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SEMINAR ON TEXTILE FINISHING
Aastha Singh12tt001
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INTRODUCTION
Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing.
Finishing involves subjecting the textile material to different physical and chemical treatments, so as to impart required functional properties to it.
For example wash and wear finish for a cotton fabric is necessary to make it crease free or wrinkle free.
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IMPORTANCE
To improve fabric attractiveness. To improve serviceability. To give desirable qualities to fabric. To improve the feel of the fabric. To cover faults in the original fabric. To improve wearing qualities of fabric by making it shrink
or crease resistant. To set garment shape. E.g. Durable press.[4]
To import special properties to the fabric for special end uses such as waterproofing, flame-proofing etc.
To strengthen the fabric by coating or laminating. To produce novelty effects e.g. organdie fabrics by
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CLASSIFICATIONACCORDING TO FUNCTION
Aesthetic finishes
Functional finishes
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Functional Finishes improve the performance properties of the fabric ; like durability, strength etc.
Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
Crease resistant Durable Press Flame Resistant Mothproof Shrinkage Control Soil Release Water Proof/Repellant
Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and /or hand or drape of the fabrics.[5]
Mercerization Napping And Sueding Shearing Softening Stiffening
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MERCERIZATION
Mercerization is a treatment for cotton that gives fabric a lustrous appearance.
Alters the chemical structure of the cotton fiber. The structure of the fiber changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose.
Results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fiber. This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and gives the fiber a softer feel.
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Improves dye absorbency . Mercerization becomes necessary for
darker shades as it improves dye absorbency.
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NAPPING
It is a mechanical finish. Fibers are raised from woven/knitted
fabrics by rotating, bristled, wire covered brushes.
Overall effect is raised fibers from fabric surface.
Napped fabrics have softer handle. Better insulation properties due to more
air entrapment. Mainly used as blankets, winter clothing.
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1: roller2: rollers equipped with hooks3: fabric4: nib cleaning brushes5: fabric tension adjustment
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Napped fabrics
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SUEDING
It is a mechanical finish.
Similar to napping.
Produces a soft, suede-like surface.
Sand paper like material is used instead of rotating wire covered cylinder.
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Suede fabrics
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STIFFENING
• Forming a film on the surface of a fiber influences the touch of the product and has a stiffening effect.
• Stiffening agents1. Starches – finishing of cotton cloth. Ex:
potato , wheat, corn.2. Dextrines – used for dyed and printed
fabrics. No undue effect on the dye or print.3. Natural gum – mainly used in printing as
well as finishing process.4. Resins
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Acid stiffening Fine yarn cotton fabrics can be
finished to be both stiff and transparent by this process.
It involves rapid immersion in sulphuric acid, followed by immediate neutralization in sodium hydroxide.
The finish is permanent. This finish is also known as Organdi finish or Parchmentisation.AE
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SOFTENING
Required for more pleasant hand and better drapeability.
Fabrics are harsher and stiffer because of their construction or due to some prior finishing process.
Softening can be done by either mechanical or chemical process.
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Mechanical softening machine
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Chemical softeners
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CREASE RESISTANCE
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Cotton, rayon and flax are more susceptible to wrinkle OR crease.
Crease occurs due to the hydrogen bonds of the cellulosic molecules in the amorphous region.
Due to application of heat or moisture, the hydrogen bond breaks and new hydrogen bond occurs at new dimension.
Therefore creasing can be reduced if the hydrogen bond formation can be reduced.
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Creasing can be controlled by physical deposition of a suitable polymeric material in amorphous region.[1]
Or the hydroxy groups of adjacent macromolecules may be reacted with bifunctional agents.
Reacting cotton with acidified formaldehyde. CRF finishes are resin finishes. The fabric is saturated with resin and then
the resin is cured at temperatures of about 360°F.
The fabric becomes stiffer, less absorbent and more resistant to wrinkling.
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ADVANTAGES: Improves comfort. Decreases pilling. [2]
Increases ease of maintenance. Betters dimensional stability. Chemical treated cotton fabric dry more
easily.
DISADVANTAGES: Decreased breaking strength( up to 28%). Decreased tearing strength.( up to 19%)
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SOIL RELEASE
What is soiling of textiles?
Dirt or soil get attracted to textile material.
Development of static charge electricity in hydrophilic textiles, making them prone to soiling.
Re-deposition of soil during washing. Hydrophobic materials are not wetted
properly during laundering. Mainly observed in polyester fabrics.
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Advantages of soil release: Making the fibers more absorbent
(hydrophilic). Permitting better wettability for
improved soil removal. Done by using hydrophilic finishes. Facilitates soil release during washing. Prevent soil redeposition. Also, reduces static charge by
maintaining moisture on the fabric surface.
Thus soil attraction during wear can be reduced.
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EFFECT OF SOIL RELEASE FINISHFU
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ANTIMICROBIAL
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•Antimicrobial finish protect fabric from attack of microbes and bacteria and are one of the most important finishes.
•Cause of concern due to action on non target microorganisms and water pollution.
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Natural fibers such as cotton are more susceptible than synthetics.
Their porous hydrophilic structure retains water, oxygen and nutrients, providing a perfect environment for bacterial growth.
The enzymes that degrade cotton are cellulase and cellobiase and these reduce strength and produce foul smell and color.
Smelling spots and even holes are created on the exposed fabric.
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NATURAL PLANTS WHICH ARE USED IN MAKING ANTIMICROBIAL FINISH - CHITIN
- SERICIN - NEEM EXTRACT - NATURAL DYES - ALOE VERA - TEA TREE - EUCALYPTUS OIL - AZUKAI BEANS - TULSI LEAVES
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CHITIN
Chitin, is a natural, non-toxic , microbial resistant and biodegradable polymer.[3]
Chitin is one of the most abundant polysaccharides found in nature , derived from marine shells and mollusks.
Chitin is applied on to the fabric by padding the cotton fabric with a mixture of chitin and citric acid followed by high temperature curing.
The fixation of chitosan citrate solution onto cotton fabrics followed by dry- cure process.
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NEEM
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Photographs of (a) untreated and (b) neem seed extract (5% w/v) treated cotton/PET blend (against B.Subtilis bacteria)[6]
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Neem has been recognized as one of the most promising sources of compounds with insect control, antimicrobial and medicinal properties.
Work has been reported on its textile application as an antimicrobial agent.
Few patents based on the use of neem oil as an antibacterial agent has been reported.
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Aloe Vera extract
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Above compound is present in aloe vera and is responsible for the anti microbial property of aloe vera.
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ANTIBACTERIAL ACTIVITY OF 75% ALOE VERA GEL ON COTTON FABRIC
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DEO2 FINISHED FABRICFU
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DEO2 arrests the growth of fungi and bacteria.
Keeps fabric fresh and anti-odour even after day-long wearing in humid and warm climate.
Long-lasting (50 home washes) Anti-Microbial property.
Anti-Odor Avoids spread of infections from microbial
infestation. Reduces staining and degradation of
fabrics by providing better-UV protection.
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FLAME RESISTANCE
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•Flame retardants are materials that have the quality of inhibiting or resisting the spreading of fire.• It stops the fire from traveling along the length of the fabric and decreases the fire development rate , providing valuable extra time to make an escape.
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Fabric burns because of pyrolytic decomposition of the fiber substrate.
The products of this decomposition include combustible gases, non combustible gases and carbonaceous character.
HOW TO FLAME RETARDANTS WORK? Fire retardants interfere with combustion
at different stages of the process.The different mechanisms are: -ENDOTHERMIC DEGRADATION - DILUTION OF FUEL - THERMAL SHIELDING
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- DILUTION OF GAS PHASE - GAS PHASE RADICAL QUENCHING
Flame retardants interfere with flame at different stages to cool the fabric and keep the temperature below ignition temperature.
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CONCLUSION
Fabric finishes play a major role in the garment. These finishes are derived from both natural as well as manmade sources. Finishes improve appearance of fabric along with its performance and hence are divided on the basis of aesthetic and functional properties. These finishes come from both natural as well as manmade sources. Finishes decrease crease, improve flame retardation, provide softness and stiffness, decrease pilling, raise fibers from fabric surface and also provide protection against microbes, insects and bacteria. Overall finishes play an important role in determining cost and improving quality of fabric.
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REFERENCES1. Dr. V. A . SHENAI, TECHNOLOGY OF TEXTILE
FINISHING 2. INDIAN JOURNAL OF fiber & TEXTILE
RESEARCH VOL. 34, JUNE 2009, PP 183-1863. ALY A S, HASHEM A & SAYED HUSSEIN S,
INDIAN JOURNAL OF fiber & TEXTILE RESEARCH VOL. 29, 2004, P.NO 218
4. HTTP://TEXTILELEARNER.BLOGSPOT.IN/5. WWW.fiber2FASHION.COM/INDUSTRY.../5/FL
AME-RETARDANT-FINISHES1.ASP6. M JOSHII, SW ALI, S RAJENDRAN – JOURNAL
OF APPLIED POLYMER SCIENCE, OCTOBER 2007, VOL 106, PG-793-800
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