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THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Gregor Clark, Vesna Maric
WesternSicily
p84
Palermop48
Syracuse &the Southeast
p188
MediterraneanCoastp233
IonianCoastp158
Tyrrhenian Coastp112
Aeolian Islandsp131
Central Sicilyp216
Sicily
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Welcome to Sicily . . . . . . . 4Sicily Map . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Sicily’s Top 14 . . . . . . . . . . .8Need to Know . . . . . . . . . .16First Time Sicily . . . . . . . .18If You Like . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20Month by Month . . . . . . . 23Itineraries . . . . . . . . . . . . 25Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . . 29Outdoor Activities . . . . . 35Travel with Children . . . . .41Regions at a Glance . . . . 44
PALERMO . . . . . . . . . 48Palermo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51Around Palermo . . . . . . . 80Mondello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Monreale. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Solunto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81Ustica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
WESTERN SICILY . . . 84Golfo di Castellammare . . . . . . . . 88Castellammare..del.Golfo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88Scopello. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89Around.Scopello. . . . . . . . . . 89San.Vito.Lo.Capo. . . . . . . . . 91Trapani . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Around Trapani . . . . . . . . 97Erice. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97Egadi Islands . . . . . . . . . . 99Favignana .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 100Levanzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101The Southwest . . . . . . . 102Saline.di.Trapani. . . . . . . . . 102Marsala . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103Mazara.Del.Vallo. . . . . . . . . 106Rocche.di.Cusa. . . . . . . . . . 108Selinunte. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
TYRRHENIAN COAST . . . . . . . . . . . .112Cefalù . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116Around Cefalù . . . . . . . . .119Termini.Imerese. . . . . . . . . 119Caccamo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Himera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 120Parco Naturale Regionale delle Madonie . . . . . . . . . . . . . .121Castelbuono. . . . . . . . . . . . 121Petralia.Soprana. . . . . . . . . 123
Petralia.Sottana. . . . . . . . . 124Piano.Battaglia. . . . . . . . . . 125Collesano. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125Parco Regionale dei Nebrodi . . . . . . . . . . 126San.Marco..D’Alunzio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126Mistretta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Coastal Resort Villages . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Castel.di.Tusa. . . . . . . . . . . 127Sant’Agata.di..Militello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127Capo.d’Orlando . . . . . . . . . 128Milazzo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
AEOLIAN ISLANDS . . . . . . . . . . 131Lipari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133Vulcano . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142Salina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145Panarea . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148Stromboli . . . . . . . . . . . . 150Filicudi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156Alicudi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
IONIAN COAST . . . . 158Messina . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162Around Messina . . . . . . 165Ganzirri.. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Savoca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Taormina . . . . . . . . . . . . 165Around Taormina . . . . . 170Giardini-Naxos . . . . . . . . . . 170Catania . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171Riviera dei Ciclopi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181Acireale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181Aci.Trezza. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182Aci.Castello. . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Mount Etna . . . . . . . . . . 183
PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD
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RESERVA NATURALE DELLO ZINGARO P89
Contents
SYRACUSE & THE SOUTHEAST . . 188Syracuse & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Syracuse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192Around.Syracuse. . . . . . . .202The Southeast . . . . . . . 203Valle.Dell’Anapo..&.Around. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .203Palazzolo.Acreide. . . . . . . .203Noto. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205The.Noto.Coast . . . . . . . . .208Modica. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .209South.of.Modica. . . . . . . . . 211Ragusa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 212
CENTRAL SICILY . . . 216Enna . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220North of Enna . . . . . . . . 223Calascibetta . . . . . . . . . . . . 223Nicosia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223South of Enna . . . . . . . . 223Piazza.Armerina. . . . . . . . . 223Villa.Romana.del..Casale .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 226Aidone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227Morgantina.. . . . . . . . . . . . . 229Caltagirone. . . . . . . . . . . . . 229The Western Interior . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231Caltanissetta. . . . . . . . . . . . 231
MEDITERRANEAN COAST . . . . . . . . . . . 233Agrigento . . . . . . . . . . . . 235West of Agrigento . . . . 242Casa.Natale.di..Pirandello . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242Eraclea.Minoa. . . . . . . . . . . 243Sciacca. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243Caltabellotta. . . . . . . . . . . . 246
East of Agrigento . . . . . 246Licata. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Falconara. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248Gela .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . 248Hilltop.Towns. . . . . . . . . . . .250
ACCOMMODATION . .251Palermo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252Western Sicily . . . . . . . . 254Tyrrhenian Coast . . . . . 256Aeolian Islands . . . . . . . 258Ionian Coast . . . . . . . . . 261Syracuse & the Southeast . . . . . . . . 264Central Sicily . . . . . . . . 266Mediterranean Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
Sicily Today . . . . . . . . . . 270
History . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
The Sicilian Table . . . . . 280
The Sicilian Way of Life . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Sicily on Page & Screen . . . . . . . . . . . . 292
The Mafia . . . . . . . . . . . . 296
Art & Architecture . . . . 300
Directory A–Z . . . . . . . . 304
Transport . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
Language . . . . . . . . . . . . .316
Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324
Map Legend . . . . . . . . . . 335
UNDERSTAND
SPECIAL FEATURES
Eat & Drink Like a Local . . . . . . . . . . 29
Outdoor Activities . . . . . 35
Sicilian Architecture . . . . . . . . . . 69
Accommodation . . . . . . .251
Classical Masterpieces Sicily is renowned for its classical masterpieces, the best of which is to be found in Agrigento. Ancient-history lovers can choose from wonderfully preserved Greek amphitheatres and temples, and rich Roman ruins.
Valley of the Temples The model for Unesco’s logo and one of the world’s best-preserved Greek temples, the Tempio della Concordia is the star turn of stunning Agrigento. The ruins (p 235 ) are what’s left of Akragas, once the fourth-largest city in the ancient world.
Parco Archeologico della Neapolis A major power in ancient times, Syracuse boasts one of Sicily’s great classical monuments – the Teatro Greco (p 193 ), a supremely well-preserved Greek amphitheatre. In the theatre’s shadow, you can explore caves where slaves once laboured.
Selinunte You don’t have to be an archaeologist to be bowled over by the Greek temples at Selinunte (p256). They are beautifully set against a sunny seaside backdrop that looks particularly fabulous in spring, when wildflowers set the scene ablaze with colour.
Segesta Standing in proud isolation amid rugged, green hills, the ruins of ancient Segesta (p 88 ) are an unforgettable sight. Pride of place goes to the stately 5th-century-BC temple but don’t miss the amphitheatre, dramatically gouged out of the hillside.
Solunto Originally founded by Phoenicians in the 8th century BC, ancient Solunto underwent several incarnations, including a period as the Roman city of Soluntum. Its remaining ruins (p 81 ), sprawled attractively over a steep seafront hillside, mostly date to the Roman era.
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1. Tempio della Concordia (p235) 2. Teatro Greco (p193) 3. Segesta (p88) 4. Solunto (p81)
SURVIVAL GUIDE
On the Road
WesternSicily
p84
Palermop48
Syracuse &the Southeast
p188
MediterraneanCoastp233
IonianCoastp158
Tyrrhenian Coastp112
Aeolian Islandsp131
Central Sicilyp216
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Capo Boeo
CapoGallo
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Caltabellotta
Caccamo
Partanna
Collesano
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TrapaniPalermo
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Vincenzo Florio(Birgi) Airport
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165Catania
8590Enna
215130270Milazzo
200140210130Palermo
26019013565215Syracuse
ROAD DISTANCES (km)Note: Distancesare approximate
365105300245315175
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CaccamoA picturesquely perched
Norman castle (p120)
EriceWestern Sicily's prettiest
hilltop village (p97)
PalermoArchitectural masterpieces
and amazing food (p51)
AgrigentoSicily's finest collection
of temples (p235)
Saline di TrapaniSalt ponds and
Phoenician ruins (p102)
Sicily
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ofMessina
Lago diPozzillo
Parco Regionaledei Nebrodi
Parcodell'Etna
Riviera deiCiclopi
Monti Iblei
Monti Peloritani
Monti Nebrodi
Monti Madonie
Mt Etna(3329m)
Pizzo Carbonara (1979m) Mt Soro(1847m)
Mt Fossadelle Felci
(962m)
Gola dell'Alcantara
CapoCalavà
CapoMilazzo
Capo PasseroCapo delleCorrenti
Punta del Faro(Capo Peloro)
Falconara
Savoca
San Pietro
Santa Marina Salina
Capod'Orlando
Acireale
Floridia
Pozzallo
Aci Trezza
SanMarcod'Alunzio
Aci CastelloMisterbianco
Aidone
Ganzirri
Mistretta
Mortelle
PetraliaSoprana
Casteldi Tusa
Lentini
Palagonia
Pachino
Bronte
Butera
Porto diLevante
PetraliaSottana
Giardini-Naxos
Villa SanGiovanni
Scicli
RavanusaMazzarino
PalazzoloAcreide
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Avola
Niscemi
Augusta
Taormina
Giarre
Castelbuono
Barcellona
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Cómiso
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PiazzaArmerina
Cefalù
Noto
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Enna
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Gela
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ELEVATION
CefalùMedieval mosaics and
gorgeous beaches (p116)
Aeolian IslandsDazzling seas and
honey-sweet wine (p131)
TaorminaSummer festivals in anancient theatre (p165)
Mt EtnaClimb Europe's largestactive volcano (p183)
SyracuseGreatest city of
Magna Graecia (p192)
Parco Naturale Regionaledelle Madonie
Splendid walks (p121)Noto
Graceful hill town ofbaroque domes (p205)
Fly into Palermo, Trapani or Catania and pick up a hire car to begin your circumnaviga-tion of the island. Your destinations should be the same regardless of where you start: Agrigento, Selinunte, Segesta, the Val di Noto, Syracuse, Catania, Mt Etna, Taormina, the Aeolian Islands and Palermo. From Palermo, for instance, after exploring the capital’s magnificent architectural monuments, you could head southwest to the temples at Segesta, Selinunte and Agrigento, then cut east across the island to the Unesco-listed Val di Noto, where the baroque beauties of Ragusa, Modica and Noto are all obligatory stops. Next it’s on to Syracuse, a highlight of any trip to Sicily: split your time here between the pedestrian-friendly ancient island city of Ortygia and the vast classical ruins of the Parco Archeologico. Continue up the coast to bustling Catania and circle Mt Etna to reach Taormina, a town whose abundant attractions include its ancient Greek theatre and the gorgeous beaches just below. Finally, hop a ferry to the Aeolian Islands for some sun, swimming and beautiful coastal scenery.
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Begin your tour of Unesco World Herit-age Sites in Syracuse, one of the ancient world’s great cities, where traces of Magna Graecia are omnipresent – from papyrus-fringed Fontana Aretusa to the amphitheatres, altars and caves of the Parco Archeologico. Next head west to the Necropoli di Pantalica – an eerie array of several thousand Bronze Age tombs built into limestone cliffs – before continuing to the captivating Val di Noto. The devastat-ing earthquake of 1693 may have wrought havoc on this corner of the island, but it also led to the creation of some of Sicily’s greatest treasures. The late-baroque towns of Noto, Modica and Ragusa are the stars, but it’s also worth seeking out the small villages of Scicli and Palazzolo Acreide and the famed ceramics centre of Caltagirone, with its grand staircase of 142 distinctively tiled steps. Continue west to dazzling Villa Romana del Casale, whose newly restored Roman mosaic floors depict bikini-clad gymnasts and African beasts prancing side by side. The trail ends at the most magnificent archaeological site in Sicily: Agrigento’s Valley of the Tem-ples, with its five Doric structures perched on a ridge near the coast.
Wining & Dining from West to East
7 DAYS
Start off in elegant Marsala, taste-testing the town’s famous sweet wine on a cellar tour at Cantine Florio, then lingering late into the night at the many enoteche and res-taurants in the pedestrian-friendly centre. Then follow the Strada del Vino Erice DOC wine route towards Trapani, where you can lunch on fabulous fish couscous, fol-lowed by dessert with a breathtaking view in Erice, renowned for its marzipan fruit, nougat and other nut-based sweets. Next, park your car for a day or two in Palermo, whose supremely colourful markets, deli-cious street food, irresistible bakeries and countless fine eateries are highlights of any Sicilian food trip. Take a cooking course, either at Palermo’s Butera 28 or down the road at the 400-hectare Regaleali estate near Vallelunga, one of Sicily’s leading wine producers. Meander east along the southern edge of the Madonie and Nebrodi mountains, refuelling frequently with local black pork, ricotta, pecorino, mushrooms and hazelnuts in pretty hill towns like Petralia Sottana and Nicosia. Last, circumnavigate spectacular Mt Etna, stop-ping for tastings of local honey, pistachios and Etna DOC wine before enjoying a final evening in cosmopolitan Catania.
26
PLAN YO
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Relax into your journey in postcard-perfect Cefalù, where you can lounge on the beach, visit the splendid medieval cathe-dral and enjoy panoramic coastal views from the ruins of the hilltop Norman cita-del. Follow the coast to Castel di Tusa, breaking for lunch on the waterfront be-fore exploring the town’s unique open-air sculpture garden. Next climb through the lost-in-time mountain town of Mistretta into the Nebrodi mountains, where grand views of Mt Etna begin to unfold. After brief detours to explore the medieval vil-lage of Nicosia, continue south to Enna, a handsome hill town that marks the geo-graphic centre of Sicily – a fact best appre-ciated from atop the heavily fortified walls of the Castello di Lombardia. Snake back north through Gangi into the heart of the Parco Naturale Regionale delle Mado-nie, a magnificent natural landscape dot-ted with hazelnut orchards, ash forests and photogenic hilltop towns. Linger a couple of days along the mountains’ western edge in beautiful Petralia Soprana, Petralia Sottana, Collesano and Castelbuono, each of which boasts fine regional restau-rants and makes a good base for hikes into the mountains. From Castelbuono an easy downhill jaunt takes you back to Cefalù.
Smoke & Fire: Volcanic Sicily
7 DAYS
Start in Catania, a city built of lava from the devastating volcanic eruption of 1669. Your first logical step is to climb the vol-cano that did all the damage, Mt Etna, nowadays one of Sicily’s leading tourist attractions. As legend would have it, it was from Etna’s lofty heights that the Cyclops hurled his stones at the fleeing Odysseus – you can still see their jagged forms along the dramatic Riviera dei Ciclopi coast-line, where traditional fishing villages have been reinvented as summer resorts. Next follow our driving tour of Etna’s western flank and continue north to Milazzo, where you can catch a ferry to Lipari, the largest of the Aeolian Islands. Read up on the archipelago’s fiery past at Lipari’s Museo Archeologico, then go tour a few volcanoes for yourself. Nature lovers can explore the verdant island of Salina, whose twin extinct cones are one of Sicily’s most harmonious sights. Those looking for something a little more ‘active’ can climb smoking Fossa di Vulcano, with its sulphur-belching crater and gloopy mudbaths, or scale the ‘lighthouse of the Mediterranean’, Stromboli, an eternal lava-lamp whose eruptions continually light up the night sky.
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7 DAYS
Unpack your beach towel for the first time at Mondello, Palermo’s summer playground. Then head west to the stun-ning Golfo di Castellammare, where the popular beaches of Castellammare del Golfo and San Vito lo Capo offer an urban counterpoint to the pristine Ris-erva Naturale dello Zingaro, home to a series of sparkling coves spread out along a 7km walking trail. Next stop is Sicily’s west coast. Beach aficionados will love the untrammelled Riserva Naturale Torre Salsa, the town of Eraclea Minoa, whose fabulous beach is complemented by an archaeological site, and the blindingly chalk-white Scala dei Turchi. Continue your beach-hop along Sicily’s Ionian Coast, with visits to the isolated shores of the Riserva Naturale Oasi Faunistica di Vendicari and the blue waters at Aci Cas-tello, where a Norman castle broods over the beach scene. Wrap it all up with stops at bustling Lido Mazzarò just below Taormina, Piscina di Venere at the tip of Capo Milazzo, and the long sandy beach in Cefalù. From here it’s a quick trip back to Palermo.
Offshore Islands10 DAYS
Your island-hopping adventure begins with a half-hour hydrofoil trip from Marsala or Trapani to Favignana, gateway to the Egadi Islands. Tour the old Florio tuna factory and cycle through Favignana’s landscape of abandoned tufa quarries and beaches, then ferry across to see prehistor-ic cave art at Levanzo and hike the trails of Marettimo. Next stop is the offshore diving paradise of Ustica, whose pristine waters and easygoing pace will make you forget you’re only 90 minutes from down-town Palermo. When you’re ready for a culture shock, boomerang back to the Sicil-ian ‘mainland’ for the train from Palermo to Milazzo, then hydrofoil out to the Aeo-lian Islands, seven volcanic beauties with seven personalities. Start on the biggest, Lipari, where you can tour the superb archaeological museum, linger over drinks in the pleasant town centre or explore the island’s outlying beaches and walking trails. From Lipari, frequent hydrofoils allow easy day trips to all the remaining islands: smoky Vulcano, chic Panarea, lush green Salina, remote Alicudi, off-the-beaten-track Filicudi and the most spectacular of all, actively erupting Stromboli.
28
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Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use .
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Melbourne, London, Oakland and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – January 2014ISBN 978 1 74220 048 4© Lonely Planet 2014 Photographs © as indicated 201410 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved . No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher . Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries . Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels . Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet .com/ip .
Gregor ClarkCoordinating Author, Palermo, Western Sicily, Tyrrhenian Coast, Aeolian Islands Gregor caught the Italy bug at age 14 during a year in Florence, in which his professor dad trundled the family off to see every fresco, mosaic and museum within a 1000km radius. He’s lived in Venice and Le Marche, led Italian bike tours, and huffed and puffed across the Dolomites while researching Lonely Planet’s Cycling Italy, but his abiding passion is for Sicily, an island he’s explored exten-
sively in multiple research trips over the past several years. Highlights of his latest visit include celebrating his birthday atop an erupting Stromboli. A lifelong polyglot with a degree in Romance languages, Gregor writes frequently about Europe and South America for Lonely Planet. He lives with his wife and two daughters in Vermont, USA. Gregor also wrote the Plan Your Trip section (except for Outdoor Activities and Travel with Children), the Sicily Today, History, The Sicilian Table and The Sicilian Way of Life Understand features and the Survival Guide.
Vesna MaricIonian Coast, Syracuse & the Southeast, Central Sicily, Mediterranean Coast Vesna has been working for Lonely Planet for nearly a decade and loves writing about the Mediterranean islands. She cherished working on the Sicily guidebook for the second time, and loved revisiting old favourites such as Catania’s fish market and the Piazza Duomo at Syracuse. She returned with her three-year-old daughter this time. Vesna also wrote the Outdoor Activities, Travel with Children, Sicily on Page & Screen, The Mafia, and Art & Architecture chapters.
Read more about Gregor at: lonelyplanet .com/members/gregorclark
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