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© 1872 evening gown by Luca and his students at the Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia in Rome
Secrets of the Victorian Corsetmakers LUCA COSTIGLIOLO ~ SCHOOL OF HISTORICAL DRESS ~ LONDON, UK
Luca discovered as a child that people in the 19th century really did look like
the paintings of the time. Tailors and dressmakers transformed the body
into the fashionable silhouette with padding and corsetry.
, ie original antique
garments, so that he can understand how the corset really worked. Each
time he takes some technique from a real antique garment and uses it, he
feels that the quality of his work improves. The historical technique always
ends up being easier and more effective, because back in the day they
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found the best technique to get the result they wanted. Makers always had
to find quick and easy ways that just worked without struggle, because
sewing has always been so underpaid.
razy that some modern makers are snobbish about the
relevance of historical corsets to our modern corsets, because this was a
moment in history when all the women of the Western world were wearing
corsets, whatever age or status. The corset was the bra of the time think
of how sophisticated bra technology has become in the present day, due
to sheer demand and competition between brands! Such high technology
and that s exactly as it was in the 19th century with corsets. There was so
much innovation throughout the 19th century patents show scores of
continual improvements to every aspect of the corset because there was
so much competition among makers, and such demand for improvement
and innovation. It seems obvious that surely there is something to learn
from a period when everyone was wearing them.
Some construction techniques were fairly universal, and others were
personal - hundred and thousands of private makers all had their own
methods and secrets and techniques, just as we modern makers do today
in fact, Luca is always on the lookout not just for machine made, mass
produced corsets likethe Symington collection, but original corsets made
by bespoke makers.
We should all look more closely at historical corsets and learn from them,
because most corsets today are obviously based on the late Victorian
corset. Even the most unlikely fetish PVC corset clearly takes its ultimate
inspiration from that part of history.
bod different entity from the Victorian
body shape is nonsense in L in the 19th century
corsets for all shapes and sizes were available long waisted, short
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waisted, stout figures, petite figures, etc, etc. One pattern may not fit
you, but another might, and this has been shown by makers in the
Foundations Revealed community, who have made up original Symington
company patterns (now available online) and sometimes found that they fit
like a glove with minimal or no alteration. You just need to make similar
adj for any pattern to fit a particular body, just
like adjusting a modern pattern if you are short waisted, say. ot like
the human ribcage has changed. The way the joints of the body are
arranged has been the same for over 2000 years; to look at an Ancient
Greek or Roman statue is to see the shape of a modern athlete!
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© 1872 corset by Luca Costigliolo
This corset is three dimensional even when it sits on a table. It s like a
sculpture, moulded on the body. The corset has to fit the body and be
comfortable, but it has to be the right silhouette for the period if a
historical silhouette is the aim.
Details of his c usually do today:
• The diagonal bones at the centre back top are there so that the back
of the corset does not sit away from the body when the wearer sits
down.
• It is made of two surprisingly lightweight layers, no fusing, just cotton
sateen and one layer of thick duchesse satin, and synthetic
whalebone.
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• The curvy tummy is a feature in the 19th century. The curve is made
by manually bending the busk into a curve. The fashionable tummy
only becomes flat in 1899/1900 which is considerably less
comfortable to wear! But the Victorian c
you built into the patterns
busk into a curvy shape.
• Flossing has two practical functions keeping the fabric taut from
(the
bone is pushed firmly into the channel and the flossing is tightly sewn
to keep that tension on the bone). Flossing also protects the ends of
the bones from poking through the fabric on a corset made of lighter
fabrics.
• Most techniques being used and experimented with today have their
origin in the 19th c internal boning channels, external boning
© 1872 corset by Luca Costigliolo
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© 1862 evening gown by Luca and his students
at the Centro Sperimentale di Cinematografia in Rome
1862 corset and gown
This outfit demonstrates that even a modern body can be turned into the
fashionable shape of the time the padding and corset work together to
create the shape. As stated before, the body is transformed into the
fashionable silhouette by the tailor or dressmaker.
This is a principle that has been forgotten in our era. Everyone can wear
what they want now; the 1980s was the last time that there was an artificial
fashionable shape, and the clothes turned you into that shape. Shoulder
pads were everywhere, and high waisted trousers with deep pleats made
even men ps round. Jackets had big shoulders and short sleeves but
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this that when our descendants look at the clothes in 100
years that they should assume that everyone in the 80s had huge shoulders
and short arms! The clothes were creating the shape
historical clothes from further back. Victorian clothes were not for tiny
people, as is often assumed the clothes were much tighter fitting than
ours, like a second skin. They just look small to us because almost nothing
we wear today is so tight. Think of skinny jeans they look so tiny off the
body,
The padding in this gown is at the top and side of the bust, quite thick, but
there is none at the hips because the model is wearing a huge 1860s
crinoline. The padding is there in 80% of extant 1860s bodices Luca has
seen. He used padding the same as it was used in
the model gets the same result, looking like a fashion plate of the era!
Luca has made this skirt with pockets all skirts had pockets every dress
he has seen from the past had them, contrary to popular belief!
The crinoline has a very thin cotton tape as a waistband because a small
waist was so important to the Victorians. There must be no bulk there.
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© 1862 corset by Luca Costigliolo
The 1862 corset
• The whole front panel of 1860s corset is cut on the bias, but
the backing for the busk is cut on the straight.
• I a one layer corset of coutil.
• The hip piece is also on the straight. It wrinkles a bit in this area, but
because the bones stop at the waist. The crinoline goes over it,
so this is not an issue.
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• The large front panel has slashes for large bust gussets that cup the
breasts. A common mistake is to make the gussets too small
(perhaps because everyone is l , not at
the real thing ?)
• A drawstring at the top edge pulls it in slightly so that it fits snugly.
The myth of the strong corset
Yes, you can make a corset strong, but Luca wants to dispel the myth that
a corset has got to be as strong as possible
ot to be a nice shape, and stitched in a strong manner,
have to be strong and hard an
technique, whereas the range of corsets is so great. Lots of people are
starting to work with bobbinet but they still get hung up on the idea that a
corset has to be strong. There are no hard and fast rules - do what works
for you - but if the pattern fits well, have to be armour! It can still
give support and a great shape
Modern corsets and historical corsets
There are many techniques in Victorian corsets that make sense to use now
in modern corsets to make them work better and make them easier to
make. Modern fashion designers look to the history of fashion as a
sourcebook of technical ideas on cut and construction why not us?
Modern and historical are not two separate areas of corsetmaking;
continuum. One is an extension of the other.
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How long should an everyday corset last?
Although he did wear some two layer corsets, Luca tended to wear one
layer corsets
The one layer corsets were always his favourites, especially when working
at the Globe Theatre for 48 hours straight! Lightness is a thing in Victorian
corsets because it s more comfortable to wear.
How long they should last depends on what they are made of and how
they are stitched. A one layer corset of coutil with external boning channels
lasts very well. lso depends what you wear on
top, eg wear of the way the
jeans rub against the corset. He had some summer corsets of bobbinet that
lasted one season only.
If wearing them every day, you really must have multiple corsets.
Like shoes, you must alternate them, and then they last much longer. From
a historical clothes perspective, a corset cover worn on top of a corset
under other clothes helps a lot to preserve the corset. This is why they
wore them, and a chemise underneath to absorb sweat, which would
weaken the corset if it was worn next to the skin.
How do you clean a corset? Or should you?
wash his corsets - this is why t to wear a chemise
and corset cover the latter is not compulsory, but it helps.
External boning channels can get grubby, and can be cleaned with a pencil
eraser. grandmother advised using the soft white part of a loaf of
bread, compacting it into an eraser and using that. Spirit on a cotton bud
can be useful for stains, but you
advised, very damaging. Spraying with vodka is good for odours, but not
usually required when wearing a chemise.
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for 1950s girdles worn on the
skin, a water and vodka solution can help remove odours. But if
a really dirty silk corset, in trouble, this may be the end of its life!
How was the bend shape achieved in 1900-
1908?
Was it the corset that forced the body into the famous tipped-forward
shape? Not really contemporary books and magazines of the period
advise fashionable women how to stand, indicating that it was more about
adopting the posture than the corset; the corset can only do so much.
They used boned bust improvers to create bulk at the chest, and a little
padding on the back of the hips to enhance the bottom. These helped
create the shape too, so it was not so much the corset forcing it. Hundreds
of articles in contemporary magazines instruct women to pull their
shoulders back and push the bust and bottom out. It was a clear indicator
of how fashionable women should
Not everyone wore S-bend corsets, some stayed in their older garments,
but the silhouette was an optical illusion, even in this period. Luca can still
do it all with pads today in his film and TV work!
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© Sliver Thistle by Royal Black
Adjusting your corset patterns BARBARA PESENDORFER ~ ROYAL BLACK COUTURE & CORSETRY ~ VIENNA, AUSTRIA
the mock-up of their cor
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Instead of cutting the mock-
measurements, why not look closely at your body and the pattern and
make some adjustments to the pattern first? Working on the pattern
before you mock it up is more intuitive than you might think, and it may do
a lot of the heavy lifting for you, so that the mock up becomes much easier
Look at the body shape and proportions first of all.
• Bust: cup size, volume and distance between breasts?
• Waist and torso: hourglass/athletic/fuller figured?
• Hip shape: flat, curved, is the volume on the back or at the sides?
• Look closely and take notes
Measure the front and back of the body separately a woman with small
breasts and a large back could have the same overall bust measurement as
a small framed woman with large breasts, and you need to notice those
proportions, not just the overall measurement. Compare the back and front
measurements to the measurements of the pattern pieces
to see where you can already make some adjustments to make the pattern
better match the shape of the body.
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© Royal Black push up effect
Bust adjustments
• Y
Barbara often uses three panels over the bust area for even a
standard size figure.)
•
be done by shifting the bust point and the swell of the bust upwards
a little try 1.5cm - and perhaps also opening the pieces a little wider
.
• Correspondingly, a large bust can be shifted downwards a little by
moving the curve of the bust down a little at each panel edge.
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© Royal Black adjusting the waist for an athletic figure
Waist adjustments
• much, so you may need to
adjust the lines at the waist outwards, to give a larger waist with less
but the back panels also might be a good place to add a little at the
waist, because a too-tight corset can pinch the nerves there.
• For a fuller figure you may be able to do the opposite and take the
waist area in. The fuller the figure, generally speaking, the greater
.)
• If you or your client is new to wearing corsets, you might want to
stick with a standard shape at the waist. These adjustments are more
for an experienced wearer of corsets who can draw from their past
experience to know what they need in more detail than a new
wearer.
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© Royal Black adjusting for fuller hips
Hip adjustments
• You can reduce or expand the panels at the hips according to your
• You can also pad the hips to fit the corset if the wearer wants a more
pronounced hip curve than s/he has naturally, eg for the drag queens
whom Barbara sometimes works for.
• A spoon busk can be useful for round bellies.
•
little to accommodate the extra movement of flesh.
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© Royal Black adjusting for protruding ribs
Protruding ribs
• Some people find that a corset digs into their ribs at the front you
can increase the size of the panels in this area to give the wearer a
little more room. Some people prefer this look from a design
perspective.
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© Royal Black slashing the pattern and spreading apart for a longer underbust-to-waist measurement
Vertical adjustments
• Find the underbust line and the waist line on the pattern, and notice
the distance between those two lines. Compare that to your own
underbust to waist measurement (measure at your side). If the
measurements differ, you can cut the paper pattern horizontally
between the two lines and either spread the two halves apart or
overlap them to match your measurement, then smooth out the lines
at the sides of the panels.
• Watch out for the length of the corset at the front sit in a chair in
.
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© Royal Black adjusting for a sway back (lordosis)
Sway back
• The centre back of a corset pattern is traditionally a straight, vertical
line, but this rule can be broken for a sway back. You can either take
a horizontal dart out of the centre back panel at the waist, as some
makers do, or just give more room at the top back and side back at
the same time as curving the back edge, so that the back of the
corset curves in a way that matches the exaggerated curve of the
back.
In all cases, use your intuition
the curves look neat and even?
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© Royal Black mock ups of various designs
Making creative patterns out of a well fitting basic pattern
draw new
• the shape of the top and bottom edge,
• the degree of plunge at centre front (you may need to curve the
centre front panel inwards to prevent gape)
•
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© Corset & Jewellery by Vanyanis ~ Makeup by Kim Clay Artistry
Photo by WeNeals Photography and Retouching
Working with fabric layers ~ MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA
Luca may prefer to wear his one layer corsets, but modern makers like
light or slippery fabric that would never normally be suitable for a corset.
So she uses that fashion layer, interfaces it, and backs it with a layer of
coutil to make it work.
How Lowana works with two layers:
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• Essentially, she stabilises the fashion layer with interfacing, layers the
coutil panels under the corresponding fashion fabric panels, and
treats the two layers as one when sewing them together into a
corset.
• She doesn't usually fuse the two layers together unless it's a really
slippery fashion fabric.
• tried making the whole coutil layer, adding boning channels
and then layering a whole floating fashion layer over separately, but
it wrinkled and pulled. Once she started matching the layers together
as individual panels, treating them as one and then sewing them
together, it got a lot easier.
• The only time it does work to make the whole coutil layer of the
corset and the whole fashion layer and then sandwich them together
is with stretch fabrics.
Preparing the fabric
• Prepare the fashion fabric and fuse *before* cutting
• Look for a slightly stretchy, fabric-like knitted interfacing, not the
papery stuff
•
trying to make any fabric behave as beautifully as silk duchesse
• She likes to use a fashion fabric with a reasonable weight/hand like
Thai silk.
• Don't cut the fabric, cut the interfacing and then fuse the pieces
together, they will stretch and pull out of shape. Fuse the whole
piece of fabric to the whole piece of interfacing, and then cut your
pieces.
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© Vanyanis bridal corset, close-up
Roll pinning demo
• Lowana like to press her seam allowances one way or the other, not
lan for which way all the seam
toward centre front or
centre back? Lowana likes them to point to centre front because
• Draw in seam allowances with chalk pencil, 1cm at one side and 2cm
at the other side of each piece, and pin the layers together. The 2cm
seam allowance should be at the side of the panel that will eventually
have its seam allowance folded back, and the 1cm seam allowance at
the side that will sit flat when the seam allowances are pressed flat.
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© Lowana O Shea s method of planning seam allowances for roll pinning,
with boning channels beside (not on) each seam
• Sew a boning channel directly down the centre between the marked
seam allowances to hold the layers there before sewing any seams
( starting in the center of the
fabric and working outwards). The difference in the seam allowances
ensures that the centre boning channels are evenly spaced even
channels go *next* to the seams, not on top
of them (see sketch above).
•
baste down the centre with silk thread.
• On rap the edges
around a ruler and pin, then stitch in place in the seam allowance.
fashion fabric ends up about 2mm smaller than
the coutil at the edge.
• Sew the seams as normal.