WHITES...2013 TEMPRANILLO BLANCO, EDICIÓN LIMITADA, RIOJA VEGA, SPAIN White Tempranillo is something of a rarity and is the outcome of a natural mutation of a single (normally red) Tempranillo vine which was spotted in a local vineyard back in 1988, and from which cuttings were subsequently taken and vineyards planted. The history of Rioja Vega goes back to 1882 when Don Filipe Ugalde established his winery in Haro. A hundred and one years later, the winery was acquired by Group Príncipe de Viana who modernised the winery and upgraded the vineyards. Two things are for sure; Spain continues to produce the best value dry white wines in Europe, and nine out of ten wine drinkers will be blissfully unaware of Tempranillo Blanco! Given that it has taken the Galician variety of Albariño many decades to be recognised, it seems a likely bet that this variety will remain a secret for the foreseeable future. This has smokey, spicy aromas from some barrel-fermentation, with greengages and tropical fruits. Elegantly structured and full. TP69, £12.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Chicken pilaf with saffron rice.Your notes:

2013 SAUVIGNON BLANC, ALAN MCCORKINDALE, SOUTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND Several decades of winemaking around the world, and stewardship of New Zealand’s legendary Cloudy Bay have equipped high-profile oenologist, Alan McCorkindale, with the means to make the most of his own estates in Marlborough and the Waipara. Alan McCorkindale Wines is a small family business based in the Waipara Valley in the Canterbury region, focused on creating quality, boutique wines with distinct style and flair, using traditional French techniques. Machine harvested at night, the fruit is gently crushed and pressed, then fermented with cultured, aromatic yeasts. The wine is aged on its lees with minimal filtration and stabilisation. Alan’s chosen way forward is respect for the environment and a minimalist grape growing and wine-making philosophy. Benignly-neglected Marlborough grapes, picked at maximum flavour intensity, were used to create this richly-scented wine. A wine for any occasion, bursting with gooseberry, lime and freshly-cut grass flavours. Sure to impress the Sauvignon cognoscenti among your friends, and an ideal choice for… SV46, £12.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Grilled fish or seafood risotto.Your notes:

2014 GRÜNER VELTLINER, GROSSRIEDENTHALER LÖSS, BIOWEINGUT MARTIN DIWALD, WAGRAM, AUSTRIA “We like Grüner Veltliner and Riesling …what we don´t like are ‘Coca Cola wines’ and ‘glass house tomatoes’ ”. An interesting non sequitur from young winemaker Martin Diwalt, which is why he interferes as little as possible in the cellar, maintaining that all that is needed is plenty of brain power and intuition, patience and love of wine. This is archetypal Austrian Grüner Veltliner from a pioneering organic winery in Wagram, a region with typically fruitier Grüner Veltliner than the more famous (and pricier) examples along the Danube. Natural wild yeasts are used in the fermentation which is all done under temperature-controlled conditions in stainless steel tanks producing an elegance that typifies wines from the clay (löss) soils of the Großriedenthal, with the famous prickly white pepper and a touch of cream. Martin Diwald describes it simply as a great, natural anti-depressant! This is a lovely, classic Grüner, peppery and zippy. Ripe apples with some herbal undertones. Well-structured and with good long finish. TP88, £14.79

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Thai curry. Your notes:

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SEPTEMBER 2016 TASTING NOTES £180 CASE

2010 CHÂTEAU POMEYS, MOULIS-EN-MÉDOC, BORDEAUX, FRANCE2010 is arguably one of the best vintages of the past two decades, when every element came together to produce an iconic year of rounded wines with moderate tannins and ripe fruit – perfectly balanced wines for early drinking as well as for keeping. Château Pomeys is situated in the Moulis-en-Médoc appellation, and lies between St Julien and Margaux, where sustainable viticulture (lute raisonée) is practised on its 12 acres of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Owner Patrick Meynard and consultant oenologist Éric Boissenot make a wine which is modern, with the emphasis on ripe fruit and integrated new oak (they buy barrels from eight different cooperages), yet manage to produce a wine which is unmistakably, and classically Bordeaux. A lovely ripe nose of cassis, mocha, tobacco and cream with cedar and spice on the palate. Fine-grained and harmonious, with charm and good length of flavour. TP03, £15.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Roast beef or roast pheasant.Your notes:

2013 6N PASAELI, IZMIR, TURKEY At the age of 17, Seyit Karagozoglu, owner of Pasaeli winery was far from home. For three years he had been away from his native Turkey at a boarding school in Switzerland, where his father, a tobacco dealer, wanted him to receive an international education. Then one weekend in his third year, his father came to visit, and took him out to dinner. His father ordered a bottle of Musigny, and gave Seyrit a glass. This was to be Day One in Seyit’s discovery of, and involvement in, wine. A couple of years later, Karagozoglu ended up at Pepperdine University on the coast of Malibu and discovered that America could make wine. In 1993 he started importing wines into Turkey, then in 2002, with the help of Italian wine consultant Andre Paoletti, he started planting vines. Initially they were of the Bordeaux varieties, but he and Paoletti have undertaken something of a mission to rescue some of Turkey’s heritage grape varieties from obscurity, and in some cases from near extinction. The vines are located in the northern part of Mt Ida, close to the ruins of Troy, in the sub-region of Kaz Daglari. The grapes are 89% Karasakiz – a variety native to the region of Kaz Daglari, and Merlot (11%). Karasakiz translates as ‘black chewing gum’. Hmm. The grapes come from a single vineyard of clay-loam soil, planted at an altitude of 550 metres. Wild yeast fermentation, is then followed by six months in French and American oak barrels (not new) prior to a minimum of 6 months in bottle before release. Light to medium-bodied, distinctive aromas of red cherry, cranberry and dried figs. Sour cherry freshness and earthiness on the finish. TP85, £16.79

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Goat meat curry.Your notes:

GIGONDAS, LA TOUR SARRAZINE, FRANCEWe have been visiting and buying wines from the Achimbaud-Vache family, on and off, for the past twenty years. They farm a little less than 100 acres (thirty-six of which are in Gigondas) on the slopes which rise up to the majestic and imposing limestone cliffs of the Dentelles de Montmirail – a major landmark in this region of the Rhône Valley. The frequency of the Mistral limits the number of treatments the vines might otherwise require to stay healthy. The traditional, local varieties of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre all go into this wine, in an approximate ratio of 70:15:15. In conjunction with the appropriately hot weather, the somewhat stressed vines are planted on very stony, chalk and granite terraces at 200 - 300m and are at least 50 years old. Extremely low yields of 25 hectolitres per hectare (hl/ha), against a respectable 50 hl/ha norm, the ensuing wine shows all the appellation’s classic traits of smooth, concentrated richness. Rustic, gamey aromas, with tight, black fruit, herbs and a lovely length of flavour. RR08, £16.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Venison casserole or game pie.Your notes:

2015 VIOGNIER/ROUSSANNE, BABYLON’S PEAK, PAARDEBERG, SWARTLAND, SOUTH AFRICA The name Swartland comes from the Afrikaans for ‘black land’, from the rhinoster bush that dominates the landscape here, its dark leaves turning black after the rains. The estate which has been in the Basson family since 1919, is topped by a weathered, granitic peak which the locals call ‘Babylonstoren’. Wines were made in the old cellar until 1948, when the farmers in the region got together to form a cooperative. But in 2003, Stephen Basson decided to renovate the cellar and to realise a dream by producing wine here once again. The vineyards, some of the highest in the region at up to 700 metres, lie on the slopes of the Paardeberg Mountain. The wines have a vivid purity, an almost crystalline concentration that belies Swartland’s hot climate. The grapes were picked by hand, destemmed and lightly crushed. The free-run juice was fermented at low temperature in stainless steel tanks until near the end of fermentation. It was then racked to older 300-litre French oak barrels to complete the last twenty percent of fermentation, and spent four months on lees before bottling. With pretty, floral aromas, which emerge more and more as the wine warms up in the glass, this mix of Rhône varieties (55% Viognier, 45% Roussanne), produces a wonderfully textured wine, its natural richness supporting apricot, greengages, pepper and kiwi fruit flavours. TP59, £15.49

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Full-flavoured, freshwater fish like pike. Your notes:

2013 CHARDONNAY RESERVE, LAWSON’S HILLS, MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALANDRoss and Barbara Lawson founded Lawson’s Dry Hills in 1992. Their first vintage, which was made by the late Ross Lawson in their old, red tin-shed, included a Gewürztraminer which subsequently won a top accolade and effectively launched the estate’s reputation. That tin-shed now forms part of the winery/cellar door complex. Lawson’s remains a small family owned company which is run by Barbara and her general manager Sion Barnsley, and all the grapes are sourced from Marlborough’s Wairau, Waihopai and Omaka Valleys. This Reserve wine is made from low-yielding, twelve year-old vines in their Chaytors Road vineyard (in the coastal zone of the Lower Wairau Valley), and is exactly what you would expect of a ‘grown-up’, barrel-fermented Chardonnay. After pressing and settling, the juice went into French oak, of which 25% was new, for fermentation and subsequent maturation, with occasional stirring of the wine to encourage further contact with the lees – which just adds flavours and complexity. Yeasty, brioche aromas – not dissimilar to vintage champagne, as well as spicy/oak notes on the palate, with a lively mineral acidity, and a long, textured finish. The wine was made by Marcus Wright and Rebecca Wiffen. TG70, £16.79

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Robust savoury dishes with cream and garlic.Your notes:

2012 DOMAINE DE LA BONGRAN, MÂCON VILLAGES, FRANCEThis remains one of our all-time favourite estates in the sleepy backwater of Viré-Clessé - a lightly populated village and corner of ‘old’ France, where the best traditions count for more than technological wizardry. These two are not mutually exclusive, but in Jean Thévenet’s simple and little-changed cellars, there is more of the old world than the new, despite the recent acquisition of the very latest and most technically advanced pressoir! Not bad for a man who hasn’t embraced mobile ‘phone technology yet! Jean’s philosophy is how to coax the best wine from the ripest bunches from the least stressed vines in the Mâcon region. His vines are always the last to be picked in the commune, and this translates to super-ripe grapes, which take months to ferment, rather than just a couple of weeks. The resulting wines are therefore released two or three years later than everyone else’s, and often require three or four years before they are ready for drinking. We think the 2012 is approaching its apogee. Ably assisted by son Gautier – who is gradually taking over the winemaking and cellar work, this intensely mineral wine represents the soil and the tradition of the region better than any other, and should be decanted for an hour ahead of drinking to release the aromas of violets and white flowers. Steely, citrus notes are beautifully integrated/harmonised with the off-dry, honey extract which lingers in the glass long after the last drop has been enjoyed! BW08, £16.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Honey-glazed pintade (guinea fowl) or chicken. Your notes:

REDS...2013 MOURVÈDRE, SANTA CAROLINA ‘SPECIALITIES’, CACHAPOAL VALLEY, CENTRAL CHILE This 100% Mourvèdre was made by Alejandro Wedeles. It is the grape that makes the best Provence reds and rosés, as well as being a key component of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The grapes come from a 12 year old block of vines, in the warm sub-zone of Peumo in the Cachapoal Valley, central Chile. The land in this area, in the shape of a semi-circle, is old, granitic, clayey, and low in fertility, and the climate is influenced by the freshness coming from the basin of the Cachapoal River, moderating the area’s range of temperatures. The fruit is hand picked, with a five day, pre-fermentation cold maceration, followed by a traditional fermentation with selected, native yeasts. Ten months ageing in used oak barrels, enhances the structure whilst allowing the natural fruit character to prevail. Intense notes of red fruits, cherries, red currants, cedar and spices. Fresh, medium-bodied with rounded tannins and a long finish. TP65, £12.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Roasted or grilled meats, duck and root vegetablesYour notes:

2014 MERLOT ‘AMATRA’, CATHERINE MARSHALL, ELGIN, SOUTH AFRICA Founded by world-renowned winemaker Cathy Marshall in 1997, the Barefoot Wine Company was one of the first true ‘boutique/micro-wineries’ in the Western Cape, establishing a then ground-breaking, ‘alternative’ approach, characterised by the use of a low-tech, but meticulous hands-on methodology which set the trend for the burgeoning garagiste movement. Thanks to Cathy’s tireless efforts, the company grew from humble beginnings (with a handful of friends and family gathering at harvest-time to press the grapes barefoot) to become an institution – inspiring hundreds of enthusiastic participants to attend the annual BWC ‘foot-stomps’. Since those early days, she has travelled the globe honing her winemaking skills and has changed her company’s name from Barefoot Wine Company (BWC) to Catherine Marshall Wines. Cathy has long-term commitments with growers, selecting her grapes from only their most suitable sites, where climate, soil and variety are in perfect harmony. Minimal intervention in the cellar has produced this Amatra Merlot, with grapes sourced from cool climate Elgin vines, with fresh, vibrant purple fruit flavours and well-balanced acidity. Matured in used French oak barrels, this 100% Merlot was lightly filtered to maintain the integrity of the fruit and structure. We think this is a shoo-in for a St Emilion Grand Cru. TP08, £13.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: A great match with mature cheeses, red meat and game dishes.Your notes:

2014 CINSAULT VIEILLES VIGNES, E&F JOURDAN, LANGUEDOC, FRANCEÉlisabeth and François Jourdan craft this really delicious wine form their vineyards in the Gard region of the Languedoc. It is made from 100% Cinsault, a variety that doesn’t normally attract much attention, but the wines of Château Musar in the Lebanon, and many Châteauneuf-du-Papes would be the lesser blends without it. Thus, it is an important ingredient as a component part, and quite rare to find it bottled in its own right. These vines were planted in 1969, and now produce small quantities (35 hl/hectare) of excellent, mature fruit, but the 45-hectare estate has been in the Jourdan family since the 1930s. They use no herbicides in the vineyards. François Jourdan hails from Santenay in Burgundy, and his wines possess a Burgundian elegance and freshness. He has been criticised locally for not making his reds according to local traditions, but then again, we may well have rejected this wine if he had. The grapes are some of the ripest and last to be picked, by hand, in the area and are traditionally crushed and fermented in temperature-controlled, concrete vats. The must is ‘pumped over’ daily – this is the process where the juice is taken from the bottom of the vat, and pumped over the floating cap of skins that forms on the top, extracting colour and tannins. The outcome is undoubtedly elegant Pinot Noir – maybe reflecting the Santenay connection, with some Cabernet Franc notes of smokey, ethereal, black cherries and violets. TP87, £14.99

FOOD MATCHING SUGGESTION: Boeuf BourguignonYour notes: