Some Terms Used in garments making

8/13/2019 Some Terms Used in garments making

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100's Two-Ply Broadcloth (fine)A premium shirting fabric made with two-ply threads (two individual threads are twistedtogether) which make it durable, soft, and lustrous.

140's Broadcloth (very fine)A very luxurious yarn, the higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it asuperior hand and remarkable luster.

200's Two-Ply Broadcloth (extremely fine)Woven from some of the finest cottons in the world, our 200's Two-Ply Cotton offers anextremely silky touch and incredibly fine patterns.

" Top Stitch A more traditional tailoring feature, stitching on the collar and cuff is " from the edge versuedge-stitching which is flush with the edge.

5-Pocket Modeling most commonly associated with denim jeans, five-pockets style puts a more casualspin on your trouser with 2 front pockets, a front coin pocket and patch rear pockets.

7 fold The ultimate in neckwear craft. Silk fabric is folded seven times for a more robust tie. Thethickness and absence of lining makes for a well balanced tie that drapes and knots perfectly.

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Argyle An intarsia knit characterized by colored diamond shapes. Argyle designs are common insweaters and socks.

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Bamboo A natural, renewable resource that is, much like cotton, machine washable, strong andhypoallergenic, making it the perfect fabric for extra sensitive skin. Bamboo fabric is luxuriouslsoft, similar to the softness and look of silk. It is extremely breathable and comfortable againsskin. Bamboo absorbs and wicks moisture away from the skin, keeping you cooler and drier

than synthetics or cotton. The natural antifungal agent "bamboo kun" deters bacteria and pestfrom the bamboo, making the use of pesticides or herbicides unnecessary. .

Band CollarA collar that stands up straight and encircles the neck, without any turndown collar points.Paul Fredrick banded collars have a 1" stand.


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Basketweave

A variation of a plain weave in which two or more warp (horizontal)yarns and one or more weft (vertical) yarns are interlaced as one.

These yarns are placed into the woven construction flat and continueto run parallel to one another throughout. Resembles a miniaturebraided basket.

Bengal StripeA wider color stripe that alternates with a narrower white stripe.

Besom PocketA set-in pocket cut into the garment with access through a welted slit-type opening. Found o

shirts and trousers.

Bias The bias direction of the fabric is diagonally across the grain. While a true bias is cut at a 45degree angle to the fabric's warp (horizontal) and weft (vertical) threads, a bias cut is anydirection in the fabric which does not exactly flow in the direction of the length or width of afabric. A bias cut also provides for greater stretch, or give in the fabric.

Biotech A natural process finishes the pure wool fabric without chemical components. Environmentallfriendly, high-performance. Found in the Paul Fredrick Luxury Italian Blazer, making for aremarkably soft and durable garment.

Bird's EyeA weave that is comprised of small repetitive diamond shapes resembling a bird's eye. Usuallfound on blazers, trousers and socks. This classic fabric also lends subtle texture to fine dressshirts and suitings.

Blazer A type of jacket. Although it resembles a suit jacket it is a more casual coat, often with metal


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buttons.

Boxer Shorts A man'sundergarment often made in cotton or silk, based on the garment worn in the sport oboxing.

Brass A metal alloy of copper and zinc.

Broadcloth A dense, tightly woven fabric. It is lustrous and soft with a good texture and a smooth finish.Broadcloth tends to wear very well and is machine washable.

Business Casual CollectionA Paul Fredrick Collection. Easy, refined garments that are traditionally considered more

appropriate in a casual business setting.

Buttondown CollarA collar that is secured to the shirt by small buttons on both points for both a stylish andpractical look. The buttondown collar was introduced in England during the 1800s to help poloplayers keep their collars in place while playing. The buttondown collar is hence considered amore sporty look. Click here for a visual comparison of our Dress Shirt collars.

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Cable KnitA knitting pattern in which cables appear to twist around one another.

Calfskin A smooth-surfaced, fine-grained, durable leather from the hide of a calf. It does not scuffeasily, stretches only moderately, and cleans well.

Camelhair A soft and luxurious fabric made with hair sheared from a Bactrian camel. Camelhair is mostoften used in the construction of suits and jackets. Similar to wool, it provides excellentwarmth, but is lighter in weight.

Camp ShirtA button-front shirt with a collar and no neckband. The shirt produces a casual look with itsstraight hem, boxy cut, and vented sides for wear in or out.

Cap A form of headwear. The crown of a cap fits closer than that of a hat, and they do not have a


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brim, although a visor is usually present. Caps are typically designed for warmth and, whenincluding a visor, blocking the sun from the eyes.

Cap Toe A separate piece of material covering the toe section of a shoe for reinforcement and/ordecoration; usually used on oxford-style shoes.

Car CoatA length coat that is historically known as comfortable option for driving since the 1950s.

Cardigan A collarless sweater that buttons or zips down the front. Originally used as an extra layer forwarmth under military uniforms. A classic piece for any wardrobe.

Cashmere An extremely soft and lightweight luxury fiber combed from the undercoat of the long-hairedKashmir goat. Cashmere has a soft and silky finish and is most commonly woven or knit toproduce sweaters, suits, coats, and other winter accessories.

Chalk StripeEvenly spaced, soft, thin white or light stripes woven into dark fabric. A classic yet elegantlook.

Chevron A pattern characterized by inverted V's. In the 1820s Chevron patterns characterized ArtNouveau design.

Chino A type of cotton twill that can be finished with a smooth or mercerized brushed surface.Originially used as summer uniforms for the U.S. Army because their durability. Washes andwears extremely well.

Club Collar Part of Eton Colleges dress code in the 1800s, the rounded edges of the collar look best onthin faces. The softness of the points softening sharp vertical lines.

Collar Click here for a visual comparison of our Dress Shirt collars.

Collar BarA pin or a clip that secures the two ends of a dress shirt collar together and lies underneaththe knot of a necktie.

Collar Stay


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A small tab that is inserted inside of the collar, running down to the collar points. Allows for aoverall better shape, fit and roll of a collar.

Comfort WaistbandA waistband characterized by an elastic quality that offers more give and comfort.

Continuous Collar/CuffA fashionable shirt style in which the fabric for the collar and cuff is cut on the cross (vertical)allowing for the shirt pattern to flow in a continuous direction from the body to collar and cuff.

Contrasting CollarA shirt collar that is a different color or pattern than the rest of the shirt.

Corduroy A fabric composed of twisted fibers that lie in distinctive vertical or horizontal rows. Each row,

known as a wale, can vary in width. Corduroy wears well, has a soft luster, and is typically usefor pants, sport coats, and shirts.

Cotton Gathered from the seed pods of the cotton plant, the fiber is most often spun into yarn orthread and used to make a soft, breathable textile. The most widely used natural-fiber cloth inclothing today, cotton fibers have a high degree of strength, durability, and absorbency. Thereare several grades of cotton; Egyptian cotton is considered to be the finest, with Sea Island asits domestic counterpart. Although less expensive, Pima cotton is also of high quality due to itsextra-long staple fibers.

Covered Placket A button or zipper closure that is hidden under a fold of cloth. Also called a "Fly Front." Seealso " Placket "

Crystal A clear, colorless glass of superior quality.

Cuff Paul Fredrick Dress Shirts have 5 different types of cuff or sleeve combinations:

Single Button Cuff Double Button Cuff Mitered Cuff French Cuff Short Sleeves


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The fabric on the left front panel is folded over to create the placket allowing stability anddurability without the use of interlining. Also called "French Fly Front". See also " Placket "

Double Reverse Pleats Trousers with pleats open to the pockets. The first pleat is a 1" depth and second pleat is a depth.

D-Ring An adjustable ring on waistband allowing for a better fit without the need for a belt.

Driving Moccasin This shoe is characterized by a rubber outsole that extends over the heel, usually in the formof rubber nubs, thereby allowing the wearer to easily rest on a surface, such as while driving(hence the name), without ruining or scuffing the leather on the heel of the shoe.

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Edge Topstitch There are two types of stitching for collars:

Edge Topstitch

" Topstitch.

Embedded Collar StayIn addition to the removable collar stay, this is an added small piece of collar stay that is sewinto the point seam of the collar to give more stability to the collar point. This added piece willprevent the collar points from curling under after several washings. The embedded collar stay iused in the following collars with quarter inch topstitch: Traditional Straight Collar, WindsorSpread Collar, Park Avenue Spread Collar and Double Button Band Spread Collar


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Embossed Raised or relief patterns on the surface of the fabrics produced by using pressure inconjunction with engraved rollers and heat applications.

Enamel Protective and decorative. An opaque, glass-like composite fused to metal, glass or pottery.Used on select Paul Fredrick cufflinks.

End-on-End A shirting fabric where a colored yarn is woven in one direction and white yarn is woven in thother to produce a textured effect

English Spread Collar A wider spread than the Windsor Spread Collar with longer points.

English Tab CollarThe tab collar holds the tie perfectly in place using a snap or button that brings the collarpoints closer together, creating an always neat appearance. Click here for a visual comparisonof Dress Shirt collars.

Epaulet (Epaulette) French for "little shoulder", epaulettes are bands of fabric, often attached with a button, thatadorn the shoulders of a jacket or coat. They were originally used as insignia or rank by themilitary and other organizations.

Essentials Collection A Paul Fredrick Collection. A collection of business wardrobe classics every well-dressed manshould have in his closet.

European Straight Collar An edge stitched straight collar for a slightly more modern look. Click here for a visualcomparison of Dress Shirt collars.

Eyelet Collar Reminiscent of the Gatsby years, the eyelet collar allows for the use of a collar pin to hold thepoints in place.

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Fabric CareClick here for detailed fabric care instructions.


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in which the complete unit is shaped and knit on the machine as it is formed. A fully fashionedknit is characterized by fashion marks around the armhole (shoulder) and neckline. The portioof a garment are shaped by increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width of thefabric, such a narrowing and widening produces the shape of the garment. This results in anoverall better fit.

Fully Lined See " Lining "

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Gabardine A tightly woven combed yarn characterized by vertical twill lines created by using morethreads in the warp (horizontal) than weft (vertical.)

Gauge A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knittingmachine in a 1"-1.5" area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, thehigher the gauge, the finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit.Commonly used gauges range from 9GG-16GG.

Gingham A plain woven fabric typically of a checked pattern in white andanother color. Usually made of cotton, gingham is associated withcheck, plaid or stripe patterns.

Glen Plaid A fabric featuring a design of small and large woven checks.

Gold Plated A thin coating of gold over an alloy metal.

Grosgrain


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A type of fabric characterized by its ribbed appearance. It is most often used to refer to ribbo

GuabelloDistinguished Italian Mill. The finest materials, refined finishing techniques, LanificioGaubello's over 150 years of experience give their fabric a unique and exceptional quality.Singular comfort. Remarkable softness. Quite possibly the finest wool in the world.

Guage A unit of measure abbreviated as GG. Expressed by the number of needles of a knittingmachine in a 1"-1. " area in the production of a knit garment or fabric. As a general rule, thehigher the gauge, the finer the fabric, whereas the lower the gauge, the bulkier the knit.Commonly used gauges range from 9GG-16GG.

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Half Canvas Construction The inner canvas layer of the suit that gives it shape, structure, and strength. While you can'see it, this all important part not only shapes the suit from the start, but also has a memory foyour shape, giving you a better fit. This feature really does separate one suit from another.

Half-Lining A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not lined and theseams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets with lightweight fabric,so the lining doesn't add weight to the jacket.

Half-Rimmed

Eyeglasses rimmed only on the top or only on the bottom of the lens. Hand The hand describes the overall qualities of a fabric. Such qualities as softness, silkiness, etcare revealed through the sense of touch.

Handcrafted A work produced by hand labor. A selection of our cufflinks are skillfully handcrafted in a smalmill in Florence, Italy. The mill is home to some of the most creative designers and skilledcufflink craftsman who take tremendous pride in creating the best quality cufflinks in Italy. EacSwarovski stone is carefully hand placed while the enameling, also done by hand, is placed witabsolute precision. From creating the first mold of solid brass to the beautifully polished finish,these Italian individually handcrafted elegant cufflinks are perfect for the guy looking for truequality at an affordable price. All of our shoes come directly from small mills in Italy, whereskilled craftsmen oversee the construction of our shoes in every step of the finishing processthrough the final polish. We work with these mills to design the most exquisite and uniqueshoes possible, offering our customer nothing but the best quality and value.


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Handmade Made by hand or hand process. Seven fold ties set themselves apart from a standard tie withtheir superior construction. Roughly a square yard of silk (usually two or more pieces sewntogether) is folded to create seven sections of silk between the folds. The weight and body ofthis tie are derived from the layering of silk and typically requires an hour or more to construcEvery section is hand stitched with exquisite detail and constructed entirely out of the same silfabric front to back. Seven fold ties are untipped or unlined, as they are made completely outluxurious silk. These handmade ties were once a traditional craft that is now nearly all butforgotten in an effort for most tie makers to cut costs. All of our other handmade ties are cut bhand from generous amounts of silk. The generous pieces of silk allow all three parts of the tieto be cut fully on the bias (or diagonal) and also ensures that there is sufficient silk to createdeep fold at the back of the tie, which gives the tie a more luxurious feel. After cutting the thrsilk tie parts, the blade, neck and tail are joined together and tipping is then sewn into theblade and the tail of the tie. The Paul Fredrick label is then hand-stitched on the back as thefinishing touch.

Heather YarnsA yarn consisting of differently colored fibers that are blended together to give a soft, mutedlook. Heathered yarns got their name because of the purple color they portrayed when used inearly tweeds which resembled heather-covered moors.

Herringbone A variation on a twill weave fabric, in which the twill is reversed, or brokenat regular intervals, producing a distinctive V pattern resembling theskeleton of a herring fish.

Hidden Buttondown CollarSimilar in appearance to the straight collar, buttons hidden underneath the points hold thecollar in place.

High Twist Fabric with the sense of cool touch and superb surface by using high twist yarn;

good drape, excellent elasticity.Unparalleled drape and wrinkle resistance. Houndstooth A fabric with distinctive broken checks that resembles the jagged backteeth of a hound. This staple pattern, once popular with huntingclothing, is often found in shirts, sportcoats, suits and trousers.


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Imperial 100's cotton broadclothA premium shirting fabric made with two-ply threads (two individual threads are twistedtogether) which make it durable, soft, and lustrous.

Inside Pockets Paul Fredrick sportcoats and suit jackets are constructed with four inside pockets: two breastpockets, one on each side, with a security flap on wearer's right side pocket, one pen and onecell phone pocket on left inside.

Intarsia A design created by knitting colored yarns on both sides of a fabric. Intarsia designs areusually isolated forms, not repeat patterns.

Interlock Knitted with closely interlocking stitches, this fabric maintains an exceptionally smooth hand,good drape and provides a little extra stretch for increased comfort.

Ivy Cap See " Cap "

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Jacquard A fabric with a design woven into it. The word jacquard comes from the nineteenth-centuryFrench inventor of the special loom this elaborate fabric is woven on, Joseph Marie Jacquard.The jacquard attachment allows for any pattern, no matter how large, small or intricate to bewoven in a fabric.

Jersey Jersey was first made on the Island on Jersey off the English coast and used for fisherman'sclothing. Today it is commonly found in t-shirts and is very resilient with fine draping qualitiesand crease-resistance. Jersey wears and washes well.

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Keyhole Buttonhole Found on all Paul Fredrick jackets and sportcoats. Characterized by a round hole at the end othe slit to accommodate all types of buttons without distorting the fabric.

Knit


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A process of making a fabric or garment with hand- or machine-made interlocking loopedstitches, first used for making stockings. Although knitting was not a common use for makingclothing until the 19th Century, they are now a comfortable, easy wardrobe staple.

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Lambswool A soft, smooth, resilient wool yarn from the first shearing of a sheep younger than eightmonths old. Fine grade wool.

Lapel The turned-back front section of a jacket or coat that connects to the collar and forms a "V"where the jacket or coat closes. See also Notch Lapel and Peak Lapel

Leather A material created through the tanning of the skin or hide of an animal. There are manydifferent finishes which can be used including sueding, glazing, embossing, etc.

Linen A natrual fiber produced from the stem of the flax plant. Stronger, stiffer, and more lustrousthan cotton, it yields cool absorbent fabrics that wrinkle easily. An easy and ideal summertimefabric with its breathable qualities.

Lining Jackets can be fully lined or half lined. A fully lined jacket is lined on the entire inside so noseams show. A half lined jacket is lined on the top half and sleeve, but the bottom half is not

lined and the seams are taped for a clean finish. Half lined is usually done on jackets withlightweight fabric, so the lining doesn't add weight to the jacket.

Loafer Loafers are low, step-in shoes with no shoelaces or buckles, often made of leather or suede.The loafer is a classic style with a broad flat heel. Variations would include the penny loafer antassel loafer.

Long Staple CottonCotton whose fibers are over 1 1/8 inches long. Longer staples cottons create increaseddurability and hand (how pleasing the fabric feels) of the garment because they can be spuninto finer threads than shorter lengths of cotton.

Luxury 140's Cotton Broadcloth A very luxurious yarn, the higher thread count and resulting closeness of weave gives it asuperior hand and remarkable luster.

Luxury 200's Cotton Broadcloth


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Woven from some of the finest cottons in the world, our Luxury 200's Two-Ply Cotton offers aextremely silky touch and incredibly fine patterns.

Lycra A trademark DuPont fiber that has incredible flexibility and recovery. Lycra is a brand-namespandex that is usually woven with other fibers to provide ease of movement in fabrics.

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Madder Refers to a natural dye used since ancient times, although it has since been translated intosynthetic dye. Most commonly used on silk, it creates beautiful deep, muted, soft colorationsusually paired with paisley and small geometric patterns in neckties.

Madras A bold plaid plain-weave fabric. This lightweight fabric was originally hand woven in Madras,India from cotton yarns dyed with native vegetable colorings.

Medalian A piece of carved or engraved metal that is usually circular in shape. Can also represent amedallion print on fabric.

MelangeRefers to two different color threads twisted together, creating a heather effect.

Mercerized Cotton

A special kind of cotton yarn that is more lustrous than conventional cotton. It is also strongetakes dye easily, makes the yarn more resistant to mildew and reduces lint. Mercerized yarnstays shiny through washing and gives a nice, somewhat fancier look to finished items.Mercerization is named for John Mercer, who developed the process and received a patent forhis work in 1851. Mercer found that adding caustic soda or sulfuric acid to cotton made the fibswell and straighten. However, in 1890 Horace Lowe developed a process by which caustic sodwas added to the yarn under high tension, which added the luster that mercerized cotton isfamous for today.

Merino WoolA better-quality wool yarn made from the fleece of merino sheep. Merino sheep are said tohave the finest and softest wool of any sheep.

Microfiber Continuous filament fibers that can be spun to be thinner than a silk thread and thereforeallows manmade fibers to have an array of aesthetic and performance qualities. Microfiber isused to make non-woven, woven and knitted fabrics. The combinations of synthetic fibers canadd specific characteristics, such as softness, durability, absorption, wicking abilities and wate


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repellency.

Mock NeckA knit pullover finished at the neckline with a short, fitted knit band that does not fold over. Aabbreviated version of the turtleneck.

Modal Fiber made by spinning reconstituted cellulose from beech trees. Textiles made from Modalhave soft, smooth surfaces are water-absorbent and resistant to shrinkage and fading.

Moleskin A heavy cotton fabric, woven and then sheared to create a short soft pile on one side. Well-known for its buttery-soft, almost suede-like hand, moleskin cotton is also long-wearing andsubstantial.

Monk Strap A casual or dress shoe with a single or double strap closure, usually with an adjustable buckl

Mother-of-Pearl The lining of an oyster or type of mullusk which is iridescent and lustrous. This high quality,luxurious material is often used in cufflinks.

MP3 Pocket Found on certain sportcoats, the convenient interior MP3 pocket has a safety closure and earbud

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Nano Technology Provides liquid and stain repellency, shape retention and resistance to creasing.

Nested Suit A suit in which jacket and trousers are sold together. The nested suit also sometimes includesa vest. Compare to Suit Separates in which jacket and trousers are sold separately.

Newsboy Cap See " Cap "

Non-Iron CottonEnjoy the comfort of cotton without the wrinkles for a clean, crisp presentation. Garmentswhich are 'non-iron' have seams which are taped to prevent puckering. The completed garmenis [then] treated with an ammonia process, pressed and baked to make the entire garmentwrinkle free. Paul Fredrick dress shirts are machine washable and should not be dry cleaned.


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Notch Lapel A collar that has a triangular notch where the lapel meets the collar. This is traditional onsingle-breasted suits, and is used on most Paul Fredrick suit jackets, blazers, and sportcoats.

Nylon A synthetic fiber that is silky, strong and higly resilient. Nylon was originally introduced in the1940s by DuPont for women's stockings. However, it is widely used today and is often combinwith other fibers to increase durability. Nylon has definitely paved the way for easy-caregarments.

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Oltolina Oltolina produces fabrics for high quality shirts for international markets. It has a modernmachinery and 150 skilled workers subdivided between the production in Asso and the finishinin Busto Arsizio. The classical and fancy fabrics of cotton are woven using the most precioustwisted yarns in the world.

Ombre Plaid A plaid in which the colors transition by way of fading.

Ottoman Long staple plain weave with a horizontal cord or ribbed effect.

Oxford A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two fine yarns paired together and one heaviersoftly-spun weft (vertical) yarn, which gives the fabric a subtle basket-weave look and alustrous finish. Well known for men's shirts, it is also used for summer jackets and sportswear.Originated by a Scottish mill, oxford was one of their four shirting fabrics named after famousuniversities, along with Harvard, Yale and Cambridge.


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Paisley

A swirled tear-drop shape pattern commonly found in neckties. Panama A Panama hat is a traditional brimmed hat that is made from the plaited leaves of the panamhat palm (Carludovica palmata). Despite the name, genuine Panama hats are made in Ecuadonot Panama.

Park Avenue Spread Collar The middle ground between a Traditional straight and Windsor spread collar, the Park Avenueis a bit more spread than the straight and less than the Windsor.

Parquet A diagonal twill dobby woven in a pattern of squares resembling aparquet floor.Also See Dobby

Patch PocketA flat, outside pocket stitched onto a garment with a straight hem opening. Paul Fredrick offefour types of patch pockets: Triangle Round, Straight Round, Mitered Pocket, and Button-

Throught Pocket.

Patchwork A fabric design consisting of squares, or patches, of varying pattern or color.

Peak Lapel A lapel in which a v-shaped seam is formed where the collar meets it. This is the most formaland is found on Paul Fradrick double-breasted jackets and some single-breasted styles.

Penny Loafer See " Loafer "


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Performance CollectionA Paul Fredrick Collection. Travel-friendly, easy care. Polished good looks withstand the rigortravel with style. Wrinkle-free and stain resistant garments are a staple of this collection.

Pick Stitching A large stitch that simulates a hand stitch. The pick stitch is done around the lapel and pockeof a jacket.

Pima CottonA high-quality, very strong, exrta-long staple cotton named after the Pima Native Americans,who first cultivated the plant in Arizona in the early 1900s. Pima cotton is considered one of thmost superior blends of cotton.

Pinpoint OxfordA finer yarn and tighter weave than oxford . A weave in which the warp (horizontal) has two

fine yarns paired together and one heavier softly-spun weft (vertical) yarn, which gives thefabric a subtle basket-weave look and a lustrous finish.

Pinstripe A pattern of very thin, crisp lines, usually in gray or white, evenly woven into fabric. Thepinstripe suit has become associated with conservative business attire, but is easily updated foa more refreshing look.

Piping A narrow fold of fabric in a seam to provide decorative embellishment. Usually seen in sportcoats, suit jackets, and blazers in a contrasting color.

Pique A durable woven or knit fabric that is characterized by an allover textured pattern of raisedparallel cords or fine ribbing. Generally cotton yarn, the most popular patterns are birdseye,diamond, waffle and honeycomb.

Placket A strip of fabric running along a closure, used to provide support for fasteners such as buttonsnaps, or a zipper. Almost always used to facilitate putting on or taking off of a garment, butare sometimes used as a design element as well. Paul Fredrick uses three different types of

plackets: Top Center , Double Press Turnback and Covered . Plaid A fabric with a pattern of bars and stripes that cross each other at right angles. Plaid fabricsmay be printed or woven and come in a variety of colors.

Plain Weave


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A basic weave, utilizing a simple alternate interlacing of length and crosswise yarns over andunder, alternately. Any type of yarn and fiber can be manufactured into a plain weave fabric.

Pleats A fold of fabric made by doubling material over on itself. Pleating provides more volume to agarment and is often used as a decoartive feature. Different types of pleats can be seen on PaFredrick trousers and shirts.

Trousers: Double reverse pleats and single reverse pleats on trousers open to the pockets. Box pleats are formed by two folded edges facing away fromeach other.

Shirts: Back pleats are on woven shirts to allow ease of movement. Paul Fredrick offers two types of back pleats: box pleat and side pleat. Box pleatsin the center back of the shirt and are used on all buttondown collar dress shirts, except trim fit. Side pleats are located on each side of the shirtback. They are used to allow greater ease of movement in the shoulders compared to a box pleat. All sport shirts, trim fit dress shirts and all othdress shirts, except the buttondown collar styles have side pleats.

Pockets Paul Fredrick offers 5 types of pockets: Triangle Round, Straight Round, Mitered, Button-Thruand Besom.

Triangle Round Pockets:

Triangle round pockets have a triangle hem at the top of the pocket with rounded edgesat the bottom. Only used on solid dress shirts.

Straight Round Pockets:

Straight round pockets have a straight hem at the top of the pocket with rounded edgesthe bottom. Used on patterned shirts.


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Mitered Pockets:

Mitered pockets have a straight hem at the top with mitered edges at the bottom. Allshirts with a mitered cuff have a mitered pocket.

Button-thru Pockets:

Button-thru pockets are rounded pockets with a functional button. Only used forsportshirts.

Besom Pockets:

Button-thru pockets are rounded pockets with a functional button. Only used forsportshirts.

Polyester A man-made fiber resistant to shrinkage and wrinkling. Polyester is often combined with othefibers such as wool and cotton as a way to provide low-maintenance dressing options.

Polynosic Known for luxurious softness and superior drape, polynosic is a type of natural microfiber.Considered finer quality than regular rayon yarns, it resists stretching to maintain shape overtime.


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Rise Distance from the crotch seam to the top of the waistband in pants.

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Sandwashed SilkA process by which the silk is treated to give it an even softer surface, almost suede-like infeel. This fabric is incredibly soft, has a matte surface and drapes beautifully.

Satin WeaveA basic weave, characterized by long floats of yarn on the face of the fabric. The yarns areinterlaced in such a manner that there is no definite, visible pattern of interlacing and, in thismanner, a smooth and somewhat shiny surface effect is achieved. The shiny surface effect isfurther increased through the use of high luster filament fibers in yarns which also have a lowamount of twist. A true satin weave fabric always has the warp yarns floating over filling yarns

Scalloped Facing A border that contains continuous curves. All Paul Fredrick jackets and sportcoats havescalloped interior facings, also known as French facing. Many jackets also have the added detaof contrast piping along the finished edge of the lining.

Seersucker A mid to lightweight fabric that has a characteristic permanent puckered striped effect createthrough releasing the tension on the loom during weaving.

Seven Fold See " 7-Fold "

Shadow StripeAn easy stripe pattern composed of elegant, tonal hues. Shadow stripes create an interestingpattern that easily pairs for dressy or casual occasions


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Sharkskin Smooth wool in a twill weave that has a characteristic alternating black-and-white pattern forgrayed effect. The surface is said to resemble a skin of a shark. Commonly found in suitings.

Shawl Collar A one-piece collar which is turned down to form a continuous line around the back of the necto the front.

Shirt Jacket Jacket designed in the style of a shirt with a button-front closure, shirt collar and often a two-button adjustable cuff.

Side Pleats See " Pleats "

Signature Collection A Paul Fredrick Collection. Exclusive. Distinctive yet timeless. Polished elegance with a moresingular attitude.

Silk A fiber produced by the silkworm Bombyx mori, also known as the mulberry silkworm, withwhich the worm weaves its cocoon. Silk is soft, has a brilliant sheen, and is very strong andabsorbent. A luxurious fabric, silk is lush to the touch.

Silk Shantung Medium weight, plain weave fabric made of raw silk. Known for its irregular surface created bslubbed yarns in the warp or filling direction. The slubs that appear randomly are part of thecharacter and rustic beauty of this precious cloth. See "Slub"

Soft Collar Edge-stitched for a more European attitude, the soft collar is best suited to sport shirts. It isshorter length than our typical straight collar with a softer interlining giving it a more casualpresentation.

Soft Coat Construction Softer findings used inside for construction that drapes rather than traditional firm constructi

which hugs the body. Counterintuitively, a less constructed sportcoat actually takes longer totailor. Exposed seams require precision inside and out.


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Silver Plated A thin coating of silver over an alloy metal.

Single Breasted

A jacket having one row of buttons on a narrow overlap. Paul Fredrick single-breasted jacketsand sportcoats are offered in two- or three-button s. These buttons are generally uncovered, ocan be covered on a fly front model.

Single Needle Tailoring Refers to a lockstitch which has two rows of single needle stitching locking the seam togetheras opposed to chain stitch.

Single Pleat See "Pleats"

Slub Yarns produced by uneven twisting of fibers. At even, or uneven intervals the yarn is reducedproducing a soft, bulky area inbetween.

Spectator These stylish, retro shoes are known for their two-tone color, similar to saddle shoes. Mostspectators are wingtips, however they can also have cap toe or even loafer stying. They are


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predominantly seen in black and white but other color combinations update this classic style.

Sportcoat Of the same cut as a suit jacket, a sportcoat is more casual and designed to be worn on itsown, not as part of a suit.

Split Toe Usually a lace-up shoe that has a seam coming down the center toe box that splits the shoe(or pieces of leather) in two.

Spun Silk Fibers shorter than the traditional filament silk are spun together creating a full bodied fabricwith exceptional luster and texture. Spun silks superior shape retention and a naturalresistance to pilling will keep you looking great all day.

Stain Resistant Treated so that moisture rolls off instantly, locked out

Sterling Silver An alloy of silver containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper. This givesthe soft silver extra strength.

Stretch Armhole A piece of stretch fabric that is sewn in the back of the jacket lining around the armhole. Thestretch fabric allows for better ease of movement.

Suede Suede is a type of finish which creates a napped surface on various types of materials such awool, cotton, leather, and various synthetic materials. The short, close nap provides a smooth,soft hand.

Super WoolsThe story of this thread is the numbering system used to describe the new breed of super-lightweight, high-twist wools. Pioneered by Italian mills, these fabrics are made using high-tecmachines that spin wool lighter and finer than it's ever been spun before. The various grades ocloth are referred to as Super 100s, Super 120s, Super 150s and so on, up to Super 200s. Ma

Super 100s and Super 120s the mainstay of your wardrobe. They are durable, resilient, andtoday's fabrics are superb. Treat the Super 150s and Super 180s as caviar, wonderful, but notto be worn every day, for these really are connoisseurs' suits.

Swarovski Crystal The luxury brand name for the range of precision-cut lead crystal glass and related productsproduced by Swarovski AG of Wattens, Austria.


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Tassel Loafer See "Loafer"

Tencel / Lyocell Tencel is the trademarked brand name for Lyocell, a cellulose fabric that is achieved througan organic solvent spinning process. Lyocell has good moisture absorption and static resistancIt is also very durable and provides as subtle luster.

Tessitura Monti Based in the north of Italy, Tessitura Monti is known for high quality 100% Egyptian cottonshirtings. In business for over 98 years, Monti is proud to be contiuing in their belief ofproviding superb quality of design and production.

Textured Solid A solid, one color fabric with a textured weave, creating a pattern.

Top Center Placket Also called a "Traditional Front," a top center placket uses a separate piece of fabric and afused lining to give it additional durabiliy. See also "Placket"

Top Stitch See " Top Stitch

Traditional Straight Collar

A universal collar; the most versatile, easy to wear style. Click here for a visual comparison oDress Shirt collars.

Tred Stripe Stripe resembling the tred marks of a tire.

Trilby A Trilby hat is a soft felt men's hat with a narrow, flexible brim and a deeply indented crown.Traditionally it was made from rabbit hair felt, but now it is sometimes made from othermaterials, such as tweed, or wool. They are similar to fedoras, but with a narrower brim. See"Fedora "

Trim Fit Also referred to as a slim cut, the body of the shirt is 5 narrower in the chest tapering to 6narrower at the waist. A perfect fit for those who do not need the full body cut of a regular fitdress shirt.


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Tropical Weight WoolA smooth wool fabric made from two-ply yarns in an open plain weave. Lightweight and airy,this fabric is great for summer wear.

Twill

Fabrics created by interlacing the warp and weft so that the fabric has a diagonal slant ortwill line. Twill fabrics have a front and a back side, unlike plain weave, where the twosides are the same. The face side of a twill fabric is the side with the most pronouncedwale and is usually more durable, more attractive, and used as the fashion side of thefabric.

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Unsolid Solid Solid, one color fabric in which a pattern is created by varying the weave.

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Varsity Spread CollarA shorter version of the Windsor Spread, updated with slightly curved lines. Click here fvisual comparison of Dress Shirt collars.

Variegated Stripe A stripe with streaks, marks or distinguished by a variety of different colors.

Velvet Fabric that has a pile, which is usually cut and brushed for a plush surface effect, offering arich texture.

Vent


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A vent is a slit in the bottom rear (tail) of the jacket. There are three vent options in a jacket:center vent, side vents or no vent.

Vermeil A durable and tarnish-resistant overlay of gold on sterling silver.

Virgin Wool Wool spun for the first time. Not recycled. See " Wool "

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Warp Lengthwise threads of a woven fabric.

Water ResistantA fabric finish that allows the garment to resist the penetration of water. This finish iscommonly found in Paul Fredrick performance garments.

Weft or FillThread that is woven across the warp at a right angle.

Windowpane A pattern of thin lines forming large squares on a background of a different color.Windowpane was a very popular pattern at the height of Savile Row style and is very commontoday for men's suits, trousers, and sport coats.

Windsor Spread CollarA conservative spread collar appropriate for any occassion. Click here for a visual comparisonof Dress Shirt collars.

Wing Tip A wing tip shoe has a decorative toe cap that is usually perforated and covers the toe of theshoe and extends backward along the sides of the shoe from a point at the center.

Wool A fiber obtained from the fleece of a sheep. It is a resilient and wrinkle resistant fabric. Woolcan hold up to 30% of its weight in moisture without feeling wet. A great fabric for keepingwarm in the cold winter months.

Worsted WoolA carded, combed, tightly twisted yarn that produces crisp, smooth woolens.

Wrinkle ResistantTreated to resist wrinkles. Although not non-iron , these treated fabrics will keep you looking


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polished all day long.

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Yarn A strand of textile fibers joined together, used for weaving or knitting into fabric.

Yoke The shaped section at the shoulders that connects all the other parts of the shirt. One-pieceyokes allow for greater ease of movement where split yokes provide a more tailored look. PaulFredrick one-piece yokes are 4", starting at the neckband and are found on all sportshirts andEuropean collection dress shirts. Paul fredrick split yokes are 2", starting at the neckband anhave a seam in the center of the yoke. All dress shirts, except the European collection have asplit yoke. Paul Fredrick also offers a mitered yoke on select dress shirts. Similar to a split yoka the side panels of a mitered yoke are cut on the bias (diagonal) creating a mitered effectalong the center back seam on of the yoke.

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Zegna Baruffa YarnsA wide range of yarns that appear clean and smooth, flowing and extremely light. ZegnaBaruffa is an Italian firm with a long tradition of high quality and excellence.

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Some Terms Used in garments making

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