AUGUST 16, 2009 FOOD/BE Michael C. Upton/SUNDAY NEWS PHOTOS Glazed Cinnamon Rum Bun “Where I go, I hope there’s rum!” — Jimmy Buffett, Volcano BY MICHAEL C. UPTON Sunday News Correspondent I t is the spirit of pirate legend, immortalized in the subculture of Jimmy Buffett; it’s the liquid essence of the Caribbean — and of today, Aug. 16.; National Rum Day! How the sugar-cane fermentation came to be honored with its own day is an enigma. Over the past few years, writers, webmas- ters and connoisseurs have obligingly celebrated the day, but they offer little light to shine on the origin of this “holiday.” Even the die-hards on the members-only message board at The Ministry of Rum (http://ministryofrum. com) pointed to articles calling the day’s beginnings a mystery. Efforts to gain some insight from Mount Gay Rum of Barbados — the self-proclaimed “rum that invented rum” — as well as the West Indies Rum and Spirit Producers Association were fruitless. Nevertheless, there is plenty of rum on the retail shelves, ranging in variety from light to dark to spiced to fruit-infused. So a dearth of information on how this particular holiday evolved does not lead to a shortage of inspiration on how to enjoy the worldly alcoholic bever- age. To celebrate National Rum Day, regardless of its incarnation, three local foodies put rum to task by creating special recipes for Sunday News readers. HAMILTON CLUB BAKER Brad Miller offered up a ScRUMptious Local food-and-drink pros prepare special recipes for today ... or any day! P-tini V-punch Please see RUM, page G7
Transcript
When it comes to dessert, I’m not a big fan of Death by Chocolate. I prefer something light, fruity and
somewhat less lethal. Any confection I tackle must also look pretty and be easy to prepare.
I found just the thing recently in a new cookbook I checked out of the Lancaster Public Library.
Charles Mattocks’ “Eat Cheap But Eat Well” includes a recipe for a dessert that’s not only inexpensive but relatively healthful and quite tasty — provided you like graham crack-ers.
This treat is best prepared at least eight hours and preferably a day before serving. My husband liked it better after 32 hours than after just eight. I can’t say how further aging might have improved it because, given that second chance, he ate it all up! It normally makes four generous servings.
Here’s my take on Mattocks’:
GRAHAM CRACKER FRUIT TORTE1 cup fresh berries, puréed in
blender7-8 ounces refrigerated whipped
cream/topping12 whole graham crackers (5-by-2Ö
inches)½ jar berry preservesFresh whole berries for garnish
Blend puréed fruit into a bowl of whipped cream/topping.
(I used blueberries; the book also suggests raspberries; and strawber-ries would work, as well. I used fat-free pre-whipped topping, but a purist unconcerned about cholesterol could whip up some heavy cream.)
Spread 6 crackers with a thick layer of preserves. (I used the all-fruit, no-sugar blueberry variety.) Spread 5
crackers with a thick layer of the fruit-cream mixture.
To assemble, place a preserve-covered cracker, preserves- side up, on a plate. Top it with a fruit-cream-covered cracker, fruit-cream side up. Continue to alternate, finishing with a pre-serve-covered cracker. Top that with the 12th cracker, a plain one.
Then, using two large spatulas, turn the slippery stack on its side. Spread all sides with fruit-cream.
Refrigerate at least 8 hours, prefer-ably overnight. Garnish with fresh berries before serving.
The graham crackers will be soft enough that a sharp knife will easily slice through, revealing contrasting layers of graham, jewel-toned pre-serves and pastel cream.
“Sunday Best” is a biweekly column that features the best — or favorite — recipes of Sunday News staff members. Write to Books pages editor Jo-Ann Green at [email protected].
�� August 16, 2009 suNDAY NEWs, LANCAstER, PA.FOOD/BEVERAGE
Michael C. Upton/Sunday newS photoS
Glazed Cinnamon Rum Bun
“Where I go, I hope there’s rum!”
— Jimmy Buffett, Volcano
By Michael c. UptonSunday News Correspondent
It is the spirit of pirate legend, immortalized in the subculture of Jimmy Buffett; it’s the liquid essence of the
Caribbean — and of today, Aug. 16.; National Rum Day!
How the sugar-cane fermentation came to be honored with its own day is an enigma. Over the past few years, writers, webmas-
ters and connoisseurs have obligingly celebrated the day, but they offer little light to shine on the origin of this “holiday.”
Even the die-hards on the members-only message board at The Ministry of Rum (http://ministryofrum.com) pointed to articles calling the day’s beginnings a mystery. Efforts to gain some insight from Mount Gay Rum of Barbados — the self-proclaimed “rum that invented rum” — as well as the West Indies Rum and Spirit Producers Association were fruitless.
Nevertheless, there is
plenty of rum on the retail shelves, ranging in variety from light to dark to spiced to fruit-infused. So a dearth of information on how this particular holiday evolved does not lead to a shortage of inspiration on how to enjoy the worldly alcoholic bever-age.
To celebrate National Rum Day, regardless of its incarnation, three local foodies put rum to task by creating special recipes for Sunday News readers.
Hamilton Club baker Brad Miller offered up a
ScRUMptiousLocal
food-and-drink pros prepare
special recipes for today ... or
any day!P-tini V-punch
Jam-packed with taste
Sunday Best
Jo-Ann Greene
Okay, I’ll admit it. When we walked by Onion’s Café, and saw that it was
an American diner-like joint that also served a few Korean dishes dur-ing the evening, I was
extremely skeptical. My husband thought we should give it a try, but despite my love for Korean cuisine, my reticence prevailed.
Several weeks ago, a Ko-rean friend from California came to visit. He’s a lovely older gentleman in his 60s who came to the U.S. when he was 16 years old. As we drove through Lancaster, I heard my husband say, “We have to take him to Onion’s!”
Before I could say any-thing, he was on the phone, “Hi, we’d like to come by for lunch. We have a Korean friend with us. When I say Korean, he’s FROM Korea. So I know you only have Ko-rean for dinner, but we only have time for lunch today. So
will you make something?” At precisely 12:13 p.m.,
we walked into Onion’s Café. It has a simple and func-tional feel, as feng shui would dictate.
Both full of spunk, the server and my guest spoke
Onion’s is a happy taste of Korea
Onion’s Café340 N. Queen St.Lancaster
396-8777 No Reservations
Lina Bierker
Please see RUM, page G7
Please see ONION’S page G7
CMY G 8
A HELPING HANDTO MAKE THE RIGHT DECISION.
Official HealthInsurance Providerof Penn State
You don’t have to face a difficult medicaldecision alone. Highmark is by your sidewith everything from basic informationto a personal health coach, availableonline or on the phone. You’ll get answersto your questions and facts about yourtreatment options. Health Care DecisionSupport. Another way Highmark givesyou a greater hand in your health. Tofind out more, call 888-286-8414 orlog on to highmarkblueshield.com.
Health Care Decision Supporthave a greater hand in your health®
Why buy when you can make your own.Mr. Steve, and 20 years of experi-ence, are coming to Lancaster.OPENING AUGUST 29th.
AREAS LARGEST INVENTORY FOR BREWING & WINE MAKING SUPPLIES
Going awaythis summer?
Have a great vacation!LANCASTER NEWSPAPERS, INC.
Before you head out of town ... make a decision about home delivery of your newspaper. You may pause delivery while you’re away, or request a Vacation Pak and have the newspapers delivered on your return. 7-Day Subscriber? View your daily editions uninterrupted on LancasterOnline.com.
Please notify Circulation Customer Service at least 5 days in advance of your departure.
Reach us at 717-291-8611, toll-free 800-809-4666,or [email protected]
boozy breakfast or high-oc-tane dessert with his Glazed Cinnamon Rum Buns.
melted½ cup cinnamon sugar3 ounces shortening½ cup dark rum
Combine first three dry ingredients in mixer. Add eggs and water. Using the dough-hook attachment, mix for 15 minutes on low. Add salt and mix for an additional 2 minutes. Set aside the dough, allowing it to double in size.
After it has risen, roll dough lengthwise on floured surface.
Brush with melted butter and sprinkle cinnamon sugar on top.
Hand roll the dough into a cylindrical shape and cut into 1-inch pieces.
Place the pieces in a shortening-greased 10-inch cake pan.
Proof [allow dough to rise one more time] and then bake at 350 F for 20 minutes.
Remove the buns from pan and place on a wire rack. Pour rum over the top while buns are still warm.
Chef MiChael Carson, of John J. Jeffries, put the restaurant’s local spin on rum by taking advantage of the seasonal peach. Carson’s savory Chilled Peach and Rum Soup can be sweetened by replacing peppers and crème fraîche with fruits and ice cream.
CHILLED PEACH AND RUM SOUP
8 cups roasted peaches1 cup roasted sweet
onion1 teaspoon rosemary½ cup dark rum2 cups sour cream2 teaspoons salt½ teaspoon pepper3 tablespoons brown
sugar½ cup water
Peel skins and remove pits from peaches. Roast peaches and onion in 350 F oven for 10 minutes.
After peaches and onions cool, add all ingredients to blender and purée until smooth.
Place in refrigerator to chill. Garnish (recipe fol-lows) and serve.
Garnish:1 small peach¼ cup of sweet onion1 teaspoon jalapeno
pepper3 mint leaves1 teaspoon lime juice
Salt and pepper, to taste1 tablespoon crème
fraîcheDice peach, onion and
jalapeño into small pieces. Combine in bowl with chopped mint and lime juice, salt and pepper. Mix well.
Place crème fraîche in center of soup and top with garnish mixture.
To wash iT all down, Ola “Karina” Michalska, of Vinola’s Restaurant & Bar, Leola, offers “feminine” and “masculine” versions of rum drinks, a twist on the tradi-tional pineapple martini and classic rum punch, respec-tively.
dients in standard shaker.Shake well and strain into
martini glass. Garnish with pineapple
slice and maraschino cherry.
V-PUNCH1½ ounces dark rum1½ ounces spiced rum1½ ounces fresh orange
juice1½ ounces pineapple
juiceCombine ingredients over
ice in a standard rocks glass.Stir and garnish with a
lime and pineapple wedges.n
��SUNDAY NEWS, LANCASTER, PA. AUgUST 16, 2009
Chilled Peach and Rum Soup
Michael C. Upton/Sunday newS
Cheers!
FOOD/BEVERA�E
Take out a new subscription for home delivery to the Intelligencer Journal/Lancaster New Era or Sunday News and use our automatically-renewing credit or debit card payments using our monthly EasyPay option. Your subscription is automatically charged to your card every month. The starting rates are very attractive for new subscribers and we’ll guarantee the rate for one full year!If you’re a current subscriber, converting your payment method to EasyPay will SIMPLIFY YOUR LIFE!
Take the easy way with
Monthly EasyPay paymentsare easier on your purse
& wallet than regular subscription payments!
Call 291-8611 or 800-809-4666 for details
No bills.
No checks.
No wasted
stamps
or
envelopes.
Calendar.LancasterOnline.com
MY KINDOF FUN!MY KINDOF FUN!
As the local leader in world, national and Lancaster County news and information, we’re always searching for innovations to bring our editorial content and advertising to you in ways that fi t your busy lifestyle. Our Lancaster Newspapers eEditions provides exact electronic replicas of the printed Sunday News and Intelligencer Journal/Lancaster New Era online… page-by-page… same news, advertisements and appearance.
While eEditions isn’t a substitute for our three award-winning papers, or for our highly-visitedLancasterOnline.com website, we think you’ll enjoy its many added conveniences. And eEditions is available FREE of charge to our 7-day newspaper subscribers.
CONVENIENT… stories don’t “jump” to a different page. EASY-TO-READ… enlarge text, photos and ads to enhance reading. CONNECTED… click on links to your favorite advertisers. QUICK… jump to any section or page with a single mouse click. TIME-SAVING… keyword searches and many other easy features. TIMELY… each day’s edition is online as soon as it’s printed. EFFICIENT… all published stories are listed by page and section. COMPACT… holds 2 weeks of previous issues you can check at any time.
• Want access to eEditions without a newspaper subscription? It’s available for only $4.95 a month. • Try eEditions by taking a free, 2-day “test drive.”• Go to www.LancasterOnline.com and click on eEditions. Follow the instructions to set up your access. You’re going to love it!
Exact same newspaper, with web-friendly convenience!
Continued from �8
Rum:
in Korean, with him trying to figure out what he should order. When she walked away, he explained that “I asked how the Korean food was. She said that it wasn’t as good as Philadelphia, but it’ll do.”
Hilarious.A traditional Korean meal
starts with several small dishes, called banchan, to whet the appetite. Call them the tapas of the pickled food
world. Kimchi — spicy, fermented napa cabbage — is always a staple, as are other pickled vegetables. At Onion’s Café, you get a smat-tering. They were average, but they held true to tradition.
The hubby ordered Bulgogi ($10.99), a marinated, thinly sliced beef that is best eaten at a traditional Korean BBQ where the hot stone grill is placed in the middle of the
table, for real-time grilling, by you! When it’s not, it’s probably pan-fried, and has the potential of coming to the table overcooked and dry, And that’s what happened with his Bulgogi. While it retained deliciously subtle sweetness, the dryness was disappointing.
My friend and I each ordered the Bi Bim Bap ($9). “Bi Bim” means “mixed,”
and “Bap” means “rice.” So you get a mixed rice bowl. What are you mixing? On top of a bed of hot white rice, a colorful array of vegetables and protein are presented in sections. Oh, you have to do the mixing yourself.
Of the vegetables, blanched spinach, bean sprouts, shiitake mushrooms, and marinated fern stems are the usual suspects. There is a
section of tender marinated beef, thinly sliced and most likely pan-fried. It’s slightly sweet . Then an egg, cooked over-easy, is gently placed on top of it all. The coup de grace, though, is the Gochu-jang — the soy-chili paste that comes on the side. Scoop as much as you’d like on top of everything, and then just
start mixing away.When my friend took the
first bite of his, we gawked ex-pectantly. He closed his eyes and declared, “Not bad!”
Me? I had to admit, that dish was pretty darned good.
Write to Sunday News restaurant critic Lina Bierker at [email protected].
Continued from �8
Following are results of inspections for Lancaster city restaurants, grocery
stores and other establish-ments that sell food, conducted by the Lancaster City Environ-mental Health and Protection Unit June 30-July 28; 291-4707 or 291-4714.
Listed are the names and locations of the establishments and inspector comments con-cerning health-code violations or compliance.
A&J Supermarket, 451 E. King St. Replace ceiling tiles. Repair electrical socket. Much improvement noted.
All City Foods, 809 E. Orange St. Refrigerator in truck is approved for use. Hand sanitizer in use and sepa-rate cutting boards on site. Gloves in use. Three-bowl sink. All is in order and up to code.
Auntie Anne’s No. 2, upper level, Park City Center. Kiosk is very clean and well-maintained; no violations.
Bird’s Nest, 10 S. Prince St. Estab-lishment is clean and well-maintained.
Brickyard, 415 N. Prince St. Estab-lishment is in good condition.
Border’s Book Shop and Coffee Bar, 1509 Plaza Blvd. Provide sani-tizer pail on front counter area when open for business.
Burger King, Park City Center. New establishment. Food safety certified. OK to begin operation.
Checkers, 300 W. James St. All temperatures within required range, as per code. Two on staff are food-safety certified.
Cosmos Bar & �rill, 464 Manor St. Outer premises need to be cleaned. Clean up parking lot. Open beer bottle was by car being repaired in lot.
CVS No. 66, Park City Center. Pre-packaged food items and dairy items for sale. Cases clean and well-organized.
Family Dollar Store, 23 S. Duke St. Pre-packaged dairy products for sale as well as frozen pre-packaged items. All temperatures OK.
Fast Lane, 14 S. Prince St. Date and label all meat and cheese prod-ucts in deli.
Frank’s Place, 454 New Holland Ave. New establishment, ready to open after final cleaning.
�allo Avery/Brendee’s Café, 449 W. Lemon St. Hand sink obstructed. Kitchen in order and clean. Bar area well-maintained.
J&K Supermarket, 545 New Hol-land Ave. Pre-packaged food items and dairy products available; no violations.
Jasmine Smoothie World and Bubble Tea, Park City Center. Kiosk is very well-maintained; food safety certified.
Kegel’s, 551 E. King St. Tem-perature logs maintained. Shellfish logs available. Very well-maintained establishment; five on staff are food- safety certified.
Kelsey’s Pub, 14 Broad St. Provided screen on door. Bar sinks set up with sanitizer as required. Bar is in good order.
Kianny �rocery & Deli, 76 Howard Ave. Date and label meat and cheese products. Purchase sanitizer and test strips. Hand sink obstructed.
La Cocinata Cubana, 322½ N. Queen St. New business; OK to operate mobile unit on South Prince Street.
Lancaster Brewery Co., 302-304
N. Plum St. Provide sign at hand sink to remind employees to wash hands. Provide scoop with handle in flour. Clean the floor fan grill. All tempera-tures good; kitchen looking good.
Lancaster Farm Fresh, Central Market. New stand in operation. Stand is clean and organized.
Los Muchachos, 158 S. Queen St. Clean and organize area not in use.
McDonald’s, 545 N. Franklin St. Store is very clean and maintained.
Qdoba Mexican �rill, Park City Center. Keep scoops out of ice; cor-rected on site.
Q’s Looms, Central Market. New market stand. OK to operate.
Superstar �rocery Store, 454 N. Queen St. No violations; deli no longer in operation.
Spyro �yros and Salads, 241 N. Queen St. Clean the rear of outer premises and maintain. Painting to oc-cur throughout establishment. Signs in bathroom to remind employees to wash hands.
V&E Mini Market, 239 E. Juniata St. Remove crates from entrance on side of building. Provide lids on trash cans.
•The following sTands were inspeCTed aT The lanCasTer puerTo riCan fesTival:
La Cocina. All in order. Puerto Rican Committee. Very
well-kept.The Rib House. No violations.�1� Italian. Stand is n very good
order and well-kept. Wings & Things. ServSafe certi-
fied; all code regulations in place.n
Onion’s: Bringing the flavor of Korea to Lancaster
City Food ServiCe inSpeCtionS
It is about two months before harvest and Frank Hewitt has no buyers
yet for any of the Cabernet Sauvignon on his 17 acres in Calistoga, Calif.
Frank’s fruit equates to about 4,000 cases of premium wine that would sell for at
least $50 a bottle. But with sales of all such wines flat as a table, his tale is far from unique. Indeed, it’s the same story around the state.
The weakened economy
that has buyers trading down to lower-priced wine has changed the market for wine grapes 180 degrees. Some industry analysts say that a good portion of the fruit, in even prestige locations such as Napa and Sonoma, may go
