INTRODUCTION TO EMULSIONS

How to Make Body Lotions & Creams

By

Shola Alabi

Shea Radiance

WHAT IS AN EMULSION?

✳An emulsion is the process of mixing two or more liquids that are naturally not mixable.

✳When the emulsion is done correctly, the two or more liquids are not separable.

✳There can be oil in water emulsion- where oil is dispersed in water.

✳There can also be water in oil – where water is dispersed in oil.

THE BASICS PHASES EMULSION

✳Water

✳Oil

✳Emulsifier

✳Humectant

✳Thickener

✳Heat & Agitation

✳Preservatives

WATER PHASE

✳Water is a diluent and a carrier of other ingredients

✳Use only Distilled Water or De-ionized Water. Tap Water or Pure Water is not recommended

✳Pure or Tap water contains dissolved minerals that cause the lotion to go bad

OIL PHASE

Oils and butters allow your formulation to have richness. The type of oil used can affect the feel, spread and viscosity of your lotion.

✳Recommended usage rate of oil can be up to 25%

✳ Select oils based on what is available to you. Example: Shea Butter; Cocoa Butter; Olive oil; Coconut oil; Soy Bean oil; Sweet Almond oil

BUFFERS

Used to adjust pH level of Creams and lotions

✳If emulsion is acidic, use an alkaline solution to bring up pH. Levels of (2-3) can cause skin irritation

✳Ideal pH should be between 5.5 and 7

✳If pH is too high, it can burn skin

✳Certain preservatives may not work in high pH cream or low pH

✳Common buffers are citric acid or Sodium Hydroxide to adjust up or down.

EMULSIFIERS

Emulsifiers allow oil and water to mix together and not separate.

✳Recommended usage rate of an emulsifier can be 3% - 5%

✳The HLB value of the emulsifier should match the HLB requirement of the oil.

✳O/W emulsion: use high HLB emulsifier

✳W/O emulsion: use low HLB emulsifier

✳You can also use a co-emulsifier

LOTION MAKING TOOLS

✳Scale

✳Heat

✳Emulsifier

✳Agitation or Mixer(Rotor/Stator), anchor impeller

✳At least two Stainless Steel Pots

✳Thermometer

✳pH Reader (Litmus paper)

✳Buffers: Acid or Alkaline

OTHER COMPONENTS

✳Buffers: Citric Acid or Sodium Hydroxide solution

✳Chelating Agents (Sodium Phytate, EDTA)

✳Solubulizers (Polysorbate 20,Peg40 Hydrogenated Castor oil)

✳Emulsion Stability-resist change in its properties over time

✳Shelf life Prediction – Thermal & Freeze methods

PRESERVATIVES

✳Preservatives are needed to ensure that your cream does not go bad.

✳Bacteria grows in the presence of water and food.

✳Preservative will make your cream to last more than one week to years and not grow mold or yeast which can cause cancer.

MORE ABOUT PRESERVATIVES

Strongly recommend broad spectrum preservatives especially in this tropical environment. These preservatives work against bacteria, yeast and mold

✳Phenoxyethanol

✳Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate

✳Methylparaben/Propylparaben (note concerns)

✳Optiphen Plus

✳And others

LABELS AND INCI

✳Design your label to be attractive.

✳List your ingredients in order of percentages used (high to low)

✳Only list ingredients by INCI :-

✳The International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients