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A shop vacuum is great for collecting dust and chips in a smallshop. But there are a couple of problems with it. The lter quicklyclogs with dust, which reduces suction. And the limited capacityof many vacuums means you need to empty them frequently.
The system you see here solves both of those issues. A com-mercial cyclone unit diverts most of the debris into a largehopper. This empties into a standard yard waste bag for easyremoval and disposal. With a compact footprint and low-cost
materials, this is a great upgrade for any shop.
best-builtjigs & fixtures
Simple upgrades turnyour shop vacuuminto an efficient dust-collection system.
small shop
DustCollector
{ Yard Waste Bag. Dust and chips drop into a yard
waste bag for easy disposal. Interlocking bars keep
he bag in place when the door is closed.
24 ShopNotes No. 137
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Materials & Hardware
A Sides (2) 14 x 72 - 34Ply.
B Top/Bottom/Dividers (4) 1334x 23 - 34Ply.
C Partition (1) 1334x 1412- 34Ply.
D Toe Kick (1) 314x 2212- 34 Ply.
E Back (1) 2312x 6834- 14Ply.
F Plate (1) 1334x 2212 - 34 Ply.
G Side Strips (2) 218x 1334- 14Ply.
H Back Strip (1) 134x 1814 - 14Ply.
I Gate (1) 24 x 1512- 14Ply.
J Chute Front (1) 34x 3 - 1734K Chute Back (1) 34x 412- 1734L Chute Sides (2) 34x 3 - 1014
M Rear Baffle (1)3
4x 47
16- 221
2
N Side Baffles (2) 34x 4716- 1334O Front (1) 24 x 2138 - 34 Ply.
P Glass Stop (1) 34x 12- 23 rgh.
Q Lower Door (1) 24 x 3214 - 34 Ply.
R Lock Rail (1) 34x 1316- 1734S Shelves (2) 1034x 13 - 34 Ply.
T Upper Doors (2) 111516x 1434- 34 Ply.
(18) #8 x 112" Fh Woodscrews
(6) #6 x 12" Fh Woodscrews
(1) 278" x 578" - 18" Glass
(1) 38" x 14" Weatherstripping
(7) 112" x 112" Butt Hinges w/Screws
(2) Draw Latches w/Screws
(8) 14" Shelf Supports
(2) Magnetic Catches w/Screws
(1) Dust Deputy Cyclone
(6) 14"-20 x 112" Carriage Bolts, Washers & Nu
(3) 434" Pulls w/Screws
(1) 8" x 34" Hanger Strap
(2) #8 x 12" Rh Woodscrews
(1) 2" Long Sweep PVC Elbow
(1) 2" Long Sweep Street PVC Elbow
(2) 2"-112" PVC Reducers
(2) 2" PVC 45 Elbows
(1) 10' x 2" Schedule 40 PVC Pipe
(1) Yard Waste Bag
ShopNotes.com 25
Materials & Hardware
COMMERCIAL CYCLONE
UNIT SEPARATES CHIPS
AND LARGE DUST
PARTICLES INTO HOPPER
ANGLED
BAFFLES DIRECT
DEBRIS INTO
YARD WASTE BAG
WEATHER
STRIPPING
SMALL WINDOW
LETS YOU KNOW
WHEN TO EMPTYHOPPER
FRONT PANEL
SECURED WITH
SCREWS FOR
EASY REMOVAL
SIMPLE SLIP FIT
MAKES IT EASY
TO DISCONNECT
SHOP VACUUM
FOR OTHER USES
SHOP VACUUM
FILTER STAYS
CLEAN AND
RUNS MORE
EFFICIENTLY
EASY-ACCESS UPPER
COMPARTMENT ADDS
EXTRA STORAGE
TO YOUR SHOP
SLIDING GATE
LETS DUST
AND CHIPS
FALL INTO BAG
A FULLY
ENCLOSED
CABINET
ELIMINATES
DUST CLOUDS
WHEN
EMPTYING
HOPPER
YARD WASTE
BAG MAKES FOR
EASY DISPOSAL
OF SAWDUST
LARGE HOPPER
MEANS YOU DON'T
HAVE TO EMPTY IT
VERY OFTEN
WEATHERSTRIPPING
SEALS HOPPER
COMPARTMENT
USE PVC PIPING
AND BLAST GATE
TO CONNECT DUS
COLLECTOR T
OTHER TOOL
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 24"W x 72"H x 1534"D
Exploded View Details
To download acutting diagram forthe dust collector,
go to:ShopNotes.com
7/26/2019 Small Shop Dust Collector
3/626 ShopNotes No. 137
CL
CL
CL
SIDE(14" x 72")
TOP(13#/4" x 23")
BOTTOM(13#/4" x 23")
PARTITION(13#/4" x 14!/2")
TOE KICK(3!/4" x 22!/2")
BACK(23!/2" x 68#/4")
B
A
D
E
NOTE: BACKIS !/4" PLYWOOD.ALL OTHERPARTS ARE #/4"PLYWOOD
NOTE: HOLESARE 3"-DIA.
5!/4
8!!/16
5!!/16
5!!/16
3#/8
3!/4
1#/4
35#/4
3!/4
2
UPPER DIVIDER(13#/4" x 23")B
LOWER DIVIDER(13#/4" x 23")
B
B
NOTE: CENTERMORTISE ONLOWERCOMPARTMENTOPENING
A
C
2
One of the nice things about thissystem is that everything is con-tained in a space-saving cabinet.
The cabinet is divided into fourcompartments. Up top, youllnd the cyclone unit behind theright door. The left door coversa storage compartment for vac-uum accessories or other items.
The middle compartment inthe cabinet is the collection hop-per. The chips and other debrisfall from the cyclone into thissealed chamber.
The lower compartment issized to hold a commonly avail-able yard waste bag. You canempty the hopper into the bagwithout raising a cloud of dust.
Figure 1 shows the generalstructure of the cabinet. You cansee that it goes together with
fairly simple dado and rabbetjoints. What makes things a littleout of the ordinary is that thesides and back are pretty long.So instead of taking the parts tothe table saw like I usually do, Iturned to portable power tools tohandle most of the work.
I used a circular saw to cut thesides and back to size. (The top,
bottom, dividers, partition, and
toe kick are all small enough tocut at the table saw.)
A hand-held router and astraightedge guide make a goodcombination for cutting the dado
joints. Its a good idea to measurethe plywood to nd a bit thatmatches the thickness.
The rabbet along the back edgeof the sides requires a differentapproach, as shown in Figure1c. Here, you can use a bearing-guided rabbeting bit to do the job.
A Few Details. I want to takea moment to look at a few detailsin some of the cabinet pieces. Firstoff, the top, bottom, and dividersare all the same size. Except forthe bottom, the other panels needsome additional work.
The top and upper dividerhave a centered dado to holdthe partition, as in Figures 1 and1a. You also need to drill somelarge holes. These accommodatethe connections for the cyclone.I used a hole saw and a heavy-duty hand drill.
build a tall plywood
Cabinet
1
FIGURE
FRONTVIEW
SIDE
TOP
PARTITION
#/4
!/4
!/4
a.
SIDE
LOWER DIVIDER
BACK
FRONT VIEW
2
!/4
1!/2
MORTISEFOR HINGE
b.
SIDE
BACK
PARTITION
!/4
TOPVIEW
!/4c.
24
DIVIDER
#/4
NOTE: DRILLSHELF PIN HOLESAFTER GLUING UP
THE CASE
SIDE VIEW
1
2
#/16
2
SIDE
TOP
1!/2
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NOTE: CHUTEPARTS ARE MADEFROM #/4"-THICKHARDWOOD
J
I
H
G
F
PLATE(13#/4" x 22!/2")
SIDE STRIP(2!/8" x 13#/4")
BACK STRIP(1#/4" x 18!/4")
GATE(24" x 15!/2")
CHUTE FRONT(3" x 17#/4")
CHUTE SIDE(3" x 10!/4")
CHUTE BACK(4!/2" x 17#/4")
1#/4
NOTE: ASSEMBLEGATE AND CHUTE THENATTACH TO LOWERDIVIDER WITH SCREWS
NOTE: PLATE IS#/4" PLYWOOD.GATE AND STRIPSARE !/4" PLYWOOD
NOTE: CHUTEASSEMBLY INSTALLED
FLUSH WITH INSIDEFRONT/SIDES OF
OPENING ON PLATE
G
K
L
L
ShopNotes.com 27
2 FIGURE
The lower divider has a largeopening cut in it. This allowsdust and chips to fall from thehopper compartment to the bag.
Hassle-Free Assembly. Glu-
ing up a large cabinet like thiscould cause some anxiety. Butyou can simplify things by add-ing glue to the joints and nailingthe cabinet with an air nailer. Thislets you get on with the construc-tion without wrangling a lot ofclamps or waiting for glue to dry.
This stage of the process is agood time to cut mortises forthe hinges. If you turn to page32, you can see the jig I used to
support a hand-held router andlocate the mortises accurately.
Dust Chute. Its time to turnyour attention to some interiorwork. This involves making theassembly that seals off the bot-tom of the hopper. The rst partof the assembly is shown in Fig-ure 2. It consists of a sliding gatethats sandwiched between thelower divider and a plate. Belowthat is a chute that ts inside the
opening of the yard waste bag.
The plate has a pair of open-ings for chips to fall through. Thelarger opening handles most of
the material. Ill explain the rea-son for the other one in a bit.
Glue a few strips of thin ply-wood around the top face of theplate. This creates a pocket forthe gate once the plate is attachedto the lower divider.
The Gate. The gate is sized tot inside the pocket and seal offthe large opening in the lowerdivider. You can use the drawingat right to guide you while cut-
ting it to shape.The two horns at the back of
the gate are important features.They snowplow any dust thatdrifts into the gate pocket tothe narrow slot that you cut inthe plate. This system preventsdust from building up over timethat could keep the gate fromclosing and creating a good seal.
A Chute. The remaining part ofthe assembly is a framework that
acts as a chute for dust and holds
the bag in position. There are twothings to note here. The chutefront has a groove cut in it that
lines up with a mating rail in thedoor to pinch the bag and hold itin place (Figure 2c).
The other detail is the backpiece. Its wider than the othersto help you align the bag for easyinstallation. These are glued inplace, and the whole assemblycan be screwed to the bottom ofthe lower divider, as in Figure 2.
FRONTVIEW
#8 x 1!/2" FhWOODSCREW
PLATE
CHUTEBACK
CHUTE
SIDE 2#/4
#/4
!/4"CHAMFER
2#/8
GATE
a.
SIDE VIEW
G
F
B
CHUTE SIDE
CHUTEBACKCHUTE
FRONT
#/8
!/4
!/4"CHAMFERS
2
1
c.
NOTE: DASH LINESSHOW EDGES OF CHUTE
TOP VIEW
1#/4PLATE
#/4
3!/8
#/4
BACK
2!/8
b.
CL
GATE
2&/8
TOP VIEW
11#/4
1!/2
#/4
1
1"-DIA.
7/26/2019 Small Shop Dust Collector
5/628 ShopNotes No. 137
CL
M
PN
REARBAFFLE
(4&/16" x 22!/2")
SIDEBAFFLE
(4&/16" x 13#/4")
FRONT PANEL(24" x 21#/8")
GLASS STOP(!/2" x #/4")
NOTE: BAFFLESAND GLASS STOP
ARE #/4"-THICKHARDWOOD.
FRONT PANEL IS#/4" PLYWOOD
GLASSPANEL
(2&/8" x 5&/8"- !/8")
MITER GLASSSTOP TO FIT
OPENING ANDSECURE WITH
SCREWS
APPLY SELF-ADHESIVEWEATHERSTRIPPING TO
CABINET BEFOREATTACHING FRONT PANEL
O
1!/2
3
6
N
#8 x 1!/4" FhWOODSCREW
3
Just a bit of work is left on thehopper before you can close it in.After that, building a few doorswraps up the woodworking.Then youll be ready for install-ing the cyclone and making theairow connections.
The hole in the lower dividerallows most of the dust and chips
inside the hopper to fall into thebag. To direct all the dust andchips toward the hole, I installed
a set of angled bafes on threesides of the opening.
The rear bafe is the rst andsimplest to make and install.It has a 45 bevel along eachedge, as you can see in Figure 3.Clamping this piece would be achallenge, so I used brads to xits position while the glue dried.
The side bafe pieces start outthe same as the rear piece, witha bevel cut along each edge. Butin order for them to t seamlessly
against the rear piece, they needcompound miters cut at the backends. This takes into account the
angle of the rear bafe and theangle of the side bafes.
I used a table saw to make thiscut. Figure 3b helps you set themiter gauge and blade angle.After cutting the miter, tilt the
blade back to 90 and trim thebafe to nal length. For the otherside bafe, you need to set themiter gauge to the opposite angleand use the other miter gauge slot.
Closing In. The front of thehopper is sealed with a plywood
panel. A small glass window inthe panel lets you see when toempty the hopper once thedust gets halfway up the win-dow is a good time. The glass isset in a rabbet and held in placewith L-shaped glass stop, as illus-trated in Figure 3c.
In case I need to open up thehopper at some point to clear aclog, I didnt glue the front panelin place. Instead its held with
screws. To maintain a good seal, Iwrapped the edge with adhesive-
backed weatherstripping.Lower Door. The three doors
on this project are all prettystraightforward slab doors.But there are still a few thingsabout each one that deserve someattention. On the inside face ofthe lower door, theres a rail witha tongue cut on one edge (Fig-ure 4b). As I mentioned earlier,
this works with the groove in
enclosing the
Cabinet
3!/8
Q
LOCK RAIL(1#/16" x 17#/4")
LOWERDOOR
(24" x 32!/4")
4#/4" HANDLEW/SCREWS
NOTE: DOORIS MADE FROM#/4" PLYWOOD.LOCK RAIL ISMADE FROM#/4"-THICKHARDWOOD
DRAW LATCHW/SCREWS
PAPERYARD WASTE
BAG
R
4
FRONTVIEW
REARBAFFLE
SIDEBAFFLE
SECURE BAFFLESWITH GLUE AND
BRAD NAILS
45
a.
SIDEVIEW
#/8FRONTPANEL
GLASSSTOP
#6 x #/4" FhWOODSCREW
GLASS
!/4
!/4
!/16
c.
SIDEVIEW !/4
LOCKRAIL
LOWERDOOR
LOCK RAIL PRESSESBAG INTO GROOVE IN
CHUTE FRONT
!/4
b.
SIDEVIEW
LOWERDOOR
4
2
a.
55
ONE END OF EACHSIDE BAFFLE IS
CUT AT ACOMPOUND
MITER
35
b.
7/26/2019 Small Shop Dust Collector
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the chute front to hold the bag.Attach the rail so that the tongueon the rail aligns with the groovein the chute front.
The hinges on the door aremounted on the inside face. Onthe opposite edge, I used drawlatches. This way the bag cant
force the door open as it
lls up.Shelves. Before making theupper doors, you can cut a pairof shelves for the upper storagecompartment (Figure 5). Theyrest on adjustable shelf supports.
Upper Doors. The upperdoors are just smaller versions ofthe lower door. Simple magneticcatches hold these doors closed.
Painted Finish. I decided topaint the outside of the cabinet.(The inside has a clear nish.)The key thing is preparing thesurfaces, especially the cut edgesof the plywood. After sandingthe whole project, I used drywallspackle to ll the edges and thensanded them smooth.
A coat of primer is the nextstep. I like to sand the primercoat to make sure the surfacesare smooth. If you nd a blem-ish, you can ll it and re-primethat section. This prep work sets
the stage for applying the n-ish coats of paint. Two coats ofpaint are all thats necessary for agood-looking, durable nish.
The Cyclone. The nal step isto install the cyclone unit. Use theholes in the cyclone to drill mount-ing holes in the cabinet, as in Fig-ures 5 and 5b. For the tightest seal,apply a thin bead of kitchen and
bath sealant to the bottom of thecyclone before attaching it.
Figure 6 has the details for abasic setup to connect your shop
vacuum and tools to the collec-tor. To minimize air leaks, wrapthe joint between the PVCreduc-ers and the cyclone with foil tape(lower right photo).
The dust collector is now readyto go. Its a great upgrade for anyshop vacuum. And in no time,your shop will be cleaner.
S
T
SHELF(#/4" x 10#/4" - 13")
UPPER DOOR(11!%/16" x 14#/4")
NOTE: SHELVESAND DOORS AREMADE FROM #/4"PLYWOOD
DUSTDEPUTY
CYCLONEUNIT
HANDLEW/SCREWS
L-SHAPEDSHELF
SUPPORTS
ST
MAGNETIC CATCHW/SCREWS
2" TO 1.5" PVCREDUCER
2" PVC PIPE(3" LONG)
2" PVC(LONG SWEEP)
ELBOW
#/4" x 8"HANGERSTRAP
2" PVC PIPE(3" LONG)2" TO 1.5" PVC
REDUCER
2" PVC45 ELBOW
#8 x !/2" RhWOODSCREW
VACUUMHOSE
2" PVC PIPE(2" LONG)
2" PVC(LONG SWEEP)STREET ELBOW
6
5
TOPVIEW
TOTOOL
NOTE: ANGLETOOL INLET PIPE
TO RUNAGAINST WALL
WALLa.
} Cyclone. The
design of the
cyclone draws
dust and chips oof the air flow so
they dont fill the
vacuum canister.
ShopNotes.com 29
SIDEVIEWUPPERDOOR
!#/16
SHELF
2
a.
SIDEVIEW
USE CYCLONETO LOCATEMOUNTING
HOLES
!/4-20 x 1!/2"CARRIAGEBOLTS,
WASHERS,ANDNUTS
APPLY A BEAD OFKITCHEN/BATHSEALANT TO
BASE OFCYCLONE BEFORE
INSTALLING
b