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PASTORIO’S BASIC MEAT BRINE

Denny Arar spoke for many of us when she wrote: “I’d never heard of brining meat until Bob Pastorio posted his column on the subject. It’s become a hardy peren-nial of the list, reposted every year or so.” Here is Bob’s version, enough for a 3- or 4-pound piece of pork loin, a chicken (or chicken pieces), a 3- or 4-pound beef, lamb or veal roast.

1 quart water2 tablespoons sugar4 tablespoons salt1 tablespoon black pepper1 teaspoon thyme2 teaspoons oregano4 bay leaves, crumbled 4 cloves garlic, smashed2 tablespoons vinegar

Heat the water; add remaining ingredients. Bring to a low simmer, stir a few times, and remove from heat. Let cool.

Place the piece of meat or the poultry in a gallon freezer bag and pour the cooled brine over it. Squeeze out much of the air, put the bag in a container (to guard against leaks) and refrigerate. Brine poultry 24 to 36 hours; roasts 3 days or more.

For duck, goose and other oily birds, add 2 tablespoons ground ginger, a cup of soy sauce and 1⁄4 cup orange juice concentrate. Puncture duck all over with a fork, brine 3 or 4 days. Roast at 400°F for about an hour.

For chicken, add juice of a lemon and a tablespoon of rubbed sage to the brine.

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MEXICAN SMOKED CHILE MARINADE (FOR PORK TENDERLOIN)

From Stacey Akerstrom: I’ve used this marinade a number of times, and people always rave about it. It is fabulous. You can vary the heat level if you’re feeding wimps.”

Enough for two tenderloins

1 cup fresh orange juice1⁄4 cup fresh lime juice5 canned chipotle chiles, minced, plus 1 tablespoon of the sauce in the can4 cloves garlic, minced1 teaspoon freshly grated orange rind2 teaspoons dried oregano1 teaspoon cumin seeds2 tablespoons wine vinegar or more1⁄2 teaspoon each salt and freshly ground pepper, or to taste

Combine the orange juice and lime juice in a small saucepan; boil until reduced to 1⁄2 cup. Place reduced juice and remaining ingredients in a blender, and purée to a smooth paste, adding additional vinegar if sauce is too thick. Spread paste on the meat to be marinated. Marinate for four hours or overnight, then grill until inside is just pink, or bake for 30 minutes in a 350°F oven.

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DRY JERK SEASONING

Thomas McRae, of Australia, says this mixture is good to sprinkle on cooked or uncooked fi sh, vegetables, or snacks. To increase the heat, add more cayenne.

Yields 5 tablespoons

1 tablespoon onion fl akes1 tablespoon onion powder2 teaspoons ground thyme2 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon ground pimento (allspice)1⁄4 teaspoon ground nutmeg1⁄4 teaspoon ground cinnamon2 teaspoons sugar1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper1 teaspoon cayenne pepper2 teaspoons dried chives or green onions

Mix together all ingredients. Store in a tightly closed glass jar. It will keep its pungency for over a month.

When it comes to spices, quality and freshness count. Sources for such things include:

Penzey’s (general spices): www.penzeys.com

Mild to Wild Pepper and Spice Company (chile): www.wildpepper.com

The Chile Shop in Santa Fe, NM (chipotle chiles): 505-983-6080. They will send you a catalog.

Bueno Foods: www.buenofoods.com (1-800-95-CHILE)—Terry Pogue, Mark Stevens

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BACON SCALLION HORSERADISH MUSTARD

Yield: 3 cups

1 cup dry mustard1 cup red wine vinegar1 cup sugar1⁄2 cup finely chopped cooked bacon1⁄2 cup finely chopped scallion4 large eggs2 teaspoons dried tarragon1 teaspoon creamed horseradish

Mix the mustard and the vinegar in a non-aluminum saucepan; let sit 30 minutes for the mustard to dissolve. Whisk in the sugar, eggs, and tarragon. Cook over mod-erate heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture thickens and is very hot to the touch. Do not boil. Stir in the bacon and the scallions.

Immediately remove to a bowl or decorative glass jar and cool to room temperature. The mustard may be kept tightly covered in the refrigerator for several months.

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HORSERADISH AND GREEN PEPPERCORN SAUCE

This and the next three variations on horseradish sauce come from, respectively, Helen Rundell (who in turn credits Harrod’s Cookery Book), Terry Pogue (source of both the cream and cream dressing), and Mary Mizwa.

Yield: 1 cup

1 cup sour cream1 tablespoon freshly grated horseradish, or to taste2 teaspoons green peppercorns, crushed1 tablespoon lemon juice,Salt to taste

Combine ingredients and serve.

HORSERADISH CREAM

Yield: 1 cup

1⁄2 cup heavy cream, very cold11⁄2 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish1 tablespoon sherry wine vinegar1 tablespoon finely chopped chivesSalt and pepper to taste

In a small bowl, whisk together the cream, horseradish, and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in chives.

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HORSERADISH CREAM DRESSING

Yield: 11⁄2 cups

1 cup heavy cream1 tablespoon lemon juice1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar1 tablespoon red wine vinegar3 tablespoons grated horseradish1 dash salt1 dash sugar1⁄4 teaspoon prepared mustard

Whip cream; add lemon juice and vinegar gradually and stir in seasonings. Serve with tomato jelly, mxed greens, or cold meats.

LEONA GENERAL STORE HORSERADISH SAUCE

Yield: 4-5 cups

2 pints sour cream1⁄2 pint whipping cream5-6 ounces horseradishKosher salt and white pepper to taste

We strive for a strong sauce with a good bite. Mix all ingredients well until smooth, and keep very cold for at least an hour before serving. Add more horseradish if needed, until you get the tang you want.

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CHICKEN SATÉ SAUCE

In his tenure as a FoodWine member, Robert (Rob) Wells has checked in from Germany, France (Paris), Dublin and, most lately, from Australia. For the recipe here, he uses Thai chili powder, which is just coarsely crushed, dried red chiles.

Makes 11⁄2 cups

3 ounces unsalted peanuts1-inch piece green ginger, peeled and grated.1⁄2 cup mango or fruit chutney1⁄4 cup raisins1⁄4 cup sultanas3 tablespoons peanut butter1 teaspoon chili powder2 teaspoons curry powder2 teaspoons soy sauce1 cup waterSalt and pepper to taste1 clove garlic, crushed

Place all ingredients into a blender and blend on medium speed 1 minute, or until nuts are finely chopped. Place in a pan. Bring mixture to boil; reduce heat; simmer uncov-ered 15 minutes or until mixture is thick. Note: this sauce is used as both a basting and dipping sauce for chicken saté (broiled chicken on a skewer).

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CRAB SALSA

Poster Terry Pogue says “Here is a wonderful crab dip which I have made many times.… Although the original recipe calls for serving it with tortilla chips, I find them a bit messy so I buy those small phyllo shells and put them around the bowl of salsa with a small spoon for people to fill each bite. That way the phyllo cups don’t get soggy.”

Serves 8

1⁄2 pound crabmeat1⁄2 cup lime juice1 teaspoon grated tangerine peel2⁄3 cup chopped tangerine pieces1⁄2 cup seeded and chopped tomatoes2 tablespoons chopped purple onions1 tablespoon chopped cilantro1 tablespoon chopped Jalapeno pepper1⁄8 teaspoon salt

Combine ingredients in a bowl, toss gently. Cover and chill.

Note: Other cooked seafood, such as scallops, can be added.

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PAT’S CHILI SAUCE

Poster Pat Belanger adapted an old newspaper recipe to her own taste for this sauce. “It’s a beautiful color, and very chunky and sweet as opposed to spicy.

“My brother paid me to make a huge batch of it last fall for his father-in-law for his birthday. He had tasted some of my chili sauce at my brother’s house and wanted to know where it came from. All my kids steal it out of my cupboards too!”

Yield: About 5 1-pint jars

12 cups peeled Roma (plum) tomatoes, cut in eighths3 cups finely chopped celery hearts2 cups chopped onion1⁄4 cup pickling salt2 cups sugar1 cup cider vinegar2 tablespoons mustard seed1/16 teaspoon cayenne pepper1 medium green pepper, finely chopped1 6-ounce can tomato paste

Peel and chop tomatoes. Stir in chopped celery and onions and then sprinkle over pickling salt. Stir and let stand overnight. In morning, drain off excess liquid. Turn into kettle; add sugar, vinegar, mustard seed, and cayenne and boil for 45 minutes, stirring frequently. Add finely chopped green pepper and tomato paste and boil 15-30 minutes longer. Pour into sterile jars and seal.

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NINFA’S GREEN SAUCE

Posted by Chris and Dick Marksberry, this recipe comes from the late Houston restaurateur Ninfa Laurenzo. It is a delicious variation on a Southwestern theme.

Serves 20 (with chips, as an appetizer)

3 medium green tomatoes, coarsely chopped4 tomatillos, cleaned & chopped1 jalapeno pepper, stemmed & chopped3 cloves garlic, minced3 medium ripe avocados4 sprigs cilantro 1 teaspoon salt3⁄4 to 11⁄2 cups sour cream, to taste

Combine chopped tomatoes, tomatillos, jalapenos and garlic in a saucepan. Bring to a boil (tomatoes provide all the liquid), reduce heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until tomatoes are soft. Remove from heat and let cool slightly.

Peel, pit, and slice avocados; set aside. Place part of the tomato mixture with part of the avocados, cilantro, and salt in the food processor and process until smooth (do this in batches). Turn into a large bowl. Repeat until all is blended. Stir in sour cream, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate to blend flavors. Serve with tortilla chips.

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ITALIAN GRAVY

Gretl Yeager can’t remember the source of this won-derful sauce, but she’s changed the ingredients and adjusted the amounts enough that it is now her recipe. “The problem in our house is that it smells so good while it’s simmering that everyone passing through the kitchen grabs a hunk of bread for dipping,” she writes. “Conse-quently, I’ve never even seen a whole batch! Be careful not to let the bottom scorch; simmer on low. Keep an eye on it, and stir occasionally. Don’t add salt until after it has cooked down.”

Makes about 11⁄2 quarts

4 28-ounce cans whole Italian tomatoes, including the juice1 6-ounce can tomato paste1 quart chicken stock2 cups dry red wine1⁄4 cup olive oil2 yellow onions, minced10-12 garlic cloves, chopped2 celery stalks, with leaves, minced2 carrots, grated or finely chopped1⁄2 cup chopped parsley1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or to taste1 tablespoon crushed oregano2 teaspoons chopped fresh rosemary, or 1 teaspoon dried rosemary, crushed2 bay leaves2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, or 1 tablespoon prepared pesto 2 whole cloves1⁄2 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper2 tablespoons salt added gradually, to taste1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

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Pass the canned tomatoes and juice through a food mill to remove all seeds. Combine with tomato paste, chicken stock, and wine in a large pot.

Heat large frying pan and add the oil. Sauté next 4 ingredients in the oil until they just begin to brown. Add the frying pan mixture to the pot, along with all remaining ingredients. Bring to a light boil and then turn to simmer. Simmer gently for about 2 hours, partly covered, stirring often. Taste and adjust seasoning.

Remove bay leaves and cloves (if you can fi nd them!) before serving. Store in refrigerator, covered. It will keep for about 1 week. The sauce also freezes well.

When making any kind of tomato-based sauce (like Italian marinara), fi rst remove the seeds which, when cooked, impart a bitter fl avor. Do

this either by squeezing cut tomato halves until seeds are out; or cut into quarters and use a small spoon or your fi ngertip to slide the seeds out (some juice will come along).—Gretl Collins

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ROASTED RED PEPPER REMOULADE SAUCE

This is Mitch Smith’s interesting variation on a classic sauce which, he says, “is simply outstanding with sea-food, especially with crab cakes.”

Serves 8

1 hard-boiled egg yolk1 uncooked egg yolk1 teaspoon salt1 teaspoon prepared mustard1 cup oilPepper, to tasteJuice of 1⁄2 lemon2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce1 tablespoon anchovy paste3 tablespoons chopped pickles3 tablespoons chopped capers1 teaspoon chopped fresh chives1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley1⁄2 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon3 tablespoons chopped roasted red peppers (canned will do)1 clove garlic, crushed

Mash hard-boiled egg yolk well with salt and mustard in a bowl large enough to hold all ingredients. Using a wire whisk, add in fresh egg yolk until very well mixed. Slowly dribble in the oil to make a conventional mayonnaise and beat with the whisk. Add pepper and mix. Then add lemon juice to thin slightly. When all the oil is added, add in Worcestershire sauce and anchovy paste. Beat well to incorporate. Add crushed garlic and beat again. Add finely chopped ingredients and mix in well to fully incor-porate. Check for seasoning. Move to covered container and refrigerate for at least an hour to let flavors blend

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before serving. May be kept refrigerated for up to 5 days.

Caution: This recipe calls for a raw egg yolk, a potential source of salmonella. Only fresh eggs from a reliable source should be used. If you are concerned about the quality of eggs available to you, see substitute below us-ing commercial mayonnaise.

Alternative using commercial mayonnaise: Delete egg yolks and oil from recipe and substitute 11⁄4 cups com-mercial mayonnaise. Initially reduce salt and lemon juice amounts by two thirds, adding more if needed after a taste check. Proceed with other ingredients and amounts as described above.

If you often make gravy and sauces, make a bunch of roux and keep it on the counter to use as you need it. A pound of butter and maybe a

bit less than a pound of fl our. I do it by eye.

Melt the butter fully and whisk in the fl our for a thick, very slow-moving fl uid. Stirring, cook the roux for about 15 minutes over medium heat. I keep it in a stainless steel restaurant pan. Glass or ceramic work fi ne, too.

When I need to thicken a broth, I pick some roux up on a whisk and work it in. If it needs more, I do it again. And again until it’s what I want. I whisk room temperature roux into hot liquids.—Bob Pastorio

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SOUTH CAROLINA MUSTARD BARBECUE SAUCE

Chile-lover Mark Stevens contributed this recipe gleaned from another food list.

Yield: About 2 cups

2⁄3 cup yellow prepared mustard1⁄2 cup white sugar1⁄4 cup light brown sugar1 cup cider vinegar2 tablespoons chili powder1 teaspoon black pepper1 teaspoon white pepper1⁄2 teaspoon cayenne pepper4 drops Tabasco1⁄2 teaspoon soy sauce2 tablespoons butterJuice of 1 lime

Combine all ingredients except the soy sauce and butter in a saucepan and simmer 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in soy sauce and butter. May be used as a basting sauce for barbecue meat or as a condiment.

Note: Mark uses guajullo molido and ancho instead of commercial chile powder. He adds crushed red pepper to the cayenne, “and if I want it even hotter I use fresh ground pequins.” And for the Tabasco, he substitutes Louisiana-style hot sauce “and lots of it.”

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TRIPLE PEAR PURÉE

From Terry Pogue comes a different glaze for Easter Ham (see page 159). She says to “plan on major com-pliments.”

Yield: 3 cups

6 pounds Anjou pears, peeled, cored, and cut in eighths 1⁄2 cup water2⁄3 cup pear vinegar2⁄3 cup sugar2⁄3 cup Poire William or pear brandy

Simmer pears and water in heavy large saucepan until pears are very soft, stirring occasionally, about 40 min-utes. Purée mixture in blender in batches until smooth. Return to saucepan. Mix in vinegar and sugar. Simmer until reduced by one third and thickened to consistency of applesauce, stirring frequently, about 40 minutes. Mix in Poire William.

Note: This can be prepared 2 days ahead and refriger-ated. Serve at room temperature.

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PASTORIO’S LEMON CURD

Poster Terry Pogue says: “This has become one of our favorite treats. A little of Bob’s lemon curd spread on a croissant is pure heaven.”

Yield: About 1 cup

1⁄2 cup lemon juice1⁄2 cup sugar2 tablespoons butterGrated peel of 2 lemons (use the juice as part of the above amount of juice)3 egg yolks

Put the juice, sugar and butter into a double boiler over--not in--simmering water. Heat to about 180°F.

Whip the egg yolks and make a liaison: Take a couple tablespoons of the hot juice and whisk it into the eggs. Dump the egg mixture into the pan of warm juice and whisk to mix thoroughly. Stir often. It should thicken in a few minutes.

Remove from heat, pour/spoon into a bowl and put into the fridge to cool and set.

Notes: Bob writes: “Put a dash of orange liqueur in there, maybe a half-ounce or so. It will astonish you. Getting the zest is easy with a lemon zester that cuts the peel into small threads. Be careful not to get any of the white pith, which will make the curd bitter. Then cut the lemons and juice them for the juice in the recipe.”