New York Times can be found at many hotels. The online
Santiago Times is a daily English-language digest of Santiago's Spanish-language press, but there is no
print daily in English (http://www.santiagotimes.cl).
Transportation
Santiago's public transportation system is extensive and modern. The rapidly expanding Metro will take
you almost anywhere quickly, and most sights in Centro, Barrio Brasil, Providencia and Las Condes lie
along a single east-west line. Transantiago, an integrated bus system, replaced the previous chaotic
collection of private bus routes. The bus system has had its share of woe, with user complaints about
lower frequency and less coverage, but matters have improved greatly.
Taxis are generally handy and inexpensive. Renting a car is possible, although more expensive than in
most Latin American countries, but learning the routes on a short visit is difficult and parking almost
equally so. There are many new underground parking structures in the city, however.
If you are determined to or must rent a vehicle, you must be at least 22 years old, hold a valid
international driver's license before traveling to Chile (you cannot procure one there), and hold a valid
driver's license for your own country. You must leave a blank voucher of an international credit card with
sufficient funds on it (and in any case with a minimum of US$1,000) as a security deposit with the car
rental company. Finally, the credit card has to be in the name of the individual who rents the vehicle.
Traveling to other parts of Chile and other parts of South America is generally done by air and bus, since
the rail system services only a few parts of the country. Luckily, there numerous private bus operators,
and the buses themselves are clean and comfortable, sometimes luxurious. Some even have on-board
Wi-Fi.
Public Transportation
Santiago has both bus and subway systems. Bus travel tends to be chaotic and, during rush hours,
extraordinarily crowded, but the Transantiago reform (http://www.transantiago.cl) replaced aging diesel-
spewing buses with newer, cleaner and more comfortable buses, many of them articulated. To figure out
where a bus is headed, check the digital readout above the windshield; the Transantiago Web site also
has a trip-planning function.
Under the Transantiago system, passengers must purchase bus-ticket cards, called BIP, available at
Metro stations and many other locations. BIP cards are used instead of coins. The BIP card can also be
used for the Metro. Travelers unfamiliar with Santiago's layout might want to wait until they know the city
a little better before getting on a bus—many routes begin or end in dubious neighborhoods on the city's
outskirts, so knowing when to get off is important. On the other hand, the bus is an inexpensive way to
see much of the city, and onboard crime (save the occasional pickpocketing) is rare. The best times to
use the bus system are around 10 am-1 pm, when most of the city's residents are at work. Peak rush
hours are 8-9 am and 7-9 pm, making bus travel then crowded and slow.
The Santiago Metro system is clean, quick, efficient and easy to use, even for newcomers. There are five
lines, but the most useful for visitors is probably Linea 1 (Line 1), which crosses the city roughly east to
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west. Stations are marked by signs with three red diamonds. Fares range Ch$510-$620 depending on the
time of day and are paid with either a rechargeable BIP card or a small individual ticket that you can buy
inside the Metro station and then slide into the turnstile. No ticket is necessary to exit the system.
Taxi
Taxis in Santiago, which are painted black with yellow tops, are relatively inexpensive and are the safest
way to travel (aboveground, anyway). Cabdrivers do not generally speak English, although they can
sometimes understand basic English words. But don't underestimate the conversations they can afford:
They are sometimes professionals who have gone behind the wheel because of economic difficulties, and
they can be valuable and interesting sources of information about the Chilean way of life, as well as
excellent sources of information for what's happening around town. When taking a taxi during the day, it is
perfectly fine to hail one on the street or go to a designated taxi stand, but at night it is preferable to call a
radio taxi.
Some drivers may take roundabout routes to run up the meter, especially if it is obvious the passenger
does not know his or her way around. If possible, try to give them instructions, not only about the final
destination, but also about the route to take. Passengers will save time by paying with exact change or
small bills, as drivers tend to keep as little cash in the cab as possible. Tipping is uncommon and
unnecessary.
For More Information
Recommended Guidebooks
Moon Handbooks Chile by Wayne Bernhardson (Avalon Travel Publishing).
How to Survive in the Chilean Jungle: An English Lexicon of Chilean Slang and Spanish Sayings by John
C. Saez (editor), John Brennan and Alvaro Taboada.
Additional Reading
Distant Star by Roberto Bolano (New Directions Publishing Corporation).
My Invented Country by Isabel Allende (HarperCollins, 2003). Observations on her home country by the
once-exiled Chilean novelist.
The Movies of My Life: A Novel by Alberto Fuguet (Harper Perennial).
Pinochet and Me: A Chilean Anti-Memoir by Marc Cooper (Verso).
Travels in a Thin Country: A Journey Through Chile by Sarah Wheeler (Modern Library).
Tourist Offices
Sernatur
Sernatur has ample printed information in English, and satellite offices in every regional capital and some
other cities. Ave. Providencia 1550, Providencia. Santiago, Chile. Phone 731-8300.
http://www.sernatur.cl.
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Puerto Montt, Chile
With a beautiful setting on the Gulf of Reloncavi, 630
mi/1,015 km south of Santiago, Puerto Montt, Chile's
fastest-growing city, is the gateway for the "Inside
Passage" ferry to Puerto Natales and cruises to the
western Patagonian fjords, and the starting point for
the Southern Highway. Initially settled by German
immigrants who spread throughout the southern lakes
district, Puerto Montt dates from 1853, but little
remains of its early German heritage, which is better
glimpsed at nearby Puerto Varas (which also has
better accommodations).
Today, the economy is primarily based on forest products and fishing; its port of Angelmo has exceptional
fish and seafood, especially the centolla (king crabs) and locos (abalones). There are several national
parks in the vicinity.
Punta Arenas, Chile
Chilean Patagonia's most important city, Punta
Arenas was an important supply station for ships
prior to the completion of the Panama Canal and
the home to mansions of the wool barons who
transformed the economy of southernmost Chile
and Argentina. The main sights are the Plaza
Munoz Gamero, with its monument to Hernando
de Magallanes (Magellan), the regional museum
(formerly the Braun-Menendez mansion), and the
cemetery—graves and monuments to the first
settlers and pioneer families from throughout
Europe, including Yugoslavs, Britons, Italians and Spaniards.
With the region's only commercial airport, Punta Arenas, 1,915 mi/3,085 km south of Santiago, is the
gateway to Tierra del Fuego, large offshore penguin colonies, Torres del Paine National Park and other
more remote destinations. Fort Bulnes, 35 mi/55 km south along the Strait of Magellan, is a
reconstruction of Chile's initial 19th-century settlement; nearby is the site of Puerto de Hambre, whose
16th-century Spanish settlers starved to death during a bad winter.
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Ushuaia, Argentina
Most consider Ushuaia to be the southernmost
city in the world. Ushuaia's port is a common
stopover for visits to Antarctica.
The port itself, at Avenida Maipu 510, is wholly
given over to commercial shipping.
Passengers disembarking there generally
head straight for the city proper, as there are
no tourist facilities at the port terminal itself.
The city grew around a prison, whose
prisoners helped to build the town and the
foundation for the Tren del Fin del Mundo (End of the World Train), the southernmost railway in the world.
The railway connects visitors to Tierra del Fuego National Park.
Other attractions in Ushuaia include wildlife (penguins, birds and orcas) and nearby ski areas. The ski
areas often keep the lifts running in summer for hikes to a nearby glacier.
The city experiences misty and foggy conditions for much of the year, so rain protection is a necessity for
visitors. Be aware that the city also experiences strong winds. Warm clothing is necessary even in
summer months, when average high temperatures don't rise much above 47 F/14 C.
Puerto Madryn, Argentina
The city of Puerto Madryn is in the north east of Chubut Province in the Patagonia region of Argentina on the shores of Gulfo Nuevo, a large, deep water bay of the Atlantic Ocean. The city is a popular summer destination because of its beautiful beaches - although the water can be very cold and the wind impressive.
The current population is estimated between 60,000 to 70,000 and the city has been growing rapidly in the last few years due mainly to the expanding tourism industry, fishing and Aluar-the aluminum refinery.
Puerto Madryn is the gateway to nearby Peninsula Valdes.
The area was first populated by the indigenous Tehuelche people. The first Europeans to settle in the area were Welsh arriving in 1865. They named the city for Baron Madryn of Wales
From Puerto Madryn daytrips run to Punta Tombo. This is a penguin colony where you can walk
among thousands of penguins between the months of October and March.
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Punta del Este, Uruguay
During high season, glamorous Punta del Este,
Uruguay (or Punta, as most call it after a couple of
days), is filled with rich South Americans, mainly
Argentines, looking for sun and fun.
Located 70 mi/110 km east of Montevideo, Punta
del Este proper is a narrow spit of land jutting into
the Atlantic, surrounded by beaches and a yacht
harbor, but informally it encompasses a much larger
area. Around its edge is the oceanfront promenade,
the Rambla General Artigas, which is lined with
cafes, bars and seafood restaurants. You can
spend the day at the beach enjoying one of many
watersports (yachting, swimming, surfing, deep-sea fishing and waterskiing). Then relax in the afternoon
with a traditional British high tea (tea and scones) at one of the tearooms in town.
West of town, the wonderfully surreal Casa Pueblo is a good place for a break from the sun: The Moorish-
style fortress, once the home of painter Carlos Paez Vilaro, is now an art gallery and hotel. Punta also
has great golf courses, tennis courts and a vibrant nightlife (restaurants, discos and casinos).
Because of its unique geography, the peninsula at Punta lets you watch the sun both rise and set over
water. The beaches are good, with each having a certain ambience of its own—one stretch of sand may
be for families, another for sporty types, one for teenagers and another, apparently, for supermodels
(many of whom spend their summers there instead of Buenos Aires). The scene changes from season to
season, so you'll just have to find where you're comfortable. Playa Mansa, protected by the peninsula, is
calmer than the Playa Brava beaches that face the Atlantic. The Mansa beaches are favored by families
and watersports enthusiasts. Playa Brava's waves draw surfers, and the activity carries on into the night,
with numerous pubs and nightlife options.
Day trips can be taken to Isla Gorriti, a beautiful island just off the coast, which has uncrowded white
beaches and the ruins of an 18th-century fort. Another boat trip will take you around Isla de Lobos, an
island jammed with sea lions. If you would rather travel by car, drive a short way to the resort town of
Piriapolis, anchored by the grande dame of Uruguayan resorts, the Argentino Hotel. Or drive east from
the peninsula past the spectacular mansions to Jose Ignatio, an increasingly popular small resort 19
mi/30 km west of town with perhaps the prettiest beaches, best waves and finest restaurants in Uruguay.
The season runs December-March (summertime in the Southern Hemisphere). During January and
February, the beaches can be crowded, the traffic horrendous and the prices steep. The best time to visit
is early December and from early March.
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Montevideo, Uruguay
Overview
Introduction
Uruguay's capital, Montevideo, is one of South
America's more attractive capitals, even if its
once-grand colonial architecture could use a little
sprucing up. Home to nearly half the country's 3.3
million people, it's a city of beaches, plazas,
restaurants, cafes, nightclubs and casinos. The
Ciudad Vieja (Old Town) and the newer downtown
area hold the most interest for visitors. Improved security has made the Ciudad Vieja the heart of the
city's nightlife, though its accommodations are only so-so. We suggest two nights to visit both the old and
new parts of town.
If time is available, drive around the suburbs and the harbor to see ships coming in (sunset from the pier
is beautiful).
Festivals include South America's longest celebration, the 45-day-long Carnival de Montevideo, and a
rodeo during Easter.
See & Do
Sightseeing
A pleasant way to start your tour is to see the entire city from the 11th-story terrace of the Palacio
Municipal, located on the main street, Avenida 18 de Julio. Or you can take in the view from the old
Spanish fort. Afterward, go to Ordonez Park to see the rose garden (more than 850 varieties) and La
Carreta (a covered-wagon monument—there's a similar one for stagecoaches in El Prado Park). Other
sights include the Palacio Taranco (an 18th-century European-style mansion), the Casa Garibaldi (once
the home of Italian freedom fighter Giuseppe Garibaldi) and the renovated Solis Theater, South America's
best in terms of beautiful architecture, acoustics and broad cultural offerings). If you need to take a break
for a coffee or beer, both Plaza Entrevero and Plaza Constitucion have pleasant outdoor cafes.
Also worth seeing are the Plaza Independencia, Museo Torres Garcia (works by Uruguayan artist
Joaquin Torres Garcia), National Museum of Fine Arts (Parque Rodo), Museum of Natural History, the
Legislative Palace (mosaic floors and stained-glass windows) and the beaches (Ramirez, Malvin or
Pocitos).
There's an exceptional gaucho museum upstairs from the Banco de la Republica, which also has a small
money museum on Avenida 18 de Julio. Make a point of stopping in, if only to see the building itself—the
interior is marvelous. The Rambla, the avenue running along the beach, is good for walking.
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Shopping
Montevideo has several interesting outdoor markets, including the Feria de Villa Biarritz (open Saturday
as a flea market and Tuesday as a farmers market) and Feria de Tristan Narvaja (a sprawling flea market
open Sunday morning). The artisans market, located on San Jose Street, is open Monday-Saturday.
Dining
Dining Overview
If it's lunchtime, head for the Ciudad Vieja's Mercado del Puerto. Inside this ornate building (it was once a
train station), market stalls have been converted into parrillas (grills) and seafood restaurants (try El
Palenque), with exterior sidewalk seating as well. Many of the establishments have proper tables, but
many visitors prefer sitting on a stool facing the grill for an up-close view of the action.
For lunch and dinner, the Bacacay pedestrian mall and Mitre Street, near the Solis Theater, are the heart
of the Ciudad Vieja's nightlife. Restaurants worth trying include El Abasto (Bacacay 1309) for beef, Don
Peperone (Sarandi and Bartolome Mitre) for pastas and La Corte (Sarandi 586) for a more diverse
international menu.
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Overview
Introduction
Buenos Aires, Argentina, is a wonderful
combination of sleek skyscrapers and past
grandeur, a collision of the ultrachic and
tumbledown. Still, there has always been an
undercurrent of melancholy in B.A. (as it is
affectionately known by expats who call Buenos
Aires home), which may help explain residents'
devotion to that bittersweet expression of
popular culture in Argentina, the tango. Still
performed—albeit much less frequently now—
in the streets and cafes, the tango has a
romantic and nostalgic nature that is
emblematic of Buenos Aires itself.
Travel to Buenos Aires is popular, especially with stops in the neighborhoods of San Telmo, Palermo—
and each of its colorful smaller divisions—and the array of plazas that help make up Buenos Aires tours.
Highlights
Sights—Inspect the art-nouveau and art-deco architecture along Avenida de Mayo; see the "glorious
dead" in the Cementerio de la Recoleta and the gorgeously chic at bars and cafes in the same
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neighborhood; shop for antiques and see the tango dancers at Plaza Dorrego and the San Telmo Street
Fair on Sunday; tour the old port district of La Boca and the colorful houses along its Caminito street;
cheer at a soccer match between hometown rivals Boca Juniors and River Plate (for the very
adventurous only).
Museums—Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA: Coleccion Costantini); Museo
Nacional de Bellas Artes; Museo Municipal de Arte Hispano-Americano Isaac Fernandez Blanco; Museo
Historico Nacional; Museo de la Pasion Boquense (Boca football); one of two tango museums: Museo
Casa Carlos Gardel or Museo Mundial del Tango.
Memorable Meals—A drink, elegant tea or snack at Cafe Tortoni; the best beef at a parrilla (steak
house) such as Cabana Las Lilas or La Cabrera; delicious wood-oven-baked pizza at Siamo Nel Forno in
Palermo Hollywood; the trendy restaurants Olsen in Palermo Hollywood or Sucre in Belgrano; pasta at La
Parolaccia; the unique dining experience of El Obrero in La Boca.
Late Night—Dancing in the huge Crobar disco or the Funky Room at Club Bahrein; samba in Maluco
Beleza; quaffing a beer at The Kilkenny or Down Town Matias; exploring the lively Puerto Madero and
Palermo Viejo areas.
Tango—An over-the-top tango-and-dinner show at stylish Piazzolla Tango; intimate concerts in San
Telmo bars; old-style tango dancing at the remaining milongas across the city, such as the Club Gricel,
Salon Canning or El Nino Bien.
Walks—Calle Defensa from the Plaza de Mayo to Parque Lezama in San Telmo; stroll through the
Rosedal rose gardens, particularly September-February; follow the trails in the Costanera Sur Ecological
Reserve.
Especially for Kids—Feed the animals at the Jardin Zoologico; stroll along the yacht basin at Puerto
Madero; check out the stars at the Galileo Galilei Planetarium; take a boat ride in the Parque de Palermo;
the rides at El Parque de la Costa theme park.
Geography
The city of Buenos Aires occupies 79 sq mi/127 sq km of flat terrain, bordered on the east by the Rio de
la Plata. The central city streets are laid out on a grid pattern, with few diagonals, but outlying
neighborhoods are more irregular. Greater Buenos Aires sprawls in all directions across the humid
pampas and contains roughly half the country's population.
The city is made up of 48 distinct barrios, or neighborhoods, and those nearest the Rio de la Plata hold
the most interest for tourists. The downtown area, also known as the Microcentro, is the banking,
business and government district. Plaza de Mayo, together with the neighborhoods of Monserrat and San
Telmo toward the south, make up the city's historical heart. To the north and northwest are the middle-
and upper-class residential districts of Retiro, Barrio Norte, Recoleta, Palermo (the city's largest) and
Belgrano. The southernmost barrio most tourists will visit (usually in daylight, when it is safest) is La Boca,
a colorful working-class neighborhood with strong Italian roots.
History
After it was permanently settled in 1580, Buenos Aires had 230 years—its colonial period—of erratic
growth. After Argentina broke from Spain's rule in 1810, Buenos Aires evolved rapidly as a commercial
hub and seat of political power, becoming the federal capital in 1880. Europeans recognized the potential
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of the port city: The British poured money into the area, and the Spanish and Italians arrived in droves,
along with French, eastern European, Japanese and German settlers.
When immigration from the Old World was all but halted after 1930, those of Spanish-South American
mestizo origins migrated from the interior and filled many jobs. From this influx arose conflicts with the
existing urban population and the problem of crowded city slums and shantytowns.
It was from these throngs of poor people that populist President Juan Peron, along with his wife Eva
(Evita), found their greatest support. They often stirred huge crowds of Argentines in speeches from the
balcony of the Casa Rosada, which overlooks the Plaza de Mayo. Peron's presidency (1946-55) was
followed by decades of truculent military rule, with only brief periods of respite.
The Plaza de Mayo is still the site of demonstrations, although the famous annual marches calling for a
full accounting of events in the so-called "Dirty War" of 1970-83, when the country was run by a military
junta and more than 30,000 dissidents "disappeared" now occur only on 24 March. On Thursday
afternoons, the Madres de la Plaza de Mayo still march in their distinctive head scarves embroidered with
the names of the missing, demanding information about their children and grandchildren who were taken
by police and military death squads.
For most of the 1980s, economic problems, including hyperinflation, limited the city's progress, but Carlos
Menem's 1990s presidency tamed inflation and brought some stability. Redevelopment took place,
including in the Puerto Montt waterfront. The downside of Menem's legacy was an overvalued peso and
systemic corruption that brought financial collapse. Marches and demonstrations by the unemployed and
the middle class, who lost their dollar-denominated savings to devaluation, have diminished but still occur
on occasion.
The election of the late Nestor Kirchner in 2003, along with subsequent judicial and foreign-policy
reforms, went a long way toward turning things around. Although elected by a slim margin, Kirchner was
popular, and the economy rebounded, albeit temporarily. In October 2007, Kirchner died of heart
complications. However, in late 2010, his widow, Cristina, was handily elected as his successor. Thanks
to a heavy-handed policy of almost autocratic decision-making, Cristina Kirchner immediately alienated
many important constituents. Forced to back down on several key economic issues in the face of open
hostility and threats of violence, the country—and Buenos Aires in particular—continues to face an
uncertain economic future.
Port Information
Location
Cruise ships stop at Buenos Aires, typically November-April, on round-the-world cruises, Argentina-Brazil
summer cruises (the summer months there being November-February) and the popular Argentina-Chile
cruises, which stop over in Patagonia en route.
Located in the Puerto Nuevo area, north of the Puerto Madero development zone, the Terminal de
Cruceros Benito Quinquela Martin is on Avenida Presidente Ramon Castillo, between Avenida de los
Inmigrantes and Avenida Antartida Argentina. It has a tourist-information office, shops and cafes. Nearby
there's a locutorio for phone and Internet access, and taxis are usually parked in the vicinity. Phone 4317-
0600.
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Potpourri
Buenos Aires boasts one of the world's largest concentrations of psychiatrists and psychologists in the
so-called "Villa Freud," an area overlapping Barrio Norte and Alto Palermo. It is also the site of nearly
18,000 cosmetic surgery procedures every year.
Alto Palermo's Museo Evita is the first Argentine museum honoring a woman.
Dating from 1913, the Subte was South America's first underground rail system, and many original
wooden cars still run on Line A, from Plaza de Mayo.
Retiro's Kavanagh Building, which overlooks Plaza San Martin, was the city's first skyscraper (1935).
Jose de San Martin is clearly the country's main hero, with statues, streets and plazas named after him.
He is also referred to as simply El Libertador. His tomb in Buenos Aires' Metropolitan Cathedral is treated
as a shrine.
Although it can get really cold in the winter months (June-August), it has only snowed twice in Buenos
Aires in the past 100-plus years, in 1918 and 2007.
Because of the heavy Italian influence on their culture, Argentines speak Spanish with an Italian accent.
They are also the only Spanish speakers who pronounce words with "ll" as "shhh." For example, llamas
would be pronounced shamas.
See & Do
Sightseeing
Upon arrival in Buenos Aires, many visitors make a beeline for Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo
neighborhood of colonial and tango fame, whether or not the Sunday flea market is in progress. Many put
the Recoleta Cemetery high on their list of things to see: You can pay your respects to Evita if you look
for the tomb marked Familia Duarte.
As you take in the city's displays of civic grandeur, absolutely do not miss the Teatro Colon: try to watch a
performance, or at least take a guided tour of its labyrinthine interior. The view of the building from
anywhere on the Avenida Villamonte is stunning.
Make time to see the delightful greenery in the Parque Tres de Febrero (in Palermo Chico), which houses
many Japanese gardens, a rose garden, art museums, a lake with paddleboats, a horse track and more.
Those drawn to the water should stroll around the Puerto Madero area, which harbors a yacht club,
expensive restaurants, two museum ships, several hotels, offices, movie theaters and a university
campus. Or, for a less upper-crust look at the water, head to the old port neighborhood of La Boca,
Buenos Aires' colorful version of Little Italy.
Those who happen to be in Buenos Aires on a Sunday should take a car service or bus to the Mataderos
Fair to watch folk dancing and the gaucho displays. There's plenty to eat: Try some empanadas or the
hearty meat-and-corn stew.
Museum enthusiasts won't want to miss the National History Museum, although it steers clear of
controversial events since the 1970s, or the Isaac Fernandez Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art, a
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replica of a Peruvian colonial mansion complete with gardens. Alto Palermo's Museo de Arte
Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) is definitely worth a visit.
For those wanting to take in some classical art, Recoleta's National Fine Arts Museum is the destination
of choice. Palermo's Eduardo Sivori Museum exhibits more contemporary works. The country's cultural
heritage is explored at the Jose Hernandez Museum of Popular Argentine Motifs. La Boca's Museo de la
Pasion Boquense traces the history of Boca Juniors, soccer player Diego Maradona's club, and there are
two tango museums—the Museo Casa Carlos Gardel and the Museo Mundial del Tango—for fanatics of
this famous Argentine dance.
Museum admission prices are a universal bargain, generally ranging from "a small donation requested" to
several pesos.
Historic Sites
Avenida 9 de Julio
Named for the day in 1816 that Argentina declared independence from Spain, this main north-south
thoroughfare is 460 ft/140 m wide and lays claim to being the widest boulevard in the world. It is now
more pedestrian-friendly, although one can cross underground near the landmark Obelisco as well.
Basilica Nuestra Senora del Pilar Junin 1904 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4803-6793 http://www.basilicadelpilar.org.ar
This 18th-century church is considered one of the best-preserved examples of Argentine colonial
architecture. Its ornate silver altar, tile work and chapels deserve more than a quick look, and don't miss
seeing the skulls and bones at the entryway—they're the remains of some of the area's early inhabitants.
See it in conjunction with the Recoleta Cemetery, which is right next door. Its former monastery is now the
Recoleta Cultural Center and the Buenos Aires Design Center. The small Museo de los Claustros del
Pilar, located in the original cloisters of the monastery, has a beautiful selection of religious artifacts, and
you can enjoy the excellent views of the cemetery from upstairs windows.
Church open daily 7:30 am-10 pm; museum daily 10:30 am-6 pm. Museum admission 4 P; church
admission is free.
Cabildo de Buenos Aires Bolivar 65 (opposite Plaza de Mayo) Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4334-1782 http://www.cultura.gov.ar/direcciones/?info=organismo&id=9&idd=5 Dating from the mid-18th century, this building was the place where, on 25 May 1810, locals capitalized
on the Spanish crown's political woes in Europe and launched the independence movement by deposing
Spanish viceroy Baltasar Hidalgo de Cisneros. The structure's left and right wings were demolished to
make way for the Avenida de Mayo in 1889 and Diagonal Sur (Avenida Julio Roca) in 1931. The building
now houses a rather unexciting museum, guarded by sentinels in period uniforms, that offers a fine view
of Plaza de Mayo.
Museum open Wednesday-Friday 10:30 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am-6 pm. Admission 4 P.
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Catedral Metropolitana On Plaza de Mayo (at San Martin 27) Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4345-3369 http://www.catedralbuenosaires.org.ar This cathedral facing Plaza de Mayo has been rebuilt many times during the past four centuries. The
current building, completed in 1827, has a neoclassical facade and an eclectic interior, in which a
colonial-era altar coexists with Italian Renaissance paintings. An adjacent chapel contains the
mausoleum of national hero Gen. Jose de San Martin guarded by statues representing Argentina, Peru
and Chile.
Open Monday-Friday 7 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-7:30 pm.
Cementerio de la Recoleta Junin 1760 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4804-7040 http://www.cementeriorecoleta.com.ar
One of the most important sights in B.A., the elaborate tombs in the 19th-century Recoleta Cemetery
cover 13 acres/5 hectares. The miniature Gothic cathedrals, neoclassical temples and art-deco shrines
are the final resting places of illustrious founding fathers, local aristocracy and important families. You
could easily spend a day or two there and never get bored by all the graceful angels adorning the tombs.
The most famous resident of the cemetery is the firebrand wife of President Juan Peron, Eva Duarte de
Peron, known simply as Evita. For many, a visit to her family vault (Duarte, not Peron) is a pilgrimage.
The municipal tourist office offers guided tours (in Spanish) at irregular intervals. Call 5614-8869 for
reservations.
Daily 7 am-5:45 pm.
Iglesia y Convento de Santo Domingo Ave. Defensa 422 (a few blocks south of Plaza de Mayo) Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4331-1668 http://www.curiosamonserrat.com.ar/iglesia/domingo.html
This church's altar (carved from a single block of white marble) and huge organ (one of the country's
largest and oldest) are worth a look. Note the bullet marks on one of the belfries—it was fired on by
incensed locals in 1807 when English troops who had invaded the city occupied the building and flew the
Union Jack there. English flags captured during various battles, along with artifacts, are on display inside
the church.
Basilica open Monday-Friday 7 am-6 pm, Saturday for Mass at 6:30 pm, Sunday 11 am-5 pm. Entrance
free. To visit the convent during the week, call ahead to arrange a guided tour. It also opens on Sunday
for free guided visits.
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Obelisco
Plaza de la Republica (at the intersection of Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida Corrientes)
Buenos Aires, Argentina
http://bsas.gov.ar/areas/med_ambiente/obelisco_01.php
Considered a symbol of Buenos Aires, this monument was erected in 1936 to commemorate the 400th
anniversary of the city's first (albeit not permanent) founding. It stands 220 ft/67 m high, making it a useful
landmark when navigating the city.
Palacio Barolo 1370 Ave. de Mayo Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4381-1885 http://www.palaciobarolotours.com.ar This restored office building was the tallest building in Latin America (and one of the tallest in the world)
when it was completed in 1923. The architecture can best be described as a mix of neo-romantic and
neo-Gothic, but also is said to derive some of its inspiration from Dante's Divine Comedy. It's worth a stop
if only for the 22-story-high views of the city. Bilingual, guided tours are offered during the day, but an
even better option might be the evening guided tours, when the lighthouse on the top floor is turned on
and the tour ends with wine and a local delicacy.
Tours Monday 4-7 pm, Wednesday and Friday 8 pm, Thursday 4-7 pm and 8:30 pm. Day tours 50 P,
night tours 95 P.
Palacio del Congreso Nacional Western end of Avenida de Mayo Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4010-3000 http://www.congreso.gov.ar
Begun in 1888 and opened in 1906, the Italianate Congress building has a towering copper dome that is
illuminated at night. Both the upper-house Senate and the lower-house Chamber of Deputies are open for
guided tours. Take a photo ID or passport. Enter at Hipolito Yrigoyen 1849.
Guided tours of both the Senate and Chamber of Deputies take place on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday
and Friday at 11 am and 4 pm in English and 11 am and 5 pm in Spanish.
Plaza de Mayo
Microcentro
Buenos Aires, Argentina
This plaza is a little less grand than you might envision, although the monumental obelisk and soaring
palms are attractive. The lack of shade means it's not really a place for relaxed people-watching. You're
more likely to set foot there on your way to see one of the sites bordering the square: the Cabildo (first
city council building), Catedral Metropolitana and the Casa Rosada (the presidential palace). The plaza
has been the site of many political demonstrations (see it in the morning, when there's less chance of
running into a gathering), as well as public addresses by presidents and other leaders.
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Teatro Colon Tucuman 1171 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4378-7127 for tour information http://www.teatrocolon.org.ar
Opened in 1908 and modeled on Milan's La Scala (but actually larger), this is the architectural and
cultural heart of Buenos Aires. Since the beginning of the 20th century, opera stars from Maria Callas to
Luciano Pavarotti have sung on the stage of the Colon, considered one of the world's top opera houses
for its natural acoustics and infrastructure. Seats 2,400 people.
Ticket office for tours open 9 am-3:45 pm. Tours in English on the hour 11 am-2 pm. Tours 60 P.
Torre de los Ingleses Ave. del Liberador 49 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4311-0186 http://www.torremonumental.buenosaires.gob.ar
Presented to the city by British residents in 1916, this clock tower stands 195 ft/60 m tall and offers some
of the finest panoramas of downtown. The square where it stands was renamed Plaza de la Fuerza
Aerea (Air Force Square) in the wake of the Falkland Islands War, but the new names given to the tower
(Torre Monumental and Torre del Reloj) haven't stuck—Englishmen's Tower it remains.
Open Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 9 am-6 pm. Call during the week to
make reservations for the tour.
Museums
Museo de Arte Espanol Enrique Larreta Ave. Juramento 2291 (go north on the metro D line) Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4783-2640 http://www.museolarreta.buenosaires.gob.ar It's worth a trip to the outlying barrio of Belgrano to see this elegant mansion, built and owned by an
Argentine novelist who admired Spanish culture. It is packed with grand old furniture and his collections of
Renaissance and modern Spanish art. The Andalusian gardens out back are draped with climbing plants,
and a native ombu tree stands at the center.
Open Monday-Friday 1-7 pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 10 am-8 pm. Guided tours Saturday and
Sunday at 4 and 6 pm. Guided tours available during the week by reservation only. 1 P, free on Thursday.
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Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) Ave. Figueroa Alcorta 3415 (between Salguero and San Martin de Tours) Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4808-6500 http://www.malba.org.ar
This world-class museum in the Palermo neighborhood is home to the renowned collection of Eduardo
Costantini. Works by Latin American artists are the focus: Some (such as Frida Kahlo and Diego de
Rivera) are better known than others, but all are interesting. Check out the works of Argentine artists Xul
Solar and Antonio Berni. The top floor hosts traveling international modern art exhibits. The building itself
is airy and filled with natural light, which makes viewing the art a pleasure. The adjoining cafe is popular.
Open daily except Tuesday noon-8 pm, Wednesday till 9 pm. 25 P adults, 12 P students, 11 P seniors,
free for children younger than 5. Wednesday admission 10 P adults, 6 P seniors, free for students.
Museo de Arte Popular Jose Hernandez Libertador 2373, Recoleta Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4803-2384 http://museohernandez.org.ar
The most comprehensive collection of folk art and gaucho (cowboy) silverwork in Argentina can be seen
at the Jose Hernandez Museum of Popular Argentine Motifs. A reproduction of a 19th-century pulperia
(country general store and bar) awaits visitors in an old house that was donated in 1938.
Guided tours Wednesday-Friday 1-7 pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 10 am-8 pm; closed New Year's
Day, Labor Day, Good Friday and Christmas Day. 1 P, free on Sunday.
Museo de la Casa Rosada Hipolito Yrigoyen 219, Plaza de Mayo Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4344-3804 http://www.casarosada.gov.ar
Built on the site of the city's first permanent fort, this eclectic Italianate building is the seat of national
government. It has been pink since 1873, when (as some historians claim) President Domingo F.
Sarmiento decided that would be the best way to pacify two warring political factions, whose colors were
white and red. The current paint job is an attempt to re-create its original shade of pink. Free guided tours
of the museum (where you can see some personal belongings of past presidents, as well as some of their
carriages and excavated portions of the original fort) are given throughout the day, and tours of the actual
Casa (where government functions are carried out) are given in the late afternoon.
The museum is open daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm. 1 P, free on Wednesday and Saturday, with free
guided tours in English.
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Museo de la Ciudad
Defensa 219
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4331-9855
http://www.museodelaciudad.buenosaires.gob.ar
The City Museum's exhibits showcase Buenos Aires' architectural heritage and document the everyday
life of its inhabitants throughout history. The museum itself is at the top of a narrow marble staircase in a
late-19th-century building. The display windows of the well-preserved La Estrella pharmacy on the
building's ground floor serve as a sort of permanent exhibit, as well.
Open Monday-Friday 11 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-8 pm. 1 P, free on Monday and
Wednesday.
Museo Evita Lafinur 2988 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4807-0306 http://www.museoevita.org This museum, a former mansion, is dedicated to Eva Peron, the most controversial Argentine woman in h
istory. Some of her personal items, film clips of her public appearances and movies, and excerpts from
her speeches are on display. The building was once a shelter—established by Evita—for unwed mothers
and their children.
Open daily except Monday 11 am-7 pm; closed New Year's Eve, New Year's Day, Labor Day, Christmas
Eve and Christmas Day. 15 P admission, 35 P guided visit.
Museo Mundial del Tango Ave. Rivadavia 830, First Floor (Palacio Carlos Gardel) Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4345-6968 http://www.anacdeltango.org.ar/museo.asp
This museum preserves the history of the genesis, evolution, boom years (1910-30) and decline of
Buenos Aires' best-known export. The fantastic collection includes old tango scores garnered from the
National Academy of Tango (which also is housed in this building), as well as funyi (fedora-style) hats
(including one of Carlos Gardel's, of course), old suits, shoes and other paraphernalia.
Open Monday-Friday 2-8 pm.
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Parks & Gardens
Although there are other, smaller parks in town, the area in Palermo alternately referred to as Parque
Tres de Febrero, Parque de Palermo and Bosques de Palermo is an enormous complex of parks and
green spaces in the Palermo neighborhood. It's a gem within the city. Look for the distinctive native ombu
and gomero trees, the jacarandas with their purple flowers, and the cherry trees from Japan. From the
central Plaza Intendente Seeber, you can easily reach the Rosedal (rose garden), the Japanese garden
and, to the south, the zoo and botanical gardens. The area is abuzz with activity, especially on weekends.
Phone 4800-1135.
http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/med_ambiente/parque_3_de_febrero/resena_historica.php?menu_i
d=18892.
Carlos Thays Botanical Garden Ave. Santa Fe 3951 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4831-4527 http://jardinbotanico.buenosaires.gob.ar This garden contains several thousand plant varieties, arranged by continent. Three-quarters of the space
is devoted to Argentine plants. Three greenhouses are used for tropical plants, one for cacti. It's a great
place to stroll or relax on a bench with a book, as long as you aren't allergic to cats—an incredible
number of feral cats call the garden home.
Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-7:30 pm. Free.
Parque Lezama
Avenida Alte. Brown, San Telmo
Buenos Aires, Argentina
http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/cultura/casco/recorridos/circuito_parque_lezama.php?menu_id=241
04
Though run-down in parts, this handsomely designed park, the former grounds of a mansion built by
Charles Ridgely Horne in the mid-19th century, is widely believed to be the site of the founding of Buenos
Aires. On the park's south side is the mansion, which now houses the National History Museum; on the
northern side are the imposing Russian Orthodox Church and the murky Bar Britanico cafe, where
scenes for Argentine TV series are often filmed. Drummers and other musicians sometimes perform, and
artisans hawk their wares.
Rosedal
The intersection of Avenida del Libertador and Sarmiento
Buenos Aires, Argentina
http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/med_ambiente/parque_3_de_febrero/rosedal
These rose gardens are a popular place to stroll, especially September-February, when the flowers are in
bloom. You can also rent a paddleboat and take to the adjacent lake.
Daily 8 am-8 pm, shorter hours in winter.
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Recreation
Buenos Aires offers plenty of green space to enjoy. The enormous (890-acre/360-hectare) Costanera Sur
Ecological Reserve is east of the Microcentro and Puerto Madero. In good weather, it's a great place to
go for bird-watching, bicycling and more. Phone 4342-6003.
http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/med_ambiente/reserva/resenia.php.
The Costanera Norte runs alongside Jorge Newberry Airport and is more for strolling and easy cycling or
fishing. It has two distinct areas—the northern reserve
(http://www.argentinaviajera.com.ar/espanol/buenosaires/palcostanera.html#uba) and the southern
reserve (http://www.buenostours.com/costanera-sur-ecological-reserve).
If you fancy a swim, there's Parque Ribera Sur, a huge pool and park near the Autodromo, Buenos Aires'
speedway, in Villa Lugano, as well as a more family-friendly pool called Parque Norte, north of the airport.
And the Parque de Palermo (http://www.argentinaviajera.com.ar/espanol/buenosaires/palermo.html),
somewhat surprisingly the most-visited section of the city, is a wonderful area for a variety of activities:
ride a bike, visit a planetarium (or zoo or botanical garden), go for a walk or jog, rent a boat, smell the
roses or bet on the horses. It's a great place to people-watch, too.
Tennis courts are free and are everywhere in the more upscale neighborhoods and in several parks.
Some hotels also have their own courts, and there are several tennis clubs in town that offer day passes.
Several companies offer bike tours of the city. A trip to an estancia outside the city will include horseback
riding.
Nightlife
Going out at night—until the small hours of the next day—is a cherished porteno custom. In the
beginning, there were (and still are) tango music and dance halls, then nightclubs and discos. Now,
British pubs, high-end cocktail lounges, angular dance clubs and theme cafes are the rage.
Nightspots are everywhere, but there are pockets of particular interest along the Costanera Norte
riverside drive and in Puerto Madero, the Microcentro, Palermo and Belgrano. Palermo Viejo, along with
its immediate neighbors Palermo Chico, Palermo Hollywood and Palermo Soho, has a particularly good
assortment of places to hang out—you can easily hop from one bar to another without having to walk very
far.
Nights in Buenos Aires begin late and often end in the wee hours of the morning. Many people dine late,
have a drink or coffee and then hit the clubs shortly after midnight (although 2 am is when the dance
clubs really get going). Clubs don't close before 5 am (when the subway starts running again) and most
close well after dawn, so you can pick up breakfast before heading home.
Shopping
You'll find abundant shopping opportunities in Buenos Aires. Be prepared for some genuine sticker shock
on many retail items, but leather goods are among the best deals, perhaps as little as one-third the price
you would pay at home. Typical Argentine gaucho handicrafts can be found easily, often in specialty
stores called talabarterias. Such items tend to be leather belts and hats, which are often trimmed with
silver.
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Street markets in Mataderos, Plaza Francia and Plaza Dorrego are some of the best places to shop.
More establishments are concentrated in the barrios of Recoleta, Retiro and Barrio Norte. Home
decorations, along with elegant, expensive and European-imported clothes, can be found in several
shopping malls, but especially in Palermo Viejo (prices have risen on imported goods, though, so don't
expect to find many deals on them).
Paraphernalia for the preparation and consumption of yerba mate can be found everywhere. Wine is
naturally high on a lot of shopping lists, although you will have to lug it home, as well as claim your value-
added-tax refund at the airport, which can be a maddening process if you're in a hurry.
Buenos Aires is also one of the best places in the world to find antiques, but shipping some antiques out
of the country can require a special permit from the government's cultural office. The packaging of these
goods is also an important consideration. Check with your antiques dealer on these and other shipping
issues.
Shopping Hours: Shops in town are generally open Monday-Friday 9:30 or 10 am-8 or 9 pm (many also
close 1-3 pm for siesta), Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Shopping malls with food courts and cinemas are generally
open daily 10 am-10 pm with no siesta. Note that many shopping malls in Buenos Aires also have
cinemas, which are very popular during the humid summer.
Markets
Mataderos Fair
Lisandro de la Torre and Avenida de los Corrales (a 30-minute cab ride from the Microcentro)
Buenos Aires, Argentina
http://www.feriademataderos.com.ar
If you're in town on a Sunday, don't miss this fair, which is certainly Buenos Aires' most authentic in terms
of handicrafts and traditional wares. You can shop for handicrafts when you aren't sampling the great
food or watching locals dance. There are gaucho displays, too.
Sunday 11 am-8 pm in winter, 6 pm-midnight in summer.
Plaza Dorrego Market
Humberto Primo and Defensa
Buenos Aires, Argentina
http://www.buenosaires123.com.ar/ferias/feria_san_telmo.php
Sunday brings a fun, flea-market atmosphere (along with every tourist in the city) to this epicenter of the
tango world. If you can tear yourself away from the dancing, you may stumble upon a find or two—there
are handicrafts, as well. Note that most of the "antiques" there are for the tourist trade and not originals.
Sunday 10 am-5 pm.
Plaza Francia Fair
Junin to Avenida Pueyrredon (near Recoleta Cemetery)
Buenos Aires, Argentina
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http://www.feriaplazafrancia.com
This is a fine place to look for crafts and leather goods.
Open Saturday and Sunday noon-8 pm.
Plaza Italia
Santa Fe y Uniarte
Buenos Aires, Argentina
http://www.365buenosaires.com/d2351_feria-plaza-italia-libros.html
Normally a used-book emporium, it is also a market for inexpensively priced handicrafts.
Saturday and Sunday noon-8:30 pm.
Shopping Areas
Avenida Santa Fe Avenida Santa Fe between avenidas Uruguay and Pueyrredon Buenos Aires, Argentina
In this 12-block area, shoppers will find a bewildering number of quality shoe and leather-purse stores,
with reasonable prices.
Calle Morillo at Avenida Scalabrini Ortiz
This area at the southwestern edge of Palermo contains a multitude of discount leather shops far away
from the tourist masses. You can buy off-the-rack, get jackets custom fitted, or even select your style and
color and have a coat custom tailored. Very little English is spoken there—take along a phrase book or
dictionary.
Most shops will accept credit cards, but prices are 10%-15% lower if you pay cash. No extra charge for
hotel delivery.
Galerias Pacifico Entrances on Florida, Viamonte, San Martin and Cordoba Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 5555-5100 http://www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar
This is one of the ritzier shopping malls in the city—the landmark building is famous for the Mexican-
inspired friezes on the central cupola. The gorgeous building is reason enough to have a look-see, even if
you're not really shopping.
Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Sunday noon-9 pm.
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Materia Urbana
Defensa 702
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4361-5265
http://www.materiaurbana.com
This upstairs gallery has been busily adding new stores and artists under its umbrella. There are already
more than 100 local artists and designers on display there, the vast majority specializing in contemporary
sculpture, ceramics, painting, photography, jewelry, home decor and design. It may be a bit too hip for the
over-40 crowd, but it has some of the best prices in town.
Daily 11 am-7 pm.
Specialty Stores
Abraxas Defensa 1092 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4361-7512 http://www.abraxasantiques.com
This shop features a great selection of art-nouveau and art-deco jewelry pieces and decorative antiques.
Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 9 am-8 pm.
Arandu Paraguay 1259 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4816-3689 http://www.arandu.com.ar
In addition to leather clothes, hats, accessories and luggage, this talabarteria sells equipment for polo and
other equestrian sports. There are additional locations in Recoleta at Ayacucho 1924 and in Arandu
Atalajes at Talcahuano 949.
Open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-8:30 pm.
Artepampa Defensa 917 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4362-6406 http://www.artepampa.com Unique, Argentine-styled sculptures, paintings, tapestries, furniture and other goods made imaginatively
from various materials including leather and paper.
Open daily 10:30 am-7 pm.
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Balthazar Defensa 887 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4300-6926 http://www.balthazarshop.com
This is one of the city's more chic—and expensive—men's clothing shops. High-end ready-to-wear
collections with a European accent. If you pay in cash, you are offered a 20% discount. There is a second
location in Palermo Viejo at Gorriti 5131.
Open daily 11 am-8 pm.
Club de Tango de Oscar B. Himschoot Parana 123, Fifth Floor Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4372-7251 http://www.clubdetango.com.ar The late Oscar B. Himschoot was a tango institution in Buenos Aires, who knew and collected just about
anything related to tango. Now his granddaughter, Jimena Vazquez Acuna, runs the crammed little tango
store of "Oscarcito," which should be the first stop for every aficionado. There you can buy everything
tango, from CDs to original scores, books, postcards, videos and other memorabilia. Jimena throws in her
knowledge and anecdotes for free.
Open Monday-Friday noon-6 pm.
Marcelo Toledo
462 Ave. Humberto 1 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4362-0841 http://www.marcelotoledo.net
One of Buenos Aires' better-known (and very high-end) silversmiths. The store has every conceivable
item you can imagine in silver, and then some. One of the best places to buy a luxury mate kit. The store
itself is a work of art.
Marrasco & Speziale Pasco 765 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4942-4418 http://www.marascoyspeziale.com.ar
This family-owned store is more than five decades old. It finely crafts its own line of shoes, boots, hiking
boots and outdoor wear, with lots of offerings made from fine Argentine leather. It will tailor to your needs.
Open Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm.
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Martin Fierro Santa Fe 992 Buenos Aires, Argentina
Named for the hero of an epic 19th-century Argentine poem, this talabarteria (not to be confused with the
string of convenience stores under the same name) sells custom ladies' clothing as well as ready-to-wear
items, with native barracan wool and cotton fabrics. Onyx and rhodochrosite figurines, too.
Open Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-7:30 pm.
Mishka El Salvador 4673 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4833-6566 http://www.mishkashoes.com.ar
This urban footwear shop has shoes that are original, unique and colorful to the extreme (its hallmark), all
of which have complex linings and distinguishing characteristics. The shoes are quite popular, but also
quite pricey. There is a second location in Paseo Alcorta.
Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-8:30 pm. Sunday 3-8 pm.
Musimundo! Ravignani 1470 Buenos Aires, Argentina Phone: 4555-8600 http://www.musimundo.com
This well-stocked store—easily the largest music store in the city—contains electronics on the ground
floor and an extensive CD and DVD selection up the escalators. The store now also carries books.
Staffers will open and play anything you are interested in hearing or seeing before you buy. Go there to
stock up on tango music—from old favorites to the latest electronica. Several locations throughout the
city.
Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-9 pm, afternoon hours on Sunday.
Dining
Dining Overview
Buenos Aires, with its strong European tradition, offers a symphony of cuisines, many melded in
unexpected ways. Italo-Argentine pizzas, for example, have more ingredients and greater variety than the
Italian originals. A growing number of restaurants specialize in "new cuisine," or fashionable fusion
creations by big-name chefs. Others serve up dishes from the chefs' countries of origin. Asian—
particularly Japanese, Thai, Vietnamese and Indian—restaurants have answered the demand for exotic
food.
The country has a way with meat, and parrillas (steak houses) in particular are good places to see how
the locals get their protein. Make sure you go with a healthy appetite—the variety of grilled meats is
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remarkable. Popular cuts of steak include bife de lomo and bife de chorizo (not to be confused with the
sausage of the same name).
Since the 1990s, a large group of young chefs and restaurateurs has been challenging the meat
hegemony. In barrios such as Las Canitas and Palermo Viejo, Vietnamese, Mexican, Japanese and
sushi, Greek and Catalan restaurants have opened. In addition, pizzerias such as Filo are upgrading the
standards. It is easy to avoid steak and salad, if that's what you want to do, and the ethnic cuisines are
fairly vegetarian-friendly.
Argentine wines are regarded highly, especially red wines produced in the Mendoza subregions of Cuyo
and Lujan, near the Andes. White and sparkling wines have improved and are also winning international
awards. Bodega Norton varieties in particular are highly regarded. Red Malbec and white Torrontes are
unique to the country.
The city's leading restaurant districts are in and around the Microcentro area (including Retiro), trendy
Puerto Madero, chic Recoleta, Palermo Viejo and Las Canitas (northern Palermo).
Breakfast is usually served 7-10 am, and lunch is eaten noon-3 pm. Argentines dine very late in the
evening. Until 9:30 or 10 pm, most places are empty. Parrillas are best visited after 10 pm, when the grill
is warmed up and the dining area is jumping. There's little hurry once you're seated; you won't be rushed
along. Most restaurants don't close until the last customer leaves, and 2 am is not too late to order coffee
or cognac.
In Argentina, the Spanish word carne doesn't mean "meat," but specifically "beef." If you say you don't eat
carne, a server might suggest chicken or pork (sometimes called carnes blancas, or white meats). If you
are a vegetarian, say "soy vegetariano/a."
Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one, not including drinks,
tax or tip: $ = less than 40 P; $$ = 40 P-65 P; $$$ = 66 P-120 P; $$$$ = more than 120 P.
Local & Regional
Club del Progreso
Sarmiento 1334, San Nicolas
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4372-3380
http://www.restorandelprogreso.com.ar
Billed as the "historic Argentine restaurant," it is a favorite spot for the movers and shakers of Buenos
Aires. Power meals in an old, classic building with a "new classic" take on Argentinean beef, chicken and
seafood dishes such as calamari with house-made pappardelle or rib-eye steaks in a black pudding crust
with wild potatoes.
Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. $$$$.
Most major credit cards.
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Demuru
Honduras 5296, Palermo Soho
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4831-5812
http://www.demuru.com.ar
This cute and cozy restaurant (formerly called Desde el Alma) is one of the best places in town to snuggle
up with a loved one, either in the front room with a fireplace in winter, or in the back room modeled after
an upscale family dining room. Plenty of fish and vegetarian dishes provide some relief for the beef-
shunning crowd, although it serves excellent steaks and terrific Patagonian lamb, too.
Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. $$$-
$$$$. Accepts Visa cards.
El Sanjuanino
Posadas 1515
Buenos Aires, Argentina
This is one of the best spots in town to try traditional empanadas from the San Juan area, the
semicircular pies filled with tangy ground beef, corn, chicken or ham and cheese. The decor is warm and
cozy at this friendly place, and, considering its posh address, it's surprisingly cheap.
Daily for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
Fervor
Posada 1519
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4804-4944
http://www.fervorbrasas.com.ar
A small restaurant in Recoleta quickly winning fans for its finely prepared beef and seafood dishes. It is
sometimes hard to get a table, but it's worth the effort to check it out.
Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards.
La Vineria de Gualterio Bolivar
Bolivar 865, San Telmo (between Independencia and Estados Unidos)
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4361-4709
http://www.lavineriadegualteriobolivar.com
This place may look low-key, but it's one of the best in the city. Argentine chef Alejandro Digilio has
worked in the famous El Bulli restaurant of Ferran Adria in Barcelona, and he's adding hints of molecular
cuisine to fabulous Argentine meat and fish creations. Try the ever-changing 11-course tasting menu
written on a chalkboard. Interesting list of rare Argentine wines, too.
Daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
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Miramar
San Juan 1999, San Cristobal
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Out of the way and seemingly suspended in the 1950s, this barrio favorite makes no concessions
whatsoever to fashion—not even fresh paint—but the kitchen produces flavorful pastas, stews and
seafood. Sample local delicacies such as partridge, oysters, rabbit and anchovies. The rabo de toro
(oxtail soup) is highly recommended. Excellent wine list. The service is exemplary, but the wait can be
long and the space crowded, so try to time your arrival to this much-loved eatery. Tango fans should go
on Sunday evening, as Julio Pane occasionally performs with his bandoneon (accordion).
Open daily except Monday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards.
Sucre
Sucre 676
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4782-9082
http://www.sucrerestaurant.com.ar
Although no longer the "in" place it was in years past, Sucre is still a fashionable place to eat. It's big, with
trendy decor, and the diverse, contemporary menu boasts pasta dishes such as ravioli in rabbit and
black-olive sauce or organic chicken filled with couscous, apples and nuts. Or try a traditional Argentine
plate—the Patagonia leg of lamb. That is, if you can get in the door; the room is perpetually packed.
Open daily for dinner. Reservations available. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit cards.
Tomo 1
Carlos Pellegrini 521
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4326-6698
http://www.tomo1.com.ar
This is a perennial favorite among experts on Buenos Aires cuisine; sisters Ada and Ebe Concaro opened
this now-legendary restaurant in 1971 out of a Belgrano-neighborhood home. Their quality cooking was
appreciated, and they moved in 1994 to the mezzanine of the centrally located Hotel Crowne Plaza
Panamericano. The menu changes constantly, but the plates are always lively takes on beef, Patagonian
lamb, pork, duck, quail, foie gras, seafood and pasta. It's not a place for intimate dining, though, so just go
for the food and quality wines.
Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. $$$$.
Most major credit cards.
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Cuisines
Italian
Bella Italia
Republica Arabe Siria 3285 (there is a second location at Cuba 1935 in Belgrano, phone 4788-5606)
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4802-4253
http://www.bellaitalia-gourmet.com.ar
Inconspicuously tucked into an upper-middle-class neighborhood near the Parques de Palermo, this
stylishly cheerful cafe has exceptional light lunch offerings using seasonal ingredients. Look for panini,
gnocchi, cannelloni, magnificent desserts and wine by the glass. Limited shaded sidewalk seating.
Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations recommended. $$-$$$.
Broccolino
Esmeralda 776
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4322-7754 or 4322-7652
http://www.broccolino.com
This place is famous for delicious, reasonably priced pasta dishes served in generous portions in an
unpretentious dining room. The spaghetti with caviar is especially popular. Other Italian favorites, such as
garlic chicken, polenta and lentil stew, are followed by complex desserts, if you can find room. It caters to
tourists, with English-speaking waiters, and dinner is served as early as 7 pm.
Daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Filo
San Martin 975
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4311-0312
http://www.filo-ristorante.com
Pizzerias are among the city's most conservative restaurants, but flamboyant Filo is among the most
extreme exceptions. It offers unusual toppings in a design-oriented environment owned by an Italian
expatriate. At lunchtime it gets the business crowd, but at night it attracts fashionistas, with music to
match.
Daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
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La Parolaccia
Alicia Moreau de Justo 1052
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4783-0200
http://www.laparolaccia.com
Don't be put off by the name, which translates to "the curse word." It serves exquisite Italian food—with
copious amounts of pasta and good wines—and has an atmosphere appropriate for both business and
nonbusiness meals. Its sister, La Parolaccia di Mare (just down the block), specializes in seafood. There
are seven other locations throughout the city.
Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations available. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
Siamo Nel Forno
Costa Rica 5886
Buenos Aires, Argentina
In a Latin American country heavily influenced by Italy and Italians, Buenos Aires is suprisingly not a hot
spot for good pizza. But this restaurant is an exception. The chef and owner, Nestor Gattorna, prepares
his pizza with the best quality ingredients, churning out greaseless, delicious pizza from a wood-heated
oven with remarkable consistency and speed. Don't miss this restaurant if you need pizza.
Daily for dinner. Reservations recommended. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
Sottovoce
Libertador 1098
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4807-6691
http://www.sottovoceristorante.com.ar
This is the fashionable place to eat first-rate pasta. Former President Kirchner was known to haunt this
classic Italian restaurant, which has locations both in a glamorous section of Recoleta and in Puerto
Madero. Traditional pasta dishes are done with great care, and the restaurant also offers excellent meat
and fish plates, as well as fine service.
Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations available. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Spanish
Jose Luis
Ave. Quintana 456, Recoleta
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Even the wine is from Spain at this beef- and pasta-free Asturian restaurant, which impresses patrons
with cool gazpacho, big servings of besugo a la sal (sea bream oven-baked in a salt crust) and hake
garnished with smoked ham and clams. If possible, leave room for a strawberry soup with yogurt mousse.
Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$-$$$$. Most major credit
cards.
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Museo del Jamon
Cerrito 8
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4382-4144
http://www.elmuseodeljamon.com.ar
Just off Avenida 9 de Julio, this restaurant pays homage to all kinds of Spanish prosciutto. Some
specialties are cochinillo (suckling pig) and tapas (Spanish appetizers), which are served at the bar. It
also has a very good wine selection. There is a second location is in Puerto Madero at Ave. Alicia Moreau
de Justo 2020.
Open daily for lunch and dinner. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards.
Oviedo
Beruti 2602
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4821-3741 or 4822-5415
http://www.oviedoresto.com
This elegant spot is renowned for the freshness and quality of its dishes, particularly the seafood. It also
has the dubious reputation as the most expensive nonhotel restaurant in town. Items range from exquisite
appetizers—try the goat-cheese croquettes—to classics such as paella and roasted goat. Excellent wine
list.
Open Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
Tancat
Paraguay 645, Retiro
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4312-5442
http://www.tancatrestaurante.com
Packed from midday on, this Spanish tasca has few tables, but porteno businesspeople bump elbows
happily for fixed-price lunches at the bar and tapas later on. The fish is usually a good entree, and the
jamon serrano (cured ham) makes an excellent appetizer.
Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $-$$. Most major credit cards.
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Seafood
Centro Vasco Frances
Moreno 1370, Monserrat
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4381-6696
http://www.rvascofrances.com.ar
French-Basque restaurant founded in 1895, located in the former ballroom of the Basque Cultural Centre.
Specialties are excellent traditional garlicky fish and seafood dishes, probably the best in Argentina. Try
mar y tierra made with two kinds of rice, one blackened with squid ink. Service can be slow.
Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Sunday for lunch only. $$$. Most major credit cards.
Steak Houses
Cabana Las Lilas
Ave. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4315-1010
http://www.laslilas.com/restaurant.php
This popular, upscale steak house raises all its beef on a ranch west of the city. You can order a tender
rib eye or well-prepared beef spare ribs, blood sausage, sweetbreads or pork flank steak, among other
favorites from the grill.
Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. American Express and Visa only.
El Obrero
Agustin Caffarena 64 (at Caboto)
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4362-9912
http://www.bodegonelobrero.com.ar
Local dockworkers, celebrities and tourists rub shoulders in the great social leveling of this much-loved
crumbling steak house decorated with Boca Juniors football memorabilia. The grill offers every cut you
can imagine—truly some of the best steaks in town. In winter, the soups are recommended. The wine list
is good, as are the classic Argentine desserts such as bread pudding and creme caramel with dulce de
leche. It's in a dicey area, so take a taxi.
Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner. $-$$. No credit cards.
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La Cabana
Alicia Moreau de Justo 380
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4314-3710
http://www.lacabanabuenosaires.com.ar
Run by the Orient Express group, this elegant place serves the swankiest, priciest steaks in town, treating
each piece of meat like a precious commodity. This old supper club was revamped into a temple to old-
style dining. Check out the baby beef, ogle the stuffed cows and grandiose furnishings, then insert your
bar code into a kiosk to learn the origin of the steak you just ate. Those wishing to take a turn at the grill
can join the chef for a master barbecue course.
Open daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards.
La Cabrera
Jose Antonio Cabrera 5099
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Phone: 4831-7002
http://www.parrillalacabrera.com.ar
The best parrilla in Palermo, and probably one of the best in town, though it's very small. Try the huge
bife de chorizo, which would cost you four times as much in North America, and wash it down with a
bottle of Malbec. Many other excellent cuts are available, all juicy and tender. Another house specialty is
provoleta de queso de cabra (grilled goat cheese), and the more adventurous should also try chinchulines
de cordero (small intestines of lamb) or the mollejas (sweetbreads).
Tuesday-Saturday for lunch and dinner, Monday for dinner only. Reservations required. $$$. Most major
credit cards.
Security
Etiquette
Although it derives its language and much of its heritage from Spain and Italy, Argentina reflects a wider
range of cultures than many of its South American neighbors. It also tends to be a bit more cosmopolitan,
adopting some of the customs and styles of Europe and North America. As a result, many visitors will find
that, with rare exceptions, most etiquette rules are similar to those they're familiar with.
Appointments—Set your business appointments at least a couple of weeks in advance, if possible. In
general, punctuality is practiced and expected in business, but more so of the guest than of the Argentine
business contact. Social events, on the other hand, almost always assume a start time at least 30
minutes after the time on the invitation. If possible, avoid business trips in January and February, when
many workers take their summer vacations.
Personal Introductions—A firm Western-style handshake is customary. Maintain direct eye contact.
Titles are important: If your acquaintance has a professional title, you will learn it when introduced; if not,
senor (male), senora (married female) or senorita (unmarried female) is appropriate. The title and the
person's last name should be used until you are instructed otherwise. Note that it is typical for a person to
have two surnames, one from the father and one from the mother. The father's surname will be given first
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during the introduction, and that's the name that is used to address or speak of the person. Thus, "Senor
Juan Guerra Fernandez" would be addressed as "Senor Guerra."
Negotiating—Business is about building relationships. Personal ties and contacts are important. Expect
small talk and the accompanying issues to precede business. However, initial contacts usually carry an
air of seriousness and formality. Expect to build a rapport over time. Your second, third and even fourth
meeting will likely remain formal, though friendly. If you have met in a personal context, the warmth of the
relationship is likely to increase more rapidly. Although the business world in Argentina remains male-
dominated, women are making significant progress.
Business Entertaining—Expect dinner to start late—often as late as 11 pm. Although the majority of
business meals occur at dinner, the business lunch is becoming more common; these are often extended
affairs that begin between 1 and 2 pm. People also meet at midmorning over coffee. Regardless of when
the gathering takes place, don't expect to make a lot of progress on a deal: Meals are considered a time
to build relationships, not to conduct business.
Body Language—Personal body space is close. It is common for participants in a conversation to
politely touch each other on the arm or back, and a light kiss on the cheek is customary, even after the
first meeting. Take your cue from your acquaintance. Do not stand with your hands on your hips, as this
seems overly bold and might imply a challenge. The act of yawning in public is considered rude, so be
sure to cover your mouth, turn slightly away from your hosts and apologize.
Gift Giving—Gift giving in business situations is common and appreciated. Fine, imported alcohols are a
good choice (Argentines pay a heavy duty on such items). Don't give imported wine, however, as it would
be considered a slight to the country's own vintages. In social settings, flowers or imported candies are
appropriate.
Conversation—Small talk is important. Soccer, culture, art, food, children and all things Argentine are
appropriate, with a few exceptions. In your first few conversations, avoid the subject of religion. Politics,
such as any remark about Eva Peron, the desparecidos, or the Falkland Islands conflict, is a risky topic,
so try to avoid the subject. Portenos are very proud of their city and culture (some would say to the point
of arrogance), so avoid direct criticism of Buenos Aires when possible.
Personal Safety
Violent crime is below levels common in the U.S. Buenos Aires is a big city, however, so take
commonsense precautions. Never show large amounts of money when making a purchase in the street.
Leave passports, tickets and valuables in the hotel safe. Never leave a purse, camera or shopping bag
unattended or hanging on the back of your chair in a bar or restaurant. Avoid any political demonstrations
you may encounter.
In most central residential and hotel areas, the sidewalks remain quite busy well past midnight, so tourists
are unlikely to find themselves on a dark and deserted street. Still, use common sense when walking in
some areas, and whenever possible avoid side streets late at night. Poorer areas, such as the La Boca
neighborhood, are best visited during daylight hours. Calle Paraguay, a central area with lots of pubs,
hotels and shops, is attractive to thieves after offices close. Winners at the floating casino in the port have
sometimes been robbed or worse as they walked or took cabs back to their hotels.
Muggings in taxis are an unfortunate reality, but they are much rarer now than they used to be. When you
need motor transport, you should hire a car service (remises) through your hotel or a reputable company
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recommended by someone you trust. When you go to a nightspot, ask the company that takes you there
to return and pick you up, or have the doorman call a service. Using a car service costs only a few pesos
more than flagging a taxi on the street, and it's worth the money.
With car services so reasonably priced, few tourists ever need to take a bus. The subway can be quite
convenient during busy traffic times, however, and travelers should keep their valuables tucked under
their clothing or grasped tightly to avoid urban pickpocket scams.
In an emergency, the number for the police is 111 (Spanish only); for medical aid it's 107 (Spanish only).
You may also contact the tourist police, Comisaria del Turista, which is open 24 hours (Ave. Corrientes
436). Phone 4346-5748. Toll-free 800-999-5000. http://www.policiafederal.gov.ar.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
No vaccinations are required to enter the country. Tap water is good in Buenos Aires, food is safe, and
sanitation standards are fine in reputable restaurants.
Most pharmacies are open weekdays and Saturday mornings. When they pull down their shutters, they
post addresses of pharmacies in the neighborhood that are supposed to be open on a rotating basis
during the weekend. All too often, you will find the posted pharmacies closed when you get there. Consult
your hotel's front desk staff for directions to a pharmacy that is open.
The top hotels have English-speaking doctors on call, although not necessarily on the premises. In
general, the free public hospitals and clinics have some English-speaking doctors on their staffs, but not
always in their emergency rooms. The hospitals have excellent doctors but are understaffed when it
comes to the enormous numbers of patients they must see, and they suffer from miserly funding. Hence,
you may be asked for a contribution to replace the medicine and disposables used. Private hospitals and
clinics are excellent, with first-rate English-speaking doctors.
People with health problems who speak no Spanish should learn at least a few key words—ambulancia
and socorro (first aid)—and carry on them the address of their hotel or the hospital where they think they
might have to be taken.
Hospital Britanico (phone 4309-6400; http://www.hospitalbritanico.org.ar) is a private hospital where
English is spoken, and Hospital Aleman (phone 5777-5568 for emergencies;
http://www.hospitalaleman.com.ar) is a private German hospital that has English speakers in the
emergency room. Free public hospitals include Hospital Argerich (phone 4121-0700;
http://www.hospitalargerich.org.ar) and Hospital Fernandez (phone 4808-2600;
http://www.hospitalfernandez.org.ar).
For free municipal ambulance service to a hospital emergency room (sala de guardia), dial 107 or 4923-
1052. There are 70 ambulances stationed throughout the city.
For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
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Disabled Advisory
Ease of travel for disabled people in Buenos Aires has improved somewhat since the arrival of modern
U.S.-based hotels, with their wide doors and specially appointed rooms and baths. Some older hotels
have added ramps and other amenities. Ramps have been installed on street curbs in town, and each of
the major bus lines has added a few low-floor vehicles with wheelchair bays and safety belts. New
subway stations have elevators for wheelchairs. Be advised, though, that the tiled sidewalks are in a
constant state of disrepair, even in the wealthiest neighborhoods.
Transportes de Discapacitados Motrices (TDM) provides transport in three special minivans that carry up
to three wheelchairs with companions. Offers airport pickup, city tours and other excursions, including
fishing. They speak English and Portuguese and operate 24 hours a day. Phone 15-4446-9883.
http://www.transpdisc.com.ar.
Facts
Dos & Don'ts
Do take a gift if you are invited to an Argentine's home for dinner, and do dress nicely—shorts are never
appropriate (unless you are a college student). In clothes-conscious Buenos Aires, they're not a good
idea on the street, either. Sandals are definitely out.
Don't expect Argentines to arrive punctually for social engagements. They'll probably be as much as 30
minutes behind schedule.
Do remember that grand churches are more than museums. Although women no longer have to cover
their heads or even shoulders, it's still polite to be conservative in dress.
Don't talk about international political matters. It's not a good topic in the best of circumstances, and many
Argentines still resent the U.S. government's lukewarm support for their country after the 2001 economic
collapse.
Do pamper yourself in a peluqueria (beauty salon). Their services are cheap and fabulous.
Don't order wine from any other country when in Argentina (unless in a fine French restaurant). Argentine
wine may not be the world's finest, but you will be told—unceasingly—that it is.
Do feel free to sit and people-watch in cafes after you've finished your coffee. This is a time-honored
custom in Buenos Aires, and servers expect it.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: Only a passport and proof of onward passage are required of citizens of
Canada, the U.K., Australia and the U.S. for visits of up to three months. Reconfirm travel document
requirements with your carrier before departure.
All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean,
Central and South America and Mexico.
Population: 12,988,000.
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Languages: Spanish.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic), Jewish.
Time Zone: 3 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-3 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Voltage Requirements: 220 volts.
Telephone Codes: 54, country code; 11,Buenos Aires city code;
Money
Currency Exchange
The Argentine peso is the standard currency, divided into centavos. Prices are written with a $ sign in
front of them, but this is for pesos. Anything listed in U.S. dollars should have "US$" in the price, although
this does not automatically mean dollars are accepted. In the more tourist-oriented areas, higher-priced
items are often listed in pesos and in dollars as a means of providing a comparison to shoppers, many of
whom are from outside Argentina.
Exchange booths and banks readily change foreign currency into pesos, so avoid risky black market
exchanges. ATMs are widely available along the avenidas (much harder to find in between, especially in
Palermo), malls, and some hotels and outside of office buildings. Some will provide money in either pesos
or dollars. Credit cards are universally accepted at shops, restaurants and large hotels.
Traveler's checks are used infrequently since the exchange process can be problematic outside the city,
and the exchange comes with an additional commission. The main American Express headquarters is on
the central Plaza San Martin.
Most banks are open Monday-Friday 10 am-3 pm. A few remain open until 4 pm. Banks don't close for
lunch. Private exchange booths in tourist areas are open until the shops close, usually 8-10 pm.
Taxes
Argentina applies a 21% value-added tax (called IVA) to most goods and services (books, medicines and
some foods are excluded). Purchases made with credit cards may have an extra 10%-15% tacked onto
the price, reflecting the high rates that credit-card companies charge local shops.
Some businesses may offer discounts for cash payments. Note that hotels also charge (or at least should
charge, by law) a tax of 21%. This is not always disclosed in the hotel's literature, so be sure to ask
before booking.
The process for getting an IVA refund can be complicated, so some people don't bother, but the refund
amounts can add up if you're doing a lot of shopping. (You'll probably find that stores in the Microcentro
are more accustomed to the process than stores in outlying areas.)
First, you have to spend at least 70 P at a shop that displays a "tax-free" sticker. The shop must give you
a special tax-free sales slip along with a Global Refund check, which a staff member must fill out,
together with an envelope with the address of Global Refund (in case something goes wrong at the
airport). At the airport, you show your purchases (so don't pack them inside your suitcase) along with the
sales slips at customs. They stamp the check, which you take to a Global Refund stall in the airport to get
your cash refund.
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At land border crossings where there are no such stalls to give you a cash refund, write on the back of the
customs-stamped check whether you want the money credited to your credit card or sent to you in the
form of a bank check. Then drop the postage-paid envelope into a mailbox. You should have the refund
within four weeks.
Taxes on goods when leaving the country are exempt up to 1,200 P, plus an additional 1,200 P if the
goods were purchased in a duty-free shop.
The airport tax for all flights is 127 P. There is also a 5% tax on the purchase of airline tickets purchased
within Argentina.
Tipping
In restaurants, tip 10% of the bill. Movie ushers and bus terminal porters get a 1 P tip, air terminal porters
2 P per suitcase. Cab drivers get no tip, though it is common to round up the fare to the next 0.50 P-1 P
amount. Add a few pesos for help with baggage. Tip bellhops and concierges at hotels when warranted:
A good rule of thumb is to tip in pesos what you normally would in dollars or euros at home.
Weather
We think the best time to visit Buenos Aires is late spring (November and December) or fall (March-May).
Forget a summertime visit: the vast majority of Argentines take their vacations seriously and the city is
largely empty from Christmas well into February.
Seasons in B.A. are exactly opposite of those in North America: Summer in B.A. is December-February
and winter is June-August. In recent years, however, late August and September have been
unseasonably warm and pleasant, too.
The climate seems increasingly to be melding into one long warm-to-hot season and one shorter cool-to-
cold season. Buenos Aires summers are hot (averaging 82 F/28 C) and can be oppressively humid,
though once in a while there might be a cool evening. Winters are mild (averaging 40 F/5 C), but there
can be at least a couple of very cold and wet weeks. Rain can occur any time of the year, often as
thunderstorms.
What to Wear
Buenos Aires is far more clothes-conscious than any other city in Latin America, which is saying a great
deal. The city is a dressy place, so businesspeople should wear suits year-round. But with the younger
crowd, shorts, jeans and sneakers are surprisingly common. Typical attire for adults in Buenos Aires
would best be described as "sophisticated, just shy of formal." Although women should avoid revealing
clothing if they don't want extra attention, clothing is no more modest there than it is in the U.S. or Europe.
In summer (the North American wintertime) women will want to take separates and a few dresses; a light
sweater or wrap is suggested to combat the air-conditioning. A casual jacket with slacks and short-
sleeved, collared shirts are fine for men. Leisure travelers with no social obligations will do best with nice
jeans (always pressed) or linen slacks, and T-shirts or short-sleeved shirts and a light sweater. Practically
nobody wears a hat in Buenos Aires, so sunglasses and lots of sunscreen will be a help. Although there
aren't any strict dress codes for visiting churches, showing too much skin is considered disrespectful.
In late July and August, you'll need a warm coat with a scarf and gloves, as well as heavy pants and a
warm sweater for informal occasions. Leisure travelers need a parka, a midweight jacket for warmer days,
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jeans, wool slacks, sweaters, hats and gloves. The rest of the winter, that new leather jacket you
purchased there will do just fine.
A lightweight raincoat and folding umbrella are also handy year-round.
Communication
Telephone
To place a call to Buenos Aires, you must first dial your country's international access code, followed by
the Argentine country code, 54, and then the Buenos Aires city code, 11. To dial a Buenos Aires number
from within Argentina but outside of the city, first dial 011.
The number of digits in area codes and phone numbers varies. Most phone numbers begin with 4. Cell
phones begin with 15, which is dialed before the number. Most toll-free numbers begin with 0800.
Most public phones operate with phone cards purchased at a kiosk; those accepting coins or tokens
(called cospels) are nearly extinct. Try to make your calls from a private phone center—a locutorio or
telecentro—which will be much cheaper than calling from your hotel. In these centers you are assigned a
closed booth where you sit and call your number. The phone has a meter you can read, and you pay for
all calls when you leave. If you want to make an international call, you may have to tell the attendant
before entering the booth. These phone centers also send faxes, and some provide Internet access.
There's no charge if you don't get through.
Nearly all phones in the city are direct dial. Dial 0 first for a domestic long-distance call; 00 for a foreign
country, and then the country code and number.
You can use prepaid calling cards (tarjetas prepagas), sold in most kioscos and small supermarkets, to
make local and international calls from public phones, but not locutorios. All cards have a scratch-off
panel, which reveals a PIN. You dial a free access number, the PIN and the number you wish to call.
Many cell phones (dual-band GSM 850/1900 Mhz) will work in Argentina (with expensive international
roaming charges), but check with your specific carrier. If you have an unlocked GSM phone from North
America, buy a prepaid Argentinean SIM card (tarjeta SIM) on arrival—rates will be cheaper than renting
a phone. You can top up credit by purchasing tarjetas de cellular at kioscos, supermarkets and gas
stations, or by carga virtual (virtual top-up) at locutorios.
You can also rent a phone at the airport from Phonerental (http://www.phonerental.com.ar), which also
delivers to hotels. This is only recommended for very short stays. If you stay a bit longer, you can avoid
the higher rates of a rental phone by buying a cheap basic phone with a SIM card included for around 175
P. You only pay for outgoing calls. Of the three main mobile phone companies in Argentina—Movistar
(http://www.movistar.com.ar), Claro (http://www.claro.com.ar) and Personal
(http://www.personal.com.ar)—Claro seems to have the best coverage.
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Internet Access
If you need to check your e-mail or surf the Web, visit almost any locutorio on main streets in the city:
There is one every block or two. Prices are extremely low, but connection speeds vary greatly. Look for
velocidad alto signs indicating high-speed connections.
Wi-Fi is becoming more widely available, especially in cafes, restaurants and bars. Most hotels rated four
stars or more now offer Wi-Fi in public areas and/or guest rooms, but they usually charge for it. Many
cheap hostels offer free Wi-Fi.
Mail & Package Services
Correo Central
You can mail letters and small parcels from the Central Post Office. Service is slower than in Europe or
North America, but on the whole better than in other Latin American countries. There are several other
locations throughout the city. Stamps are available where postcards are sold. Open Monday-Friday 8 am-
8 pm, Saturday 10 am-1 pm. Sarmiento 151. Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phone 4891-9191.
http://www.correoargentino.com.ar.
Newspapers & Magazines
The Buenos Aires Herald, the local daily English-language newspaper, can be found at all major
newsstands in the Microcentro area and in hotels. Its Friday "Get Out" supplement is a good place to look
for entertainment listings.
Newspapers and magazines in English and other languages are always sold at the newsstands at Florida
and Corrientes, Florida and Cordoba, and Florida and M.T. de Alvear (facing Plaza San Martin). Time Out
Argentina magazine is an excellent resource, available in English at newsstands. Major hotels stock
previous-day copies of the Wall Street Journal, Miami Tribune and International Herald Tribune.
Up-to-date information on restaurants and nightlife is also available at
http://www.whatsupbuenosaires.com.
Transportation
Air
Buenos Aires has two airports. Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), officially called Ministro Pistarini, 32
mi/50 km southwest of the center of town, handles most of the international flights (phone 5480-2500).
Jorge Newbery (AEP), also called Aeroparque, 5 mi/8 km northwest of the Microcentro, handles mainly
domestic flights. Phone 4576-5300. http://www.aa2000.com.ar.
The airports have no direct rail or subway links with the city center or with each other.
Taxi
Car services (remises) called by your hotel or restaurant are your safest option, but most of the taxis
plying the streets are also these same radio taxis. Look for a lighted libre (free) sign on the roof or in the
front window. The cars are new, and most have air-conditioning. Drivers charge 4.60 pesos to start and
0.52 P per 0.12 m/0.20 km and will wait for you for a fee. Your hotel can make arrangements for you, too.
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If you're going to take one of the city's black-and-yellow cabs, you'll have better luck flagging one down in
the street than boarding one at a taxi stop. Radio taxis are run by private companies that coordinate the
drivers. For a small extra charge, they'll pick you up at a specified address. Make sure the driver turns on
the taxi meter when you get in the vehicle. Drivers rarely speak English.
When handing a large bill to the driver, mention the size of the bill to avoid inconveniences or argument in
making change.
Reputable radio taxi companies include Annie Millet (phone 4816-8001); Eleven (phone 4807-6666); Mi
Taxi (phone 4931-1200); Radio Taxi Ciudad (phone 4923-7007); Radio Taxi Siglo XXI (phone 4633-
4000); and Remises REB (phone 4863-1226).
For More Information
Additional Reading
And the Money Kept Rolling In (and Out) by Paul Blustein (PublicAffairs).
The Argentina Reader: History, Culture, Politics by Gabriela Nouzeilles and Graciela Montaldo (Duke
University Press).
Borges: A Life by James Woodall (Basic Books).
Sin Patron: Stories From Argentina's Worker-Run Factories by Lavaca Collective, foreword by Naomi
Klein and Avi Lewis (Haymarket Books).
Tourist Offices
Argentina Central Office of Tourist Information
This office provides information on all of Argentina, though it's of limited use beyond the most basic
questions. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm. Santa Fe 883. Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phone 4312-2232.
Toll-free 0800-555-0016. http://www.turismo.gov.ar.
Buenos Aires City Tourism Secretariat
This organization provides literature and advice at sidewalk kiosks and offices throughout the city. Main
office is open Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm. Sarmiento 1551, Fifth Floor. Buenos Aires, Argentina. Phone
4372-3612. http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar.