SHOP Holland SS14

www.omegawatches.com

IN 1969 OMEGA DEFIED ZERO GRAVITY

GOING TO THE MOON.

IN 2013 OMEGA DEFIES

MAGNETIC FIELDS ON EARTH.

This OMEGA Seamaster Aqua Terra resists magnetic fi elds greater than 15,000 gauss, solving a problem that has perplexed watchmakers for centuries.

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Editor’s Letter

6

Emma Cheevers

Welcome to Holland

This SHOP guide will help you discover all

that Holland has to ofer, including the best

luxury department stores, boutiques and

concept stores, as well as recommendations

for restaurants, bars and special places to visit.

As part of Global Blue, a Tax Free

Shopping market leader, SHOP publishes

essential guides to over 40 destinations across

Europe and Asia. The new Global Blue mobile

app is another great way to fnd the very latest

on your chosen destination – there are more

details in our news section on page 29.

For the very latest information, visit our

website, globalblue.com, or email me at

[email protected]. Claiming your tax

savings is even easier with the new Global Blue

Card – signing up is free and you can fnd all

the details on the Global Blue website.

Athens and Thessaloniki

Austria

Barcelona

Belgium

Berlin

Buenos Aires

Cologne

Copenhagen

Cyprus

Чехия

Düsseldorf

Estonia

Frankfurt

French Riviera

دليل ألانيا

德国指南

Руководство Германия

Gothenburg

Hamburg

Hanover

Helsinki Area

Holland

Iceland

Istanbul

Italy

Lake Saimaa

Lebanon

London

Madrid

Milan

Munich

Naples

Oslo

Paris

Portugal

Prague

Riga

Rimini and Riccione

Rome

Singapore

Stockholm

Stuttgart

Switzerland

Vienna

Vilnius

ILLU

ST

RAT

ION

: pA

UL

x j

Oh

NS

ON

/globalblue

/globalblue/globalblue

@环球蓝联-GlobalBlue

@GlobalBlue

/GlobalBlue/GlobalBlueRu

®

®

®

®

Gassan Diamonds HQ | Nwe. Uilenburgerstraat 173 - 175 | 1011 LN Amsterdam | P: +31 (0)20 622 5333

Gassan Dam Square | Rokin 1-5 (Dam) | 1012 KK Amsterdam | P: +31 (0)20 624 5787

Gassan Schiphol | Dep. Lounges 1,2,3,4 & Arrivalhall 3 | Schiphol Airport | P: +31 (0)20 405 9951

Craftsmanship for over 60 years

www.gassan.com

Contributors

8

globalblue.com

ILL

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Th

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Nathalie Lees

Illustrator Nathalie Lees created

the cover for this season’s SHOP

Holland. Nathalie’s illustration

shows a tulip disguised in a man’s

tie, referring to our feature about

Dutch menswear on page 36. She

enjoys conceptualising ideas into

simple, elegant images and her

versatility has allowed her to work

on projects ranging from window

displays to iPad apps. Nathalie

gets her inspiration from flms

and old magazines as well as from

a good night’s sleep.

Read our interview with Nathalie,

and more about our cover

illustrations, at globalblue.com/covers.

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Stephen Doig

Stephen Doig is SHOP’s features

editor. A regular columnist for

the men’s section of the Telegraph,

he is a former Harper’s Bazaar

staf member and has written

about style, culture and travel

for Vogue, GQ and the Financial

Times. His weaknesses include

metallic Lanvin shoes, red wine

and good cheese.

Sally McIlhone

As SHOP’s managing editor, Sally

McIlhone is in touch with leading

brands, creatives and writers

around the world so she can stay

on top of the latest styles and

designs. Sally adores wandering

around the Nine Streets area of

Amsterdam and recommends

reading John Green’s The Fault In

Our Stars while you’re in the city.

Shop Floor

10

Disclaimer: SHOP magazine is published by Global Blue Group. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is strictly prohibited. Whilst every

care is made to ensure all of the information is correct, Global Blue cannot be held responsible for any changes in information that may occur after

publication. Global Blue shall not be liable for any damage, loss, injury or inconvenience arising out of, or in connection with, the contents of the guide.

All rights reserved. ©2014 Global Blue

E DI TOR I A L

Editor-in-chiefEmma Cheevers

PU BL I SH I NG

PublisherJames Morris

Managing editorSally McIlhone

Cover illustratorNathalie Lees

Production editorCaterina Mazzolai

Assistant production editor Ruairidh Pritchard

Features editorStephen Doig

City guide and lifestyle editor Verity Hogan

Fashion and news editorDominique Fenn

Assistant fashion and market editorXimena Daneri

Assistant fashion and news editorsHannah Lewis, Isabella Redmond Styles

Fashion assistantGemma Latham

Editorial internsIndia Block, Sammy Ha

Chief sub-editor Hester Lacey

Copy editors Sue Flook, Claire Gervat, Ann Morphew

Picture editor Dorcas Brown

Assistant picture editors Kirsty Andrews, Sarah Beyts

Picture assistants Grace Bird, Mónica Goya

ArtworkerAdam Dhaliwal

Artworking assistants Harveen Ghattaure, Dionne Hélène, Milkha Lala, Shirley Lau

Online editor Kirsty Welsh

Online commercial editor Sally Ashley-Cound

Online editorial assistant Katie Ramsingh

Online assistantsMarina Nelson, Emily Scrivener

Commercial editor Justine Clifton

Commercial artworkerLaura Soler

Commercial artworking assistantDan O’Brien

Chinese editor Yuan Fang

Associate Chinese editor Junjie Dou

Chinese assistant editorHongying Xu

Chinese fashion editorJiafei Fei

Chinese contributing editorQingya He

Chinese translators Bingjie Ao, Yinzhang Lin,Jun Liu, Shi Yin, Yi Zhang

Chinese internDaniel Huang

Russian editorAnastasia Nemchenok

Associate Russian editor Daria Orlova

Assistant Russian editorKira Savchenko

Russian editorial assistant Linda Blank

Russian translatorsTeena Garnik, Gary Ramazanov

SHOP is published by Global Blue

Group headquartersGlobal Blue SA,Route de Crassier 7, CH-1262 Eysins, Switzerland

Corporate registration number5565726923

[email protected]

Digital manager Eamonn Leacy

Digital production managerFunmi Paul-Taiwo

Product managerLuca Russo

Project managerOmar Haque

International digital marketing executiveNina Kobalia

Distribution project assistantPaul Lecoanet

Advertising and partnership managerRiccardo Canini

Distribution project managerClaudia Suárez

Print Dane Consultancy

GL OBA L BLU E

N E T H E R L A N DS

Regional manager for BeneluxMarja van Reijn

Sales managerJorn Hoogesteijn

Marketing managerKathy van Haaren

Sales and marketing supportMelati Marchelinus, Regina de Neve

Key account managerPeter Belang

Account managersMilo den Doop, Arvind Gangapersadsing, Astrid Maes

Global Blue Holland bv,Leidsevaartweg 99,2106 AS Heemstede,The Netherlands,+31 (0)23 524 1909

Contents

12

p.36

Above: DJ and producer Rich Medina in a recent OntFront campaign

Produc ts

18 Check Out

sHoP selects a standout piece

from Holland this season

20 Our Favourites

Joost doeswijk and Elza

Wandler from Atelier

de l’Armée reveal their

chosen places and products

in Amsterdam

22 Products

Key looks for the season,

from fashion and footwear

to jewellery and accessories

N E Ws

26 Shop Window

one store not to be missed

in Holland

28 News

seasonal updates on shops,

services and new products

32 In Store …

… with Jason denham in his

Amsterdam concept store

34 Street Style

our pick of Holland’s best

dressed for spring/summer

2014

F E At u r E s

36 Cover Story: Men’s Room

dutch menswear gets a stage

all of its own with more

designers fnding innovative

ways to dress the country’s

coolest guys. By sally

McIlhone

42 Dutch Courage

Holland’s accessories designers

have become pioneers of

ground-breaking style,

as stephen doig discovers

E x PE r I E NcE

52 Raising The Bar

From traditional cafés in

the Hague to Amsterdam’s

late-night clubs, Verity Hogan

explores some of the country’s

best venues

60 Perfect Days

Where to go and what to do

in rotterdam and the Hague

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globalblue.com

Destination & buying guiDes

Don’t waste a minute on your travels – use our dedicated destination and product guides. We take you through the most exclusive local shopping areas and give you in-depth buying advice on how to make a great investment in the right luxury piece.

Fashion WeeKs & stReet styLe

Follow us online for the latest from europe’s fashion weeks; we report direct from the shows with street-style galleries, show round-ups and insider shopping guides.

DaiLy shopping neWs

We’ve got the latest information on destination shopping, whether it’s the new season’s collections, store openings or limited-edition pieces.

Win monthLy competitions

We’ve got great giveaways for our readers to win, from the latest accessories and shopping vouchers to luxury hotel stays.

engLish | Р ус ский | 中文

the latest in luxury shopping and travel is updated every day at globalblue.com

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65 maps and guides to

holland’s top shops

and destinations

e sse n t i a L s

90 How To Shop Tax Free

the simple steps to saving

money on your shopping

t R a nsL at ions

92 Русский Перевод97 美文翻译

100 terjemahan bahasa

indonesia

sou v e n i R

106 the essential item to

bring home

www.diamondpoint.nl

Trusted since 1904

Diamond Point is a family

owned jewelry company.

Visit us in the most

prestigious department

store de Bijenkorf in

Amsterdam. Open 7 days

a week. Dam 1, 1012 JS

Amsterdam.

作為家族經營企業，鑽石專家

Diamond Point的歷史可以

追溯到1904年。歡迎參觀我們

位於荷蘭阿姆斯特丹百貨公司

de Bijenkorf的銷售處。我們

的營業時間是每週七天。務

每週 7 天。大壩1 1012阿姆

斯特丹的JS

Семейная ювелирная

компания

« Diamond Point ». Посетите

нас в самом престижном

универмаге Амстердама

« de Bijenkorf » . Работаем

без выходных.Плотина 1,

1012 JS Амстердам.

18 | PRODUCTS

Save up to up 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

PICK ’N’ MIX

Rarely has it been easier to suit

your jewellery to your mood than

with Choices by DL. Debora

Leeser’s ingenious concept for a

jewellery range of interchangeable

pieces developed fve years ago and

it already has a frm fan base. It al-

lows each section of a ring, earring,

necklace or bracelet to be mixed

and matched to the wearer’s ward-

robe or mood. We are particularly

taken with this cocktail ring; avail-

able in yellow, white or rose gold,

each ring is topped with inter-

changeable parts available in an

impressive range of materials.

We’ve gone for white gold, pink

moonstone and diamonds. hl

Choices by DL cocktail rings,

prices on request,

Gassan Diamonds,

Nieuwe Uilenburgerstraat 173-175,

1011 LN Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 622 5333,

choicesbydl.com

* for map go to page 67

Check Out

shop

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AMSTERDAMLeidsestraat, 61

MAASTRICHTStokstraat, 20

ROTTERDAMLijnbaan, 50

20 | PRODUCTS

Save up to 16% by shopping tax free, see page 90

Elza Wandler and Joost Doeswijk formed

Atelier de l’Armée in 2011, founded on their

appreciation of durable materials, timeless

design and handcrafted, functional products.

Many of the label’s bags are made from ethically

sourced leather and the store also sells vintage

clothing. Here, Elza and Joost talk to Ximena

Daneri about their favourite places and products

in Amsterdam

atelierdelarmee.com

Our FAVOurITES:

Atelier de l’Armée

1. ‘For shoes, Elza

likes Acne as well as

Stella McCartney

and Purifed’

Acne Lenna shoes, €450,

Acne,

Oude Spiegelstraat 8,

1016 BM Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 422 6845,

acnestudios.com

2. ‘Our favourite

product from the

spring/summer

collection is our roll-

top backpack with

zip-front pocket’

Atelier de l'Armée

backpack, price on

request,

Hutspot, Van Woustraat 4,

1073 LL Amsterdam,

+31 (0)6 1365 1566,

atelierdelarmee.com

2

1

globalblue.com

SHOP | 21

3. ‘Our signature

scents are Vetyverio

by Diptyque

for Elza…’

Diptyque Vetyverio

fragrance, 100ml, €85,

Skins Cosmetics,

Runstraat 11,

1016 GJ Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 240 0199,

diptyqueparis.fr

4. ‘…and Kyoto

by Comme des

Garçons for Joost’

Comme des Garçons

Kyoto fragrance, 50 ml,

€62, Babassu Amsterdam,

Cornelis Schuytstraat 40,

1071 JK Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 471 5148,

comme-des-garcons.com

5. ‘Joost likes

Red Wing Shoes

and vintage

military boots’

Red Wing Shoes

Postman Oxford

Oro shoes, €269.95,

Red Wing Shoes,

Reestraat 15,

1016 DM Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 626 6002,

redwingamsterdam.com

5

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22 | PRODUCTS


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3. Paul Smith Sunshine fragrance,

100ml, €43, Paul Smith,

PC Hooftstraat 136, 1071 CE Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 670 0641, paulsmith.co.uk

4. Dominio loafers, €295, Dominio,

Runstraat 15A, 1016 GJ Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 419 0546, dominio.nl

1. Marc Cain jacket, €379,

Marc Cain, Bergsedorpstraat 41A,

3054 GA Rotterdam, +31 (0)10 418 2291,

marc-cain.com

2. Cos dress, €79, Cos, Venestraat 17-19,

2511 AR The Hague, +31 (0)70 363 5773,

cosstores.com

1

CANDY CRUSH

Pastels colours

and sweetshop

hues are the story

of the season

2

3

4

24 | PRODUCTS


3. Filippa K trousers, €185, Filippa K,

PC Hooftstraat 129, 1071 BS Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 673 2343, flippa-k.com

4. Hublot watch, €16,700,

Schaap & Citroen, PC Hooftstraat 40,

1071 BZ Amsterdam, +31 (0)20 671 4714,

hublot.com

1. Church’s shoes, €440, Church’s,

PC Hooftstraat 112, 1071 CD Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 684 4060, church-footwear.com

2. Closed shirt, €139, Closed,

Wolvenstraat 17, 1016 EM Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 330 7303, closed.com

SMART CHOICES

Soft colours accented with navy keep formal dressing

fresh and fashionable

1

2

3

SHOP | 25

globalblue.com

7. Hermès ties, €150 each, Hermès,

PC Hooftstraat 97, 1071 BR Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 305 7050, hermes.com

5. Acne jacket, €1,200, Acne,

Oude Spiegelstraat 8, 1016 KJ Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 422 6845, acnestudios.com

6. Rimowa suitcase, €482,

Brabants Lederwarenhuis, Frederik

Hendriklaan 235, 2582 CC The Hague,

+31 (0)70 355 5014, rimowa.de

4

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Shop Window

26 | NEWS


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MASTER AT WORK

Over the last year KARL

LAGERFELD, one of fashion’s

busiest people, has expanded his

portfolio of international stores at

a rate we can hardly keep up with.

Located in a quaint 18th-century

building in the trendy Nine Streets

district, the designer’s Amsterdam

concept store is one of the most ex-

citing recent additions to the city,

bringing KARL LAGERFELD’s

quirky cool and laid-back elegance

to the Netherlands. Ofering a true

KARL LAGERFELD experi-

ence, the store goes beyond fashion

to act as a window to the man him-

self. KARL LAGERFELD’s ob-

session with the digital is visible at

every step, from iPads in the aisles

to photo booth ftting rooms and,

when you’re fnally ready to go,

you’ll be invited to leave a personal

note for Karl. hl

Karl lagerfeld,

Hartenstraat 16,

1016 CB Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 422 0077,

karl.com


28 | NEWS


MODERNIST MOMENT

Max Mara’s latest collection

has a decidedly modernist look

compared with the neutral tones

and understated sophistication for

which it has become known. The

trademark sleek styles remain, but

the use of sheer and shimmery

fabrics, metallics and vivid colour

blocking in electric blue, tangerine

and violet adds an exciting edge. gl

Max Mara,

Hoogstraat 41,

2513 AP The Hague,

+31 (0)70 346 4557,

maxmara.com

STYLISH CHOICE

For a great day out head to

Batavia Stad, the outlet shop-

ping village. It has more than 100

stores ofering discounts of 30% to

70% on national and international

brands, from menswear and wo-

menswear to children’s clothing,

sportswear, interiors and perfume.

It is open seven days a week and

has a number of cafés and restau-

rants. Be sure to check the Stylist

Choice, a trend-led selection of

great brands at attractive prices. df

Batavia Stad Amsterdam

Fashion Outlet,

Bataviaplein 60,

8242 PN Lelystad,

+31 (0)320 292 900,

bataviastad.nl

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SHOP | 29

globalblue.com

SHOP THE WORLD

Using our wealth of insider knowledge,

we have created a smartphone app

to help you to plan your trips. The app

gives information on 45 cities in 22

countries – thousands of stores are listed

and located on maps, with full contact

details and a description of what each

store sells. Our maps guide you right to

the store, step-by-step, from your current

location and can also be downloaded

for offine use. If you’re looking for

something specifc, or a particular brand,

use our search option to locate it – you

can even create your own itinerary. The

app is available in Chinese, English and

Russian, and includes a Tax Refund

Calculator to tell you how much you’ll

save on every purchase. There are also

instructions on how to use Currency

Choice, our service that allows you to

pay in your home currency.

globalblue.com

Download the Global Blue guide

from the App Store or Play Store

CRAFTED PERFECTION

When it comes to fne watchmak-

ing, the Swiss have a reputation for

excellence and rarely is this better

deserved than with Tag Heuer.

The frm has over 150 years’ expe-

rience in making luxurious time-

pieces with excellent craftsman-

ship, which can be found at Schaap

& Citroen in Rotterdam. hl

Schaap & Citroen,

Kruikskade 98,

3012 EH Rotterdam,

+31 (0)70 3657 8001,

tagheuer.com


30 | NEWS


GOOD TO KNOW

Tov Essentials is a brand of

jewellery and leather accessories

designed to instil a positive at-

titude in the wearer. The goods

are designed in Amsterdam and

manufactured in Florence, so they

have the coveted ‘made in Italy’

stamp. With classic styles and a se-

lect colour range, the spring/sum-

mer collection of handbags is flled

with gorgeous pieces. Highlights

include this coral mini-bag, which

FRESH CREATIONS

Young Designers United is an

exciting platform for designers in

Amsterdam. The store is flled with

the collections of up-and-coming

fashion designers, all at afordable

prices, and its mission is to support

those just starting out. The space

is carefully curated to show how

exciting some of these small labels

can be. While the items stocked

are creative and forward looking,

the owners keep wearability in

mind, so although the range is cut-

ting edge it will ft efortlessly with

your wardrobe. hl

Young Designers United,

Keizersgracht 447,

1017 DK Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 626 9191,

ydu.nl


is also available in black, cream and

stylish taupe. hl

Tov Essentials,

Johannes Verhulststraat 107,

1071 MX Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 636 4762,

tovessentials.com

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www.zazarediamonds.com

Location: in front of the Rijksmuseum

Weteringschans 89, Amsterdam

Tel: +31 (0)20 - 626 27 98

[email protected]

The Star of Amsterdam is a newly developed cut with it’s

already legendary 257 facets. The Star of Amsterdam sets

a new standard in diamond polishing. You will be stunned

when you see the glimmering facets.

Visit Zazare Diamonds in front of the Rijksmuseum

for elegant jewelery and top brand watches.

Admire our masterpiece!

32 | NEWS


In Store: Jason Denham

‘I have dreamed of having this exact

corner between Prinsengracht and

Runstraat for a few years. This is a

key part of the Nine Streets district,

an area that suits our brand perfect-

ly as there is a great buzz, with niche

fashion and design stores, galleries

and cafés.

‘Denham refreshes with a new

concept every fve weeks. We

opened the store with a presentation

of our leather jackets, belts, shoes

and bags and now the store has been

fipped to being 100% denim.

‘We also have a cofee bar here

where we encourage our friends and

customers to come and hang out

with the brand. There are custom-

built tables and Wi-Fi, we serve

Italian cofee and all our staf are

barista trained.

‘This is the only fashion store

in Amsterdam that opens at 8am –

there are great hotels in the area and

we like to drink early cofee and talk

fashion with visitors who have just

arrived in town.’

Denham,

Prinsengracht 531,

1016 HR Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 303 2825,

denhamthejeanmaker.com

Dutch brand Denham has a concept store in the heart of Amsterdam. Ximena Daneri talks to the label’s founder Jason Denham about what makes this shop in the Nine Streets area unusual

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Above: Jason Denham at the Prinsengracht Denham store

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Street Style

The Mercedes-

Benz Fashion

Week in

Amsterdam is a

small, but growing

event. Attendees’

experimental

styles refected

the designs on

show, with a focus

on accessorising.

Our pick of the

best dressed

includes visitors

sporting Céline

handbags and

wearing shoes with

graphic prints

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AVO U R

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globalblue.com

SHOP | 35

SHOP | 37

Dutch menswear gets a stage all of its own with more and more designers fnding innovative ways to dress the country’s coolest guys. By Sally McIlhone

Holland’s latest crop of menswear

talent proves that the Netherlands

is ready to take on the likes of Mi-

lan, Paris and London as never

before. Designers are updating

tailoring with innovative touches

such as wooden collars and by us-

ing wetsuit material to create strik-

ing collections which appeal to the

modern shopper. As well as mod-

ernising menswear classics these

designers are pushing menswear

boundaries by, for example, pro-

ducing seasonless capsule collec-

tions, blurring the line between

menswear and sportswear, and

utilising androgynous shapes for

the new season.

Francisco van Benthum

launched his menswear label

in 2003. Noted as a talent on the

rise by the Dutch Fashion Foun-

dation, in 2012 van Benthum re-

ceived the Cultuurfonds Mode

Stipendium, the highest grant

made available to the country’s

designers. His latest collection

Room

men’s

/92 97

Lihat halaman 100 untuk terjemahan artikel ini

38 | FEATURES

Previous page: Jonathan Christopher spring/summer 2014

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features suit trousers with paper

bag waists, coats made from scuba

suit material, 1990s-style bomber

jackets and fashes of intricate pat-

tern. ‘I like to play with the codes

and restrictions of menswear, and

to explore and stretch its borders,’

he says.

In particular this season van

Benthum has played with tradi-

tional tailoring and has re-inter-

preted time-honoured menswear

staples in technical fabrics. He

explains that innovative tailor-

ing is important to him and that

performance sports gear is an in-

spiration: ‘I like to make a hybrid

between the worlds of tailoring and

innovative technical details.’

Van Benthum’s Amsterdam

store opened in 2012 in the trendy

Nine Streets area – a melting pot

of creativity which displays the

ingenuity of Dutch fashion de-

signers. He feels that the absence

of a staunch fashion heritage in the

Netherlands has made its mens-

wear designers more directional

SHOP | 39

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Above (from lef): Francisco van Benthum spring/summer 2014 collection; Francisco van Benthum store in the Nine Streets area; Francisco van Benthum spring/summer 2014 collection

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and unique. ‘We as Dutch people

do not have any history or tradition

in clothing, at least not the way that

the Italians have or the French,’

van Benthum explains. ‘This gives

us the freedom to have a more open

approach in our vision on design.’

Van Benthum’s protégé Jona-

than Christopher agrees. His lat-

est collection, Vanitas, has a par-

ticularly open approach to design,

in that it blurs the traditional con-

cepts of masculine and feminine

clothing. Men’s tailored coats have

Men’s tailored

coats have faux

fur arms, and

kimono silhouettes

are given a

masculine look

40 | FEATURES

Above (from lef): Jonathan christopher spring/summer 2014; DJ/producer rich Medina in a campaign for OntFront; OntFront’s Haarlemmerdijk store

faux fur arms, and kimono silhou-

ettes are given a masculine look.

‘Dutch menswear challenges the

current status quo through the ft,

the use of fabric, the materials and

technology hidden in their gar-

ments,’ Christopher explains.

Christopher is another designer

who is fascinated with bending the

menswear fashion ‘rules’ while still

creating garments that will work

in real world wardrobes. ‘I stretch

these boundaries, but still see them

as male garments and I try to keep

them commercially appealing

as well,’ he explains. For example,

the shirts in his Vanitas collection

feature collars made from wood

that is laser cut and printed. ‘While

this is a great detail I needed

to think it through because of wear

and tear, so I made a double collar

that is detachable so the shirt can

be washed,’ he says.

With kimono-cardigans for the

more experimental dresser and

shirts with removable wooden col-

lars for the man who prefers just

a fash of the avant-garde, Chris-

topher and other Dutch menswear

designers are recognising that men

are increasingly looking to diver-

sify their wardrobes. ‘Men are get-

ting tired of the basics that they

are fed with,’ Christopher admits.

‘They want to be able to get some-

thing other than the typical suit,

sweater, and shirt with a new print.

They want their closet to be as di-

verse as a woman’s wardrobe.’

However, these dramatic sarto-

rial statements are not for every-

one. For those who prefer hip up-

dates of classic menswear staples,

OntFront’s Haarlemmerdijk store,

to the north west of Amsterdam’s

city centre, ofers retro tailoring

from the brand, as well as from

other handpicked menswear labels

from other countries. Its design-

ers Tomas Overtoom and Liza

Koifman prefer to launch indi-

vidual designs rather than full

collections, often collaborating

with other international labels:

a recent partnership with Cali-

fornian footwear brand Generic

Surplus resulted in a handmade

suede and tweed lace-up shoe.

‘We love being a local boutique

with international collaborations,’

the designers explain.

OntFront is also known for us-

ing personalities such as DJ and

producer Rich Medina, and dance

SHOP | 41

PH

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: Ma

rc

Ha

er

s

PH

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: Ma

rn

ix P

Os

TM

a

group Dutch Soul Supply in the

photoshoots on its website.

‘We have clients from all over

the world, due to the international

reach of blogs about our photo-

shoots and online videos,’ they

explain. Yet, despite OntFront’s

international reach, its design-

ers are incredibly humble about

Dutch menswear’s current infu-

ence. ‘There are some great Dutch

menswear designers. On the world

stage they don’t compete with the

best yet. But the potential is there.’

If Dutch menswear continues

to progress at this trajectory, it cer-

tainly won’t be long before this po-

tential is fulflled

franciscovanbenthum.com,

jonathanchristopher.nl,

onfront.com

/94 98 Above: Royal Republiq leather accessories

42 | F E AT U R E S

Holland’s accessories designers have become pioneers of ground-breaking style, as Stephen Doig discovers

DUTCH COURAGE


SHOP | 43

It’s no secret that the Dutch have

it nailed when it comes to cutting-

edge fashion. Take, for example,

streetwear brands such as G-Star,

or innovative designers branching

out beyond the Netherlands and

making waves in fashion capitals:

think of Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf

or Michael van der Ham, a rising

star in London. And as anyone

who has explored the thriving

Nine Streets area of Amsterdam

will attest, stylish wardrobes are

very well supplied by Holland’s

fashion scene. But what’s interest-

ing now is just how creative the

country’s accessories landscape is

too, with a host of designers rein-

venting jewellery, bags and foot-

wear to grand efect.

44 | FEATURES

Above (both): Iris van Herpen couture autumn/winter 2013/14

PH

OTO

s: ©

GO

ru

nw

ay.c

Om

Van Herpen’s

clothes are

showstopping

If a fashion label were looking

for the ultimate proof that its de-

signers are cutting edge, it’s fair

to say that outftting Lady Gaga

would be the best accolade. That

challenge has been met famboy-

antly by Dutch fashion maverick

Iris van Herpen. She has been cre-

ating visually arresting womens-

wear since she started her own label

in 2007, having previously worked

with Alexander McQueen and

then been invited to show as part of

Paris’s haute couture schedule with

the visionary Daphne Guinness,

photographer Nick Knight and in-

novative Dutch architect-designer

Rem D Koolhaas.

Van Herpen’s clothes are show-

stopping: some dresses are made

with three-dimensional printed

materials while others look as if

they have been fashioned from

bones. Her shoes are just as ex-

perimental: they are drizzled with

what appear to be alien tentacles,

have exaggerated curving heels or

feature intricate lattice work; her

Fang shoes have jagged teeth act-

ing as soles. The efect is always

bold and mesmerising.

46 | FEATURES

Above (from top): designer Elise van Joolen and the brand’s inverted recycled shoe design

PH

OTO

: Aim

éE Z

iTO

LEm

A

Perhaps a touch more wear-

able is the label of Elisa van Jool-

en, another Dutch designer who

has turned her creative hand to

footwear. The Amsterdam-based

newcomer graduated in 2012

from Parsons New School for

Design in New York and takes a

left-feld approach to shoe design

and ethical production, recycling

materials from companies such

as Nike, Converse and Clarks, of-

ten sourcing from leftover sample

stock, and adapting what she gar-

ners into striking, street-inspired

fashion. Her working method

usually focuses on inverting the

shoes so that the inside is fipped

out, and any branding is inge-

niously reversed.

Sometimes, it’s a focus on

craft and simplicity that puts

HUGO BOSS, SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

MULBERRY AND MANY MORE

48 | FEATURES

Above (from top): Royal Republiq leather accessories and backpack

There’s a stellar

line-up of men’s

accessories too

Holland’s leading accessories la-

bels above the rest. This is the

ethos behind Royal Republiq, a

leather brand founded in Denmark

in 2006 and now based in Amster-

dam, which creates pared-back

pieces. It began life as a concept

label for men before branching into

women’s accessories.

Natural leathers and dyes are

used for its tote bags, clutches and

sturdy boots. There’s a stellar line-

up of men’s accessories too, from

bold, bright rucksacks to solid hol-

dalls. Thanks to the leather craft-

ing these pieces look better as they

age, the brand having opted for

love-worn appeal over trend-led

seasonal change.

Amsterdam also acts as a base

for a jewellery designer who simi-

larly overturns traditional acces-

sories to create subversive, witty

and elegant pieces. Sandra Turina

uses materials such as wood, plas-

tic and metal foil to design her

striking necklaces and brooches.

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Above (from top): Sandra Turina jewellery; Amsterdam’s Tassenmuseum

This isn’t the conventionally pretty

stereotype of jewellery, and Tu-

rina’s work is the more fresh and

quirky for this approach.

If this wealth of accessories in-

store wasn’t enough, Amsterdam

also boasts its own handbag mu-

seum, the Tassenmuseum, where

the private bag collection of society

fgure Hendrikje Ivo is on display

alongside collections that the mu-

seum has developed. Visitors can

explore lavish French clutches

from the 18th century to riotous

Gianni Versace couture bags, icon-

ic Hermès Kelly bags and stunning

Dior saddlebags. After an inspir-

ing trip here Amsterdam’s shops

are waiting to be explored

irisvanherpen.com,

elisavanjoolen.com,

royalrepubliq.com,

turinajewellery.com,

tassenmuseum.nl

Intricately cut wooden diamond

shapes on pendants play with no-

tions of fne jewellery, while even

the most humble of objects acts as

subject matter. Note, for example,

her use of origami and of acorns.

The last remaining Delftware manufacturer from the

17th century. Take a journey through the world of Delft Blue

and enjoy the unique shopping experience in our showroom

with complete authentic and modern collection.

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T H E E X P E R I E N C E

globalblue.com

52 | EXPER IENCE

The Netherlands boasts a di-

verse nightlife scene. Visitors can

join locals enjoying the late-night

clubs of Amsterdam, Rotterdam’s

lively harbourside cafes and The

Hague’s vibrant theatre and dance

culture. Amsterdam is the city

with arguably the most varied af-

ter-dark entertainment and ofers

a venue to suit every taste, from

traditional brown cafés to chic

cocktail bars.

Jenever is the national spirit. A

type of Dutch gin, it is typically

served as a chilled shot, although

it is sometimes diluted with a fa-

voured mixer. Dutch liqueurs have

also received international ac-

claim: curaçao, parfait amour and

triple sec have all become cocktail

staples. A small selection of Dutch

wines, produced in relatively mod-

est quantities by the Apostelhoeve

and Slavante vineyards near Maas-

tricht, competes for attention with

locally produced beers – Heineken

and Amstel are the most popular

but there are also smaller brewer-

ies producing highly desirable spe-

cialist beers and ales.

Raising the baRFrom the harbourside bars of Rotterdam

and traditional cafés in The Hague

to Amsterdam’s late-night clubs, the

Netherlands ofers a variety of nightlife

options. Verity Hogan explores some of the

country’s best venues

SHOP | 53

T A S T E

A haven for wine connoisseurs in

the heart of The Hague, Taste of-

fers more than 200 wines, sourced

from the world’s fnest wine-pro-

ducing regions. At least 50 wines

are available by the glass and the

selection is updated regularly to

ensure there is always something

new to try. The décor refects the

high quality of its wines with so-

phisticated styling, bronze and

brown leather seating and swathes

of sumptuous fabric. The light

bites available are ideal accompa-

niments to the drinks and include

veal meatballs with trufe gravy,

and mushrooms marinated in tar-

ragon and garlic. If you’d prefer

something a little more substan-

tial, opt for the regularly changing

and exquisitely presented three-

course menu.

Taste, Tournooiveld 1,

2511 CX The Hague,

+31 (0)70 360 5395,

tastethewinebar.eu


54 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

D O O R 7 4

One of Amsterdam’s best-kept se-

crets, Door 74 is a classic speakeasy

with a hidden entrance, an art deco

tin ceiling, antique barware and a

refned atmosphere. The bar’s ad-

dress is a closely guarded secret

until you make a reservation; you

can only book on the day you wish

to visit and only by phone. Once

invited inside, the bar’s patrons

can explore a menu of rare vintage

Champagnes and intriguing cock-

tails: Rose Adagio is a typical ex-

ample with its mix of Irish honey

whisky, hibiscus syrup, egg white,

lemon juice and Champagne.

Door 74,

Amsterdam,

+31 (0)6 3404 5122,

door-74.com

L E V E L

Refreshingly relaxed and exud-

ing artistic spirit, Rotterdam’s

Level refects the nightlife cul-

tures of New York and Berlin in its

stripped-back space. The cocktail

selection could rival either city and

in the unlikely event that there is

nothing to suit on the menu, the

expert bartenders are more than

happy to tailor a cocktail to your

taste. The bistro-style food menu

is in keeping with the bar’s laid-

back atmosphere. Choose a steak,

served with a stack of fries, or try

the cheese plate which is best en-

joyed with a large glass of red wine.

Level, Pannekoekstraat 76A,

3011 LK Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 280 0788,

levelrotterdam.nl

56 | EXPER IENCE

globalblue.com

T W E N T Y T H I R D B A R

Set on the 23rd foor of Hotel

Okura, this chic cocktail bar boasts

one of Amsterdam’s most exten-

sive Champagne lists as well as

panoramic views across the city

centre. There are 17 varieties of

Champagne, many available by the

glass, while the cocktail selection

is similarly copious and includes

V E S P E R B A R

Located in Amsterdam’s vibrant

Jordaan district, boutique bar Ves-

per is one of the city’s most char-

acterful drinking dens. A wide

selection of beers and wines is of-

fered alongside an inventive cock-

tail list whose options range from

the bar’s signature Vesper Martini

all the classics. The bar’s décor is

suitably sleek with a contemporary,

understated design while gourmet

bar snacks come from the hotel’s

adjoining Michelin-starred Ciel

Bleu restaurant; the selection rang-

es from pata negra ham to oysters.

Twenty Third Bar,

Ferdinand Bolstraat 333,

1072 LH Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 678 7111,

okura.nl

to the Local Old Fashioned and

Beer Bonanza, a mix of jenever,

Rémy Martin cognac, stout beer

and homemade pimento syrup.

Amateur mixologists can join one

of the bar’s cocktail workshops to

discover all the tricks of the trade.

Vesper Bar, Vinkenstraat 57,

1013 JM Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 846 4458,

vesperbar.nl

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60 | EXPER IENCE


10am: Damage

Playground

Those with a rebellious

streak are sure to feel at home

at Damage Playground. The

minimalist store stocks a

selection of creative fashion

items, accessories, books,

music and works of art, and

favours labels that aren’t

afraid to break style rules.

A dynamic city with an ever-changing skyline and

a fearless approach to reinvention, Rotterdam is an

ideal day-trip destination. This famous port town

ofers a wealth of shops, cultural attractions, festivals,

restaurants and parks. SHOP spends a day browsing

Rotterdam’s most unusual concept stores and enjoying

the views during dinner on SS Rotterdam

A Perfect Day In Rotterdam

1pm: Depot Rotterdam

Featuring established and

emerging designers, Depot

Rotterdam’s collection of

homeware is sure to inspire.

The interior design studio

has been based in the city

centre since 1999 and its

range includes everything

from large furniture to small,

decorative accessories.

4pm: Groos

Supporting the creativity of

Rotterdam’s residents, Groos

only stocks items by designers

based in the city. This poli-

cy has created a diverse and

eclectic product range which

includes pieces from the felds

of fashion, design, art, music

and literature. Look out for

works by local luminaries Barry

Marré, Lianne Siebring, Nicole

Martens and Jonas Vorwerk. PH

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globalblue.com

SHOP | 61

DIRECTORY

Damage Playground,

Hillelaan 29,

3072 JD Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 751 1587,

damageclothing.com

Depot Rotterdam,

Pannekoekstraat 66A,

3011 LI Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 414 4448,

depotrotterdam.nl

Groos,

Schiekade 203,

3013 BR Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 414 5816,

groosrotterdam.nl

Lido Restaurant,

3E Katendrechtsehoofd 25,

3072 AM Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 297 3090,

ssrotterdam.nl

Blender,

Schiedamsevest 91,

3012 BG Rotterdam,

+31 (0)10 404 8070,

blenderrotterdam.nl

9pm: Blender

End your day with a cock-

tail at one of the city’s fnest

bars, Blender. The venue

combines an extensive cock-

tail menu with a sleek, mod-

ern interior while the over-

25s door policy ensures a

refned atmosphere. Stay late

to see the space transformed

into a nightclub.

6pm: Lido Restaurant

Climb aboard SS Rotter-

dam, now permanently

moored in the harbour, and

dine at the ship’s gourmet

restaurant, Lido, which

has a varied menu and out-

standing city views. Soak

in the sights as the sun sets

through the picture win-

dows or venture out onto

the largest outdoor terrace

in Rotterdam.

PH

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62 | EXPER IENCE

12pm: Lola Bikes

& Cofee

Ofering the unusual combi-

nation of a bicycle shop and

an espresso bar, Lola Bikes

& Cofee is one of the city’s

most intriguing venues. En-

joy a cup of the café’s own

cofee blend, which com-

prises Ugandan, Ethiopian

and Brazilian beans, while

pondering the purchase of a

bicycle by a number of pres-

tigious international brands.


A city of contrasts, The Hague combines the allure

of an international metropolis with the beauty of a

seaside resort town. Home to the Dutch government,

the royal family and the International Criminal Court

of Justice, the city also ofers a wealth of cultural

attractions including many museums, theatres and

festivals. SHOP spends a day exploring The Hague’s

most unusual boutiques and sampling its multi-

cultural cuisine

A Perfect Day In The Hague

10am: Emma Joe

Loves Life

The Emma Joe Loves Life

boutique is designed to

stimulate the senses with an

eclectic selection of bags,

jewellery and perfumes.

The store’s diverse collec-

tion caters to those with an

individual sense of style and

includes an array of interna-

tional labels. Expect to fnd

items by Ina Kent, Moo and

Les Néréides.

PH

OT

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WO

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eR

s/B

RIC

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eD

IA.N

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SHOP | 63

DIRECTORY

Emma Joe Loves Life,

Dagelijkse Groenmarkt 30,

2513 AL The Hague,

+31 (0)70 360 9911,

emmajoe.nl

Lola Bikes & Cofee,

Noordeinde 91,

2514 GD The Hague,

+31 (0)61 471 5854,

lolabikesandcofee.nl

Kaaswinkel Kalkman,

Frederik Hendriklaan 222,

2582 BL The Hague,

+31 (0)70 355 1880,

kalkmankaas.nl

The Hague Historical

Museum,

Korte Vijverberg 7,

2513 AB The Hague,

+31 (0)70 364 6940,

haagshistorischmuseum.nl

Kiraku,

Toussaintkade 31,

2513 CK The Hague,

+31 (0)70 345 4288,

kiraku.nl

7pm: Kiraku

End your day by enjoying a

meal at Kiraku. The menu

at this sleek eatery consists

of Japanese classics, ranging

from sushi, sashimi and maki

to larger dishes centred on

teriyaki and tempura. Don’t

miss out on dessert; a selec-

tion of ice creams is available,

favoured with green tea, gin-

ger and black sesame seeds.

4pm: The Hague

Historical Museum

Set in one of the city’s old-

est buildings, The Hague

Historical Museum covers

the story of the city, its gov-

ernment and its inhabitants.

Temporary exhibitions are

held regularly; this season,

look out for displays high-

lighting the history of the

House of Orange and the

work of political satirists.

2pm: Kaaswinkel

Kalkman

The Netherlands is re-

nowned for its cheese and

at Kaaswinkel Kalkman this

reputation is upheld in style.

The store stocks a range of

Dutch and international

cheeses, wines and olives.

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*Subject to local conditions.

GUIDE | 65

ILL

US

TR

AT

ION

: LY

ND

ON

HAY

ES

Guide

Navigating an unfamiliar country is never easy. Global

Blue ofers you the most comprehensive shopping

maps, helping you fnd your way around Holland

with useful hints and insider information about what

to see, do and buy. For more detailed guides, check

out globalblue.com/holland or pick up one of our

bespoke shopping maps from your concierge.

globalblue.com

66 | GUIDE

Amsterdam

LEIDS

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ROYAL PALACE AMSTERDAM

NEW CHURCHAMSTERDAM

ANNE FRANKHOUSE

NATIONAL MONUMENT

AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM

AMSTERDAM THEATRE

PARADISO

VONDELPARK

THE RIJKSMUSEUM

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

THE STEDELIJK MUSEUMTHE NETHERLANDS

FILM MUSEUM

HEINEKENEXPERIENCE

MUSEUM

CONCERT HALL

FLOWERMARKET

COSTERDIAMONDFACTORY

HOUSE OF BOLS

SCHAAP &CITROEN

MADAME TUSSAUDS

ZAZARE DIAMONDS

Suzy Wong

Supperclub

Jimmy Woo

Melk Weg

Litle Buddha

Nomads

Bo Cing

Place Of Interest

Tourist Information

Restaurant

Bar

P.70

P.76

P.74

P.72

P.78

P.82

P.82

P.84

P.76

SHOP | 67

KATTENBURGERPLEIN

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BEURS VAN BERLAGEAMSTERDAM

GASSAN DIAMONDS FACTORY

THE REMBRANDT HOUSE MUSEUM

JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM

HERMITAGE AMSTERDAM

THEATRE CARRÉ

PASSENGER TERMINAL AMSTERDAM

MUZIEK GEBOUW AAN 'T IJ

CITY HALL & OPERA

NEMO

SCHEEPSVAARTMUSEUM

TROPENMUSEUM

HORTUS BOTANICUS

ARTIS

TOURS & TICKETS

CENTRALUNDERGROUND STATION

AMSTERDAMCENTRAL STATION

Sea Palace

Club Air

Skylounge

Train Station Underground Station

P.70

P.18

Featured In This IssueSHOP Recommendation

68 | GUIDE

globalblue.com

BOFB

Short for Best of Both, BofB

sells modern jewellery and more

classic pieces. It is the collabora-

tion of high-end classic jeweller

John Boot and goldsmith and

modern jewellery designer Ber-

tie Hamers, who together pro-

duce silver and gold bracelets,

rings, necklaces and earrings

with a distinctive look. Be sure

also to admire the colourful de-

sign watches and the traditional

MeisterSinger timepieces.

BofB,

Rokin 116M,

1012 LB Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 625 3078, bofb.nl

for map go to page 70

MENDO

With its stylish interior and well-

edited selection of titles, Mendo

is far more than your average

bookstore. The range includes

fashion, photography, architec-

ture, travel, food and design,

and visitors will fnd enthusias-

tic staf on hand to ofer advice.

Concrete Architectural Associ-

ates designed the store’s distinc-

tive look - the walls composed of

black books are a key feature.

Mendo,

Berenstraat 11,

1016 GG Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 612 1216, mendo.nl

for map go to page 78 PH

OT

O: e

wO

uT

Hu

ibe

rs

Purmerend

Haarlem

Zaandam

Schiphol

Amsterdam

Zaanse Schans

FREE ENTRANCE • FREE DEMONSTRATION • FREE MUSEUM

Wooden Shoes, how are they made?

Wooden shoes have been worn in Holland for more than a 1000

years and not only are they still being worn today, but over a million

pairs are still made and sold each year. A unique collection of clogs

is on display in our Clog Museum, giving additional insight into the

historical tradition of this fascinating footwear. Visit our Workshop

for a demonstration, try some on, take photo’s and browse around.

What a great way to experience historic Holland!

Wooden Shoe Workshop ’De Zaanse Schans’ www.clogs.nl • [email protected]

Find out at the Wooden Shoe Workshop

Discover Holland, visit windmill village the Zaanse Schans

Transport from AmsterdamBy train: From Amsterdam Central Station take the train to Uitgeest

as far as Koog-Zaandijk Station and follow the signs to the Zaanse

Schans. It will take approximately 10 minutes to walk from the station

to the Zaanse Schans.

By car: From Amsterdam ring road A10 in the direction of Zaanstad.

Exit A8 direction Zaandam and then A7, direction Purmerend. Take

the f rst exit and follow the signs to the Zaanse Schans.

By bus: There is a bus service (bus 391) from Amsterdam (located in

front of Amsterdam Central Station) direct to the Zaanse Schans.

70 | GUIDE

Global Blue Retailer Non-Global Blue Retailer

Damrak, Dam & Rokin

SIN

GE

L

DAM

PALEISSTR A AT

DAMSTRAAT

S

ING

EL

SINT NICOLAASSTRAATR

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RO

KIN

AMSTERDAM EXPERIENCE ●SUPERMARKT ●

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MEDIEVAL TORTURE MUSEUM

De Bijenkor f

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MADAME TUSSAUDS

THE AMSTERDAM DUNGEON

Maison De Bonneterie

ALLARD PIERSON

MUSEUM

Stock Fresh Coffee & Sandwiches

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Tourist Information

Shopping Centre/Mall Department Store Place Of Interest

Café

P.68

SHOP Recommendation

www.magnaplaza.nl

magna plaza amsterdam

72 | GUIDE


Heiligeweg

HEILIGEW

EG

SINGEL

KALVERSTRAAT

SID

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FO

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50

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AN

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● K

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● S

AB

ON

290 SQUARE METERS

Owner Ido de Voos stocks 290

Square Meters with items that

he loves. The eclectic range in-

cludes shoes, bags, clothes and

handmade jewellery. The brands

featured are at the avant-garde

end of the spectrum, including

APC, Freitag, Won Hundred

and Surface to Air, while the

store’s location in a subterranean

bank vault adds to the distinc-

tive atmosphere. The space also

hosts regular art exhibitions.

290 Square Meters,

Houtkopersdwarsstraat 3,

1011 NK Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 419 2525,

290sqm.com

74 | GUIDE


Kalverstraat, Spui & Sint Luciensteeg

SPUI

SPUI

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SINT LUCIEN STEEG

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SINGEL

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AT

WATERSTONES ●

ALYSSA, 1 S ●

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MISS SIXTY/ ENERGIE ●

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●SCAMM

● V&D

NEW ENGLISH

● BOOKSTORE

SIDESTEP ●Outmeyer Coffee Corner

Café Luna

● C

HRISTIN

E LEDUC

● K

ODAK

● LAUNDRY INDUSTRY

SOUVENIRS ●CLARKS ●

FRONT RUNNER ●

HI AMSTERDAM ●PEPE JEANS ●

SABON ●

LUSH ●FOOTLOCKER ●

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● STORE FOR BRANDS● KIDS FOOT LOCKER

CHEESE AND MORE ● BY HENRI WILLIG

● STEPS DRESSES● TAFT SHOES

● SWAROVSKI● MORGAN

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● H&M

FR

ED

DE

LA

BR

ET

ON

IER

E ●

LUC

IE'S

●

PA

LB

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● T

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QU

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ITY

BV

Café

Kalverstraat 203, Amsterdam

Buitenplein 101, Amstelveen

and more

A world of

FOODJEWELLERY

FASHION

76 | GUIDE


Kalverstraat North

NE

S

NIE

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ATPALEISSTRAAT

DAM

DAM

R

OK

IN

● TRÉSOR

● FRONT RUNNER

● BJÖRN BORG

● POP CULT

● FOREVER 21

● PULL & BEAR

● PIECES

● MANFIELD

● VILA

● URBAN OUTFITTERS

● MANGO

● JAMIN

● BLOKKER

● PRO 020

● MCDONALDS

● SIDESTEP FOOTWEAR

● CITY DIAMONDS

● SUPERSTAR

RALPH LAUREN ● DENIM & SUPPLY

● SIX

● BIJOU BRIGITTE

THE STING ●

DESIGUAL ●

DE TUINEN ●

STEVE MADDEN ●

PIMKIE ●

COOL CAT ●

SACHA ●

RIVER ISLAND ●

CHASIN’ ●

BAZAR ●

SABON ●

DIDI ●

SCORE ●

CLAIRE’S ●

GEOX ●

DIDI ●

STEPS ●

ZARA ●

Peek & Cloppenburg

Department Store

ALLARD PIERSON MUSEUM

Its challenging presentation of

ancient civilisations has made

the Allard Pierson Museum one

of Amsterdam’s most intriguing

attractions. Housed in the former

headquarters of De Nederland-

sche Bank, it has been part of the

University of Amsterdam since

1934. Displays aim to show the

efect of the ancient world on con-

temporary culture and the col-

lection ranges from pottery and

sculpture to jewellery and coins.

Allard Pierson Museum,

Oude Turfmarkt 127,

1012 GC Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 525 2556,

allardpiersonmuseum.nl

for map go to page 66

78 | GUIDE

The Nine Streets/De Negen Straatjes

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Bussia

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BarRestaurant


P.26

P.106

Featured In This Issue

P.68

SHOP Recommendation

HARTENSTRAAT 16 AMSTERDAM KARL.COM

80 | GUIDE


Van Baerlestraat

● SUITSUPPLY

VAN EEGHENLA AN

Z ANDPAD

VOSSIUSSTR A ATVOSSIUSSTR A AT

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WILLEMSPARKWEG PAULUS POTTERSTR A AT

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JAN LUIJKENSTR A AT J

VAN EEGHENSTR A AT

VA

ND

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PIETER CORNELISZ HOOFTSTR A AT

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RIVIERA MAISON ●

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● ZARA HOME ● FRANS MOLENAAR

Vondelpark

Museumplein

● SUITSUPPLY

Brasserie Keyzer

Small Talk Coffee Corner

Bagels & BeansConser vatorium Hotel

THE STEDELIJK MUSEUM

SELECTED STORES IN

CONSERVATORIUM

HOTEL:

BONEBAKKER

CULTI

HARTMAN EN HARTMAN

LA CASA DEL HABANO

SKINS COSMETICS

Café

Restaurant Place Of Interest

Free entrance museumsFree canal cruiseFree public transport Amsterdamand more

iamsterdam.com/citycard

GET

OUT OF

TOWN BUS

PASS

+€10

24 hours €47

48 hours €57

72 hours €67

82 | GUIDE


PC Hooftstraat

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PROFUOMO ●

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GIMMICKS ●AGENT

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CLAUDIA STRÄTER ●CARTIER ●

PAUL SMITH ●AZZURRO DUE ●

HUGO BOSS ●BLUE BLOOD ●

AZZURRO ●

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● SOUVENIRS33.COM

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● CHOPARD

● LA PERLA

● MONTBLANC

● SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

● PRADA

● LOUIS VUITTON

● LONGCHAMP

● KAREN MILLEN

● BULGARI

● OGER ● WOLFORD● PHILIPP PLEIN

● RALPH LAUREN● OGER DONNA● CAROLINE BISS● HERMÈS● BRUNELLO CUCINELLI

● TOMMY HILFIGER

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Vondelpark

COSTER DIAMONDS ●

SCHAAP & CITROEN ●

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VAN GOGH MUSEUM

Café PC

RIJKSMUSEUM

Café

Place Of Interest

PRESENTS

STARRING

NICOLE KIDMAN

www.omegawatches.com

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KEREKSTRAA

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HERENGRA

CHT

LEIDSESTRAAT

PRINSENGRACHT

KEISERSGR

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● ACE & SPYER

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● HARTMAN EN HARTMAN

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● SAM FRIDAY

● THE BODY SHOP

● HUGO BOSS

● INVITO

● ADIDAS

● SUPERTRASH

● G-STAR WOMEN

● KAREN MILLEN

● SISSY-BOY

● PALLADIUM

● ACE TRENDS

● DR. ADAMS

● HUNKEMULLER

● ONITSUKA TIGER

● SACHA

● MAG BAG

● CHASIN’

● PAUL WARMER

● BRANDY LOVES MELVILLE

● AAKO

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● TIMBERLAND

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● BOTTICELLI LIMITED

● NEW ZEALAND AUCKLAND

● PYLONES

● ICI PARIS XL

● SOUVENIRSHOP DE AMSTERDAMMER

● IKKS WOMEN

● RAAK

ECCO ●

CALIDA ●

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INVOTIS ●

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JULIETTE POUR ROMEO ●

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WE FASHION ●

ABERCROMBIE & FITCH ●

BY FABRIO ●

BOOTS ●

MANFIELD ●

HENRI WILLIG CHEESE & MORE ●

DE TUINEN ●

HARTMAN CIGARS ●

RITUALS ●

REPLAY ●

ACCESSORIZE ●

NOON ●

CORA KEMPERMAN ●

DA ●

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TOURS & TICKETS ●

GSUS INDUSTRIES ●

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CYNTHIA ●

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● YOUNG

DESIGNERS UNITED

Leidsestraat


P.30

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The Manhatan Hotel

Grand Hotel Central

Happy Sushi

CINEMA PATHÉ

SCHAAP& CITROEN

Place Of Interest

Restaurant

Tourist Information

Hotel

Rotterdam

P.29

SHOP | 87

globalblue.com

HOGE

NIEUW

STRA

AT

AMALIASTRAAT

KONINGINNEGRACHT

HOOIKADE

WILLEMSTRAAT

NIEUWESCHOOLSTRAAT

OUDEMOLSTRAAT

KAZERNESTRAAT

SCHELPKADE

CANTALOUPENBURG

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LANGEVOORHOUT

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DENNEWEG

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PRINSESTRAAT

BUITENHOF

MAURITSKADE

MAURITSKADE

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PARKSTRAAT

BUITENHO

F

HOFWEG

T

ORENST

RAAT

NASSAULAAN

HOFKWARTIER

ROYAL PALACE

ART BOULEVARD

PASSAGE

Koetjes & Kalfes

Oker

Taste

South Of Houston

Plein 1gPaleistuin

Hofvijver

The Hague

P.53

88 | GUIDE

Designer Outlet Roermond

globalblue.com

Designer Outlet Roermond,

Stadsweide 2,

6041 TD Roermond,

+31 (0)475 351777,

designer-outlet-roermond.com

Opening times

Monday-Sunday: 10am-8pm

SHOP | 89

PERFECT DAY How To

gET THERE

By car

From Maastricht, take the

A73 to exit 19 for Roermond.

Follow the signs to Roermond

and then follow the signs to

‘Designer outlet’.

From Eindhoven, take the

Dutch A2 to exit 40 for Ro-

ermond. Follow the signs to

Roermond (N280) and then

follow the signs to ‘Design-

er outlet’

By train

Designer outlet Roermond

is just 10 minutes’ walk from

Roermond Central Station.

when you leave the station,

cross Stationsplein and fol-

low the signs to Designer

outlet Roermond. For train

times and ticket prices, please

visit ns.nl

10am

Begin the day by embracing

nautical styling at Dutch ca-

sual clothing label Gaastra.

12pm

Take time out to pick up

a technologically advanced

and on-trend digital watch

from Seiko.

3pm

Join the Swedish style revolu-

tion at Filippa K where sim-

ple lines and a calm colour

scheme dominate.

7pm

Explore East Asian cuisine

at Asia Cocos where Thai,

Chinese and Vietnamese

foods all feature on the menu.

5pm

True Religion jeans refect

the quintessential Americana

look with high-quality denim

cotton and a rebellious edge.

90

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Refund Ofces

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport

Airside

1. Terminal 3Departure Hall 3 - next to customs and close to passport controlOpen: 7am - 8.30pm

Landside

2. Terminal 2Departure Hall 2 – before check-in, ofce 12Open: 9am - 5pm (closed on Sundays)

3. Terminal 3Entrance B next to customs, Open: 7am - 8.30pm

Amsterdam Schiphol Airport

Gates F

Gates E

Gates B-C

Lounge 3

Lounge 2

Departures 3

Departures 2

Departures 1

Lounge 1

Gates G

Gate G20

22

30

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14

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2

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Stairs

i Information

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Translations

92

Горизонт голландской мужской моды приобрел ярко выраженные черты, по мере того как все больше местных дизайнеров демонстрируют свои инновационные подходы к мужской одежде, – рассказывает Салли МакИлхоун

36: Men’s Room

Мужской номер

Русский Переводдеревянных воротников и все чаще используют элементы водолазных костюмов, чтобы хоть как-то привлечь внимание искушенных покупателей. Помимо модернизации бессмертной мужской классики, в новом сезоне дизайнеры продолжают развивать направление за счет выпуска капсульных коллекций, независящих от трендов, стирания грани между спортивной и мужской одеждой, а также обращения к теме андрогинности.

Франциско ван Бентум запустил свой бренд мужской одежды в 2003 году. Замеченный голландской ассоциацией моды Dutch Fashion Foundation, ван Бентум получил в 2012 году один из самых престижных в стране грантов – Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendium. Его последняя коллекция включает строгие брюки с вставками из переработанного картона, пальто из того же материала, что шьются гидрокостюмы и куртки-бомберы в стиле 1990-х, и все это дополнено обилием интригующих узоров. «Мне нравится экспериментировать с кодексами и стилями мужской одежды, а также расширять ее границы», – говорит он.

В частности, в этом сезоне ван Бентум проводил эксперименты с традиционным

Недавние плоды творчества голландских талантов в области моды доказывают, что Нидерланды готовы потягаться с такими городами, как Милан, Париж и Лондон. Дизайнеры придают костюмам инновационные штрихи в виде

костюмом и переосмыслял давно устоявшиеся образцы, дополняя их специальными тканями. Для него крайне важными являются инновации в формальной одежде, при этом свое вдохновение он находит в спортивном снаряжении: «Мне нравится создавать нечто среднее между официальным костюмом и профессиональной спортивной одеждой».

В 2012 году ван Бентум открыл свой магазин в стильном амстердамском районе Nine Streets – настоящей кузнице творчества, собравших воедино голландских модельеров. По мнению дизайнера, отсутствие характерных модных традиций позволило нидерландским модельерам сформировать независимый и уникальный в своем роде стиль. «Голландцы не могут похвастаться богатой историей или традициями в области костюма, по крайней мере, такими, какие существуют в Италии или Франции, – поясняет ван Бентум, – Это дает нам большую свободу в нашем подходе к дизайну одежды.

Протеже ван Бентума Джонатан Кристофер с ним соглашается. Его последняя коллекция «Vanitas» отличается довольно независимым подходом к дизайну и практически размывает границы между мужским и женским образом. Мужские пальто у него украшает искусственный мех на рукавах, а кимоно приобрели

характерные черты сильного пола. «Голландская мужская одежда бросает вызов традициям за счет уникального кроя, оригинальных тканей и современных технологий», – говорит Кристофер.

Джонатан Кристофер еще один дизайнер, который не желает мириться с правилами мужских коллекций, но, тем не менее, продолжает создавать одежду, идеально подходящую для современного гардероба. «Я пытаюсь убрать границы в одежде, оставляя при этом характерные мужские черты, так чтобы она выглядела коммерчески привлекательной абсолютно для всех», – поясняет он. Например, рубашки из его коллекции «Vanitas» имеют деревянные воротники с рисунками, нанесенными на них при помощи лазера. «Это прекрасная деталь, однако, мне еще предстоит над ней поработать и придать ей устойчивость к износу. Так, недавно я создал двойной воротник, который можно отстегнуть, чтобы рубашку можно было стирать», – говорит он.

Подобно многим голландским дизайнерам Джонатан Кристофер, создавший кардиганы в стиле кимоно для любителей поэкспериментировать и рубашки с отстегивающимися воротниками для поклонников авангарда, признает, что мужчины все чаще

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задумываются о разнообразии своего гардероба. «Мужчины слегка устали от стандартного набора серых вещей. Им хочется иметь нечто большее, чем стандартный костюм, свитер и рубашку, пусть и с новым рисунком. Они хотят иметь такой же разнообразный гардероб, как и у женщин», – считает дизайнер.

Однако далеко не каждый сможет согласиться с подобными утверждениями. Для тех, кто предпочитает ограничить обновление своего классического гардероба скромными хипстерскими дополнениями, магазин Haarlemmerdijk марки OntFront, расположенный к северо-западу от центра Амстердама, предлагает собственные фирменные костюмы в ретро стиле, а также тщательно выбранные коллекции многих мировых брендов. Дизайнеры OntFront – Томас Овертум и Лиза Койфман предпочитают выпускать индивидуальные модели, нежели коллекции целиком. При этом они зачастую сотрудничают с брендами из других стран. Так, недавнее сотрудничество с калифорнийской обувной маркой Generic Surplus привело к появлению ботинок из замши и твида на шнуровке. «Нам нравится быть местным бутиком, предлагающим продукты международных коллабораций», – поясняет дизайнер.

42: Dutch Courage

Голландская смелость

Стивен Дойг рассказывает о дизайнерах аксессуаров из Голландии, открывающих миру собственный авангардный стиль

В съемках для рекламной кампании OntFront участвовали такие знаменитости, как DJ Rich Medina и танцевальный коллектив Dutch Soul Supply. «Фотоснимки и видео из рекламной кампании, размещенной на нашем сайте, привлекли внимание многочисленных блоггеров из разных стран, благодаря чему у нас появилось множество поклонников по всему миру», – рассказывают дизайнеры. И, несмотря на такой международный успех, основатели OntFront считают, что говорить о достижениях голландской моды пока преждевременно. «В Нидерландах есть немало хороших дизайнеров мужской одежды. Однако соревноваться с тяжеловесами мировой индустрии моды им еще рано, несмотря на большой потенциал».

Если голландская мода продолжит развиваться в том же темпе, то очевидно, что раскрытие этого потенциала не заставит себя долго ждать.franciscovanbenthum.com, jonathanchristopher.nl, onfront.com

95

Ремом Колхасом. А с 2007 года ван Херпен создает авангардные, приковывающие взгляд наряды для женщин под собственным брендом.

И ее произведения производят впечатление! Одни платья собираются из объемных материалов с принтами. Другие – выглядят так, будто сделаны из костей. Не менее экстравагантно выглядят и обувь с шипами: такое впечатление, будто ботинки оскалились острыми клыками вместо подошвы. Щупальца пришельцев, невообразимым образом изогнутые каблуки, оголенный каркас – неподражаемое оформление любой модели неизменно создает гипнотический эффект.

На этом фоне обувь амстердамского дизайнера Элизы ван Джулен кажется куда более удобной для прогулок. Окончив в 2012 году Новую школу дизайна Парсонс в Нью-Йорке (Parsons New School for Design), она отдала предпочтение весьма необычному подходу в этой сфере. Исповедуя принципы этического производства, она перерабатывает неиспользованные материалы таких компаний, как Nike, Converse и Clarks. Все собранное (как правило, остатки пробных тиражей) она преображает в яркие вещи стрит-стайла, вывернув предварительно наизнанку. Таким образом, логотипы глобальных брендов

Ни для кого не секрет, что голландцы прекрасно разбираются в актуальной моде. Это прекрасно иллюстрируют бренды стрит-стайла, как G-Star и другие. Более того, авангардные дизайнеры успешно выступают и за пределами Нидерландов: вспомним дуэт Viktor & Rolf или восходящую звезду Майкла ван дер Хама, работающего в Лондоне. Каждый, кто хотя бы раз прогуляется по амстердамскому кварталу Девяти улиц, утвердится в мысли, что голландская мода достойна самых стильных гардеробов. Но наибольший интерес представляет сфера аксессуаров, которая сейчас активно развивается в этой стране. Целому поколению дизайнеров удается переосмыслять традиционные украшения, сумки и обувь в самом необычном ключе.

Настоящим признанием и неоспоримым подтверждением актуальности стиля того или иного дизайнера лучше всего может послужить, пожалуй, внимание Lady Gaga. Этот вызов с достоинством приняла Айрис ван Херпен, на которую модное сообщество возлагает большие надежды. Она работала с Александром Маккуином и участвовала в показах парижской высокой моды вместе с великолепной Дафной Гиннесс, фотографом Ником Найтом и датским архитектором-дизайнером

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оказывают внутри и незаметны снаружи.

Подобная любовь к остроумию и простоте способна превращать голландские бренды аксессуаров в лидеров модной гонки. По крайней мере, компания Royal Republiq руководствуется именно этим, создавая лаконичные и стильные аксессуары из кожи. Основатель Николя Кьяер изначально создал концептуальный лейбл для мужчин, а затем под этой же маркой появилась и женская кожгалантерея. Большие сумки, клатчи и идеальная для амстердамских улиц крепкая обувь – все производится исключительно из натуральной кожи с применением естественных красителей. Мужской ассортимент также предполагает привлекающие внимание предметы, в частности, яркие рюкзаки и объемные сумки-холдаллы. Благодаря отменной выделке материалов, эти вещи очень красиво стареют: Royal Republiq ценит обаяние подобранных с любовью аксессуаров больше сезонных трендов.

Сандра Турина, еще одна обитательница Амстердама, подобным образом переосмысляет традиции, но на этот раз в ювелирной сфере, и создает неоднозначные, остроумные и элегантные вещи. Дизайнер отдает предпочтение дереву, пластику и металлической фольге в

работе над яркими ожерельями и брошками. Деревянные подвески в форме бриллиантов играют с представлениями об изысканных ювелирных украшениях. В то же время, в творческом ключе переосмысляются даже самые простые предметы: обратите внимание на то, как Турина использует фигурки оригами или желуди. Это совсем не похоже на ювелирную эстетику, которую принято считать эталонной: стиль этого дизайнера выглядит более свежим и остроумным по своему подходу.

Завершить знакомство с голландскими аксессуарами можно в амстердамском Музей сумок Tassenmuseum. Его экспозиция объединяет обширную частную коллекцию Хендрикье Иво и сменяющиеся самостоятельные проекты. В одном месте специально собраны роскошные французские клатчи 18 века и бунтарские сумки haute couture Джанни Версаче, культовые модели Kelly от Hermès и впечатляющие переметные сумки Dior. После вдохновляющей экскурсии в этот музей вам непременно захочется внимательнее осмотреться в амстердамских магазинах.irisvanherpen.com, elisavanjoolen.com, royalrepubliq.com, turinajewellery.com, tassenmuseum.nl

97

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World, Shop Tax Free

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Контакты:

[email protected]+421 232 111 111Потратьте минимум €50 и сэкономьте до 16% на стоимости покупок. Пожалуйста, примите к сведению, что конечная сумма возврата составит сумму налога (VAT) минус административная комиссия. В некоторых

36: Men's Room

男士领域

美文翻译

пунктах возврата взымается дополнительная фиксированная плата за немедленный возврат наличными.

荷兰男装凭自身之力跃上时尚舞台，号

召越来越多的设计师踏上创新之路，

装扮该国最酷的男士们。Sally McIl-

hone报道

近年来荷兰男装设计人才涌现，证明

该国正史无前例地向米兰、巴黎和伦

敦靠拢。设计师以创意翻新传统剪

裁，譬如以木质衣领和潜水服材料，创

造出令当代消费者为之驻足的震撼作

品。这些设计师不仅以摩登手法改良

经典男装，还继续努力突破男装边界，

或是发布无季节性胶囊系列，或是模

糊正装与运动服间的分界，亦或是在

新一季推出中性化的廓型设计。

Franc i sco van Bent hum在

2003年推出了自己的男装品牌。荷

兰时装基金会注意到这位新晋人才

的天赋，在2012年授予van Ben-

t hum该国颁发给设计师的最高奖

金，Cultuurfonds Mode Stipendi-um Cultuurfonds。他的最新系列包

括褶皱腰部的松裆西装长裤，以潜水

服材料制成的大衣，1990年代风格的

短夹克，与复杂的光泽感印花。“我喜

欢挑战男装现有的标准与制约，探索

其边界延伸的可能性。”他说。

尤其在本季van Benthum大胆玩转传统剪裁，以科技面料重新解读久

经时间考验的男装经典基本款。他解

释，创新剪裁对自己很重要，表演性

体育服装是他的灵感来源之一：“我喜

欢将传统剪裁与创新科技细节混合

一体。”

globalblue.com

98

42: Dutch Courage

勇于突破的荷兰人

2 0 1 2年开业的V a n B e n -

t hum阿姆斯特丹店，地处时尚的

Nine Streets地区——一座展示荷兰

设计师巧思的创意大熔炉。他认为正

因为荷兰没有强盛的时尚传统，荷兰

男装设计才变得更具指向性和独特。“

我们荷兰人没有设计或制造服装的

历史或传统，至少没有像意大利人和

法国人那样的，”van Benthum解释

道。“这也赋予我们更大的自由度，对

设计理念也持有更加开放的态度。”

Van Benthum的得意门生Jona-

than Christopher也认同这点。他的

最新系列，Vanitas，展现出一种对于

设计无比开放的态度，传统观念中阳

刚与阴柔的界限被打破。他为男士高

级定制大衣装上人造皮毛袖管，同时

将廓型变得更为女性化。“荷兰男装在

剪裁、材质选择、服装背后的材料与

科技上，都在不断挑战现状。” Chris-

topher进一步阐明。

Jonathan Christopher是另一位

着迷于弯曲男性时尚‘规则’，但同时

又竭力制造真实生活中可穿服饰的设

计师。“我挑战界限，但仍将作品视为

男性专属，我试图让自己的作品同样

具有商业吸引力。”他表示。例如，他

Vanitas系列中的衬衣，使用激光切割

印染的木料制作衣领。“虽然这是一个

很棒的细节，但我反复思考其是否耐

磨损，最后选择了一个可拆卸的双领

设计，让这件衬衣可以水洗，”设计师

说道。

从为更具冒险精神着装者设计的

和服款毛衣，到为只喜衣着中带有些

许前卫的人们打造的可拆卸木领衬

衣，Jonathan Christopher与其他荷

兰男装设计师们都认识到，男性衣橱

正变得愈发个性化。“男性们已经厌

倦了长期以来被灌输的正统着装观

念，”Christopher承认。“他们渴望除

传统西服、毛衣与印花衬衣之外的单

品，他们希望自己的衣橱如同女性一

般多样化。”

然而，戏剧话的服装并非适合每个

人。对于偏好改良款经典男装基本款

的人们，不妨一探OntFront位于阿姆

斯特丹城中西北部Haarlemmerdijk

的店铺，这里提供品牌旗下剪裁复古

的产品系列，以及来自其他国家的精

选男装品牌。设计师Tomas Over-

toom与Liza Koifman相比完整系

列，更喜欢推出设计单品，他们经常与

其他国际品牌合作：最近一次是与加

州鞋类品牌Generic Surplus的合作

结晶是手工制作的麂皮与斜纹软呢系

带鞋。“我们想要坚持专注国际合作的

本地精品店铺的定位。”

OntFront同样因在网站上摆放

DJ Rich Medina与跳舞团体Dutch

Sou l Supply等人的照片而名声鹊

起。“出于摄影主题博客与在线视频的

国际影响力，我们吸引了来自世界各

地的顾客。”他们解释道。此外，即便

OntFront已然影响力遍布全球，品牌

设计者对于荷兰男装当前的影响力仍

保持令人惊讶的谦逊。“的确是有一些

伟大的荷兰男装设计师。在世界舞台

上他们还不能与最强的对手匹敌。但

机遇是存在的。”

如果荷兰男装长期保持目前的轨

迹前进，那我们可以确信，机遇化作

现实的日子不会太远。

benthum.com,


onfront.com

荷兰的配饰设计师们已然成为突破性

风格的先锋缔造者，Stephen Doig

报道

荷兰对于前卫潮流的突出成就，早已

是公开的秘密。无论是街头时尚品牌

G-Star，还是那些早已跨出荷兰、在

各大时尚之都掀起热潮的创意天才：

99

有些时候，又恰是专注手工与简约

设计，让荷兰的杰出配饰品牌脱颖而

出。Royal Republiq就秉承着这样

的理念，这个皮具品牌从男装概念系

列起家，之后进军女装配饰领域。品

牌的肩背包、手包与扎实靴款（最适

宜走在阿姆斯特丹运河边鹅卵石密布

的街道上）都运用天然皮革和染料制

作。品牌还有为男性设计的延伸系列，

提供大胆、鲜艳的背包，以及牢固坚

实的旅行包。纯手工打造的皮革，让

这些产品随着岁月流逝而变得更为迷

人，品牌也专注于为人们奉上爱用、耐

用的产品，而非随波逐流、跟着每季流

行而改变。

阿姆斯特丹还聚集着一批同样将

传统配饰打造成颠覆、智慧且优雅的

作品的珠宝设计师。Sandra Turina

使用木材、塑料和金属箔，演绎让人

赞叹的项链和胸针作品。她在项链吊

坠上镶嵌巧妙雕琢的钻石型木料，来

挑战传统的高级珠宝理念，在她的手

中最不起眼的素材都能用来制作珠

宝。值得留意的还有她对折纸与橡果

造型的运用。这些都不是我们刻板印

象中的美丽珠宝，Turina运用了更为

新颖与独特的手法。

从荷兰设计双子星Viktor & Rolf，到

在伦敦冉冉升起的新星Michael van

der Ham。任何探索过阿姆斯特丹

Nine Streets地区的人们都会同意，

荷兰时装设计完全有实力为人们打

造完美的时尚衣橱。如今更令人刮目

相看的是，该国的配饰设计也顺势崛

起，一批设计师们正在重塑珠宝、手

袋与鞋履，并将其推向极致。

若要知道一个品牌的设计师是否

立于潮流的最前端，看其作品是否出

现在Lady Gaga的造型中无疑是一

种公平的判断标准。标新立异的荷

兰设计师Iris van Herpen张扬地做

到了这点。自2007年创立自己的品

牌开始，她就致力于创造充满视觉

冲击力的女装。之前她曾为Alexan-

der McQueen工作，并被邀请与时

尚传奇Daphne Guinness、摄影师

Nick Knight与荷兰创意建筑与设计

师Rem D Koolhaas一起，共同参与

巴黎高级定制展。她的每件设计都让

人咋舌：有使用三维打印制成的服装；

有看上去像是用骨头造出的作品。她

的鞋履设计同样充满实验性：有些长

着原始的獠牙（像是以参差利齿作鞋

底的the fang shoe），有些像是被外

星生物的触须所包裹着，还有不少作

品有着夸张、弯曲、抑或网格般的鞋

跟设计。这些作品所呈现的视觉效果

总是如此大胆迷人。

相比之下，另一位投身创意鞋履设

计的荷兰人，Elisa van Joolen的作

品或许更为实穿。这位2012年刚从纽

约帕森设计学院毕业的阿姆斯特丹

新人，采用独辟蹊径的手法与道德理

念设计鞋履，她循环使用从耐克、匡

威与Clarks品牌那里回收的材料，并

将这些囤积的素材（通常是剩余的样

鞋）进行改造，打造出引人注目的街头

风流行单品。她的创意手法主要是将

鞋子内外反转，让鞋的内侧暴露在外，

于是任何品牌信息标示也被同样颠倒

过来。

globalblue.com

100

Busana pria Belanda mendapat

panggungnya sendiri dengan kian

banyak perancang menemukan

cara inovatif mendandani pemu-

da-pemuda terkeren negeri ini.

Oleh Sally McIlhone

Angkatan terbaru bakat busana

pria Belanda membuktikan bahwa

negara ini kini lebih siap bersaing

dengan raksasa mode seperti Mi-

lan, Paris, dan London. Para per-

ancang memutakhirkan seni jahit

dengan sentuhan inovatif seperti

kerah kayu dan menggunakan ba-

han pakaian selam untuk mencip-

takan koleksi mencolok yang me-

mincut pembelanja modern. Selain

memodernisasi busana pria klasik,

para perancang ini memperlebar

batas-batas busana pria dengan,

misalnya, menghasilkan koleksi

kapsul segala musim, mengabur-

kan garis batas antara busana pria

dan busana olahraga, dan meman-

faatkan bentuk-bentuk androgini

untuk musim baru.

Francisco van Benthum me-

luncurkan label busana prianya di

Terjemahan Bahasa Indonesia

当您在全球顶级购物区中的27万多

家商店消费时，环球蓝联（Globa l

B l ue）购物退税服务（Ta x Fr e e

Shopping）为您节约购物开销。

每年有两千六百多万名游客通过环球

蓝联（Global Blue）获得购物退税，

您怎能错过？您要做的只是寻找蓝星

标志或者问询商家是否提供环球蓝联

（Global Blue）服务，然后遵循我们

简单的退税过程：

1. 消费购物

无论您在哪里消费，请索要环球蓝联

退税表格（Global Blue Tax Free

Form），并记得保存小票。

2. 申请退税

当您准备回家时，您需要先去出发城

市的海关柜台请他们在您的退税表格

上盖章，然后再到我们的客服柜台领

取您的退税款。



畅购全球，尊享退税

如果上述店铺贩售的配饰还不

够丰富，阿姆斯特丹还拥有引以为

傲的手袋博物馆、Tassenmuseum

博物馆、那里陈列着社会名流Hen-

drikje Ivo的私人手袋收藏，以及博物

馆自身收集的馆藏。参观者们可以在

那里一览从18世纪的奢华法国手包，

缤纷的Gianni Versace女式定制手

袋，标志性的Hermès Kelly包到令人

驻足的Dior马鞍包等展品。在此地汲

取灵感之后，再去尽情探索阿姆斯特

丹的琳琅店铺吧。

irisvanherpen.com,

elisavanjoolen.com,

royalrepubliq.com,


tassenmuseum.nl

36: Men's Room

Kamar Ganti Pria

联系方式：

[email protected]

+421 232 111 111

最低消费€50并且节约高达购买价格

16%的税。请注意：最终退款将包含

增值税总额，但是要扣除管理手续

费。若选择即时现金退税，部分退税

点将以退税表格为单位收取一定数额

的手续费。

101

tahun 2003. Tercatat sebagai bakat

yang naik daun oleh Dutch Fash-

ion Foundation, di tahun 2012 van

Benthum menerima Cultuurfonds

Mode Stipendium, hibah terbesar

yang disediakan bagi perancang

negara ini. Koleksi terbarunya me-

nonjolkan celana panjang setelan

(suit) dengan pinggang kantong

kertas, mantel yang dibuat dari

bahan baju skuba, jaket bomber

ala 1990-an, dan kilas-kilas pola

yang rumit. ‘Saya suka menerabas

aturan dan larangan busana pria,

serta menjelajahi dan merentang-

kan batas-batasnya,’ ujarnya.

Khususnya di musim ini, van

Benthum mengolah seni jahit

tradisional dan menafsirkan ulang

unsur-unsur pokok busana pria

klasik dengan bahan serat teknis.

Ia menjelaskan bahwa seni ja-

hit inovatif penting baginya dan

bahwa busana olahraga kompetisi

adalah sebuah inspirasi: ‘Saya suka

memadukan dunia seni jahit den-

gan rincian teknis yang inovatif.’

Toko van Benthum di Am-

sterdam dibuka pada tahun 2012

di area Nine Streets yang trendi–

sebuah kuali lebur (melting pot)

kreativitas yang memamerkan

kecerdikan para perancang mode

Belanda. Dia merasa bahwa keti-

dakhadiran warisan busana yang

gigih di Belanda telah menjadikan

perancang-perancang busana pri-

anya lebih mengarahkan tren dan

unik. ‘Kami orang Belanda tidak

memiliki sejarah atau tradisi apa

pun dalam berpakaian, sedikitnya

tidak dengan cara yang dianut

orang-orang Italia atau Prancis,’

urai van Benthum. ‘Hal ini mem-

beri kami kebebasan memakai

pendekatan yang lebih terbuka

mengenai visi tentang desain.’

Jonathan Christoper, anak didik

van Benthum, mengiyakan. Kolek-

si terbarunya, Vanitas, memiliki

pendekatan amat terbuka terhadap

desain, lewat pengaburan konsep

tradisional tentang maskulin dan

feminin. Jas adijahit (tailored) pria

diberi lengan bulu imitasi, semen-

tara siluet kimono diberi tampilan

maskulin. ‘Busana pria Belanda

menantang status quo saat ini le-

wat potongan, penggunaan serat,

bahan, dan teknologi yang tersem-

bunyi di garmen mereka,’ Christo-

pher menjelaskan.

Jonathan Christopher adalah

perancang lain yang terpesona

dengan langgam mematahkan

‘aturan’ busana pria sambil tetap

menciptakan pakaian yang akan

pantas dikenakan di lemari baju

dunia nyata. ‘Saya menguak batas-

batas ini, namun tetap melihat-

nya sebagai pakaian laki-laki, dan

saya juga mencoba menjaganya

tetap menarik secara komersial,’

urainya. Misalnya, kemeja-kemeja

di koleksi Vanitas miliknya men-

gusung kerah dari kayu yang di-

potong dan dicetak dengan laser.

‘Walau ini sentuhan yang hebat,

saya harus memikirkannya dengan

menyeluruh karena faktor keusan-

gan dan keausan, jadi, saya buat

kerah ganda yang bisa dilepas-

pasang agar kemeja bisa dicuci,’

ujarnya.

Dengan kimono-kardigan un-

tuk pebusana yang lebih berani

bereksperimen dan kemeja ber-

kerah kayu lepas-pasang untuk

globalblue.com

102

laki-laki yang lebih suka sedikit

kilasan kecanggihan, Jonathan

Christopher dan para perancang

busana pria Belanda lainnya meli-

hat bahwa pria masa kini semakin

berusaha memperkaya isi lemari

pakaian mereka. ‘Laki-laki sudah

bosan dengan model dasar yang

disodorkan,’ aku Christopher.

‘Mereka ingin bisa mendapatkan

sesuatu selain setelan, sweater,

dan kemeja biasa yang diberi corak

baru. Mereka ingin lemari baju

yang semeriah lemari perempuan.’

Akan tetapi, ungkapan seni ja-

hit dramatis ini tidak untuk semua

orang. Bagi yang lebih suka model

panggul baru dari unsur pokok

busana pria klasik, toko OntFront

di Haarlemmerdijk, di barat laut

pusat kota Amsterdam, menawar-

kan jahitan retro dari merek ini,

serta label-label busana pria pili-

han dari negara-negara lain. Para

perancangnya, Tomas Overtoom

dan Liza Koifman, lebih suka me-

luncurkan desain satuan alih-alih

koleksi lengkap, sering berkolab-

orasi dengan label-label internasi-

onal lain: kemitraan baru-baru ini

dengan Generic Surplus, sebuah

merek alas kaki California, meng-

hasilkan sepatu bertali buatan

tangan dari suede dan wol tweed.

‘Kami suka menjadi butik lokal

dengan kolaborasi internasional,’

ujar mereka.

OntFront juga dikenal karena

menggunakan fgur-fgur sep-

erti DJ Rich Medina dan grup

tari Dutch Soul Supply dalam

pengambilan foto di situs webnya.

‘Kami memiliki klien dari seluruh

dunia, karena jangkauan interna-

Para perancang aksesori Belanda

telah menjadi perintis terobosan

dalam gaya, sebagaimana yang

ditemukan Stephen Doig

Bukan rahasia bahwa Belanda

telah menapakkan jejak jika me-

nyangkut busana deretan depan.

Lihat misalnya, merek busana ja-

lan (streetwear) seperti G-Star,

atau para perancang inovatif yang

merambah keluar Negeri Oranye

dan membangkitkan gelombang di

sejumlah ibu kota mode: ingat duo

Belanda Viktor & Rolf atau Mi-

chael van der Ham, bintang yang

naik daun di London. Dan seperti

akan dibenarkan siapa saja yang

sudah menyusuri kawasan tumbuh

pesat Nine Streets di Amsterdam,

lemari baju bergaya disesaki oleh

sional blog tentang pengambilan

foto dan video daring kami,’ jelas

mereka. Namun, walaupun jang-

kauan OntFront sudah internasi-

onal, para perancangnya tetap san-

gat merendah tentang pengaruh

busana pria Belanda saat ini. ‘Ada

beberapa perancang busana pria

Belanda yang hebat. Di panggung

dunia, mereka masih belum bersa-

ing dengan yang terbaik. Tetapi,

potensi untuk itu ada.’

Jika busana pria Belanda melan-

jutkan kemajuannya di jalur ini,

kiranya tidak akan lama sebelum

potensi ini terwujud.

franciscovanbenthum.com,


onfront.com

42: Dutch Courage

Keberanian Ala Belanda

103

suasana busana Belanda. Namun,

yang menarik saat ini adalah seka-

dar betapa kreatif juga bentang ak-

sesori negara ini, dengan seabrek

perancang mendesain ulang per-

hiasan, tas, dan alas kaki dengan

efek yang megah.

Jika sebuah label mode mencari

bukti puncak bahwa para peran-

cangnya ada di barisan terdepan,

cukup wajar mengatakan bahwa

mendandani Lady Gaga meru-

pakan penghargaan terbaik. Tan-

tangan itu telah dipenuhi dengan

seronok oleh gaco mode Belanda

Iris van Herpen. Ia telah mencip-

takan busana wanita yang men-

colok secara visual sejak memulai

labelnya sendiri di tahun 2007,

setelah sebelumnya bekerja den-

gan Alexander McQueen dan lalu

diundang untuk pameran sebagai

bagian dari acara adibusana (haute

couture) Paris bersama visioner

Daphne Guinness, fotografer Nick

Knight, dan arsitek sekaligus per-

ancang inovatif Belanda Rem D

Koolhaas. Pakaiannya membuat

terbelalak: sebagiannya dibuat

dengan bahan cetakan tiga dimen-

si; lainnya tampak seakan-akan

tulang yang dibuat modis. Sepatu-

nya benar-benar sarat eksperimen:

mengusung taji-taji purba (sepatu

taring, dengan gigi berigi-rigi yang

berfungsi sebagai sol), yang penuh

sesuatu yang terlihat seperti ten-

takel alien, tumit lengkung men-

colok, atau kisi-kisi yang rumit.

Efeknya selalu tegas dan memikat.

Mungkin sebuah sentuhan yang

lebih praktis dikenakan adalah la-

bel Elisa van Joolen, seorang per-

ancang Belanda lainnya yang telah

mengalihkan tangan kreatifnya

ke alas kaki. Pendatang baru asal

Amsterdam lulusan tahun 2012

Parsons New School for Design di

New York ini mengambil pendeka-

tan tidak biasa terhadap desain

sepatu dan produksi etis, lewat

mendaur ulang bahan dari raksa-

sa-raksasa seperti Nike, Converse,

dan Clarks, dan menyesuaikan apa

saja yang ia kumpulkan (sering be-

rasal dari stok sampel sisa) menjadi

mode yang mencolok berilham dari

jalanan. Metode kerjanya biasanya

berfokus pada pembalikan sepatu

sehingga bagian dalam menyeruak

keluar, dan setiap pencitraan mer-

ek dibalik dengan cerdik.

Kadang-kadang, fokus pada

kemahiran dan kesederhanaanlah

yang mengangkat label aksesori

terkemuka Belanda di atas yang

lain. Inilah etos di balik Royal

Republiq, sebuah label kulit yang

menciptakan barang-barang yang

diciutkan. Didirikan oleh Nicolas

Kjaer, merek ini memulai hidupnya

sebagai label konsep untuk laki-la-

ki sebelum merambah ke aksesori

perempuan. Kulit dan celup warna

alami digunakan untuk tas tote,

tas genggam (clutch), dan sepatu

bot tangguhnya (yang pas saat me-

napaki jalanan berbatu tepi kanal

di Amsterdam). Ada sederet ba-

rang pria yang juga bersinar, dari

ransel yang tegas dan cerah hingga

tas serbaguna (hold-all) yang sol-

id. Berkat seni kriya kulit, barang-

barang ini terlihat makin wah sam-

bil menua; merek ini telah memilih

daya tarik “cinta pakai” daripada

perubahan musiman yang dipacu

tren.

globalblue.com

104

Amsterdam juga berfungsi

sebagai pangkalan bagi seorang

perancang perhiasan yang tu-

rut menjungkirbalikkan aksesori

tradisional guna menciptakan ba-

rang-barang yang memberontak,

jenaka, dan anggun. Sandra Tu-

rina menggunakan bahan-bahan

seperti kayu, plastik, dan kertas lo-

gam untuk merancang kalung dan

bros yang seronok. Bentuk berlian

kayu yang dipotong rumit pada

liontinnya bermain-main dengan

bayangan perhiasan mulia, semen-

tara benda yang paling sederhana

pun berlaku sebagai materi pokok.

Perhatikan, misalnya, penggunaan

origami dan buah ek. Ini bukan

stereotip perhiasan yang manis

secara konvensional, dan karya

Turina lebih segar dan ganjil bagi

pendekatan ini.

Jika limpahan aksesori yang

ada ini tidak cukup, Amsterdam

juga mengagulkan museum tas

tangannya sendiri, Tassenmu-

seum, tempat koleksi tas pribadi

tokoh masyarakat Hendrikje Ivo

dipamerkan bersama koleksi yang

dikembangkan museum itu. Pen-

gunjung bisa menjelajahi tas-tas

genggam Prancis mewah dari abad

ke-18 hingga tas atas-pesanan Gi-

anni Versace yang liar, tas Hermès

Kelly yang ikonis, dan tas sadel

Dior yang memukau Setelah se-

buah perjalanan sarat ilham di

museum ini, toko-toko Amsterdam

menunggu dijelajahi.

irisvanherpen.com,

elisavanjoolen.com,

royalrepubliq.com,


tassenmuseum.nl

Belanja Bebas Pajak Global Blue

memberi Anda penghematan atas

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terbaik di dunia.

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106 | PRODUCTS


RED HOT

This shimmering clutch by

Amsterdam-based designer Hester

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terior and a calfskin interior and is

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sociated stingrays with power and,

based on this notion, van Eeghen’s

bag combines modern elegance

with bold colours. Van Eeghen re-

mains as involved in her work as she

was 30 years ago when she left law

studies to pursue her passion for ac-

cessories design. She continues to

design each piece from her studio

in Amsterdam, before travelling to

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carefully selected workshops. hl

Hester van Eeghen clutch bag,

€550, Hester van Eeghen,

Hartenstraat 37,

1016 CA Amsterdam,

+31 (0)20 626 9212,

hestervaneeghen.com


Souvenir

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Date post:	28-Mar-2016
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