Self-Enclosed Seamsand finishes
Definition• A seam is made when two or more layers of fabric are stitched
together.• A finish prevents raveling and fraying.• Self-Enclosed Seam is a seam in which the raw edge is not
exposed but instead is enclosed within the seam.• Disadvantage: may be bulky.• Advantage: clean, finished professional look; will hold up better
during the laundry process.
Types of Self-Enclosed Seams and finishes
• Flat-Felled Seam• Double-Stitched Seam• Turned and Stitched Seam• ZigZag Finish• Machine Overedge• French Seam
Flat-Felled Seam• Used in sportswear
and children’s clothing because it is a tough and durable seam.• Shows on the right
side of garment.• Examples:• Jeans• Casual slacks• Shirts and blouses
Double-Stitched Seam• Used on knit fabrics
because of the strength and to prevent knits from curling.• Two rows of stitching.• Straight stitch• Zigzag• Overedge
• Examples:• Jeans and pants
Turned and Stitched Seam• Used on light to
medium fabric; seam may be visible.• Examples:• Blouses• Unlined jackets
ZigZag Finish• Used in medium to
heavy fabrics which may ravel.• Can be used on any
seam to enclose the raw edge.
Machine Overedge• Used for medium to
heavy fabric.• Helps prevent fraying
and raveling as well as hide the raw edges.• Produces strong yet
stretchy seams on knit fabrics.
French Seam• Used for sheer and
light weight fabrics, as well as medium weight fabrics.• Examples:• Blouses• Slacks
French Seam directionsStep One
• After cutting fabric from pattern….• Place fabric wrong
sides together and pin
Step Two• Using a straight
stitch, sew a ¼” seam on the notched edge.• Backstitch at the
beginning and the end.
Step Three• Trim seam to 1/8”
width.• Why trim?• Less bulky• Fibers do not poke
through seam
Step Four• Fold right sides
together.• Press seam to edge.
Step Five• Sew 3/8” from seam
edge, backstitch at the beginning and the end.• This will enclose the
raw edge from the first seam sewn in step two.
Step Six• Press to one side.• Admire your
professional French seam!• Staple French seam
sample to your worksheet for a grade.
Now it’s time for you to sew a French seam• Row 1 and Table 1 will need the following supplies:• Seam Sample worksheet, with your 1st seam sample completed before
fall break.• Fabric and pattern – found on ironing board in back of classroom.• Tote tray• Bobbin case• Shears• Thread and test your machine• Pin fabric to pattern and cut• Wait for Mrs. Hansen to demonstrate the French Seam
• Row 2 and Table 2 will have a demonstration first.• After demonstration, collect the supplies above • Thread and test your machine• Start on your French seam
• Once French Seam is completed…• Staple to Seam Samples worksheet with 1st seam sample and place on
Mrs. Moeller’s desk.
Videos• Turned and Stitched Seam• http://youtu.be/3jpUrBatj3I
• ZigZag• http://youtu.be/T7Jy5kC1pro
• Flat-Felled Seam• http://youtu.be/OfJ3XI8z_tg
Summary• What is a seam?• What is a French Seam?• Why would you use a French Seam?• Some students will be starting the French seam on their pillow
cases….