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WWD COLLECTIONS/MARKET WEEK PREVIEW

2 WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 14, 2010

JOHN GALLIANO’S EXUBERANT, ECLECTIC APPROACH TO MEN’S WEAR IS ABOUT TO FIND A broader audience as Galliano, the designer’s diffusion line produced by Ittierre, launches in Milan on Monday, during men’s fashion week. For its first men’s outing, Galliano is definitely hitting a young streety vibe. The collection is focused on cool casual outerwear, stonewashed denim, distressed leather, tartan wool and sporty fleece. But count on John Galliano to make it his own, with a rock star attitude and a Boho twist. He cobbled classic pieces such as a tartan wool duffle with the sleeves of a military parka, and a denim jacket with tailored sleeves. The collection also uses the famous “Galliano gazette” print, presented this time in a subdued black and gray or military green version for the linings of the parkas, on the quilted nylon down jackets or overprinted on denim pieces. Here, a preview of the contemporary sportswear line, and a few words with the designer and consummate showman.

WWD: What are the design infl uences in this debut season?John Galliano: It is pure Galliano. It is inspired by the attitude and anarchy of the London rock scene. It’s a very urban attitude. It shares the same DNA as John Galliano Homme. It is quirky, cool, streetwise.

WWD: Why launch this line now?J.G.: The men’s collection has been steadily growing in content, as well as commercial appeal. It was a good opportunity to streamline the men’s collection and create a diffusion that would enable us to expand our clientele, as well as the characteristics of [the Galliano wearer]. It’s not just women that want more choice, more styles, more options. I want to establish a diffusion line that would complement [the main line] and could pepper a man’s wardrobe with all the essentials, and Galliano fl avor.

WWD: Who do you see wearing it?J.G.: Everyone and anyone. This is for guys that have their own ideas, own identity and want to express themselves through style.

WWD: Will you wear it?J.G.: Of course. With men’s wear I have a rule: If I won’t wear it, we won’t produce it.

Galliano DNA Evident in New Diffusion Line

Looks from the new Galliano diffusion line.

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By Emilie Marsh

BLOOD IS THICKER THAN WATER AND, IN THE CASE OF FAMILY-OWNED Italian men’s wear firm Ermenegildo Zegna, which celebrates its centennial this year, it’s also the secret to business longevity.

“This continuity is the best hard evidence of our beliefs and of our rigor in our passionate, restless quest for innovation,” the company’s chief executive officer, Gildo Zegna, told WWD in an interview ahead of the label’s men’s wear presentation, which will be held here on Saturday at the sprawling headquar-ters on Via Savona.

Founded in 1910 in Trivero, a small village in the Italian Alps, by Ermenegildo Zegna, the son of a watchmaker-turned-wool mill owner, the group has stayed within the family ever since, and in 2008 generated sales of 870.6 million euros, or $1.28 billion at average exchange.

Ermenegildo Zegna passed the reins of the company to his sons in the Sixties — Angelo Zegna, honorary chairman of the group, and Aldo Zegna. The second generation launched the brand’s ready-to-wear label in 1968. The company is run by their children: Gildo Zegna; Paolo Zegna, chairman, and Anna Zegna, image director and head of Fondazione Zegna. Benedetta, Laura and Renata Zegna also are involved in the business.

Gildo Zegna said he expects group sales to decline in 2009 by “high-single dig-its” compared with 2008 due to challenging business in Europe and America, al-though sales should grow by single digits in 2010 as consumer confidence returns. “Appreciation for real value,” he said, as well as demand from the emerging mar-kets of greater China and Brazil, are expected to bolster business, as well.

To mark its centenary, the group plans a flurry of new products and limited edi-tion lines under the Ermenegildo Zegna label. Kicking off the festivities, the new decade and the start of the Milan men’s shows, Zegna will unveil its centennial

wardrobe, a collection of apparel and accessories, which takes inspiration from the brand’s debut. Ready-to-wear, for instance, features retro touches such as exaggerated lapels, double-breasted jackets and fabrics dating back to 1910.

“Over the last century, Ermenegildo Zegna has been at the forefront of fab-ric innovation and excellence in natu-ral fibers,” said Gildo Zegna, adding the line will hit stores in July.

To that end, Lanificio Zegna cre-ated Centennial Fabric No. 1 — a take on a pattern designed by Ermenegildo Zegna 100 years ago and updated for the centennial collection. A commemo-rative bespoke selvage fabric, with the inscription “Ermenegildo Zegna 1910-2010,” also will be offered, along with the Centennial Vellus Aureum Fabric, which the label touts as “the world’s finest wool.” With fibers measuring just 10.3 microns in diameter, the fabric will be available for a limited made-to-measure program in May.

The brand will also unveil a lim-ited edition accessories line including an 18-karat rose gold watch by Girard-Perregaux, a fountain pen made in col-laboration with Omas and diamond-en-crusted rose gold cuff links, all of which will be displayed in showcases surround-ing the runway at the Milan show. A lim-ited run of 100 of each of the designs will be sold at Ermenegildo Zegna flagships.

“As Angelo Zegna, my great-grand-father, first launched watches followed by textiles, we felt creating a specially designed and manufactured centennial watch had significant meaning,” Gildo Zegna explained. “Ermenegildo Zegna also kept incredibly precise handwrit-ten notes of every fabric composition and client order. These notes were al-ways written with a fountain pen.”

Also in store for 2010 is the launch of an Ermenegildo Zegna book, pub-lished by Skira, tracing the history of the label with forewords penned by Suzy Menkes, James Hillman, Daniel Max and Michelangelo Pistoletto. The book will hit bookstores as well as Zegna boutiques in June. The same month, an exhibit will be held at the Triennale museum in Milan before moving to Shanghai in July for the opening of a store there — the label’s fifth flagship worldwide and the largest in Asia — designed by the architect.

According to Gildo Zegna, “Vision and strict discipline, sticking to ones roots, global branding, strong organization with international talent and a stay liq-uid-cash-is-king” approach have helped shape Ermenegildo Zegna into a global brand. It now counts more than 547 points of sale worldwide, of which 271 are fully owned. Its portfolio also includes the fashion-forward brand Z Zegna, launched in 2005, and women’s ready-to-wear label Lanerie Agnona, acquired in 1999.

“We tightly control materials, processes and craftsmanship. Our vertical in-tegration is a great strength. Our stability allows us to retain the most skilled managers and workers; our financial solidity allows us to continue investing,” Gildo Zegna said.

However, la famiglia remains the cardinal rule behind company’s success. As Gildo and Paolo are fond of saying: “A great family makes a great company; a great company makes a great family.”

Zegna Celebrates a Century of Style

“Over the last century, Ermenegildo Zegna has been at the forefront of fabric innovation and excellence in natural fibers. ”

— Gildo Zegna, Ermenegildo Zegna

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Looks from the Ermenegildo Zegna collection.

The company will launch a limited edition watch and pen to celebrate its centennial.

P R E S E N T I N G T H E A / W M M X C O L L E C T I O N

GANT SHOWROOM 20 WEST 55TH ST NEW YORK 212-230-1949 [email protected] GANT.COM/MICHAELBASTIAN

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AMERICAN DREAMAS WORKWEAR AND AMERICAN CLASSIC TRENDS REACH A GLOBAL HIGH, NEW YORK MARKET WEEK VENDORS ARE BLENDING BOTH TRENDS IN A CELEBRATION OF AMERICAN HERITAGE AND STYLE. RUGGED CORDUROY, BOILED WOOL AND DISTRESSED DENIM BECOME KEY FABRICS, WHILE LIGHT PERFORMANCE-BASED OUTERWEAR, PLAID FLANNEL SHIRTS AND UNCONSTRUCTED TAILORING PROVIDE THE PERFECT FOUNDATION FOR THE GREAT OUTDOORS. — ALEX BADIA

Woolrich John Rich & Bros.’ polyester jacket; Civil

Smith’s cotton shirt, and Johannes Faktotum cotton,

nylon and elastane pants. Red Wing Shoes boots.

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PHOTOS BY MATTHEW SANDAGER

A little more than 25 years ago, Thomas Meyer, a young

man from Switzerland, dreamed of a future where people

could express their individuality in “fresh quality clothes at

happy-go-lucky prices.”

He set to work and, with the help of others, he made

that dream a reality. Today, women’s and men’s apparel

and accessories from Desigual, the European company

he founded, are available in 5,500 independent

outlets – plus 150 Desigual-branded stores and 500

corners in department stores – in 65 countries.

Desigual, which means “not the same,” is all

about being unique. Indeed, the fi rm’s values

were expressly designed to differentiate the

brand in today’s fi ercely competitive market:

“Desigual is an emotive brand based on a

positive attitude, happiness, involvement,

being unconventional and a lack of inhibitions,”

said Manel Adell, CEO.

In terms of the clothes, the company achieves

this by offering truly singular garments that

are produced in parts, with each part

containing different designs, colors and

fabrics, which are then combined when

the garment is assembled.

Another way Desigual is different

is evident in the philosophy “Fun &

Profi t.” “‘Fun,’” explained Adell, “means

enjoying our work and feeling committed

to a project, and ‘profi t’ means achieving

sustained and sustainable growth while

maintaining our corporate values.”

Since the company experienced a sustained annual

growth rate of more than 50 percent from 2002 to 2008 it’s

clear that the twin philosophies are working. But that’s just

the beginning.

Desigual’s plans include maintaining that 50-percent

growth rate. Making that a possibility is the fi rm’s logistics

center in Gavà, Spain. Currently handling 9 million garments

annually, the 160,000-square-foot center can process up

to 17 million.

The Desigual team is confi dent it will hit that mark

in the foreseeable future by continuing

its global expansion while tending its

European base. Toward that, the fi rm

has acquired franchise partners in the

United Arab Emirates, Saudi Arabia,

Russia, Romania and Lebanon; is active in

Singapore, Tokyo and Hong Kong; opened

its fi rst branded U.S. store in New York City;

has established a position in more than

600 multi-brand stores; and sells into 34

Macy’s stores in the U.S. and 17 The Bay

stores in Canada.

Clearly, Thomas Meyer made his

dream a reality and, just as clearly, he’s

not done yet.

ADVERTISEMENT

Desigual: It’s Not the SameUnique and Unusual, Desigual Wants to be in Every Closet in the World

Happy: The Glass Half-full

Each season, Desigual’s design team

creates a collection based on a single

concept refl ecting the company’s values.

Company founder and President Thomas

Meyer proposed Happy: The Glass Half-

full for Fall/Winter 2010/2011 because

“what’s important in life is perspective.”

The three collections in Happy aim to

transmit this positive energy to those who

wear them.

Desigual

The namesake line is a collection of

basics inspired by all the defi ning

elements of the brand: Thomas Meyer’s

messages, illustration and graffi ti.

Stripes, antique engravings, decorative

motifs, graphic borders, fl oral designs

or geometrical prints abound. Pinks,

purples, greens and blues are everywhere

and come wrapped in neutral hues.

Artisan

Inspired by objects crafted by hand in

time-honored ways, Artisan includes

clothes that are more polished, distilled to

the essence to reach a broader audience,

but, nonetheless, are full of surprising

details. The colors are brighter, including

a palette of natural woodland shades with

greens, warm and dark browns and wine

hues over a background of contrasting

orange and ochre.

Night/CRT

The top of the line for women, Night

employs the most luxuriant fabrics

– with an emphasis on gloss and

sheen – and includes styles for

the truly cosmopolitan with a taste

for the avant-garde. The men’s

line – called CRT, which stands for

Clásico Renovado con Toque or

Classic Revisited with New Touches –

emphasizes jackets made up in blocks of

color of different cloths with contrasting

linings and pants in cord and serge.

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What Goes Around Comes Around’s wool and leather

vest, Calvin Klein’s wool jacket, Canterbury of New Zealand’s cotton shirt and Vince’s cotton pants. Red

Wing Shoes boots.

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Woolrich Woolen Mills’ wool vest, Victorinox’s nylon

jacket, Howe’s cotton shirt and Gilded Age’s cotton

pants. Mark McNairy shoes.

T h e W o r l d ’ s P r e m i e r F a b r i c S h o w ™ / F r o m T u e s d a y 9 t o F r i d a y 1 2 F e b r u a r y 2 0 1 0

P a r c d ’ E x p o s i t i o n s P a r i s - N o r d V i l l e p i n t e F r a n c e / F R A N C E L I G N E / Te l . : ( 1 ) 2 0 3 6 9 8 7 4 5 9

p r e m i e r e v i s i o n @ f r a n c e l i g n e . c o m / w w w . p r e m i e r e v i s i o n . f r

A t r a n s f o r m e d s h o w , a w h i t e c i t y , i l l u m i n a t i n g t h e b e s t i n t e x t i l e c r e a t i v i t y .

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J. Lindeberg’s wool suit, Diesel’s cotton undershirt and Hurley’s cotton shirt. Billy Reid boots.

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From the Pompous to a PrinceEmbracing technology and updating classics while retaining quality

are among the inspriations for top European designers for fall.

INSPIRATIONSMILAN

fall 2010

“A contemporary collection that uses Milan for an on-the-road experience, in an urban jaunt that is the set for a performance of style and elegance. The juxtaposition and layering of single elements create a new silhouette, an elegant and comfortable cocoon that regroups all the themes of the Missoni world, mixing them with classic masculine tailoring.”

— Angela Missoni, Missoni

“The sophisticated image of the Prince of Wales, tweeds and cozy coats are mixed with the rural and aristocratic elegance of Saint Petersburg. Reinterpreted with an Italian sartorial flair and with the style of a house that transforms this initial idea into technological solutions and elongated, vertical silhouettes.”

— Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, Gianfranco Ferré

“Boys just want to have fun!” — Rossella Jardini, Moschino

“The free spirit of the adventurous gauchos and the solitude of the Argentine pampas, mixed with wastelands and the blues skies at the horizon. This is the new world of Salvatore Ferragamo.”— Massimiliano Giornetti, Salvatore Ferragamo Uomo

“We started the design process looking at a futuristic tailoring concept and paired it with a reverse-engineered construction. We wanted to offer a highly styled collection that was created using the ultimate technology.”

— Alessandro Sartori, Z Zegna

“A grand and petit prince searching for beauty, who through the eyes of the owl is able to look beyond.”

— Kean Etro, Etro

“It’s important to be more clean in the way one dresses without being boring. One has to elaborate a personal style to stand out, one that should be more country-style than flashy — dare replace a white shirt with a checkered one at lunch.”

— Ermanno Scervino

“The main feature of the autumn-winter 2010 collection is ‘evolution’ through different elements: silhouette, cut, style and creativity for both the metropolitan man who follows trends and a more sophisticated, romantic man.”

— Elisabetta Canali, Canali

“A redefinition of today’s silhouettes and looks through craftsmanship, precious materials, love and innovation — to achieve true value. Traditional and conservative elements that over decades became symbols and elements of youthful rebellion — checks, pinstripes, uniforms — are re-created with craftsmanship in precious materials to create a new sophisticated interpretation.”

— Roberto Cavalli

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By Samantha Conti

TOUGH TIMES CALL FOR POWERFUL MEN, PROTECTIVE GEAR AND A LOT OF attitude — and that’s just what Pringle designer Claire Waight Keller is plotting for fall.

“There’s a masculine ruggedness to the surfaces of this collection. I’m looking at a very strong man — not a fragile boyishness,” said the designer during a walk-through at Pringle’s showroom here. For the Milan show, she said she’s casting “strong-boned

models with brawn — men who fill out the clothes.”For fall, knitwear works double-time as outerwear in the form of weighty double-

breasted peacoats, wool and cashmere bombers with kilt-inspired buckles, cozy sweat-er jackets with detachable nylon shells, and pullovers with hooks and zip fastenings. Knitwear even moonlights as tailored clothing, as in one structured jacket with a knitted face and felted wool interior, or another with a similar knitted face and tartan plaid embroidery on the inside.

Textures are rough and tactile: some hand-knit sweaters are snagged and laddered down the sleeves or the front, echoing Waight Keller’s women’s designs for spring, while others are a distressed blend of cashmere and mohair. Others still boast giant,

Pringle’s Power Statement for Men

“There’s a masculine ruggedness to the surfaces of this collection. I’m looking at a very strong man — not a fragile boyishness. ”

— Clair Waight Keller, Pringle

Looks from the upcoming fall collection.

WWD.COM

17WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 14, 2010

bumpy argyle patterns. Smooth surfaces work their way into the collection, too, in the form of fine-gauge knits deftly overembroi-dered with chunky yarns.

The muted color palette is inspired by artists such as Joseph Beuys and Charles Rennie Mackintosh, said Waight Keller, who worked in shades of stone, moss, bleached-out grays, mustard and rust.

The knits are clearly the alpha males of this collec-tion, which also features tai-lored clothing that is softly structured and lightweight.

There are pajamalike shirts with fully detachable collars, abstract scribble print shirts and others made from cotton faille. Featherweight suits have border piping that runs down the side of the legs and along the jacket lapels — details of British regimental origin. Dark velvet jackets have white poplin linings.

The British brand will show its fall collection at Circolo Filologico Milanese, not far from La Scala, and the show will kick off with a short animated fi lm by the Scottish artist David Shrigley.

Shrigley, known for his naïf, colorful cartoons, has

created window displays for Pringle and designed posters inspired by the twin set that went on display during London Fashion Week in September.

His three-and-a-half-minute fi lm is narrated by a proud and outspoken Scottish granny character who loves handmade sweaters, loathes skinny models and thinks Pringle is the only true knitwear-maker on the planet.

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Black Fleece Readies Milan DebutIT’S TIME FOR BLACK FLEECE’S CLOSE-UP.

The Thom Browne-designed label for Brooks Brothers will make its debut to retail-ers during a stand-alone presentation Tuesday at the 10 Corso Como specialty store-gallery space in Milan.

Browne will unveil his interpretation of iconic Brooks Bros. offerings such as the mis-matched wool tattersall suit and cashmere cardigan with a matching wool bow tie. Other key looks for fall will include a repp stripe in woven and knit fabrics, Browne said. The designer will offer 12 styles each for men and women, but may edit the number of women’s looks at the presentation to concentrate on men’s wear during fashion week.

For Browne, the opportunity to show Black Fleece in Europe is a testament to the evo-lution of the collection, which launched at Brooks Bros. in fall 2007.

“It’s good to see the collection succeed-ing, and a great opportunity for many of the European editors and buyers to see it,” he said.

Browne expects the “quintessential piec-es that are derived from iconic Brooks Bros. styles” will be the most popular with stores across the pond.

Lou Amendola, chief merchandising officer for Brooks Bros., said the collection, which was initially focused on men’s suits, shirts and ties, has grown significantly in the past two years and now offers a comprehensive sports-wear offering as well.

“It’s really a sportswear collection that has clothing,” he said. Women’s, which Amendola

expects to appeal to overseas buyers, has been improved and is “more feminine and flowing.”

Price points for men’s and women’s are also more friendly, he said.

Amendola said opening up the collection to selective wholesale accounts in Europe came about after the company realized Black Fleece could stand on its own outside of Brooks stores. The first Black Fleece store opened on Bleecker Street in lower Manhattan last year, and a second is to open on Fillmore Street in San Francisco next month.

“We have experienced a double-digit in-crease over plan in the first year on Bleecker Street,” Amendola said. “That exceeded our expectations.”

At the same time, he said Brooks Bros. re-ceived inquiries from other retailers — Corso Como and Biffi in Milan and Tomorrowland in Japan — expressing interest in carrying the Black Fleece line.

“So we said, ‘Let’s take the opportunity to show the collection,’” Amendola said, not-ing Brooks Bros. is also exploring the idea of opening additional freestanding stores and shop-in-shop concepts around the world.

After the Milan presentation, Black Fleece will be shown to European and Asian retailers in a showroom at Via Alessandra, 3 in Milan from Jan. 21 through Feb. 15.

In the U.S., Black Fleece shirts and ties are carried in Neiman Marcus, the only other distribution outside of Brooks Bros. and the Bleecker Street store.

— Jean E. Palmieri

A look from the fall collection.

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From the runways of

Milan Fashion Week to

the halls of Pitti Uomo,

Italian brands are showing they

can respond to consumers’ demand

for quality and innovation with

elegant yet casual silhouettes

in classic fabrics that ref lect

technological advances. In short,

“Made in Italy” apparel has never

been in a stronger position.

ITALSERVICES S.P.A.

The Veneto-based Italservices Spa – with

capabilities in design, production and

distribution – is the driving force behind a

group of contemporary clothing and denim

brands set to enter the U.S this Fall. Their

portfolio includes Met in Jeans, Cycle,

Heavy Project, IT’S and British cult brand

Fake London, which is set for an international

re-launch in the Fall.

“We think the American market is ready

for our type of product because it’s a market

that appreciates Made in Italy products,” said

Moreno Giuriato, Italservices S.P.A. chairman.

Some of the company’s most important

offerings include:

“ Despite the weak economy, Italian designers continue to preserve their nation’s traditions by creating products of unsurpassed excellence.

In today’s market, they know it is crucial to offer the highest level of design, quality and artistry in order to make certain Italy remains a symbol of fashion worldwide.

I strongly believe that experienced shoppers will continue to seek the superior value typical of Made in Italy designs.

”

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Aniello Musella Executive Director for the Italian Trade Commission in the U.S.

33 East 67th Street, New York, NY 10065

Tel: 212.980.1500 Fax: 212.758.1050

[email protected] www.italtrade.com

A Passionate Commitment to Quality

ITALSERVICES

ITALSERVICES

Made in Italy Means More Today Than Ever

BORSALINO

SARTORIA CALVARESIBRESCIANI

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www.cycleonweb.com

[email protected]

www.heavyproject.it

[email protected]

www.itsonweb.com

[email protected]

www.metonweb.com

[email protected]

www.fakelondon.com

[email protected]

ITALSERVICES s.p.a.

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OO ALLEGRIrainwear and outerwear

DISMI 92VIA LIMITESE, 10650059 VINCI (FI)T. + 39.0571.758201F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:PROJECT 0225 WEST 36TH STREET 7TH FLOORNEW YORK, NY 10018T. 917.346.2449 CONTACT: TOM TARRICONE [email protected]

OO�ALPETORA/G. MANZONI tailored clothing, pants, outerwear, accessories

I.T.N.VIA MOTTOLA, KM. 2,200 Z.I.74015 MARTINA FRANCA (TA)T. + 39.080.4851111F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:ALPETORA IMPORTS INC.3611 14TH AVENUE, 5TH FLOORBROOKLYN, NY 11218T. 718.871.8722F. 718.871.8757CONTACT: ELI [email protected]

O�ALTEAneckwear, scarves, knitwear

ALTEA S.R.L.VIA MORANDI, 420016 PERO (MI)T. + 39.02.36570301F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:PULL & CO. DESIGNS305 W. 50TH STREET, # 17GNEW YORK, NY 10019T. 212.813.0456F. 212.813.0471CONTACT: GENE BEOLA, LOU BONANZIO, BOB SEGEL, ERIC SEGEL, DAVID MCINTYRE [email protected]

O�ASTER - GRAVATIdress and sport shirts, handcrafted shoes

ASTER S.R.L.CAMICERIAVIA GIOVANNI FANTIN, 27/A31035 CIANO DEL MONTELLO (TV)T. + 39.0423.84169F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:INTERNATIONAL ATTIRE159 WEST 53RD STREET, # 17BNEW YORK, NY 10019T. 212.957.9466F. 212.581.0687CONTACT: BARBARA ROCHE, JOSEPHINE RUSSO [email protected]

OO�BORSALINOhats, caps, headwear

BORSALINO GIUSEPPE & F.LLO S.P.A.ZONA INDUSTRIALE D515047 ALESSANDRIA (AL)T. + 39.0131.214211F. + [email protected]

US OFFICE:BORSALINO AMERICA INC.310 FIFTH AVENUE, MEZZANINENEW YORK, NY 10001T. 212.279.6555F. 212.279.6330CONTACT: GIUSEPPE [email protected]

OO�BRERA MILANOtailored clothing, knitwear, shirts

BRERA MILANO S.R.L.VIA XXV APRILE, 1520060 CASSINA DE PECCHI (MI)T. + 39.335.6121697F. + [email protected]

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OO�DALMINEknitwear

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OO�D’AVENZA tailored suits, sport coats,formalwear, outerwear

D’AVENZA FASHION S.P.A.VIA AURELIA, 2254033 AVENZA CARRARA (MS)T. + 39.0585.50781F. + [email protected]

US OFFICE:D’AVENZA USA260 BEACON STREETBOSTON, MA 02116T. 857.350.3851F. 857.350.3852CONTACT: WILLIAM [email protected]@DAVENZA.ITWWW.DAVENZA.IT

OO�DOLCEPUNTA extraordinary neckwear

DOLCEPUNTA S.R.L.STRADA V.B. MAZZOCCO, 1565125 PESCARA (PE)T. + 39.085.4175638F. + 39.085.414304 CONTACT: ROLANDO SCAPELLATO, MASSIMO [email protected]

US AGENT:LUCIANO MORESCO161 WEST 61ST STREET, # 1 SOUTHNEW YORK, N.Y. 10023T. 212.397.4300F. 212.658.9163CONTACT: LUCIANO [email protected]

O�DONATIleather outerwear

CONFEZIONI DONATIVIA CIRO MENOTTI, 53 - LOC.LECCIO50066 REGGELLO (FI)T. + 39.055.865.7668F. + 39.055.865.7686CONTACT: CHRISTOPHER [email protected]

US AGENT:INTERNATIONAL ATTIRE159 WEST 53RD STREET, # 17BNEW YORK, NY 10019T. 212.957.9466F. 212.581.0687CONTACT: BARBARA ROCHE, JOSEPHINE [email protected]

OO�FERRANTEknitwear

AMEDEO FERRANTE S.R.L.VIA PO’, 40 Z. IND.LE SAMBUCETO66020 SAN GIOVANNI TEATINO (CH)T. + 39.085.446.5928F. + 39.085.440.9841CONTACT: EDOARDO DI [email protected]

US AGENT:ANGELA LIBANI 44 W. 56TH STREET, 3RD FLOORNEW YORK, N.Y. 10019T. 917.400.4909F. 212.758.6671CONTACT: ANGELA [email protected]

OO�GIMO’Sleather and shearling

GIMO’S ITALIANA S.P.A.VIA MONTE BIANCO, 135018 SAN MARTINO DI LUPARI (PD)T. + 39.049.9467000F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:TUSCANY & CO.44 WEST 56TH STREET, # 3RD FLOORNEW YORK, NY 10019T. 212.307.1258F. 212.307.0418CONTACT: ANTHONY DI CAPUA, WILLIAM [email protected]

O�GRAN SASSO knitwear

MAGLIFICIO GRAN SASSOVIA ISAAC NEWTON, 264016 SANT’EGIDIO ALLA VIBRATA (TE)T. + 39.0861.8460F. + 39.0861.841070CONTACT: PIERLUIGI [email protected]

US AGENT:COMPONENTS BY JOHN MC.COY20 WEST 55TH STREETNEW YORK, NY 10019T. 212.969.9683 EXT.15F. 212.581.3980CONTACT: SANDRA GREAVES, PINO [email protected]

OO�HETTABRETZ outerwear

HETTABTRETZ S.P.A.VIA EMILIA PONENTE, 13040133 BOLOGNA (BO) T. + 39.051.3145311F. + 39.051.3140623CONTACT: ROBERTO [email protected]

OO�ITALO FERRETTI neckwear, silk accessories, fragrance

SANTO STEFANO DI ITALO FERRETTI S.R.L.VIA NAZIONALE ADRIATICA SUD, 17764029 SILVI MARINA (TE)T. + 39.085.9352700F. + 39.085.9351905CONTACT: CARLO [email protected] WWW.ITALOFERRETTI.IT

US OFFICE:SANTO STEFANO USA INC.660 BERGEN BLVD.RIDGEFIELD, NJ 07657T. 201.945.2434 F. 201.945.2436CONTACT: CARLO FERRETTI, FEDERICO [email protected]

OO�LUCIANO MORESCO corporate, casual and contemporary shirts

CONFEZIONI GALLIA S.R.L.VIA VILLETTA, 7935015 GALLIERA VENETA (PD)T. + 39.049.9470686F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:LUCIANO MORESCO161 WEST 61ST STREET, # 1 SOUTHNEW YORK, N.Y. 10023T. 212.397.4300F. 212.658.9163CONTACT: LUCIANO MORESCO, GIOVANNA [email protected]

O�LUIGI BIANCHI MANTOVA topcoats, outerwear, "hybrid" jackets, overcoats, rain wear. Softly tailored coats, suits, sportcoats, formalwear, pants, neckwear, in-stock program & made to measure.

LUBIAM MODA PER L’UOMO S.P.A.VIALE FIUME, 5546100 MANTOVA (MN)T. + 39.0376.309399 F. + 39.0376.309325CONTACT: ANDREA [email protected]

US OFFICE:LUBIAM USA37 WEST 57TH STREET, # 1000NEW YORK, NY T. 212.755.0737F. 212.755.0917CONTACT: LOUIS COSTA, JOHN [email protected]

O�MABRO BY MOVIESTailored suits

MOVIES S.P.A.VIA SENESE, 19558100GROSSETO (GR) T. + 39.0564.467211F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:PULL & CO. DESIGNS305 W. 50TH STREET, # 17GNEW YORK, NY 10019T. 212.813.0456F. 212.813.0471CONTACT: GENE BEOLA, LOU [email protected]

OO�MARCOLIANI MILANOhigh quality hosiery

CALZIFICIO ITALIANO S.R.L.VIA VERDI, 6820034 PAINA DI GIUSSANO (MI)T. + 39.0362.860646F. + 39.0362.311016 T. 866.211.0593CONTACT: PAOLO GATTI [email protected]

OO��MONTECHIARO,MAREMMA, NAZARENOGABRIELLIknitwear

MAGLIFICIO LILIANA SNC.VIA MADONNINA, 18/2425018 MONTICHIARI (BS) T. + 39.030.9962456F. + 39.030.9961668CONTACT: AGOSTINO [email protected]

US OFFICE:MONTECHIARO USA LLC.C/O 462 SEVENTH AVENUE - 23RD FL.NEW YORK, NY 10018 T. + 39.030.9962456C. 646.520.5844F. + 39.030.9961668CUSTOMERSERVICE@MONTECHIAROUSA.COMWWW.MONTECHIAROUSA.COM

OO�NANIBONcontemporary sportswear, knitwear, casual shirts, outerwear, golfwear

FUZZI S.P.A.VIA AL MARE, 14347842 SAN GIOVANNI IN MARIGNANO (RN)T. + 39.0541.965.811F. + 39.0541.956.400CONTACT: BARBARA [email protected]

US AGENT:BLUE ARROW INC.220 NEWPORT CENTER DRIVE, # 11-351NEWPORT BEACH, CA 92660T. 949.637.1275F. 949.362.0234CONTACT: DICK [email protected]

OO�NOVASETAfine Italian neckwear

NOVASETA S.P.A.VIA GALIMBERTI, 1813900 BIELLA (BI)T. + 39.015.84800F. + [email protected]

U.S./ CANADA AGENT: ABBEY NECKWEAR LTD.5605 RUE DE GASPÉ, # 701MONTREAL, QC 82PH2T-2A4T. 514.271.1112C. 514.436.8046F. 514.271.6690CONTACT: JIN [email protected]

OO�VITALIANO PANCALDIneckwear, accessories

VITALIANO PANCALDI S.R.L.VIA LAPIDARI, 1540129 BOLOGNA (BO)T. + 39.051.323220F. + 39.051.323457 [email protected]


OO�PAVONE handmade silk ties, formalwear

LABORATORIO SANTINAVIA DEL DOSSO, 1022040 ALZATE BRIANZA (CO)T. + 39.031.632433F. + [email protected]

US OFFICE:LPAVONE INC.5755 HORTON STREETEMERYVILLE, CA 94608T. 800.645.0237T. 510.655.3710F. 510.655.8062CONTACT: ROBERTO GALLETTI, GEORGE [email protected] WWW.PAVONEINC.COM

OO�PEROFILunderwear, socks, pajamas, loungewear

PEROFIL S.P.A.VIA ZANICA, 1424126 BERGAMO (BG)T. + 39.035.319333F. + 39.035.319408CONTACT: MAURIZIO [email protected]


OO PIERLUIGI DELLA SPINA/THE SAMPSONSouterwear, knitwear, sportswear

CONFEZIONI BENETTI SASVIA UGO VAGLIA, 925085 GAVARDO (BS)T. + 39.0365.31881F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:THE SAMPSON INC.333 EAST 102ND STREET, # 806NEW YORK, NY 10029T. 212.828.5688CONTACT: CATHY [email protected]

�

O�RAYMOND INTERNATIONAL/ROBERTO ZANIERIsuits, sportcoats, trousers, tuxedos

SUD STYLEVIA CHIANCARO, 3/D - Z. IND.LE74015 MARTINA FRANCA (TA)T. + 39.080.4856565 F. + 39.080.4855015 [email protected]@LIBERO.IT

US OFFICE:RAYMOND INTERNATIONAL5251 N. POWERLINE ROADFT. LAUDERDALE, FL 33309T. 954.491.3611 X11F. 954.491.3680CONTACT: RAYMOND A. [email protected]

OO�REPORTER– INGRAMtotal look

IN.PRO.DI INGHIRAMI PRODUZIONE E DISTRIBUZIONECORSO DI PORTA ROMANA, 320122 MILANO (MI)T. + 39.02.8063141F. + [email protected]

US OFFICE:CANTONI ITC USA INC.270 LAFAYETTE STREET, # 810NEW YORK, NY 10012T. 212.245.4015F. 212.265.6718CONTACT: EMANUELE PIOMBINO, FRANCESCO [email protected]

OO�VALSTAR outerwear, rainwear, sports coats, leathercoats

VALSTAR S.P.A.VIA MARCO BIAGI, 646031 BAGNOLO SAN VITO (MN) T. + 39.0376.415726F. + 39.0376.251686CONTACT: ANTONELLA [email protected]

OO�VIGANÒdress and casual trousers

COBOR S.P.A.VIA ISONZO, 820050 ZOCCORINO BRIANZA (MI)T. + 39.0362.994353F. + 39.0362.942114CONTACT: EDOARDO [email protected]


OO��YASHI YAMAMURI/ITAL WEAR dress and casual shirts, pants, outerwear, shoes

ACTIVE GROUP S.R.L.VIA P.UGO FRASCACTR. COMM. IL PARCO, 466013 CHIETI SCALO (CH)T. + 39.0871.540003F. + [email protected]

US AGENT:ITAL WEAR INC.45630 PRIMROSE COURTPLYMOUTH, MI 48170T. 734.207.0441F. 734.207.1644CONTACT. TARCISIO [email protected]

Visit us at MRKET NEW YORK, January 18–20 at the Javits Center and MRKET LAS VEGAS, February 16–18 at the Venetian Hotel

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: ITALIAN TRADE COMMISSION 33 East 67th Street, New York, NY 10065

TEL: 212.980.1500 FAX: 212.758.1050 E-MAIL: [email protected] WEBSITE: www.italtrade.com

O�Participating in Las Vegas O�Participating in New York

Baku - Beijing - Beirut - Cannes - Capri - Doha - Dubai - Firenze - Geneva - Hong Kong - Istanbul - Kiev - Kuwait City - London - Los Angeles Macao - Manama - Marbella - Milano - Montecarlo - Moscow - Munchen - Paris - Porto Cervo - Roma - Seoul - Tallinn - Torino - Wien www.gianfrancoferre.com

25WWD, THURSDAY, JANUARY 14, 2010

SECTION II WWD.COM


PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO

Market to Market With six men’s trade shows starting in New York on Sunday and Monday, retailers have a multitude of fall collections to shop. Here are 10 brands showcasing new or notable offerings.

By David Lipke and Brenner Thomas

Reyn Spooner (Capsule)Gordon Thompson 3rd’s résumé includes seven years as creative director at Cole Haan and 13 years as creative director at Nike. Now, the noted designer is working on a much smaller project: the relaunch of the Reyn Spooner label, founded in 1956 as a maker of upscale Hawaiian shirts.

“I grew up with this label living in San Diego, and there’s so much heritage and story behind it,” said Thompson, who splits his time between Honolulu, where Reyn Spooner is based, and Los Angeles. “Our goal is to up-date the brand, with new fits and a contempo-rary attitude. We’re keeping the Hawaii vibe but making it modern, injecting a little bit of East Coast prep and making it appropriate for places like the Hamptons, Palm Beach, Nantucket and South Beach.”

Thompson was tapped last year to help reinvent Reyn Spooner by Wedbush Capital Partners, a Los Angeles-based private equity firm that acquired a controlling stake in the brand in 2008 from Tim McCullough, son of brand founder Reyn McCullough. The deal also included Reyn’s, a string of men’s wear shops on the Hawaiian islands.

Thompson has access to an archive of more than 2,000 original Reyn Spooner print designs, incorporating them into a tightly edited collection of long- and short-sleeve shirts, shorts, pants and swimsuits. For fall, the lineup includes tropical weight-corduroy tops, in Monsterra leaf prints or “Kapa Poho Poho” designs, which means “crazy quilt.”

“Everything retails for between $75 and $100,” Thompson said. “This is fun, easy product that can get guys excited about shopping again.”

Veilance Arc’teryx (Capsule)Known for its high-performance outerwear, Arc’teryx last year launched a fashion-oriented collection for everyday city wear under the Veilance Arc’teryx name. For fall, the company is debuting at Capsule to expand the line’s distribution beyond e-commerce and the one specialty store account it has: The Tannery in Boston.

“The Veilance Arc’teryx collection features cleanly engineered, highly technical designs with the best-quality materials,” said Kate Paterson, spe-cial projects manager at Vancouver-based Arc’teryx. (The brand was named after the Archaeopteryx Lithographica, the first reptile to develop feathers for flight.)

For fall, the line encompasses about 25 styles, including base layers, shirts, pants, jackets, blazers and coats, all in a minimally designed aesthet-ic and many in Gore-Tex fabric. Prices range from about $175 for a T-shirt to $1,000 for a field jacket.

Arc’teryx is owned by Helsinki-based Amer Sports Corp.

King Baby (Project)Jewelry maker King Baby launched an apparel collection last year and in its second season will show an Americana-themed lineup of hoodies, T-shirts, henleys and leather jackets for fall. The range encompasses King Baby’s rock ’n’ roll vibe and features sterling silver hardware, such as zipper pulls, on many pieces.

“Think about old American diners and big American cars,” said Mitchell Binder, founder and owner of King Baby. “That’s the vibe on the graphic treatments this season.”

Binder has been careful to keep the apparel portion of his business tightly centered. “We’re new at this, so we are keeping the line focused,” he explained. It has been picked up by about 30 stores for spring, including Neiman Marcus, Holt Renfrew, Lisa Kline and Revolveclothing.com.

T-shirts retail for $75 to $120, hoodies are $210 and a leather jacket goes for as much as $1,500, with the prices affected by the silver embellishments.

In the core jewelry collection, look for the unlikely combination of luxe rosary necklaces fashioned from onyx and sterling silver, as well as pendants in the form of bullet casings. Average prices in the jewelry collection are about $450.

Founded in 2000, Santa Monica, Calif.-based King Baby gen-erates about $8 million in sales annually, Binder said.

DKNY (Vanguard)Last fall, DKNY offered sportswear inspired by military uni-forms. For 2010, the brand is heading off base to the great out-

doors, where traditional hunting style meets the technical slick of winter sports.

Cue performance outerwear, like quilted parkas, jackets and over-shirts, paired with country mouse tweeds, oilskins and plaids. “It’s a very New York City way of dressing, mixing outdoor performance wear with city suits and sportswear,” said Ken MacMillan, design di-rector for DKNY.

Versatility is also a key trend for value-obsessed consumers, and DKNY is stepping up its offering of transitional outerwear with zip-out vests and liners, as well as reversible sweaters, shirts and jackets.

The brand will make its debut at Vanguard, the MRket NY spin-off catering to contemporary brands, where it will exhibit tailored cloth-ing, outerwear, dress shirts and ties, in addition to both and black label sportswear.

Sharps (ENK)After a two-year hibernation, Sharps is looking to renew its part-nerships with independent stores at ENK New York as part of that event’s first showcase for men’s grooming products.

The brand, which made its name in 2002 as a premium skin care and hair care line with a no-fuss attitude, was a leader in the men’s grooming movement. But a diffusion line for Target a few years later diluted the brand’s premium image — one its new owners, led by Brit Rory MacParland, want to restore.

Since purchasing Sharps in April 2008, MacParland, the company’s chief executive officer and president, has focused on U.K. expansion, opening stand-alone barbershops and partnering with Topshop.

Now Sharps is setting its sights on the U.S. It’s out of Target and is hon-ing in on the better men’s retail seg-ment with a range of core and refor-mulated products, MacParland said. At ENK, the brand will debut a scrub, body bar and a range of T-shirts. “We think there is still a major opportuni-ty to upgrade men to midrange, pre-mium grooming products by putting them next to where they buy their jackets or jeans,” he added.

Ike Behar (MRket)This memorably frigid January in New York City is likely a good time to launch an outerwear collection. Ike Behar will do just that when it returns to MRket this season with an expansive line of coats that echo the classic American luxury of the brand’s dress shirts.

Produced under license by Harbour International, the line tends to gentlemanly classics with nine key styles, each of which is available in a variety of fabrications and trims, as in the classic car coat, cut in either Italian leather, coated cotton, Loro Piana storm system or cashmere.

Behar will also show tailored shorter topcoats, hybrid blazers, sys-tems jackets and a peacoat — all with elegant custom interiors.

These heavier pieces are balanced with items suited for warmer climes, as in the lightweight Napa lambskin vest with

merino wool back — it weighs 2 pounds — and coats made in moleskin and cotton twills.

Behar’s inaugural outerwear collection, totaling 55 stockkeeping units, retails between $395 and $995, with shearlings closer to $2,000.

Wet Cement (Project)Founded in 2007 by Andrew Lee and Stef Zeh, Wet Cement has become a key fashion T-shirt resource at Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom, along with specialty retailers such as Atrium, Universal Gear and National Jean Co. The designs, which start at $69 and can go as high as $200, feature screened-printed photos and mes-sages the duo manipulate via a creative process involving heated halogen bulbs, a bathtub and a garden hose.

“It’s all done by hand, and everything’s made in L.A.,” said Lee, a former president of the 575 denim label.

At Project, the company will introduce a lower-priced line under the Cement label, with T’s retailing for $29. “This collection is targeted towards the surf and skate

Reyn Spooner

Jack Victor

Ike Behar

Continued on page 26

SECTION II WWD.COM



crowd with an edgier look, whereas the main Wet Cement line is more about being fresh and fun, with bright colors,” Lee said.

Wet Cement has also created the official T-shirt for Project staffers this season.

Jack Victor (MRket)The casual influence in tailored clothing has emigrated from Italy to Canada, where Jack Victor has been making increasingly soft and informal jackets. There may be no better example than its Casual Friday Suit — an ironic riff on the trend that decimated the suit business in the Nineties — which is debuting at MRket. The new model has the hallmarks of relaxed tailoring: thin canvas and shoulder components, patch pocket and self-cloth elbow patch. Item-driven sport coats, including wool corduroy jackets and evening-ready velvet jackets, will also be key components to the fall collection.

Bottoms brand Riviera will also be exhibiting with Jack Victor — a first since the latter purchased the trouser resource last summer. The Canadian brand will highlight a new range of fancy and plaid slacks in its best label, Riviera Black, and will introduce a new traveler trouser in its Blue line.

Folk (Capsule)Casual, understated sportswear with a focus on color, fabrics and design details are the selling points of London-based Folk, which will show at Capsule for the second time this season.

“We have classic silhouettes, but I think we pay more attention to color and subtle details, like the Carozo buttons on our shirts, than other brands,” said Fraser Shand, managing director of the company.

Founded as a men’s label by Cathal McAteer in 2001, Folk operates two free-standing stores in London and wholesales to about 150 accounts worldwide, in-cluding a handful of U.S. doors such as Douglas Fir, Odin, Bblessing and Ian.

Folk shirts retail from $150 to $250; knitwear from $180 to $500; pants from $180 to $220. and jackets from $350 to $500.

The brand’s biggest markets are the U.K., Scandinavia, The Netherlands and Italy, but the company hopes to grow the U.S business to 20 to 30 stores. “The U.S. is a new market for us, but we’ve gotten a good response from Americans to our e-commerce site,” Shand said.

The company also operates a men’s and women’s footwear brand called Shofolk, which launched in 2004.

Ben Sherman (ENK)Ben Sherman’s love affair with rock ’n’ roll continues next season with a capsule collection inspired by British punk-ska veterans Madness, the London-based band best known for the single “Our House.” The seven-piece collection consists of a Harrington jacket; three sport shirts; a pique Polo with the Madness logo, and two T-shirts using iconic graphics from the band’s history.

The U.K. company will also be tempting specialty store buyers with a fall col-lection inflected by the British outdoors and on-trend workwear styles.

Look for gingham and herringbone shirts that reverse, washed chambray but-ton-downs and plenty of conductor stripes. Layered looks abound, said global creative director Mark Maidment, via chunky fisherman knits in twisted marble yarns and functional outerwear like the new slim duffle coat, and cropped parka with detachable sherpa lining.

Ben ShermanMarket to MarketContinued from page 25

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