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Service Dogs by Warren Retriever DAD Training Manual 2012 1 Updated 3/31/2012 © 2012 Service Dogs by Warren Retrievers Congratulations to you and your family. Soon you will be welcoming a puppy from our Diabetic Alert Dog program into your home. The day your puppy arrives will be filled with excitement and anticipation. Preparing in advance will make that homecoming easier. Think it through Sleeping. Create space for your puppy’s crate next to the bed where the diabetic in your family sleeps. If you have Multiple Diabetics in the family consider moving all the beds into one room, temporarily. As soon as possible you should plan to transition puppy into the diabetic’s bed at night. With Multiple diabetics in the family choose one for puppy to sleep with. Safety always comes first, so make certain that puppy cannot fall out of bed before making that transition. Decide if you want a second crate in another part of your home. For example, if puppy’s sleeping crate is upstairs and your family room is downstairs, you might want a second crate downstairs. Determine where you will take puppy for potty breaks and what door you will consistently use. Potty Bells are a great addition to any door for alerting you to potty breaks. These can be found online, or you can make your own! Decide where puppy’s water and food bowls will be. Your puppy may be a sloppy drinker, so putting the water bowl in an area with tile rather than on wood or carpeted floors is a good idea. House rules. Sit down with all the members of your family and decide what the household rules will be for the new puppy. Example: either your puppy is allowed on the furniture or he isn’t. You will totally confuse him if some members of the family allow him to join them on the sofa while others yell at him for the same thing. Choose your puppy’s veterinarian ahead of time. Make an appointment for your puppy the first week he is in your home. Talk to your vet about flea and tick protection and heartworm preventative and get a vaccination schedule. Find the nearest emergency veterinarian, since puppies rarely get sick or hurt during regular office hours. TIP: Use a white board or big post-it note to list the names of the behaviors you will be teaching your puppy (examples: sit, down, stand). This encourages everyone in the home to use the same words consistently when working or playing with the puppy. Be prepared for medical emergencies. Purchase or create your own pet FIRST AID KIT and consider taking the Red Cross PET FIRST AID CLASS. In addition, all land line and cell phones should be programmed with these three phone numbers: Your veterinarian Local emergency vet (24/7) ASPCA poison hot line – 888.426.4435. There is a $65 consultation fee and it’s worth every penny.
Transcript
Page 1: Service Dogs by Warren Retriever DAD Training Manual · Leashes and collars Contents of litter boxes (referred to by some as “dog candy”) ... This will be puppy’s everyday leash

Service Dogs by Warren Retriever DAD Training Manual 2012

1 Updated 3/31/2012 © 2012 Service Dogs by Warren Retrievers

Congratulations to you and your family. Soon you will be welcoming a puppy from our Diabetic Alert Dog program into your home. The day your puppy arrives will be filled with excitement and anticipation. Preparing in advance will make that homecoming easier.

Think it through

❐ Sleeping. Create space for your puppy’s crate next to the bed where the diabetic in your

family sleeps. If you have Multiple Diabetics in the family consider moving all the beds into one room, temporarily. As soon as possible you should plan to transition puppy into the diabetic’s bed at night. With Multiple diabetics in the family choose one for puppy to sleep with. Safety always comes first, so make certain that puppy cannot fall out of bed before making that transition.

❐ Decide if you want a second crate in another part of your home. For example, if puppy’s

sleeping crate is upstairs and your family room is downstairs, you might want a second crate downstairs.

❐ Determine where you will take puppy for potty breaks and

what door you will consistently use. Potty Bells are a great addition to any door for alerting you to potty breaks. These can be found online, or you can make your own!

❐ Decide where puppy’s water and food bowls will be. Your

puppy may be a sloppy drinker, so putting the water bowl in an area with tile rather than on wood or carpeted floors is a good idea.

❐ House rules. Sit down with all the members of your family

and decide what the household rules will be for the new puppy. Example: either your puppy is allowed on the furniture or he isn’t. You will totally confuse him if some members of the family allow him to join them on the sofa while others yell at him for the same thing.

❐ Choose your puppy’s veterinarian ahead of time. Make an appointment for your puppy

the first week he is in your home. Talk to your vet about flea and tick protection and heartworm preventative and get a vaccination schedule. Find the nearest emergency veterinarian, since puppies rarely get sick or hurt during regular office hours. TIP: Use a white board or big post-it note to list the names of the behaviors you will be teaching your puppy (examples: sit, down, stand). This encourages everyone in the home to use the same words consistently when working or playing with the puppy.

❐ Be prepared for medical emergencies. Purchase or create your own pet FIRST AID KIT and

consider taking the Red Cross PET FIRST AID CLASS. In addition, all land line and cell phones should be programmed with these three phone numbers:

Your veterinarian Local emergency vet (24/7)

ASPCA poison hot line – 888.426.4435. There is a $65 consultation fee and it’s worth every penny.

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Puppy proof your home: Remove from your puppy’s reach anything that he should not have, might destroy, or ingest. Here’s a partial list for inside your home:

❐ Computer cables and electric cords

❐ Articles of clothing (dirty laundry and shoes are puppy favorites)

❐ Sporting equipment

❐ Children’s toys

❐ Books, magazines, newspapers, DVDs, CDs, Homework

❐ Remote controls, cell phones, pagers

❐ Eye glasses

❐ Leashes and collars

❐ Contents of litter boxes (referred to by some as “dog candy”)

❐ Food of any kind including food designated for the cat, bird, gerbil, fish, etc.

❐ Houseplants (some houseplants are toxic to dogs, including dieffenbachia, lily of the

valley, mistletoe, philodendron, and poinsettia)

❐ Trash cans

❐ Anything at dog nose level

TIP: For a complete list of plants that are toxic to animals, visit the ASPCA’s WEBSITE.

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What else can you do to prevent destruction of your worldly possessions?

❐ In the beginning, there should be a baby gate at every stairway.

❐ Choose a room (living room, family room) where your puppy is allowed and close doors

to all other rooms. Use baby gates to block access to areas without a door. Your puppy should have limited access to your home until he is old enough to exhibit self-control. How old is that? For some puppies it will be around six months when puppy finishes teething. For others it will be sometime in young adulthood. If you try allowing him to roam your home alone when he’s seven months old and he destroys something ... it’s too soon.

❐ Puppies can get in trouble in the blink of an eye. Consider tethering your puppy to you.

Simply put the loop of the leash through your belt or hold the leash in your hand as if you were taking him for a walk.

❐ Your curious puppy can find lots of ways to get into trouble outdoors, as well. Be

prepared.

❐ If you have a pool, make sure puppy cannot get in it when you’re not there.

❐ Make certain anything poisonous (fertilizer, antifreeze, etc.) is out of reach.

❐ If your yard is fenced in, make sure there are no spaces puppy can squeeze through.

❐ Put the gardening tools away. Their handles make wonderful chew toys.

❐ Understand that if left alone outdoors, your puppy may dig holes, bed down in the

flowers, chew the corners off of your deck steps, and bark at everything from butterflies to falling leaves. He may eat dirt and rocks and parts of trees. Prevention: never, ever leave a puppy outdoors unsupervised.

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Feeding Follow Warren Retrievers’ feeding guidelines for your puppy. Questions about feeding? Contact DanWarren at 804.883.6931.

❐ Feed a premium holistic dog food like CANIDAE. This is Warren Retrievers’ preferred dog

food and what your puppy is currently on.

❐ Feed half cup of raw vegetables like cauliflower, broccoli, Brussels sprouts and cabbage

at least three times a week. Never feed grapes, raisins, nuts or chocolate as they are toxic to dogs and can be potentially fatal.

❐ Supplement your dog’s diet with fruits and vegetables like watermelon, cantaloupe,

blueberries, strawberries, bananas, apples and carrots. Organic or natural peanut butter is another puppy favorite.

❐ To maintain your pup’s healthy coat for life, include Grizzly salmon oil and one hard

boiled egg (without the shell) with each feeding daily.

❐ A great source of calcium (and it’s a probiotic) is provided by feeding 6 oz. of yogurt

daily. Other dogs in the house?

You may want to change all K-9s in the home over to CANIDEA, otherwise you risk puppy eating your other dog’s food. If you leave food out for other dogs in the home (it’s called free feeding), start changing that now. You want your service dog puppy to have consistent feeding times (food in, food out - helps with potty training). To get into a new routine with your existing dogs, put the food dish down and set a timer for 15 minutes. When the timer goes off, if there is food left in the dish, put it away. Your dogs will adjust quickly to being fed twice a day.

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Collars. Harnesses. Leashes. Quick release buckle collar with I.D. tag.

Your dog wears this when hanging out indoors. Remove this and all collars before putting your dog in his crate. Never allow a dog to roughhouse with another dog while wearing a collar. The only exception is Premier’s KEEPSAFE BREAK-AWAY COLLAR.

Martingale collar. MARTINGALES are great when potty training a puppy. Leave the collar attached to the leash, grab both, slip the collar over puppy’s head, and off you go to his designated outdoor bathroom. Martingales are safe. When fitted properly a dog cannot back out them like they can a buckle collar. Our Puppies are delivered wearing the Martingale Collar. Prong Collar. This collar should only be worn when puppy is working on training, and should

be taken off when puppy is not being directly supervised.

Gentle Leader Head Harness. GENTLE LEADERS eliminate leash pulling. A Gentle Leader is not a muzzle. Why does it work so well? Because where the nose goes the body follows. Trainers refer to the Gentle Leader as “power steering for dogs”. 1-2 foot lead. Great for heeling and keeping puppy by your side.

4-foot leash. This will be puppy’s everyday leash and can be made of nylon or leather.

20-40 foot long line. Long lines are great for insuring that your puppy doesn’t get away from you. Use one in your own yard if it is not fenced. Taking pup to the park where there is a big grassy area to throw tennis balls for him to retrieve? Use a long line. Your puppy has an extraordinary sense of smell. That nose will smell a squirrel, deer, cat, dog, etc. from a great distance. His natural curiosity may lead him to follow that scent. Keep him safe by keeping him with you.

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When driving You should always use a car safety harness in the back seat when you and your service dog are on the road. The best harness is from ORVIS. When your puppy is very young, an alternative is to crate him in your vehicle. If you do so, anchor the crate so it does not move around inside your vehicle.

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Away from home

Travel essentials. Traveling with a dog is much like traveling with a young child. You may want one “go” bag for local excursions and another for longer trips.

❐ Bowl. Choose a travel food/water bowl that fits your needs. You can use plastic, metal, or

fabric. Disposables will eliminate the need to wash dishes.

❐ Fresh water. Take it with you or buy bottled.

❐ Food. If you will be away for more than a few hours, take along dog food. Use zip lock

bags and measure out individual servings. When empty, bags can be used for poop pick-up. If you are flying with your service dog, consider buying dog food when you reach your final destination.

❐ Toys. A favorite toy or two can be used as a reward and if it’s retrievable - exercise.

❐ Training treats.

❐ First aid kit.

❐ Gear. Service dog vest, leash, collar, and as needed ... long line, booties, hearing

protection, eye protection, etc.

❐ Poop bags & paper towels.

❐ Towel for drying off a wet dog.

❐ Travel crate if needed for overnight trips.

❐ Shot records.

❐ Service dog tent cards. Great for handing out to anyone who does not understand your

rights under the Americans with Disabilities Act. These will be provided by your trainer.

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Additional Information

Flying with your service dog. Talk with your trainer before you fly with your service dog the first time. She will provide specific recommendations to make the experience a positive one. It is recommended that you do not fly with your puppy until he is at least six months old. Service dog vest. Your pup will be delivered with a vest and must wear it each time you take him out in public. You can contact us when Puppy begins to outgrow his/ her vest. You can also get additional vests as you like. Vests are available Online. Your puppy’s vest can be whatever color you prefer. Safety first. Until your puppy is fully vaccinated (around 4-1/2 months of age), there are places he should not be permitted to walk. They include ANYwhere dogs congregate like pet stores, dog parks, the parking lot and waiting room of your vet’s office, etc. Your puppy is not protected from diseases like Parvo, which is passed along in dog feces, until he has all of his vaccinations. Lifestyle. If you have a boat you will your dog to have a life vest. The best is made by RUFF

WEAR. Will yours be a beach puppy? If so, teaching him to wear BOOTIES is a great idea, not only for hot sand but hot pavement. You can also try MUSHER’S SECRET for extreme heat and cold. If you live in an area with a lot of snow in the winter be sure to wipe your dog’s paws off after he’s been walking on sidewalks or in parking lots where de-icers are used. Some ice melters are toxic and dogs often lick their paws to clean them after being outside. The first time you introduce your pup to water, do so where there is a gradual slope into the water. Engage him in play with floating retrievable toys. As a safety measure, consider using a FLOATING LONG LINE attached to his collar when your pup is young and inexperienced in the water. If you participate in an activity that requires you to wear ear protection, provide the same for your service dog by teaching him to wear MUTT MUFFS. Likewise, if you participate in an activity that requires eye protection, consider DOGGLES

for your service dog.

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Understanding your puppy

To successfully raise a puppy into a mature adult working dog, it helps to understand how puppies develop and why they behave the way they do. Only then can you communicate with your puppy on his level. In addition to the information contained here, take time to read The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. This is the best book out there about canine behavior. The developmental period. The first four months of a puppy’s life are known as the developmental months because it is believed that during this period nearly all of a dog’s

basic behavior patterns are developed. A puppy’s experiences during this time are the foundation of his mature personality. An important part of the developmental period is the socialization phase, when a dog’s potential for relationships develops. This is when your puppy learns to develop appropriate relationships with people, as well as with other dogs and even other species. It is also at this time that a puppy learns, through proper experiences, to become familiar with and confident around different people, animals, objects, sounds, and situations. Your puppy was actively socialized while at Warren Retrievers and it is imperative that you continue this process so that your puppy can develop the qualities necessary to become a solid working dog.

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Socialization. Introduce your puppy to as many new sights, sounds and smells as possible before he is six months old. Here are some examples: Things with wheels, wings

and rotors

❐ Trucks backing up (beep,

beep, beep)

❐ Airplanes and helicopters

❐ Street cleaners

❐ Snow plows

❐ Garbage trucks

❐ Police cars

❐ Fire trucks/ambulances

❐ Motorcycles

Environment/noise

❐ Sirens

❐ Gun fire

❐ Snow blowers/plows

❐ Airport

❐ Train station

❐ Loud speakers

❐ Construction site

❐ Fork lift

❐ Lawn mower

❐ Power tools

❐ Stairs of all kinds

(concrete, wood, metal; open and closed)

❐ Ramps

❐ Sand

❐ Ceramic tile, carpet,

wood floors

❐ Slippery/wet surfaces

❐ Manholes and grates

❐ Grass, gravel, concrete

❐ Wooden deck/dock

❐ Mud and ice

Miscellaneous

❐ Car rides

❐ Boarding kennel (don’t

need to leave pup, just tke him for a visit)

❐ Groomer and vet

❐ The bank

❐ Gas station

❐ Toll booth

❐ Shopping mall

❐ Outdoor restaurant

❐ Woods, fields, hiking

trails

❐ Elevators

❐ Automatic doors

❐ Busy city streets

❐ Boat ride

❐ Playground

❐ Car wash

❐ Walk after dark

❐ A bridge

❐ Crowds of people

❐ Drive-through restaurant

❐ The beach

❐ Sporting event

❐ Church

People

❐ Adults

❐ Babies

❐ Toddlers

❐ Adolescents

❐ Teenagers

❐ Seniors

❐ Both genders

❐ Different ethnicities

❐ Police

❐ Firefighters

❐ Postal workers

❐ Vet clinic staff

❐ Crossing guards

❐ Meter readers

❐ Umbrellas

❐ Sunglasses

❐ Hats

❐ Beards

❐ Costumes

❐ Shaved heads

❐ Raincoats/capes

❐ Canes, crutches, walkers,

wheelchairs, scooters

❐ Service dogs

❐ Baby carriages

❐ Backpacks

❐ Luggage

❐ Skate boards

❐ Shopping carts

❐ Bicycles

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Pack behavior In order to understand why your puppy behaves the way he does, it helps to understand the concept of pack behavior. One reason humans and dogs can work together is that they are both cooperative animals, predisposed to live and function in groups. This kind of cooperation and interdependency in dogs is called pack behavior. The roles within the pack are decided by the needs of the group and by the pack leader. The pack leader directs the activities of the group to make sure the needs of the pack are being met and has the responsibility of ensuring the safety, security, and ultimately the survival of the pack and its members. With these responsibilities being met, the other members of the pack are able to pursue their role or job within the pack. From the dog’s point of view, there is a hierarchy to the pack. There is a leader in charge and every other member will fall behind that leader in descending order of subordination. The leader is not necessarily the strongest or most ferocious, but displays a combination of qualities: good judgment, confidence, assertiveness, direction, emotional stability, motivation, discipline, etc. and will exhibit these qualities consistently. If you expect a dog to be responsive to you, you need to demonstrate to the dog that you have the necessary qualities to assume the role of pack leader. Assuming the role of a pack leader does not prevent you from having an interactive, mutually enjoyable relationship with your dog, but rather enhances your relationship with your dog. This is a relationship they can fully understand, appreciate and respect.

Possession of toys, initiating play and winning games. The pack leader decides when a game starts and finishes. The puppy learns to release his toys when asked and by doing so learns not to be possessive of them. Feeding order. The pack leader eats first. The puppy must learn to wait patiently until it is his turn to eat. Social grooming. The pack leader controls grooming and physical contact. Cradling is an excellent way to relax the puppy and demonstrate your leadership. A good pack leader establishes and maintains the position by:

Being calm & confident in attitude & actions

Being patient yet persistent Being positive Rewarding responsiveness Not becoming frustrated or discouraged Being objective Sitting or standing up straight Moving about with confidence, showing

that you know what you are doing

Being observant of what your puppy is doing; knowing where his focus is directed.

Being consistent in approach and expectations.

As you develop and consistently display these leadership qualities, your puppy will become more responsive to you and give you his attention more readily.

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How a puppy learns Your puppy will repeat behaviors he finds rewarding. He does not learn just in formal training sessions but rather all day, every day. It is easy to unintentionally reinforce behaviors that are undesirable. Unwanted behaviors that recur are somehow being rewarded. For example:

The puppy does something inappropriate, but funny, and we laugh.

Laughter is rewarding.

The puppy jumps up on visitors, they say “it’s alright” and they pet him.

Physical touch is rewarding.

The puppy chews a toy and you do nothing. He grabs a sock, looks at you and runs the

other way and you respond. Whether you are yelling or chasing the puppy, it’s a form of attention and he will think it’s a game.

Attention in any form is rewarding.

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Communication It is important to understand that you are constantly communicating information to your puppy whether you know it or not. Your puppy picks up on your body language, your emotions and your routines. Based on this information, he is constantly learning behavior patterns (good and bad) and evaluating you as an effective leader. Dogs experience the world very differently from the way humans do. They appear to spend little or no time thinking about the past or future. Instead, they react, basing their responses on what is going on at the moment. This is why redirecting a puppy’s unwanted behavior is so effective. Ex.: The pant leg he was tugging on is forgotten when you engage him in a game of fetch. Dogs are constantly reacting to your emotions, whether you express them vocally or through your body language. Yes, your puppy will know when you are happy or sad, well or unwell. The apparent empathy dogs have for humans makes them so very good at being service dogs. It is important to understand your puppy and think in terms of the way he learns and thinks. Your puppy will view you and your family as he would a pack of dogs. Learning to read your puppy’s body language will help you understand what he is communicating in different situations, including early recognition of fluctuating blood sugar levels.

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Reward-based training Communication is the key to everything as you build your relationship with your puppy. One of the simplest and most effective forms of communication is rewarding behaviors you want repeated. When you reward something you like, you are providing positive feedback to your puppy. Not only does this increase the likelihood that he will repeat the behavior, it teaches him to listen and respond to you. The timing of the reward is critical.

It must happen during the desired behavior so puppy can connect the praise with that

behavior. There are many types of rewards:

❐ A soft gentle encouraging voice

(soothing monotone that doesn’t amp up puppy)

❐ An enthusiastic encouraging voice

(high pitched, happy voice that does amp up puppy)

❐ A big smile and open arms

❐ A light physical touch

❐ Enthusiastic petting

❐ A game

❐ A favorite toy

❐ A food treat

These rewards, accompanied by a positive mindset (your puppy can read your emotions like you can read a book), will let puppy know that he has done well and you are pleased. In the first few weeks, clearly establishing what you like and don’t like through rewards begins a lifetime of good canine behavior and will make it clear to puppy that you are the leader of the pack.

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Timing is everything The timing of praise and corrections is vital. Dogslive in the moment. That means you have to react in the moment – delivering that appropriate praise or correction when the behavior happens. Work on your delivery and remember that experienced dog handlers often correct and praise a dog in a split second. Practice makes perfect. If you delay your response even a few seconds, puppy may not connect the praise or correction to the action.

Consistency, too Consistency is just as important as timing. Inconsistency will only confuse puppy. For example, if you sometimes correct him for pulling on the leash, but at other times let him do it, you are sending mixed signals. One time you are saying it is not allowed; the next time you are saying it is okay. Being consistent requires you to be aware of the limits you set for the puppy and then stick to them.

Extinguishing behaviors you don’t want An appropriate correction – delivered at exactly the right moment – is the best way to let puppy know that he is doing something you don’t like. The right correction will get your puppy to stop the unwanted behavior and done consistently will encourage him to avoid that behavior all together. Praising desirable and ignoring undesirable behavior is very effective. Correction should NEVER include physically hurting your puppy. Do not EVER hit your puppy with a rolled up newspaper, your hands or anything else. Appropriate corrections include:

ignoring your puppy (the thing he wants most is your attention)

Time outs

Verbal admonishments (“no ma’am”)

Interruption of play (when he gets too wound up, simply end the game

Mild leash corrections

Grooming

Keep your puppy’s nails trimmed, ears and teeth clean, and coat healthy. Maintain your puppy’s healthy weight with proper feeding and lots of appropriate exercise. Your goal is, through positive dog training, to have a happy, healthy, well-mannered young adult dog at about 12 months of age.

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The power of “sit” Teach your puppy that “sit” is his default behavior and you will have a dog who understands his place in your pack. According to Clinical Behavioral Medicine

for Small Animals, an important reference for dog professionals including vets and trainers: 1. Sitting and deferring [to you or his handler] for everything the dog wants, forever,

reinforces the innate social structure of the dog and teaches it to look to its people for cues about the appropriateness of its behavior.

2. Deference behaviors [such as sit] can act as a form of “time out”: they give the dog respite from a sitatuion so that it does not worsen.

3. Deference behaviors allow the dog to calm down. A sitting dog is less reactive than one that is running around, thus these behaviors allow the dog to couple a verbal cue, a behavior, and the physiological response to that behavior. This has a calming effect.

4. Deference behaviors, consistently reinforced, allow the dog to anticipate what is expected and to be able to earn attention. Again, referring back to the Clinical

Behavior text: The rule is: the dog must sit and be quiet to earn anything and everything it wants for the

rest of its life.

Sit can help calm a dog and give him time to refocus his own actions and energy.

This includes sitting for the following:

Food and feeding

Treats

Love

Grooming

Being able to go out & come in

Having the leash, halter, or

harness put on.

Having feet toweled

Being invited onto the bed or

sofa (if desired).

Playing games

Playing with toys

Having a tick removed

Having a wound checked

Being petted or loved

Attention

Anything the dog wants!

Applying this simple concept with your puppy will ensure a lifetime of good manners from

your service dog.

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Training your service dog Here are a few of the goals to set for you and your puppy in the first year of his life. Puppy should be trained to: Always

Walk at the handler’s side, left and right, on a loose leash, naturally speeding up or

slowing down to match your pace.

Be calm and confident everywhere in public

Go potty on command in any situation

Be calm around other animals

Be calm when meeting people

Be comfortable when left alone

Be friendly but inobstrusive in public, always deferring to his handler for direction.

Be willing to work anywhere, any time

Never

Eat food off the floor

Beg for food

“Resource guard” anything, including chew toys, food, a person, etc.

Be aggressive toward other animals or people.

When and how to train

The bulk of your puppy's training will be outside of puppy class in the context of daily life and during many brief and fun-filled training sessions throughout the day. Much of the training involves introducing the puppy to new situations in a positive way with the goal of building confidence and teaching appropriate behavior. However, this should be done gradually and with a plan. If you are unsure about taking your puppy somewhere, ask your trainer if it is age appropriate. Some activities and locations are not appropriate for very young puppies.

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Behavior Your dog should be well behaved at home and in public with a willingness to follow instruction no matter the scenario. As a service dog handler, these are absolute musts:

Prevent bad behaviors and habits

Be consistent with gentle handling even when puppy makes a mistake

Intervene early when problems arise

Reinforce good behavior

Puppy class

Enroll your future service dog in a puppy kindergarten class when he is around four months old (after his final vaccinations). If you are unsure whether a specific class is appropriate for your puppy, check with your trainer. Puppy class is primarily for socialization but can also help reinforce these behaviors:

Attention (puppy looks at you)

Settle (puppy sits or downs naturally without being pushed or forced)

Sit, down, stand and roll (body positions)

Come or here (come when called)

Appropriate response to distractions (so you both know how to handle real life

situations)

Walking on a loose leash (gentle leader and/or collar)

The primary reasons for attending an obedience class with your puppy are about you, your puppy’s handler. In a classroom setting you can learn:

How to communicate with your puppy

How to teach specific exercises that apply in various settings of everyday life

How to use motivation and rewards

How to wean your puppy off food rewards

How to problem solve situations

How to provide appropriate dog socialization

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Measuring progress

When your puppy reaches the age of six months, it is a good time to evaluate him in the following areas:

Puppy’s name response

Sit, down, and stand on command

Sit/stay and down/stay

Wait (doorways, before exiting crate, before exiting vehicle)

Come or here (come when called)

Leave it (object on floor)

Drop it (release item from mouth)

Greetings (sit or stand calmly and politely for petting)

Let's go (walk on loose leash on Martingale or Gentle Leader head collar)

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Qualities of a good dog handler

As you work with your puppy during his first year, you will become proficient at handling him on leash in public. Here are some things to remember as you train your pup. Put them into practice and you will have great success.

Get and maintain puppy’s attention.

Give a command, reminding puppy with additional commands only when necessary.

Give puppy time to respond to initial command (assuming behavior is well learned).

Use normal tone of voice.

Know when to follow up with a reward.

Know how to praise and reward effectively.

Know when to repeat exercises to ensure success.

Know how to measure improvement.

Read puppy accurately in the event of anxiety or hesitation.

Understand even nuanced changes in puppy’s body language.

Release puppy calmly.

Apply appropriate self-evaluation and adjustment of training plan if necessary.

Request assistance from your trainer when needed. Intercept the following unwanted.

puppy behaviors early. Work closely with your trainer as needed.

Distracted, requiring extreme effort to get his attention.

Excited: pulling, jumping or vocalizing.

Responds to commands only for food.

Takes food roughly or without permission.

Responds to command but releases without permission.

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Trained service dog behaviors At 10 weeks your puppy understands a number of basic commands. By 8 months of age your puppy should have the ability to demonstrate most of the behaviors on the following list in public. Ready, set, go!

❐ Dog’s name (implied watch me)

❐ Sit (butt on ground or floor)

❐ Potty (toileting command)

❐ Let’s Go (loose leash walking)

❐ Come (moves quickly to the person calling

him)

❐ Kennel up (get in crate)

❐ No (prevents or stops an action)

❐ Down (lay down on belly)

❐ Wait (before exiting crate or car; at door)

❐ Free or Free Dog (release word – dog is

finished with a behavior)

❐ Watch me (make eye contact)

❐ Dress

(sit or stand with head still for collar, leash or vest)

❐ Leave it

(don’t look at it, nose it, or pick it up)

❐ Off (get off of something)

❐ Sit/stay (stay in a sit until released)

❐ Down/stay

(stay down until released; goal: 30 minutes)

❐ Mat

(go to a rug, towel, or dog bed and down/stay)

❐ Touch it

(touch something with nose)

❐ Heel

(sit, stand, or walk at handler’s LEFT side)

❐ Side

(sit, stand, or walk at handler’s RIGHT side)

❐ Front

(sit in front of and facing handler)

❐ Find

(a person or object by name)

❐ Drop

(release object from mouth)

❐ Around

(move behind handler, returning to heel position on opposite side)

❐ Stop

(immediately stop moving)

❐ Stand (includes implied Stay)

❐ Stand/stay (stay in standing position until

released)

❐ Load up (get into vehicle)

❐ Under (crawl under something)

❐ Up (get on something – grooming table,

bed, etc.)

❐ Back (walk backwards)

❐ Behind (walk behind handler)

❐ Turn (change direction)

❐ Paws

(front paws ONLY on table, counter, wall, etc.)

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Optional ❐ Push

(touch something with paw)

❐ Pull

(open door/drawer)

❐ Close it

(doors/drawers with nose)

❐ Lap

(places front paws across seated person’s lap, relaxing on elbows)

❐ Shop

(dog stands, sits or downs in between handler and something – like shelves of merchandise)

❐ Carry

(walk holding something in mouth)

❐ Hold it

(take something in mouth until released)

❐ Pick it up (put in mouth)

❐ Bring it (retrieve)

Just for fun ❐ Shake

❐ Roll over

❐ Spin

❐ Figure 8s

❐ Peek-a-Boo

❐ Crawl

❐ Kiss

❐ Take a bow

This is a list that is forever growing and changing. Feel free to add other behaviors you want to teach your service dog. And teach as many tricks as you like. It’s great fun for both you and your dog!

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Puppy development What follows is science-based information about the way your puppy develops. Neonatal Birth to 12 days. Obtain nutrition and stay warm. Transitional 13-20 days. Eyes open but not seeing well until 21days, puppy can crawl backwards and forward now, begins to walk, first teeth erupt around 20 days, tail wagging begins, reacts to sounds around 19 days but cannot locate source, moves bowels without stimulation. Awareness 21-28 days. First week puppy is able to use sight and hearing. This change happens abruptly so a stable environment at this period is critical. Can psychologically scar puppies if moved to new location. Pups have greatest need for mother and familiarity at this time. Learning begins in this stage; it is time to begin learning what it means to be a dog. Canine Socialization 21-49 days (3 to 7 weeks). Puppy learns to use species-specific behaviors that make him a dog. Practices body postures, facial expressions, and vocalizations and learns their effects on siblings. Plays chase games to learn coordination and timing, greeting behaviors to learn body postures and fight games teach him use of his body. Learns to accept discipline during this time from his mother. Learns bite inhibitions and weaning. Mother dogs set up the puppies for these lessons. Human Socialization 7-12 weeks. Best time for bringing pup to new home. Best time to introduce pup to things (in a positive manner) that he will be exposed to. Brain waves are the same as an adult dog at this age. Most rapid learning occurs. LEARNING AT THIS AGE IS PERMANENT. First Fear Impact 8-11 weeks. Any traumatic, painful or frightening experience at this time will have a more lasting effect on the puppy then if the event happened at any other time. It is the puppy’s perception that is important, not the owners. NO elective surgery should be done at this time. Puppy classes at this age need to be nonstressful for pup. Sonority Classification 13-16 weeks. Also known as age of cutting teeth and apron strings. Pup begins testing to see who is going to be pack leader. From 13 weeks on if puppy attempts to bite even in play it is an attempt to dominate. Pup is attempting to clarify and resolve the question of leadership. Establishing rules for pup extremely important at this time. Flight Instinct 4 to 8 months. Puppy begins testing his wings of independence. May suddenly begin not coming when called. Puppy still teething. Adult teeth come in by 6 months but not set into the jaw until 10 months. Still has a need to chew. Second Fear Impact 6 to 14 months. Corresponds with growth spurts. May be frightened of new things or even known things. Don’t reassure dog. It teaches the dog to be fearful. Don’t force dogs into fearful situations. Ignore scary thing so dog won’t be afraid. Use treats and positive methods to coach dog through event. Any training classes began at this age need to be fun and nonstressful for the dog.

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Always make training fun, even in formal training classes.

Bonding Bonding begins the moment your Warren Retrievers puppy arrives in your home. The diabetic in your home (or the primary diabetic if multiple Ds are in the home.) – the person who your Diabetic Alert Dog will come to know as his handler – starts the bonding process immediately by:

Spending as much time as possible with puppy

(playing, potty breaks, training, sleeping, etc.)

Hand feeding puppy for at least the first two weeks he is in the home

Sleeping with puppy next to the diabetic’s bed in his crate or in bed with the diabetic

(make sure puppy can’t fall out of bed and injure himself)

Making puppy part of the process of “checking” blood sugar levels, including being

awakened for night-time checks

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Scent training Scent training or rather the recognition of a change in how the diabetic smells, also begins immediately. Focus on your puppy’s “normal” behavior the first week he is in your home. Now, look for behavior that may seem meaningless, out of place, strange, or confusing to you. For example, if puppy took a potty break 30 minutes ago and starts getting antsy like he might have to go again ... stop before you take him out to potty again. Check the blood sugar level of your diabetic. If he is low or high or appears to being going low or high, your puppy may well have sensed that and didn’t know what to do. Have puppy watch the diabetic check their blood sugar. The diabetic can blow air gently toward the pup’s nose ... and let puppy have a taste of the blood sample. Make sure to follow each high and low test with the right praises, “Good High!”. Give this process a name so it will become a trained behavior, “Time to check!”. Follow that up with a reward. *Tip: giving several small treats versus one large treat will help encourage future alerting. Have puppy “touch” the diabetic whose blood sugar is off repeatedly, giving one small treat at a time. Large treats will take more time for puppy to chew, and will bring focus away from the diabetic, and towards the treat. If done consistently “Touch” will become one of your puppy’s forms of alerting. The goal is to let puppy know that the scent in which he showed interest is the most important thing in his life. Here is a partial list of behaviors to look for in a very young pup that may well lead to an alert:

Licking the face, ears, feet, legs, hands or arms of the diabetic

Sitting and staring at the diabetic, sometimes with head tilted

Playing with or trying to get Supplies such as Meter, Lancet Device, and or Test Strips

Whining/whimpering

Barking

Pawing at the diabetic

Whirling or acting out of control

Apparent anxiety (wants to help but doesn’t know how). Some people have described

this as the pup looking “worried”. Capturing these moments early in your puppy’s life will expedite his scent training. Missing these opportunities will slow the process. Watch your pup carefully. He will “get” his job far faster than you anticipate if you encourage him.

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Alert training An alert is a trained response to a specific phenomenon. In the case of a Diabetic Alert Dog (DAD), the dog is trained to alert to the diabetic’s fluctuating blood sugar levels. Often, rather than alerting on a specific number (example: 70 for lows, 280 for highs), DADs alert when the diabetic’s blood sugar level is on its way up or down. Working diabetic alert dogs have a variety of alerts. Some have been taught to bark. While a bark alert may be a good thing in the home, a DAD trained for public access should not be taught a bark alert. Why? Do you really want your dog to bark at work, in school, at the movies, on an airplane, in church, etc.? Service dogs should be unobtrusive in public and barking defeats that purpose. Other DADs have been taught to paw the diabetic as an alert. Since labs are large breed dog, the idea of a 70-pound dog enthusiastically pawing a child is not is good idea. So what does that leave? The nose nudge is a “touch it” on steroids. It means “touch it with your nose, puppy”. A pup who learns this alert will be taught to insist that you pay attention, nudging you until your acknowledge him. The nose nudge works well everywhere, including in the car, restaurants, movies, etc. You can also teach your pup to bring your test kit as an alert. This is great for around the house but may not be the best for in public.

*Note: Your DAD can have more than one alert.

You can also train a new alert at any time if you don’t like the one you have. The goal is that your dog be trained to be insistent, i.e., continuing to alert until the diabetic checks himself. Naturally occurring responses

As a puppy begins recognizing fluctuating BG levels, he may offer a behavior like licking the diabetic’s face or sitting in front of the diabetic and staring at him. This indicates that the puppy knows something is going on and he has figured out he should pay attention. Encourage any response in the beginning, since anything that is ignored will go away.

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Disaster preparedness Think about the very worst case scenario. You have to leave your house at a moment’s notice

because of a natural disaster, fire, or other emergency. How to you prepare for the quick

evacuation of your service dog and any other pets in your home? Here is the ASPCA’s plan for

disaster preparedness. Some of this may not apply to your service dog. Please take away from

this section, at the very least, the knowledge that you NEED an emergency disaster plan in place

for all of your family members, human and animal.

_____________

Emergencies come in many forms, and they may require anything from a brief absence from your home to permanent evacuation. Each type of disaster requires different measures to keep your pets safe. The best thing you can do for yourself and your pets is to be prepared. Step 1. Get a Rescue Alert Sticker

This easy-to-use sticker will let people know that pets are inside your home. Make sure it is visible to rescue workers, and that it includes

1) the types and number of pets in your household; 2) the name of your veterinarian; and 3) your veterinarian’s phone number.

If you must evacuate with your pets, and if time allows, write “EVACUATED” across the stickers. To get a free emergency pet alert sticker for your home, please fill out [the ASPCA’s] online ORDER FORM; please allow 6-8 weeks for delivery. Your local pet supply store may also sell similar stickers. Step 2. Arrange a Safe Haven

Arrange a safe haven for your pets in the event of evacuation. DO NOT LEAVE YOUR PETS BEHIND. Remember, if it isn’t safe for you, it isn’t safe for your pets. They may become trapped or escape and be exposed to numerous life-threatening hazards. Note that not all Red Cross disaster shelters accept pets, so it is imperative that you have determined where you will bring your pets ahead of time:

Contact your veterinarian for a list of preferred boarding kennels and facilities.

Ask your local animal shelter if they provide emergency shelter or foster care for pets.

Identify hotels or motels outside of your immediate area that accept pets.

Ask friends and relatives outside your immediate area if they would be willing to take in

your pet.

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Step 3. Emergency Supplies and Traveling Kits

Keep an Evac-Pack and supplies handy for your pets. Make sure that everyone in the family knows where it is. This kit should be clearly labeled and easy to carry. Items to consider keeping in or near your pack include:

Pet first-aid kit and guide book (ask your vet what to include, or visit the ASPCA Store to

buy one online)

3-7 days’ worth of canned (pop-top) or dry food (be sure to rotate every two months)

Disposable litter trays (aluminum roasting pans are perfect)

Litter or paper toweling

Liquid dish soap and disinfectant

Disposable garbage bags for clean-up

Pet feeding dishes

Extra harness and leash (Note: harnesses are recommended for safety and security)

Photocopies of medical records and a waterproof container with a two-week supply of

any medicine your pet requires (Remember, food and medications need to be rotated out of your emergency kit—otherwise they may go bad or become useless.)

Bottled water, at least 7 days’ worth for each person and pet (store in a cool, dry place

and replace every two months)

A traveling bag, crate or sturdy carrier, ideally one for each pet

Flashlight

Blanket (for scooping up a fearful pet)

Recent photos of your pets (in case you are separated and need to make “Lost” posters)

Especially for cats: Pillowcase or EvackSack, toys, scoopable litter

Especially for dogs: Long leash and yard stake, toys and chew toys, a week’s worth of

cage liner. You should also have an emergency kit for the human members of the family. Items to include:

Batteries Duct tape Flashlight Radio Multi-tool Tarp Rope

Permanent marker

Spray paint Baby wipes Protective

clothing & footwear

Extra cash

Rescue Whistle Important phone

numbers Extra medication Copies of medical

& insurance information.

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Step 4. Choose “Designated Caregivers”

This step will take considerable time and thought. When choosing a temporary caregiver, consider someone who lives close to your residence. He or she should be someone who is generally home during the day while you are at work or has easy access to your home. A set of keys should be given to this trusted individual. This may work well with neighbors who have pets of their own—you may even swap responsibilities, depending upon who has accessibility. When selecting a permanent caregiver, you’ll need to consider other criteria. This is a person to whom you are entrusting the care of your pet in the event that something should happen to you. When selecting this “foster parent,” consider people who have met your pet and have successfully cared for animals in the past. Be sure to discuss your expectations at length with a permanent caregiver, so he or she understands the responsibility of caring for your pet. Step 5. Evacuation Preparation

If you must evacuate your home in a crisis, plan for the worst-case scenario. If you think you may be gone for only a day, assume that you may not be allowed to return for several weeks. When recommendations for evacuation have been announced, follow the instructions of local and state officials. To minimize evacuation time, take these simple steps:

Store an emergency kit and leashes as close to an exit as possible.

Make sure all pets wear collars and tags with up-to-date identification. Your pet’s ID tag

should contain his name, telephone number, and any urgent medical needs. Be sure to write your pet’s name, your name and contact information on your pet’s carrier.

The ASPCA recommends microchipping your pet as a more permanent form of

identification. A microchip is implanted in the animal’s shoulder area, and can be read by scanner at most animal shelters.

Always bring pets indoors at the first sign or warning of a storm or disaster. Pets can

become disoriented and wander away from home during a crisis.

Consider your evacuation route and call ahead to make arrangements for boarding your

pet outside of the danger zone at the first sign of disaster.

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Step 6. Geographic and Climatic Considerations

Do you live in an area that is prone to certain natural catastrophes, such as tornadoes,

earthquakes or floods? If so, you should plan accordingly.

Determine well in advance which rooms offer safe havens. These rooms should be clear

of hazards such as windows, flying debris, etc.

Choose easy-to-clean areas such as utility rooms, bathrooms, and basements as safe

zones.

Access to a supply of fresh water is particularly important. In areas that may lose

electricity, fill up bathtubs and sinks ahead of time to ensure that you have access to water during a power outage or other crises.

In the event of flooding, go to the highest location in your home, or a room that has

access to counters or high shelves where your animals can take shelter. If emergency officials recommend that you stay in your home, it’s crucial that you keep your pets with you. Keep your Evac-Pack and supplies close at hand. Your pets may become stressed during the in-house confinement, so you may consider crating them for safety and comfort.


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