Please note: This document is both a �how-to� for certain basic maintenance tasks plus an outline of tasks for winterizing a Comet 250. It was compiled from many sources by a Comet owner who is not a professional mechanic. It may not be 100% accurate and may not relate to your exact set-up (for example, your Comet may be equipped with a vacuum-operated fuel valve and not a gravity-fed fuel valve as described below), but was created to be a helpful guide or starting point. It�s also not meant as a promotion for certain products. There are other options for winterizing a bike than those listed here, like draining the gas tank and coating the inside with oil � so do some additional research to find the right procedure for you, and read the Comet Owner�s and Service Manuals. Also, the tips and suggestions mentioned in this guide should not override any instructions on the products you decide to use.

Servicing and Winterizing a Comet 250 General storing tips: When storing a bike for less than a month in mild temperatures that don�t go below freezing, you do not need to do anything unless you have some electronics (like an alarm) that constantly pull from the battery. In that case, charge the battery or disconnect the electronics. For slightly longer storage, disconnect the negative battery terminal. In mild to cold temperatures, gasoline can be stored unstabilized for two to three months, but draining the float bowls is always a good idea when storing a bike for a long period. When not riding a bike for a week or more in very hot temperatures, getting a fuel stabilizer into the system might be a good idea as gasoline may go bad faster in hotter temperatures.

Safety Materials

• Long-sleeved shirt or sweater • Several rubber gloves • Safety goggles • Fire extinguisher • Squirt bottle filled with water • Metal/glass container with cover and water to hold oily/lubricated rags

General Materials

• Space heater (if winterizing in an unheated garage) • Swing-arm stand (or something similar to hold the bike upright) • Motorcycle tool box, plus torque wrenches, needle nose pliers, grip pliers, and screwdrivers • Ruler (to measure chain slack) and tape measure (to measure rear axle alignment) • Air compressor (for pumping up tires) • Tire pressure gauge • Rags and paper towels • Cans of fogging oil, compressed air, brake cleaner and WD-40 • Bottle of brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4) • Bubble wrap and bag (for storing windshield) • Two plastic bags with no holes and rubber bands (for covering air in-take and muffler) • Mothballs (for animal prevention in storage location)

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Washing

• Scrubber, sponge, soft cloths, bucket, hose, car soap, and car wax • Towel (if not riding the bike to dry it) and rags (for waxing) • Vinyl and rubber protectant (use a non-silicone / non-petroleum based protectant on vinyl seats) • Chain cleaner, chain lubricant and lever grease • Soft tooth brush (if the chain is really dirty) • Scrubbing pad (to get rust spots off the chain in the spring)

Fuel Tank and Engine

• Five-gallon gas container and long funnel (should reach from fuel valve to gas container) • Fuel line plug (round pencil) • Bottle of Sta-Bil (or similar fuel stabilizer) • Anti-seize compound • Metal, glass or plastic container (to catch the float bowl gas) • New spark plugs and new air filter (if they need replacing)

Oil Change

• Container/pan to drain the old oil into • Larger collection pan and newspaper (for catching any stray oil, especially from oil filter cavity) • Short funnel (for pouring new oil) • 1500ml (2 quarts) of motor oil (non-synthetic, non-energy conserving oil recommended) • New oil filter • New drain plug gasket and new o-rings (in case the old ones need replacing)

Battery

• Wire brush and backing soda mixed in warm water (for cleaning the battery, if needed) • Dielectric grease (when putting the battery back in the spring, if needed)

THE WINTERIZING PROCEDURE

1�Choose a Good Long-term Storage Location

The location should be flat and dry. If possible, keep the bike indoors away from extreme temperatures. Do not store it where chemical fumes, electric motors or heaters (ozone-producers) can dry out and attack the bike�s rubber parts

• If winterizing outdoors, choose a dry day � you do not want rain to get in the way of the oil change, air filter cleaning, etc. Have a fire extinguisher on hand when working on the oil or fuel systems and wear safety goggles

3 2�Check Brake Fluid

• Thoroughly clean off the brake fluid reservoirs and top off the fluid if necessary

• Do not let any fluid get onto the bike�s paint

• Remember to change out the brake fluid every two years

3�Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike

• Remove the front fender and wash and wax it as a separate item

• Empty the trunk and then wet the bike with a low-pressure rinse, keeping water off the carburetors (and air filter) and out of the muffler � maybe cover the open end of the muffler with a plastic bag and rubber band

• With a soapy rag, wipe down as thoroughly as you can the greasy areas, and any areas covered in brake dust (wheels, fender, �undercarriage�, calipers, etc.)

� Some people use a degreaser such as Simple Green for this, but others warn that such products promote corrosion

• With car soap and water, clean the entire bike with a soft sponge. Re-clean the spots mentioned in the previous step last. Rinse the soap off

• Dry the bike off, especially around the seats and the entire frame and welds

• Wipe all chrome areas with glass cleaner

� Make sure there are no fingerprints on the exhaust or any other chrome areas that get hot

• Before waxing the painted parts, take off the seats so you don�t get wax on them. Now wax the painted parts

• Wipe a non-silicone based protectant on rubber and vinyl parts (but not the tires!), including the seats. Put the seats back on

• Lubricate all necessary points and put trunk items back in

• If not winterizing, go for a ride to dry off any remaining water and to warm up the drive chain. Now clean and lubricate the chain

� The chain should be lubricated every 1000km, when the chain looks dry or dirty, or after being out in a heavy rain. First, place newspaper or a piece of cardboard in between the rear tire and the chain � you do not want chain cleaner or lubricant on the tire. Hold a rag under the chain when spraying chain cleaner onto it in order to catch the sludge. If the chain is really dirty, use a soft toothbrush too.

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4 4�Take the Bike for One Last Ride and Fill Up

• Ride around for at least 20 minutes to get the engine hot and burn off any remaining water from the wash. Try to have the tank at least half empty (this to help with mixing the Sta-Bil)

• Go to a gas station and add the correct amount of Sta-Bil to the tank first before completely filling the tank with gasoline. Ride around for several minutes to work the stabilized gas through the entire fuel system

5�Windshield, Trunk Items and Muffler

• At the storage location set the fuel valve and ignition to �off�, and place the bike on the swingarm stand. Take off the windshield (if you have one), clean it, and pack it away � tighten the headlamp screws

• Wipe away any grime picked up from the ride. Take trunk items out and store them separately

• Spray some WD-40 into the muffler, preferably when it is still warm (hold the spray nozzle so it doesn�t shoot into the muffler by accident)

6�Clean and Lube Drive Chain

• Clean and thoroughly lube both sides of the chain (see notes above in Wash section), as lubrication helps prevent surface rust from developing over the winter

• See if the chain is in good condition or if it will need replacing in the spring. Look for loose pins, excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or binding links. Count out 20 pins and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4 mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can pull the chain off more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing

7�Remove the Battery

• Remove the front seat and clear dust and dirt off the battery area with compressed air

• Make sure your ignition is set to �off�. Move the CDI unit (above the battery) out of the way

• Disassemble the negative battery wire first. Disassemble the positive battery wire second

• Remove the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush if needed

• Clean the battery box and the battery with a baking soda/warm water mixture if necessary, and dry thoroughly. Store the battery separately in-doors on a float charger

• Put the CDI unit back in place

5 8�Change the Oil and the Oil Filter

The manual says to wait until the exhaust pipes and oil drain plug are cool enough to touch with bare hands before draining the oil. It also says to clean the air filter with each oil change

• Wear long sleeves and rubber gloves � used oil is toxic

• Remove the engine oil filler cap (1)

• Drain the old oil into a pan by removing the drain plug (2) (21mm). Oil will continue to drip out for quite a while � leave the pan in place

• Remove the three nuts (3) (10mm) holding the filter cap (6) in place. Oil will flow out from the filter cavity, so place a collection pan beneath it. Do not lose the filter spring (4) and o-ring (5)

• Check the small o-ring at the back of the filter cavity (C) � replace if necessary. Replace the old oil filter with a new one

• Check the condition of the filter cap o-ring (5). Manual says to use a new o-ring each time you replace the filter, but this is not really necessary � just check its condition and have a spare. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the o-ring before installing

• Put the filter cap back on, making sure the filter spring and o-ring are still in place

� Oil filter cover nuts (10mm) torque: 7-11 Nm

• Clean the oil strainer (A) when changing the oil

• Replace the drain plug gasket (B) and put the drain plug back in

� Oil drain plug (21mm) torque: 18-20 Nm

• Pour the new oil through the filler hole (1). Do not over fill. Check the level. Keep it between the F and L

� 1450ml of oil required for an oil change

� 1500ml required when also changing the filter (1 qt = 950ml, so 1500ml = 1 qt + 550ml)

• Put the oil filter cap (1) back on

• Run the bike at idling speed for a few seconds to get the new oil through the system. Make sure there are no leaks at the filler cap, the filter cap, or the drain plug

• Stop the engine and wait a few minutes. If the engine oil level is low, add more oil until it is between the F and L � preferably 1mm under the F line

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6 9�Drain the Float Bowls and Drain / Remove the Fuel Tank

• Make sure the ignition and fuel valve are both set to �off�, and have a fire extinguisher on hand

• Lay down a towel to set the tank on once it�s removed

• Drain the float bowls

� Put a container under the carburetor drain hose, then unscrew one carburetor drain valve (A) at a time to drain each float bowl

� Pour this gas into the gas container

• Drain the tank (remember, gasoline is highly explosive)

� Put the gas container in place and have a long funnel ready to catch any gas that flows out of the disconnected fuel line or the fuel filter in the next step

� Disconnect � at the fuel filter � the fuel line that runs from the fuel valve to the fuel filter

� Turn the fuel valve to �on� and use that disconnected fuel line to direct the gas into the funnel and container

� After the �on� position runs dry, switch the valve to �reserve� and drain that gasoline too

� When the tank is empty, reset the fuel valve to �off� and plug the open end of the fuel line

� Wipe away any gas that got on the bike

• Unscrew the rear mounting bolt (12mm) holding down the fuel tank � do not lose the two parts of the bolt assembly

• Disconnect the sender wires for the fuel gauge

• Disconnect the fuel valve from the frame (10mm bolt)

• Gently lift the back of the tank and pull back on it to remove it from the front rollers, making sure the fuel valve does not get caught in the other fuel lines

• Lift the tank assembly off and set it aside on the towel

10�Clean and Cover the Air Filter

• Remove the four screws (1). Pull up the cover and the air filter (2)

• Check the condition of the filter for tears, etc. Replace now or in the spring if necessary

• Gently shoot compressed air into the filter, making sure to not tear the filter

• Reassemble, and cover the filter with a plastic bag secured with a rubber band (to prevent animal habitation)

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7 11�Check the Spark Plugs and Spray Fogging Oil into the Cylinders

Do not get the spark plug wires mixed up. Service one spark plug and fog one cylinder at a time if necessary

• To access the front spark plug, the oil cooler must be moved. Unscrew both bolts at the top holding it in place and swing the cooler aside

• Remove all dirt from the cylinder head with a rag and compressed air, then pull out the plug cap

• Before removing the plug, blow out any dirt in the plug well with compressed air

• With the spark plug removed, spray a small amount of fogging oil into the cylinder

� Hold the spray nozzle so it doesn�t shoot into the cylinder by accident

• Use a rag to block up the plug well opening

• If the spark plug needs servicing, clean and gap it, or replace

� Remove any carbon deposits with a wire or pin and adjust the spark plug gap to 0.7-0.8 mm, measuring with a thickness gauge

� Check to see if the electrodes are worn or burnt. If it is extremely worn or burnt, replace the plug. Also replace the plug if it has a broken insulator, damaged thread, etc.

• Apply a light coat of anti-seize to the plug threads. Reinstall the spark plug being careful not to cross-thread it. Hand-tighten using only the spark plug socket and extension, then torque it properly with a torque wrench

� Spark plug torque: 20-25 Nm

• Put the oil cooler back in place (mounting bolt torque not given in manual)

• Put on the plug cap and repeat this procedure with the rear cylinder and spark plug

12�Put the Fuel Tank and Front Seat Back On

• Make sure the two small rubber bumpers are still in place on the sides of the tank

• Carefully lay the tank assembly in place on the bike

• Reconnect the fuel gauge sender wires

• Lift the rear of the tank and gently push it back onto the front rollers

� It may be best to straddle the bike and hold it in place with your legs while you do this

• Reassemble and tighten the rear tank mounting bolt (12mm)

• Reconnect the fuel line from the fuel valve to the fuel filter

• Reconnect the fuel valve to the frame (10mm bolt)

• Refill the tank with the gas in the gas container

• Wipe the tank clean in case any gas got on it

8 13�Protect the Bike�s Exposed Metal and Aluminum

Do not apply chemicals or lubricants to brake pads, brake rotors, fork tubes or tires. If you get chemicals on the brakes, clean them thoroughly with brake cleaner

• Spray or wipe WD-40 on the exposed metal, chrome and aluminum parts of the bike, particularly the underside and the welds

14�Cover the Muffler

• Cover the open end of the muffler with a plastic bag secured with rubber bands

15�Oil the Front Suspension

• Put some motor oil on your finger and spread it around the area where the fork tubes enter the fork sliders. Hold the front brake and work the front suspension

16�Final Steps

• Reset the Craftsman torque wrench to 25% or less of capacity if it was used

• Inflate both tires to about 5 psi higher than normal (34 front, 37 rear)

• Check the wear condition of all brake pads. Order more over the winter if needed

• Move the bike to its final storage location. Lift both tires off the ground if possible � but if you cannot, it�s no big deal. Place a piece of wood or rubber under any tire not lifted off the ground so it is not touching any potentially damp surface, like concrete

• Take off the seats and store them indoors

• Lock the bike and cover the seat areas. Cover the entire bike only if there is good air circulation in the storage area � this to prevent condensation buildup on the bike and tires

• Put some mothballs (whole and crushed) around the bike to repel animals

• What to do with those oil/lubricant soaked rags

� If keeping them: Dry out the rags by spreading them in a well-ventilated area, then wash by hand and let air dry. Store in a metal container sealed with a tight lid, preferably of metal too

� If disposing of them: Put them in a sealed glass or metal container filled with water

• Call insurance company and tell them the bike is in winter storage and will not be ridden for several months. Also let them know if the storage location has changed

9 Over the Winter

• Do not run the engine, as short runs will promote condensation inside the engine

• Regularly check the tires to make sure they are not going flat

• Work the levers and check lubrication points a few times

• Make sure nothing is leaking

• The float bowls will most likely refill with gas over time. Maybe re-drain them once over the winter

• Purchase new parts like brake pads, spark plugs, and air filter if necessary

• Charge the battery with a product like the 12V Battery Tender Junior

� Locate the charger as far away from the battery as is allowed by the length of the output cable harness. Do not set the charger above the battery

� Never set the charger on a surface constructed from combustible material, or on a surface that may get wet

� When leaving the battery to charge for extended periods of time (several weeks plus), check if the battery is unusually warm. If it is, disconnect and allow to cool

� Do not store the battery in the vicinity of sparks or an open flame (like a gas water heater or cigarette lighter)

� Do not operate the charger where ventilation is restricted

10 In the Spring 1�Call Insurance Company and Tell Them the Bike Is Coming out of Storage

• Do this at least one day before you take out the bike

• Also tell them if the storage location is changing

2�Lift Tank, Remove Bag Covering Air Box and Recheck Fuel Lines

• Lift the tank by first removing the fuel valve from the frame and allowing it to hang free, so when lifting the back of the tank the fuel lines are not popped off. Or drain the tank first if you feel this is safer

• Remove the bag covering the air box intake

• After the tank is back in place, make sure all fuel line connections and the fuel valve bolt are tight, and make sure the fuel gauge sender wires are connected properly

3�Reinstall the Battery and Put the Seats Back On

• Clean the terminals with a wire brush or compressed air

• Reassemble the positive terminal first

• Reassemble the negative terminal second

• Lube the terminals lightly with a dielectric grease if necessary

4�Drain the Float Bowls

• Drain them again to make sure no water condensation built up in them

5�Perform a Thorough Inspection

• Make sure all nuts, bolts and screws are tight, including:

� Exhaust pipe nuts (1) (12mm): 18-28 Nm

� Engine mounting bolts (2): 40-60 Nm

� Muffler mounting bolt (3) (14mm): 20-30 Nm

� Rear axle nut (23mm): 90-140 Nm

� Swing arm pivot nut: 45-70 Nm

� Gear shifter and linkage

• Check tire conditions and pressures

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• Check all fluid levels and brake pad conditions

• Make sure the gas cap vents are clear

• Make sure all fuel lines are in place and secure

• Check clutch cable condition

� The usual wear points for cables are at the ends, where they enter the sheath. To inspect the clutch cable at the lever end, squeeze the lever to pull the cable out of the sheath. That first bit inside the sheath is where the wear will most likely be

6�Change the Oil if Necessary

• Some say to change the oil if the bike was stored for more than two months. Others say if you changed the oil before storing the bike, you do not need to change it again, and whatever condensation built up in the engine will be boiled off once the engine is up to temperature

• If you will be changing the oil, running the engine until warm will thin the oil and make draining it easier. You do not need to change the filter if you replaced it when winterizing, but remove the oil from the filter area. Remember:

� 1450ml of oil required for an oil change (if not changing the filter)

� 1500ml required when also changing the filter (1 qt = 950ml, so 1500ml = 1 qt + 550ml)

• Before starting the engine:

� Make sure to take off any plastic bags covering the tail pipe and be sure you�ve removed the bag covering the air intake

� Turn the fuel valve to �on� and wait a few minutes to get fuel into the system. Open the throttle a few times. Remember: FINE-C

� It probably won�t spring to life right away, and do not race the engine until the oil has had a chance to spread. Fogging oil in the cylinders might cause some smoke at first

7�Wash, Dry, Wax and Lubricate the Bike

• Thoroughly clean every part of the bike, especially if you sprayed a rust preventative on the exposed metal parts and put oil on the front suspension

• Clean and lubricate the chain. Use a scrubbing pad to brush off any rust spots that may have appeared over the winter

8�Clean, Inspect/Adjust, and then Lube Drive Chain

• Clean the chain (see notes above in Wash section)

• Make sure the chain is in good condition and properly adjusted. It should have 20-30 mm of slack. Look for loose pins, excessive wear, damaged rollers, dry or rusted links, kinked or binding links. Check that the chain is centered on the teeth of the rear sprocket

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• Count out 20 pins and measure the distance. If it exceeds 319.4 mm the chain must be replaced. Or, if you can pull the chain off more than half a rear sprocket tooth, the chain needs replacing

• If readjustment is required:

� Loosen the rear wheel axle nut (23mm) (1)

� Loosen or tighten both chain adjusters (A and B) until the chain has 20-30 mm (0.79 to 1.18 inches) of slack in the middle between the front and rear sprockets. The marks (C and D) on both chain adjusters should be at the same position on the scale to ensure that the front and rear wheels are correctly aligned

� Check for slack using several points on the chain, as some can be tighter than others

� Don�t trust the marks alone. Use a tape measure to measure the length from the swing arm pivot point to the center of the rear axle, on both sides of the bike

� Retighten the axle nut (while using a 22mm socket wrench to hold the rear axle nut on the other side of the bike) and inspect again for proper chain slack and alignment

� Rear axle nut (23mm) torque: 90-140 Nm

� Lube the chain (see notes above in Wash section)

9�Trunk Items and Registration Papers

• Put back on board all trunk items, and make sure the bike�s registration paperwork is in its proper location (pocket of riding jacket recommended)

10�Run the Engine

• Run the engine for a few minutes (see notes in step 7) and then shut it down

• Make sure there are no leaks in either the fuel or oil systems

• Go for a ride to burn off the water from the wash and use up as much of the stabilized gas as possible. Maybe go to a parking lot to practice too. Fill up with new gas

11�Take Dated Photos of the Bike for Insurance Purposes

12�Set up Appointment for Yearly Inspection

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