Shades of Denim

August 2011 – October 2011

Cohort 2008-2012

Pearl Academy of Fashion, Jaipur

Soumya Mohanty

Acknowledgements

With a lot of gratitude I express my heartiest feelings to the organization Aarvee

Denims as well as the whole team under whom I was successfully able to learn out of

my research in an effective manner. I am highly obliged to Aarvee, for giving me the

precious opportunity to undertake my research in such an esteemed organization. I am

thankful to the Mr. Pankaj Arora for providing me this golden opportunity.

I would like to appreciate Mr. Prashant Mehta who took the effort of mentoring the

whole approach at every step and yet making it very individualistic. His holistic

approach right from the point of introducing me to every wash of the denim to the

understanding the loopholes behind certain designs was very keen. My sincere thanks

to him is because he even persuaded me to approach to each of the department and

understand the production method. My very sincere gratitude towards Mrs. Vandana,

who helped me introducing the people of the company and trying to help me out in

every possible way.

Lastly my hearty thanks for each and every person in Aarvee Denims who have been a

part of my help to understand the research project and finally leading me to

successfully completing my project.

Last but not the least, I would like to provide my sincere thanks to our Director Mr.

Arindam Das for allowing us for such a enlightening industrial exposure. I am truly

grateful to Mrs. Taruna Vasu for providing her timely essential feedback over the

various mails, which as a matter of fact helped to work upon my mistakes. It specifically

helped us to develop the basic idea about the industry and know how the fabric

behaves.

CONTENTS

1.0 INCEPTION 1

2.0 DENIM – A CASE STUDY 2

3.0 DENIM TODAY AND TOMORROW – A MARKET SURVEY 3

4.0 RESEARCH 8

4.1 RESEARCH AIMS & OBJECTIVES 8

4.2 RESEARCH METHODS 8

5.0 BASIC WASHES 9

5.1 STONE WASH 9

5.2 ENZYME WASH 10

5.3 BASIC BLEACHING 11

5.4 ENZYME BLEACHING 12

6.0 BASIC STEPS FOR WASHING 13

6.1 PRETREATMENT 14

6.2 ENZYME OR STONE WASH 14

6.3 CLEAN UP 15

6.4 BLEACHING 15

6.5 TINTING OR DYING 16

6.6 SOFTENING & FINISHING 17

7.0 THE E-FACTOR 18

7.1 OZONE TECHNOLOGY 20

7.2 OZONE FADING 22

8.0 MY DIRECTION 22

9.0 ANALYSIS 26

10.0 CONCLUSION 27

11.0 BIBLIOGRAPHY 28

Soumya Mohanty # 1

1.0 INCEPTION

„Fashion is today incomplete without denim. Denim comes in all forms, looks and

washes to match with every dress. It would be difficult to believe that the same denim

was originally employed in clothing for the pants and overalls worn by miners on the

west coast (US). A number of technological factors have contributed to making the

fashion icon that it is today – including vast improvements in spinning, weaving,

finishing etc.‟(http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-

washing-basic-steps-and-guide/) [Accessed 2011, September 20] One of the most

important parts of creation of the beautiful denims jeans is the washing. Washing plays

such an important part in the denim chain because of the umpteen effects that the

consumers are looking for on their jeans.

Denim to me has seemed an unending research, a revolution, and staple fabric, and

some where is has become that necessary article in everyone‟s wardrobe. When one

enters the college campus or a walks out in the public, the most seen and used is

denims, because of its wear and tear factor. And hence, its durability and its looks

(washing) make it popular worldwide.

Denim being rugged cotton twill weaves, where its weft passes under two or more warp

yarns, which can be seen on the other side of the fabrics and hence makes it

differentiable from the rest of the fabrics. Due to its one yarn being indigo blue in color,

it produces the familiar diagonal ribbing more identifiable on the reverse of the fabric.

The beauty of the fabrics reveals itself when it is washed, which is called the finished

look to the fabric. „The story of each wearer has been indelibly recorded on each pair-

each abrasion pattern, area of wear and whiskering, each grease stain are telltale signs

of what each pair has lived through.‟

(http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-washing-basic-

steps-and-guide/) [Accessed 2011, August 29]

Soumya Mohanty # 2

This research report will explore the visual and narrative ways of various washes of

denims and even analyzing its impact over the market, the brands and trends, and

lastly over the environment in a microscopic level. Through this I will demonstrate

how the various brands complete amongst themselves to become the best seller of

the market. The main angle of this project would be from the research or you can

say an explorer point of view. I have tried getting a bit of experimentation as well as

a ting of fun to the kind of samples has worked upon.

2.0 DENIM – THE EVOLUTION FROM THE HISTORY

In the eighteenth century as trade, slave labor, and cotton plantations increased,

workers wore jean cloth because the material was very strong and it did not wear

out easily. Sooner as it moved on towards the 19th century the gold miners wanted

clothes that were strong and did not tear easily. „In 1853, Loeb Strauss started a

wholesale business, supplying clothes. Strauss later changed his name from Loeb to

Levi. Very few denims were made during the World War 2, they were officially

introduced to the world by Americans soldiers, who quite often used to were them

once they are off duty. Sooner companies like wrangler and lee began to complete

with Levi for a share in international market. Sooner in 1950 denim became popular

with young people, it was the symbol of teenage rebel in TV shows and movies of

that time. A lot of styles started coming in denim as Fashion grew and hence

different styles and cuts were introduced to denims.‟

(http://www.designboom.com/eng/education/denim2.html ) [Accessed 2011,

September 16]

The old mass market has segmented, fragmented, shattered into a multitude of

mini, micro and niche markets. The last generation has a vast quantity of brands to

choose from, a different perception of the cult value of owning small insider labels

and a fanatical loyalty only to what's hot on a daily basis. Levis has recently

launched in Europe and set to be introduced to the US market in autumn his

Soumya Mohanty # 3

'engineered jeans', which are ergonomically designed and reshaped to follow the

contours of the body. „'visionaries' - in the high drama, high class, high-heeled world

of fashion publishing, a limited edition magazine that costs an uncompromising £150

,collaborates for their issue 31 (February 2000) with Levi‟s on the theme blue. In

1999, Levi‟s sales totaled $5.1 billion, down 28 % from $7.1 billion in 1996. They

now announced the launch of a new advertising and marketing campaign called

'make them your own'.‟ (http://www.designboom.com/eng/education/denim2.html)

[Accessed 2011, October 07] The campaign is one of Levi‟s most aggressive sales

pitches to date. The theme is narcissistic youth, featuring young people

checking themselves out in their blue jeans. All of the ads target 18 to 24-year-olds,

the consumer segment that Levi‟s lost to competitive brands like Tommy Hilfiger and

Gap. While the budget for the campaign was not disclosed, industry analysts are

billing it as the largest advertising effort in Levi‟s history.

3.0 DENIM TODAY AND TOMORROW - A MARKET SURVEY

The denim jeans industry is one of the most fragmented industries with several

thousand companies targeting a myriad of customer segments and niche markets.

The high concentration of players, both large and small, has resulted in fierce

competition. Consequently, most of the denim companies, particularly the premium

brands, invest heavily in differentiating and marketing efforts. Most brands choose

either new materials or traditional fibers to differentiate. Customers purchase denims

for their fit, style, and fashion; therefore, brands focus on a particular customer

segment such as teen girls or forty-plus men and then attempt to offer jeans that

provides the right fit for the group.

Soumya Mohanty # 4

World Denim Market

The world denim market is likely to grow continuously for the next few years.

However, supply is growing at a faster pace.

•World Jeans Market- 51.6$ Billion in 2007

•Expected to become 56.2$ billion by 2014

•Global demand growing at 5%, supply at 8%

•Global Denim fabric production in 2006- 2.7 billion mtrs.

•Over 50 percent of denim production is based in Asia with China, India, Turkey,

Pakistan and Bangladesh.

•Between EU, US and China, 70% of world jeans consumption.

Estimated Share of Jeans Purchase By Region

North America: 39%

Western Europe: 20%

Japan & Korea: 10%

Rest of the world: 31%

Soumya Mohanty # 5

No. Of Denim Mills Worldwide

Region No. Of Denim Mills

Asia(China) 297

Asia(Other countries) 104

North America 9

Europe 41

Latin America 46

Africa 15

Australia 1

Total Denim Mills (World) 513

Note: The above figures might not be accurate. They are an approximate number which helped me

to get a brief idea about the figures

Forecasts For Denim Market – 2010

In volume terms:

•the developed world will not grow at all, remaining at 1240 million units of jeans.

•the rest of the world will grow by 13 per cent to 783 million units.

•In total this means that world volume growth will be 4.8 per cent, delivering 2024

million units.

Soumya Mohanty # 6

In Value terms:

•Value growth is effectively zero. In the short term the world market will grow by

1.5 per cent in volume and will fall by 3 per cent in value in long term. This is

because of:

-continuing downwards price pressure from retailers in USA and Europe,

-elimination of tariff and quota barriers to low cost imports from the developing

world

-Overcapacity Global installed capacity of denim.

Denim Market In India

• There are 23 denim mills in India

•600 million mtrs/ Year denim manufacturing capacity (installed/under installation)

•Approx. 79 % of the jeans sold in India are tagged with a label, the rest by

tailors and localized manufacturers.

•The menswear obtains a majority share of the Indian market with around 75 per

cent, women‟s wear at around 15 per cent and kids wear at around 10 percent.

(This is because the Indians are still very conservative with most of the denim wear

in women‟s segment being worn in the cities)

•Domestic Market sells approx. 300 million meters/ annum: Domestic denim market

of India is huge and growing. The per capita consumption of jeans in India is,

however, only about 0.3 jeans per person p.a.

•Whereas export of denim fabrics is around 170 -180 million meters/

annum.

Soumya Mohanty # 7

Indian Domestic Denim Market

Denim Fabric Selling Centre

Sales/Month (In Million Mtrs.)

Sales/Annum (in Million Mtrs.)

Ahmedabad 0.6 7.2

Delhi &Nearby 10 120

Mumbai 6 72

Ulhasnagar 3 36

Kolkata 2.5 30

Bellari 0.5 6

Indore 0.3 3.6

Others 1 12

Total 23.9 286.8

The domestic denim market in India consumes about 300 million mtrs of

denim currently and at a 10% CAGR, can reach about 530 million mtrs in 2015.

Key players dominating the global denim jeans market include 7 For All Mankind,

Aarvee Denims and Exports Ltd, Arvind Limited, Black Peony (Group) Co., Ltd, Diesel

S.p.A, Edwin Company, Gap Inc., James Jeans Dry Age Denim LLC, Lee Jeans, Levi

Strauss & Co, Mavi Jeans, Nien Hsing Textile Co. Ltd, Orta Anadolu, Raymond Ltd.,

and True Religion Apparel Inc. among others.

The above figures are just estimated ones and it might vary.

(http://www.denimsandjeans.com/latest-denim-reports/denim-data-figures/world-

denim-market-a-report-on-capacitiesmarket-size-forecasts-etc/) [Accessed 2011,

September 08]

Soumya Mohanty # 8

4.0 RESEARCH

4.1 RESEARCH AIMS AND OBJECTIVES

This research was basically motivated from the role played by the washing over

denims and which makes its worldwide popular. The aim to this research is to:

Examine the various preexisting washes done on denims and the options it

provides towards further innovations towards the production of it.

The objectives of the research are to:

Establish from the literature review the background knowledge of washes of

denims.

Provide an understanding of opinions and attitudes towards washes within the

design process.

Draw conclusions from the research in relation to the impact of new washes

of denims on fashion design skills and competencies.

4.2 RESEARCH METHODS

This research was a kind of collaboration with a denim Unit called Aarvee denims,

which was situated at Ahmedabad city. The research required a lot of prior profound

details about the fabric and its weave to study it further in larger and thorough line.

It was basically a 3 month project which started from August 2011 continued till

October 2011. The table below will depict the phase of work which is being timed.

Soumya Mohanty # 9

Date Scheduled work

12th – 18th

Aug

Basic Research on Denim fabrics.

19th – 25th

Aug

The various treatments done over the fabrics.

25th – 31st

Aug

Acquiring knowledge by talking to various people or visiting various

washing units or denim units on the finishing aspect

1st – 4th Sep Connecting the past and present scenario of denims, how the

development has been done.

5th- 30th Sep Innovation on various Samples

1st – 19th Oct Shortlisting few interesting Samples.

20th – 31st

Oct

Placing designs, and creation of document.

The above dates have been varied according to the various events which have come

across. During this period between the phases, at times the company being closed

due to power failure and the washing unit being closed because of the boiler

maintenance, caused problems in the research project.

5.0 BASIC WASHES

5.1 Stonewash Effect:

In traditional washing process, volcanic rocks or pumice stones are added to the

garments during washing as abrading. Due to ring dyeing and heavy abrasion fading

is more apparent but less uniform.

The degree of color fading depends on the garment to stone ratio, washing time,

Soumya Mohanty # 10

size of stones, material to liquor ratio and load of garments. Normally after desizing,

stone wash process starts with pumice stone addition in rotary drum type garment

washer, which varies from 60-120 mins.

Stone wash effect is one of the oldest but highly demanded washing effects. Stone

wash process gives “used” look or “vintage” on the garments, because of varying

degree of abrasion in the area such as waistband, pocket, seam and body.

There are many limitations and drawbacks associated with stone washing process,

which can be overcome by using new enzyme based washing technology. This

technology also helps to conserve water, time, energy and environment.

5.2 Enzyme Wash

Cellulose enzymes are natural proteins which are used in denim garment

processing to get stone wash look on to the denim garments without using

stones or by reducing the use of pumice stone.

Cellulose attacks primarily on the surface of the cellulose fiber, leaving the

interior of the fiber as it is, by removing the indigo present in the surface

layer of fiber.

Cellulose enzyme is classified into two classes:

Acid Cellulose: It works best in the pH range of 4.5-5.5 and exhibit optimum

activity at 50.

Neutral cellulose: It works best at pH 6 however its activity is not adversely

affected in the range of ph 6-8 and show maximum activity at 55 C.

Advantage of enzyme washing

1. Soft handle and attractive clean appearance is obtained without severe

damage to the surface of yarn.

2. Inexpensive, low-grade fabric quality can be finished to a top quality product

by the removal of hairiness fluff and pills, etc.

3. Simple process handling and minimum effluent problem.

4. Better feel to touch and increased gloss or luster.

Soumya Mohanty # 11

5. Prevents tendency of pilling after relatively short period of wear.

6. Can be applied on cellulose and its blend.

7. Due to mild condition of treatment process is less corrosive.

8. Fancy colour-flenced surface can be obtained without or a partial use of

stone.

9. More reproducible effect can be obtained.

10. It allows more loading of the garment into machines.

11. Environmental friendly treatment.

12. Less damage to seam edges and badges.

13. Wear and tear of equipment is minimum due to absence of stone.

14. Use of softener can be avoided or minimized.

15. Easy handling of floor and severs as messy sludge of stones does not

interfere.

16. Due to absence of stone, labor intensive operation of stone removal is not

required.

17. Homogenous abrasion of the garments.

18. Puckering effect can also be obtained.

19. Problem of pumice powder contamination on garment is not there.

5.3 Denim bleaching

In this process, a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium hypochlorite or

KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition. Discoloration is

usually more apparent depending on the strength of the bleach liquor quantity,

temperature and treatment time.

Soumya Mohanty # 12

Limitations

Process is difficult to control i.e. difficult to reach the same level of bleaching

in repeated runs. When desired level of bleaching reached the time span

available to stop the bleaching is very narrow. Due to harshness of chemical,

it may cause damage to cellulose resulting in severe strength losses and/or

breaks or pinholes at the seam, pocket, etc.

Harmful to human health and causes corrosion to stainless steel.

Required antichlor treatment.

Problem of yellowing is very frequent due to residual chlorine.

Chlorinated organic substances occur as abundant products in bleaching, and

pass into the effluent where they cause severe environmental pollution.

5.4 Enzymatic Bleaching:

Intensive research is underway for the development of sodium hypochlorite

bleaching alternative eg, glucose bleaching, bleaching with sulphinic acid derivatives,

and recently with laccase (enzyme).

Laccase enzyme belongs to the oxidoreductase group. Laccase‟s oxidative effect is

complex, it does not work independently. A mediator is necessary and a chemical

mediator is employed between enzyme and indigo.

Advantages

1. New Laccase based bleaching technique only affects the indigo and natural

raw white of weft yarn is retained, giving the woven fabric a darker shade,

which is not implicitly achieved with hypochlorite bleaching.

2. The product is so specialized on indigo that it does not attack any other dyes.

3. Laccases open up the door to bleach Lycra containing denim without loosing

the strength of the fabric. In case of hypochlorite bleaching Lycra containing

product affects adversely by losing the tear and tensile strength.

4. Finally the process is based on enzyme so no risk of environmental pollution

and harmful effluent discharge.

Limitations

Expensive, compared to traditional process.

Soumya Mohanty # 13

Heavy faded look is difficult to achieve.

Enzymatic anti-back staining agent-protease:

The use of an engineered ox datively stable alkaline protease that can tolerate a

range of operating temperature and pH conditions offers flexible and alternative

processes for back staining clean-up, improved contrast of denim finishes, and

reduced residual cellulase of fabric.

„It is claimed that significant reduction in back staining can be achieved at much

lower temperature than conventional process by using small amount of protease

either at the end of the cellulase washing step or during the rinsing step. By adding

the protease at the end of the cellulase wash step, one rinse step is eliminated

offering savings in time and energy. This process at lower temperature also claims to

achieve a significant reduction of residual cellulose.‟

(http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-washing-

basic-steps-and-guide/) [Accessed 2011, September 17]

6.0 BASIC STEPS TOWARDS WASHING

Below is the brief introduction to common steps done & followed in denim garments

washing in Laundries across the world. Different kind & make of machines being

used across the globe to hit similar results.

Every small step in denim washing makes a big difference because indigo

dye has very poor wet & dry rubbing fastness. All parameters are critical to

maintain for repetitive results. Eg Many laundries across the Globe ignore the

importance of pH M:L:R & R P M of machine.

Some important steps in the process of Denim Washing

Pretreatment ( Desizing, Rinsing, Scouring etc)

Enzyme or Stone wash

Soumya Mohanty # 14

Clean up to adjust the desire effect

Bleaching

Tinting / Dyeing

Softening & Finishing

6.1. PRE TREATEMENT

This is very first & basic step but most important step of washing. Good

Pretreatments avoid streaking, stiffness & color loss. This process removes

impurities, starch & stains during handling of fabric.

This step is also called desizing (Removal of Size applied during denim fabric making

in weft yarn). All the woven fabric contains size on them due to reasons to

strengthen the yarn for weaving. And hence the pretreatment makes the fabric

comparatively soft compared what it is after its make.

6.2. Enzyme & Stone Washing Process Of Denim Garments

Enzyme is kind of protein that is obtained from fermentations method from naturally

existing bacteria & fungi. The structure of Enzyme is a biological polymer and it can

be found in every cell. Generally called as Cellulase & it works on cotton (Cellulosic

fiber) only. Enzyme is living organisms which will attack a specific molecular group.

There are mainly three kind of Cellulase being used for Denim washing, Neutral, Acid

and Bio polishing Enzyme. Enzyme are very sensitive with parameters in washing

cycle i.e, pH , Temperature & time. If any of these parameters are not up to the

mark, result will not be accurate. Enzymes most basic work is to each up the sizes.

The reaction of enzyme can be easily controlled, its biodegradable products, so they

eco-friendly.

Soumya Mohanty # 15

Bio Polishing Cellulase are being used to have protruded fiber removal from denim &

oven fabric. This is also widely known as Anti pilling enzyme.

Any Cellulase used in process must be cleaned/killed after the process completion by

simply disturbing the parameters ie. By raising high temp. or raising pH to alkaline

where no Cellulase withstand.

Neutral enzyme gives better salt & pepper effect with very less back staining & its

generally come sin powder form & also retains better strength of fabric than acidic

Cellulase. Whereas acidic cellulase give faster results but with too heavy back

staining & cuts down the indigo color, also affects the strength of fabrics.

Laccase is bio bleaching agent & alternative for conventional bleaching agents. This

impart greyer cast to blue denim & enhances salt & pepper effect. But due to high

cost & low self-life, laundries do not prefer it.

6.3. CLEAN UP

After finishing Enzyme wash it is must to add cleanup process for better results &

garments appearance & that can be done in various ways & methods. As cleanup is

a must process to be carried out after every chemicals steps done for any garments

which allows next process to happen smoothly. All processes mentioned below kill/

deactivate the active enzymes process which is necessary in order to protect/retain

garment strength.

a.Hydrogen peroxide in alkaline pH clean up enhances the brightness & rich blue

tone of indigo.

b.By using nonionic detergents in medium to high temperature

c.By hot water rinse etc.

6.4. BLEACHING

This in one an important step in washing denim & can be done by various bleaching

agents …..

Soumya Mohanty # 16

a.Calcium hypo chlorite

b.Sodium hypo chlorite

c.Hydrogen peroxide

d.Potassium permanganate

First two chemicals are commonly being used for every medium to vintage denim

but when it comes to super vintage & light shade its advisable to use potassium

permanganate bleach to cut the color faster till half way & then neutralize it & go

with Liquid ( Hypo ) bleach to adjust the desired shade. This process helps to get

Greyer cast & also protects the lycra/spandex, retain elasticity.

Hydrogen Peroxide is rarely used as bleaching agent when very less color loss

required or if fabric is sulphur top. As it takes longer time to give desired effect.

Potassium Permanganate is also being used on 100% sulphur black denim fabric for

bleaching/reducing agent to get unique effects. As its not production friendly till

laundry have very expertise team to handle this program, otherwise it will result in

many shades & cast.

Proper Neutralizations of bleaching process is very essential in order to get rid of

fabric strength, bad smell from garment, yellowing & skin irritation etc…

6.5. Tinting & Dyeing

Tinting is a process where very less amount of tint is involved & mainly direct dye is

being used to do this process. This is being done to change hue/cast/tone of indigo.

As soon as quantity of tint color increases & it cover up indigo, reaches the level of

dyeing.

Tinting being used to give garments a used / vintage & muddy look. This process

takes from 5 minutes to 15 minutes time for better results followed by dye fixing &

cleans up of superficial dye.

Soumya Mohanty # 17

Dyeing is being done on very light shade of Indigo, Ecru/ grey denim & Ready for

dyeing denim.

• There are various Types of Dye. The comparison of these dyes is given in the chart

here below:

1-Direct Dyes

2-Reactive Dyes

3-Pigment Dyes

4-Sulphur Dyes

6.6. SOFTENING PROCESS

Softening process of Denim is very critical. As denim is very heavy in compare with

other fabrics hence its needs softening. During this process there is a big problem -

the discoloration of denim i.e change in shade or loss of whiteness, giving a yellow

tint is commonly known as yellowing. By using normal softener will lead to ozone

problem. Indigo dyed fabric is even more prone to yellowing.

As it‟s a widespread problem & there in no single reason for its cause. Instead a

number of conditions can singly or in combination lead to the problem. Yellowing in

not specific to certain fibers, finishes or washing processes. It is not specific to

chemicals or chemical treatment but certainly some of the factors among these can

lead to the yellowing. As cotton & all organic polymers develop yellowing in time.

Light, acids, impurities, detergents & chemical contribute to yellowing problems.

Temperature of drying & curing can impart yellowing due to scorching of the cotton.

Therefore good control must be used to minimize this type of damage.

„Hence it‟s advisable to use Antiozonate softener which prolong ozone reaction of

Indigo & keep garment in good condition.

MINIMISATION OF YELLOWING RISK:

Soumya Mohanty # 18

It‟s Impossible to eliminate yellowing but it is possible to prolong & reduce the

conditions which causes classical yellowing:

· Ensure bleaching neutralization & rinsing is proper

· Minimize back staining

· Avoid use of chemicals which cause yellowing

· Avoid leaving garment in open air for longer time

· Control drying & curing temperatures

· Using right Antiozonate softener with right pH‟

(http://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-washing-

basic-steps-and-guide/) [Accessed 2011, October 24]

7.0 The E – Factor

Environmental sustainability in apparel production is an important aspect and is

expected to get more and more important in the coming times. There are various

aspects to environmental impact in apparel production particularly in the production

of denim jeans. Though all the stages of denim production from cotton growing to

finishing jeans affect environment, the washing of jeans is an area which does

directly affect the environment due to its impact on water resources, discharge of

chemicals and many other pollutants in the process. Washing managers in many

companies are keen to reduce this pollution and they are keen to make their

processes sustainable. Many actions are being taken by the managers to do the

same whether it is getting better chemicals, using less water in washing and

umpteen others.

But how to measure the environmental impact of the washing?

Can it be quantified?

Soumya Mohanty # 19

Is there any way that processes be compared on a yardstick and compared to

see their comparative environmental impact to enable the washing manager

to make a decision on a process?

The EIM Software (Environmental Impact Measurement) software from

Jeanologia aims to provide this decision making tool to the washing managers. It

provides an understanding the Environmental impact in the following individual

categories:

Water consumption

Energy consumption

Chemical product used

Worker health

Garment finishing processes are complex and the number of combinations in the

laundry processes to have a determine look are infinite. The number of variables

involved in a laundry process are very high and the environment where the

processes are made influence directly in the final scores. With such an adverse

scenario Jeanologia tried to create not the perfect tool but a simple and efficient one

that can give a close approximation to reality.

One of the very interesting interviews which I came across was from an internet site

about Mr. Martelli Europe, being the most reputed washing laundry. It talked about

sustainability and how different brands have stopped various process after which is

being hazardous.

Martelli Europe is one of the most reputed washing laundries around the world and

brings out specialized washes at various times. The company is highly focused on

contributing to new developments which result in environment friendly techniques.

So in his this interviw the Managing Director of Martelli Europe – Mr. Mauro

Angelini was quite emphatic on the contribution of new vintage wash developments

which may help to reduce CO2 emissions and contribute in other ways to make them

more environmentally sustainable compared to traditional washes.

Soumya Mohanty # 20

Sandblasting being banned mostly by all the brands that is it which is covering g up

all the results if the technique is being banned? When discussed with Marteli his

views seem to be different as compared to other, and seem very explanatory.

Sandblasting being a hazardous method in itself, it has been tried to be avoided in

many ways and the same kind of result us being tried to assure through other

methods However, it is simple that every process under high pressure produces

dust, this sooner or later go airborne and is filled by someone. It is not a powder

that protects worker health; on the contrary, there are dusts that cause silicosis and

others that cause asthma and other problems. Even if you simply replace the sand

with vegetable or metallic abrasives, powder in the air remains. Similarly, using type

solutions of carbon dioxide ice, certainly don‟t help the environment and costs that

do not believe customers want to endure.

With the increased cotton prices the various attempts made by the brands to save

on the washing to reduce the costs of the garments. It was as a rule attempt to

reduce costs with suppliers. Some young or inexperienced buyers sometimes tend to

overdo it and it is how to cut the branch where you‟re sitting. The relationship with

suppliers today it is not only “cost-money” it should be strategic in terms of

partnership. The most experienced buyers and sourcing managers, remember that

they (all supply chain) are clothing fashion industry. They cannot copy the

speculative and short-sighted attitude of certain finance, particularly now after

they‟ve seen disasters that brought us the crisis of 2008. Today in clothing from

fabric to the laundry, they see many closures and few openings; hence it is still not

the case to cut costs.

7.1 Ozone Technology

Over the last eight years, Ozone has made a prominent place for itself in the

garment processing industry all over the world. Widely used as a bleaching agent,

Ozone remains a powerful, secret tool within the denim industries that gave denim

garments a unique and distinctive look and feel from other traditional processing.

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Even today, many manufacturers in India still feel that by using Ozone Gas their

denim garments they would simply bleach them to lighter blue only. This is true

since the Indian denim manufacturers and users are used to the brighter color of

Indigo achieved with the help of optical brighteners that sometimes it is difficult for

them to accept the duller colors achieved through Ozone processing.

Though it changes the color of the Indigo dye, Ozone eliminates tinting from the

reverse of the denims as also from the sewing thread, pocket fabric, labels, zippers,

buttons etc. giving the garment a cleaner look. Ozone also destroys all air borne

micro-organisms including bacteria, virus, mold, fungi, spores, etc. It also oxidizes

the volatile organic chemicals, including aromatic chemicals reducing them into lower

molecular organics which are no more aromatic in nature; hence the hand-feel in

garments is enhanced after the treatment. Furthermore, the discharge of the Ozone

purifies the atmosphere by adding freshness and giving clear, pollution free-oxygen

rich air.

Since ozone has the bleaching property, low ozone dosage helps in avoiding

bleaching action, while enabling the washed clothes come out brighter it also

sanitized them at the same time. Ozone's sanitizing property makes it very relevant

to the hospitals as also the hotels. The use of ozone reduces the requirement of

detergents and also the wash can be achieved at lower temperatures. Thus, a

specially designed Ozone system helps in reducing the use of water as well as

energy cost for heating, resulting in large savings. Besides this, the added advantage

is that the waste water from the laundry has much lower detergent contents which

requires very little or no waste water treatment prior to letting it out in to the

sewage system.

In the Ozone processing system, first the Ozone is generated by isolating pure

Oxygen from atmospheric air through sophisticated electrodes and pump that air to

next equipment fitted with another set of electrodes that convert oxygen into ozone

and pumps it for garment processing. To maintain the purity of the ozone

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generated, the temperature is kept below 14C during the conversion for which

chilled water is used. Special chillers are used for this purpose along with ozone

generators.

Tumbler is the third part of this process, where ozone gas is introduced and

removed after processing. The process time is 15 to 20 min. per batch, as the

volume of the tumbler requires 10 to 12 min. to refill and 8 to 10 min. holding time

for the Ozone gas. During this time; tumbling action slowly turns over the garments

for even exposure to the gas circulating in the entire tumbler. Later, with the help of

the exhaust pipe the gas in the tumbler is flushed into the atmosphere or to effluent

treatment system.

7.2 Ozone fading

By using this technique, the garment can be bleached. Bleaching of denim garment

is done in washing machine with ozone dissolved in water. Denim garments can also

be bleached or faded by using ozone gas in closed chamber. The advantages

associated with this process are:

- Colour removal is possible without losing strength.

- This method is very simple and environmentally friendly because after laundering,

ozonized water can easily be deozonized by UV radiation.

The ozone washing is again a great topic in itself to be pondered about. And hence,

from last so many years‟ numbers of research have been going on to great that

much amount of presumptions and possibilities.

8.0 MY DIRECTIONS

After dwelling upon what has been done and how things work, I finally tried few

samples where, I moved out of the production friendly frame tried working as a

designer. At every step though I did get a word from the mentor where he used to

stop me from getting carried away, since when the samples came out of the

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washing unit they seemed very creative and hence provoked me to move a lot

further.

Firstly I was asked to go through the basic study about denims, like the weave and

its USP of the fabric. My mentee directed me towards a debate, every time we meet.

The discussions always lead to some where I learned something new and something

which he found interesting in my research. This in a way also lead me to many

different levels of discussions about denims, which somewhere was not related to

my research work and yes it did enlighten me with the varied amount of knowledge.

My directions are a space which I have occupied in my report to let people know

about how things went on from my side and ho w much I enjoyed in the research.

Watching the various different varieties of samples getting made me very much

enthusiastic to explore further and see what comes out. To be very honest, yes

exploring creations over denims is just like working over the tie and dye of fabrics,

where one never knows what kind of effect will come out. There have been failure a

lot many times, and many a times there have always been that one warning from

my mentor to stop and yet I have follow my will and have failed, but this somewhere

gave me a self-satisfaction and self-assurance. I used to get my answers of my own.

The learning had been from both the sides, from my mentors as well as from my

mistakes also.

There have been a few interesting samples which I created and would like to share

here. Which have either been done through tying or printing or simply laser printing

done on them with the PP spray.

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Pigment Print Tagging

Crushed Effect Cloud Effect

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Tying Laser Print

Laser Print Pigment Print

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9.0 Analysis

My analysis is very naturally based on what I perceived and gained through the

process. From the overall research, I have got a lot of time to analyze things .My

project being taken from and designer point of view, and denim being a mainly a

market selling project, it gave me a platform to compare the streams. Working

under a denim brand whose main aim is to see what sells, regardless of the trend

and design aesthetics helped me move to look even beyond the skyline.

When initially I started my research and started body storming, I realized that there

are many creations which can be done over denims; but due to lack of acceptability

and the parameters like price, time and man power being inefficient, they become

the drawback of the fabric and the product. Ideally I did create a lot of samples

which proved to be good enough as an aesthetically good design, but there were

which proved to be either market unfriendly or might not be production friendly. The

various drawbacks from the above creations are:

The samples not being production friendly.

The acceptance from the market.

Usages of man power and being cost effective.

With the various samples I also re-worked on two old jeans which had been under

rigorous usage, and then undergoing through various types of washes. When I

created such a sample the problems which would be faced in the longer time would

be as follows:-

Durability of the garment after washing.

The reaction of trims and accessories.

The condition of the garment before washing.

The kind of garment look the customer would want.

The achievement of the exact desired look.

The exceeding of the cost of the garment bought and after re-working over it.

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The limitations can always be worked out, but would require much skilled labor, a

good amount of time which would again lead to a lot of expenditure, which would

make production friendly as well as market friendly.

10.0 CONCLUSION

Current literature indicates a set of ideas about the issues that are significant to

today‟s market for denims that provide a useful context for this study. This could be

seen as an increasing emphasis on visibility. This reflects the theme that appears to

be emerging from the study to date, of the look of garments and their sustainability.

Being a staple fabric and being found in every wardrobe, yes it has created

revolution and this research and lead me to believe that its basically the washes the

of the USP of the fabric or the denims to make it worldwide known.

Hence this conclusion might be add as an end to this report, but yes the various

different conclusions which I have drawn needs a lot more time to explore and

conclude things, there are various different questions which still needs to be

answered and still require that much more time drive an proper conclusions. But

right now for the time being, the conclusive limitations which I have faced during the

research are being stated and hence when I start again, will start with again a very

microscopic level with the limitations keeping in mind.

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11.0 BIBLIOGRAPHY

www.denimanic.com

www.denimology.com

www.nyfashiocentrefabric.info

www.thedandyproject.com

www.denimdebutant.cm

www.cottoninc.com

www.oki-ni.com

www.fabriclinks.com

www.olahinc.com

www.girband.com

www.norp.niscais.res.in (IJFTR)

www.denimandjeands.com

www.denimblog.com

www.denimfabrics.com

www.cotton.missouri.edu

www.designbloom.com

www.denimblog.com

www.memanybag.blogspot.com

www.g-star.com

www.jackandjones.com

www.DKNY.com

www.zara.com

www.dsquared2.com

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www.levisstratuss.com

www.wrangler.com

www.pepejeans.com

www.espirit.com

www.spykar.com

www.signature.com

www.denizer.com

www.misssixty.com

www.armanijeans.com

www.gas.com

www.killerjeans.com

www.flyingmachine.com

www.fcuk.com

www.hugoboss.com

www.calvinklien.com