In order to switch some floodlights by my Arduino, the small switch circuits I built around a 39mf22 (http://www.instructables.com/id/Buildingafourchannel SolidStateRelay/)were just not man enough to handle the current needed, so I decided to build a switch with discrete components around a TRIAC. Now these circuits are very easy and come a dime a dozen on the internet: just google for TIC206 or MOC3041 and you have lots of choice. The reason I make an instructable for such a simple circuit is to also provide a print design for those people to lazy or unable to make a design themselves :) But let me start with a disclaimer/warning: This circuit is connected to a mains voltage that can kill you. If you do not know what you are doing then do not build this circuit.. Do not touch it when it is connected to the mains. The metal plate of the Triac is connected to it's Terminal 2 and thus to the mains voltage. When in use, do not touch that plate to feel how warm it gets. Related (http://cdn.instructables.com/FF2/SU37/H8CVG64V/FF2SU37H8CVG64V.LARGE.jpg) (http://cdn.instructables.com/FJJ/T0FA/H8CVG6AT/FJJT0FAH8CVG6AT.LARGE.jpg) (http://cdn.instructables.com/FLL/KOAN/H8CVG6UI/FLLKOANH8CVG6UI.LARGE.jpg) (http://cdn.instructables.com/FPL/YK1N/H8CVGAL0/FPLYK1NH8CVGAL0.LARGE.jpg) About This Instructable License: 12,117 views 24 favorites (/member/diy_bloke/) diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) Follow I am a physician by trade. After a career in the pharmeceutical world I decided to take it a bit slower and do things I like. Other than my hobbies that involves grassroots medicine in S.E.&P Asia. I ...read more » (/member/diy_bloke/) 101 Bio: (/id/Irrigatingyourgarden withanopampThecircuit) (/id/Slaveflashforautomatic cameraswithpreflash) (/id/AltoidArduino) More by diy_bloke triac (/tag/typeid/categorytechnology/keywordtriac/) switch (/tag/typeid/categorytechnology/keyword switch/) Arduino technology (/tag/typeid/category technology/keywordarduino technology/) Tags: Simple Low Voltage AC switching with a microcontroller (/id/SimpleLowVoltage ACswitchingwitha Arduino controlled light dimmer (/id/Arduino controlledlightdimmer Thecircuit/) by diy_bloke Arduino EL wire controller (sound activated) (/id/ArduinoELwire controllersound Small Triac Switch by diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) Collection I Made it! Download (/id/SmallTriacSwitch/?download=pdf) Favorite Share (/) let's make share what you make > (/editInstructable/) (/) Explore (/tag/typeid/) Create (/about/submit.jsp) Contests (/contest/) Community (/community/) Login (/account/login) | Sign Up (/account/gopro?sourcea=header)
Transcript
In order to switch some floodlights by my Arduino, the small switch circuits I builtaround a 39mf22 (http://www.instructables.com/id/BuildingafourchannelSolidStateRelay/)were just not man enough to handle the current needed, so Idecided to build a switch with discrete components around a TRIAC.
Now these circuits are very easy and come a dime a dozen on the internet: justgoogle for TIC206 or MOC3041 and you have lots of choice. The reason I makean instructable for such a simple circuit is to also provide a print design for thosepeople to lazy or unable to make a design themselves :)
But let me start with a disclaimer/warning:This circuit is connected to a mains voltage that can kill you. If you do notknow what you are doing then do not build this circuit.. Do not touch itwhen it is connected to the mains. The metal plate of the Triac isconnected to it's Terminal 2 and thus to the mains voltage. When in use,do not touch that plate to feel how warm it gets.
I am a physician by trade. After acareer in the pharmeceutical world Idecided to take it a bit slower and dothings I like. Other than my hobbies thatinvolves grassroots medicine in S.E.&PAsia. I ...read more »(/member/diy_bloke/)
Simple Low Voltage ACswitching with amicrocontroller(/id/SimpleLowVoltageACswitchingwithaArduino controlled lightdimmer (/id/ArduinocontrolledlightdimmerThecircuit/)by diy_blokeArduino EL wire controller(sound activated)(/id/ArduinoELwirecontrollersound
Small Triac Switch by diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/)
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That is a total of €2.55The links are just there to illustrate what I mean and to give a price indication. Ihave no links to that webshop other than that i use it and am satisfied with it.It is also possible to use the considerably cheaper BT136600, that like theTIC206 can deliver 4Amps, but it's gate current is a hefty 3570mA as comparedto the TIC206's 5mA. If a BT136 is used, the 470Ohm resistor may need to be abit smaller (150 Ohm). The BTA16600 is also a good choice
additionally you may need:capacitor 10100nF 400Vresistor 39100 Ohmresistor 330 Ohm
The PCB is here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52513692/ssr206_etch_copper_bottom.pdf).and mirorred here (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52513692/ssr206_etch_copper_bottom_mirror.pdf).
The circuitThe main components in this circuit are the MOC3041 optocoupler and theTIC206 TRIAC (M or D version). I have chosen for a MOC3041 because it has azero crossover circuit in the chip, ensuring smooth switching. The TIC 206 isa triac that has a relatively sensitive gate.
The output from an Arduino or other uP is led to the MOC3041 via a 22o Ohmresistor and an LED. This way one can see for sure if there is current flowingthrough the optocoupler. The gate of the thyristor is fed from a 470 Ohm resistor that connects throughthe MOC3041 optocouplerOn the printed circuit board there is room for a 330 Ohm resistor (labelled with a'*'). If one uses the TIC206 TRiac this resistor is not necessary. Some otherthyristors however may need that resistor in order to start.
As I am switching a lamp, I have no use for a snubber circuit (formed by the100R resistor and C1). However, if you switch inductive loads you will need one.The values of the resistor and capacitor may vary depending on your situationbut a proper way to start would be a 100 Ohm resistor and a 100nF capacitor.The PCB offers holes at various distances, suitable for different sizes ofcapacitors.
The PCBDownload the PCB design(s) above and use your favorite method to etch yourPCB. With regard to the design: the pcb picture in this ibble is seen from thecomponent side: The copper traces thus are actually seen as if you are lookingthrough the board. That is why the writing is in reverse. This design is suitablefor a direct toner transfer
If you use the mirrorred design, the writing is in fact not mirrorred.
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I have used the non mirrorred design for a direct toner transfer (printing it onglossy paper and ironing it on a copperplate) and that works well. Etching inHydrochloric acid and Hydroyperoxide.
ConnectingThere is only a two pole connector on this PCB that can be thought of as aswitch, interrupting the 'Live' line of a connection, just like a regular switch. Thefigure shows the proper way to connect it according to EU codes: Blue isneutral, brown is live black is switched and yellow green is earth. Outside the EUthere are different colour codes.
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mashiurmmr (/member/mashiurmmr/)
Hi,
I am making another switch to control water valve of over head tank and usingthis circuit. I am facing problem that when I supply current to pin 1 ofMOC3410 pin 4 & 6 get connection but even after cutting the current supply topin 1 the connections of pin 4 & 6 remains. I want some thing which cuts offconnection when the signal is off. Can you suggest any solution.
MahiurmmrIt seems like you have exactlythe same problem as before:The MOC3041 should shut offonce you remove power. if itdoesn’t, you might have afaulty one or yr circuit is notcorrect.If it is just to switch a controlvalve and you are having somuch trouble with teh MOC,how about a transistor with arelay?
mashiurmmr (/member/mashiurmmr/)
Hi,
Thanks for the circuit I made it, used a mobile for input signal ( ringtone) and12 volt for operation of a relay had to use a triac 547 to enhance the signal therelay is switch on but it remains switched on even after cutting the input signal.I have used all registers and the PF(100n) only R330 register excluded and Iused Tric225 instead of 206.
I am using it with timer and magnetic contract to drive a pump, I solved theproblem of shutting the relay of by using the magnetic contracts connection tocut the power (12v) when the time is on.
I thought the load (relay) will switch off when input signal is stops. Can youadvice me what to change in the circuit.
yes the Triac should switch offso something is keeping it on.But first I need someclarification of your sentence:"I solved the problem ofshutting the relay of by usingthe magnetic contracts connection to cut thepower (12v) when the time ison."What exactly are you cuttingthe power off from??Also, I am not really sure whatit is that is not switching off? isit your relay or the TRIAC?The 547 btw is a transistorand not a triac.Could you perhaps send me adrawing of yr circuit?If you are using a relay, youmay as well use that to switchyr load
mashiurmmr (/member/mashiurmmr/) diy_bloke
Hi,
Yes 547 is a transistor,actually I am a hobbyist.Trying to make homeautomation.
I use a timer and a magneticcontact to drive overheadwater pump. I made theconnections such a way thatwhen I apply power through apush button switch to timer,timer starts the magneticcontact which starts the pumpand also provides power totimer. When the time is uptimer shuts the magneticcontact, the pump and timerboth stops.
I used this circuit to activatethe connection of push buttonswitch. As mobile ringersignal is low used thetransistor. But the triac keepssupplying current even afterinput signal is stopped.
As I had ideal connections inthe magnetic contact which isconnected when the contactis off, I used that connectionto supply power(12v) tocircuit. So as soon as thetimer starts, the magneticcontact is activated andpower to the circuit is cut off.
When the time is up thepower to the circuit getrestored.
I think I did it manually, but Iplan to use a flip flop circuit infuture. Give me some tips onthat but now I need to knowwhy the triac keeps theconnection on. Thanks forreading.
MashiurI admire your energy anddrive, but i get the impressionyour circuit is needlesslycomplicated. Why not just use1 transistor and one relay toswitch your contact, no needfor the Triac circuit
Hi
It had a lot of fun doing this. Got a PCB printed and have the ability to control 7switches using this. I have added a xbee module to make it wireless.
Congratulations for your work.I'm in a similar project and Ihave faced some problems. Isent you a message aboutthis project. If you can helpme, thank you very much!
what have u sent the msg on? i don't have anything in myinbox...rituparna89@gmail
diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) (author) rmatkar
looks great. Thanks for postingit. Always good do see whatpeople do with ibbles.Impressibe PCB :)
rmatkar (/member/rmatkar/) diy_bloke
thanks
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) rmatkar
Nice Work. Looks awesome.
Regards,
Abhishek.
XenonHK (/member/XenonHK/)
Hi all,
I have using MOC3043 and BT136600 (without using snubber circuit due tosystem will automatically triggered). When the circuit is connected to the fan ordigital clock, it works fine. I can control it on or off without any problem.However, when i connect the circuit with CFL, light is flashing. How to solvethe problem?
My circuit is follow MOC3043 datasheet Figure 13. HotLine SwitchingApplication Circuit ( http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/MO/MOC3043M.pdf)
diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) (author) XenonHK
XenonHKYou are touching on afrequently asked question. Thefact is that just a regular CFLisn't really suitable to bedimmed by a traditional TRIACdimmer as it is not merely aresistive load, but a piece ofelectronic equipment. Anincandescant lamp and a CFLare as comparable as a breadtoaster and a TV set: both useelectricity and that's about it.There are specific dimmers forCFL lamps and dimmable CFLlamps: They usually functionby feeding a variable voltage(110V) to the CFL controller.That means that if you havesuch a lamp, you could makean analog out circuit comingfrom your arduino, that youfeed to the dimmable CFLlamp.
Thanks a lot for your quickreply and your information. Iwill study it. I would like toask one quick question on mycircuit. Can the my circuitable to handling CFL on/offcontrol, without flickering (nodimming function is needed)?Thanks a lot
Best regards
Xenon
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/)
Thanks for all your help guys.
I completed the required circuit and it works great. I tested it with a pedestalfan for 45 hours and no heating and things like that.
I switched to BTA16 due to its high dv/dt values I was able to remove theissue created due to the transients on the power lines.
Also I discovered that snubber circuit tend to leak a very minimal amount ofcurrent which will not turn the load on but could give a nasty shock. But still itsOK and sort of necessary to use them in inductive circuits, along with SafetyFuse and safety warning mentioned appropriately.
good to hear that. Thanks forthe feedback. I alwaysappreciate hearing if peoplegot their problems solved :)The TIC206 is kinda myTRIAC of preference and Ihaven't had any problems withit.I guess you found out aboutthe charge in the snubbercircuit the hard way? :)We have all been there, but itunderlines again the care oneshould take working with highvoltages. One would not reallyexpect to have a capacitorcharge on AC :) . Probablyhas something to do withphase shifting or whatever, Iam no AC crack
Thank you for this nice tutorial. I used BTA16600C and it worked but for a fewminutes. I tried putting heat sink but problem return after few minutes. Do you getsame problem ? Do you have some tips for me ? Please :)
diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) (author) x0900
Usually problems like this are afaulty soldering connection, afaulty optocoupler or a faultytriac.Are you using it with amicrocontroller?Please do the following:Unplug everythingcheck yr connectionsDont use yr microcontroller butput a 5 Volt tension on theentrance and connect to themains again.Let me know what happens
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/)
Thanks for this easy to implement tutorial. I have implemented the same stuffusing MOC3041 and BT136 TRIAC. I am using 470 and 330 ohms resistanceand the things work pretty well.
However I am facing a strange issue with the snubber circuit, which I hadincorporated to get rid of the transients in the line. The transients autotriggersmy TRIAC for a moment which I want to remove. Removing the snubbermakes my circuit work well. With the snubber my switch is always ON.
I removed the MOC3041 from the circuit and no input signals as well but still itis ON always when snubber is present in parallel to TRIAC. Seems like itprovides a parallel path to the external load turning it ON.
Abishek, thanks for yr kindwords. It is indeed odd, butwhat I do expect is that the100nF might be a bit too bigfor yr setting and the BT136may see it as a capacitiveload (though it isnt strictly aload). As a result the currentand the voltage might be a bitout of sync, so that at zerocrossing there is still a voltage(from the 100nf) that keepsthe TRIAC open.There are a couple ofsolutions to tru: some peopleuse a distinctly differentvalueset for their snubber: say33 Ohm and 10nF and youcold try that.100 ohm (even 120 ohm) and100nF are however tried andtested.The dV/dt is probably too slowfor yr BT136.What I suggest is that you trythe 33Ohm/10nF combo andsee if that solves your
problem.You say you need thesnubber network to get rid oftransients that trigger yourTRIAC.Is it the Triac that gets autotriggered, or might it be yourmoc that is triggering becauseof the transients?What load are you switching?is it an inductive load?Although I never hadproblems, the datasheet of theMOC30xx suggest asomewhat more complicatedsnubber to get rid of transientsin an inductive load:
The BT136 is a 'sensitive'Triac.I would suggest though thatyou first try the 33 ohm (or 39ohm) and 10nF
diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) (author) diy_bloke
let me just add that snubbercircuits are largely empiricaland depend largely on the loadyou are switching. Sure, thereis sort of a general range ofwhat seems to work, but thefact that some people swearby 33/10 and others by100/100 or 120/100 alreadyshow there isn't a one rightsolution
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) diy_bloke
Issue 1: Snubber Leakage
Exp: My snubber circuit isleaking voltage/current andkeeping my
devices turned ON with veryless intensity.
To avoid any possiblity ofleakage via 3041 (optocoupler) I had
removed it from my circuitentirely. No more IC ispresent.
Even now I can see thatleakage happening. Initiallythis leakage
was high and as per yoursuggestion reducing thecapacitor value
helped and now its pretty lowbut is still there.
Issue 2: Changingresistance shows no furtherimpact on the
Exp: My circuit activates for afraction of a second when Iturn on
another heavy load on thesame line like an AC cielingfan.
My Background:
I am working as a MobileSoftware Engineer (Androidetc.) for last 9 years. Do nothave indepth knowledge ofelectronics. But can corelatethings based on basic idea,R&D and certainly a bit ofcommon sense. Need to getinto more tech depth soon butmay be not right away.
What am I trying to achieve:
I am trying to make suchdigitally controlled switchesand my range of appliancesthat should work includeshousehold components likeCFL, TubeLights, Cieling andPedestal Fans, TV etc.
I do not have to control somereally heavy gadgets. I feelthat to increase the circuitendurance I might have to endup making different model ofswitches which I will do later.For now only CFL, MobileCharger, Cieling Fans and TVcontrol switches shouldsuffice.
Thanks for your exposé. Youhave not chosen the easiestgadgets to switch as a mobilecharger and a ceiling fan areinductive loads and a TV ismost likely an inductive load.CFL's also carry their ownproblems and they may havea high starting current.For one thing, I wonder, haveyou experienced theseproblems too if you wereswitching a say 60100 wattincandescent lightbulb?Secondly, I wonder if yrpurpose wouldnt be betterserved with a relay.Thirdly, as long as you areswitching low currents (like afan or a charger) you couldconsider a cheap SSR (Ipublished a circuit of that one
But as it is your problemmight be related to theMOC3041/BT136combination.Try the following:1 remove the 330 Ohmresistor and increase the 470to 560 or 1k and see whatthat does
2 if that doesnt do it, build thesnubber like you see here:
http://images.elektroda.net/0_1257514629.jpg
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) diy_bloke
Thanks once again for yourprompt reply.
I think you are correct butsince I am working on aTouch Screen Based homeautomation system I reallycannot limit to 12equipments and hence my listunfortunately contains all ofthose inductive elements :(.
To answer you, I DO NOT getany false trigger withfluorescent tube light or asimple light bulb operation. Itoccurs only when I switch aceiling fan and that too I turnit ON/OFF deliberatelyseveral times, just to test.
Secondly, I cannot survivewith mechanical relays as Icannot keep them turned ONfor long time which would bethe scenario if someone turnsOn and electrical equipment.It will reduce the life time ofthe coil.
I can switch to SSR but tIhave read that they tend tofail in Closed State which isnot so safe.
The other snubber circuit isswitching the neutral and notthe load. Will try this if I fail tomake the one I am currentlytrying.
Also I do want to know theexact reason for this so that itdoes not become a blockerfor me and can move to thenext level of learning.
I am gonna try with evensmaller capacitor and see ifthat helps.
Will post the results in awhile. Also one more thoughtthat other folks are also usingthe same datasheet circuitwith no issues, why is ithappening with me then :(.
The fact that the othersnubber circuit is switchingthe neitral and not the laoddoesnt really seem thatrelevant I think. Should give ita try.What also sometimes helps Ihave been told is to swith M1and M2.As I understand the MOCseries can als sometimes givefalse triggering and that'other' circuit should preventthat.The cause of yr problemswhere others are succesfulcould very well be productvariation. Also, if you happento have a Tic206 layingaround, give that one a try
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) diy_bloke
The market is pretty far fromhere so will try to get TIC206in a day or two. Also there isno MOC present at all eventhen the same behavior. Itmeans it has nothing to dowith the MOC.
Next when no MOC is presentthere is no connection of thegate terminal to anything sono possibility of false gatetrigerring.
Also smaller cap makes adifference.
One more thing I want to knowis that I am testing using a 3pin socket or extension.
In the 3 pin female socket I amplugging in a very small nightlight indicator and that flickersand glows lightly. Do I have totest using some heavier loador something ?
Well for now I am clueless andtotally lost. Will try it fromscratch and will try the TIC206option as well. Thanks for allyour help.
Thanks for the suggestion. Iam at work. Will go home andtry with a 100 W bulb. I foundanother guy facing similarissue. Find below the link to hisquestion:
Looking at this I am at leastconvinced that my circuit isalmost correct and there existsno universal snubber. I also gota direction that if I end upmaking a homeautomationproject, I am going to createdifferent switches for differenttypes and capacities of loads. Ithink that will fit my businessusecase.
Thanks for all your help andinput. If you have time pleasehave a look at it and let meknow how can I decide fordifferent kinds of loads.
Regards,
Abhishek
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) egrabhishek
Hi,
I am able to make it work withBTA16600B. I could not getthe snubber less version so Imight end up adding extrasnubber for inductive loads.But for smaller resistive loads Iam good to go. No more falsetrigerring. Thanks to higherdv/dt values of the IC.
I tested my circuit for 45continuously with a pedestalfan and it worked without anyissues like heating and all.. Fornow .. things are fine ..
Thanks.
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) diy_bloke
Thanks for your inputs buddyand it actually made adifference. I tried with 10nFcap with various resistances.It solved my problem by 80%.It solved the issue of falsetrigerring to an extent. It stillhappens but frequency ismuch less now. But still thereis a strange behavior. Mycircuit leaks some voltage viathe snubber and my bulbglows with the minimumpossible intensity. I triedconnecting a wireextender.
The red indicator Led in thatglows with very low intensity.However, when I switch it ONvia MOC3041 things workwell.
Ok now I am gonna break myissues into more comments tomake you understand it better.
rmatkar (/member/rmatkar/)
Thanks for the post. So I have implemented a similar circuit with 470ohmresistor and BT136 triad The resistors that i have used are of 1 watt. Correctme if I am wrong but, the wattage of the resistor does not matter where the470 ohm resistor is placed! and how much current can this circuit handle as in...can I use this circuit to control may be an AC or a refrigerator?
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) rmatkar
Hi,
I am seriously in need of somehelp. I have made the samecircuit with BT136 and i amfacing the problem of falsetrigering. Did you facedsomething similar ? I am using470 ohms and 330 ohmsresistors as suggested in thepost.
Any help would be highlyappreciated.
Regards,
Abhishek.
rmatkar (/member/rmatkar/) egrabhishek
Hi Abhishek,
I would suggest changing theBT136 to a snubberless BTlike BTA16. I did not face anyissues worked fine. How are ufiring the triac. just doublecheck the output pins. I am notfrom a electrical backgroundso cant help you much.
Thanks
Rituparna
egrabhishek (/member/egrabhishek/) rmatkar
Hi,
Thanks for the quickresponse. I also found thatsnubber circuits have a smallleakage current 7.5 mA for0.1 uF and 100 ohmresistance.
I also came across somesnubberless TRIACS BTA16600. I am gonna give a try tothat as well.
Sorry I am not trying todiscourage you or find fault inyour circuit but the issue mustbe there in your circuit aswell. If you want you can tryby activating your circuit.Keep the test load (say apedestal fan) OFF and now ifyou have a ceiling fan then tryturning it ON very slowly.Make the manual switchproduce spark noise. Andnow you can see amomentary movement of thefan.
I am firing it using MOC3041and it works perfectly. Thisissue is just a side issuewhere I am seeing a spikeupsetting my switch for amoment.
Unfortunately I am also notfrom electronics backgroundrather from softwarebackground and trying tomake a home automationsystem. I have achieved mostof the things and am juststuck at this point.
I am not sure if there aresome rules about the forum,but it would be great if I couldget the privilege to call youonce or if you can do that. Iam sharing my number here :8884404704 (Bangalore).
For more info on what I amtrying to do you can refer tomy original query above.
Regards,
Abhishek.
diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) (author) rmatkar
Tnx rmatkar. The wattage of the470 ohm resistor ofcourse isimportant, but it doesn't need tobe so high. :) Unless you wantto cater for worst casescenario's 1/4 w or 1/2 w is ok.the BT136 can handle 4ampere so as long as thecurrent consumption of your acor refrigerator stays within thatit shld be ok. can advise thoughto add a heatsink to yr bt136and to add the snubber networkas I indicated
diy_bloke (/member/diy_bloke/) (author) rmatkar
Tnx rmatkar. The wattage of the470 ohm resistor ofcourse isimportant, but it doesn't need tobe so high. :) Unless you wantto cater for worst casescenario's 1/4 w or 1/2 w is ok.
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the BT136 can handle 4ampere so as long as thecurrent consumption of your acor refrigerator stays within that itshld be ok. can advise thoughto add a heatsink to yr bt136and to add the snubber networkas I indicated
Hi Samuel. Nothing wrongwith yr english.It isn't specifically 1 pin thatgives the zero crossing signal:the MOC3041's output isbetween pin 4 and 6. Itdoesn't give a zerocrossingsignal, it connects betweenpin 4 and 6 if it gets an inputsignal on pin 1 and 2, but itmakes that connection atzerocrossing. The MOC3041therefore has a zero crossingdetector, but doesnt give azerocrossing signal
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