Section 3 Quality, General Product Safety and Testing...

Section 3 Quality, General Product Safety and Testing Manual

Contents:

3-1: Animal Quality Policy

3-2: Risk Assessment Form

3-3: Broken Needle Control and Metal Contamination

3-4: Sealing and Approval Process

3-5: Product Testing Tables

Table 1: Woven Fabrics – coats, jackets & fashion outerwear including linings

Table 2: Woven Fabrics – trousers, shorts, skirts, dresses, blouses & shirts including linings

Table 3: Denim

Table 4: Knitted Fabrics, Fleece & Jersey wear

Table 5: Knitwear

Table 6: Swimwear & Beachwear

Table 7: Nightwear

Table 8: Underwear

Table 9: Technical Clothing (skiwear)

Table 10: Socks & Hosiery

Table 11: Hats, Scarves, Gloves

Table 12: Towels

Table 13: Fashion Bags, Rucksacks & Luggage

Table 14: Belts

Table 15: Purses & Wallets

Table 16: Footwear

Table 17: Water Bottles & Lunch Bags

Table 18: Pencil Cases, Phone Covers & iPad Covers

Table 19: Watches

Animal Supplier Manual October 2019 V5.0 – Section 3 – Quality, General Product Safety & Testing Manual Page 1

3-1 Animal Quality Policy This section concentrates on the quality management of appearance, body fit, performance, fitness for purpose and the safety of product supplied to Animal. Animal has an obligation to ensure that all of its products which are offered for sale comply with the current EU Directives and relevant European and British Product Standards. Under the Terms and Conditions of trading with Animal, suppliers confirm that any products provided to Animal are in full conformity with Animal’s stated requirements, fit for the intended purpose of design and development and prevailing legislation and acknowledged industry codes of practice and provide Animal with supporting certification or declarations of conformity when requested. Animal has also provided some guidance for suppliers on prevailing legislation (see section 3-4). The legislation and directives are constantly being amended and updated and it is the responsibility of the supplier to ensure that it keeps up-to-date with all directives that affect the product that the supplier produces for Animal. Animal approval relies on Quality Assurance, and a right first time approach. The submission of samples and test results to Animal for approval when requested is mandatory.

What do I need to do as a Supplier to Animal?

Suppliers must complete the Declaration of Conformity document (section 2-8)and Code of Conduct Declaration (Section 2-9) confirming that products provided to Animal are in full conformity with the stated requirements and prevailing legislation and acknowledged industry codes of practice.

Suppliers should familiarise themselves with Animals stated requirements for approval of product.

Suppliers must be clear on what is being asked of them, as stated in this Supplier Manual.

Suppliers are obliged to consult Animal if they do not understand what is being asked of them or they have insufficient information to achieve ‘right first time’ sampling.

Suppliers must make sure that all staff who influence Animal sampling and production are adequately trained and experienced and are fully aware of the requirements set out in this Supplier Manual and are kept up-to-date with all future amendments made.

Suppliers must have access to all the standards and directives related to their product group and ensure knowledge and understanding of the requirements.

Suppliers must establish links with Animal approved testing labs to ensure they are kept up-to-date with any changes to existing laws or directives which affect their product area. Please refer to the Appendix detailing the current list of approved testing agencies.

Suppliers must ensure that any sub-contractors used must be aware of and understand the requirements and obtain declarations of compliance from those suppliers. Sub-contractors may only be used with the written approval of the Head of Production.


A Risk Assessment procedure must be put into place: (Risk Assessment Form part 3-2)

This is a thorough evaluation of the potential hazards to an end user, resulting from the design, construction, materials or components of a garment/ product.

This analysis should identify potential risks of a product relating to safety and where necessary, identify and document all actions required to eliminate these risks. Potential hazards may include tripping, slipping, falling, choking, induced vomiting, suffocation, strangulation, entrapment, lacerations, tourniquet effect, restricted blood circulation, restricted vision or hearing.

Each potential risk needs to be considered and actions taken to eliminate or minimise the risks.

Risk assessment must be a continuous process through all stages of product development and applied to every style to make sure that any changes made during the development or approval process do not compromise the product’s safety.

The presentation of the product, the labelling, any warnings and instructions for use and disposal and any other indication or information regarding the product must also be considered.

A Due Diligence programme must also be in place:

To ensure that necessary policies and procedures are in place to assure and maintain the consistency of safe product.

For every product sold due diligence must be clearly demonstrated, showing that all possible action was taken to produce a safe product which complies with legislation.

The whole supply chain is required to jointly exercise due diligence and take all reasonable precautions to avoid any offences being committed.

Any due diligence testing must be carried out by a testing lab approved by Animal.

Animal Due Diligence Procedure 1. Animal reserves the right to test, check any order or request proof of compliance/ test reports of any

ordered product to validate the signed Declaration. This may be done at any stage of product development, production or after delivery.

2. Animal will be conducting its own random due diligence testing on products received into the DC and tested by Animal's independent testing partners.

All products that are tested and found not to comply with the legislation or Animal's stated requirements will be withdrawn from sale immediately. In addition to a fine, the supplier will be responsible for all costs incurred in the recall or repair process.


Appendix Links to Animal approved testing laboratories:

http://www.intertek.com/

http://www.hstts.co.uk/

http://www.sgs.co.uk/

http://www.mts.com/

http://www.bureauveritas.com/

http://www.intertek.com/

http://www.hstts.co.uk/

http://www.sgs.co.uk/

http://www.mts.com/en/index.htm

http://www.bureauveritas.com/



3-2 Risk Assessment Form

3-3 Broken Needle Control and Metal Contamination Suppliers and all factories used must demonstrate a management-led commitment to the effective prevention of metal contamination in their products.

There are 2 elements for compliance:

1. Prevention

Taking all reasonable steps possible to ensure no stray metal can contaminate the product.

2. Detection

An additional check to ensure the safety of the product is necessary. Animal requires all products to be passed through a commercial metal detection system with minimum specification of -detective height - 100mm -working height - 90mm -detective width - 600mm -detective capability of iron ball (mm) - FE 0.8mm -speed of conveyor – 32m/min -detective method – magnetic -alarm – buzzer with alarm lamp, conveyor to stop or return -calibration check – documented twice daily (am/pm) Segregation of inventory which has passed through metal detection should be maintained via restricted access to a secure area within the warehouse or packing area where no goods could otherwise physically enter.

Animal requires emphasis on prevention, not a total reliance on detection only. Manual Hand held scanning is not an approved process.

This safety requirement is necessary for all Animal products.

All factories must operate effective control of all sewing needles and their parts during all sewing and

finishing operations and these controls must be enforced in all areas of the factory including the

sample rooms and for any operations that may be sub-contracted e.g. embroidery.

The needles in the machine must be the only needles available to the operative. Under no

circumstances must an operative hold any spare needles.

The issuing of needles must be on a “one new needle for one complete old needle” basis - i.e. when a

new needle is required it should be exchanged for either a worn needle or ALL parts of the broken

needle. This must be conducted by designated line supervisors.

Stocks of spare needles must be held in a secure location and issued by one authorised member of the

management.

All needles must be removed from machines that are not in use.


When a needle breaks

All the parts must be found before any garments around the machine are moved to the next operation.

If all parts of a broken needle cannot be found, then the bundle or bundles of work which the operator

is working on, and any bundles near to the machine must be removed from the area.

These bundles must all be passed through the metal detector to identify any garments containing

metal fragments.

The garments must be thoroughly examined in a quarantined area until the missing needle parts are

found.

If for any reason all the fragments cannot be found the garments must be destroyed.

Broken needle records

Records of ALL broken needle incidents must be kept. The records must be completed at the time of the occurrence (see Broken Needle Record Form).

The following information is required on the broken needle records:

Date Operator Machine Style A section for the needle parts All parts found – yes or no Action taken Supervisor’s signature

The broken needle must be securely attached to the Needle Record Sheet to prove that all the parts

have been found.

All the fragments of the needles should be secured with clear adhesive tape by a nominated

responsible person.

All records should be kept in a secure location and should be available for audit by Animal.

Broken needle record sheets may be disposed of in sealed containers after a pre-determined time

(minimum 1 year), and only following inspection of the records. This is to enable traceability in the

event of a complaint.

Needle change policy

All machine needles must be changed regularly to prevent needle damage.

Each change of fabric type must include a change of needles on all the machines involved.

Needles must only be replaced with brand new needles.

Old or worn needles must be stored separately in a secure container ready for disposal and clearly

labelled as used needles.

Daily checks must be carried out by the mechanic and any problems found documented and the

needles changed as necessary.

Any needle-related faults found at the quality control inspections must be investigated and the

necessary needle changes made.


Control of hand sewing needles

Where products require a hand sewing operation they must be managed using a controlled

replacement procedure. Needles must be counted in and out on a one-for-one basis every shift by the

line supervisor.

One designated member of management should be responsible for holding all hand sewing needles.

There should be a designated quarantined hand sewing area with a limited number of workers with

access to hand sewing needles.

There must be no hand sewing needles anywhere in the factory other than the quarantined area.

Procedures for the replacement of broken or lost needles must follow the broken needle policy.

Records must be maintained for both broken and lost needles.

Hand sewing repairs are not acceptable.

Where extensive hand sewing operations are taking place, product and components should be able to

pass through a metal detector.


Specimen Broken Needle Record Form

Animal: Broken Needle Record Sheet

Date Style Number

Operative Machine type

Needle Size / type

All Parts of Needle found? Yes or No

Attach All Parts Found Here

Action Taken Signature

1/04/14 12345 Miss A Overlock 12 No

Parts not located garments destroyed

A.N.other

Needle Record Sheet checked & approved:

Supervisors signature……………………………………………. Date…………………………..


3-4 Sealing and Approval Process

Animal will use (where possible) salesmen’s samples (SMS) as the gold seal product to be used for final inspection approvals.

Animal and suppliers will work during the development process to ensure the SMS is a true and accurate representation of the product we will deliver in bulk – including material, size, fit, colour, logo application, hand feel, appearance, wash, packaging & labelling.

Animal will order one additional SMS which (if approved as presentable for bulk) will be gold seal tagged and returned to the supplier for use at the actual factory where bulk production will be produced. Any minor modifications required for bulk will be noted on the gold seal tag. This gold seal sample must be available for bulk production and for inspectors doing final product inspection on behalf of Animal. As this product is returned to the factory, it is to be produced free of charge.

Where the SMS is not presentable for bulk production a new PP will be required. This may be as a result of materials, fit etc in the original SMS, it may be as a result of changes made by Animal post launch.

Where a revised PP is requested we require our suppliers to issue 2 PP’s to Animal as quickly as possible. Our suppliers may begin to produce revised PP’s as soon as SMS comments are received. PP’s should be completed within 2 weeks of receipt of request/comments from Animal.

Do not wait for a bulk PO before beginning your PP’s.

All SMS comments will be issued at least 2 weeks prior to our bulk purchase order. Where a new PP is to be requested these comments will be prioritised. Suppliers are encouraged to provide the timeframe in which they wish to receive these SMS comments; Animal will endeavour to prioritise to these requirements.

Animal will provide a document listing which SMS are approved as gold seal and which need to be remade and presented as revised PP submissions to allow approval at style/colour level.

Animal will hold its suppliers responsible for ensuring bulk production matches the gold seal SMS. For example, the supplier must match bulk production colours to those produced in the SMS and not per original pantones specificed. Where applicable Animal will note such changes in SMS comments as “match to SMS” when updating tech packs after SMS review.

The 2 PP’s submitted will be commented on within 5 working days and (subject to approval) will be issued with the gold seal tag and all relevant comments. One of the two will be returned to you for presentation at final inspection stage. Please submit your revised PP’s with the SAMPLE SUBMISSION FORM, (as shown on next page).

The PP process does not remove the responsibility of our suppliers from providing raw material test reports, strike-offs, wash/handfeel/weight submissions (A4 size) , trim approvals, fit approvals from bulk production where requested. These however can be submitted as individual items and not completed products (unless specifically requested).

Any bulk approval with a commercially acceptable difference from the Gold seal sample will be returned to the factory to be held along with the gold seal sample.

If a gold seal sample is available on your production line when our inspectors conduct their final inspection and product is approved, you will not be required to send a shipment sample to Animal.


SAMPLE SUBMISSION FORM

SUPPLIER NAME: DATE:

P1 P2 SMS SIZE SET WEARER PP P2 SHIPMENT OTHER OTHER

SAMPLE:PROTO 1

SAMPLE

PROTO 2

SAMPLE

SMS

SAMPLE

SIZE SET

SAMPLE

WEARER

TRIAL

PRE-PROD.

SAMPLE

PRE-PROD.

SAMPLE

SHIPMENT

SAMPLEMOCK-UP

STRIKE-

OFF

P

CATEGORY: FACTORY NAME: FACTORY NAME (IF DIFFERENT )

STYLE NAME: STYLE NAME COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:

STYLE CODE: STYLE CODE DESCRIPTION: DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCT

COLOUR CODE: 086 SIZE RANGE: XS - 2XL

COLOUR NAME: OLIVE P.O. NUMBER/S 12345 678910

SAMPLE SIZE: AGREED XF DATE/S:

MATERIALS/TRIMS.

CORRECT

QUALITY

SUBS.

QUALITY

CORRECT

COLOUR

SUBS.

COLOUR

FABRIC * - SHELL: P O 123 gsm P SHOULD BE 150gsm

FABRIC - WASH: P SHOULD BE DARKER

FABRIC * - LINING: P P 80 gsm O P

P O 100 gsm INCORRECT IN SLEEVES S/B. 80gsm

FABRIC * - OTHER: gsm

TRIMS / BRANDING: PARTWORK / BRANDING: MISSING FROM SAMPLE

CONSTRUCTION & MEASUREMENTS. CORRECT

DESIGN: PCONSTRUCTION: PWORKMANSHIP: O WRONG STITCHING

P

O*ANIMAL SPEC. MUST BE ATTACHED TO GARMENT WITH KIMBLE TAG, TO INCLUDE MEASUREMENTS OF GARMENT FROM FACTORY.

LABELLING. (INTERNAL) CORRECT

SIZE PIP LABEL: PCORPORATE WOVEN LABEL: PCARE-LABEL: O INCORRECT WORDING

OTHER LABEL: P

PACKAGING. CORRECT

P

P

O SAMPLE STICKER

P

P

P

10/10/2014 30/10/2014

ADDITIONAL REMARKS;

ADDITIONAL REMARKS;

ADDITIONAL REMARKS;

10/10/2014

MENS

LARGE

FACTORY NAME

OTHER HANG-TAG:

CORRECT WEIGHT / SPECIFY

WEIGHT

WADDING * - SPECIFY PART/S:

RETAIL PRICE HANG-TAG:

BARCODE STICKER:

DISCLAIMER HANG-TAG:

FIT HANG-TAG: (example; REG FIT)

MEASUREMENT SPEC. ATTACHED*:

MEASUREMENTS WITHIN TOLERANCE:

CORPORATE HANG-TAG:

ADDITIONAL REMARKS;

COUNTRY


Product Testing

Table 1

Woven Fabrics: Coats, Jackets & Fashion Outerwear (Gilets, etc.) including linings

Test Method Requirements Comments

Legal requirements

Fibre Composition EU Regulation 1007/2011 ± 3% Single fibre no tolerance

Restricted Chemicals Please refer to the Restricted Chemical and Reach Policies to ensure compliance

Compulsory Tests

Jackets & Coats Fashion outerwear

Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 12 kg 8Kg For fabrics containing contrast warp/weft use 3mm seam opening otherwise use 6mm seam opening.

Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935-2 15 kg 12 kg

Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934-2 18 kg 15 kg

Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937-1 1000g Not required on 100% Nylon or Polyester

Dimensional Stability to Washing

BS EN ISO 6330 ± 3% Required for washable garments.

Dimensional Stability to Dry Clean

COMMERCIAL PROCESS ± 3% Required for dry cleanable garments only.

Staining Colour Change Cross staining

Colour fastness to Washing

BS EN ISO 105-C06, A2S 4 4 4-5 Required for washable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics.

Colour fastness to Dry Clean

BS EN ISO 105-D01 4 4 4-5 Required for dry cleanable garments only. Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics.

Colour fastness to Water

BS EN ISO 105-E01 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics.

Colour fastness to Perspiration

BS EN ISO 105-E04 4 4 4-5 Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics.

Colour fastness to Rubbing - Dry

BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - -

Not required on white or cream fabrics. Colour fastness to Rubbing - Wet

BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -

Colour fastness to Light

BS EN ISO 105-B02 Grade 4

Print Durability IHTM2 No breakdown

Shade Change Grade 4 Required on prints

Additional Tests (to be performed at Technologist’s request)

Residual Extension BS EN ISO 14704-1 Method A

5% Max Only required for fabrics containing elastomeric yarns. Test in direction of Elastane only

Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947-2 Shade change at 5,000

20,000 Rubs min Grade 4

Not required for 100% Nylon or Polyester.

Snagging BS 8479 Grade 3 @ 2,000 Revs Only required for fabrics containing over filament yarns.

Pilling BS EN ISO 12945-2 Grade 3-4 after 2,000 Revs Required for all spun fibres. To be tested after laundering.

Filling percolation BS EN 12132-1 (Feather) BS EN 15586 (Fibre)

Max 6 after 6000 revs Only required on filled/quilted fabrics

Cleanliness of feather filling

BS EN 1162 Less than 20 Only required on feather/down fillings of animal origin. Not required if certification to BS EN 12935 is provided.

Shower resistance BS EN ISO 4920 Original: Grade 4

After 1 launder cycle: grade 3 Only required if ‘shower resistant’ claim made

Water resistance BS EN 20811 100 cm H2O Only required if ‘waterproof’ claim made

Dimensional Stability to Steam

BS 4323 ± 3% Required for dry cleanable garments, tailoring and occasion wear.

Garment Appearance Assessment

IHTM1 No Significant Change

Applies to washable and dry cleanable garments. Garment to be tested on all styles containing multi colours, multiple fabric components, embellishments or trims. Report must include comment on cross staining.

Pull test BS 7907 70N – Men’s & Ladies

90N – Children’s Buttons and possible detachable small parts

Fibre shedding IHTM 4 Grade 4 / Slight Only required on fabrics with a pile longer than 3mm.

Phenolic Yellowing BS EN ISO 105-X18 Staining: Grade 4 Only required on white fabrics and trims.

The following tests are only required on children’s articles:

Nap Stability IHTM3 Moderate exposure only of base layer

after 4,000 rubs Only required for fabrics with a napped finish

Surface flash BS 4569 No surface flash Only required for brushed and pile fabrics

pH of Aqueous Extract

BS EN ISO 3071 4.5-7.5 Only required for washed/direct dyed etc products


Product Testing

Table 2

Woven Fabrics: Trousers, Shorts, Skirts, Dresses, Blouses & Shirts (including linings)


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests

Dresses Trousers,

Shorts, Skirts, Shirts,

Blouses

Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 8 kg 12 kg 8Kg For fabrics containing contrast warp/weft use 3mm seam opening otherwise use 6mm seam opening.

Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935-2 12 kg 15 kg 12 kg

Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934-2 15 kg 18 kg 15 kg

Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937-1 750g 1000g 750g Not required on 100% Nylon or Polyester





COMMERCIAL PROCESS ± 3% Required for dry cleanable garments only.

Staining Colour change Cross Staining

Colour Fastness to Washing

BS EN ISO 105-C06, A2S 4 4 4-5 Required for washable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims

Colour Fastness to Dry Clean

BS EN ISO 105-D01 4 4 4-5 Required for dry cleanable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims

Colour Fastness to Water

BS EN ISO 105-E01 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. Cross staining required for contrast trims

Colour Fastness to Perspiration

BS EN ISO 105-E04 4 4 4-5 Cross staining required for contrast trims

Colour Fastness to Rubbing - Dry

BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - -

Not required on white or cream fabrics. Colour Fastness to Rubbing - Wet

BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 -

Colour Fastness to Light


Additional Tests (to be carried out at Technologist’s request)


5% Max Only required for fabrics containing elastomeric yarns. Test in direction of Elastane only. Residual extension measured after 1 minute and 30 minutes.


Not Required 20,000 Rubs

min Grade 4

Not Required Only required for trousers, shorts and skirts. Not required for 100% Nylon or Polyester.

Snagging BS 8479 Grade 3 @ 2,000 Revs Only required for fabrics containing filament yarns.

Dimensional Stability to Steam

BS 4323 ± 3% Required for dry cleanable garments, tailoring and occasion wear.


IHTM1 No Significant Change Applies to washable and dry cleanable garments. Garment to be tested on all styles containing multi colours, multiple fabric components, embellishments or trims.





Phenolic Yellowing BS EN ISO 105-X18 Staining: Grade 4 Only required on white fabrics and trims.

pH of Aqueous Extract BS EN ISO 3071 4.5-7.5 Only required for washed/direct dyed etc products

Notes Loose and flowing garments such as skirts and dresses which are made from cellulosic material (cotton or viscose) and which are lightweight (under 150 gsm) must have the warning “KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE” included on the garment label.


Product Testing

Table 3 Woven Fabrics: Denim


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests

Light

Weight Up to 220 gsm

Medium weight 220 to 365 gsm

Heavy Weight

Over 365 gsm

Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 (Rigids) BS EN ISO 13936-2 (Stretch)

8 kg 12 kg 12 Kg For fabrics containing contrast warp/weft use 3mm seam opening otherwise use 6mm seam opening.

Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935-2 15 kg 18 kg 21 kg

Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934-2 15 kg 18 kg 21 kg

Tear strength BS EN ISO 13937-1 1000 g 1200 g 1400 g



Staining Shade change Cross staining


BS EN ISO 105-C06, A2S 3-4 3-4 4-5 Required for washable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims


BS EN ISO 105-E01 3-4 3-4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. . Cross staining required for contrast trims


BS EN ISO 105-E04 3-4 3-4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. . Cross staining required for contrast trims


BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - - Not required on white or cream fabrics. Bleached denim: Dry 4 Wet 3-4 Colour Fastness to

Rubbing - Wet BS EN ISO 105-X12 3 - -



pH of Aqueous Extract BS EN ISO 3071 4.5 to 7.5



5% Max Only required for stretch fabrics containing elastomeric yarns. Test in direction of Elastane only



Not Required



Applies to washable and dry cleanable garments. Garment to be tested on all styles containing multi colours, multiple fabric components, embellishments or trims.

Print durability IHTM2 No breakdown




Notes


Product Testing

Table 4 Knitted Fabrics, Fleece and Jersey wear


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests


BS EN ISO 6330 +3 / -5% Required for washable garments.


COMMERCIAL PROCESS +3 / -5% Required for dry cleanable garments only.

Spirality IHTM 5 5% max

Pilling BS EN ISO 12945-2 Flat fabrics: Grade 3-4 after 500 revs

Brushed fabrics: Grade 3 after 500 revs

Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938-2 250 kPa





BS EN ISO 105-D01 4 4 4-5 Required for dry cleanable garments only. Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics.


BS EN ISO 105-E01 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. . Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics.




BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - -


BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -








Pull Test BS 7907 70N – Men’s & Ladies



10% recovery after 1 minute relaxation Only required for stretch fabrics and rib fabrics with more than 3% elastomeric yarn.

Phenolic Yellowing BS EN ISO 105-X18 Staining: grade 4 White Garments only


Fibre shedding IHTM 4 Grade 4 / Slight Only required for fabrics with a pile longer than 3mm

Surface flash BS 4569 No surface flash Test all pile. faux fur, brushed and raised surface fabrics.



Vertical Wicking AATC197 Minimum requirement 150mm after 30 minutes, after

1HL, and/or 3HL Applicable to sweat/jersey fabrics only, requirements after 1HL and 3HL at technologist discretion.

Notes


Product Testing

Table 5 Knitwear


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests

Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938-2 250 kPa

Pilling BS EN ISO 12945-2 3-4 after 500 revs


BS EN ISO 6330 +3/-5% Required for washable garments.


COMMERCIAL PROCESS +3/-5% Required for dry cleanable garments.

Spirality IHTM 5 5% max Knitted fabrics only



BS EN ISO 105-C06, A2S 4 4 4-5 Required for washable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims and fabrics


BS EN ISO 105-D01 4 4 4-5 Required for dry cleanable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims and fabrics


BS EN ISO 105-E01 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. . Cross staining required for contrast trims and fabrics




BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - - Not required on white or cream fabrics.

Colour Fastness to Rubbing - Wet

BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -





Chenille pile loss BS EN ISO 12947-3 Less than 35 mg Only required for fabrics containing chenille yarn






10% recovery after 1 minute relaxation Only required for stretch fabrics with more than 3% elastomeric yarn and rib fabrics.

The following tests are only required on children’s articles & all products:


Surface flash BS 4569 No surface flash Only required for brushed fabrics or fabrics with a pile longer than 3mm





Notes


Product Testing

Table 6 Swimwear & Beachwear


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests

Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 8 kg Woven fabrics only. For fabrics containing contrast warp/weft use 3mm seam opening otherwise use 6mm seam opening.

Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935-2 12 kg

Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934-2 15 kg Woven fabrics only

Tear Strength BS EN ISO 13937-1 1000 g Woven fabrics only. Not required on 100% Nylon or Polyester

Bursting Strength BS EN ISO 13938-2 250 kPa Knitted fabrics only


BS EN ISO 6330 Woven: ± 3%

Knitted: +3/-5% Required for washable garments.




BS EN ISO 105-C06, A2S 4 4 4-5 Required for washable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims and fabrics





Colour Fastness to Chlorinated water

BS EN ISO 105-E03 - 4 - Swimwear: Use 50mg/L solution; Beachwear: Use 20 mg/L solution

Colour Fastness to Sea Water

BS EN ISO 105-E02 4 4 4-5 Required for washable garments. Cross staining required for contrast trims and fabrics




BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -




Residual extension BS EN ISO 14704-1 Method A

Woven: 5% max Knitted: 10% max

Only required for fabrics with elastomeric yarn.


Piling BS EN ISO 12945-2 Grade 3-4 after 2,000 Revs (woven fabrics) Grade 3-4 after 500 revs (knitted fabrics)

Required for all spun fibres. To be tested after laundering.





UV protection BS EN 13758-1 (Apparel) BS 8466 (Hats)

Apparel: 40+ Hats: 50+

Only applicable to garments for which UV protection is claimed. Garments shall also comply with design requirements in BS EN 13758-2. Hats shall comply with design requirements of BS 8466.





Notes


Product Testing

Table 7 Nightwear


Legal requirements


Rate of spread of flame

Nightwear Safety Regulations 1985

Must comply For children’s nightwear (i.e. intended for children up to 14 years old), garments for which there is no performance requirement other than labelling in the Nightwear Safety Regulations such as pyjamas, onesies and other close fitting garments must comply with EN 14878. Garments for which the Nightwear Safety Regulations include a flammability performance requirement must comply with those requirements.

EN 14878 Class A


Compulsory Tests

Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 8 kg Woven fabrics only. For fabrics containing contrast warp/weft use 3mm seam opening otherwise use 6mm seam opening.




Pilling BS EN ISO 12945-2 Flat fabrics: Grade 3-4 after 500 revs

Brushed fabrics: Grade 3 after 500 revs





Surface flash BS 4569 No surface flash Test all pile. Faux fur, brushed and raised surface fabrics.












BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -











IHTM1 No Significant Change Garment to be tested on all styles containing multi colours, multiple fabric components, embellishments or trims.





Notes All nightwear must carry the warning “KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE” on the garment label.


Product Testing

Table 8 Underwear


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests

Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 5 kg Woven fabrics only. Use 3mm seam opening.

Seam Strength BS EN ISO 13935-2 10 kg Woven fabrics only.



Bursting strength BS EN ISO 13938-2 Fabric & Seams: 250 kPa Knitted fabrics and knitted garments only.







IHTM1 No Significant Change Garment to be tested on all styles containing multi colours, multiple fabric components, embellishments, trims and fabrics.





BS EN ISO 105-E01 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. . Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics




BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - -


BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -





Residual extension BS EN ISO 14704-1 Method A





Phenolic Yellowing BS EN ISO 105-X18 Staining: Grade 4 All fabrics


Rate of spread of flame

EN 14878 Class A Please refer to Nightwear Safety regulations

Surface flash BS 4569 No surface flash Test all pile. Faux fur, brushed and raised surface fabrics.



Notes All underwear must carry the warning “KEEP AWAY FROM FIRE” on the garment label.


Table 9 Technical Clothing (Skiwear)


Legal requirements

Fibre Composition EU Regulation 1007/2011 ± 3% Single fibre no tolerance. Applies to all textile components including filling materials.

Restricted Chemicals - Please refer to the Restricted Chemical and Reach Policies to ensure compliance

Compulsory Tests

Tensile Strength BS EN ISO 13934-2 45 kg

Seam Slippage BS EN ISO 13936-1 18 kg


Tear Strength BS EN ISO 4674-1 Method A

2.5 kg Required on outer fabric only

Water Resistance BS EN 20811 / ISO 811

As received: 100 cm H2O Outer fabric and seams to be tested.

After pre-treatment: 80 cm H2O

To be tested after each of following pre-treatments: Abrasion: EN 530, 1000 cycles, 9kPa pressure Washing or dry cleaning: 5 cycles as per care label Flexing: BS EN ISO 7854 Method C, 9000 cycles


BS EN ISO 6330 ± 3% Required for washable garments. All water resistance fabrics will need to record any deterioration in the coating


COMMERCIAL PROCESS ± 3% Required for dry cleanable garments only. All water resistance fabrics will need to record any deterioration in the coating.

Filling Percolation BS EN 12132-1 (Feather) BS EN 15586 (Fibre)

Max 6 after 6000 revs Required on all filled/quilted garments

Staining Colour Change

Cross staining

Colour fastness to Washing


Colour fastness to Dry Clean

BS EN ISO 105-D01 4 4 4-5 Required for dry cleanable garments only. Cross staining required for contrast trims.

Colour fastness to Water

BS EN ISO 105-E01 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. Cross staining required for contrast trims

Colour fastness to Perspiration

BS EN ISO 105-E04 4 4 4-5 Cross staining required for contrast trims

Colour fastness to Rubbing - Dry

BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - -

Not required on white or cream fabrics. Colour fastness to Rubbing - Wet

BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -









Snagging BS 8479 Grade 3 @ 2,000 Revs Only required for fabrics containing over filament yarns.


Thermal Resistance BS 4745 Single Plate or ISO 11092 (Rct mode)

> 3 tog (>0.30 m2.K/W) Tested on ensemble/final garment. Garment label should state thermal resistance rounded to nearest 0.5 tog. See note below.

Water Resistance BS EN 20811 100 cm H2O Only required if waterproof (water resistance) claim made.

Water Vapour Permeability

ISO 11092 Ret < 55 m2.K/W Required on all technical outerwear garments

Air Permeability BS EN ISO 9237 < 5 mm/s Required on all technical outerwear garments

Cleanliness of feather filling

BS EN 1162 Less than 20 Only required on feather/down fillings of animal origin. Not required if certification to BS EN 12935 is provided.



Pull Test BS 7907 70N – Men’s & Ladies


Fibre Shedding IHTM 4

Shower resistance BS EN ISO 4920 Original: Grade 4

After 1 launder cycle: grade 3 Only required if ‘shower resistant’ claim made

Notes: The thermal resistance should be appropriate for the end-use climate for which the article is intended. The colder the climate the greater the potential thermal resistance necessary to maintain body warmth. However it is also necessary to prevent overheating when the wearer is engaged in strenuous physical activity such as skiing and therefore it may be necessary to provide guidance as to the suitability of the garment for the environment and duration of different activities for which it will be worn.


Product Testing

Table 10 Socks & Hosiery


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests

Abrasion BS EN 13770 Socks containing wool: 10,000 rubs

Other socks: 7,000 Rubs

Stability Tests

Washing BS EN ISO 6330 +3 / -5 % Must be tumble dried

Fit Must fit appropriate T.S. Sock Board

and fit at heel after washing

Colour Fastness Tests


Washing BS EN ISO 105-C06, A2S 4 4 4-5 Cross staining required for contrast trims

Perspiration BS EN ISO 105-E04 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. . Cross staining required for contrast trims & fabrics

Rubbing - Dry BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - - Not required on white or cream fabrics.

Rubbing - Wet BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -


Anti-bacterial activity BS EN 1174 Anti-bacterial value not less than 2 Only required when anti-bacterial claim is made. Test using Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumonia.


IHTM1 No Significant Change Garment to be tested on all styles containing multi colours, multiple fabric components, embellishments or trims.





Notes: Products such as bed socks require “Keep Away From Fire” stated on the garment label. Your technologist will advise if relevant


Product Testing

Table 11 Hats, Scarves, Gloves


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests


BS EN ISO 6330 ± 3% (Wovens) ± 5% (Knitteds)




Colour Fastness to Water BS EN ISO 105-E01 4 4 4-5 Not required on white or cream fabrics. . Cross staining required for contrast trims


BS EN ISO 105-X12 4 - -


BS EN ISO 105-X12 3-4 - -


Snagging BS 8479 3-4 at 2,000 revs Only required for fabrics containing filament yarns.

Abrasion BS EN ISO 12947-2 10,000 revs Colour change: 4 at 5,000 revs

Colour Fastness to Light BS EN ISO 105-B02 Grade 4






Print Durability IHTM2 No breakdown Shade change: Grade 4

Only required for printed designs.

Appearance Assessment IHTM1 No Significant Change

Pile loss AATCC 93 < 16% Cut pile fabrics only. Not required on terry towelling.



Surface flash BS 4569 No surface flash Only required for brushed fabrics or fabrics with a pile longer than 3mm

Attachment Strength BS 7907 Annex B 70 N Applies to all grippable applique, buttons, press-fasteners, pom-poms, etc.

UV protection BS 8466 50+ Only applicable to hats for which UV protection is claimed. Hats shall also comply with design requirements in BS 8466.



Notes


Product Testing

Table 12 Towels


Legal requirements



Compulsory Tests

Pile loss AATCC 93 < 16% Cut pile fabrics only. Not required on terry towelling.


BS EN ISO 6330 ± 7%



BS EN ISO 105-C06, A2S 4 4 4-5 Cross staining required for contrast trims

Colour Fastness to Chlorinated water

BS EN ISO 105-E03 - 4 - 50 mg/L solution. Not required on white or cream fabrics.

Colour Fastness to Sea water

BS EN ISO 105-E02 4 4 4-5 Only required for beach towels.




BS EN ISO 105-X12 3 - -






Shade change: Grade 4 Only required for printed designs.

Appearance Assessment


Notes French and Terry towelling fabrications must state “Wash Before Use” on garment label


Product Testing

Table 13 Fashion Bags / Rucksacks /Luggage

Test Method Requirements Comments Legal Requirements

Fashion Bags Rucksacks/

Holdalls Luggage

Fibre Composition EU Regulation 1007/2011 ± 3% ± 3% ± 3% Only for bags/ luggage with a textile content 80% or more by weight


Physical Tests Tear Strength (for Textiles and Non Coated)

BS EN ISO 13937-3 10N

Tear Strength (for Coated )

BS 3424-5 Method 7B 20N

Tear Strength (for Leather)

BS EN ISO 3377-1

30N 50N 60N

Abrasion Resistance BS EN ISO 12947-1 @ 20,000 rubs

No breakdown of material

Martindale abrasion leather

BS EN ISO 13520 12,800 revs dry/ No worse than moderate wear

Seam Strength ISO 13935-2 Size <15x15cm:

50N Size >15x15cm:

100N

Size >30x30cm: 200N

Strap Handle to Body Attachment

IN HOUSE TEST METHOD 100N min 200N min 250N min

Durability of Telescopic Pull Handle

IN HOUSE TEST METHOD

Load the sample. Hang the tested handle, lift it up and lower it. Handles to withstand 1000 cycles. Height <55cm Load 5kg

Wheel Durability IN HOUSE TEST METHOD

allow the luggage to run over a smooth surface for 1hour at 6 km / hour

H: < 56 cm (22”) 20kg

Decorative Trim Attachment ( possible choking hazard)

BS 7907 90N


Water (for Textiles) BS EN ISO 105-E01:2010

Staining Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Cross stain grade 4-5

Not required on white or cream fabrics.

Water (for Leather) BS EN ISO 11642

Staining Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4

Cross Stain 4-5

Water spotting (Leather)

BS EN ISO 15700: 1999 Colour change grade 3-4 (no residual halo)

Rubbing ( for Textiles)) BS EN ISO 105-X12:2002 Dry Grade 4

Wet Grade 3-4 Not required on white or cream fabrics.

Rubbing (Leather) BS EN ISO 11640: 2012

Dry 50 cycles – grade 4 Wet 25 cycles – grade 3-4



Volume/capacity ASTM F2153 As specified in Brand POS

General Requirements: 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.1. YKK Zips must be used 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.2. All Clip Fasteners (including internal key clips) and Ladder locks – D Flex 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.3. Shoulder Straps Attachments need to have extra reinforcement 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.4. All products to be without pits. burrs, scratches, dents, cracks or discoloured surfaces 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.5. Ensure all dot magnets line up correctly 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.6. Please ensure that Silica Gel sachets are not used – Use Micro Pak where appropriate

Notes


Product Testing

Table 14 Belts

Test Method Requirements Comments Legal Requirements

Webbing/ Textile PU Leather

Fibre Composition ( webbing/ textiles only)

1007/2011 EU Fibre content labelling regulations

± 3% N/A N/A


Physical Tests

Flexing EN ISO 7854 Method C No worse than slight

cracking at 9000 cycles

Flexing ( for Leather) BS EN 22288:2009 No worse than slight

cracking at 20,000 cycles

Decorative Trim Attachment ( possible choking hazard

BS 7907 90N

ON CHILDRENS PRODUCTS ONLY


Water ( for Textiles) BS EN ISO 105-E01:2010

Staining Grade 4 Shade Change Grade

4 Cross stain Grade 4-5


Cross stain Grade 4-5


Cross stain Grade 4-5



Staining Grade 3

Shade Change Grade - 3

Rubbing ( for Textiles) BS EN ISO 105-X12:2002 Dry Grade 4


Rubbing (for Leather) BS EN ISO 11640: 2012




General Requirements - 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.1. No sharp edges on metalwork 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.2. Trim and decoratives to be tested for durability and security of attachment 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.3. Prongs to be appropriate length for buckle 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.4. All products to be without: pits/burrs/scratches/dents/cracks/discoloured surfaces 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.5. Please ensure that Silica Gel sachets are not used – Use Micro pak where appropriate

Notes


Product Testing

Table 15 Purses and Wallets


Textile PU Leather


Physical Tests Decorative Trim Attachment ( possible choking hazard)

BS 7907 90N



Staining Grade 4 Shade Change

Grade 4 Cross stain grade

4-5



4-5




Grade 3

Rubbing ( for Textiles) BS EN ISO 105-X12:2002 Dry Grade 4


Rubbing (for Leather) BS EN ISO 11640: 2012




pH of Aqueous Extract BS EN ISO 3071 4.5-7.5 Only required for washed/direct dyed products

General Requirements: 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.1. YKK Zips must be used 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.2. Trim and decorative items to be tested for durability and security of attachment 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.3. All products to be without pits, burrs, scratches, dents, cracks or discoloured surfaces 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.4. Ensure all dot magnets line up correctly 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.5. Please ensure that Silica Gel sachets are not used – Use Micro Pak where appropriate

Notes


Product Testing

Table 16 Footwear


Men’s Women’s Children's


All Footwear Tests Sole Bond BS EN ISO 17708:2003 4N/mm 3N/mm 4N/mm Slip Resistance TM 144:2007 Min 0.3 Min 0.3 Min 0.4

Decorative Trims EN 71 Part1 90N

Abrasion resistance of outsole

ISO 17707 SATRA TM411

Colour Fastness Tests – Upper and lining

to Water – Leather/ Suede

TM335:1994 BS EN 13516:2002-C

Staining Grade 4 Shade Change Grade 4 Cross stain grade 4-5

to Water -Textiles BE EN ISO 105:C06 Staining Grade 4

Shade Change Grade 4 Cross stain grade 4-5

to Rubbing BS EN ISO 105-X12:2002 Dry Grade 4

Wet Grade 3-4

to Light (Trims only) TM 160:1992 BS EN ISO B02:1999

Grade 4

Print Durability IN HOUSE TEST METHOD

Additional Tests

Heel Attachment BS EN 12785:2000

500N No greater than 15% of heel height

Heel Fatigue BS EN ISO 19956:2004

14,000 blows

Flip Flop - Toe post attachment TM 118:1992 250 200 250 - Strap to Sole BS 5131 pt 5:5:11 250 200 250 Rubber Boots - Flexing Endurance BS EN ISO 7854 250000 flexes Children ONLY Mechanical / physical – trim attachments

EN 71 -1:2011+A3:2014 Pass as specified

Flammability EN 71-2:2011+A1:2014 Pass as specified

Toxicity – migration of certain elements

EN 71-3:2013 Pass as specified




Vamp Flex Testing TM25 5 cycle requirement = 50k flexes Coated/PU - vamps and uppers Print Durability (Martindale method)

TM31 Dry: minimum 3200 cycles Wet: minimum 1600 cycles

Applicable to all EVA/EVA blended foot bed prints

General Requirements: - Sheet PVC is NOT permitted for use as a outsole material

All top pieces must be 100% virgin PU. PVC is not permitted All zips must have plastic top stops

Please ensure that Silica Gel sachets are not used – Use Micro Pak where appropriate

Notes


Product Testing

Table 17 Water Bottles and Lunch Bags


Water Bottle – Plastic Lunch Bag - Plastic


Legal Requirements Materials and Articles in Contact with Food (EN1186) – Food Grade Plastic Safety

With reference to EN 1186

*Food Grade Plastic Safety (For Silicone, Rubber Material)

With reference to EN1186

Performance Tests

Tensile strength of stopper 90N

Dishwasher- where applicable

In house test method

Fill 90% water with dye into

the bottle and then close the enclosure tightly. Shall

be no leakage after reversing it for 1 hr.

n/a

Leakage test In house test method

10 cycles – no breakage / adverse effects / visible

damage / colour change. Load in bottom rack unless claimed top loading only.

N

Seam Strength In house test method Shall withstand 30lbs

Handle Strength In house test method

The minimum force required to detach the handles from

the sample shall be reported.

Print Abrasion In house test method

Colourfastness to rubbing – where applicable

BS EN ISO 105-X12:2002

4 Dry 3-4 Wet

Colourfastness to Water – where applicable

BS EN ISO 105-E01:2010

Colour change: grade 4 or above Colour stain: grade 4 or above

General Requirements:

1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.1. Trim and decorative items to be tested for durability and security of attachment 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.2. All products to be without pits, burrs, scratches, dents, cracks or discoloured surfaces 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.3. Please ensure that Silica Gel sachets are not used – Use Micro Pak where appropriate

Notes


Product Testing

Table 18 Pencil cases/ Phone covers/ iPad & iPhone covers


Pencil Cases Covers – Ipad/ phone/

Laptop etc.


Physical Tests Decorative Trim Attachment ( possible choking hazard)

BS 7907 90N

For Child Appealing Product Only

Mechanical / physical – trim attachments

BS EN 71-1:2011+A3:2014 Pass as specified

Flammability EN71 -2:2011+A1:2014 Pass as specified

Toxicity – migration of certain elements

EN71-3:2013 Pass as specified





4-5



4-5




Grade 3

Rubbing BS EN ISO 105-X12:2002 Dry Grade 4


Rubbing (Leather) BS EN ISO 11640: 2012



90N – Children’s Buttons and possible detachable small parts where applicable

General Requirements: 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.1. YKK Zips must be used 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.2. Trim and decorative items to be tested for durability and security of attachment 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.3. All products to be without pits, burrs, scratches, dents, cracks or discoloured surfaces 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.4. Ensure all dot magnets line up correctly 1.1.1.i.A.I.I.I.5. Please ensure that Silica Gel sachets are not used – Use Micro pak where appropriate

Notes


Product Testing

Table 19 Watches


Metal Strapped Watch Fabric strapped Watch


Legal Requirements

EMC Compliance according to EMC Directive 2004/108/EC

EN 6 1000-6-1 EN 6 1000-6-3

The complete product assembly must comply with all relevant requirements of EN 6 1000-6-1 and EN 6 1000-6-3 including the applicable amendments to the standards

EU Restricted of Hazardous Substances (ROHS) Directive

With reference to IEC 62321:2008. Analysis performed by XRF spectroscopy.

Directive 2011/65?EU Annex 11 recasting 2002/95/EC

Lead, cadmium, mercury content Applicable to batteries

Directive 2006/66/EC Must comply with the chemical and labelling requirements of Directive 2006/66/EC

Lead, cadmium, mercury and chromium VI, Applicable to packing materials

Directive 2006/66/EC Must comply with the chemical and labelling requirements of Directive 2006/66/EC

WEEE Directive 2002/96/EU Directive 2002/96/EU Crossed out wheelie bin symbol on product and user manual EN50419

Lead content applicable to jewellery including imitation jewellery

See Restricted Chemical Spreadsheet

Performance Tests Water Resistance

ISO 22810 X X

Drop test on lens In house test method X

X

Strap strength test In house test method X X

Accuracy of Movement In house test method X X

Resistance to corrosion EN ISO 9227 ( Mod) X

Abrasion test X X

Artificial Perspiration In House Test Method X X

Drop Impact Test In House Test Method X X


Water BS EN ISO 105-E01:2010

Staining Grade 3-44 Shade Change Grade 4 Cross stain -Grade 4-5

Rubbing BS EN ISO 105-X12:2002 Dry Grade 4

Wet Grade 3-4

Labelling

Instruction / Packaging Information

Must contain: a) Distributor names and trademark b) Product identification c) Net quantity of contents in terms of weight , measure and numerical count

Country of Origin Country of Origin must be in permanent and conspicuous place and visible at point of sale

Labelling CE marking needs to be at least 5mm in vertical height

Crossed out wheelie bin symbol required by WEEE directive with minimum height of 7mm

Notes

Date post:	13-Apr-2020
Category:	Documents
Upload:	others
View:	0 times
Download:	0 times

Section 3 Quality, General Product Safety and Testing...

Documents